Expedition to Niksich--Character of Scenery--Engineer
Officers--Want of Maps--Affghan Dervish--Krustach--Wallack
Colonel--Bivouac--Bashi Bazouks--Pass of Dougah--Plain of
Niksich--Town and Frontier--Albanian Mudir--Turkish Women--Defects
of Government by Mudir and Medjlis.
The ennui produced by a long halt after a series of consecutive marches
had by this time taken such a hold on me, that with delight I heard Omer
Pacha's announcement of his intention to send a force with provisions
for the town and garrison of Niksich, whose proximity to Montenegro
placed them in the position of a beleaguered garrison, and rendered them
dependent upon the government for the ordinary necessaries of life. For
this duty Osman Pacha was detached, taking with him seven battalions and
four guns, which were subsequently reinforced by an eighth battalion
from Krustach. For the first three hours our route lay in the valley of
Gasko, which looked green and fertile, though showing few signs of
cultivation. The ruins of a church were the only antiquarian relics
which I noticed on the march. At the extremity of the valley the pathway
winds to the SE., having the rugged Piwa, looking bleak and bare, on the
left, and the more wooded heights of Baniani on the right. The
configuration of the hills, and the sharp outline of the country
generally, combined with the indescribably wild and rocky character of
some parts of the foreground, and the sloping grass banks in others, to
produce a picture at once grand and picturesque; but it was a picture of
which the eye soon wearied and the appreciation palled. There, as
throughout the whole march to Niksich, the country abounds with the most
magnificent defensible positions; natural parapets, whence a most
destructive fire might be poured upon an advancing foe, and incapable of
being turned by any flank movement; positions, in short, constructed for
the enactment of a second Thermopylæ. No signs of humanity were to be
found in that barren region. Here and there the carcass of a stray
horse, which had died probably of pure inanition, and afforded a scanty
meal to the birds and beasts of prey, was the only sign of aught that
had ever beat with the pulse of life. Leaving the main body, I came up
with a small party of engineer officers, employed in taking the angles
on the line of march. The serious inconvenience resulting from the want
of a good map of these countries is now much felt. True, it was
partially removed by the existence of a map of Montenegro, including a
portion of the Herzegovinian frontier, drawn by Major Cox[Q], R.E., and
published by the Topographical Department, a copy of which I had
presented to Omer Pacha, and which was much appreciated by him. Very
properly, however, he proposes that the country shall be surveyed by
Turkish officers, and a map constructed upon their observations. Its
accuracy will be somewhat doubtful, if we may judge from the crude
manner in which they set to work. The only instruments employed were
prismatic compasses, with which they jotted down angles at all the
salient points, an orderly dragoon counting his horse's paces in the
intervening time, which was occasionally as much as twenty minutes.
Passing these I reach the advance guard, and still pressing on I soon
find myself alone. No, not quite alone; another turn of the rocks brings
me abreast of a strange companion, his long flowing dress of yellow
surge, and Dervish's hat, with its hair-fringe, proclaim him to be one
of that large class of religious devotees who live in indolence by
working upon the superstition of their co-religionists. My friend,
however, was a man of some affluence, and very superior in all respects
to the generality of his order. By birth an Affghan, he has spent many
years in the Herzegovina, and had followed the army for some weeks
before I chanced to meet him. Wherever there was a prospect of work or
danger there were his little bay stallion and tufted lance always to be
seen. There was something weird-like in his presence, as he now sat
like a statue on his horse, and anon darted forward with a flourish of
his lance, sending up wreaths of blue smoke from the inseparable
chibouque. We thus rode in company until we overtook the small force of
irregulars, who had been sent in advance of the main body. This constant
use of, and great reliance on, the Bashi Bazouks, is most prejudicial to
the efficiency of the service; for while it tends to deteriorate the
spirit of the regulars by depriving them of the first chance of meeting
the enemy, it exposes the others to the influence of bribery, which
constitutes so prominent a feature of Oriental warfare. Omer Pacha well
understands the disadvantages resulting therefrom, and will soon have
established a more healthy system. Already he has succeeded in inspiring
the troops with a degree of self-confidence, quite unprecedented, by
merely avoiding that error into which Turkish Generals so often fall, of
detaching small bodies of troops, who are cut up by the enemy without
object and without result. Individually, he is perhaps somewhat
destitute of the _élan_ which is generally associated with the character
of a Guerilla chief, and yet without detracting from his character as a
master in the art of modern war, there is no species of campaigning
which he understands so well as that which he has successfully waged in
Montenegro and the other hill countries of the Turkish empire. Energy
and caution are the two qualities indispensable to success in these
countries, and these he possesses to an eminent degree. It may be deemed
presumptuous in me to pass an opinion upon one whose fame is world-wide;
but that very fact must be my excuse, that those who are entitled to
universal admiration are likewise subject to universal criticism. I have
heard it urged that Fuad Pacha, the present Grand Vizier, who displayed
much ability in the conduct of the war against the rebels in Thessalyand
Epirus in 1854, would have succeeded better in the present hostilities.
