"Old Father Cats, my child, was a great poet, not a writer of plays like

the Englishman, Shakespeare, who lived in his time. I have read them in

the German and very good they are--very, very good--but not like Father

Cats. Cats sees no daggers in the air; he has no white women falling in

love with dusky Moors; no young fools sighing to be a lady's glove; no

crazy princes mistaking respectable old gentlemen for rats. No, no. He

writes only sense. It is great wisdom in little bundles, a bundle for

every day of your life. You can guide a state with Cats' poems, and you

can put a little baby to sleep with his pretty songs. He was one of the

greatest men of Holland. When I take you to the Hague I will show you

the Kloosterkerk where he lies buried. _There_ was a man for you to

study, my sons! he was good through and through. What did he say?

"'Oh, Lord, let me obtain this from Thee

To live with patience, and to die with pleasure!'[17]

[Footnote 17:

O Heere! laat my dat van uwen hand verwerven,

Te leven met gedult, en met vermaak te sterven.]

"Did patience mean folding his hands? No, he was a lawyer, statesman,

ambassador, farmer, philosopher, historian, and poet. He was keeper of

the Great Seal of Holland! He was a--Bah! there is too much noise here,

I cannot talk"--and Mynheer, looking with astonishment into the bowl of

his meerschaum--for it had "gone out"--nodded to his vrouw and left the

apartment in great haste.

The fact is, his discourse had been accompanied throughout with a

subdued chorus of barking dogs, squeaking cats and bleating lambs, to

say nothing of a noisy ivory cricket, that the baby was whirling with

infinite delight. At the last, little Huygens taking advantage of the

increasing loudness of Mynheer's tones, had ventured a blast on his new

trumpet, and Wolfert had hastily attempted an accompaniment on the drum.

This had brought matters to a crisis, and well for the little creatures

that it had. The saint had left no ticket for them to attend a lecture

on Jacob Cats. It was not an appointed part of the ceremonies. Therefore

when the youngsters saw that the mother looked neither frightened nor

offended, they gathered new courage. The grand chorus rose triumphant,

and frolic and joy reigned supreme.

Good Saint Nicholas! For the sake of the young Hollanders, I, for one,

am willing to acknowledge him, and defend his reality against all

unbelievers.

Carl Schummel was quite busy during that day, assuring little children,

confidentially, that not Saint Nicholas, but their own fathers and

mothers had produced the oracle and loaded the tables. But _we_ know

better than that.

And yet if this were a saint, why did he not visit the Brinker cottage

that night? Why was that one home, so dark and sorrowful, passed by?

X

WHAT THE BOYS SAW AND DID IN AMSTERDAM

"Are we all here?" cried Peter, in high glee, as the party assembled

upon the canal early the next morning, equipped for their skating

journey. "Let me see. As Jacob has made me captain, I must call the

roll. Carl Schummel----You here?"

"Ya!"

"Jacob Poot!"

"Ya!"

"Benjamin Dobbs!"

"Ya-a!"

"Lambert van Mounen!"

"Ya!"

"[That's lucky! Couldn't get on without _you_, as you're the only one

who can speak English.] Ludwig van Holp!"

"Ya!"

"Voostenwalbert Schimmelpenninck!"

No answer.

"Ah! the little rogue has been kept at home. Now, boys, it's just eight

o'clock--glorious weather, and the Y is as firm as a rock--we'll be at

Amsterdam in thirty minutes. One, Two, Three, START!"

True enough, in less than half an hour they had crossed a dyke of solid

masonry, and were in the very heart of the great metropolis of the

Netherlands--a walled city of ninety-five islands and nearly two hundred

bridges. Although Ben had been there twice since his arrival in Holland,

he saw much to excite wonder; but his Dutch comrades, having lived near

by all their lives, considered it the most matter-of-course place in the

world. Everything interested Ben; the tall houses with their forked

chimneys and gable ends facing the street; the merchants' warerooms,

perched high up under the roofs of their dwellings, with long, arm-like

cranes hoisting and lowering goods past the household windows; the grand

public buildings erected upon wooden piles driven deep into the marshy

ground; the narrow streets; the canals everywhere crossing the city; the

bridges; the locks; the various costumes, and, strangest of all, shops

and dwellings crouching close to the fronts of the churches, sending

their long, disproportionate chimneys far upward along the sacred walls.

