PART II

_MEMORIES_

[Illustration: _King Edward the VIIth._

_Photographed by the Author at Balmoral. October 1904._]

_Memories. :: By

Lord Redesdale, G.C.V.O., K.C.B._

_With two photogravure plates and 16 other illustrations_

VOL. II

_LONDON: HUTCHINSON & CO.

PATERNOSTER ROW ... 1915_

CONTENTS

VOL. II

CHAP. PAGE

XX.—JAPAN. AN ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY 397

XXI.—JAPAN. CIVIL WAR 413

XXII.—JAPAN. MUKASHI 435

XXIII.—JAPAN. THE MIKADO 447

XXIV.—JAPAN. SENSATION DIPLOMACY 462

XXV.—BETWIXT OLD AND NEW JAPAN 473

XXVI.—JAPAN. THE RECEPTION OF THE DUKE OF EDINBURGH 495

XXVII.—HOME AGAIN 512

XXVIII.—LORD CLARENDON AND LORD GRANVILLE 523

XXIX.—1870 551

XXX.—DAMASCUS AND RICHARD BURTON 558

XXXI.—GARIBALDI 577

XXXII.—WESTWARD 586

XXXIII.—THE MORMONS AND BRIGHAM YOUNG 614

XXXIV.—THE BLACK OPAL 640

XXXV.—LORD BEACONSFIELD 661

XXXVI.—THE OFFICE OF WORKS 683

XXXVII.—BATSFORD, AND THE HOUSE OF COMMONS 710

XXXVIII.—SIR JOSEPH HOOKER 734

XXXIX.—ANURADHAPURA 739

XL.—KING LEOPOLD II. 754

XLI.—THE VISIT OF THE FRENCH FLEET IN 1905 761

XLII.—BAYREUTH IN 1912 769

XLIII.—A LAST WORD 793

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

VOL. II

HIS MAJESTY KING EDWARD VII. (_photogravure_) _Frontispiece_

_From a photograph by the Author._

THE AUTHOR, AGED TWENTY-EIGHT _Facing page_ 398

_By Samuel Lawrence._

OLD JAPAN ” 412

_From a water-colour drawing by C. Wirgman._

OLD JAPAN ” 474

_From a water-colour drawing by C. Wirgman._

GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI ” 578

FACSIMILE INSCRIPTION BY GARIBALDI ” 580

LORD BEACONSFIELD AND LORD ROWTON ” 668

_From the “Vanity Fair” cartoon (“Spy”)._

MEMORIES

CHAPTER XX

JAPAN. AN ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY

We returned to Yedo and the next few weeks were spent in the usual

humdrum way, transacting routine business, cursing the heat and the

mosquitoes, until towards the end of July, when Sir Harry Parkes and I

started for the Island of Yesso; I, with Sir Harry Keppel in his yacht,

the _Salamis_; my chief in the _Basilisk_. It was a very interesting

trip, for apart from all else it gave me my first and only sight of the

Ainu aborigines. The business part of the trip was concerned with an

inquiry into the commerce of the western coast of Japan, and especially

with an endeavour to find some suitable port for opening to foreign

trade. And so it happened that on the 7th of August the _Salamis_, the

_Basilisk_ under Captain Hewitt, with Satow on board, and the surveying

ship _Serpent_ (Commander Bullock), were assembled in the harbour of

Nanao, a town of Noto on the west coast belonging to the principality of

Kaga, the richest noble in Japan.

The Bay of Nanao is partially closed by a small island and Sir Harry

Parkes felt that it would be valuable as a port for foreign trade—far

more useful than Niigata, with its open roadstead and treacherous bar.

As he was extremely anxious to enter into communication with the clan of

Kaga, it was arranged that two of the Prince’s councillors should come

from Kanazawa, the capital of the province, to hold a conference. There

was some delay about this and it was not until Friday, the 9th of August,

that the meeting took place.

Sir Harry used every endeavour to impress upon the Kaga representatives

the desirability of entering into friendly relations with foreigners,

as the Princes of Satsuma, Tosa and Uwajima had done; but his arguments

were of no great avail. Kaga had evidently not yet quite made up his

mind as to which side he would take in the impending struggle; the plea

put forward by his agents as a reason for not opening Nanao as a port

to foreign trade was that if they did so the Government of the Tycoon

would inevitably seize upon it, and take possession of what had been

the birthright of Kaga since remote times. The emissaries raised every

possible objection, and the more they opposed the more determined Sir

Harry was to get something out of them. At last, after giving them the

roughest edge of his tongue, which in his case meant a good deal, he said

that since they were so unfriendly he should send two of his officials,

Mr. Satow and myself, to Kanazawa and thence we should travel overland

to join him at Ōsaka. This suggestion, as may be supposed, was not very

favourably received, and the interview broke up with a little less than a

show of politeness.

When the Tycoon’s people, officers who had been detailed to help

Commander Bullock on his surveying expedition, heard that Mr. Satow

and I were to undertake this journey overland, they made a great fuss,

declared that it was impossible; that they could not be answerable for

our lives, and that on behalf of their Government they must decline

all responsibility. The Tycoon’s writ clearly did not run in such

provinces as Kaga and Echizen, through which we must pass. But these were

considerations which left Sir Harry unmoved.

Still, though he was determined to gain some knowledge of the west coast,

where no foreigners had ever penetrated, and, if possible, to establish

relations with the clans and people, he was evidently a little nervous,

for when we were taking leave of him, and the Admiral and Captain Hewitt

went so far as to express great fear of the dangers which we must face,

he tried to make out that it was our own foolhardiness which prompted

the idea. This I repudiated at once, saying that we were quite willing

to obey his orders in the matter, as a question of duty, but that we

certainly should not have thought of undertaking the journey for a whim,

which would not be fair upon our people at home. Sir Harry only laughed.

To do him justice it was just the sort of trip that he himself would have

delighted in, for where his own life was concerned he was always as big a

gambler as the ace of spades.

[Illustration: THE AUTHOR, AGED 28.

_By Samuel Lawrence._]

We landed in the afternoon. The _Salamis_ got up steam and was off. The

_Basilisk_ followed. The _Serpent_ was still lying peacefully at anchor.

That evening we spent in making ready for our start the next morning.

The Tycoon’s officers tried hard to persuade us that they must go with

us. This we stoutly resisted; they would have been absolutely worse

than useless, for they were mere underlings, they could not protect us,

and would simply be spies interfering with any possibility of friendly

intercourse with the local people.

We pointed out to them that their duty was to remain with Commander

Bullock, under whose orders they at present were. In the end after a good

deal of whining on their part that if any evil thing happened to us they

would suffer, they agreed to leave us in peace provided that we would

absolve them from all responsibility; so at last they went off to the

_Serpent_, after having taken a formal receipt from the Kaga men for our

bodies, certified safe and sound at the time of delivery!

We started on the 10th of August. With the Kaga people sulky and still

sore at the dressing which they had received the day before from our

chief, the outset was not encouraging; however, grumpiness is no feature

of the Japanese nature, and no ill-will could for long make a stand

against Satow’s pleasant and conciliatory ways, and we were soon on far

better terms with our guides than we had any right to expect.

Two smart palanquins had been provided for us and ordinary ones for

our two attendants—Satow’s retainer, a Samurai named Noguchi, and my

Chinese servant Lin Fu. A guard of twenty men armed with sword and dirk,

long staves, and a crest of two paddles crossed, the badge of the Maéda

family,[1] was to escort us, whether for show or for protection might be

reckoned uncertain. They were, at any rate, of use in steering us through

the crowds which in every small town, village, or cluster of houses were

hustling for a first place to see the strange wild beasts.

