[A] See, at the end of the concluding chapter, the table of numbers and
sizes and the list of colours of the D.M.C threads and cottons.
[Illustration: NET STRIPE, IN IMITATION OF BRUSSELS LACE.]
Net and damask stitches.
Many net embroidery patterns and damask stitches consist of a
combination of ordinary running and darning, others of chain, stem and
cross stitch.
NET EMBROIDERY.—All these kinds of stitches can be worked on the
coarse Greek net, as it is called, as well as on the finest quality of
real Brussels net.
Stripes of net, finished off with button-hole edging, and ornamented
with one or other of the following patterns, make very pretty washing
laces and the like; net laid upon Irish point and converted by
needlework into a lace ground, makes an excellent substitute for a
hand-made ground, which demands much labour and time.
MATERIALS SUITABLE FOR NET EMBROIDERY.—The choice of material must be
determined by the quality of the net and the effect to be produced. For
a coarse make of net and a very marked pattern, the lowest numbers of
D.M.C cottons, or the narrowest braids, such as Soutache D.M.C Nos. 1,
2, 3 should be used; if the net be fine and the pattern a delicate one,
then the higher numbers of the following are preferable: Coton à
tricoter D.M.C Nos. 8 to 20, Coton à repriser D.M.C Nos. 25 to 70, Coton
à broder D.M.C Nos. 16 to 50, Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50, Coton
à broder surfin D.M.C Nos. 100, 120, 150. The latter must be adjusted to
the required size before being used, that is to say as many strands of
it removed, as is necessary in order to reduce it to the proper
thickness.
TRACING WITH RUNNING STITCHES (fig. 113).—Have your pattern traced on
linen or paper; tack the net upon it, and copy it carefully on the net
with running stitches. As in darning, the stitches must run first above
and then beneath, alternating in each succeeding row. At the turn of the
lines, the stitches cross each other, as shown in the illustration.
[Illustration: FIG. 113. TRACING WITH RUNNING STITCHES.]
NET PATTERN (fig. 114).—Here too the pattern is traced with running
stitches, which are run in on both sides of each row of meshes. The
thread is carried first to the right, and then to the left, under every
alternate bar of the net and out again. Between the first and second
rows, one thread of the foundation must be left uncovered. In the next
row, the thread is carried back again, so that it encircles each mesh.
In the third row, the thread passes under the same bar of net as in the
second, the threads touching each other. The fourth row is a repetition
of the first.
[Illustration: FIG. 114. NET PATTERN.]
NET PATTERN (fig. 115).—This consists of two rows of stitches. In the
first, the single stitches run diagonally from left to right, over and
under a mesh; in the second row the triple stitches, also carried
diagonally across a mesh, lie from right to left.
[Illustration: FIG. 115. NET PATTERN.]
NET PATTERN (fig. 116).—Begin with a double row, as in fig. 114; this
is followed by a row of cross-stitch, touching the others, for which the
thread has to be carried, first under one of the straight bars of the
mesh and then diagonally, across it. A second, similar row of stitches
backwards, completes the crosses. This can be further varied by the
introduction of a row of triple stitches, after the double row, as in
fig. 115, and the repetition of the two first only.
[Illustration: FIG. 116. NET PATTERN.]
These rows can also be worked in two colours, or in white thread and
washing gold.
NET PATTERN (fig. 117).—Begin at the top, carrying the thread, first
under and then over two bars and a mesh, and then underneath as before.
In the second as in the first row, the threads must be drawn in, so that
4 threads always meet in one mesh, and two run parallel to each other
through the same mesh.
[Illustration: FIG. 117. NET PATTERN.]
NET PATTERN (fig. 118).—This pattern, which resembles fig. 117 in the
execution, is thickened by triple stitches. Above, where in the
preceding row three threads were laid, the thread should be single.
[Illustration: FIG. 118. NET PATTERN.]
Very pretty varieties are to be obtained by the introduction of several
colours. Take white, for instance, for the first row, and different
shades of the same colour for the second, third, fourth and fifth rows;
such as, Bleu-Lapis 345, 344, 343, 333, 342, [A] or Rouge-Cardinal
348, 305, 304, 347, 346, [A] or Rouge-Géranium, Brun-Caroubier or any
other colour that is absolutely fast.
NET PATTERN (fig. 119).—After one row of cross-stitch, such as was
described in fig. 116, add a second, carrying the thread under the bar
that lies between the first stitches, so that the two rows only cover
three threads of the net. The close bands of cross-stitch must be
divided from each other by one row of net bars.