But, on the other hand, if the Grand Vizier be gifted with a greater
amount of dash, Omer Pacha possesses a cooler judgement and a larger
experience than any man in the Turkish empire; and before leaving the
subject, I would call attention to the meritorious service which he has
rendered to the Sultan under all circumstances. Disgraced without cause,
he has faithfully adhered to the country of his adoption, displaying
through good report and evil report an integrity which does honour to
his principles. For, be it remembered, that he is bound by no ties of
blood or nationality, and that treachery to Turkey would probably serve
as a passport to the highest honours in Austria or Russia.
Apologising for this digression, I would now return to Osman Pacha and
the column whom I have left so far to the rear. Late in the afternoon we
arrived at Krustach, a position somewhat similar to Koryta, and of
equal importance as regards the military occupation of the country. The
valley is at this point shut in on either hand by hills of just
sufficient height to give an advantageous command to a defending force;
these are connected by a cross range, that present an apparently
impassable barrier to an advancing foe. This position is surmounted by a
small fort with a court-yard, whose walls are pierced for musketry. Four
guns of indifferent quality are here mounted, commanding the approaches
on either side, while three guard-houses, each capable of holding two or
three companies, have been built on the most elevated positions,
flanking the approach from the NW. The garrison consisted of two
battalions commanded by a Wallack colonel, who might have passed but for
his fez for an officer in the Russian service, so much did he resemble
one of that nation in physiognomy. He appeared to be an active and
intelligent officer, and had, I heard, rendered good service during the
Eastern war. The appearance of the valley that night was strange and
picturesque. Hundreds of fires stretched far up the sides of the cradle
of hills in which our bivouac was formed, while a regular line of light
marked the chain of outposts which crowned the surrounding heights.
Head-quarters might be recognised by a large paper lantern suspended on
a high stick close to the camp-fire, around which lay Osman Pacha, one
of his staff, the Affghan Dervish, and myself, all sleeping quite as
comfortably as though we had never known a bed. Trumpets sounded at 5
A.M. for a start; and, having ascended to the fort, we found
the sun struggling for the mastery with the clouds on the tops of the
adjacent hills. The army was now in full motion; the regular infantry
defiled in something like order down the narrow path, which had been
imperceptible to us on the preceding evening. The Bashi Bazouks, on the
other hand, might be seen streaming down the hill-side, jumping,
rolling, and tumbling in strange confusion. Having inspected the fort we
joined in with these, and rode down a descent, which would have been
impracticable for any save the sure-footed iron-plated horses of the
East. After traversing the valley for some miles, the rugged line of
Piwa closed in upon us on the left, and a black impenetrable mountain
seemed to bar our farther progress. After three quarters of an hour's
ascent we were glad to halt. Clambering to a grassy knoll, we made a
frugal meal of the hardest of biscuit soaked in muddy water, the only
food, by the way, which the troops tasted from the time of leaving Gasko
until their return. These biscuits are manufactured at Constantinople,
and are so hard as to be uneatable unless soaked; they, however, form a
good substitute for bread, which is seldom to be procured. But we must
not linger too long, for already the sun is high in the heavens. On,
on, once more, brave little horses and unflinching men; your labours
will soon be rewarded: and thus they toiled on, until, with sobbing
flanks and perspiring brows, the highest requisite point was reached.
Stretching away to our right front was a grassy glade, looking like
velvet after the stony wilderness we had just left: a pine wood on the
left gave it all the appearance of an English park, which was only
dispelled by the extraordinary sight which now met the eye. Behind a dip
in the ground were collected a considerable body of irregular horse and
foot, who were awaiting our approach in all the magnificence of banners,
kettledrums, sackbuts, psalteries, and all kinds of possible and
impossible instruments of music. No sooner did we approach than away
they went, horse and foot, shouting and blowing and waving their flags.
The idea seemed contagious, for it was instantaneously followed by Osman
Pacha and everyone who bestrode any kind of beast, prominent amongst
whom the Affghan might be seen, flourishing his lance well to the fore.
