THE LADY NELSON RETURNS TO EXPLORE BASS STRAIT: VISITS JERVIS BAY AND
WESTERN PORT.
Governor King, in addition to ordering Grant to return and survey the
deep bay which he had passed in Bass Strait between Cape Sir William
Grant and Wilson's Promontory, instructed him to ascertain the correct
latitude of the promontory and of the islands lying off it. He was also
told to survey King Island, then to sail to King George's Sound and, in
returning to Wilson's Promontory, to make a general survey of the whole
of the south coast, going to the head of every inlet as far as possible.
Dr. Bass, when discovering Bass Strait, had rounded the promontory and
entered a harbour which, as Grant has told us, he named from its relative
situation--Western Port. In his journal Grant says that it was reserved
for the Lady Nelson to ascertain accurately the extent of Bass Strait,
but he did not carry out the whole of King's instructions on this second
voyage although his examinations of Jervis Bay and of Western Port proved
of great value and added much to the knowledge of both harbours.
Besides Ensign Barrallier, Mr. Caley, botanist, four soldiers of the New
South Wales Corps and two natives (Euranabie and his wife Worogan) went
with the expedition, and Mr. John Murray joined the ship as first mate*
(* Formerly Master's Mate on board H.M.S. Porpoise.). The Bee, of 15
tons, formerly a ship's launch, was also fitted out to accompany her.
The two ships left Port Jackson on March 8th, Lieutenant Grant
particularly wishing to make the examination of Jervis Bay* (* Jervis
Bay, named in honour of John Jervis, Lord St. Vincent, was discovered by
Lieutenant Richard Bowen in 1791.) on his way southwards in order "to
secure a harbour" if obliged to run out of Bass Strait. The Bee, however,
did not stay long with the Lady Nelson. On the morning of the 9th the
Master hove to and informed Grant that he had shipped much water and that
the sea was too heavy for him. Before sending the vessel back to Port
Jackson Grant wrote a letter to the Governor at Sydney stating the reason
of her return. He placed the letter between two flat pieces of lead, and
running close to the Bee threw it on board. The Lady Nelson then
continued her voyage, and at 4 P.M. on the 10th sighted the north head of
Jervis Bay bearing west-south-west 8 or 9 miles distant. At seven o'clock
on the following morning the first mate was sent in the boat to look for
an anchorage, and returned at nine with one of the natives, bringing the
information that there was good holding ground in the southernmost cove
between an island and the main. At half-past ten the Lady Nelson anchored
in this cove in four fathoms water, fine sandy bottom, having run over a
shallow some four cables' length which was easily distinguished by the
colour of the water. The native who came on board was a middle-aged man,
stout and muscular, who showed no symptoms of fear. It was evident that
he had seen white men before and he often repeated the words "blanket"
and "woman."
Grant tells us that he was much surprised at several articles on board
particularly the compasses in the binnacle. "On my conducting him down
into the cabin and placing him before a looking-glass he expressed wonder
by innumerable gestures, attitudes and grimaces. He narrowly examined it
to see if any one was behind it; and he did not seem satisfied till I
unscrewed it from the place it was fastened to. The sound of a small
bugle horn had a very great effect on him, and he endeavoured, by
applying it to his own mouth, to make it sound, but without effect...This
stranger whom I had placed near the natives of Sydney, sat by them,
without saying a word, for about half an hour, soon after the expiration
of which time, great familiarity took place betwixt them. It appeared
evident to me that...the stranger's attention was directed to the woman,
though like the rest of her countrywomen, she was, according to our
notions, far from being possessed of any beauty: however, not only this
man, but many other natives who visited us at this place, thought her
very handsome; nor was I surprised at this when I saw some of the females
here...It appeared as if they did not readily understand each other...
"Before we got to an anchor several canoes came round us, in one of which
was an old man whose hair had become perfectly white with age, which,
joined to his long white beard, made him a very interesting figure. The
natives appeared to pay the old man great respect and obedience of which
I saw more afterwards...I admitted some of the natives on board but the
old man could not be prevailed on to be of the party. They all testified
much surprise at what they saw."