[Illustration: FIG. 119. NET PATTERN.]
NET PATTERN (fig. 120).—Draw the thread twice backwards and forwards,
as in darning, through one row of meshes. In the next, make four
stitches over one mesh and two bars. After the fourth stitch, the thread
is carried forward under two bars to the next group. The meshes filled
in thus are divided from each other by two double rows of darning
stitches. Here you may introduce a variety in the colour, using either
white and unbleached, or unbleached and pale blue, or some other
combination of the kind.
[Illustration: FIG. 120. NET PATTERN.]
NET PATTERN (fig. 121).—Make three diagonal stitches over three bars
and two meshes, then returning to the mesh out of which the first
stitches come, make three more in the opposite direction. In the second
row, the stitches meet in the same mesh as those of the first.
[Illustration: FIG. 121. NET PATTERN.]
NET PATTERN (fig. 122).—Carry the thread upwards from below, over a
bar of the net, then pass it horizontally under another bar and carrying
it downwards, pass it under a diagonal bar and cover the other three. In
the second row, your loops must be turned the opposite way. When the
whole foundation is finished, run a thread over the whole surface and
overcast it. A good effect is produced by using white and unbleached
cottons, in alternate rows.
[Illustration: FIG. 122. NET PATTERN.]
NET PATTERN (fig. 123).—This pattern consists of one row of
overcasting, one of stitches like those described in fig. 114, and one
of cross-stitch, as in fig. 39, running diagonally across the stuff.
Besides the cottons already mentioned, washing gold thread (Or fin D.M.C
pour la broderie), may be used for the overcasting. Dead gold introduced
into simple needlework of this kind enlivens it extremely.
[Illustration: FIG. 123. NET PATTERN.]
NET PATTERN (fig. 124).—Three kinds of stitches are required for this
pattern. In the first row the stitch lies crossed underneath the net; in
the second, 3 stitches are made over one mesh, the first and the last of
which are carried across three meshes. In the third row, button-hole
stitches are carried from right to left over two diagonal bars, in such
a manner that the thread is drawn through the mesh facing the loops, and
the next stitch comes out under the loop of the preceding one.
[Illustration: FIG. 124. NET PATTERN.]
NET PATTERN (fig. 125).—Fill in every other diagonal row of meshes
with chain stitch, inserting the needle into the same mesh it came out
of, so that the thread lies in front of the needle, in a loop. The rows
of chain stitch may be made with two or three rows of meshes between
them. Even the diagonal lines by themselves, make a very pretty
foundation for other stitches.
[Illustration: FIG. 125. NET PATTERN.]
NET PATTERN (fig. 126).—The first row worked from left to right,
consists of three loop stitches upwards and three downwards, each over
one bar. In the second row, divided from the first by one row of
stitches, the inner loops must be turned towards each other; in the
third, the outer ones. Any of the stitches, already described, can be
introduced into this pattern to enliven it.
[Illustration: FIG. 126. NET PATTERN.]
NET INSERTIONS (figs. 127 and 128).—These two, as well as the
subsequent patterns, are most of them worked in darning stitch and
simple overcasting.
The scallops in fig. 127 are formed of darning stitches, over 4, 3, 2
and 1 mesh, respectively. In the intervening space, which is five meshes
wide, the stitch shown in fig. 118, may be introduced.
[Illustration: FIG. 127. NET INSERTION.]
In repeating the pattern, the stitches forming the scallops, must be
made to run in the opposite direction. Instead of the thread, simply
drawn through the middle, little stars like those described in fig. 134,
have a very pretty effect.
In fig. 128, the thread is first carried round one mesh and then on to
the next scallop. In the second scallop, which turns the opposite way,
the thread is carried once more round the last mesh after the pyramid is
completed, and then on, to the next figure.
[Illustration: FIG. 128. NET INSERTION.]
NET PATTERN (fig. 129).—This checked pattern is also worked in
darning stitch. Carry the thread, as in fig. 125, through every second
row of meshes. When the bottom rows are all finished, the upper ones are
worked across them in the same way. Here the stitches may, if preferred,
be distributed more sparingly. But if they are set wider apart, the
spaces between should be filled up in some way. Little dots, made of
Coton à repriser D.M.C, will answer the purpose best.
[Illustration: FIG. 129. NET PATTERN.]
