[A] See at the end of the concluding chapter, the table of numbers and
sizes and the list of colours of the D.M.C threads and cottons.
[Illustration: CROCHET LACE.—CLOSE LEAVES AND BARS WITH PICOTS]
Crochet Work.
Crochet work, so called from the hook, French _croche_ or _croc_, with
which it is done, is not only one of the easiest but in comparison with
the cost and labour, one of the most effective kinds of fancy-work. It
is also one of the most useful, as it can be applied to the domestic
requirements of every-day life, to wearing apparel, house-linen and
upholstery; and we are sure that the patterns contained in this chapter,
which have in addition to their other merits that of novelty, will meet
with a favorable reception.
Hooks, or needles, as they are generally called, made of wood, bone or
tortoise-shell are used for all the heavier kinds of crochet work in
thick wool or cotton, and steel ones for the finer kinds. The Tunisian
crochet is done with a long straight hook, which is made all in one
piece. The points should be well polished inside and not too sharp, the
backs slightly curved, and the handles, whether of bone, steel or wood,
so light as not to tire the hand. Those represented here, we consider
the best, as regards shape. As it is most essential that the needle
should be suited to the cotton in size, we subjoin a comparative table
of the numbers of the D.M.C threads and cottons and of the different
needles.
[Illustration: FIG. 400. CROCHET NEEDLE WITH WOODEN HANDLE.]
[Illustration: FIG. 401. CROCHET NEEDLE WITH STEEL HANDLE.]
[Illustration: FIG. 402. ENGLISH CROCHET NEEDLE WITH WOODEN HANDLE.]
TABLE OF THE APPROXIMATE RELATION OF THE D.M.C THREADS AND COTTONS TO
THE NUMBERS OF THE CROCHET NEEDLES.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Numbers of the | | | | | | | | |
crochet needles | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 16 | 18 |
-------------------+--------+--------+-----+------+------+-----+-----+-------|
Numbers of the | | | | | | | | |
cottons | No. | No. | No. | No. | No. | No. | No. | No. |
-------------------+--------+--------+-----+------+------+-----+-----+-------+
Coton pour crochet | --- | 6 | 8-10| 12-14| 16-20|24-40| --- | --- |
Coton à tricoter | 6 | 8 |10-12| 14-16| 18-25|25-40| 50 | --- |
Fil à pointer | 10 | 15 |20-30| --- | --- | --- | --- | --- |
Cordonnet 6 fils | 1-1½ | 2-2½ | 3-4 | 10-15| 20-30|40-60|70-90|100-150|
Fil d’Alsace | --- | --- | --- | --- | 30 |36-50|60-90|100-150|
Fil à dentelle | --- | --- | --- | --- | 25 |30-50|60-90|100-150|
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
EXPLANATION OF THE SIGNS *.—In crochet, as in knitting, you
frequently have to repeat the same series of stitches. Such repetitions
will be indicated, by the signs *, **, ***, etc., as the case may be.
CROCHET STITCHES.—In point of fact, there is only one, because all
crochet work consists of loops made by means of the hook or needle, and
connected together by being drawn the one through the other.
Crochet work may however, be divided into two kinds, German crochet, and
Victoria or Tunisian crochet; the latter is known also under the name of
_tricot-crochet._
In German crochet there are eight different kinds of stitches: (1) chain
stitch, (2) single stitch, (3) plain stitch, (4) treble stitch, (5)
knot stitch, (6) bullion stitch, (7) cluster or scale stitch, (8) double
stitch.
The rows are worked, according to the kind of stitch, either to and fro,
or all from one end. In the former case, the work has to be turned at
the end of each row, and the subsequent row begun with 1, 2 or 3 chain
stitches to prevent the contraction of the outside edge.
When the rows are all worked one way, the thread must be fastened on
afresh each time, which is done by putting the needle into the first
chain stitch of the preceding row, drawing the thread through it so as
to form a loop, and making one or more chain stitches according to the
height required.
At the end of each row, cut the thread and draw the end through the last
loop; in this manner all crochet work is finished off. Some crochet
workers make a few extra chain stitches with the ends of the thread at
the beginning and end of each row, or fasten them off with a few
stitches on the wrong side.
They can also, when the occasion requires, be formed into a fringe or
tassels as a finish to the work.
POSITION OF THE HANDS AND EXPLANATION OF (1) CHAIN STITCH (fig.