Hot as it was, so soon as we were out of the town we left the cramping

discomforts of our palanquins and walked along the pretty valley trending

in a south-westerly direction. The scenery was charming—here a lagoon,

there a long stretch of seashore, and, above all, on the east the

towering mountains of Echiu, said to be some ten thousand feet high,

veritable “hills whose heads touch heaven.” Everywhere the characteristic

forest foliage of Japan; and where is foliage more picturesquely

beautiful?

We passed along one stretch of sandy beach fringing a sea the dancing

wavelets of which were as blue as the heaven above them, just the setting

for one of those old world legends in which the Japanese delight. Such

a legend is the story of the invention of the one-stringed lute, which

might have been dear to Paganini, though it is not played with a bow. It

is true that the scene of it lay far away in another province, but it

seems to fit in here, for it came to my mind as we wandered along the

romantic shore.

Once upon a time, in the dark long ago, there was at the Court of Kiōto

a Kugé, or noble, who was dearly loved by the Son of Heaven; but he had

reason to say, “Put not your trust in princes;” like women, they are apt

to change; in the caprice of a moment, the Kugé fell into disgrace and

was banished to a lonely place called Suma, a distant village occupied by

humble fisher-folk. Days and days he spent by the seaside, mourning over

the happiness which seemed to have fled from him for ever. One morning

on the beach he spied a water-worn board, a piece of jetsam from some

perished junk which the ebbing tide had left upon the sand, and as he

looked he wondered, and said to himself, for he was well skilled in art,

“Perhaps even this poor old piece of wreck may have music in it, had I

but the skill to draw out its soul.” So he pondered and racked his brain

to think how if it were fitted with a string and bridge the intervals

should be distanced. Remaining buried in thought, he of a sudden saw a

little flight of sandpipers who came and settled upon the beach near

him, making a pattern which seemed to him to have some mystic meaning in

it, and he wondered whether if he were to copy it on his piece of board

it might be the solution of his problem. When he put it to the test he

discovered to his joy that he had found the one-stringed lute which to

this day is known as Sumagoto, the harp of Suma.

So with sweet strains he beguiled the weariness of the long, lonely

hours. Hard by was a poor fisherman’s cottage, lowly indeed, but

exquisitely clean and dainty, with a whole garden of dark blue iris in

the warmly thatched roof. The old fisherman and his wife became very

friendly with the fallen noble, and their daughter, a lovely maiden of

sixteen, would sit by the hour listening entranced by the sweetness of

his music. They loved one another and were married, and she brought the

light of her beauty and grace to charm into happiness the misery of

his banishment. And so the months sped by until one day there came a

messenger from the court to say that pity had touched the heart of the

Son of Heaven and the Kugé was to be restored to his former dignities.

But he was a faithful lover, and took his humble mate with him to Kiōto,

where she became a great lady and they lived happily ever after. And that

is the story of the harp of Suma.

But this is a digression. Through the great heat we trudged along,

stopping once in a while to rest in the pleasant coolness of some pretty

tea-house, feasting on fragrant melons and those delicious apples which

are a dainty of that countryside. Some of the inns were very attractive

and the people most polite and kindly disposed; we had no reason to

complain of our reception in Kaga. The Kaga Samurai is not a fierce

warrior like the men of Satsuma and Tosa, nor is he an astute politician

like the leaders of the Chōshiu folk. Those we met seemed to be quiet and

peaceful, perhaps a little bit slow-coaches, rich and prosperous, while

their Prince, who, as I have hinted before, was rather inclined to sit

upon the fence, held an important position in the Empire on account of

his huge wealth.

Our second day’s journey lay through very pretty scenery, past Takamatsu,

a picturesque fishing village on the seashore, to Tsubata, a flourishing

little post-town, where we found a capital inn and spent the night

refreshed by an excellent Japanese dinner.

On Monday, the 12th of August, we started at 7.45 on our third day’s

tramp, which was to bring us to Kanazawa, the Kaga capital. We rested

in a temple at a place called Morimoto, where we had the usual feast of

melons and apples. The crowds were now beginning to be enormous; our

guides were anxious that we should walk into the city, the white castle

walls of which were visible peering out of a glorious dark cloud of pine

trees about a mile away.

We, however, had become surfeited of being a raree show at Ōsaka and

elsewhere, and we were conscious that in our shabby travelling clothes

we should present anything but a dignified appearance, so we tucked

ourselves up in our palanquins with the modesty of brides. Hordes of

spectators lined the streets, and even a lotus pond which commanded

a good view of a very pretty resting-place which had been prepared

for us was full of paddlers. The sightseers were of all ages, sorts

and conditions in life, and amongst them we noticed a great number of

comely maidens, for the ladies of Kaga are good to look upon. A tortuous

course brought us to our inn, where we were received with the most

dignified courtesy and all the hospitable politeness of which Japan is

such a pattern. Our sitting-room had been strewed with a huge velvet

pile carpet, and red lacquer chairs had been brought out of a temple

for our use, our hosts not realizing that long custom had inured us to

the native fashion of squatting on the mats. Soon an envoy arrived from

the Prince, expressing anxiety for our healths on account of the great

heat and regretting that he himself was not well enough to receive us;

I answered, swearing eternal friendship with Japan and especially with

Kaga, on behalf of Sir Harry Parkes. A feast was brought in at which the

envoy presided, and soon the very smart but very uncomfortable chairs

were discarded and we were hobnobbing with the _saké_ cups according to

true Japanese etiquette. Presently the Prince’s doctors arrived offering

medical attendance, pills and potions, in case we should need them.

At that time, be it remembered, the medical profession was still under

the Chinese influence, and we should hardly have been prepared to

subscribe to its methods, among which acupuncture and the burning with

moxa held a high but painful place. So we expressed our gratitude,

pleading excellent health as an excuse for not submitting to a

consultation. A political conversation followed, which was supposed to be

absolutely confidential, though as it was carried on in the presence of

apparently anybody who chose to come in and listen, the maintenance of

its deadly secrecy was not much to be relied upon.

That, however, was not our affair; we had nothing to conceal, for the

Tycoon’s Government knew perfectly well what was the object of our visit,

and that we should do all in our power to bring about the opening of

Nanao to foreign trade. The Kaga people used the old arguments. They

were perfectly ready to admit foreign trade, but they could not agree

to their harbour being made anything more than an anchorage where goods

might be landed; the rest would follow—but they repeated that they were

in deadly fear lest the Tycoon should make an attempt to seize it. By the

time the envoy left we had become excellent friends, and Satow had made

arrangements for carrying on communications with Kanazawa from Yedo. A

great point gained, for as I have said, the clan was one to be held in

reckoning. Satow even went so far as to offer to take two Kaga men as

pupils; two of the clan, we heard, were already studying in England.

As soon as our official interview was over we set out to see the town, a

huge place, hilly and picturesquely planted, of which the size had not

been exaggerated. It was said to hold 500,000 inhabitants. We found some

excellent shops where silks and lacquer and fans (for which the town is

famous, the sticks being the special secret of a family called Suba) were

to be had at exorbitant prices; but I managed to secure a very ancient

piece of lacquer, one of the three or four best specimens that ever came

in my way, and one or two other treasures. Kutani (“The nine valleys”)

is close to Kanazawa, and as a matter of course we had to buy a few

specimens of the curious red ware for which it is famous. We also found

some capital book-shops.