The natives of Jervis Bay seemed to be stronger and more athletic than
those at Sydney, and in the management of their canoes--they differed
from any Grant had ever seen, "particularly in paddling, sometimes making
use of an oval piece of bark, and at others, of their hands, sending the
canoe along very swiftly by either means. When paddling with the hand
they were apt to throw more or less water into the canoe, which, with a
small calabash, they dexterously threw out by a backward motion of the
other hand without turning their heads." At one end of their canoes he
observed two or three wooden pins which he thought were designed to
steady their fish-gigs or to receive the heads of their spears.
He tells how the sailors clipped their beards: "From observing the
smoothness of our chins, they all expressed a desire to have theirs the
same, which some of my people instantly set about, clipping them close
with scissors. Not seeing any of these people painted, I was desirous of
knowing if they were addicted to it. I accordingly got some red paint
which as soon as one of them saw, he immediately made signs for me to rub
his nose with it. About our settlements they are often seen with their
noses painted with a red gum. They likewise form a circle nearly round
their eyes with a whitish clay. The latter, it is said, is by way of
mourning for the death of a friend...The women also paint their noses
red, and their breasts with a streak of red and white alternately. Having
occasion to leave the deck for a while, one of my young men (who had
contrived to get hold of some of the vessel's paint pots) very
deliberately painted the man (whose nose I had rubbed with red paint)
with different colours from head to foot while he grinned his approbation
at his own motley appearance. His comrades seemed to enjoy it as much as
he did and they quitted the vessel in great glee."
"The Lady Nelson lay abreast of a fine sandy beach suitable for hauling
the seine, and the commander's party, which included Mr. Barrallier and
the Sydney native, went on shore. A number of blacks immediately
surrounded Euranabie and began to converse with him, using many words
that seemed to resemble the Sydney dialect, such as 'Bail,' which Grant
says signified 'No,' and 'Maun' to take off or carry away. These natives,
when the seine was hauled, showed their delight by gathering round and
giving their assistance unsolicited. A few large whiting were caught, and
except three that were kept back for the white party, were distributed
among them.
"Shortly afterwards, other natives arrived who also wished to have some
fish, so the nets were cast a second time, and the whole of the catch was
handed to them without division."
Their number was so considerable that it was believed that many more were
concealed in the bushes...They were all perfectly naked except one young
fellow who had a bunch of grass fastened round his waist which came up
behind like the tail of a kangaroo. He was very merry, and from his
gestures, possessed a keen sense of humour. "He would throw himself into
a thousand antic shapes, and afforded no small entertainment."
"Having sent the boat on board with the seine," continues Grant, "I was
anxious to get some kangaroos which, from the appearance of the shore, I
made no doubt were to be found in plenty. I made signs to the natives for
that purpose, and one of them offered his services. We walked towards the
end of the beach we were then on, and entered the woods. We saw several
parrots and smaller birds of beautiful plumage. Mr. Barrallier fired at
one of the latter, which so frightened our guide that he took to his
heels and ran back to his companions."
In this excursion the explorers were impressed by the silent grandeur of
the forest trees: there was no underwood, but there was excellent grass,
from which sprang coveys of quail, or partridges of New Holland.
The trees in general were the tall she-oak so common in the neighbourhood
of Sydney.* (* Casuarina suberosa, commonly known as Beefwood.) Grant
returned to the beach and went on board to dinner. In the afternoon he
again made a party for the shore, consisting of Mr. Barrallier, Mr.
Caley, botanist, and two soldiers. They entered the woods at the same
place as before, intending to make a circuit back to the boat. Again,
beautiful birds were seen, among them, some cockatoos which were
perfectly black "excepting the breast and a few feathers on the wing
which were yellow." They were so shy that no one could get near them.
Other birds were killed--whose flesh, when cooked, was very palatable;
that of the parrot resembled our pigeon in taste--"possibly because they
feed on seeds of wild plants."