If he looked up, he saw tall, leaning houses, seeming to pierce the sky

with their shining roofs; if he looked down, there was the queer street,

without crossing or curb--nothing to separate the cobblestone pavement

from the foot-path of brick--and if he rested his eyes half-way, he saw

complicated little mirrors [_spionnen_] fastened upon the outside of

nearly every window, so arranged that the inmates of the houses could

observe all that was going on in the street, or inspect whoever might be

knocking at the door, without being seen themselves.

Sometimes a dog-cart, heaped with wooden ware, passed him; then a donkey

bearing a pair of panniers filled with crockery or glass; then a sled

driven over the bare cobblestones (the runners kept greased with a

dripping oil rag so that it might run easily); and then, perhaps, a

showy, but clumsy family-carriage, drawn by the brownest of Flanders

horses, swinging the whitest of snowy tails.

The city was in full festival array. Every shop was gorgeous in honor of

Saint Nicholas. Captain Peter was forced, more than once, to order his

men away from the tempting show-windows, where everything that is, has

been, or can be thought of in the way of toys was displayed. Holland is

famous for this branch of manufacture. Every possible thing is copied in

miniature for the benefit of the little ones; the intricate mechanical

toys that a Dutch youngster tumbles about in stolid unconcern would

create a stir in our Patent Office. Ben laughed outright at some of the

mimic fishing boats. They were so heavy and stumpy, so like the queer

craft that he had seen about Rotterdam. The tiny trekschuiten, however,

only a foot or two long, and fitted out, complete, made his heart

ache--he so longed to buy one at once for his little brother in England.

He had no money to spare, for with true Dutch prudence, the party had

agreed to take with them merely the sum required for each boy's

expenses, and to consign the purse to Peter for safekeeping.

Consequently Master Ben concluded to devote all his energies to

sightseeing, and to think as seldom as possible of little Robby.

He made a hasty call at the Marine school and envied the sailor students

their full-rigged brig and their sleeping-berths swung over their trunks

or lockers; he peeped into the Jews' Quarter of the city, where the rich

diamond cutters and squalid old-clothes men dwell, and wisely resolved

to keep away from it; he also enjoyed hasty glimpses of the four

principal avenues of Amsterdam--the Prinsen gracht, Keizers gracht,

Heeren gracht and Singel. These are semicircular in form, and the first

three average more than two miles in length. A canal runs through the

centre of each, with a well-paved road on either side, lined with

stately buildings. Rows of naked elms, bordering the canal, cast a

network of shadows over its frozen surface; and everything was so clean

and bright that Ben told Lambert it seemed to him like petrified

neatness.

Fortunately the weather was cold enough to put a stop to the usual

street-flooding, and window-washing, or our young excursionists might

have been drenched more than once. Sweeping, mopping and scrubbing form

a passion with Dutch housewives, and to soil their spotless mansions is

considered scarcely less than a crime. Everywhere a hearty contempt is

felt for those who neglect to rub the soles of their shoes to a polish

before crossing the door-sill; and, in certain places, visitors are

expected to remove their heavy shoes before entering.

Sir William Temple, in his Memoirs of "What passed in Christendom from

1672 to 1679," tells a story of a pompous magistrate going to visit a

lady of Amsterdam. A stout Holland lass opened the door, and told him in

a breath that the lady was at home and that his shoes were not very

clean. Without another word, she took the astonished man up by both

arms, threw him across her back, carried him through two rooms, set him

down at the bottom of the stairs, seized a pair of slippers that stood

there and put them upon his feet. Then, and not until then, she spoke,

telling him that her mistress was on the floor above, and that he might

go up.

While Ben was skating, with his friends, upon the crowded canals of the

city, he found it difficult to believe that the sleepy Dutchmen he saw

around him, smoking their pipes so leisurely, and looking as though

their hats might be knocked off their heads without their making any

resistance, were capable of those outbreaks that had taken place in

Holland--that they were really fellow-countrymen of the brave, devoted

heroes of whom he had read in Dutch history.

As his party skimmed lightly along he told Van Mounen of a burial-riot

which in 1696 had occurred in that very city, where the women and

children turned out, as well as the men, and formed mock funeral

processions through the town, to show the burgomasters that certain new

regulations, with regard to burying the dead, would not be acceded

to--how at last they grew so unmanageable, and threatened so much damage

to the city that the burgomasters were glad to recall the offensive law.

"There's the corner," said Jacob, pointing to some large buildings,

"where, about fifteen years ago, the great corn-houses sank down in the

mud. They were strong affairs, and set up on good piles, but they had

over seventy thousand hundred-weight of corn in them; and that was too

much."