The civility and kindness of all the people whom we met was beyond

praise. In the evening we received a message from the _machi-bugiyo_, the

Governor of the city, begging us to prolong our stay and to make some

excursions in the neighbouring country. The invitation was so pressing

that we could not well refuse, and so on the following day, after a

morning of shopping at prices enhanced by the intermediary of the inn

servants, who could not resist the temptation of a small squeeze, we

started on horseback for Kanaiwa, an open roadstead about four miles off.

Our saddles, of European fashion, made of paper in imitation of leather,

and the bridles, were something that must be seen to be believed. The

unshod ponies were as bad as usual, but Japan is not a horsey country.

Two resting-places had been made ready to break this five-mile ride,

and another at the end! There was not much to be seen when we reached

our destination—a sandy beach and open sea, with a tiny stream running

into it. It was not easy to guess why our kind hosts had been so keen to

show it to us. We got home again before dark. In the evening two of the

Prince’s gentlemen came in for an after-dinner chat. They talked again

about the possibility of opening Nanao to foreign trade, saying very

sensibly that it would not be well to do anything which might have the

appearance of smuggling, and that it would be best to tell the Bakufu

(Government of the Tycoon) that if foreign vessels were admitted there

would surely be a certain amount of goods exchanged. We urged them to

write in that sense to Yedo. We then started upon general politics. Their

view as to the state of parties at that moment was that the Bakufu ought

to be supported on general principles, but that its power should be kept

within bounds. We talked on till late into the night, my conviction

still being that Kaga had not at that time any determined policy. It was

obvious that there was no leading influential man such as those whom

we knew in other clans. I handed them a letter of thanks for all the

kindness which we had received, which Satow translated into Japanese; and

they took their leave with great courtesy.

The following morning (August 14) we started off again after a most

friendly leave-taking, everybody begging us to come again. Our host

begs us to stop at a medicine shop kept by his father-in-law to buy a

wonderful drug called _shisetsu_, made of nitre and musk, a panacea for

all the ills to which flesh is heir. The crowds were as thick as ever,

with many very attractive young ladies. From our first resting-place we

looked back upon the great city where we had been so kindly received,

and saw the castle, typical of a feudalism that was so near its end,

standing with its high white towers on rising ground, lording it over the

burghers’ houses below, among the pine trees with which the whole town is

planted. A striking and picturesque view, and a happy memory, the value

of which is enhanced by that patina in which time enwraps all beautiful

things.

The rest of our journey through the province of Kaga was not very

eventful. Wherever we went we were met with the same gracious and

unexpected kindness that had made our stay at Kanazawa so pleasant. We

could not help being struck by the great prosperity of the country. We

passed through such towns as Mattō, with two thousand houses, Komatsu,

with two thousand five hundred, all under the mild rule of the Prince of

Kaga, and a happier people it would be difficult to find.

On the 15th we reached the frontier of Echizen, where to the outspoken

indignation of our Kaga friends, a petty official, a mere understrapper,

had been sent to meet us. Here again the Kaga people exacted from the

Echizen men a receipt for our bodies. I wonder how it was worded? Item,

received, two English officials, sound in wind and limbs, etc.? I should

have liked to have seen the document.

It pretty soon became evident that although the Echizen people were ready

to entertain us, and even to go to considerable expense in so doing, we

must not look for any real friendship. It was, no doubt, kind to give us

champagne and to provide smart pages of honour to fan us in the great

heat—small gentlemen who reminded one of the dear little boys who waited

upon the great Lord Cardinal when the wicked jackdaw of Reims stole his

ring, but there was no show of civility, and in Fukui, the capital, such

persons of gentle birth as flocked to the temple of Honguanji, where we

were, to tell the truth, magnificently lodged, only came to crowd the

passages and stare at us as if we had been gorillas. The intentional

rudeness was unmistakable. The Prince of Echizen was at that time

notoriously opposed to all foreign intercourse, and his feelings were

reflected in the conduct of his people.

On the 17th we crossed the Echizen boundary, glad to be quit of an

unfriendly and surly people, who again handed us over against a formal

receipt to the representatives of Ii Kamon no Kami. On the following

day we reached Nagahama, a place which had been visited by Sir Harry

Parkes and his party in May, so we were no longer a novelty and attracted

little attention, which was a mercy. Here we were met by an officer of

the Tycoon with a guard of eighteen of the Bettégumi (foreign guards),

which very much robbed the journey of its interest, for under the eyes

and ears of the Bakufu it was of course out of the question to hold any

familiar intercourse with the people of the various places through which

we might pass. This day we came to a place called Yanagosé, where there

was a curious institution, a _sekisho_, or barrier, which no woman might

go through without a passport. Talk about women’s rights!

On the 20th of August we reached Kasatsu, where we proposed to remain

for the afternoon to enable me to write up my report, which was bound

to be rather a long affair, for we had gathered together a formidable

budget of political and commercial information—now, after nearly half a

century crowded with stirring events, altogether obsolete, but at that

time full of interest. Here we met two or three officials with whom Satow

was acquainted, and with whom, after dinner, we were engaged until past

midnight in the usual discussions about politics, which, when held with

persons connected with the Bakufu, were as tedious as they were vapid.

More interesting, and as it turned out more fortunate for us, was the

interminable wrangle about the road which we were to take on the morrow.

We had determined on taking the shortest cut to Ōsaka, through Ōtsu, a

little town at the further end of the Biwa lake. The Japanese officials

were equally determined that we should not go to Ōtsu at all, making

every sort of difficulty, obviously on account of its proximity to Kiōto,

the sacred city. As a bait they offered to show us the famous temple of

Ishiyama, which had been closed to Sir Harry. We were obstinate, Satow

not a little suspicious at this great eagerness to take us sightseeing,

and quite appreciating what the real object was. The landlord of the

inn put in a word: “If the gentlemen are so eager to obtain commercial

information, why don’t they go to see the famous Uji tea-district? That

will be of great interest to them, whereas there is nothing to see at

Ōtsu.” We stuck to our guns, and expressed our unalterable decision to

take the nearest road by Ōtsu. We told them that we knew quite well what

they were driving at, and that they had been sent on purpose to play this

trick upon us; that if they had been candid with us we might have agreed,

but in the circumstances, No! They seemed very much crestfallen, but

returned to the charge.

At last I lost patience, and turning suddenly round, told them that if

they would write me an official letter explicitly stating their reasons,

I would go by Uji, if not, guard or no guard, we would go through

Ōtsu. After a little grumbling, they agreed to write such a letter,

and went away to draft it. No fewer than three drafts were rejected

as inadmissible, because they stated that we had not the Government

permission to travel, which as diplomatists we had a right to do, and

otherwise confused the issue; but at last they brought a satisfactory

letter, in which they said that great complications had arisen at Kiōto

on account of Sir Harry’s passing through in May, and they begged us

therefore as a favour to go by Uji. It was a hard-won triumph for us.

I have dwelt upon this midnight parley at Kusatsu at greater length than

would have been justifiable had it not been for its consequences.

When we reached Ōsaka two days later, Noguchi, Satow’s Samurai attendant,

went to a tea-house in the city in which he overheard a party of men

belonging to the Tosa clan, in a compartment separated from him by a

paper screen, telling of their disappointment at having the day before

missed the chance of murdering the two foreigners who were defiling the

neighbourhood of the sacred city. It appeared that a band of four hundred

men of the Tosa, Satsuma and Chōshiu clans had gone out to Ōtsu to lie in

wait for us. Had we taken the route which we proposed, through Ōtsu, we

should have been dead men. It was a narrow escape; a very near thing!

The fun of the thing was that the Japanese officials, in persuading us to

change our route, had not the remotest suspicion of what they were saving

us from.

