CHAPTER VI

HIS MAJESTY THE SUN

"And therefore is the glorious planet, Sol,

In noble eminence enthron'd and spher'd

Amidst the ether, whose medicinable eye

Corrects the ill aspects of planets evil."

SHAKESPEARE.

Twelve years of open-air life in tropical Queensland persuade me that I

am entitled to prerogative of speech, not as an oracle or a prophet on

the prodigious subject of the weather at large, but of the effect thereof

on my sensations and constitution, since the greater part of that period

has been spent under conditions calculated to put them to the test.

Especially has the sun given penetrating tastes of his quality and

bestowed enduring marks of his favour. During these twelve joyful years

the annual rainfall has averaged over 131 inches, the average number of

days on which rain has fallen being 134. Of the heat of the sun during the

hottest month of the year let two unstudied records speak. As January 29,

1907, gave early promise of exceptional heat, I watched the thermometer

closely, noting the consistency with which its ups and downs tallied with

my perceptions These are the readings:

Deg.

6 a.m. 75

10 a.m. 94

Noon 96

12.30 p.m. 97

1 p.m. 98

3 p.m. 97

4 p.m. 88

5 p.m. 85

6 p.m. 82

In the sun at 1 p.m. the glass registered 108°, at 2 p.m. 110°, and

at 3 p.m. 107°. A thunderstorm accounted for the rather early

culmination of the temperature and its rapid decline.

The shade temperature of January, 1910, at 6.30 a.m. was 73°, at 3

p.m. 88°. The sun registered 98° on the hottest day of that month

when my diary tells me I took part in the erection of rough fencing,

horse-driving, and lifting and carrying logs.

This salubrious sun does not excuse man from day labour in unshaded

scenes. During January, I, who am blessed with but slight muscular

strength and no inherent powers of resistance to noontide flames, have

toiled laboriously without registering more than due fatigue. Those

accustomed to manual work experience but little inconvenience. It would

be palpably indiscreet and vain to say that outdoor work in excessive

heat involves no discomfort, but it may be truthfully asserted that

midday suspension therefrom, though pleasant, is not absolutely necessary,

at any rate where the environment is such as this.

Bounteous rain and glorious sunshine in combination might seem to

constitute a climate unsuitable to persons of English birth, or at least

trying to their preconceptions of the ideal. My own experience is

entirely, enthusiastically favourable. I proffer myself as an example,

since there is none other upon whom publicity may be thrust, and really

in the spirit of performing an inevitable duty, such duty being

comprehended in the fervent desire to proclaim from the lowly height of

my housetop how health unbought and happiness unrealisable may be enjoyed

in this delicately equable clime.

When I landed feebly on September 28, 1897, and crawled up on the beach

beyond the datum of the most recent high tide to throw myself prone on

the consoling sand I was worn, world-weary, and pale, and weighed 8 st. 4

lb. Now my weight is 10 st. 2 lb., and my complexion uniformly sun-tinted.

Perhaps it would be more exact to say that my uniform has been bestowed

by the sun, because having early discovered the needlessness of

clothes--that "the body is more than raiment"--most of the apparel in

which civilisation flaunts was promptly discarded, and through the few

thin things retained the sun soon worked his will. Latterly while in the

open air I have abandoned the principal part of the superfluous remnant,

to the enjoyment of additional comfort and the increase of

self-complacency. As a final violation of my reserve be it proclaimed

that to the super-excellence of the air of the Island, to the tonic of the

sea, and to the graciousness of his Majesty the Sun--in whose radiance

have I gloried--do I owe, perhaps, salvation from that which tributary

friends in their meed of tenderness predicted--an untimely grave.

It is natural that those who live in cold climates and who wear for their

comfort clothing designed to exclude the air from all parts of the body

save the face should be steeped in conservatism; but the farther one

ventures from the chaste opinion of the world the less subserviency he

shows to customs and habits authoritative and relevant among

century-settled folk, and the more readily he adapts himself to his

environment the sooner does he become a true citizen of the country which

he has chosen. Preconceptions he must discard as unfit, if not fatal. He

is an alien until he learns to house, feed, and dress himself in

accordance with the inviolable laws which Nature prescribes to each and

every portion of her spacious and discordant realm.

