The Cathedral, the Palazzo Pubblico, the two great churches of Santa

Croce and Santa Maria Novella, all leaped into being within a few years,

almost simultaneously. The Duomo was founded, as some say, in 1294, the

same year in which Santa Croce was begun, or, according to others, in

1298; and between these two dates, in 1296, the Palace of the Signoria,

the seat of the Commonwealth, the center of all public life, had its

commencement. All these great buildings, Arnolfo designed and began, and

his genius requires no other evidence. The stern strength of the

Palazzo, upright and strong like a knight in mail, and the large and

noble lines of the Cathedral, ample and liberal and majestic in ornate

robes and wealthy ornaments, show how well he knew to vary and adapt his

art to the different requirements of municipal and religious life and to

the necessities of the age.

We are not informed who they were who carried out the design of the

Duomo. Arnolfo only lived to see a portion of this, his greatest work,

completed--"the three principal tribunes which were under the cupola,"

and which Vasari tells us were so solid and strongly built as to be able

to bear the full weight of Brunelleschi's dome, which was much larger

and heavier than the one the original architect had himself designed.

Arnolfo died when he had built his Palazzo in rugged strength, as it

still stands, with walls like living rock and heavy Tuscan cornices--tho

it was reserved to the other masters to put upon it the wonderful crown

of its appropriate tower--and just as the round apse of the cathedral

approached completion; a hard fate for a great builder to leave such

noble work behind him half done, yet the most common of all fates. He

died, so far as there is any certainty in dates, in 1300, during the

brief period of Dante's power in Florence, when the poet was one of the

priors and much engaged in public business; and the same eventful year

concluded the existence of Cimabue, the first of the great school of

Florentine painters--he whose picture was carried home to the church in

which it was to dwell for all the intervening centuries with such pride

and acclamation that the Borgo Allegri is said to have taken its name

from this wonderful rejoicing....

No more notable or distinct figure than Giotto is in all the history of

Florence. He was born a peasant, in the village of Vespignano in the

Mugello, the same district which afterward gave birth to Fra Angelico.

Giotto had at least part of his professional training in the great

cathedral at Assisi built over the bones of St. Francis, was one of

those homely, vigorous souls, "a natural person," like his father, whom

neither the lapse of centuries nor the neighborhood of much greater and

more striking persons about them, can deprive of their naive and genuine

individuality. Burly, homely, characteristic, he carries our attentions

always with him, alike on the silent road, or in the king's palace, or

his own simple shop. Wherever he is, he is always the same, shrewd,

humorous, plain-spoken, seeing through all pretenses, yet never

ill-natured in doing so--a character not very lofty or elevated, and to

which the racy ugliness of a strong, uncultivated race seems

natural--but who under that homely nature carried appreciations and

conceptions of beauty such as few fine minds possess.

Of all the beautiful things with which Giotto adorned his city, not one

speaks so powerfully to the foreign visitor--the forestiere whom he and

his fellows never took into account, tho who occupy so large a space

among the admirers of his genius nowadays--as the lovely Campanile which

stands by the great cathedral like the white royal lily beside the Mary

of the Annunciation, slender and strong and everlasting in its delicate

grace. It is not often that a man takes up a new trade when he is

approaching sixty, or even goes into a new path out of his familiar

routine. But Giotto seems to have turned without a moment's hesitation

from his paints and panels to the less easily-wrought materials of the

builder and sculptor, without either faltering from the great enterprise

or doubting his own power to do it. His frescoes and altarpieces and

crucifixes, the work he had been so long accustomed to, and which he

could execute pleasantly in his own workshop or on the cool new walls of

church or convent, with his trained school of younger artists round to

aid him, were as different as possible from the elaborate calculations

and measurements by which alone the lofty tower, straight, and lightsome

as a lily, could have sprung so high and stood so lightly against that

Italian sky.

Like the poet or the romancist when he turns from the flowery ways of

fiction and invention, where he is unencumbered by any restrictions save

those of artistic keeping and personal will, to the grave and beaten

path of history--the painter must have felt when he too turned from the

freedom and poetry of art to this first scientific undertaking. The

Cathedral was so far finished by this time, its front not scarred and

bare as afterward, but adorned with statues according to old Arnolfo's

plan, who was dead more than thirty years before; but there was no

belfry, no companion peal of peace and sweetness to balance the hoarse

old vacca with its voice of iron.