Weeks afterwards I heard the whole story confirmed by Gotō Shōjirō. He

was at the time _rusui_, or agent in charge of the _yashiki_ (palace) of

the Prince of Tosa at Kiōto, and heard of the plot which he did all in

his power to stop. But his men broke out of the _yashiki_, determined to

wreak their hatred of foreigners on us. Gotō’s name must appear often

in these recollections; he became one of my best friends in Japan, and

risked his own life in the attack upon the Legation, when we were on our

way to the Mikado’s Court in the following year—as I shall presently

relate.

August 21st.—We left Kusatsu at 5.45 a.m. The heat was appalling; what

with mosquitoes and discussions we had had but scanty sleep; moreover

we had for the last day or two had little food, save rice with tea,

of which we could not eat our fill, for the condiments with which the

Japanese encourage their appetite for rice were as salt as brine, and to

us impossible. Partly by river, and partly on the tramp, stopping every

now and then to wash out our mouths, through beautiful scenery with a

glorious view of the great plain in which lie Kiōto and Fushimi—the

place of the thrilling memories of the civil war—we reached Uji at four

o’clock, very much done up with the heat and very tired.

As for the famous Temple of Ishiyama, which was to be the reward of our

listening to the blandishments of our friends of the night before, it

had been hermetically sealed to us, and all our knocking at the door

brought no answer. Seven years afterwards, on board a steamer in the

Pacific, I met a Japanese gentleman who had been present and had watched

our discomfiture and vain knockings. We bought a little tea at Uji, as

a matter of course; and at six o’clock got into a comfortable houseboat

in which we drifted down the stream, resting and looking back upon the

entrancing view. Toward morning we fell asleep.

August 22nd at 5.30 a.m. we were in sight of the glorious old Castle of

Ōsaka, and landing at six, took up our quarters in our old temple in

the Nakadéramachi. So our venturesome eleven days’ journey came to an

end; it had been intensely interesting and exciting. We never knew what

might happen; when we lay down at night we blessed our luck that there

had been no mischance, and when the morning came we pinched ourselves to

see whether we were really still alive: there were so many wandering

anti-foreign fanatics throughout the country, against whom even our kind

Kaga friends could not have protected us! However, it all ended well, and

we were successful in gaining all the information that our chief wanted.

Unfortunately the interest of our expedition paled before a tragedy. For

at five Sir Harry Parkes arrived with the news of the cruel murder of two

bluejackets of H.M.S. _Icarus_. They had been literally hacked to pieces

by a party of brawling Samurai. These poor fellows’ fate brought home to

us the danger to which we had so nearly fallen victims.

This murder led to endless interviews and discussions, which were

complicated by the fact that our people were on the wrong tack. There was

a suspicion that the murderers were Samurai of the Tosa clan—a suspicion

born of the fact that a small steamer and a sailing vessel belonging to

Tosa had slipped secretly out of Nagasaki harbour before daylight on the

morning after the crime had been committed. It was afterwards proved that

they belonged to a quite different clan, which was duly punished later.

But the chief murderer had previously committed suicide by _hara-kiri_.

The discussions served to make us better acquainted and increased our

respect for Gotō Shōjirō, who represented his Prince and who proved

himself to be a man of first-rate ability, quite able to hold his own

against our rather peppery chief—not an easy man to discuss matters with.

He turned out to be one of the three or four ablest men who engineered

the revolution. Like the famous Saigo, of Satsuma, and others of the

leaders in the various clans, Gotō expressed himself as keenly anxious to

establish a Gi-ji-in, or parliament. That did not come about until some

eighteen months later, and when it did ripen into being it turned out to

be a very embryonic affair.

Mercifully for Japan, speech-making had never played the same part in her

public life that it has done in some other countries, and the Parliament

started more like a debating society in a public school than a grave

assembly of legislators, which, as a matter of fact, they were not. They

might register their opinions, but they could not enact laws.

August 31st.—Satow and myself had been invited by the Prince of Awa

to go and pay him a visit at his castle in the Island of Shikoku (“the

four countries,” so called from the principalities of Awa, Tosa, Sanuki

and Iyo into which it was divided). Had the visit taken place as it was

originally meant, we should no doubt have been able over the wine-cups

to gather a good deal of information as to the attitude of the four

clans in the crisis, together with a good many particulars in regard to

the personalities of their leading men. But unfortunately at the last

moment Sir Harry Parkes insisted on going too, with the Admiral and

their respective staffs, in the _Salamis_ and the _Basilisk_; so the

whole expedition was spoilt, and degenerated into a sort of official

demonstration, at which the usual stale old political platitudes were

served up—perfectly useless discussions, in which sincerity was apt to

play a very meagre part on both sides. The weather, moreover, played us

every conceivable trick by which to make us uncomfortable.

The Prince, however, was very kind and courteous, and he had prepared

a most amusing theatrical entertainment for us, in which his retainers

acted with great spirit. They were dressed in the long trousers worn

at Court, but did not wear the _yéboshi_ (black lacquer cap). The plot

of the first piece, which consisted of three characters, the master, a

servant and a guest, was very funny. The master tells his servant to

imitate him in everything that he does, and the servant takes the order

literally, and passes on to the guest everything that the master says to

him. The enraged master cuffs the servant, who passes the thrashing on to

the guest, and so it goes on—a series of practical jokes like the “spill

and pelt” scene in a pantomime, until the master’s patience is exhausted

and he finally kicks the servant out.

Then came what was a sort of Oriental first-cousin to Offenbach’s _Les

Deux Aveugles_. A man advertises for persons deprived by nature of their

senses or limbs to enter his service. In answer to this there arrive a

lame man, a dumb man, and a blind man—all these parts capitally acted.

These three cripples are ruined gamblers who have adopted their disguises

as beggars to get employment. The great man accepts them, and having

placed them in charge of three storehouses, goes out. The men recognize

one another and propose to go to the storehouse where the _saké_ is

kept and have a drink, after which they may divide the money in the

treasure-house. Of course they get roaring drunk, and by the time the

master comes back each has forgotten his part. The blind man becomes

dumb, the lame man blind, and the dumb man is afflicted with deafness.

The exposure of the impostors is full of fun.

After the play—the wine-cup and bibulous affection. The Prince of Awa

swears that he is the Admiral’s son and elder brother to Sir Harry

Parkes; Awaji no Kami, the Prince’s son, claims intimate relationship

with Satow.

The next day there was a review of some five hundred men in a sort of

tatterdemalion European dress, some with boots, some without, those who

had them being as “justly vain” as Sir Plume “of amber snuff-box and the

nice conduct of a clouded cane.” The drill was capital.

In the evening I left for Yedo in the _Salamis_ with the Admiral. Satow

went to Sasaki in Tosa with Sir Harry to investigate the case of the

_Icarus_ murders. The Tosa people, who, as I have said, were ultimately

proved to be innocent, with Gotō as spokesman, took up a very dignified

position. Yōdo (the _de facto_ ruler of the clan, though he had nominally

become _inkiyō_ (retired) whom Satow visited) declared that if his men

were proved guilty he would punish them; if they were innocent nothing

should stir him from his line of conduct. It must have been galling to

Sir Harry to be told by Gotō that he was allowing his temper to get the

better of his discretion. A dignified demeanour is the only attitude

to observe with the Japanese, who, whatever their faults may be, are

gentlemen to their finger-tips. Bluster does not succeed, but that was a

lesson which our chief, with all his great qualities, never learned, and

in this case he was completely worsted.