According to Grant, "no country in the world abounds with a greater
variety of insects. We saw numbers buzzing about the trees...Having
pursued our walk inland we fell in with a swampy land in a valley with
much brush wood; a rivulet of excellent fresh water ran briskly through
it, emptying itself in the sea near to where I had ordered our boat to
haul the seine. We found the track of the natives and fell in with
several of their gunnies or habitations. These are constructed with a few
boughs stuck up to screen them from the wind; bones of beasts, birds and
fish were lying about them. On the return to the boat, Mr. Barrallier
shot a large hawk. Our fishing-party had caught some fish, and would have
been very successful, but two sharks got into the seine and tore it in
several places: they were both brought on shore, one measuring seven feet
in length. The liver I ordered to be carried on board, to be boiled for
the oil and used in our lamp.
"On the 11th of March, the wind still hanging to the south, I took some
hands on shore to cut a boatload of wood and fill our water
casks...Messieurs Barrallier and Caley, with two soldiers, accompanied me
on another excursion. We took another direction inland...but saw no
kangaroos. We met with two small lagoons and several streams of good
water running through the thickest part of the woods. In this excursion
we saw the Laughing Bird so called from the noise it makes resembling
laughter.* (* The Giant Kingfisher or Kookaburra.)
"On our return to the boat we fell in with a spot of ground which
appeared to have been selected by the natives for the purposes of
festivity. It was a small eminence having no habitation near. We counted
the marks of fifteen different fires that had been employed in cooking
fish and other eatables, the bones of which were strewed about. Among
them we picked up part of a human skull--the os frontis with the sockets
of the eyes and part of the bones of the nose still attached to it. A
little distance from where we found this we discovered a part of the
upper jaw with one of the molars or back teeth in it, also one of the
vertebrae of the back having marks of fire which the others had not.
"The grass was much trodden down, and many of the bones of the animals
eaten appeared fresh...I brought off the human bones and on getting on
board showed them to Euranabie. Finding two of the natives from the shore
in the vessel, I desired him to ask them whether these bones belonged to
a white man or not, and if they had killed and eaten him. I was anxious
to have this cleared up, as the ship Sydney Cove from India to Port
Jackson had been wrecked about twelve months before to the southward and
it was reported that some of the crew were killed by the natives near
this place."* (* The Sydney Cove from Bengal to New South Wales was
wrecked on Preservation Island, Tasmania, on 8th February, 1797. Her
long-boat was equipped and despatched on 27th February to Sydney, but the
boat filled and went to pieces at a spot called Ninety Mile beach. Out of
the crew of seventeen, who started to walk to Port Jackson, only three
lived to reach their destination--some dying of fatigue and hunger, the
others were murdered by the natives.)
Euranabie, who spoke English, made inquiries, and a soldier who
understood the Sydney dialect, also endeavoured to extract the truth
regarding the bones, from the two black fellows, who said that they were
those of a white man that had come in a canoe from the southward where
the ship "tumble down," meaning that it had been wrecked. Lieutenant
Grant also questioned Worogan, and was informed that "the bush natives
(who appeared to be a different tribe of people from those that lived by
the seaside) did eat human flesh."
He now prepared to leave the port. "On the 12th, we got into a clean
berth for getting under weigh, but in the morning the wind being variable
and light we were prevented sailing. I went on shore with Mr. Barrallier
to make a survey of the cove we were lying in. When preparing to return
to the vessel we were joined by several natives who appeared anxious to
go on board with us. Two of these were strangers who signified that they
had come a long way to see us and that they were very hungry. They were
both young, stout men with longer hair than the natives generally.
"In the afternoon...it was needless to attempt sailing till the wind
abated. I therefore proposed to survey...the western side of the island
which lies in the mouth of the harbour and shelters the cove from
easterly winds. This island I named Ann's Island, in compliment to Mrs.
King, the wife of the Governor.
"In putting the surveying instruments into the boat the chain was found
missing; we were of opinion it had been left on shore by the soldiers who
carried it in measuring the distances. A boat with one of them was sent
on shore. After a fruitless search they were returning when a canoe put
off from the island with a man in it who held up the chain in his hand.
