[A] See at the end of the concluding chapter, the table of numbers and
sizes and the list of colours of the D.M.C threads and cottons.
[Illustration: STRIPE OF CUT OPEN-WORK ON WHITE LINEN.]
Single and cut Open-work.
The above heading comprises every sort of needle-work, to which the
drawing out of threads is a preliminary. By sewing over the single
threads that remain, and drawing them together in different ways, an
infinite variety of patterns can be produced. Many pretty combinations
also, can be made of open-work, cross-stitch, and other kinds of
embroidery.
MATERIALS SUITABLE FOR OPEN-WORK.—For all the coarser stuffs, such as
Holbein-linen, Java and linen-canvas and the like, now in such favour
for the imitation of old needlework, it will be best to use: Fil à
pointer D.M.C, No. 30[A] and Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C, Nos. 10 to 20,[A]
and for the finer stuffs, such as antique-linen and linen-gauze;
Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 50 to 150,[A] Fil d’Alsace D.M.C, Nos. 20 to
100, and Fil à dentelle D.M.C, Nos. 25 to 80.
Coloured patterns can also be executed in open-work, with Coton à broder
D.M.C Nos. 16 to 35, and Coton à repriser D.M.C, Nos. 25 to 50[A].
THE TWO DIFFERENT KINDS OF OPEN-WORK.—The one is called, single
open-work, the Italian Punto tirato, in which the first step is to draw
out one layer of threads; the other, cut open-work, the Italian Punto
tagliato, for which, both the warp, and the woof threads, have to be
drawn out.
SINGLE OPEN-WORK (PUNTO TIRATO).—This, in its simplest form, is the
ornamental latticed hem, in common use where something rather more
decorative than an ordinary hem (fig. 8) is required, and consists in
drawing out one layer of threads, either the warp or the woof.
SINGLE HEM-STITCH (fig. 55).—Draw out, according to the coarseness of
the stuff, two or four threads, below the edge of the turning, and tack
your hem down to the line thus drawn. Fasten your thread in to the left,
and work your hem from right to left, taking up three or four
cross-threads at a time, and inserting your needle, immediately above,
into the folded hem, three or four threads from the edge, and then
drawing it out.
[Illustration: FIG. 55. SINGLE HEM-STITCH.]
The same stitch is used for preventing the fringes, that serve as a
finish to so many articles of house-linen, from ravelling.
SECOND HEM-STITCH (fig. 56).—Prepare your hem as for fig. 55, and
work from left to right; with this difference, that after drawing two or
three cross-threads together, from right to left, you skip the same
number of perpendicular threads you took up below, and insert your
needle downwards from above, bringing it out at the bottom edge of the
hem.
[Illustration: FIG. 56. SECOND HEM-STITCH.]
These stitches, which can be used for the right side also, form a kind
of little tress, along the edge of the hem.
LADDER STITCH HEM (fig. 57). Complete the hem, as already directed in
fig. 55, then draw out three or five threads more, turn the work round,
and repeat the process, taking up the same clusters of threads which
you took up in the first row of stitches, thus forming little
perpendicular bars.
[Illustration: FIG. 57. LADDER STITCH HEM.]
DOUBLE HEM-STITCH (fig. 58). Begin as in fig. 55, forming your
clusters of an even number of threads; and then, in making your second
row of stitches, draw half the threads of one cluster, and half of the
next together, thereby making them slant, first one way and then the
other.
[Illustration: FIG. 58. DOUBLE HEM-STITCH.]
ANTIQUE HEM-STITCH (figs. 59, 60, 61 and 62). In the old, elaborate,
linen needlework, we often meet two kinds of hem-stitching seldom found
in modern books on needle-work. Figs. 59 to 62 are magnified
representations of the same. At the necessary depth for forming a narrow
hem, a thread is drawn, in the case of very fine textures where the edge
is rolled, not laid; then fasten in the working thread at the left, and
work the stitches from left to right. Passing your needle, from right to
left, under three or four threads, draw the thread round the cluster and
carry your needle on, through as many threads of the upper layer of
stuff, as you took up below, so that the stitch may always emerge from
the middle of the cluster.
[Illustration: FIG. 59. ANTIQUE HEM-STITCH. WRONG SIDE.]
[Illustration: FIG. 60. ANTIQUE HEM-STITCH. RIGHT SIDE.]
ANTIQUE HEM-STITCH (figs. 61 and 62).—These show, the right and
wrong sides of the hem; here the rolled hem is prepared as above, but
the stitches are worked from right to left, and the thread is carried
round the little roll, so that, as shown in fig. 62, it is visible on
both sides of the hem. The needle does not enter the stuff, but is
carried back at once, from the outside, and put in again between two
clusters of threads.