403).—Take the thread in the left hand between the finger and thumb,
hold the needle between the thumb and first finger of the right hand,
letting it rest on the second finger, in the same manner in which you
hold your pen, and put it into the loop, which you hold between the
finger and thumb of the left hand. Take up the thread, lying on your
finger, with the needle and make your first stitch as you do in
knitting, tightening the loop just enough to leave an easy passage
through it for the needle. The end of the thread must be held by the
thumb and forefinger. The next stitches are made by taking up the thread
with the needle and drawing it through the loop. The throwing of the
thread round the needle by a jerk of the wrist is called an ‘over’.
[Illustration: FIG. 403. POSITION OF THE HANDS AND EXPLANATION OF CHAIN
STITCH.]
(2) SINGLE STITCH (fig. 404).—Put the needle in from the right side
of the work, into the uppermost loop of the preceding row, take up the
thread on the needle and draw it through both loops.
[Illustration: FIG. 404. SINGLE STITCH.]
(3) PLAIN STITCH (fig. 405).—Put the needle through, as in fig. 404,
from the right side to the wrong, under the upper side, either of a
chain, or of a stitch of the preceding row, draw the thread through it
in a loop, turn the thread round the needle and draw it through both
loops on the needle. By making the rows of plain stitches follow each
other in different ways, a great variety of stitches can be produced, as
the illustrations and written instructions here given will show.
[Illustration: FIG. 405. PLAIN STITCH.]
ROSE STITCH (fig. 406).—This consists of rows of plain stitches,
worked backwards and forwards. Insert the needle from the right side,
under both the horizontal loops of the preceding row.
[Illustration: FIG. 406. ROSE STITCH.]
RUSSIAN STITCH (fig. 407).—This is worked like the foregoing, only
that all the rows have to be begun from the same end, and the thread has
to be cut off at the end of each row.
[Illustration: FIG. 407. RUSSIAN STITCH.]
RIBBED STITCH (fig. 408).—Worked backwards and forwards, the hook
being passed through the back part only of the stitches of the preceding
row.
[Illustration: FIG. 408. RIBBED STITCH.]
CHAIN STITCH.—Worked like fig. 408, but on one side only.
PIQUÉ STITCH.—This stitch also is only worked on one side. Put the
needle in under one of the vertical threads of a stitch and complete the
plain stitch. This is a stitch that looks very well on the wrong side;
the bars of the loop lie quite close together, which makes it
particularly suitable for unlined articles of clothing. It requires a
large-sized needle to do this stitch well, especially if the material be
a heavy one.
SLANTING STITCH (fig. 409).—Worked entirely on the right side. Take
up the back thread of a stitch in the preceding row, take hold of the
crochet thread without turning it round the needle and draw it through
in a loop, and then finish the stitch like a plain stitch.
[Illustration: FIG. 409. SLANTING STITCH.]
CROSSED STITCH.—The name which is given to the preceding stitch when
both the threads of the stitches in the row before, are taken up
together, instead of the back one only.
RUSSIAN CROSSED STITCH (fig. 410).—To work this stitch which runs in
slanting lines, put the needle in between the vertical threads of the
stitches and underneath the two horizontal ones.
[Illustration: FIG. 410. RUSSIAN CROSSED STITCH.]
COUNTERPANE STITCH (fig. 411).—Counterpanes can be made in a less
close stitch than those just described.
[Illustration: FIG. 411. COUNTERPANE STITCH.]
To produce a soft and elastic fabric turn the thread round the needle
and insert it under both the horizontal threads of a loop, take up the
thread without turning it round the needle, draw it through in a loop,
make an over, and draw the thread through all the three loops, that you
have on the needle.
KNOTTED STITCH (fig. 412).—This stitch likewise is composed of plain
stitches, which, however differ in a slight degree from those we have
described hitherto.
[Illustration: FIG. 412. KNOTTED STITCH.]
Make an over, put the needle through the two horizontal threads of the
stitch below, make another over and draw it back through the two loops
and the first over, make another over, and draw the thread through the
last two loops.
LOOP STITCH (fig. 413).—Worked as follows: when you have put the
needle into the loop of a stitch below, carry the thread, downwards from
above, round a stripe of cardboard or a flat wooden ruler, then finish
the stitch in the usual way. These long loops, each about 2 c/m. in
length, can also be made over the forefinger and held fast by the thumb
as you work, but it is more difficult to make them regular in this way.
Each row of long stitches is followed by a row of plain stitches. The
side, where the long loops lie, becomes the right side. If you wish this
stitch to be very thick and handsome, wind the thread three times round
the ruler, or finger, and secure it with a plain stitch; in this case,
you should make one plain stitch between every two clusters. A loose,
fleecy thread is generally used for this stitch, and for washing
articles more especially, we recommend Coton à repriser D.M.C.