Giotto seems to have thrown himself into work not only without

reluctance but with enthusiasm. The foundation-stone of the building was

laid in July of that year, with all the greatness of Florence looking

on; and the painter entered upon his work at once, working out the most

poetic effort of his life in marble and stone, among the masons'

chippings and the dust and blaze of the public street. At the same time

he designed, tho it does not seem sure whether he lived long enough to

execute, a new façade for the Cathedral, replacing Arnolfo's old statues

by something better.

Of the Campanile itself it is difficult to speak in ordinary words. The

enrichments of the surface, which is covered by beautiful groups set in

a graceful framework of marble, with scarcely a flat or unadorned spot

from top to bottom, have been ever since the admiration of artists and

of the world. But we confess, for our own part, that it is the structure

itself that affords us that soft ecstasy of contemplation, sense of a

perfection before which the mind stops short, silenced and filled with

the completeness of beauty unbroken, which Art so seldom gives, tho

Nature often attains it by the simplest means, through the exquisite

perfection of a flower or a stretch of summer sky.

Just as we have looked at a sunset we look at Giotto's tower, poised far

above in the blue air, in all the wonderful dawns and moonlights of

Italy, swift darkness shadowing its white glory at the tinkle of the Ave

Maria, and a golden glow of sunbeams accompanying the mid-day angelus.

Between the solemn antiquity of the old baptistery and the historical

gloom of the great cathedral, it stands like the lily--if not, rather,

like the great angel himself hailing her who was blest among women, and

keeping up that lovely salutation, musical and sweet as its own beauty,

for century after century, day after day. Giotto made not only the

design, but even, Vasari assures us, worked at the groups and

"bassi-relievi" of these "stories in marble, in which are depicted the

beginning of all the arts." ...

Filippo of Ser Brunellescho of the Lapi, which is, according to

Florentine use, his somewhat cumbrous name, or Brunelleschi for short,

as custom permitted him to be called, was the son of a notary, who as

notaries do, hoped and expected his boy to follow in his steps and

succeed to his practise. But, like other sons doomed their fathers' soul

to cross, Filippo took to those "figuretti" in bronze which were so

captivating to the taste of the time, and preferred rather to be a

goldsmith, to hang upon the skirts of art, than to work in the paternal

office. He was, as Vasari insinuates, small, puny, and ugly, but full of

dauntless and daring energy as well as genius. From his gold and silver

work, the "carvings" which old Bartoluccio had been so glad to escape,

and from his "figuretti," the ambitious lad took to architectural

drawing, of which, according to Vasari, he was one of the first

amateurs, making "portraits" of the Cathedral and baptistery, of the

Palazzo Pubblico, and the other chief buildings of the city. He was so

eloquent a talker that a worthy citizen declared of him that he seemed

"a new St. Paul;" and in his thoughts he was continually busy planning

or imagining something skilful and difficult.

The idea of completing the Cathedral by adding to it a cupola worthy of

its magnificent size and proportions seems to have been in the young

man's head before the Signoria or the city took any action in the

matter. Arnolfo's designs are said to have been lost, and all the young

Filippo could do was to study the picture in the Spanish chapel of Santa

Maria Novella, where the cathedral was depicted according to Arnolfo's

intention; and this proof to the usefulness of architectural

backgrounds, no doubt, moved him to those pictures of building which he

was fond of making.

After his failure in the competition with Ghiberti for the baptistery

gates, Filippo went to Rome, accompanied by Donato. Here the two friends

lived and studied together for some time, one giving himself to

sculpture, the other to architecture. Brunelleschi, according to Vasari,

made this a period of very severe study. He examined all the remains of

ancient buildings with the keenest care; studying the foundations and

the strength of the walls, and the way in which such a prodigious load

as the great dome, which already he saw in his mind's eye, could best be

supported.

So profound were his researches that he was called the treasure-hunter

by those who saw him coming and going through the streets of Rome, a

title so far justified that he is said in one instance to have actually

found an ancient earthenware jar full of old coins. While engaged in

these studies, his money failing him, he worked for a jeweller according

to the robust practise of the time, and after making ornaments and

setting gems all day, set to work on his buildings, round and square,

octagons, basilicas, arches, colosseums, and amphitheaters, perfecting

himself in the principles of his art.