Was I to remain fully clad and comfortless, or the reverse? The

indulgence of my sensations has brought about revolutionary changes of

costume and custom. Such changes were bound to react mentally, for are

they not merely the symbols of ideas? Once it was unseemly, if not

uncleanly, to perspire freely. Now the function is looked upon as

necessary, wholesome, and the sign of one's loyalty to the sun. The sun

compels thoughts. Daily, hourly does he exact homage and reign supreme

over mind, body, and estate. So commanding is his rule, so apparent his

goodwill, so speedy his punishment for sins of disobedience, so

influential his presence, that I have come to look up to him as the

transcendent manifestation of that power which ordains life and all

its privileges and abolishes all the noisesomeness of death. Alive,

he nourishes, comforts, consoles, corrects us. Dead, all that is mortal

he transforms into ethereal and vital gases. Obey him, and he blesses;

flout him, and you perish.

An old historian of sport quaintly expressed a correct theory as to the

virtue of profuse perspiration: "And when the hunters do their office

on horseback and on foot, they sweat often; then if they have any evil in

them it must come away in the sweating; so that he keep from cold after

the heat." So does the wise man in the tropics regard perspiration--not as

an offensive, certainly not as a pleasant function, but as one that is

really inevitable and conducive to cleanliness and health.

Can the man who swathes his body in ever so many separate, superimposed,

artificial skins, and who is careful to banish purifying air from contact

with him, save on the rare occasions of the bath, be as healthful as he

who furnishes himself with but a single superfluous skin, and that as

thin and penetrable as the laws which hold society together permit?

The play of the sterilising sun on the brown, moist skin is not only

tolerable but delightful--refreshing and purifying the body, while even

light cotton clothing saturated to the dripping stage with perspiration

represents the acme of discomfort, and if unchanged a good deal of the

actually unwholesome.

All the hotter hours of the day have I worked in the bush felling trees,

sawing and splitting logs, and adzing rough timber, the while November's

unclouded sun evaporated perspiration almost as speedily as it flowed

from high-pressure pores. There was no sensation of overheat, although

the arms might weary with the swinging of the heavy maul and the back

respond with aches to the stiffened attitude imposed by the adze.

Then at sundown to plunge into the tepid sea, to frolic and splash

therein, while the red light in the west began to pale and the pink and

silver surface of the ocean faded to grey; then to a vigorous soaping and

scrubbing in the shady creek, where the orange-tinted drupes of

pandanus-palms give to the cool water a balsamic savour; then, clad in

clean cotton, to the evening meal with a prodigious appetite; and to bed

at nine o'clock to sleep murmurlessly for eight hours--tell me if thus

you are not fitted for another day's toil in the sublimating sunshine!

A medical man on the staff of one of the earliest of European voyages in

the Pacific Ocean expressed the opinion that the "cutaneous disorders

which so generally affect the inhabitants in the neighbourhood of the

equator are caused by an acrimonious alteration of the humours brought on

by the great heat of these climates"; and he adds: "I have no doubt

that the constant action of the air and sun upon the skin of the people

who go continually naked contributes much to these maladies, and renders

them more obstinate." Though it would be presumptuous to pose as counsel

for the defence of his Majesty the Sun, one who is blessed with so many

of the privileges he bestows cannot ignore so scandalous albeit musty a

libel which time, the only dispassionate judge, has long since condemned

in respect of the generality of manhood. It is surprising, too, that

Byron, though he revelled in the sea, was also under a delusion as to the

more vitalising element, for he fancied the scorching rays to be

"impregnate with disease," whereas the sun, the sea, and, in lesser

degree, the torrid sand do actually represent "the spice and salt which

season a man," and are the elements whence are derived many of his

cleanest, superfine thoughts.

