CHAPTER III

THE DELHI TERRITORY

1829-1846

John Lawrence, in company with his elder brother Henry, entered in 1829

upon his new life, beginning with a five months’ voyage through the

Atlantic and Indian Oceans. On this voyage he suffered severely from

sea-sickness, and the suffering was protracted over several weeks. This

must have aggravated any constitutional tendency to nervous irritability

in his head. He landed at Calcutta in February, 1830, just when the cool

season was over and the weather was growing warmer and warmer till it

attained the heat of early summer. Then he passed through the rainy

period of midsummer, which in those latitudes always had a depressing

effect on him as on many others. He was an ordinarily good student in

the College of Fort William--the official name whereby the stronghold of

Calcutta is called. He mixed but little in the society of the capital,

and pined for his English home, fancying that poverty there would be

better than affluence in the East; he even allowed himself to be

dominated by this sort of home-sickness, for the first and last time in

his life. However, after sojourning for a few months in Calcutta, and

passing the examination in the vernacular of Upper India, he asked for

and obtained an appointment at Delhi, partly because his brother Henry

was serving in the Artillery at Kurnal in that neighbourhood, partly

also because the far-off frontier had a fascination for him as for many

others. In those days a journey from Calcutta to Delhi (now accomplished

by railway within three days) often occupied nearly three months by boat

on the Ganges; but by travelling in a palanquin he traversed the

distance, about eleven hundred miles, within three weeks.

Arrived at Delhi, in 1830, he felt that happy revulsion of thought and

sentiment which is well known to many who have passed through similar

circumstances. He had not only landed on a strange and distant shore,

but had advanced many hundred miles into the interior of the country. He

had thus, so to speak, cut his cables and cast away home-sickness,

treasuring the memory of the former existence in the sunniest corner of

his heart, but bracing and buckling himself to the work of the new

existence. This work of his, too, was varied and intensely human in its

interests. Its nature was such as made him anxious to learn, and yet the

learning was extraordinarily hard at first. His dormant energies were

thus awakened, as he dived deep into the affairs of the Indian people,

listened to their petitions, guarded their rights, collected the taxes,

watched the criminal classes, traced out crime, regulated the police.

The work was in part sedentary, but it also afforded him healthy

exercise on foot and on horseback, as he helped in supervising the

streets, the drains, the roads, and the municipal institutions of all

sorts in a great city and its neighbourhood.

He was, moreover, impressed deeply by imperial Delhi itself as one of

the most noteworthy cities in the world, and as

“The lone mother of dead empires.”

The matchless palace of the Great Mogul overhanging the river Jumna, the

hall of audience, the white marble mosque, a veritable pearl of

architecture, the great city mosque, probably the finest place of

worship ever raised by Moslem hands, the ruins outside the walls of

several capitals belonging to extinct dynasties, doubtless affected his

imagination in some degree. But he was too much pre-occupied by work to

regard these things as they would be regarded by artists or

antiquarians. Nevertheless his native keenness of observation served him

well even here, for he would describe the structural merits of these

noble piles, the clean cutting of the red-sandstone and the welding

together of the massive masonry. He was more likely to observe fully the

geographical situation, which gave commercial and political importance

to the city in many ages, and preserved it as a capital throughout

several revolutions. In the intervals of practical business he must have

noticed the condition of the Great Mogul, whom the British Government

then maintained as a phantom sovereign in the palace. But he could not

have anticipated the position of fell activity into which this very _roi

fainéant_ was fated to be thrust some twenty-seven years later. It will

be seen hereafter that the local knowledge which he thus gained of

Delhi, served him in good stead during the most critical period of his

after-life.

In 1834 he was placed in temporary charge of the district of Paniput, in

a vast plain that stretches along the western bank of the Jumna. His

being after only four years’ service entrusted, as acting Magistrate and

Collector, with the command of a district containing some thousands of

square miles and some hundreds of thousands of inhabitants, was a proof

of the early reputation he had won as a capable officer and

well-informed administrator. At Paniput he controlled, as a superior,

much the same work as that which he had performed as a subordinate at

Delhi. That which he had learnt by laborious self-instruction on a

smaller scale, he was now to practise on a larger. The area being

extensive, and rapidity of movement being essential to the maintenance

of a personal control over affairs, he used to ride on horseback over

his district from end to end. Every arduous or dangerous case, fiscal or

criminal, he would keep in his own hands; though even in these early

days he trusted his subordinates when trustworthy, and made them do

their duty as he did his. He did not, indeed, adorn all that he touched,

but he stamped on it the mark of individuality. The natives soon learnt

to regard him as the embodiment of British justice. The various sections

of the population, the evil-disposed or the industrious, the oppressor

or the oppressed, the suppliant for redress or the hardened

wrong-doer,--all in their respective ways felt his personality. The good

officers in India live, move and have their being among the people, and

such was his daily routine. He could not fail, moreover, to be moved by

the historic traditions of Paniput--the scene of the Mahabhârat, that

antique epic of the Hindoos; the victory of the young Akber, the first

of the Great Moguls; the Persian invasion under Nâdir Shah; the rout of

the Mahrattas under Ahmed Shah the Afghan: especially must the tragic

and touching incidents of the Mahratta disaster have appealed to

susceptibilities such as his.