[Illustration: FIG. 413. LOOP STITCH.]
PLAIN STITCHES FOR A CHAIN (fig. 414).—Begin with two chain stitches,
put the needle in between the two threads of the first chain stitch,
turn the thread round the needle and draw it through in a loop, turn it
round again and draw it through the two loops; then, put the needle into
the left part of the stitch that was just made, turn the thread round
the needle, draw it through the two loops and so on, to the end.
[Illustration: FIG. 414. PLAIN STITCHES FOR A CHAIN.]
A chain of this kind makes a very good substitute for _mignardise_ when
that can not be got of the right size and colour for the required
purpose.
(4) TREBLES.—Trebles are little columns, or bars made of loops or
stitches. They can be worked, like all other crochet, either to and fro,
or all one way. There are different kinds of trebles; half or short
trebles, trebles, double trebles, called also ‘long stitch’, and
quadruple and quintuple trebles, called ‘extra long stitch’, connected
trebles and crossed trebles.
HALF TREBLES (fig. 415).—Turn the cotton round the needle from
behind, put the needle in between the trebles of the preceding row, or
into one edge of a chain stitch; make an over, bring the needle forward
again with the thread, make another over and draw the needle through all
three loops.
[Illustration: FIG. 415. HALF TREBLES]
TREBLES (figs. 416 and 417).—Begin, as for the half treble, by
turning the thread round the needle, and putting it in under one edge of
the stitch beneath, then take up the thread on the needle and bring it
through two of the loops, take it up again, and draw it through the two
remaining loops.
[Illustration: FIG. 416. TREBLES MADE DIRECTLY ABOVE ONE ANOTHER.]
[Illustration: FIG. 417. TREBLES SET BETWEEN THOSE OF THE PRECEDING
ROW.]
In fig. 417, we have trebles made in the same manner as fig. 416, only
that instead of putting the needle under one edge of the stitch beneath,
you put it under both, and between the trebles of the last row.
[Illustration: FIG. 418. DOUBLE TREBLES OR ‘LONG STITCH’.]
DOUBLE TREBLES OR ‘LONG STITCH’ (fig. 418).—Turn the thread twice
round the needle, put it into a stitch of the work and bring the thread
through in a loop, then take up the thread on the needle and bring it
through two of the loops, three times in succession.
[Illustration: FIG. 419. TRIPLE AND QUADRUPLE TREBLES OR ‘EXTRA LONG
STITCH’.]
TRIPLE AND QUADRUPLE TREBLES OR ‘EXTRA LONG STITCH’ (fig. 419).—For a
triple treble, twist the cotton three times round the needle, for a
quadruple one, four times, then form the treble in the usual way by
bringing the needle through two of the loops at a time. To make a series
of trebles, of gradually increasing length, bring the needle, at every
other treble, through the last three loops, so that before making a
triple treble you will have to make columns, respectively, 1 treble, 1½
treble, 2 trebles and 2½ trebles long. Columns like these, of different
lengths, are often required in crochet work, for leaves and scalloped
edgings.
CONNECTED TREBLES (fig. 420).—Trebles, connected together, can be
worked to and fro, and take the place of plain stitches. Begin with a
chain, then make a treble of the required height, form as many loops as
you made overs for the treble, take up the upper thread of the stitch
nearest the treble, turn the thread round the needle, bring it back to
the right side and draw the needle through the trebles, two at a time.
[Illustration: FIG. 420. CONNECTED TREBLES.]
CROSSED TREBLES (figs. 421 and 422).—Trebles of this sort produce an
open stitch, which is often used for the footing of lace, or for an
insertion. Make a foundation of chain, or other stitches, and proceed as
follows: 3 chain, miss 2 stitches of the row beneath, make 1 treble in
the third stitch, 5 chain, 1 over, put the needle in between the loops
of the connected trebles and finish with a treble. Then make a double
over, put the needle into the next loop of the preceding row, make
another over, draw the needle through the loops, make another over and
join the two next loops. This leaves 3 loops on the needle. Make an
over, put the needle into the third stitch of the row beneath, make an
over, and bring the needle back to the right side.
[Illustration: FIG. 421. CROSSED TREBLES.]
[Illustration: FIG. 422. CROSSED TREBLES, SET BETWEEN THOSE OF THE
PRECEDING ROW.]
Join the 5 loops on the needle together, 2 and 2, make 2 chain, 1 over,
put the needle into the upper parts of the connected trebles and finish
with a treble, and so on.
