THE LADY NELSON ACCOMPANIES H.M.S. TAMAR TO MELVILLE ISLAND.
In the year 1824, the British Government determined to form a settlement
on the north coast of Australia in the vicinity of Melville Island, with
the object of opening up intercourse between that district and the Malay
coast. On account of the nearness of the place to Timor, it was believed
that some of the trade of the East Indies would be attracted to its
shores. For some time previously small vessels from New South Wales had
traded regularly with certain islands of the Indian Archipelago chiefly
in pearls, tortoise-shell and beche-de-mer.
In order to carry out the intentions of the Government, Captain James
Gordon Bremer left England in H.M.S. Tamar on February 27th, 1824, for
Sydney, where the establishment was to be raised. The Tamar brought a
number of marines who were to form part of the garrison for the proposed
settlement. Meanwhile, the authorities at Sydney had chartered the ship
Countess of Harcourt, Captain Bunn, in which to convey the settlers as
well as a detachment of officers and men, then quartered in the colony,
with their wives to Melville Island. After taking supplies on board, the
following were embarked in the Countess of Harcourt, Captain Barlow,
Lieutenant Everard, and twenty-four non-commissioned officers and men,
all of the Buffs. Dr. Turner, Royal Artillery; Mr. George Miller,
Commissariat Department; Mr. Wilson and Mr. George Tollemache,
Storekeepers. In all the Countess of Harcourt carried 110 men, 40 women,
and 25 children.
The colonial brig Lady Nelson, in command of Captain Johns, also received
orders to accompany the expedition. She had returned from a voyage to
Moreton Bay on August 12th, and, heavily laden with passengers, soldiers,
and stores, sailed with the Tamar and the Countess of Harcourt on August
24th, 1824.
The Lady Nelson then left Sydney for the last time.
In reading Captain J. Gordon Bremer's logbook, we are reminded of a
similar voyage, taken by the Lady Nelson along this coast twenty-two
years before, in company with H.M.S. Investigator. Captain Bremer had the
same trouble with the brig as Captain Flinders then experienced, as he
was continually forced to wait for the Lady Nelson. In the Captain's log
often appear the entries "took the Lady Nelson in tow," and "cast off the
Lady Nelson," showing that the little brig was unable to keep up with the
larger vessels. The fleet sailed between the Great Barrier Reef and the
mainland, at times only a narrow strip of coral separating it from the
breakers, which rolled against the outer side of the reef. At other times
it was impossible to see across the great breadth of the coral barrier.
On the 28th of August, Mount Warning was passed and the ships skirted
Moreton Island in remarkably fine weather, which by the 1st of September
turned very hot. The vessels continued to sail near the coast, and
steered between two rocks called Peak* (* Now Perforated Island.) and
Flat Island and the main. During the forenoon more rocky islands were
observed, with a few trees growing on the very top--their outline having
the appearance of a cock's comb. It was noticed that the water here was
streaked for many miles with a brown scum supposed to be fish-spawn. At
evening one of the Cumberland Islands, named Pure Island, provided an
anchorage for the three ships; possibly the Lady Nelson alone had been in
these waters previously, and it will be remembered, that it was
hereabouts she had parted with the Investigator in the expedition of
1802. On September 6th, Cape Grafton was made, and as the ships coasted
the land, the smoke of the native fires were seen on shore. At 9 o'clock
on the 7th the ships passed Snapper Island and then Cape Tribulation, and
at 6 P.M. anchored near Turtle Reef opposite to the mouth of Endeavour
River.* (* Cooktown.) At 10 o'clock next morning Cape Flattery came into
sight. Some of the ships' company landed on one of the Turtle Islands,
further northwards, to examine it, and it was found to be formed of coral
and shells. This night, "a fine moonlight night," the sailors spent in
fishing, and several fish, marked with beautiful colours, were caught.
Noble Rock or Island was seen next day, when the vessels came to an
anchorage close to an island of the Howick Group. At evening, a very
large native fire, a mile in extent, was seen on the mainland. On
Saturday, September 11th, Cape Melville and the cluster of islands known
as Flinders Group was passed. At this time sand banks surrounded the
ships on all sides. They anchored in 14 degrees south latitude and next
day ran through the islands known as Saxe Coburgs Range, and came to
about 6 o'clock off Cape Direction. A fine run made by the vessels on the
13th, left Forbes and Sunday Islands behind, and they were brought to at
night under one of the Bird Islands. At 4 o'clock on the 14th the
Commander first saw Cape York, and at 5 o'clock anchored under Mount
Adolphus. Some of the company went on shore in the evening, but met none
of the natives, though traces of their visits were observed. Next day at
9 o'clock, Wednesday and Thursday Islands as well as numerous other
islands lying to the north-east of the Gulf of Carpentaria were passed.
At 2 o'clock on September 17th, the west head of the Gulf of Carpentaria
was seen; on the 19th the vessels reached Croker's Island, and anchored
on the 20th at Port Essington. The Captain's log contains this entry on
that day: "Took possession of the north coast of New Holland; and
Lieutenant Roe buried a bottle containing a copy of the form of taking
possession--and several coins of His Majesty--on a low sandy point
bearing east from the ship which was named Point Record."* (* Captain's
log, H.M.S. Tamar, Public Record Office.)