NET INSERTIONS (figs. 130, 131, 132).—These three patterns are
specially suitable, for insertions, neck-tie lappets and the like, in
the place of crochet, pillow, and other kinds of lace. Both design and
stitch are clearly enough represented in the subjoined figure for
further explanation to be unnecessary. All three should be worked with
rather coarse cotton, and Soutache D.M.C[A] (braid) drawn in, produces
an excellent effect.
[Illustration: FIG. 130. NET INSERTION.]
[Illustration: FIG. 131. NET INSERTION.]
[Illustration: FIG. 132. NET INSERTION.]
NET PATTERN (fig. 133).—These delicate little figures can be worked
into a close pattern, or can be strewn singly over the surface. The
closer you set the stitches, the more clear and distinct the stars will
be. The thread must be drawn in to the centre mesh from without, so as
to be invisible if possible, and then back again to the outside when the
stitches are finished.
[Illustration: FIG. 133. NET PATTERN.]
NET PATTERN (fig. 134).—These flowerets have a very pretty effect,
set either singly, or in double or triple rows, and are very useful for
filling up gaps or supplementing rows.
[Illustration: FIG. 134. NET PATTERN.]
NET PATTERN (fig. 135).—These star-shaped figures, their longest
stitch covering three straight bars and two meshes, the shortest, three
diagonal bars and two meshes, may like the above flowerets, be ranged
closely together in rows, so that four stitches, two horizontal and two
vertical ones, meet in one mesh. Cotton of two colours should be used,
in order that the figures may be distinct from each other: white and
unbleached are the best, in cases where bright colours would be
unsuitable.
[Illustration: FIG. 135. NET PATTERN.]
NET INSERTION (fig. 136).—These diamonds make a very pretty grounding
either set separately, or in a continuous pattern. The design is slight,
nevertheless, when it is worked in coarse cotton, the effect is
exceedingly handsome, especially if the inside, in addition to the star
here given, be enriched with ordinary darning-stitches, worked in fine
gold thread, as we have already mentioned.
[Illustration: FIG. 136. NET INSERTION.]
NET TRACERY WITH BORDER (fig. 137).—In order to bring out the pattern
and the colours, use instead of cotton, Soutache D.M.C, or Lacets
surfins D.M.C. Both are to be had in all the colours, given in the list
of colours of the D.M.C threads and cottons. The little border can be
used in conjunction with any of the preceding patterns, but care must
be taken not to let it get twisted in the working. To prevent this,
slip a coarse needle under the last stitch, and draw the braid flat over
it.
[Illustration: FIG. 137. NET TRACERY WITH BRAIDS. MATERIALS: Soutache
D.M.C No. 2 in Bleu-Indigo 334 and Rouge-Turc 321.]
BROAD NET LACE TRACERY (fig. 138).—The pattern of this pretty lace
must first be transferred to stout paper, or oil-cloth. All the leaves
and stalks, and the button-holing round the open centres of the flowers,
are worked in a pale green, the two bottom flowers in Turkey red, the
star-shaped one in blue, the calyx in which the stalks unite, in dark
red, and the little bells, in the lightest green.
[Illustration: FIG. 138. BROAD NET LACE TRACERY. MATERIALS: Coton à
broder D.M.C No. 30, 35 or 40.—COLOURS: Rouge-Turc 321, Rouge-Cardinal
346, Bleu-Indigo 322, Gris-Tilleul 393 and Vert-Pistache 369.]
NET DARNING.—We conclude with some directions for darning net, a
valuable art, by means of which many a curious piece of old needlework
is preserved. Coarse and fine net are all darned in the same way.
Laying the first thread (fig. 139).—Tack the net which is to be darned,
closely to the defective part, upon either oil-cloth or coloured paper
and cut the edges straight to the thread; Your thread must be of exactly
the same size, as that of which the net is made. It takes three rows of
stitches to imitate the net ground; in the first place, as shown in fig.
139, cross-threads must be laid from side to side, carried as in
darning, a little beyond the edges of the hole and so as to surround
each mesh with a slanting stitch.
[Illustration: FIG. 139. NET DARNING. LAYING THE FIRST THREAD.]
LAYING THE SECOND THREAD (fig. 140).—Secondly, beginning from one
corner, threads are laid diagonally across the first layer. The
cross-threads of the foundation are encircled by a stitch, made from
right to left, the needle is then carried under the next horizontal bar,
and the first layer of threads is overcast with similar stitches.
[Illustration: FIG. 140. NET DARNING. LAYING THE SECOND THREAD.]