These trebles also can be lengthened if necessary, but in that case, the
width of the crossed treble must correspond with the height. Generally
speaking you make the trebles over the same number of stitches as you
made overs on the needle, which should always be an even number.
TREBLES FOR A CHAIN.—A quicker way of making a wide footing for a
crochet lace is to make the trebles in the following manner.
Make 4 chain stitches, 2 overs, put the needle into the first of the 4
chain, 1 over, draw the thread through the stitch *, 1 over, draw the
thread through the next 2 loops and repeat twice from * = ** 2 overs,
put the needle into the left bottom part of the treble, close the treble
as before and repeat from **.
(5) KNOT STITCH (fig. 423).—This stitch which is composed of several
loops forming a tuft, can only be worked from one side, consequently all
one way. It looks best in a coarse material to show the interlacing of
the threads.
Enter the needle through the two loops of the stitches of the bottom
row, turn the thread round the needle, but away from you towards the
back; bring it forward to the right side, put the needle again through
one of the bottom stitches, make another over like the first and draw
the needle through all the bars at once.
[Illustration: FIG. 423. KNOT STITCH.]
(6) BULLION STITCH (figs. 424 and 425).—For bullion stitch, select a
needle, a little thicker towards the handle, and finer than you would
use for any other crochet stitch.
[Illustration: FIG. 424. BULLION STITCH.]
[Illustration: FIG. 425. BULLION STITCH.]
Begin by making a chain of very loose stitches, then wind the thread
several times, very evenly, round the needle. Insert the needle into a
loop of the chain, make a single over, and draw it with the last over
upon it, through all the other overs.
Trebles in bullion stitch, fig. 425, are worked in just the same manner,
only that you have to turn the thread, at least 10 or 12 times round the
needle and draw it through all the overs at once. To facilitate the
passage of the needle, keep the overs in their place with the thumb and
forefinger of the left hand.
Bullion stitch can only be worked with wool or a very fleecy thread,
such as Coton à repriser D.M.C,[A] but trebles in bullion stitch can be
worked in any of the D.M.C threads and cottons.
(7) CLUSTER STITCH (fig. 426).—Generally used as an insertion between
rows of plain crochet.
[Illustration: FIG. 426. CLUSTER STITCH.]
Put the needle under one stitch of the preceding row, make an over, draw
the thread through in a loop, make another over, put the needle in again
under the same stitch, bring it back, make a third over, and pass a
third time under the same stitch; bring the needle back, make a fourth
over and pass the needle through all the loops that are upon it.
Then, after making a chain stitch, begin the same stitch over again,
placing it in the second stitch of the lower row.
Cluster stitch may also be finished off by retaining the two last loops
on the needle, making an over, and ending with a plain stitch.
(8) DOUBLE STITCH (fig. 427).—A rather coarse thread, such as Coton à
tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 12, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 3 to 10, or Fil
à pointer D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30[A] is better for this stitch than a loose
fleecy thread which is apt to render it indistinct. Take up a loop right
and left of a stitch of the preceding row, so that counting the loop of
the last stitch, you have 3 loops on the needle, make an over and draw
it through the 3 loops. Then take up a loop again by the side of the one
you made on the left, and which now lies on the right. Take 2 loops in
the next stitch, make an over and draw it through all the loops.
[Illustration: FIG. 427. DOUBLE STITCH.]
RAISED STITCH (fig. 428).—All the stitches that come under this heading
require a foundation of a few plain rows for the raised trebles. In fig.
428, you will observe that the fourth stitch in the fourth row is a
double treble, connected with a loop of the fourth stitch of the first
row.
[Illustration: FIG. 428. RAISED STITCH.]
Miss the stitch of the preceding row, which is hidden under the treble,
make 3 plain stitches, 1 double treble, and so on.
Having finished this row, turn the work and make a plain row. In the
next row begin with 4 plain stitches, then make 1 double treble between
the 3 stitches that are between the first trebles, 3 plain stitches, 2
double trebles and so on.
In the 8th row of plain stitches, the trebles must be placed in the same
order as in the 4th.
RAISED STITCH WITH CROSSED TREBLES (fig. 429).—Begin, as in fig. 428,
by 3 rows of plain stitches. The 4th row begins with 2 plain stitches
followed by: * 1 double treble joined to the upper part of the 1st
stitch of the 1st row; keep the 2 last loops of this treble on the
needle; make a double over for the next treble, pass the needle through
the fourth stitch of the first row, make an over, turn the thread round
the needle, bring it back, finish the treble all but the last 3 loops,
which you crochet together. Miss the stitch behind the treble, make 3
plain stitches and repeat from *.