The boat's crew brought him on board to me. On looking at the chain it
was made up in the usual way...and tied with a piece of string; but in
undoing it I found that the natives had untwisted every bend of the wires
which contained the brass markers and after taking them off bent the
wires back into their original form, with this difference, that they
placed the end which is carried in the hand in the middle. This was the
first instance I had experienced of their pilfering anything and I did
not chuse to proceed to extremities. I gave the native a blanket and some
biscuits and the mate gave him an old hat.
"We got into the boat to prosecute the intention of surveying the
island...the native with us, towing his canoe astern. On landing we were
joined by a great number of natives who seemed glad that the man had been
rewarded for carrying back the chain. The blanket attracted their notice
much, the use of which they appeared to know. The old man whom I formerly
mentioned was among them; he made signs for me to sit down at a distance
from the rest and by pointing to his white beard signified a wish to have
it cut off, which I immediately did with a pair of scissors, and he
expressed much satisfaction at being rid of it."
Observing some of their women in the distance and wishing to see what
they were like, signs were made to the old man to ask them to come
nearer. He called to them, whereupon they seated themselves close to the
visitors. They seemed nervous as the white men approached them, but when
the old chief spoke to them sat down again composedly. One of them had
fastened to the neck of her child a brass marker which had been taken
from the stolen chain. Grant says: "They examined my buttons and the head
of my dirk and seemed much surprised at my watch chain which I began to
think they had an inclination for, but I was soon relieved on pulling out
my watch. They did not seem to like it and talked very gravely among
themselves; they were all anxious to listen to the noise of the watch,
yet they would pull their ear from it and look at the watch with symptoms
of fear...and then return to it again. I attempted to point out the use
of it and pointed to the sun, but I am led to think that they believed it
to be something we worshipped. The old man particularly pointed to the
sun and appeared anxious to know more of it."
A boy about twelve years of age who was a little deformed, carried a
sharp pointed stick in his hand which was the only weapon of defence seen
but it was soon perceived that they had weapons not far distant. The Lady
Nelson's commander by signs told the chief that he wanted fresh water.
"The old native readily understood and getting up made me follow him to
the side of a hill where some water had settled, but it not appearing to
be from a spring, I expressed my desire to be taken to a rivulet. A
native stept forward, as I supposed, to show me, but on my following him
he turned back and left us. Thinking from the direction we were in that
water was not far distant I took one of my men with me to whom I gave my
fowling-piece to carry...We saw another native a little way before us to
whom I signified what I wanted." As Grant approached, this native, by a
sudden jerk of the foot, raised and caught up in his hand a spear; the
weapon rose within six inches of the Lieutenant's face and caused him to
turn and grasp his gun from his attendant. The native, however, merely
put the spear on his shoulder and walking leisurely towards a cliff stood
looking at the sea. It was not supposed anything hostile was meant but
the action showed that the natives had weapons concealed.
"At 5 A.M. of the 13th, we weighed anchor with light variable airs and
got clear out of the cove by ten, when we found a moderate breeze from
north-east, and we made all possible sail to the southward."
Grant then gives his opinion of Jervis Bay, a place destined to be much
more important in the future of the continent, as it will serve as port
to Canberra, the seat of the Australian Government. "It is worthy of
remark that Jarvis's Bay* (* i.e. Jervis Bay.) or sound is large,
commodious and easy of access, affording shelter from all winds and
having room for upwards of 200 sail of ships with plenty of wood and
water. When this bay comes to be more known, it will be found eligible
for vessels bound to Port Jackson after a long passage from England...and
will be the means of saving many lives."
From Jervis Bay the Lady Nelson continued her voyage southwards and, on
the 19th of March, off Point Hicks, she met with a strange sail which
proved to be the ship Britannia, Captain Turnbull, from England, bound
for the whale fishery. She was going to Sydney to refit, and thus gave
Grant an opportunity to send a letter to Governor King. He wrote as
follows:
POINT HICKS, NORTH BY EAST 12 MILES.
"18th March, 1801.