The glade opened out into a valley of inconsiderable size, which has
witnessed more than one encounter between the Christians and Turks. Only
the previous winter an engagement took place, in which the Turks,
notwithstanding that they remained masters of the position, had from
forty to fifty men put _hors de combat_. The timber here was of far
finer growth than any I had yet seen, and the numerous oaks and elms
lying with uptorn roots betokened the violence of the storms which rage.
Many of them were lying midway across our line of march, and it was
found necessary to remove them to admit of a free passage. This was soon
effected, though perhaps with a little more noise than is consistent
with English ideas of order. We had by this time entered the Pass of
Dugah, formed by the extremities of Piwa on the left, and Banian on the
right. The slopes on either hand are wooded, that of Banian to much the
greatest extent. It is some fifteen miles in length, and consists of a
series of open spaces, connected by narrow defiles, whose bottoms
resemble the bed of a dry stream. The scenery is generally pretty, and
abounds with interest from its being a constant bone of contention
between the rival factions. As a defensive position it is undoubtedly
strong; but there is nothing in the nature of the ground in reality to
impede the advance of a determined force. While halted in one of the
open spaces which I have mentioned, we discovered a hole or cavern in
the side of the hill, capable of holding at least two hundred men.
Doubtless this is a constant resort of the freebooters and other lawless
ruffians who infest this part of the country. It was here that the
European Consuls were nearly meeting their deaths, although accompanied
by the Secretary of the Montenegrin Prince, when employed in making
arrangements for the relief of Niksich, which was then invested.
It was dark before we reached the extremity of the valley, and little
did we then think under what circumstances we should next see it. The
latter portion of our march lay through a wood of hazel and other small
trees, intersected here and there by pathways. Here we were met by more
irregulars, and, debouching from the high land, we found a portion of
the garrison of Niksich drawn up on the opposite bank of a little stream
which flowed beneath us. The contour of the surrounding country is very
remarkable: the gray heights of Piwa behind us, Drobniak to our left,
and Banian looking green by comparison on the right, while the rocky
mountains of Karatag form a dark and gloomy foreground to the picture.
During the ensuing night the rain descended in torrents, rendering the
spongy ground on which we had bivouacked very much the reverse of a
desirable resting-place. In vain I waited for an improvement in the
weather, which only became worse and worse; and eventually I started in
pursuit of that portion of the troops which had left at early dawn in
charge of the provisions for Niksich. These consisted of 65,000 okes of
meal and biscuit, with a few head of horned cattle. The last commodity
appeared to me to be scarcely necessary, as we met some hundreds of
bullocks being driven out to graze in the valley, while the presence of
our force rendered such a measure safe. How these were generally
supplied with forage I am at a loss to conjecture, since the Mussulman
population were unable to venture more than one mile from the town,
except in bodies of 500 armed men. The distance to the town from the
commencement of the valley is about six miles, through a broad and
well-watered pasture land. In parts this has been ploughed and devoted
to the produce of grain, burnt stubble of which denoted the destructive
ferocity of the neighbouring Montenegrins. The new line of frontier
recently defined by the European Commission scarcely tends to promote a
pacific adjustment of existing difficulties. On the contrary, the line
of demarcation as it now is must inevitably lead to further
complications. Situated at the apex of a triangle, the town and plain of
Niksich offer a tempting bait to the lawless brigands, who infest the
mountains which form two of its sides, and who keep the unfortunate
Mussulman population in terror of their lives. At the south-eastern
extremity of the plain stands the town of Niksich, a small, dirty, and
irregular collection of buildings, all huddled together in the closest
possible vicinity to the ruined fort, as though seeking the protection
of its mouldering walls. Of the origin of the fort I could learn little,
save from an inscription over the arched entrance, from which it
appears to have been built by the son of an old and influential Albanian
chieftain about 200 years ago. Two square towers, containing five pieces
of ordnance, form the principal feature in the defensive works; but the
whole place is in so ricketty a condition that, were a cannonade to be
opened from its walls, they would inevitably come down about the ears of
their defenders. From the easternmost of these towers the town runs out
some few hundred yards towards the Montenegrin frontier; but all egress
upon that side is out of the question, as there is ever a bullet in
readiness for anyone who may be so rash as to cross a certain green
patch of grass, which appears to be accepted as the legitimate boundary
of the two provinces, although not precisely specified as such. At this
point the Turkish sentries are withdrawn, but farther to the south a
small white building serves as a guard-house, whence sentries are
supplied to form a cordon round that portion of the frontier. On
arriving at Niksich, we--that is, Osman Pacha's principal staff officer
and myself--paid a visit to the Mudir, whom we found sitting in
dignified conclave with his whole Medjlis. The Mudir, a magnificent
Albanian, standing about six feet four inches, and of proportionate
girth, welcomed us most cordially, and appeared a person of far greater
intelligence than most of his class. He bitterly lamented the increase
of suffering, resulting from the change in the line of frontier.