[Illustration: FIG. 429. RAISED STITCH, WITH CROSSED TREBLES.]
Then turn the work, make one plain row, and turn the work back to the
right side.
The second row of trebles begins with a plain stitch. The way in which
the trebles are to be crossed is shewn in the illustration.
RAISED STITCH WITH DOTS (fig. 430).—After making 3 plain rows, begin
the 4th with 3 plain stitches, and proceed as follows: * 6 trebles into
the 4th plain stitch of the preceding row, leaving the last loop of each
treble on the needle, so that altogether you have 7 loops upon it; then
you turn the thread once round the needle and draw it through the loops;
miss the stitch that is underneath the dot, make 3 plain stitches and
repeat from *.
[Illustration: FIG. 430. RAISED STITCH WITH DOTS.]
Then make 3 rows of plain stitches; in the 4th row, the 1st dot is made
in the 4th stitch, so that the dots stand out in relief.
RAISED DOTS WITH TREBLES (fig. 431).—Turn the work after making 3
rows of plain stitches, make 3 stitches more in the 4th stitch of the
1st row, * 6 trebles, drop the last stitch of the 6th treble, put the
needle into the stitch between the last plain stitch and the 1st treble,
take the dropped loop of the last treble and draw it through the one on
the needle; miss the stitch under the dot, make 5 plain stitches and
repeat from *.
[Illustration: FIG. 431. RAISED DOTS WITH TREBLES.]
RAISED DOTS IN SLANTING LINES (fig. 432).—On the rows of stitches
that have been previously prepared, make, for the 4th stitch of the 4th
row, a cluster stitch, as in fig. 426, with 1 quadruple over and then 4
plain stitches, 1 cluster stitch and so on. The next row is plain; in
the second you have to make 1 plain stitch more, and fasten the cluster
stitches into the loops to the left of the second of the 3 covered rows.
In this way you have to make each raised stitch, one stitch, in advance
and to the left of the last, so that they run in slanting lines over the
surface.
[Illustration: FIG. 432. RAISED DOTS IN SLANTING LINES.]
CLOSE SHELL STITCH (fig. 433).—This pretty stitch which can only be
worked in rows, all one way, is more especially suitable for children’s
jackets and petticoats; it is easy, and has the merit of being quickly
done. On a foundation of chain, or other stitches, make: 2 chain, 7
trebles on the 4th stitch, * 1 chain, 7 trebles on the 5th stitch of the
last row and repeat from *.
[Illustration: FIG. 433. CLOSE SHELL STITCH.]
2nd row—** 7 trebles on the chain stitch of the last row which
connects 7 bars, 1 plain stitch on the 4th of the 7 trebles of the first
row and repeat from **.
PICOTS.—The edges of most crochet work are ornamented with picots, or
small points of different shapes, called severally close picots, chain
picots and lace picots.
Close picots may be subdivided into, large and small, pointed, and
rounded, picots with rounded leaves and picots with pointed leaves.
SMALL ROUNDED PICOTS.—These may either be made separately and then
sewn on, or made at once, on to a crochet border. In the first case,
begin with 3 chain, then coming back, make 1 plain stitch on the second
and on the first chain stitch. In the second case make: 1 chain, take
the needle out of the stitch and put it in from the right side, under
both edges of the last stitch, take up the dropped stitch, bring it to
the right side, * 3 chain; then returning: 1 plain stitch on each chain,
draw the needle out, put it in from the right side into the second
stitch of the row beneath, take up the loop, bring it back to the right
side, and repeat from *.
LARGE ROUNDED PICOTS.—5 chain, miss 3, 1 treble on the 2nd and 1
treble on the 1st chain stitch.
When you want to attach these picots at once to an existing piece of
work, drop the last loop and bring it back again with the needle from
the wrong side to the right and miss 2 stitches, instead of one, as in
the case of the small picots.
POINTED PICOTS.—Cast on 6 chain, then returning, and missing the 6th
stitch: 1 single stitch, 1 plain stitch, 1 half treble, 1 treble, 1
double treble.
PICOTS WITH ROUNDED LEAVES.—* 4 chain, and 3 trebles on the first
stitch, and 1 single on the same stitch on which the trebles were, **,
or 6 chain and repeat from * to **.
When these picots serve as a finish to a straight edge, make 2 single
stitches in the preceding row instead of 2 chain.
PICOTS WITH POINTED LEAVES.—6 chain, on the first chain stitch: 3
double trebles, of which you retain the two last loops on the hook, 1
over, draw the thread through the 4 loops, 5 chain, 1 single on the
stitch on which the trebles are.