LAYING THE THIRD THREAD (fig. 141).—Thirdly, threads are carried
across the second and first layers. They must start, far enough from the
edge, for the second layer of threads to be overcast at the same time,
so that there may be no loose threads left on the wrong side. In this
third journey, every diagonal thread of the foundation is to be
encircled with a stitch, taken upwards from below, the cut edges being
strengthened in the same way. Then, to form the little cross in the
fabric, the thread must be conducted by means of a second stitch, under
the single horizontal thread, outwards, to the next-diagonal thread.
[Illustration: FIG. 141. NET DARNING. LAYING THE THIRD THREAD.]
In places where the net is worn, it can be strengthened in the same
manner, the stitches being made the way of the stuff.
DAMASK STITCHES.—As a rule the pattern is simply outlined with stem
and cord stitch, and the inside spaces are left plain. In spite of the
time this simple tracing takes to do, the effect is rather poor and
scanty. If however, the inside of the leaves and flowers, be filled in
with damask stitch, the result is very handsome.
Not only can the following stitches, which are suitable for any linen
coarse or fine, be used for this kind of embroidery, but most of the net
and lace patterns too, and these combined with button-holing and flat
stitch produce charming effects.
MATERIALS SUITABLE FOR DAMASK STITCHES.—All the threads and cottons
used for net work can also be used for damask stitches, according to
the material and the kind of work. We will enumerate them once more:
Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 8 to 20, Coton à repriser D.M.C Nos. 25 to
70, Coton à broder D.M.C Nos. 16 to 50, Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to
50, Coton à broder surfin D.M.C Nos. 100, 120, 150.[A]
This kind of embroidery is generally done with a very coarse needle, to
press the threads of the stuff closely together and make the light
spaces between, which appear in many of the following illustrations.
FIRST PATTERN (fig. 142).—Carry the needle in a slanting direction
over three threads and bring it out, from right to left, under three
perpendicular ones, then again slanting, over three threads, from left
to right, and out again underneath three horizontal ones, downwards from
above. Thus the first stitch lies across, from right to left, the
second, lengthways. On the wrong side, the stitch forms a regular
succession of steps.
[Illustration: FIG. 142. FIRST PATTERN]
SECOND PATTERN (fig. 143).—This is worked exactly in the same manner
as fig. 142, only that the second row of stitches touches the first, so
that two threads enter and issue from the same hole.
[Illustration: FIG. 143. SECOND PATTERN]
THIRD PATTERN (fig. 144).—Though at first sight, this stitch is very
like the Holbein or stroke stitch, it is very different in the
execution. It is worked in two rows, to and fro; in the first, you make
all the vertical stitches side by side in the width of the stuff,
drawing your thread very tightly, in the second, coming back, you make
the horizontal stitches in a straight line, at right angles to the first
stitches. On the wrong side the stitches are crossed; they in thin
stuffs, show through, and quite alter the appearance of the right side.
[Illustration: FIG. 144. THIRD PATTERN.]
FOURTH, PATTERN (fig. 145).—In the first row, the thread is carried
slanting upwards from right to left, over two threads, then downwards
under two. Coming back, the stitches must be set the opposite way, so
that four threads meet in one hole.
[Illustration: FIG. 145. FOURTH PATTERN.]
FIFTH PATTERN (fig. 146).—This is worked like fig. 145, only that the
stitches must cover three threads each way. In the second row, you take
up one thread on the right and two on the left, to form your stitches.
[Illustration: FIG. 146. FIFTH PATTERN.]
SIXTH PATTERN (fig. 147).—Here, the stitches form a chess-board
pattern. You begin with a diagonal stitch over two threads and bring
your needle up again into the same line it started from. The second
stitch covers three threads, the third six, the fourth eight; the next
three decrease, successively in length, in the same proportion.
[Illustration: FIG. 147. SIXTH PATTERN.]
SEVENTH PATTERN (fig. 148).—Two kinds of cotton have to be used for
this pattern, one of them soft and flat, like Colon à repriser D.M.C[A]
(darning cotton) or Coton à tricoter D.M.C (knitting cotton)[A] for the
flat stitches, and the other strongly twisted, like Cordonnet 6 fils
D.M.C No. 8, 10, 12 or 15,[A] for the cross stitches.
[Illustration: FIG. 148. SEVENTH PATTERN.]