[Illustration: FIG. 61. ANTIQUE HEM-STITCH. WRONG SIDE.]
[Illustration: FIG. 62. ANTIQUE HEM-STITCH. RIGHT SIDE.]
SLANTING HEM-STITCH (figs. 63 and 64).—Bring out your needle and
thread, two or three threads above the edge of the turning, between the
first and second of the three cross-threads that compose the cluster,
and then slip it under the cluster, from right to left. The loop must
lie in front of the needle. When you have drawn up the stitch, put the
needle in, one thread further on, and take up two threads. Fig. 64 shows
the stitch on the right side.
[Illustration: FIG. 63. SLANTING HEM-STITCH. WRONG SIDE.]
[Illustration: FIG. 64. SLANTING HEM-STITCH. RIGHT SIDE.]
DOUBLE-ROWED ORNAMENTAL SEAM (figs. 65, 66, 67).—Begin with any one
of the hems already described, then counting as many threads downwards,
as are clustered together in the first row, draw out a second thread,
and cluster the perpendicular threads in this second line together, as
shown in figs. 65 and 66. On the right side the stitch is straight (fig.
67). Coloured cottons should be used for all the above patterns of
hem-stitch, when they are to be introduced into coloured embroideries.
[Illustration: FIG. 65. DOUBLE-ROWED ORNAMENTAL SEAM. WRONG SIDE.]
[Illustration: FIG. 66. DOUBLE-ROWED ORNAMENTAL SEAM. WRONG SIDE.]
[Illustration: FIG. 67. DOUBLE-ROWED ORNAMENTAL SEAM. RIGHT SIDE.]
SINGLE THREE-ROWED OPEN-WORK (fig. 68).—This, and the following
patterns, are suitable for the headings of hems, and for connecting
stripes of embroidery, and are also often used instead of lace, and lace
insertion.
Fig. 68 will be found specially useful, in cases where the object is, to
produce a good deal of effect, at the cost of as little labour as
possible. Make six rows of hem-stitching, as in fig. 55; the first and
sixth rows to serve as a finish, above and below.
[Illustration: FIG. 68. SINGLE THREE-ROWED OPEN-WORK.]
The second and third, after drawing out six threads, the third and
fourth after drawing out eight. The clusters must all consist of an even
number of threads. The upper and the lower band of open-work is to be
copied from fig. 58, the centre one, from fig. 57. Divide the threads of
the perpendicular clusters in two; insert the needle, from left to
right, underneath half the second cluster, turn the needle’s eye, by a
second movement, from left to right, and take up the second part of the
first cluster, drawing it under, and at the same time, in front of the
first half of the second cluster. Be careful not to draw your thread too
tightly.
OPEN-WORK WITH TWO THREADS DRAWN THROUGH (fig. 69).—One such wide
lane of open-work, between two finishing rows of stitches, may have two
threads drawn through it.
[Illustration: FIG. 69. OPEN-WORK WITH TWO THREADS DRAWN THROUGH.]
OPEN-WORK WITH THREE THREADS DRAWN THROUGH (fig. 70). Overcast both
edges with single stitches; draw the clusters together in the middle, as
in fig. 68; then above and below the middle thread, draw in first one
thread and then a second, straight above it, securing the latter with
back-stitches to enclose the clusters between two threads.
[Illustration: FIG. 70. OPEN-WORK WITH THREE THREADS DRAWN THROUGH.]
CLUSTERED OPEN-WORK (fig. 71).—Draw out from sixteen to eighteen
threads, between two hem-stitched edges. Fasten your thread in, 3 m/m.
above the seam-edge, and wind it three times round every two clusters,
passing the needle, the third time, under the two first rounds, to
fasten the thread. The thread, thus drawn through, must be left rather
slack. A second row of stitches, similar to the first, and at the same
distance from the bottom edge, completes this pattern. To give it
greater strength, you may if you like, work back over the first thread,
with a second, taking care to pass it under the knot, which was formed
by the first.
[Illustration: FIG. 71. CLUSTERED OPEN-WORK.]
DOUBLE-ROWED CLUSTER-OPEN-WORK (fig. 72).—A very good effect can be
obtained by making the above stitch in such a manner, as to form groups
of three clusters each, between hem-stitched bands of the stuff.
[Illustration: FIG. 72. DOUBLE-ROWED CLUSTER-OPEN-WORK.]
TURKISH CLUSTER OPEN-WORK (fig. 73).—After portioning off, and sewing
up the clusters on one side, draw out twelve or fourteen threads, and
make your connecting-stitch and hem, all in one, as follows: bring out
the thread before the cluster, and pass it round it, then from right to
left, over three horizontal and under four perpendicular threads, again
from left to right, over the four threads just passed over, and out at
the second cluster; laying it over this, you bring it out behind the
first cluster, wind it round the middle of them both, and pass it
through, between the overcasting stitches back to the hem; encircle the
second cluster with a loop-stitch, and carry your thread again over
three horizontal and four perpendicular threads, and upwards, slanting
underneath the stuff, out in front of the next cluster.