"SIR,--Seeing a vessel to windward, and judging you would wish to hear of
us...I sit down to write you a few lines before she joins us, as I
suppose she is bound to Sydney, and from her situation, I presume she is
one more who has come through the Straits. The Bee, no doubt, has arrived
long ere now. I, on the Tuesday morning after she parted, got safely into
Jarvis's Bay, and sailed early on Friday with the wind at the north-east
which only lasted 30 hours so that we have been nearly 5 days beating in
sight of Cape Howe and could not weather it, the wind being now south but
moderate.
"During our stay in Jarvis's Bay we were by no means idle, which you will
be convinced of, I hope, when we arrive. The weather I have had these 5
days convinces me that the Bee would have been a very great retard to
us...for the sea here, when it blows hard (owing, I presume, to the
current setting strong against the wind) makes it run confused and break
much...Mr. Barrallier has got nearly well of his seasickness and we have
had the azimuth compass to work, which he now understands thoroughly.
Murray is well, and all my people are comfortable and happy.--I am etc.
JAS. GRANT."
On their parting, the Britannia steered to Sydney, while the Lady Nelson
stood to the southward, meeting with a southerly wind and being so
retarded that it was 8 A.M. on the 21st before Wilson's Promontory was
sighted. When close to the rock which he had named Rodondo, Grant
observed the latitude to be south 39 degrees 4 minutes.* (* The latitude
of Wilson's Promontory is 39 degrees 7 minutes 55 seconds and the
longitude 146 degrees 25 minutes east. In the log, Lieutenant Grant gives
the former as 38 degrees 59 minutes and longitude 146 degrees 6 minutes
east.) From Wilson's Promontory, the land sloped to the north-north-west
as far as eye could reach, becoming low and level towards Cape Liptrap
and from Glennie's Islands. The Lady Nelson now followed the coast
towards Western Port. On the way her commander named a point Cape
Paterson in honour of Colonel Paterson of the New South Wales Corps.
He thus describes the manner of his coming to Western Port: "At 4 P.M. of
the 21st we had sight of the island which forms the south head of Western
Port having the likeness of a snapper's head or horseman's helmet. By
eight we were up with it. On opening the entrance of the port I found two
small islands situated about three quarters of a mile from the South Head
with apparently a good passage between them and the island forming the
harbour. From its likeness, as above mentioned, to a snapper's head, I
named it Snapper Island.* (* The Phillip Island of Bass which even at
that time was called Phillip Island, a name it is still known by. Its
eastern extremity resembled the head of a snapper and was known as
Snapper Head. Bass himself had, in discovering the Strait, noticed the
resemblance.) It falls in a high clay bluff down to the water's edge. The
small islands lying off it were covered with seals, numbers of which, on
our approach, precipitated themselves into the sea, covering the passage,
while others remained on the rocks making a very disagreeable noise,
something like the grunting of pigs. They were of a large size, many of
them being nearly equal to a bullock. I judged them to be of that species
of seal called by fishermen sea elephants, accordingly I named these
islands, Seal Islands. I sent a boat ahead to sound...and found between
the Seal Islands and the South Head, 12, 9, 6, 5 and 3 1/2 fathoms of
water which last was shoaled in mid channel. This passage will shorten
the distance when there is a leading wind but standing round to the
westward of Seal Islands there will be found sufficient room for any
number of vessels to beat in. Mr. Bass, when he visited this place in the
whale boat, entered the port by the eastern passage which is much the
smallest, and coasting the western shore, from whence he made his
remarks. It is probable that these islands, lying so close to the western
side of him, did not show themselves to be detached...It had rained
constantly and heavily all night and...we could not see any great
distance from the vessel therefore I kept the lead going as she worked up
the harbour."
At half-past five she was "brought to" opposite to a sandy point which he
named Lady Nelson's Point "as a memorial of the vessel as she was the
first decked one that ever entered this port...Mr. Barrallier went on
shore with the second mate. They saw black swans and redbills, an aquatic
bird so called whose back is black, breast white, beak red and feet not
fully webbed. On Sunday 22nd or, according to our sea account the 23rd at
noon, I went with two of our crew in the smallest boat to search for a
river or stream described by Mr. Bass."