Kinship with his Majesty the Sun of the tropics is not to be claimed

offhand. The imperious luminary does not grant his letters-patent to all.

Very few does he permit to wanton in his presence without exacting

probation. He is a rare respecter of persons. Though there are faces,

like King Henry V.'s, which the sun will not condescend to burn,

sometimes he smites savagely. He makes of the countenances of his foes a

fry and of their bodies a comprehensive granulation. But if you find

favour in his eyes--in those discriminating, ruthless, sight-absorbing

glances which none may reciprocate--accept your privileges with a thrill

of chastened pride that you may bask in his presence and be worthy his

livery and of gladsome mind. The harpings of the sweet singer of Israel

could not have been more effectual in the dispersal of depression than

the steadfast beams of the sun supreme in tropic sky.

Let the sun scorch the skin and blister it until it peels, and scorches

and peels again, and scorches and peels alternately until, having no more

dominion over the flesh, it tinctures the very blood and transmutes mere

ruddiness to bronze. Thereafter you know not for ever the pallor of the

street for have you not the gold of the sun in your blood and his iron

in your bones?

Of the graciousness of the sun a special instance has been preserved in

my erratic diary. Here it is: November 24, 1908: Spent from 10 a.m. to

1.15 p.m. on the beach and on the Isle of Purtaboi, bare-limbed,

bare-bodied, save for scant cotton pants. Above high-water mark the sand

was scorchingly hot to the feet. The heat of the glowing coral drift on

the Isle forced me promptly to amend my methodic gait to a quick step,

though my hardened soles soon became indifferent. Nutmeg pigeons were

nesting plentifully on trees and shrubs amongst masses of orchids, and on

ledges almost obscured by grass. Brown-winged terns occupied cool nooks

and crannies in the rocks, and other species of terns had egg

reserves--they cannot be called nests--on the unshaded coral bank. After

gazing intently on the white drift, eagerly making mental notes of any

remarkable mutations in the colouring of the thickly strewn eggs, and

admiring the fortitude or indifference with which the fledglings endured

the sizzling heat, I found myself subject to an optical illusion, for

when I looked up and abroad the brightly gleaming sea had been changed to

inky purple, the hills of the mainland to black. Though absolutely

cloudless, the sky seemed oppressed with slaty gloom, and the leaves of

the trees near at hand assumed a leaden green. For a few seconds I was

convinced that some almost unearthly meteorological phenomenon, before

which the most resolute of men might cower, had developed with

theatrical suddenness. Then I realised that the intense glare of the

coral, of which I had been unconscious, and the quivering heat rays had

temporarily deprived my vision of appreciation of ordinary tints.

Saturated by vivid white light, my bemused sight swayed under temporary

aberration. I was conscious of illusion creating symptoms, tipsy with

excess of sunshine. This condition passing, I found the atmosphere,

though hot, pleasant and refreshing, the labour of rowing across the

bay involving no unusual exertion or sense of discomfort. During my

brief absence the beach of the island seemed to have absorbed still

more effectively solar rays. "Scoot" (my terrier, exulting companion

on land and sea) skipped in sprightly fashion across the burning zone,

while I was fain to walk on the grass, the sandy track being impracticable

to bare feet. In the house protests against the intolerance of the sun

were rife. Crockery on the kitchen shelves seemed to have been

artificially heated, while the head of an axe exposed to the glare was

blisteringly hot. Yet to me in the open air, most scantily draped and

wearing a frayed, loopholed, and battered straw hat, the sunbath had

been a pleasant and exhilarating indulgence in no way remarkable on the

score of temperature.

Dress, other than fulfils the dictates of decency, is not only

unimportant but incongruous and vexatious. During bright but cloudless

days the less worn the higher the degree of comfort, and upon comfort

happiness depends. Sick of a surfeit of pleasures, the whining monarch,

counselled by his soothsayers, ransacked his kingdom for the shirt

of a happy subject. He found the enviable man--a toil-worn hind who had

never fidgeted under the discomfort of the badge of respectability.