In 1407 he returned to Florence, and then there began a series of

negotiations between the artist and the city, to which there seemed at

first as if no end could come. They met, and met again, assemblies of

architects, of city authorities, of competitors less hopeful and less

eager than himself. His whole heart, it is evident, was set upon the

business. Hearing Donatello at one of these assemblies mention the

cathedral at Orvieto, which he had visited on his way from Rome,

Filippo, having his mantle and his hood on, without saying a word to

anyone, set straight off from the Piazza on foot, and got as far as

Cortona, from whence he returned with various pen-and-ink drawings

before Donato or any one else had found out that he was away.

Thus the small, keen, determined, ugly artist, swift and sudden as

lightning, struck through all the hesitations, the consultations, the

maunderings, the doubts, and the delays of the two authorities who had

the matter in hand, the Signoria and the Operai, as who should say the

working committee, and who made a hundred difficulties and shook their

wise heads, and considered one foolish and futile plan after another

with true burgher hesitation and wariness.

At last, in 1420, an assembly of competitors was held in Florence, and a

great many plans put forth, one of which was to support the proposed

vault by a great central pillar, while another advised that the space to

be covered should be filled with soil mixed with money, upon which the

dome might be built, and which the people would gladly remove without

expense afterward for the sake of the farthings! An expedient most droll

in its simplicity. Brunelleschi, impatient of so much folly, went off to

Rome, it is said, in the middle of these discussions, disgusted by the

absurd ignorance which was thus put in competition with his careful

study and long labor. Finally the appointment was conceded to him.

The greatest difficulty with which he had to contend was a strike of his

workmen, of whom, however, there being no trades' unions in those days,

the imperious master made short work. And thus, day by day, the great

dome swelled out over the shining marble walls and rose against the

beautiful Italian sky. Nothing like it had been seen before by living

eyes. The solemn grandeur of the Pantheon at Rome was indeed known to

many, and San Giovanni[34] was in some sort an imitation of that; but

the immense structure of the cupola, so justly poised, springing with

such majestic grace from the familiar walls to which it gave new

dignity, flattered the pride of the Florentines as something unique,

besides delighting the eyes and imagination of so beauty-loving a race.

With that veiled and subtle pride which takes the shape of pious fear,

some even pretended to tremble, lest it should be supposed to be too

near an emulation of the blue vault above, and that Florence was

competing with heaven; others, with the delightful magniloquence of the

time, declared that the hills around the city were scarcely higher than

the beautiful Duomo; and Vasari himself has a doubt that the heavens

were envious, so persistent were the storms amid which the cupola arose.

Yet there it stands to this day, firm and splendid, uninjured by

celestial envy, more harmonious than St. Peter's, the crown of the

beautiful city. Its measurements and size and the secrets of its

formation we do not pretend to set forth; the reader will find them in

every guide-book. But the keen, impetuous, rapid figure of the

architect, impatient, and justly impatient, of all rivalry, the murmurs

and comments of the workmen; the troubled minds of the city authorities,

not knowing how to hold their ground between that gnome of majestic

genius who had fathomed all the secrets of construction and built a

hundred Duomos in his mind, while they were pottering over the

preliminaries of one; have all the interest of life for us.

Through the calm fields of art he goes like a whirlwind, keen, certain,

unfailing in his aim, unsparing in means, carried forward by such an

impulse of will and self-confidence that nothing can withstand him. Sure

of his own powers, as he was when he carved in secret the crucifix which

was to cover poor Donatello with confusion, he saw before him, over his

carvings, as he worked for the Roman goldsmith, the floating vision of

the great dome he was to build--and so built it, all opposition

notwithstanding, clearing out of his way with the almost contemptuous

impatience of that knowledge which has no doubt of itself, the competing

architects.

GHIBERTI'S GATES[35]

BY CHARLES YRIARTE

The Baptistery is the most ancient building in Florence. If not of pagan

origin it dates from the earliest ages of Christianity. It was coated

with marble of different colors by Arnolfo di Cambio in 1293, while in

the sixteenth century Agnolo Gaddi designed the lantern; but long before

Arnolfo's time it had been employed as a Christian place of worship,

being used as a cathedral up to 1128, when it was converted into a

baptistery.