CHAIN PICOTS.—For the small chain picots, make: 5 chain and 1 plain
stitch on the first of these 5 stitches. For the large ones: 5 chain and
1 treble on the first stitch.
PICOTS IN BULLION STITCH (figs. 424 and 425).—5 chain, 1 treble in
bullion stitch drawn up into a ring, and joined to the 5th chain stitch.
[Illustration: FIG. 434. DROOPING PICOTS.]
DROOPING PICOTS (fig. 434).—5 chain, drop the loop, put the needle
into the first of the 5 chain, take up the dropped loop, and draw it
through the stitch.
[Illustration: FIG. 435. EMPTY LACE PICOTS, WORKED IN CROCHET.]
[Illustration: FIG. 436. LACE PICOTS ATTACHED TO A ROW OF STITCHES MADE
BEFORE HAND.]
LACE PICOTS (figs. 435 and 436).—Fig. 435 represents picots formed of
chain stitches, as follows: 2 chain, put the needle into the first, 1
over, bring the thread back to the front, 2 chain: * put the needle into
the two loops, and at the same time, into the second loop and the first
chain, draw the thread through in a loop, make 2 chain and repeat from
*.
In order to make the picots more even and regular, it is advisable to
form them over a coarse knitting needle or mesh.
Fig. 436 represents picots attached by plain stitches to the edge of a
finished piece of work; this is done as follows: 1 plain stitch, draw
out the loop to the proper length for a picot, and slip it on a mesh:
put the needle into the horizontal parts of the last stitches, turn the
thread round the needle, draw it through in a loop, and make 1 plain
stitch on the next stitch and so on.
[Illustration: FIG. 437. OPEN-WORK CROCHET MADE AFTER A TAPESTRY
PATTERN.]
[Illustration: FIG. 438. PLAIN CROCHET MADE AFTER A TAPESTRY PATTERN.]
METHOD FOR COPYING TAPESTRY PATTERNS IN CROCHET WORK (figs. 437 and
438).—Printed cross stitch and embroidery patterns can very well be
copied in crochet work especially when they are in two colours only, or
rather, are drawn in one colour, on a plain ground.
The way in which such patterns are copied in crochet is by means of
chain stitches and trebles, which, rising one above the other in rows,
form little squares. For each square marked on the pattern, you must
count, in the grounding, 1 treble and 2 chain stitches; in the solid
parts, 3 trebles.
The squares formed by the chain stitches should always begin and end
with a treble.
When, therefore, a solid square comes between empty or foundation
squares, count 4 trebles for the solid square, because the last treble
of the last empty square touches the third treble of the solid one.
Thus for 2 solid squares, side by side, count 7 trebles, and for 3
squares, 10. Embroidery patterns worked in several colours can be
reproduced in crochet either by trebles and rows worked one way only,
cutting off the thread at the end of each row, or by plain stitches,
worked in rows to and fro.
When only three colours are used, pass two threads under the stitches;
when more than two, leave those which are not in use, at the back of the
work and only bring them to the front as they are wanted. The thread,
you lay aside, takes at the back the place of the one in use. Of course,
the threads not in use can only can be disposed of in this way when the
work has a wrong side, otherwise they must be passed underneath the
stitches. The colours should alternate in the order the pattern
prescribes; moreover, the last stitch before you take another colour
cannot be finished with the same thread, you must pass the new thread
through the last loop and draw it up with that.
[Illustration: FIG. 439. CROCHET WITH SOUTACHE OR LACET (BRAID).]
[Illustration: FIG. 440. CROCHET WITH SOUTACHE OR LACET (BRAID).
MATERIALS: Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 12 or Cordonnet 6 fil D.M.C
Nos. 3 to 10. Soutache D.M.C No. 2 or 3 or Lacets superfins D.M.C Nos. 2
to 5. COLOURS: The cotton, white or écru. The Soutache or Lacet:
Rouge-Cardinal 347, or Rouge-Grenat 326, or Bleu-Indigo 312.[A]]
CROCHET WITH SOUTACHE OR LACET (BRAID) (figs. 439 and 440).—These are
two patterns of crochet, worked with the ordinary crochet cottons and
with Soutache or Lacet D.M.C, a material which has not been used for
crochet work before.
Both patterns are worked entirely with trebles; in fig. 439, the red
braid passes over and under 2 trebles; in fig. 440, it is brought, it
will be observed, from the wrong side to the right after every 2
trebles, and passed between them, in such a manner as to form a slanting
stitch between the rows of stitches.