Satow remained at Nagasaki till the 7th of November, so I was all alone

at Yedo in my little temple Monriuin. As a precaution I had the walks

all round the garden strewn with cockle-shells to sound an alarm in the

event of there being any unwelcome visitors after dark. One night I was

awakened about twelve o’clock by the crunching of my faithful guardian

cockles. I jumped up and lighted candles and lamps, roused the servants,

gave my sword and revolver to my Chinese servant, Lin Fu, upon whom I

could depend, and stood at the chief door with my Spencer rifle. The

ruffians, seeing that we were ready for them, made off. There were five

or six of them, as I knew, for it had been raining heavily and the

following morning I found the marks in the grass where they had slid in a

sitting position down the little hill, which was deeply scored with their

posteriors and heels—mighty unpleasant! I was too near the evilly-reputed

wine-shops of Shinagawa, famous like the wynds of Old Edinburgh for

brawls between the clans, and as the haunts of the Jō-i, the fanatics

opposed to foreign intercourse.

Another time, as I was leaving home in the morning to go to the

Legation, I saw the dead body of a Samurai lying in a pool of blood

outside my gate. It was covered with a piece of matting, but the head

had been carried off to be deposited, according to the strict rules of

_Kataki-uchi_ (vendetta), upon the grave of an enemy killed by last

night’s victim in some previous quarrel.

These were quite everyday occurrences in the Yedo of what the Japanese

now call “the olden time” (_mukashi_)—that is the period before the

revolution, only forty-eight years ago!

Meantime, although there was no great outward show politically, the

underground fires of revolution were silently gathering strength. The

Tycoon had resigned his office—in fact abolished it—though he still in

some inconsistent way claimed to be conducting affairs, and of course

remained at the head of the Tokugawa clan. The Daimios, with Satsuma,

Chōshiu and Tosa at their head, were said to be arming, and even to have

established a camp at Ōsaka. The Tosa people asserted that the Tycoon,

in his resignation, had only followed the advice contained in a memorial

from their clan, dated in October, which they showed to Satow. The

document advocated the establishment of a Parliament consisting of an

upper and lower house, the erection of schools of science and learning

in the great cities, and the negotiation of new foreign treaties. The

emissaries of the Daimios were more than ever keen to obtain instruction

in Parliamentary procedure. They were evidently all anxiety to stand well

with us.

[Illustration: OLD JAPAN.

_From a water-colour drawing by C. Wirgman._]

CHAPTER XXI

JAPAN. CIVIL WAR

On the 30th of November at daylight, Satow and I, in our usual characters

as diplomatic stormy petrels, sailed for Ōsaka to make all preparations

for the opening of that city and Hiōgo on the first day of that new year

which was to come big with the birth of a new power and fraught with

events as momentous, perhaps, as any that the history of the world has

seen. We reached Ōsaka on the 3rd of December, and were at once plunged

in the political whirlpool. Besides that we had to prepare quarters

for the Minister and his staff and the mounted escort, with fifty men

of the 9th Regiment. Much building of palisades, bonded warehouses,

custom houses, etc., was going on at what was to be the future foreign

settlement. This was going a little too fast, and we had to put a stop

to any further work until the Ministers should arrive. They might have

a good deal to say upon the subject, especially as to the palisades,

which were not a very encouraging indication of the intentions of the

Government to promote intercourse between West and East.

On the 7th we had an interview with members of the Tycoon’s Council of

State who were on their way to Yedo, and whom he had ordered to see us.

We did not get much information out of them except that the Tycoon’s

resignation was merely the carrying out of an intention formed long ago.

We were not convinced, nor were we shaken in our belief that he had been

driven to it by the persistent attitude of the clans.

On the 12th of December we had to leave for Hiōgo in order to see what

preparations were being made there for the great event. We found that

the people were in high spirits at the prospect of the opening of the

port. In Kōbé, where the foreign settlement was to be, there had been

seven days of feasting and merry-making, and there had been processions

of people dressed in red crape with carts which were supposed to carry

earth for the site of the new settlement. Similar fêtes were in prospect

in the town of Hiōgo itself. The people obviously saw that foreign trade

would spell prosperity for them.

When we got back to Ōsaka on the 13th, we found the city in an uproar

of joy and excitement. It appeared that all this was in honour of a

miraculous shower which had recently taken place of slips of paper

bearing the titles of the Gods of Isé—the ancestral shrine of Old Japan

and the chief place of the Shintō cult. Thousands and thousands of happy

fanatics were dancing along the streets dressed in holiday garb of red

and blue crape and carrying red lanterns on their heads, shouting till

they must have been hoarse, “I ja nai ka, i ja nai ka!” “How delightful,

how delightful!” The houses were decorated with many-coloured cakes,

oranges, silken bags, emblematic ropes of straw such as are hung before

the Shintō shrines, and a profusion of flowers.

It was a weird and wonderful sight, such as, maybe, will never be seen

again; and yet folk-lore and old reverences die hard. Even though all

this should be _mukashi_, as much so as the mysteries of Stonehenge are

to us, one may hope that it may yet have some life in it. “Le respect du

passé est la piété filiale des peuples,” was a fine saying of the Duc de

Broglie; one which, in these degenerate days, I never weary of quoting,

and we foreigners must not forget what the Japanese owe to the Yamato

Damashii, the spirit of old Japan. It is upon the legends of the Shintō

that it is founded. Then let the simple folk, “the hundred names,” dance

like David before the Ark, in honour of showers of paper, for to them

they mean the sacred traditions of a glorious past, and upon these is

based a heroism before which the world has bowed its head in admiration.

No sooner were we back in Ōsaka than the old political conversations

began again. Satsuma, Chōshiu, Tosa, Uwajima and Geishiu were solid for

a change; other Daimios inclined to join, but vacillating. One thing we

were clearly given to understand: if the intrigues now going on at Kiōto

failed, the Daimios would revert to the old game of murderous attacks

upon foreigners, not from any dislike of foreign intercourse, of which

they were indeed in favour, but simply in order to embroil the Tycoon

with the Treaty Powers. The obvious answer to this was that whatever

might happen in that way, the Tycoon could not be held responsible for

the action of persons over whom he, as they admitted, had no control!

The arrival of leading men in Ōsaka, so near Kiōto, at this time was very

significant. Saigo, the famous Satsuma general, who died years afterwards

by _hara-kiri_ in the rebellion of his clan, and Gotō Shōjirō were very

conspicuous figures. The latter talked a great deal about the scheme to

murder Satow and myself at Ōtsu in August and gave us many particulars.

It was a merciful escape.

Letters from Yedo showed that there the demolition of the Bakufu was an

accomplished fact. On the 20th we had an interview with Ito Shunské,

which is worth noting because it was one of our first communications

with a man, then in a humble position, who afterwards, as Prince Ito,

became the most powerful political personage in Japan. He told us that

war was quite inevitable, the object being to deprive the Tycoon of his

territory, which was far too large for the peace of the country. He would

have preferred to put off the arrival of the Foreign Representatives

and the opening of the ports, but when he was told that this was out of

the question, he said that in that case the opening must take place in

order to keep foreigners quiet whilst the plans for the reformation of

the country went on. We both warned him that if, in the course of the

revolution, foreigners were attacked or any attempt should be made to

upset the Treaties, the Japanese would be bringing upon themselves a very

grave responsibility. He admitted the force of this and promised to keep

Satow posted as to any movement that might be on foot.

On the 24th Sir Harry Parkes arrived with the other members of the

Legation, and took possession of the quarters which we had prepared in

a great tumbledown _Yashiki_ behind the castle; not perhaps the safest

place in case trouble should arise, for fighting would be focussed upon

the stronghold, but all things considered, the best that could be had.