It was a long story for Jacob to tell and he stopped to rest.

"How do you know there were seventy thousand hundred-weight in them?"

asked Carl sharply--"you were in your swaddling clothes then."

"My father knows all about it," was Jacob's suggestive reply. Rousing

himself with an effort, he continued--"Ben likes pictures. Show him

some."

"All right," said the captain.

"If we had time, Benjamin," said Lambert van Mounen in English, "I

should like to take you to the City Hall or _Stadhuis_. There are

building-piles for you! It is built on nearly fourteen thousand of

them, driven seventy feet into the ground. But what I wish you to see

there is the big picture of Van Speyk blowing up his ship--great

picture."

"Van _who_?" asked Ben.

"Van Speyk. Don't you remember? He was in the height of an engagement

with the Belgians, and when he found that they had the better of him and

would capture his ship, he blew it up, and himself too, rather than

yield to the enemy."

"Wasn't that Van Tromp?"

"Oh, no. Van Tromp was another brave fellow. They've a monument to him

down at Delft Haven--the place where the Pilgrims took ship for

America."

"Well, what about Van Tromp? He was a great Dutch Admiral; wasn't he?"

"Yes, he was in more than thirty sea-fights. He beat the Spanish fleet

and an English one, and then fastened a broom to his masthead to show

that he had swept the English from the sea. Takes the Dutch to beat, my

boy!"

"Hold up!" cried Ben, "broom or no broom, the English conquered him at

last. I remember all about it now. He was killed somewhere on the Dutch

coast, in an engagement in which the British fleet was victorious. Too

bad," he added maliciously, "wasn't it?"

"Ahem! where are we?" exclaimed Lambert changing the subject. "Hollo!

the others are way ahead of us--all but Jacob. Whew! how fat he is!

He'll break down before we're half-way."

Ben of course enjoyed skating beside Lambert, who though a staunch

Hollander, had been educated near London, and could speak English as

fluently as Dutch; but he was not sorry when Captain van Holp called

out:

"Skates off! There's the Museum!"

It was open, and there was no charge on that day for admission. In they

went, shuffling, as boys will, when they have a chance, just to hear the

sound of their shoes on the polished floor.

This Museum is in fact a picture gallery where some of the finest works

of the Dutch masters are to be seen, beside nearly two hundred

portfolios of rare engravings.

Ben noticed, at once, that some of the pictures were hung on panels

fastened to the wall with hinges. These could be swung forward like a

window-shutter, thus enabling the subject to be seen in the best light.

The plan served them well in viewing a small group by Gerard Douw,

called the "Evening School," enabling them to observe its exquisite

finish and the wonderful way in which the picture seemed to be lit

through its own windows. Peter pointed out the beauties of another

picture by Douw, called "The Hermit," and he also told them some

interesting anecdotes of the artist, who was born at Leyden in 1613.

"Three days painting a broom handle!" echoed Carl in astonishment, while

the captain was giving some instances of Douw's extreme slowness of

execution.

"Yes, sir; three days. And it is said that he spent five in finishing

one hand in a lady's portrait. You see how very bright and minute

everything is in this picture. His unfinished works were kept carefully

covered, and his painting materials were put away in airtight boxes as

soon as he had finished using them for the day. According to all

accounts, the studio itself must have been as close as a band-box. The

artist always entered it on tiptoe, besides sitting still, before he

commenced work, until the slight dust caused by his entrance had

settled. I have read somewhere that his paintings are improved by being

viewed through a magnifying glass. He strained his eyes so badly with

this extra finishing, that he was forced to wear spectacles before he

was thirty. At forty he could scarcely see to paint, and he couldn't

find a pair of glasses anywhere that would help his sight. At last, a

poor old German woman asked him to try hers. They suited him exactly,

and enabled him to go on painting as well as ever."

"Humph!" exclaimed Ludwig, indignantly, "that was high! What did _she_

do without them, I wonder?"

"Oh," said Peter, laughing, "likely she had another pair. At any rate

she insisted upon his taking them. He was so grateful that he painted a

picture of the spectacles for her, case and all, and she sold it to a

burgomaster for a yearly allowance that made her comfortable for the

rest of her days."

"Boys!" called Lambert, in a loud whisper, "come look at this Bear

Hunt."

It was a fine painting by Paul Potter, a Dutch artist of the seventeenth

century, who produced excellent works before he was sixteen years old.