In proceeding along the shore Grant passed a muddy flat, and fell in with
an island* (* The log says this island bore north-north-west, 2 miles.)
"separated from the main by a very narrow channel at low water."...On
this he landed. "The situation of it was so pleasant that this together
with the richness of the spot made me conceive the idea that it was
excellently adapted for a garden." The island was called Churchill's
Island after John Churchill, Esquire, of Dawlish, in the county of Devon,
who, when the Lady Nelson left England, had given her commander vegetable
seeds, the stones of peaches, and the pips of several sorts of apples,
telling him "to plant them for the future benefit of our fellow-men, be
they countrymen, Europeans or savages." Captain Schanck had also supplied
him with seeds. A very rare apple, having seldom more than one pip in
each fruit, was named by Grant "Lady Elizabeth Percy's Apple," because,
"it was owing to her Ladyship's care and attention in preparing the
pepins that I was enabled to introduce it."
On this day several good observations were obtained. Grant placed Western
Port in latitude 38 degrees 32 minutes south and (by chronometer) in 146
degrees 19 minutes east of Greenwich. He did not, however, discover the
stream for which he was looking. On the following morning the second mate
(Mr. Bowen) tried to find the stream but was also unsuccessful. During
his absence the Commander explored the banks of a creek "which opened
abreast of the vessel" and Barrallier and Murray surveyed the harbour
while Caley searched for new plants wandering as far as Snapper Island.
Barrallier and Grant also made collections but Governor King afterwards
wrote that "Caley received everything they found--and refused to give up
or part with a duplicate."
Wet weather set in until the 25th. The day following, search was again
made for fresh water, and Grant went up the creek which was found to
terminate in a salt marsh. The trees on the bank were not large but the
underwood was thick. He penetrated inland for some distance and saw spots
"as if cleared by manual labour...covered with good tender grass," a
delightful sight to him. The open land had the appearance of being
frequently overflowed and he thought it was well adapted for the purpose
of fattening cattle; numbers of black swans and other water-fowl were
seen in the creek, the length of which was about two miles and a half,
its waters, which were salt, ended in a small run some 12 feet in
breadth. It was Bowen, the second mate, who at length found the
fresh-water stream originally discovered by Bass, and on the same day he
captured a couple of cygnets one of which was presented to the Governor
at Sydney.
On 27th March, Murray accompanied by Barrallier and Caley set out to
explore the stream. They went up its windings as far as possible passing
no less than 42 short reaches. Its breadth at the entrance was about half
a cable's length and at the farthest part reached by the boat not more
than 18 or 20 feet, the passage being there impeded by trees lying across
it.
While his party were exploring, the commander with Euranabie made
excursions along the shore to the mouth of the harbour. "The beach was
covered with shells, many of them beautiful and some of them entirely new
to me. I observed another creek not so large as the former which I have
described but having its entrance quite filled up...so that the sea could
not enter it...the land in general was above the level of the sea and the
soil was in some places light and black, in others a red clay. We fell in
with a rocky point about which I observed playing in the water a number
of fishes called salmon in New Holland. I expressed a desire to the
native of having some...and no sooner expressed my wish than I missed my
companion from behind me. I halloed...upon which he instantly presented
himself from the wood with a small stick in his hand. Asking for my knife
he presently sharpened one end to a point and then, stripping himself, he
leaped from one point of the rock to another until he met with an
opportunity of striking a fish which he did, the stick penetrating right
through it. I could not but admire the keenness of his sight and his
ability to preserve the steadiness of his position, standing as he did on
the rough edge of a sharp rock, the sea washing above his knees, his eyes
intent on the fish, very difficult to strike from the smallness of its
size, presented to him in a narrow back. Though I pressed him to take the
fish several times he constantly refused it but accepted some tobacco."