CROCHET SQUARE (fig. 441).—Begin with 4 chain stitches, and work 1
single on the 1st chain, to make a round. Work, 1 chain and 2 plain on
the next chain, 3 plain on each of the next 3 chain, 1 plain on the
stitch on which the two first plain are worked.
Slip the next stitch, that is, put the needle in between the horizontal
bars of the 1st plain stitch of the previous row, and draw the thread
out without making a stitch.
Then make 1 chain and 2 plain on the slipped stitch.
After which, you make 3 plain on the second of the 3 plain that form the
corner, and 1 plain on all the other stitches of the last row. The
beginning and end of each row, are worked as described above.
Fig. 441 represents a square, worked in consecutive rows. In making a
crochet square, the rows may end in the middle of a side.
[Illustration: FIG. 441. CROCHET SQUARE.]
When you use a stitch that has to be worked to and fro, you turn your
work at the end of every row and work back along the stitches you have
just made.
[Illustration: FIG. 442. CROCHET HEXAGON.]
CROCHET HEXAGON (fig. 442).—Make a foundation chain of 6 stitches,
join the round; 12 plain on the 6 chain; finish the row as indicated for
the previous figure == turn the work == * 1 plain, 3 plain on the second
plain of the last row; repeat 5 times from *. Finish the row with 1
single == turn the work == 2 plain, 3 plain on the second of the first 3
plain; 3 plain and so on. These hexagons can be made of any size.
COLOURED STAR WORKED INTO A LIGHT GROUND (fig. 443).—Begin with 3
chain, join the ring = 2 plain on each of the 3 chain; then for the
foundation, 1 plain with the dark thread, and 1 with the light on each
of the 6 plain.
In each subsequent row, make one dark stitch more, increasing regularly,
that is, making 2 stitches on the last light stitch that comes before
the dark ones.
Proceed in this manner until you have 6 or 8 dark stitches, in all and
then begin to decrease in every row by one, until there is at last only
one dark stitch remaining.
These stars are used in the making of purses, cap-crowns and mats for
lamps, etc.
[Illustration: FIG. 423. COLOURED STAR WORKED INTO A LIGHT GROUND.]
TUNISIAN CROCHET.—Tunisian crochet is also called crochet-knitting
because, you have to cast on all the first row of stitches, as in
knitting.
MATERIALS—Every kind of cotton, as well as wool and silk, can be used
for Tunisian crochet: the stitches look equally well in all these
materials, but for things that require frequent washing or cleaning, a
good washing material should be selected, such as Coton à tricoter D.M.C
and Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C[A], both strong and suitable in all ways.
As we have already said, Tunisian crochet requires to be done with a
long straight needle, with a knob at one end and it can only be worked
on the right side.
[Illustration: FIG. 444. PLAIN TUNISIAN CROCHET.]
PLAIN TUNISIAN CROCHET (fig. 444).—After making a foundation chain of
the required length, begin the first, or loop row as it is called. Put
the needle into the 2nd chain stitch, draw a loop through and so on,
until you have taken up all the chain stitches on the needle. After
having made the last stitch of the loop row, make 1 chain stitch and
then pass to the second row that completes the stitch. Turn the thread
round the needle, draw it through two loops, turn the thread round
again, and again draw it through two loops, and so on to the end.
[Illustration: FIG. 445. STRAIGHT PLAITED TUNISIAN STITCH.]
STRAIGHT PLAITED TUNISIAN STITCH (fig. 445).—Worked thus: miss the
first loop in the 1st row, take up the second, and come back to the
first, so that the 2 loops are crossed. Work the second row in the same
manner as the second row of the preceding figure.
[Illustration: FIG. 446. SLANTING PLAITED TUNISIAN STITCH.]
DIAGONAL PLAITED TUNISIAN STITCH (fig. 446).—Worked like the
preceding, taking up first the second loop and then the first: the
second row also, in the same way as before. In the third row, take up
the first stitch, and draw the third through the second, so as to
produce diagonal lines across the surface of the work.
OPEN TUNISIAN STITCH.—This is an easy kind of Tunisian crochet. The
first row is worked as in fig. 444. In the row of plain stitches, you
alternately join 2 and 3, or 3 and 4 loops of the preceding row
together, and replace them by as many chain stitches.
DECREASING AND INCREASING IN TUNISIAN CROCHET (fig. 447). Our
illustration shows how to decrease on both sides and by that means form
scallops.
[Illustration: FIG. 447. DECREASING IN TUNISIAN CROCHET.]