The following account of the proceedings was published in the Sydney
Gazette:--
"The north coast of New Holland, or Australia, contained between the
meridian of 129 and 135 degrees East of Greenwich with all the bays,
rivers, harbours, creeks, therein and all the islands laying off were
taken possession of in the name and right of His most Excellent Majesty,
George the IV, King of Great Britain and Ireland, and His Majesty's
colours hoisted at Port Essington, on 20th September, 1824, and at
Melville and Bathurst Islands on 26th September, 1824, by James John
Gordon Bremer, Commander of the most Honourable Military order of the
Bath, Captain of H.M.S. Tamar and Commanding Officer of His Majesty's
Forces employed on the said coast.
"His Majesty's colonial brig, Lady Nelson, and the British ship Countess
of Harcourt in company.
"PORT COCKBURN,
"MELVILLE ISLAND,
"AUSTRALIA,
"September 26th, 1824."
During the stay of the ships at Port Essington, Captain Bremer sent boats
in every direction to search for fresh water, knowing that, unless it
were found, it would be impossible for the people to remain there
permanently. On the 21st of September at daylight four boats went to
examine the eastern shores. The soil on this side proved to be sandy and
interspersed with red sandstone rock, which, it was thought, contained
particles of iron. The trees were not very tall, and resembled those of
New South Wales. But no water was found. Next day the boats went
westward, and the search was still unsuccessful. On this side the country
was superior to that to the eastward; it was more open, and the trees
were of magnificent height.
To discover water now became the chief object of everybody. On Point
Record, a water-hole fenced round with bamboos was at last found. In it
was some thick water, which had a brackish taste, and it was thought that
this water-hole was the work of Malays, and not of the Australian
aborigines, of whom traces were observed in various places, though, as
yet, none had been seen. Captain Bremer described Port Essington as being
"one of the most noble and beautiful pieces of water that can be
imagined, having a moderate depth and a capability of containing a whole
navy in perfect security." The lack of fresh water was its drawback.* (*
It turned out afterwards that there was plenty of water and of good
quality, but unfortunately it was not then discovered.) As the season was
far advanced, the Commander decided to leave this beautiful bay and sail
to Apsley Strait, which divides Melville and Bathurst Islands.
On the 23rd the ships left Port Essington, and after making Cape Van
Diemen of the old charts entered the strait and on the 26th anchored off
Luxmore Head. On this day Captain Bremer went on shore and took formal
possession of Melville and Bathurst Islands on behalf of Great Britain.
On the 30th, Captain Bremer discovered a running stream on Melville
Island in a cove to the southward of the ships. The water fortunately was
fresh. The south-east point of the cove was pleasantly situated on a
slight rise, and was tolerably clear of timber and suitable for a
settlement. Captain Bremer therefore took the ships into it, and he gave
the cove the name of King's Cove, in honour of its discoverer, Captain
Phillip Parker King.
The point chosen as the settlement was called Point Barlow, after Captain
Barlow; and the part of the strait between Harris Island and Luxmore Head
where the ships anchored was named Point Cockburn, after Sir George
Cockburn, one of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty. The harbour
was not equal to Port Essington, as the entrance was intricate, and a
dangerous shoal, rendered perilous by the rapid tides, extended some
miles distant from the land. It was formed by the shores of Bathurst
Island, as well as of Melville Island. To the northernmost point of
Bathurst Island Captain Bremer gave the name of Cape Brace.
On October 1st, parties were landed on Point Barlow to clear the ground
and to lay the foundation of a fort, for it was believed that the Malays,
who fished annually in these waters, would soon come in great numbers,
and hostility was also expected from the aborigines. A fort, therefore,
was constructed so as to command the whole anchorage, and when finished
it was possible to fire a shot from it on to Bathurst Island. In its
building, timber of great solidity was used. On it were mounted two
9-pounder guns and four 18-pounder carronades, with a 12-pounder boatgun,
which could be shifted as the occasion required. These were supplied by
H.M.S. Tamar.
The boat-gun was fitted so that it could be placed on board the Lady
Nelson, whenever it should be necessary to detach her to the neighbouring
islands. Round the fort there were soon built comfortable cottages for
the settlers, and, when completed, they gave the place the air of a
village. The fort was rectangular, and within the square were erected
barracks for the soldiers, and houses, the frames of which had been
brought from New South Wales. The climate was found to be "one of the
best between the tropics," particularly at dawn, "when," says Captain
Bremer, "nothing can be more delightful than this part of the twenty-four
hours." In spite of many mangrove swamps that existed there, much of the
soil on Melville Island was excellent, and in it the plants brought in
the ships flourished luxuriantly; they included the orange, lemon, lime,
and banana. Melons and pumpkins sprang up immediately, and maize was
"upon ground" on the fourth day after it was sown. The native forests
were almost inexhaustible, producing most, if not all, the tropical
fruits and shrubs of the Eastern Islands, chief among them a sort of
cotton tree, a species of "lignum vitae," and the bastard nutmeg.
While Captain Bremer explored the country, the work at the settlement was
carried out without loss of time. On the 8th of October a pier, for the
purpose of landing provisions and guns, was begun, next a Commissariat
store; and by the 20th the pier, bastion, and sea face of the fort were
completed. Captain Bremer writes, "I had the satisfaction of hoisting His
Majesty's colours under a royal salute from the guns mounted on Fort
Dundas, which I named in honour of the noble Lord and the Head of the
Admiralty."