Satow and myself were now very much more under observation than we had

been, and it was not easy to keep up our communications with the Daimios

party. The Tycoon’s guard kept a pretty sharp look-out, but we managed

to defeat them by climbing over the walls of the Legation buildings at

night, and joining our friends outside, who led us by tortuous ways to

one or other of their _Yashikis_ where we were able to confer with them

comfortably. In this way, like a couple of boys breaking out to rob a

neighbour’s apple-orchard, we contrived to keep our chief posted as to

what was going on; practical, but hardly very dignified. The end must be

held as justification for the means.

The 1st of January, 1868, was really the birthday of the new

dispensation. Up to this time, for many months, the country had been in

a fever of unrest; there had been plots and counterplots, conspiracies

and intrigues of which I have tried to give some indication, though

their details would fill volumes; there had been the resignation, or

sham resignation, of the Tycoon; there had been a gradual massing of

troops near Kiōto: the Prince of Chōshiu, who had been in disgrace, had

been forgiven, save the mark! by the Tycoon, and the Prince of Aidzu

was said to have resigned the guardianship of the palace as a sign of

his resentment of this leniency—but the report was not true, as will

be seen presently: the witch’s cauldron was seething and boiling, but

so far the peace had not actually been broken; the Daimios were still

protesting that their object was only to curb the Tycoon and restrain an

overwhelming power which had been abused.

We began to feel that the dogs of war were loose. We learned that the

Prince of Satsuma had proposed the abolition of the Tycoon and the

other old officers of State, substituting for them something analogous

to a Constitutional Government with Secretaries of State and the whole

machinery of an executive; a proposal in which we could not but recognize

the reflection of hints which, at his request, Satow and I had given

to Gotō Shōjirō. Satsuma’s views met with great opposition, many men

dreading such Radical ideas as perhaps likely to end by threatening

the kingship of the Mikado himself. Our informant said that this was no

matter for argument, it must be decided by war. The Tycoon, he admitted,

would raise no difficulties, being bent on preserving the peace of the

country at whatever cost to himself. But he could not control his people.

Things were now moving at lightning speed and every day brought some

new development. Rumours came flying fast and furious—some true, some

garbled, some false—but all pointing in one direction.

On the 7th of January an official of the Bakufu came to tell us that the

Tycoon had left Kiōto and was on his way to Ōsaka to have an interview

with M. Roches. This naturally was a mere pretext; as a matter of fact he

was leaving Kiōto because his office had come to an end. The Aidzu men

who had charge of the nine gates of the Mikado’s palace had been ousted

by Imperial command and the sacred precincts and the Emperor himself were

in the hands of the coalition Daimios. Practically the end had come.

Satow and I went out to see what was going on. We found the streets

being patrolled by soldiers with field pieces placed so as to sweep

the approaches to the castle. It was bitterly cold and the men had

their heads wrapped in mufflers—a curious addition to the pomp and

circumstance of uniform. The Aidzu people, who were posted about, told

us that the reason for the Tycoon’s withdrawal was his unwillingness to

allow fighting to take place near the precincts of the palace—a sort of

“Star Chamber” reason. They said that Satsuma wanted to do everything by

force—so like that martial clan! Tosa, on the other hand, was all for

proceeding by reason; but in either case the object was the same. As for

Gotō’s scheme for a Constitution, Japan was not ripe for that: the change

would be too sudden and too violent.

In the afternoon it became evident that the Tycoon was now close by. We

saw wonderful groups of men clad in armour. They were very civil and full

of patriotic declarations of readiness to die in the Tycoon’s cause, and

indeed, as events proved, these were no empty boasts. They were beaten,

but not before hundreds of Tokugawa men had died the death of heroes.

Presently the bugles sounded and we saw a long procession of troops

coming towards the castle.

A more extravagantly weird picture it would be difficult to imagine.

There were some infantry armed with European rifles, but there were also

warriors clad in the old armour of the country carrying spears, bows and

arrows, falchions, curiously shaped, with sword and dirk, who looked

as if they had stepped out of some old pictures of the Gem-Pei wars in

the Middle Ages. Their _jimbaoris_, not unlike heralds’ tabards, were

as many-coloured as Joseph’s coat. Hideous masks of lacquer and iron,

fringed with portentous whiskers and moustachios, crested helmets with

wigs from which long streamers of horsehair floated to their waists,

might strike terror into any enemy. They looked like the hobgoblins of a

nightmare. Soon a troop of horsemen appeared. The Japanese all prostrated

themselves and bent their heads in reverent awe. In the midst of the

troop was the fallen Prince, accompanied by his faithful adherents, Aidzu

and Kuwana. The Prince himself seemed worn and dejected, looking neither

to the right nor to the left, his head wrapped in a black cloth, taking

notice of nothing. Some of those with him recognized us and returned

our salutes. It was a wild and wonderful sight and one of the saddest

that I ever beheld. At the gate all dismounted, according to custom—save

only the War Lord himself; he rode in, a solitary horseman. It was the

last entry of a Shōgun into the grand old castle which had come into the

heritage of the Tokugawa by one tragedy, and was to pass out of their

possession by another. In each case fire, “the calamity of the dancing

horse,”[2] played its cruel part.

Sir Harry Parkes at once asked for an appointment to see the Shōgun on

the following day, which was declined; but hearing that M. Roches was

to be received, our chief was not to be held; he insisted upon making

his way in, with Satow and me—to the outspoken disgust of the French

colleague—and the two ministers were received together—not without some

recriminations and angry words between them. The Shōgun, or rather

ex-Shōgun, as he now was, seemed greatly depressed; he was a very

different man from the handsome, proud noble who had received us with

so much dignity in the preceding May. The many troubles, sorrows and

indignities which he had undergone were written in his face. He repeated

the old story of his having left Kiōto from patriotic motives, in order

to avoid civil war, which would be waged almost in the sacred presence

of the Emperor. He said that he should remain in Ōsaka, but did not

know whether he would be attacked. As to the existing order of things,

he said that the Mikado nominally ruled, but that Kiōto was occupied by

an unruly set of men, who did nothing but quarrel among themselves and

had no notion of governing. The two ministers applauded his action—the

Frenchman in fulsome language, Sir Harry in more measured terms. There

was obviously nothing much to be drawn from him, and as he complained of

feeling tired, the rather barren conference came to an end.

That evening Sir Henry Keppel, who, with my old friend, his flag

lieutenant (now Admiral Sir Henry Stephenson, Black Rod), and that

grand sailor and gallant gentleman, Captain Chandos Scudamore Stanhope,

of H.M.S. _Ocean_,[3] was on shore, insisted on my going off with him

to Hiōgo to sleep on board the _Rodney_, and hear the band play. It

was blowing great guns, and I felt pretty certain that the perfidious

bar which I knew only too well would be dangerous if not impassable. I

told this to the Admiral, but he pooh-poohed the objections of a mere

landsman, and said that I “did not know what a steam-launch could do.” So

off we went with a second boat in tow. Darkness set in, and by the time

we reached the mouth of the river it was black night.

The wind was howling like Bedlam; the sea was terrific; now and then

there was a rift in the clouds, and we could see the mockery of the

wicked moon shining luridly through the ugly green waves which towered

over us, hungry to swallow us up; we expected to go under any minute.

It soon became evident that we must cast off the boat which we were

towing; there was no other chance for her, and our desertion saved her.