You miss a stitch alternately on the right and left. On the right you
crochet the first two stitches together, and at the end of the row, the
last two, and so on, to the end. You increase in the same order, first
on the right and then on the left.
HAIRPIN CROCHET (figs. 448, 449, 450).—So called because it is worked
on a kind of large steel hairpin or fork with two or more prongs. Wooden
and nickel varieties of this implement, which are patented by Mme
Besson, of Paris, are also used.
Very pretty laces, fringes, gimp headings and the like can be made in
this kind of crochet work. It is often used in combination with ordinary
crochet and plain and scalloped braids and gimps, or as a heading for
fringes made of tufts and pendant balls. There are a great many stitches
which can be worked in hairpin-crochet. We shall only describe those
here that will best teach our readers how the work is done.
MATERIALS.—For washing laces, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C is the best; for
furniture fringes, the lower numbers of Coton à tricoter D.M.C, and for
producing the appearance of filoselle, the lower numbers of Coton à
repriser D.M.C are to be taken.
[Illustration: FIG. 448. STEEL HAIRPIN FOR CROCHET.]
[Illustration: FIG. 449. WOODEN FORK FOR CROCHET.]
[Illustration: FIG. 450. FORK WITH SEVERAL PRONGS FOR CROCHET.]
STITCHES.—Begin by a chain stitch, made with an ordinary crochet
needle, take the needle out of the loop, and insert the left prong of
the fork upwards from below, holding the fork between the thumb and
finger of the left hand. The thread should always be in front. Then put
the thread over the right prong and the needle into the loop on the left
prong, take up the thread, draw it through the loop, put the thread over
the needle and draw it through the loop that is on the needle, twist the
loop round the left prong, turn the needle round to the right (the
thread will now be wound round the right prong); put the needle into the
loop on the left prong, throw the thread over the needle, draw it
through, tighten the loops and so on.
These stitches may be doubled, or you may make several trebles on each
loop, or arrange the plain stitches in different ways.
[Illustration: FIG. 451. HAIRPIN INSERTION.
MATERIALS: Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 20 or 30, or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C
Nos. 4 to 15, white or écru.[A]]
HAIRPIN INSERTION (fig. 451).—Begin by making stripes with the fork,
covering each thread with two plain stitches. Then join the stripes
together by the loops, drawing the left loop over the right one and the
right one over the left. When you come to the end of the stripes fasten
off the last loops by a few stitches. To strengthen the edges, join two
loops together by 1 plain, 2 chain, 1 plain and so on.
[Illustration: FIG. 452. HAIRPIN LACE
MATERIALS—For the hairpin work: Fil à pointer D.M.C Nos. 20 to 30, or
Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 3 to 10, white or écru. For the edge. Coton
à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 16 to 30.
COLOURS: Rouge-Cardinal 347, or Jaune-Rouille 364, or Brun-Marron
406.[A]]
HAIRPIN LACE (fig. 452).—When, by making two half trebles in each
loop, you have got the necessary length of hairpin crochet, join the
loops two and two, by means of a coloured thread which makes a good
contrast with the thread of which the hairpin crochet is made. Work 1
plain stitch joining 2 loops on the right, 2 chain, 1 plain joining the
2 loops on the left; then 2 chain and come back to the right, and so on,
until you have taken up all the loops. This forms the zigzag in the
middle.
1st row—join 3 loops by: 1 plain, 5 chain.
2nd row—on the 5 chain stitches: 1 plain, 1 half-treble, 3 trebles, 1
picot, made with 5 chain (for the chain picots, see p. 237), 1
half-treble, 1 plain. The footing of this lace is made like the one in
fig. 451.
[Illustration: FIG. 453. HAIRPIN FRINGE WITH TASSELS.]
HAIRPIN FRINGES (figs. 453, 454, 455, 456).—Fig. 453 is made with a
fork composed of one branch and 3 or 4 rulers, round which the thread is
wound in succession, so as to form loops of different lengths. You may
use for this, either a single very coarse thread, or else several fine
ones, used together as one.
The heading of the fringe is plain, and heavy tassels are fastened into
the loops. The tassels are made as follows: take a thick skein of the
same thread the fringe is made of, pass it through the loop, leaving
just the length required for the tassel, at one end, thread a needle
with the same thread and twist it round the skein, the right distance
from the top to form the head of the tassel and then cut the ends even,
at the bottom. As the loops are of different lengths, the tassels will
hang in steps and the fuller and heavier they are, the handsomer the
fringe will be.
[Illustration: FIG. 454. HAIRPIN FRINGE WITH TASSELS.