In these days he practised himself much in horsemanship, becoming a

strong rider and a good judge of horses; it was truly to be said of him

_gaudet equis canibusque_. He was a keen observer of steers and heifers,

of bullocks for draught and plough. Being fond of animals generally, he

studied their breeding, nurture and training, their temper, habits and

capabilities. Though a stranger to botany as a science, he knew the

local names of every tree and plant. He had a discriminating eye for the

varieties of soil, the qualities of growing crops, the faults and merits

of husbandry. Though not versed in the theory of economic science, he

had an insight into the causes affecting the rise and fall of prices,

the interchange of commodities, the origin and progress of wealth, the

incidence of taxation. He had hardly, indeed, mastered the

technicalities of finance, yet he had a natural bent for figures, and

was a financier almost by instinct.

This was the spring-tide of his public life when he was bursting forth

into vigour of body, soaring in spirit, and rejoicing like a young lion

in healthy strength. Then, too, he was able to withstand the climate all

the year round. For although in summer the sky was as brass, the earth

as iron, the wind as a blast from a furnace, still in winter the

marching in tents was salubrious, the breeze invigorating, the

temperature delicious by day, and the air at night frosty.

After an incumbency of three years at Paniput he was transferred to

Gurgaum, a district south of Delhi. There his work was the same as that

already described, only somewhat harder, owing to the lawless and

intractable habits of some classes among the inhabitants, and because of

drought which visited and distressed that region. Then in 1838 he was

appointed Settlement-Officer of Etawah, a district south-east of Delhi

between the Ganges and the Jumna. In technical or official language, his

settlement-work included the whole scope of landed affairs, in the most

comprehensive as well as in the minutest sense,--the assessment of that

land-tax, which is the main burden of the peasantry and the prime

resource of the State--the cadastral survey of every field in every

village or parish--the adjudication of all disputes regarding the

rights, interests and property in land--the registration of landed

tenures. His duty herein was, of all duties which can be entrusted to a

man in India, the one of most interest and importance, the one which

penetrates deepest into the national life, the one for which the

Government always chooses its most promising officers. This duty,

moreover, universally attractive to the best men throughout India, had

for him especial charms in the districts between the Ganges and the

Jumna. For here he found, in all their pristine and unimpaired vigour,

those Village Communities which have survived the shocks of war and

revolution, and have engaged the thoughts of jurists and philosophers.

His business was to guard the innate and indestructible energy of these

ancient communities, to adapt their development to the wants of the

present time, to fence round their privileges and responsibilities with

all the forms of a civilized administration. The experience thus gained

was to him of unspeakable value in the most arduous passages of his

after life. But though he entered with all his heart and mind into this

work, he felt the district itself to be dull and distasteful after Delhi

and Paniput, and this feeling shows how the antique splendour of the

former and the historic traditions of the latter had affected his

imagination. He could no longer live contentedly unless amidst his

surroundings there were something grand for his mind to feed upon.

However grateful he may have felt to Etawah for the experience it had

given him, he never looked back on the place with pleasure. One

melancholy recollection abided with him, for it was here that he caught

his first serious illness, a violent fever which rapidly reduced him to

the verge of death. By an effort of nature he shook it off and rallied

for a while. Then in the autumn of 1839 he glided, as an invalid in

river-boats, down the Jumna and the Ganges to Calcutta. There he had a

relapse of fever, and decided in the beginning of 1840 to proceed to

England, being entitled to furlough after his active service of ten

years. He arrived in England during June of that year.

The first act in the drama of his public life was thus concluded. He had

done well, he had mastered the details of a difficult profession, in his

own words he “had learnt his business.” He was esteemed by his comrades

and his superiors as a competent officer in all respects; beyond this,

however, nothing more was said or thought of him at that time. All this

has been and yet will be recorded of hundreds of British officers in

India, before or after him, whose names are nevertheless not written in

the roll of fame. _Vixere fortes ante Agamemnona multi_: indeed many men

as good as he then was are now living and will still live. Furthermore,

many officers have, in the course of their first ten years, shown more

signs of genius, or talent, or statesmanlike accomplishments, than he

had displayed up to this time. When he sailed from Calcutta for England

in 1840 neither he himself nor his friends had, on a retrospect of his

first ten years, formed any idea of the career which he was to run

during his second ten years, and had never, even in day-dreams, caught a

vision of the destiny which awaited him during his third ten years. The

elements of his character were being gradually fused into granitic

consistency. To him was applicable that British metaphor, which though

familiar is never trite because the proofs of its truth are

oft-recurring: the sturdy oak grows slowly, but in proportion to that

slowness is the ultimate strength to bear the weight, withstand the

strain and resist the storm.