[Illustration: FIG. 73. TURKISH CLUSTER OPEN-WORK.]
OPEN-WORK WITH DARNING STITCH (fig. 74).—Draw out from eight to
twelve threads, according to the quality of the stuff. Insert your
needle and thread between two clusters, and pass it, as if you were
darning, backwards and forwards over them, until they are encased half
way down with stitches. In so doing, work with the eye of the needle
forward, and the point towards your thimble. To pass to the next
cluster, take one stitch back, under the one just darned, and bring your
thread underneath the threads of the stuff, to the second cluster.
[Illustration: FIG. 74. OPEN-WORK WITH DARNING STITCH.]
OPEN-WORK IN THREE COLOURS (fig. 75).—This pattern which is to be
done in the same way as fig. 74, requires the drawing out of, at least,
eighteen threads. Every cross-line of three clusters is to be worked in
one colour. The colours may all be different, or you may if you prefer,
take shades of the same colour.
[Illustration: FIG. 75. OPEN-WORK IN THREE COLOURS. COLOURS: Bleu-Indigo
311, 322, 334, Brun-Caroubier 354, 303, 357, or Rouge-Géranium 349, 351,
352.[A]]
OPEN-WORK INSERTION (figs. 76 and 77).—For both these, the edges are
to be overcast, and the darning stitches packed sufficiently closely
together, for the threads of the stuff to be entirely covered.
Fig. 76 requires the drawing out of eighteen threads, fig. 77, of
thirty. Both admit of several colours being used.
[Illustration: FIG. 76. OPEN-WORK INSERTION.]
[Illustration: FIG. 77. OPEN-WORK INSERTION.]
OPEN-WORK INSERTION (fig. 78).—After drawing out sixteen or eighteen
threads, bind both sides with stitches made over four horizontal and
four perpendicular threads, as follows; make one back-stitch over four
disengaged threads, then bring up your thread from right to left, over
four horizontal and under four perpendicular threads, back over the four
last threads, and draw it out beside the next cluster. The clusters, as
they now stand, are bound together in the middle, three by three, with
darning-stitches. The thread must be fastened in and cut off, after each
group is finished.
[Illustration: FIG. 78. OPEN-WORK INSERTION.]
OPEN-WORK INSERTION (fig. 79).—First bind the two edges with
stitches, in the ordinary way. At the last stitch introduce the thread
slanting, according to the dotted line, pass it under four horizontal
and three perpendicular threads of the stuff and draw it out; then over
three threads from right to left, and back under the same, from left to
right, and out again; over four horizontal threads, and, under and again
over, three perpendicular ones; for the next stitch, you again follow
the dotted slanting line.
[Illustration: FIG. 79. OPEN-WORK INSERTION.]
Then make the darning stitch over nine threads, or three clusters. At
half their length, you leave out three threads, first on the right, then
on the left, whilst in the other half, you, in a similar manner, take in
three; so that you have two darned and two undarned clusters, standing
opposite each other. Finally, you overcast the single clusters, and
connect every two with a lock-stitch, as shown in the accompanying
illustration.
OPEN-WORK INSERTION (fig. 80).—Draw out twenty threads, overcast both
edges with stitches, made over three threads. Then, make slanting
stitches, proceeding out from these, over three, six and nine threads
respectively, all three terminating in a perpendicular line, one below
the other.
[Illustration: FIG. 80. OPEN-WORK INSERTION.]
For the open-work, twist the thread five times, quite tightly round and
round one cluster, bring it to the edge, between the second and third
clusters, and connect these by means of six darning-stitches to and fro:
join the first and second clusters in the same way by twelve stitches,
and finish, by twisting the thread five times round the remaining length
of the first cluster. The second half of the open-work figure is
carried out in a similar manner over the third and fourth clusters.
OPEN-WORK INSERTION IN FOUR COLOURS (fig. 81).—Draw out, from
twenty-five to thirty threads. The outside figures are executed over six
clusters, of three threads each, in a dark and light shade alternately
of the same colour. Each of the middle figures combines three clusters
of the two figures above it, and may be executed, either in a different
colour altogether, or in a lighter shade of the one employed in the top
row. The little star in the centre should be worked in dark red, or
black.
[Illustration: FIG. 81. OPEN-WORK INSERTION IN FOUR COLOURS.
MATERIALS: Coton à broder D.M.C No. 20, or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos.
15 to 30.[A]