In his native state the black fellow is nearer the ideal than the white

alien in his body clothes, starched shirt, high collar, cloth suit, and

felt hat. The needs and means of the black are non-existent. His dress

corresponds, whereas the white usurper of his territory--servile to the

malignant impositions of custom and fashion--suffers from general

superfluity and winces under his sufferings. Would he not be wiser owning

subservience to the sun, and adopting dress suitable to actual needs and

the dominant characteristics of the land of the sun? He would pant less,

drink less, perspire less, be more wholesome and sweeter in temper, and

more worthy of citizenship under the sun, against whose sway there can

be no revolt. Kings and queens are under his rule and governance. His

companionship disdains ceremonious livery, scorns ribbands, and scoffs at

gew-gaws. Bronze is his colour, native worth the only wear.

Whosoever has seen (himself unseen) an unsophisticated North Queensland

black parading his native strand has seen a lord of creation--an inferior

species, but still a lord. His bold front, fluent carriage, springy step,

alert, confident, superior air proclaim him so, innocent though he be of

the frailest insignia of civilisation. The monarch arrayed in seven

colours ascends the steps of his throne with no prouder mien than that in

which the naked child of the sun lords it over the empty spaces.

In civility to his Majesty the Sun do I also proudly testify to his

transcendent gifts as a painter in the facile media which here prevail.

Look upon his coming and his going--an international, universal property,

an ecstatic delight, an awesome marvel, upon which we gaze, of which we

cannot speak, lacking roseate phrases. A landscape painter also is he,

for have I not seen his boldest brush at work and stood amazed at the

magnificence of his art?

Do those who live in temperate and cold climates realise the effect of

the sun's heat on the sea--how warm, how hot, blessed by his beams, the

water may become? The luxuriousness of bathing in an ocean having a

temperature of 108° is not for the multitude who crowd in reeking cities

which the sun touches tremulously and slantwise.

On November 21, 1909 (far be it from me to bundle out into an apathetic

world whimpering facts lacking the legitimacy of dates), we bathed at

Moo-jee in shallow water on the edge of an area of denuded coral reef

fully two miles long by a mile broad. For three hours a considerable

portion of the reef had been exposed to the glare of the sun, and the

incoming tide filched heat, stored by solar rays, from coral and stones

and sand. The first wallow provoked an exclamation of amazement, for the

water was several degrees hotter than the air, and it was the hottest

hour (3 p.m.) of an extremely hot day. No thermometer was at hand to

register the actual temperature of the water, but subsequent tests at the

same spot under similar conditions proved that on the thermometerless

occasion the sea was about 108° F.--that is, the surface stratum of about

one foot, which averaged from 4° to 6° F. hotter than the air. Beneath,

the temperature seemed ordinary--corresponding with that of the water a

hundred yards out from the shore. This delectable experience revealed that

in bathing something more is comprehended than mere physical pleasure. It

touched and tingled a refined aesthetic emotion, an enlightened

consciousness of the surroundings, remote from gross bodily sensations.

For the time being one was immersed, not in heated salt water only but in

the purifying essence of the scene--the glowing sky, stainless, pallid,

and pure; the gleaming, scarcely visible, fictitious sea and the bold blue

isles beyond; the valley whence whiffs of cool, fern-filtered, odorous

air issued shyly from the shadowed land of the jungle through the

embowered lips of the creek. The blend of these elements reacted on the

perceptions, rendering the bathe in two temperatures that of a lifetime

and a means also whereby the clarified senses were first stimulated and

then soothed. With an occasional lounge on the soft sand, when the body

became clad in a costume of mica spangles and finely comminuted shell

grit, the bathe continued for two hours, with an after effect of sleek

and silky content.