Returning to England during the summer of 1840, he found the home of his

youth at Clifton much altered. His father had passed away, his sister

Letitia had married, but his mother remained to benefit by his

affectionate assistance. Though his health was not re-established, yet

his energy and spirits revived under the European skies, and his

vivacity astonished both friends and acquaintances. He proceeded to

Bonn, and stayed there for a time with his sister-in-law, the wife of

George Lawrence who was in Afghanistan. Then he paid visits in England

and travelled in Scotland and Ireland. In Donegal he was so fortunate as

to meet Harriette, daughter of the Reverend Richard Hamilton, whom he

married in August 1841, thus forming a union of the very happiest

character. He proceeded to the continent of Europe on a wedding-tour,

passing through Switzerland to Italy, and gathered notions, in his

practical way, regarding the policy and strategy of ancient Rome. He

particularly noticed the campaigns of Hannibal, to which he often

alluded in after-life. But the Indian ailments partially reappeared in

the malarious climate of the Roman campagna. At Naples, in the beginning

of 1842, he received news of the disasters at Caubul and hurried home to

England, sorely anxious regarding the captivity of his brother George

amidst the Afghans. In London he had a grave relapse of illness, but was

sufficiently recovered by the autumn to start for India by the overland

route, after bidding a last farewell to his mother.

During his sojourn in England of little more than two years, he left

upon every one who conversed with him a marked impression of his

originality, elasticity, animated conversation, brightness of spirit and

physical force. Those who saw him only when he was well, little thought

how suddenly he could become ill, and--erroneously, alas!--supposed him

to be a man of abounding health as well as strength. None, however,

foresaw his future greatness, or even predicted for him a career more

useful than that which is run by the many able and zealous men who are

found in the Indian service. This failure of prescience is the more

remarkable, because his elder brother Henry had long been designated by

admiring comrades as one of the heroes and statesmen of the future.

He landed with his wife at Bombay towards the end of 1842, and thus

gained his first experience of Western India. Thence he travelled by

palanquin, at the rate of thirty miles a day, over the eight hundred

miles that separated him from Allahabad in the North-Western Provinces

to which he officially belonged. In the beginning of 1843 he marched at

the rate of ten miles a day in tents towards the Delhi territory, where

he was thankful to find employment. The tent-life in the bracing

winter-season of Upper India was very beneficial to him physically, and

he resumed work amidst his early associations in good health. With his

wife and young children he settled down to the routine of public life,

and girded himself for the discharge of ordinary duties. At Kurnal, not

far from Delhi, he made a searching and practical analysis of the causes

which produced a malarious and disabling sickness among the troops

stationed there. In 1844 he was appointed to the substantive post of

Magistrate and Collector of Delhi. While holding this appointment he

laid the foundation of his fortunes in public life. In November, 1845,

he first met the Governor-General, Lord Hardinge, who passed through

Delhi to join the army assembling near the Sutlej for the first Sikh

war. His bearing, conversation and subsequent proceedings, made a

lasting impression on the mind of the Governor-General, who ever

afterwards spoke and wrote of him as the ideal of what a civil officer

for India ought to be.

He soon justified by deeds the high estimate thus formed respecting

him, for he was charged with the duty of finding transport for the siege

train with its heavy guns, stores and munitions from Delhi to the

battlefields on the bank of the Sutlej; and this transport was to

consist of four thousand carts with bullocks and drivers complete. He

furnished a signal instance of the manner whereby in India the civil

administration aids the army by providing transport in time of war. Such

transport, in quantities adequate for the service, cannot be obtained

without a really powerful organisation; during public emergency it can

by law be forcibly impressed, but when thus collected it is likely to

prove inefficient unless the civil authority makes such arrangements as

may secure the contentment of those from whom the vehicles and the

animals are hired: in this case his arrangements were practically

perfect. Within a very short time he so managed that all the thousands

of carts should be driven by their owners, who, for good hire, partly

paid in advance, became willing to undertake the service. He despatched

the long-extended train in complete order so that it arrived, without

any straggling or deserting, without the failure of a man, a wheel or a

bullock, in time for the battle of Sobraon. For the first time in his

life a public service had been demanded from him of definite importance,

requiring knowledge of the natives, aptitude for command and power of

organisation. He at once stepped to the very front as if to the manner

born. His capacity, too, was evinced in a large affair, wherein the

Governor-General from personal experience was peculiarly qualified to

adjudge the merit. So when, as a consequence of the war, the

Trans-Sutlej States were shorn from the Sikh kingdom and annexed to the

British dominions, he was appointed by Lord Hardinge to be the

Commissioner and Superintendent of the newly-acquired territory.

He quitted his command at Delhi early in 1846, never dreaming of the

wonderful circumstances in which he was destined to resume it only

eleven short years later in 1857. Those who reflect on the reserve

force, the dormant capacity, the latent energy that existed within him,

might imagine poetically the surging thoughts that made his breast heave

as he drove or rode off from the bank of the Jumna with his face set

towards the bank of the Sutlej. But such was not his manner; if he had

leisure to meditate at all, he would have peered into the future with a

modest even a humble look, anticipating the disappointments rather than

the successes that might be in store for him. On his way, though at the

most favourable season of the year, he was seized with a sharp attack of

cholera. From that, however, he rallied quickly, and crossed the Sutlej

in sufficiently good health, and with buoyant spirits.

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