This building contains three gates, which have no parallel in the world.

The oldest is that on the southern side, upon which Pisano spent

twenty-two years of his life, a most beautiful work representing, in

twenty compartments, the life of St. John the Baptist. The frieze which

runs round it was commenced nearly a century afterward by Ghiberti, and

Pollaiuolo had much to do with its completion.

The northern gates are by Ghiberti, and, like those of Pisano, are

divided into twenty compartments, the subject being the life of Christ.

The bronze door-posts are delicately carved with flowers, fruit, and

animals. These gates were first placed on the eastern side, but in 1452

were removed to make room for Ghiberti's still finer work.

On the third façade, that which faces the Duomo, is the Porta del

Paradiso, so named by Michael Angelo, who declared that this gate was

worthy to be the entrance into Paradise. Ghiberti divided each panel

into five parts, taking the following as his subjects, after suggestions

made by Leonardo Bruni Aretino: (1) Creation of Adam and Eve; (2) Cain

and Abel; (3) Noah; (4) Abraham and Isaac; (5) Jacob and Esau; (6)

Joseph in Egypt; (7) Moses on Mount Sinai; (8) The Capture of Jericho;

(9) David Slaying Goliath; (10) The Queen of Sheba and Soloman.

The frieze contains statuettes of the prophets and prophetesses and

portrait-busts of men and women still alive, including Ghiberti himself,

and his father; while the frame-posts, with their masses of vegetation

and flora wrought in bronze, are admirable for their truth to nature.

Bronze groups representing the "Decapitation of St. John the Baptist,"

by Danti, and the "Baptism of our Lord," by Andrea Sansovino, surmount

two of the gates, which were at one time heavily gilded, tho few traces

of this are now visible.

The Baptistery, empty as it appears to the eye upon first entering it,

is replete with beautiful monuments, a description of which would fill a

good-sized volume. It is built, as I have already said, upon an

octagonal plan. The altar, which formerly stood beneath the cupola, has

been removed. On the 24th of June every year the magnificent retablo in

massive silver, which is preserved among the treasures in the Opera del

Duomo, is displayed in the Baptistery. The silver alone weighs 325

pounds, including two center-pieces, two side-pieces, and a silver

crucifix with two statuettes seven feet high, and weighing 141 pounds,

the group being completed by two statues of Peace in engine-turned

silver. Many artists were employed upon the making of it. Finiguerra,

Pollaiuolo, Cione, Michelozzi, Verrocchio, and Cennini made the lower

parts and the bas-reliefs of the front, while the cross, executed in

1456, is by Betto di Francesco, and the base of it by Milano di Domenico

dei and Antonio Pollaiuolo.

The interior of the cupola of San Giovanni is ornamented with some of

the oldest specimens of mosaic decoration in Florence, these Byzantine

artists being the first, after Murano and Altino, to exercise their

craft in Italy, and being succeeded by Jacopo da Turita, Andrea Tafi,

and Gaddo Gaddi.

The handsome tomb of Baldassare Cossa (Pope John XXIII., deposed at the

time of the Council of Constance), was reared in the Baptistery by

Donatello. The Holy of Holies is relatively modern, having been erected

at the expense of the Guild of the "Calimala," as the men who gave the

finishing touch to the woolen stuffs manufactured abroad were called.

The baptismal font, in a building specially used for christening, would,

as a matter of course, be intrusted to artists of great repute, and that

at San Giovanni is attributed to Andrea Pisano. Upon each face is

represented one of the baptisms most famous in the history of the

Catholic religion, an inscription beneath explaining each episode; but

this font is, unfortunately, so much in the background that it escapes

the notice of many visitors.

Donatello carved the wooden statue of the Magdalen which occupies one of

the niches, the thin emaciated face being typical of the artist's

partiality for reproducing in their smallest details the physical

defects of his subject. The exterior aspect of the Baptistery does not

give one the idea of a building restored in the thirteenth, but rather

in the fifteenth century.