The five flat stitches cover three threads in width and six in height,
and lie from right to left and from left to right. In the second row,
which must be two threads distant from the first, the stitches must lie
in the contrary direction. In the lozenge-shaped space between, make
four cross stitches, over four threads in height and two in width.
EIGHTH PATTERN (figs. 149 and 150).—Make five stitches over 8
horizontal threads, miss 6 threads and make another 5 stitches. The
groups of long stitches above and beneath the first row, encroach over
two threads of the first group, so that a space of only four threads
remains between two groups. The stitch between these groups is generally
known as the rococo stitch.
[Illustration: FIG. 149. EIGHTH PATTERN.]
Bring out your needle between the third and fourth of these threads, and
insert it again above, drawing it out afterwards between the second and
third horizontal thread, and securing the first stitch with a back
stitch. Make the three remaining stitches, as explained in fig. 150.
[Illustration: FIG. 150. EXPLANATION OF THE ROCOCO STITCH IN FIG. 149.]
NINTH PATTERN (fig. 151).—This consists of straight bands of flat
stitches, covering three threads each way, with spaces 8 threads wide
between, ornamented with a small pattern in stroke stitch, (see chapter
on Tapestry and Linen embroidery).
[Illustration: FIG. 151. NINTH PATTERN.]
DAMASK STITCH FOR FIGS. 103 AND 105 (fig. 152).—The stitches, here
represented on a large scale, form the border to the square in cut
open-work in fig. 105. The long diagonal stitches, on either side, can
be made to look fuller and more distinct, by using a soft, coarse
cotton.
[Illustration: FIG. 152. DAMASK STITCH FOR FIGS. 103 AND 105.]
TENTH AND ELEVENTH PATTERNS (figs. 153 and 154).—The former of these
is used for filling in the short stripe in fig. 105, the second for the
long inside one. Fig. 153 is clear enough to need no explanation; with
reference to fig. 154, it is however as well to point out that the
shortest stitch should cover 4 threads and the longest 12, the rest is
easily learnt from the illustration. This is a very suitable design for
the decoration of large surfaces and combines well with any running
diagonal pattern, when it can be made to form a large star which can be
worked as a separate figure.
[Illustration: FIG. 153. TENTH PATTERN. DAMASK STITCH FOR FIGS. 104 AND
105.]
[Illustration: FIG. 154. ELEVENTH PATTERN. DAMASK STITCH FOR FIG. 105.]
TWELFTH PATTERN (fig. 155).—In cases where this and the following
stitches are to be executed on a light, transparent stuff, it is best to
use a very strongly twisted thread, such as Fil d’Alsace D.M.C [A] or,
Fil à dentelle D.M.C [A] instead of a softer and looser material. A
stiff thread compresses the threads of the stuff better and the open
spaces, thus made in it, are rendered more visible.
[Illustration: FIG. 155. TWELFTH PATTERN.]
Count 6 threads vertically, put in the needle and draw it through from
right to left, underneath 3 diagonal threads. For the next stitch, carry
it upwards over 6 threads, and back under 3. The second row is worked
back over the first in the same way. Leave 6 threads between each row.
THIRTEENTH PATTERN (fig. 156).—Carry the thread, from right to left
over four vertical threads, and under the same number of horizontal
ones. The second row of stitches touches the first, so that the thread
it is worked with seems to be drawn through under the same threads of
the stuff, as the one the first row was worked with.
[Illustration: FIG. 156. THIRTEENTH PATTERN.]
FOURTEENTH PATTERN (fig. 157).—Here, the stitches, contrary to those
in fig. 147, are set vertically. The first stitch covers 2 threads, the
second 6, the third 10, the fourth 14, the fifth 18. The longest
stitches of two checks always meet in the same hole.
[Illustration: FIG. 157. FOURTEENTH PATTERN.]
FIFTEENTH PATTERN (fig. 158).—Cover the whole expanse with rows of
stitches, such as are described in fig. 155, with intervals of 12
threads between them.
[Illustration: FIG. 158. FIFTEENTH PATTERN.]
These rows are intersected by others, to which the thread is passed,
from between the sixth and seventh of the 12 threads between the first
rows. Where the stitches of the two rows meet, the working thread of the
second row must be drawn through, under that of the first.
SIXTEENTH PATTERN (fig. 159).—Between every two rows of cross-stitch,
leave an interval of 6 threads, counting those on each side of the rows.
Over these 6 threads work 2 rows, as shown in fig. 148, but so, that in
the second, the lower stitch of the first row and the upper one of the
second, cover the same threads.