The boys admired it because the subject pleased them. They passed

carelessly by the masterpieces of Rembrandt and Van der Helst, and went

into raptures over an ugly picture by Van der Venne, representing a

sea-fight between the Dutch and English. They also stood spellbound

before a painting of two little urchins, one of whom was taking soup and

the other eating an egg. The principal merit in this work was that the

young egg-eater had kindly slobbered his face with the yolk for their

entertainment.

An excellent representation of the "Feast of Saint Nicholas" next had

the honor of attracting them.

"Look, Van Mounen," said Ben to Lambert, "could anything be better than

this youngster's face? He looks as if he _knows_ he deserves a whipping

but hopes Saint Nicholas may not have found him out. That's the kind of

painting _I_ like; something that tells a story."

"Come, boys!" cried the captain, "ten o'clock, time we were off!"

They hastened to the canal.

"Skates on! Are you ready? ONE, TWO--hollo! where's Poot?"

Sure enough where _was_ Poot?

A square opening had just been cut in the ice not ten yards off. Peter

observed it, and without a word skated rapidly toward it.

All the others followed, of course.

Peter looked in. They all looked in; then stared anxiously at each

other.

"Poot!" screamed Peter, peering into the hole again. All was still. The

black water gave no sign; it was already glazing on top.

Van Mounen turned mysteriously to Ben.

"_Didn't he have a fit once?_"

"My goodness! yes!" answered Ben, in a great fright.

"Then, depend upon it, he's been taken with one in the Museum!"

The boys caught his meaning. Every skate was off in a twinkling. Peter

had the presence of mind to scoop up a cap-full of water from the hole,

and off they scampered to the rescue.

Alas! They did indeed find poor Jacob in a fit--but it was a fit of

sleepiness. There he lay in a recess of the gallery, snoring like a

trooper! The chorus of laughter that followed this discovery brought an

angry official to the spot.

"What now! None of this racket! Here, you beer-barrel, wake up!" and

Master Jacob received a very unceremonious shaking.

As soon as Peter saw that Jacob's condition was not serious, he hastened

to the street to empty his unfortunate cap. While he was stuffing his

handkerchief to prevent the already frozen crown from touching his head,

the rest of the boys came down, dragging the bewildered and indignant

Jacob in their midst.

The order to start was again given. Master Poot was wide awake at last.

The ice was a little rough and broken just there, but every boy was in

high spirits.

"Shall we go on by the canal or the river?" asked Peter.

"Oh, the river, by all means," said Carl. "It will be such fun; they say

it is perfect skating all the way, but it's much farther."

Jacob Poot instantly became interested.

"_I_ vote for the canal!" he cried.

"Well, the canal it shall be," responded the captain, "if all are

agreed."

"Agreed!" they echoed, in rather a disappointed tone--and Captain Peter

led the way.

"All right--come on--we can reach Haarlem in an hour!"

XI

BIG MANIAS AND LITTLE ODDITIES

While skating along at full speed, they heard the cars from Amsterdam

coming close behind them.

"Hollo!" cried Ludwig, glancing toward the rail-track--"who can't beat a

locomotive? Let's give it a race!"

The whistle screamed at the very idea--so did the boys--and at it they

went.

For an instant the boys were ahead, hurrahing with all their might--only

for an instant, but even _that_ was something.

This excitement over, they began to travel more leisurely, and indulge

in conversation and frolic. Sometimes they stopped to exchange a word

with the guards who were stationed at certain distances along the canal.

These men, in Winter, attend to keeping the surface free from

obstruction and garbage. After a snow-storm they are expected to sweep

the feathery covering away before it hardens into a marble pretty to

look at but very unwelcome to skaters. Now and then the boys so far

forgot their dignity as to clamber among the ice-bound canal-boats

crowded together in a widened harbor off the canal, but the watchful

guards would soon spy them out and order them down with a growl.

Nothing could be straighter than the canal upon which our party were

skating, and nothing straighter than the long rows of willow trees that

stood, bare and wispy, along the bank. On the opposite side, lifted high

above the surrounding country, lay the carriage road on top of the

great dyke built to keep the Haarlem Lake within bounds; stretching out

far in the distance until it became lost in a point, was the glassy

canal with its many skaters, its brown-winged ice-boats, its push-chairs

and its queer little sleds, light as cork, flying over the ice by means

of iron-pronged sticks in the hands of the riders. Ben was in ecstasy

with the scene.

Ludwig van Holp had been thinking how strange it was that the English

boy should know so much of Holland. According to Lambert's account he

knew more about it than the Dutch did. This did not quite please our

young Hollander. Suddenly he thought of something that he believed would

make the "Shon Pull" open his eyes; he drew near Lambert with a

triumphant:

"Tell him about the tulips!"