Another date (January 10, 1910) may verify details of such a sybaritic

soak in the sea as is to be indulged in only in the tropics and remote

from the turmoil of man. Between noon and 3 p.m. the thermometer hanging

on the wall of the house under the veranda, five feet from the corrugated

iron roof, wavered between 89° and 90°, while the unshaded sun registered

98°. My noontide bath failed to detect any difference in temperature

between air and water, and putting my perceptions to scientific test

found the sea to be heated to 90°. With the bulb buried in the sand six

feet from the edge of the water, the mercury rose to 112° in a few

seconds and remained stationary.

It being far more blissful to lounge in the sea than on the veranda, I

sat down, steeped chin deep in crystal clearness, warmth, and silence,

passively surrendering myself to a cheap yet precious sensation. Around

me were revealed infinitely fragile manifestations of life, scarcely less

limpid than the sea, sparkling, darting, twisting--strong and vigorous of

purpose. Tremulous filaments of silver flashed and were gone. No space

but was thickly peopled with what ordinarily passes as the invisible, but

which now, plainly to behold, basked and revelled in the blaze--products

of the sun. Among the grains of sand and flakes of mica furtive

bubblings, burrowings, and upheavals betrayed a benighted folk to whom

the water was as a firmament into which they might not venture to ascend.

Sought out by the sun, translucent fish revealed their presence by

spectral shadows on the sand, and, traced by the shadows, became

discernible, though but little the more substantial.

This peace-lulled, beguiling, sea, teeming with myriad forms scintillating

on the verge of nothingness--obscure, elusive, yet mighty in their wayward

way--soothed with never so gentle, so dulcet a swaying. This

smooth-bosomed nurse was pleased to fondle to drowsiness a loving mortal

responsive to the blissfulness of enchantment. Warm, comforting,

stainless, she swathed me with rose-leaf softness while whispering

a lullaby of sighs. Her salty caresses lingered on my lips, as I

gazed dreamily intent upon determining the non-existing skyline.

Yet, with no demarcation of the allied elements this rimless, flickering

moon, to what narrow zone, I pondered, is man restricted! He swims

feebly; if he but immerse his lips below the shining surface for a space

to be measured by seconds, he becomes carrion. On the mountain-tops he is

deadly sick. Thus musing, the sorcery of the sea became invincible. My

thoughts drifted, until I dozed, and dozing dreamt--a vague,

incomprehensible dream of floating, in some purer ether, some diviner air

than ever belonged to wormy earth, and woke to realities and a skate--a

little friendly skate which had snoodled beside me, its transparent

shovel-snout half buried in the sand. Immune from the opiate of the sea,

though motionless, with wide, watery-yellow eyes, it gazed upon me as a

fascinated child might upon a strange shape monstrous though benign, and

as I raised my hand in salutation wriggled off, less afraid than curious.

Beyond, a shadow--a disc-shaped shadow--drifted with a regular pulsating

motion. Shadowlike, my thoughts, too, drifted, but how remote from the

scene! They transported me to Thisbe--Thisbe who

"Saw the lion's shadow ere himself

And ran dismayed away."

How different the shadow of the moment from that of the king of beasts

which led to the tragedy under the walls of Babylon, where the blood of

the lovers dyed the mulberry red! It is the evidence of a bloodless thing,

a rotund and turreted medusa, the leader of a disorderly procession,

soundless and feeble as becomes beings almost as impalpable as the sea

itself. Shadows of fish exquisitely framed flit and dance. I see naught

but shadows, dim and thin, for I doze and dream again; and so fantastic

time, whose footfalls are beads and bubbles, passes, and grosser affairs

beckon me out of the sunlit sea.

Oh, great and glorious and mighty sun! Oh, commanding, majestical sun!

Superfine invigorator; bold illuminator of the dim spaces of the brain;

originator of the glow! which distils its rarest attars! Am I not thy

true, thy joyful knight? Hast thou not touched my toughened, unflinching

shoulders with the flat of thy burnished sword? Do I not behold its

jewelled hilt flashing with pearls and precious stones as thou sheathest

it for the night among the purple Western hills? Do I not hail its golden

gleams among the fair-barked trees what time each scented morn I milk

my skittish goats?

My Tropic Isle · 第 6 / 28 章