Captain Stanhope took the helm, keeping the launch’s bows to the beating

seas; as he stood in the stern with his teeth set, a grim statue, as if

he had been carved in stone, he was splendid. There was one specially

evil moment, when the Admiral turned to me and said: “I don’t know what

you think, but I have never seen death so near.” This coming from the

hero of the Fatshan Creek—when his coxswain had his telescope driven

into his stomach, his boat was sunk and five of his crew killed—the old

sea warrior, who had survived heaven knows how many deadly fights with

the wild head-hunters and pirates of Borneo—was not reassuring. Stanhope

gave a sort of ghastly grin, but he went on doing battle with the demons

in the waves; it was a tough fight, but at last he managed to bring us

alongside a French man-of-war, the _Laplace_, which was lying in the

roads, with H.M. surveying ship _Sylvia_ about a mile away. We hung on to

the Frenchman; the officers were very kind to us; they lowered sardines

and biscuits and mulled claret to us—the latter most acceptable, for we

were up to our waists in water, drenched to the skin and half-frozen.

They tried to send a chair down to hoist us on board, but the sea was

running so high that it was impossible; the chair and its occupant would

have been dashed to pieces against the ship’s side. So there we remained,

being played cup and ball with for five hours; at last there came a

slight—a very slight—lull in the storm; the Admiral determined to avail

himself of it in order to make the _Sylvia_; it was a critical moment,

for we had to turn in the trough of the sea and a second too late would

have been fatal; had we shipped a wave our fires would have gone out,

and then! But Stanhope was not the man to make a mistake; we danced on

to the curled crest of the preceding wave, and after a struggle for life

reached the _Sylvia_; by that time there was some further abatement of

the weather, and we were able to be hoisted up one by one into safety and

the joy of sleep between hot blankets, after a steaming and strong glass

of grog.

When we reached Hiōgo on the next afternoon, we were met by the news that

the United States Admiral Bell, with his flag lieutenant and all his

boat’s crew, had been drowned on the bar in the same storm. The English

newspapers made a muddle between the two Admirals, and in London we were

reported lost.[4]

On the 10th I had to go back to Ōsaka with despatches for Sir Harry. I

was sent in a steam launch commanded by Lieutenant Leventhorpe. The storm

had hardly abated. The wind was still raging furiously. The impression of

the night of the 8th, heightened by the death of Admiral Bell, was upon

me, and I confess that I did not like it! But we all had on life-belts,

and we got past the bar in safety. Still our troubles were not over, for

as we neared the castle, we saw that one of the bridges was crowded with

a very hostile mob, some of whom were making ready to sink our launch

with a huge block of stone. In the nick of time our coxswain saw it, gave

the boat’s nose a twist, and the great rock splashed harmlessly into

the waves within a couple of feet of us. Some forty years later I had a

very nice letter from that good fellow, who had done us such excellent

service, asking me whether I remembered the occurrence, and the glee with

which I called out to him, “Well done, coxswain!”

When I reached Ōsaka on the evening of the 10th I found that on

that afternoon a conference had taken place between the Foreign

Representatives and the ex-Shōgun, as he now was, on the invitation

of the latter, who was desirous of making a statement on the present

condition of affairs. In the meantime it should be mentioned that

following the example of his own officials, he was no longer addressed by

his former high-sounding titles, but simply as Uyé-sama, which I should

translate by “Highness.”

Great interest attaches to this address, for it contained internal

evidence that it was his own composition and new even to those of his

advisers who were present, for the gentlemen of the Foreign Office,

who feared to see their occupation gone and themselves reduced to the

condition of “the hundred names,” could hardly suppress their surprise

and joy when he announced that he would continue to direct foreign

affairs. Their pleasure, however, was fated to be short-lived. The

statement ran as follows:

“My ancestor, Iyéyasu, settled the form of government in Japan

in its fundamental principles and all its details; for upwards

of two centuries there has been no one, from the Emperor down

to the humblest of the people, who has not paid respect to

his virtue, or who has not reaped the benefit of his good

intentions. But the world has changed. Since the conclusion

of the treaties with Foreign Powers it has been impossible

not to be aware of certain shortcomings in laws which, up to

that time, had been held to be all-sufficient and good. From

the first moment when I succeeded my predecessor I felt this,

and determined, in collaboration with Kiōto, to introduce a

reformation of these laws. Inspired by an honest love for my

country, and for the people, I laid down the Power which I had

inherited, and with the understanding on the other hand that I

should call a meeting of all the Princes of the country, with

a view to discussing the matter from the point of view of a

reform of the constitution for the public weal, and deciding it

by the vote of the majority, I placed the conduct of affairs in

the hands of the Imperial Court.

“In order to the fulfilment of this great work, my resignation

of the government was accepted by His Highness the Regent,

who had been appointed by the late Emperor as protector and

adviser of the young Ruler and by several of the Princes of the

blood and Nobles of the Court; at the same time I received the

Imperial command to carry on the government as before, until a

decision of the assembly of territorial Lords should be arrived

at. I waited for this assembly and was firmly resolved to take

part in it. In the most unexpected way, however, one morning

several Princes broke into the Palace with an armed force,

drove out His Highness the Regent, who had been appointed by

the Emperor, together with the Princes of the blood and the

Nobles of the Court, introducing in their stead certain Nobles

who had been banished by the dead Emperor, and abolished

the office of Shōgun, without waiting for the decision of

the proposed general meeting of the Council. My Hatamotos”

(petty nobles of the Tycoon’s court) “and vassal Princes were

profoundly indignant, and pressed upon me day and night the

absolute necessity of resisting by force of arms a crime which

broke the laws and set at nought the will of the people. But

inasmuch as my original intention in laying down the government

had been to assure the union of all classes of the people, such

exaggerated zeal was in contradiction to the determination

which I had adopted.

“Whatever my rights might be I would not be the cause of a

national revolution. It is with a view to avoiding such an

unhappy disturbance of the peace that I have come to Ōsaka.

My reasons for this procedure are not those which superficial

observers might presuppose. When I consider this criminal

proceeding from the point of view of love for my country and

its people, I cannot look with indifference upon the fact that

they have made themselves masters of the person of the young

Emperor, and under the pretext of the Imperial will, have given

the reins to their own egotistical desires, bringing suffering

upon the people. This is a complication which I am bound to

disentangle for the benefit of my people. Should there be any

people who disagree with me, I shall endeavour to persuade

them to bow to a majority of a general assembly and to pray

earnestly for a successful government of the country. Sharing

as I do the zeal of my ancestor, Iyéyasu, in his love for

the people, and striving with all my might to carry out the

intentions left behind him by the dead Emperor, I am inspired

by the earnest desire to unite my strength with that of the

whole nation, to carry out with all right and wisdom the task

which I have set myself, and to give effect to the views of the

assembly.

“There is no need for the Powers with which we have concluded

treaties of amity to trouble themselves about our internal

affairs. All that is of importance is that they should not

hinder the course of just principles. Insomuch as I have

loyally observed all the conditions of the treaties, I hope

all the more to deserve your approbation if I protect the

interests of all the Powers. You will, moreover, understand

that until the form of government shall have been settled by

a general discussion in an assembly of the people, it is my

duty to observe the treaties, and to carry out the agreements

which have been come to with Foreign Powers, and in general to

maintain relations with abroad.” (See Herr von Brandt’s “Drei

und dreissig Jahre in Ost Asien,” Vol. II., p. 170.)

After this remarkable address, which seems to me to be of sufficient

interest to be given in full, the leave-taking was preceded by an

anti-climax of the usual platitudes.

In the meantime the Daimios were becoming more and more united, and

were pressing for the Tycoon’s reply to the proposal that he should

surrender to the Mikado property to the value of two million Kokus of

rice, in order to form the nucleus of a national revenue. Tosa and other

chieftains proposed that they should follow suit, but Satsuma, not yet

quite educated up to the glories of self-sacrifice, was said to shy at

this idea, for which the time was not quite ripe; yet only a few more

months were needed for its consummation.