'Attacks by the Montenegrins and their friends,' said he, 'are now of
daily occurrence, and there seems to be no chance of any improvement in
our condition.' He expressed great confidence, however, in the
advantages to be derived from Omer Pacha's arrival, and took a clear and
sound view of things generally. He argued, correctly enough, that the
rebels would stand a good chance of being literally starved into
submission during the ensuing winter and spring, since the occupation of
the country by the Turkish troops had prevented them from getting in
their harvest, while the benighted frenzy which they had themselves
displayed in the wanton destruction of the crops had deterred the
neighbouring landowners from cultivating their fields. But the open
intelligent face of our friend, the Mudir, lit up, more especially when
telling us of some of the dours which he had made against the rebels;
and in good sooth he looked better fitted for such employment, judging
from his great length and breadth, than for sitting hour after hour on
his haunches, emitting clouds of tobacco-smoke, and reflecting upon the
individuality of God, and the plurality of wives, reserved in the next
world for all those who say their prayers regularly, and kill a
sufficient number of Feringhees in this. These stereotyped notions,
however, regarding the tenets of Mahometanism are fast losing credence,
just in proportion as the growth of European ideas is undermining its
very foundation. I do not say that Mussulmans are becoming more
religious or more elevated from their contact with Christian peoples.
Indeed, I rather incline to the opposite opinion; but the European
tendencies which prevail are marked clearly enough by the facile
adroitness with which the followers of the Prophet contrive to evade the
injunctions of the Koran, whether it be in the matter of wines and
strong drinks, or the more constitutional difficulty touching loans,
debts, and the like. For myself, I rather incline to the view of the old
Pacha, who, after listening with his habitual patience to the
long-winded arguments of a Protestant missionary, completely
dumb-foundered that excellent divine by remarking that he (the Pacha)
felt quite convinced of the similarity of their creeds, since the only
apparent difference was, that the Christian has three Gods and one wife,
while the Mussulman has three wives and one God. Even in this last
matter, the plurality of wives, a marvellous amendment is visible. It is
probably owing to the expense attendant thereon, and also to the little
fact, that it is not quite in accordance with the spirit of the age to
drown, or otherwise destroy, those women who indulge their very
pardonable and womanly frailty of wrangling and fighting one with
another. But, granting all this, it is impossible not to perceive that
the position of Turkish women is daily improving. All of a certain
class receive some education; and I never yet spoke to any intelligent
Turk on the subject without hearing him deplore the existence of those
laws in the Koran which would deprive the world of that which renders it
most enjoyable. That the time will come when the religious influences of
Mahometanism will cease to offer a bar to all progress and advancement,
is sufficiently evident, and it consequently behoves Europe to guard
against the re-establishment of moral heathenism on the ruin of
fanatical Islamism.
Returning to the council-chamber of the Mudir of Niksich, I would call
attention to the similarity of expression and venerable appearance of
nearly every member of the Medjlis. This is one of the faults of the
system, that an undue preponderance is thereby given to the ideas of a
certain class.
From the experience of those Europeans who have had good opportunities
of forming an opinion, it would seem that this double government of
Pacha and Medjlis works badly, owing to the ignorance and want of
capacity of those from whom the latter are selected. It would,
therefore, be far more salutary were they only permitted to advise in
place of having a vote; absolute authority being vested in the Pacha,
who should be held personally responsible that the rights of the people
be not infringed, and rigorously punished if convicted of malpractices.
Many will doubtless deny the advantages to be thus derived; but it is
self-evident that in half-civilised countries power should be in the
hands of as few as possible.
It is not my intention to enter the lists as the champion of the Ottoman
Government, whose apathy and insincerity cannot be too strongly
condemned; but I contend that governments, like everything else, must be
judged by comparison, and that the only true measure of the merits of a
government is the moral and social condition of the people whom it
rules. The Turkish Government, whether regarded in its central or
provincial bearings, is decidedly in advance of its subjects. In its
diplomatic relations, in monetary and financial schemes, Turkey has at
any rate acquired a certain amount of credit, while an increase of the
revenue from four to nearly twelve millions within the past thirty
years, and the continued increase of the Christian population, is a
certain proof of the diminution of oppression, and proves conclusively
that a remnant of vitality still exists in her veins.
[Footnote Q: The British member of the European Commission for defining
the frontier of Montenegro.]