THE PONTE VECCHIO[36]

BY CHARLES YRIARTE

Until the close of 1080 the Ponte Vecchio was built of wood, the heavy

masses of timber, tho offering no steady resistance to the stream,

dividing the muddy course of the waters into a thousand small currents,

and breaking its force. But in 1177 occurred one of those inundations

which were so frequent that traces of them may still be seen on the

walls of the quays. These inundations were one of the curses of

Florence, and tho the evil has been, to a certain extent, cured by the

construction of massive quays, they still occur in the direction of the

Cascine. An attempt was accordingly made in the twelfth century to

obviate this inconvenience by the construction of a stone bridge. This,

in turn, was carried away in 1333, and Taddeo Gaddi, who had already

made a name for himself by his architectural skill, was employed to

build a bridge capable of resisting the highest floods. The present

bridge was therefore erected in 1345, being 330 feet long by 44 wide.

With the double object of obtaining an income for the city and of

introducing a novel feature, shops were built on the two pathways, which

were 16 feet wide, and these were let to the butchers of Florence, thus

realizing the Eastern plan of concentrating the meat trade of a town in

one place. This arrangement lasted from 1422 until 1593, but in the

latter year, under Cosimo I., the "Capitani di Parte," who had the

supervision of the streets and highways, ordered that all the goldsmiths

and jewelers should take the place of the butchers, and in a few months,

the Ponte Vecchio became the wealthiest and most crowded thoroughfare of

Florence. In order to avoid shutting out a view of the stream and

interfering with the perspective, an open space had been reserved in the

center, and when the Palazzo Vecchio and the Uffizi were connected with

the Pitti Palace by means of the large covered way carried over the

bridge, this space was left intact so as to afford a view of the

eminence of San Miniato upon one side, of the windings of the stream on

the other, and of the Cascine shrubberies and the mountains upon the

horizon.

SANTA CROCE[37]

BY CHARLES YRIARTE

Built by Arnolfo, then fifty-four years of age, by order of the Friars

of St. Francis, this venerable temple was raised upon the piazza called

Santa Croce, where formerly stood a small church belonging to the order

of the Franciscan monks. They had resolved to embellish and enlarge

their church, and Cardinal Matteo D'Acquasparta, general of the

Franciscan Order, proclaimed an indulgence to all contributors toward

the undertaking. The church was far enough advanced in 1320 for services

to be held in it, tho the façade was then, as until a very recent period

it remained, a plain brick wall, without facing or any other ornament.

Santa Croce was not singular in this respect, for San Lorenzo and many

other Florentine churches have never been decorated externally.

In 1442 Cardinal Bessarion, the founder of St. Mark's Library at Venice,

was delegated to perform the ceremony of consecration. Donatello and

Ghiberti, incomplete as was the façade, executed some statues and a

stained-glass window for it, but it is only within the last few years

that the city of Florence completed the work, leaving untouched the

grand piazza which had been the scene of so many fêtes and intestine

quarrels, and upon which is now erected a statue to Dante. The façade of

Santa Croce was completed in 1863. The expense was principally borne by

Mr. Francis Sloane, an Englishman.

The interior is striking from its vast size, the church being built in

the shape of a Latin cross with nave, aisles, and transepts, each of the

seven pointed arches being supported on the octagonal column. Opposite

the front entrance is the high altar, while all around the walls and

between the side altars--erected in 1557 by Vasari by order of Cosimo

I.--are the monuments of the illustrious dead. First of all on the left

there is Domenico Sestini, a celebrated numismatist, whose bust was

carved by Pozzetti. While in the first chapel on the right is the tomb

of Michael Angelo, who died at Rome on the 17th of February, 1564; the

monument was designed by Vasari, the bust was executed by Battista

Lorenzo. Two contemporary sculptors, Valerio Cioli and Giovanni

Dell'Opera, did the allegories of Sculpture and Architecture, the

frescoes around the monument being by Battista Naldini. A nobler tomb

might well have been raised to the memory of Michael Angelo. The body

was deposited in the church on the 12th of March, 1564, and lay in

state, for the people of Florence to come and pay him the last tribute

of respect.

The next tomb is only commemorative, for it does not contain the ashes

of Dante, in whose honor it was erected in 1829 by Ricci, as a tardy

homage on the part of Florence to one who suffered so much for her sake

in life.[38]

Seeing Europe with Famous Authors, Volume 7 Italy, Sicily, and Greece (Part One) · 第 7 / 12 段