Ben caught the word "_tulpen_."

"Oh! yes," said he eagerly, in English, "the Tulip Mania--are you

speaking of that? I have often heard it mentioned, but know very little

about it. It reached its height in Amsterdam, didn't it?"

Ludwig moaned; the words were hard to understand, but there was no

mistaking the enlightened expression on Ben's face; Lambert, happily,

was quite unconscious of his young countryman's distress as he replied:

"Yes, here and in Haarlem, principally; but the excitement ran high all

over Holland, and in England too for that matter."

"Hardly in England,[18] I think," said Ben, "but I am not sure, as I was

not there at the time."

[Footnote 18: Although the Tulip Mania did not prevail in England as in

Holland, the flower soon became an object of speculation and brought

very large prices. In 1636, Tulips were publicly sold on the Exchange of

London. Even as late as 1800, a common price was fifteen guineas for one

bulb. Ben did not know that in his own day a single Tulip plant, called

the "Fanny Kemble" had been sold in London for more than 70 guineas.

Mr. Mackay in his "Memoirs of Popular Delusions" tells a funny story of

an English botanist who happened to see a tulip bulb lying in the

conservatory of a wealthy Dutchman. Ignorant of its value, he took out

his penknife and, cutting the bulb in two, became very much interested

in his investigations. Suddenly the owner appeared, and pouncing

furiously upon him, asked him if he knew what he was doing. "Peeling a

most extraordinary onion," replied the philosopher. "Hundert tousant

tuyvel!" shouted the Dutchman, "it's an Admiral Vander Eyk!" "Thank

you," replied the traveler, immediately writing the name in his note

book; "pray are these very common in your country?" "Death and the

tuyvel!" screamed the Dutchman, "come before the Syndic and you shall

see!" In spite of his struggles the poor investigator, followed by an

indignant mob, was taken through the streets to a magistrate. Soon he

learned to his dismay that he had destroyed a bulb worth 4,000 florins

($1,600). He was lodged in prison until securities could be procured for

the payment of the sum.]

"Ha! ha! that's true, unless you are over two hundred years old. Well, I

tell you, sir, there was never anything like it before nor since. Why,

persons were so crazy after tulip bulbs in those days, that they paid

their weight in gold for them."

"What, the weight of a man?" cried Ben, showing such astonishment in his

eyes, that Ludwig fairly capered.

"No, no, the weight of a _bulb_. The first tulip was sent here from

Constantinople about the year 1560. It was so much admired that the rich

people of Amsterdam sent to Turkey for more. From that time they grew to

be the rage, and it lasted for years. Single roots brought from one to

four thousand florins; and one bulb, the Semper Augustus, brought

fifty-five hundred."

"That's more than four hundred guineas of our money," interposed Ben.

"Yes, and I know I'm right, for I read it in a translation from

Beckman, only day before yesterday. Well, sir, it was great. Every one

speculated in Tulips, even the barge-men and rag-women, and

chimney-sweeps. The richest merchants were not ashamed to share the

excitement. People bought bulbs and sold them again at a tremendous

profit without ever seeing them. It grew into a kind of gambling. Some

became rich by it in a few days, and some lost everything they had.

Land, houses, cattle and even clothing went for Tulips when people had

no ready money. Ladies sold their jewels and finery to enable them to

join in the fun. Nothing else was thought of. At last the States-general

interfered. People began to see what geese they were making of

themselves, and down went the price of Tulips. Old tulip debts couldn't

be collected. Creditors went to law, and the law turned its back upon

them; debts made in gambling were not binding, it said. Then, there was

a time! Thousands of rich speculators reduced to beggary in an hour. As

old Beckman says, 'the bubble was burst at last.'"

"Yes, and a big bubble it was," said Ben, who had listened with great

interest. "By the way, did you know that the name Tulip came from a

Turkish word, signifying turban?"

"I had forgotten that," answered Lambert, "but it's a capital idea. Just

fancy a party of Turks in full head-gear, squatted upon a lawn--perfect

tulip bed! Ha! ha! capital idea!"

["There," groaned Ludwig to himself, "he's been telling Lambert

something wonderful about Tulips--I knew it!"]

"The fact is," continued Lambert, "you can conjure up quite a human

picture out of a tulip bed in bloom, especially when it is nodding and

bobbing in the wind. Did you ever notice it?"

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