[Illustration: FIG. 159. SIXTEENTH PATTERN.]
SEVENTEENTH PATTERN (fig. 160).—This consists of stripes, 4 stitches
wide, like those of fig. 155, with 3 threads between, which are overcast
in the ordinary manner.
[Illustration: FIG. 160. SEVENTEENTH PATTERN.]
EIGHTEENTH PATTERN (fig. 161).—Small squares of 7 stitches, inclined
alternately, to the right and left, and so formed, that the longest
stitch of one square is crossed by the first short stitch of the next,
so that a space only 6 threads wide and 4 long, remains uncovered. The
intervening stripes are filled with 3 rows of overcasting stitches,
covering 2 threads each way.
[Illustration: FIG. 161. EIGHTEENTH PATTERN.]
NINETEENTH PATTERN (fig. 162).—The steps formed by this pattern are
11 stitches high, and 11 wide, and each stitch covers 4 threads.
[Illustration: FIG. 162. NINETEENTH PATTERN.]
Eight threads intervene between each row of steps, which are covered at
the bend, by a square of stitches, from the last of which, the thread is
carried on at once, to the four single stitches.
TWENTIETH PATTERN (fig. 163).—The 4 squares set opposite to each
other, with 2 threads between, are edged all round by 3 rows of
overcasting.
[Illustration: FIG. 163. TWENTIETH PATTERN.]
TWENTY-FIRST PATTERN (fig. 164).—Begin by rows of stitches, like
those described in fig. 155, over 4 and 2 threads, with 4 threads
between, not counting those covered with cross-stitch. Between the two
rows of cross-stitch, join 6 threads together by a back-stitch, and
carry your thread over the two last of the 6, to the 2 first of the next
cluster. The narrow diagonal stripes are separated by 24 threads,
exclusive of those covered by the cross-stitches. These spaces are
filled in with squares, 10 threads wide and 10 long, formed by
back-stitches crossed on the wrong side.
[Illustration: FIG. 164. TWENTY-FIRST PATTERN.]
TWENTY-SECOND PATTERN (fig. 165).—In the closer stuffs, of a coarse
texture, the threads of which do not admit of being drawn together, as
you can those, of a loose thin stuff, where, by simply pulling your
thread a little tighter you get open spaces, you must begin by cutting
out every fourth or fifth thread. After which, you overcast all the
rows, first one way, and then the other, with stitches covering 4
threads, each way. On this foundation with strong, loosely-twisted
cotton, Coton à broder D.M.C or Coton à tricoter D.M.C No. 25, 30, 35,
or 40, make long stitches, as indicated in the illustration.
[Illustration: FIG. 165. TWENTY-SECOND PATTERN.]
TWENTY-THIRD PATTERN (fig. 166.)—From the point where the thread
comes out of the stuff, make 16 stitches, four times over, all coming
out of the same hole, over 8, 6, 4 and 6 threads, thus forming a star.
Leave an interval of four threads between the stars, and unite the
intervening threads by cross-stitches one way, and whip-stitches, the
other.
[Illustration: FIG. 166. TWENTY-THIRD PATTERN.]
TWENTY-FOURTH PATTERN (fig. 167).—Make a succession of diagonal
stitches, increasing in length, and advancing one thread at a time,
until the seventh stitch covers seven threads, and completes the
triangle. Then begin a second triangle on the nearest, adjacent thread.
[Illustration: FIG. 167. TWENTY-FOURTH PATTERN.]
TWENTY-FIFTH PATTERN (fig. 168).—Cover your whole surface with
squares of 16 stitches, as in fig. 147, and fill in the intervening
squares with 23 stitches, all radiating from one centre.
[Illustration: FIG. 168. TWENTY-FIFTH PATTERN.]
TWENTY-SIXTH PATTERN (fig. 169).—Diagonal trellised stripes, made as
indicated in fig. 165, and overcast, form the ground. Twelve threads are
to be left between the stripes, upon which, work six-cornered,
lozenge-shaped groups of stitches, set at right angles to each other, in
diagonal rows.
[Illustration: FIG. 169. TWENTY-SIXTH PATTERN.]
TWENTY-SEVENTH PATTERN (fig. 170).—We conclude our chapter with a
circular design, which combines a variety of stitches, and introduces
our workers to two new patterns, as well as to an advantageous way of
hiding the junction of several kinds of stitches by semicircles of
button-hole stitching.
[Illustration: FIG. 170. TWENTY-SEVENTH PATTERN.]