Next day Grant went on shore at Churchill's Island with a party to clear
a space for a garden. Some twenty rods were burnt after the larger trees
had been felled. The soil on the island was found to be rich and loose
and easy to dig. On the 29th Murray was sent to ascertain particulars
"respecting the entrance of the port and with regard to Seal Islands" on
which he was instructed to land. Barrallier accompanied him. Soon after
their departure bad weather set in which prevented their landing. They
eventually anchored off a sandy beach which appeared to have no surf, but
were suddenly surprised by a heavy swelling sea that rolled upon it,
followed by another which filled the boat, upsetting it upon the beach.
Fortunately no lives were lost though all "were immersed in the water
from which the native Euranabie...first escaped to shore." The
provisions, however, and the ammunition were lost or spoiled. At turn of
tide they launched the boat and returned on board. A black swan and four
ducks, which they had shot on their way out, afforded a savoury meal for
those in the ship.
On the 31st the commander went up the freshwater river with Mr.
Barrallier.* (* This river had already been seen by Mr. Bowen.) At night
they encamped on its banks when there came on an exceeding heavy storm of
rain with thunder and lightning and high wind. They traced a branch of
the river on the right as far as their boat could go and then followed
its course on shore along the bank and found it was fed by the greater
river only. This carried them inland and they discovered marks of fires
made by the natives. The log book records that they met none of the
blacks at any place though there were native dog tracks in abundance.
"Towards the end of this branching stream the country appeared to afford
plots of very rich pasture. At some considerable distance the land rose
to a height, and being covered with large trees which appeared to have
been shattered by storms had for this reason obtained the name of Mount
Rugged. We marched pretty far inland and found the country everywhere
free from inundations and exhibiting a very picturesque appearance. The
day was remarkably fine but in the woods the air was close and
disagreeably sultry. My people had killed a small black snake...the same
kind...is common about Sydney. We pursued our course up the river and Mr.
Barrallier completed his survey."
The water in the river was found to be good and perfectly sweet, and the
casks were filled. Among the birds seen was a bell-bird which has "no
remarkable plumage but a note not unlike the tinkling of a bell, so that
when a number of these birds are collected together the noise they make
is similar to that made by the bells of a team of horses." The
laughing-bird (whose note can only be compared to the ha! ha! ha! of a
hearty laughing companion) was the first to salute the explorers in the
morning. The whistling duck, so called because of the whistling noise
made with its wings when flying, was shot here, and a grey parrot was
caught alive. Mr. Barrallier shot a rare cockatoo.* (* It was stuffed and
afterwards given to General Davies, R.A., by Governor King.) The wet
weather afterwards gave little chance of meeting with birds, and the
explorers made their way through the woods until they reached an
extensive level country. This plain extended out of their sight on the
one side and on the other was bounded by hills. Paths beaten down by
kangaroos crossed and recrossed it. The face of the country was almost
everywhere level and productive, free from swamp and secured from
inundation.
Grant thus describes the journey back to the ship: "We returned to the
river-side and ordered the boat to drop lower down a few miles through a
forest of stately timber trees. I had a few of them cut down and brought
on board...I brought Governor King specimens of light woods and a species
of sassafras discovered by my second mate...On our way down the river we
stopped at the place where we had passed the preceding night and found
our fire still burning. To this spot we gave the name of The Halfway
House, being halfway up the river."
The commander now revisited Churchill's Island: "I found my people had
cleared the spot I had laid out for a garden, and that there was nothing
wanting but to prepare the ground to receive such seeds as I should
choose to plant...It was no easy matter...for we had neither hoe nor
spade with us...however, we were in possession of a coal shovel which,
though it was thin and much worn, served the purpose.
"My men, who slept on the ground they had cleared...in a hut built for
the occasion, informed me that one of their comrades was awakened out of
his sleep by some animal that seemed to be gnawing his hair. He supposed
it to be the bandicoot rat. I sent on board for a dog which we had
brought with us from Sydney. This dog remained with the people on the
island, and, as they reported to me, was one night engaged with some
animal apparently of equal strength, for it brought him to the ground and
made him howl...The ground was now prepared and I sowed my several sorts
of seeds, wheat, Indian corn, and peas, some grains of rice and some
coffee berries; and I did not forget to plant potatoes. With the trunks
of the trees I felled I raised a block house of 24 feet by 12 which will
probably remain some years, the supporters being well fixed in the
earth."
Full of enthusiasm regarding his visit in general, Grant is more so about
Churchill's Island: "I scarcely know a place I should sooner call mine
than this little island." And he also tells how he planted the stones of
fruit trees round the hut which his men had built there. Of the traces of
iron seen, he adds: "We turned up a few stones and some interspersed with
veins of iron ore, indeed so rich in metal that they had a visible effect
on the needle of our compass; stones of a like kind are found about
Sydney." In the pages of his journal and also of his log he describes
very minutely the manner in which European seeds were first sown in the
soil of the British colony of Victoria. That they were successfully
planted we learn from a subsequent page in Murray's log when he, in
command of the Lady Nelson, visited the same spot.
To return to the narrative. "On the 12th* (* In the narrative, through a
printer's error, this date appears as 21st.) of April Mr. Bowen, while
seeking for water in the ship's launch, discovered near the mouth of the
freshwater river part of a canoe which had sunk near the mouth. He
brought it back to the ship together with two paddles and some fishing
line." The canoe differed greatly from those made by the natives of Port
Jackson, being framed out of timber, and instead of being tied together
at the ends "was left open, the space being afterwards filled with grass
worked up with strong clay."
At the termination of the voyage, it was handed over, along with the
other specimens collected, to Governor King.
The Lady Nelson now changed her berth and moored close by the opposite
shore, "in order to be near a small island lying in the opening of the
extensive arms described by Mr. Bass of which this port has two branching
out to the northward." Grant named this island Margaret Island in honour
of Mrs. Schanck who had given him several articles which proved useful on
board the Lady Nelson.
The tide ebbing very fast, the brig was soon in shoal water, but the
bottom being a soft mud and the weather calm there was no danger to be
apprehended, yet, says Grant: "As I am no friend to vessels being on the
ground by carrying out a hawser I soon hauled her off and brought yet her
nearer to Margaret's Island. We found this island to be in general flat,
but well covered with wood. Here we deposited some seeds but did not find
the soil equally rich with that of Churchill's Island." Having lost some
of their drinking water, the Commander writes: "Luckily I heard the
bullfrog, which is common in New South Wales, and I made towards the
thicket from whence his croaking issued and there found a present supply.
This arm reminded me of the appearance of Porchester Lake when the tide
is out. Indeed the entire view of Western Port has no small resemblance
to Spithead and Portsmouth Harbour. On the 17th we got under weigh and at
night brought up in 12 fathoms water with rather a foul bottom. In the
morning we discovered a sand shoal whereon the waves were breaking very
heavily close to us...We shifted our berth and brought up in a small nook
or bay which I named Elizabeth Cove in honour of Miss Elizabeth King,
daughter of Governor King, then at Sydney." The greater part of Grant's
survey of Western Port was completed by April 22nd, but the Lady Nelson
was detained there by bad weather until the 29th, when, at break of day,
she weighed and stood out of the port, passing to the westward of Seal
Islands.
Grant then proceeded to make a survey of the coast from Western Port
eastward as far as Wilson's Promontory, which he says he carried out for
a distance of seventy miles, but winter being now advanced little more
could be done in the way of surveying, and as the wet weather was
prejudicial to the instruments, he resolved to make the best of his way
to Sydney; bad weather caused the ship to put into Botany Bay, but she
eventually arrived on May 14th, 1801.
On his return to Sydney Grant refers to the good health of those on
board: "I had not from the time of my departure a sick man among my
ship's company, one man only excepted, whose skull had been fractured."
He also tells us that while in Botany Bay he had the satisfaction of
receiving a letter from Governor King, in which he expressed himself well
pleased with what had been done.
We know that the Governor was keenly disappointed that Grant had failed
for the second time to explore Governor King's Bay and to fulfil other
duties which had been expected of him. The voyage, however, must have had
its compensations, as Barrallier was able not only to survey Jervis Bay
and Western Port (the map of the former is not at the Admiralty), but
also to obtain much of the information contained in the combined chart of
his "discoveries made in Bass Strait up to March 1802," reproduced above.