The next few days were full of interest, though there was nothing more

to be got out of the Uyésama, who by pertinacious questions about the

British Constitution adroitly parried all attempts on the part of Sir

Harry Parkes to draw him. In the meanwhile Satow and myself continued

our surreptitious visits to the Satsuma Yashiki, where we met important

men who had been sent down from Kiōto to confer with us. We had but one

doctrine to preach: let the Mikado invite the Foreign Representatives to

audience at Kiōto, and himself take over the direction of Foreign Affairs.

The news from Yedo was as bad as could be. A Satsuma Princess, widow of

the last Tycoon but one, had been spirited away by the Satsuma clansmen

in Yedo, upon which the Tycoon’s people retaliated by burning the three

Satsuma Yashikis in that city. The clansmen took refuge in a steamer

belonging to their Prince and put to sea with the Tycoon’s ships in hot

pursuit. This resulted in an insignificant sea action.

Two of our student interpreters, Messrs. Quin and Hodges, had been fired

upon as they passed in a native boat under the Satsuma battery; but no

damage was done. The Tycoon’s ship _Eagle_ was met by H.M.S. _Rodney_ off

Cape Ōshima on the 23rd—minus a foreyard arm; obviously the position was

acute and fighting there must be.

On the 27th of January we saw the sky lurid with fire in the direction of

Kiōto and heard that there had been fighting between the Tycoon’s troops

and the Daimios at Fushimi. A servant in Willis’ employ came in from that

direction; he reported large numbers of clansmen camped round great fires

in the streets. On the hither side of Fushimi were a regiment of the

Tycoon’s troops and bands of irregulars all eager for the fray.

On the 28th the Satsuma Yashiki, where we used to visit our friends from

Kiōto, was burned down—either by its inmates or, as some said, fired by

shells from the Tycoon’s troops. The Satsuma men escaped in boats, but

were fired upon from the banks and two men were killed. News came in

that Fushimi was in flames—burnt by the Daimios men who had disputed the

entry into Kiōto of the Tycoon’s troops. More soldiers of the latter were

going up. All sorts of rumours were flying about, among others a report

that the Daimios were tired of Satsuma and his arrogance. This did not

stop the fighting, nor alas! the burning of small towns and villages, the

flames of which we could see in the distance. It was heart-rending.

On the evening of the 29th we heard that the Tycoon’s troops were beaten.

At eleven o’clock of the 30th we received an intimation from the Tycoon

that he could no longer protect us. The Tycoon’s messenger promised to

get us boats to take us down the river, and we set to work to pack up the

Legation archives and what we could of our belongings.

At four o’clock in the morning a letter came from M. Roches, telling us

that he had learned that the clansmen’s troops would enter the town soon

after daylight.

It would be of but moderate interest now to relate in detail our troubles

of the next day or two, the difficulty of getting boats, the labour of

moving such chattels as we could, leaving the rest to be burnt or looted

with the Legation buildings. On the 2nd of February a first puff of smoke

announced the firing of the castle with all its glories of art. It was

time that we should leave Ōsaka. It had not been easy in those distracted

times to procure fresh food, and our men were beginning to suffer from

scurvy; a change to Hiōgo was to them a godsend.

On the 31st of January the Uyésama himself, who had been all this time in

the Castle of Ōsaka waiting the course of events, escaped in disguise in

the U.S. ship _Iroquois_, from which he transhipped into one of his own

steamers and made off to Yedo.

There has been much exaggeration as to the numbers of troops engaged at

Fushimi. There were probably not more than ten thousand of the Tycoon’s

men against some six thousand of the clansmen. And no doubt the former

would have given a better account of themselves had there not been

treachery in their camp. The General in command at a most important point

turned traitor, and the enemy suddenly poured in upon them in a quarter

where they believed themselves to be perfectly safe. Then the Tycoon’s

Commander-in-Chief deserted to the enemy. The game was up.

My part in the flight from Ōsaka was very exciting. The rest of the

Legation went down the river in boats, as I have said, and so by sea

to Hiōgo. (Shall I ever forget the sight of our dear old giant Willis,

squatting like a man-mountain on the top of the great boxes containing

the archives—for he was Chancelier as well as Doctor?) I, on the other

hand, was ordered to ride to Hiōgo in charge of the mounted escort.

We started in bitter weather with a blizzard in our teeth from the

north-west; it pricked so hard that now and then the horses would try

to turn round, and only with spur and whip could they be made to face

it. The case was awkward, for having no more to go by than the points of

the compass, we missed our way, and had to travel for a good many miles

through paddy fields of which the narrow banks were slippery with sleet

and ice. At one place two of the men, whose horses absolutely refused to

go forward, were deposited in the horrible slush of the field and were,

of course, drenched. Those who know rice fields need not be told of their

condition.

In great misery our beasts skated along the banks making very slow

progress, and I was in despair of reaching Hiōgo before dark, when at

last, after several hours, I came upon the high road at a place where

the left bank of a broad river was occupied by some eight hundred or a

thousand soldiers, waiting to be ferried across. I did not know to what

clan, or even to what party, they belonged, and I confess that my heart

was in my mouth. However, as my men came up in single file, I passed

down the word to them to take no notice whatever might happen, but if

they should be in any way insulted or molested to come to me. I went up

at once to the commander of the troops and addressed him with the utmost

ceremony, telling him who we were, and expressing the warmest friendship.

To my great relief he was quite polite and most amiable, making many

excuses for the delay which the ferrying over of his men would cause us;

I, on the other hand, apologizing to him for disturbing his men. We were

soon on the best of terms, and as soon as his soldiers were all on the

other side he sent back the ferry-boat for us. After crossing the river

we overtook him and his men again at Amagasaki; they were marching in a

great open space near the castle. My friend the commander gave a word

of command: “Halt! Front! Present arms!” My men carried their lances

and so we rode through the town in great state, and without any further

adventures good or bad reached Hiōgo a little after dark.

It had been a bitter ride, with rather more than a spice of emotion, and

I doubt whether a more shivering lot of men and horses, starved with cold

and hunger, faced the mangers that night in any part of the habitable

globe. Happily the two men who slipped into the rice-field were none the

worse for their dirty ducking.

The Ministers were lodged in the old Custom House, Satow in an

outbuilding, I in a shanty that might best be described as a Hiōgesque

version of a fifth-rate Margate lodging house. At any rate we had roofs

over our heads, we had fresh food, and our good friend, Herr von Brandt,

had unearthed a bottle of Curaçoa, over which the diplomatic body made

merry. He had already triumphed over the hungry colleagues in Ōsaka by

the acquisition of a pig; but that led to difficulties, as the priests of

the temple in which he was lodged stoutly objected to the slaying of the

unclean beast—not on account of its uncleanness, but on account of its

being a beast and therefore under the protection of Buddhistic law. The

difficulties were overcome by a compromise whereby the place of execution

was fixed in a vegetable garden adjoining a remote corner of the temple

grounds.

February 3rd.—We had news from Kiōto to the effect that the Satsuma and

Daimios party regretted our having left Ōsaka, where they stated that

they could have guaranteed our safety. However, the trick was done, and

there was plenty of work to keep us at Hiōgo. The clansmen told us that

the Tycoon had received orders to invite the Foreign Ministers to an

audience of the Mikado at Kiōto. This invitation was never delivered,

having been burked at the instigation of our good colleague, M. Léon

Roches, whose great object it was, hoping against hope, to bolster up the

Tycoon, without whom all his schemes for monopolies would of necessity

miscarry; so he never ceased throwing obstacles in the way of the

acknowledgment of the Mikado’s sovereign state.

With the restoration to power of the true Emperor the influence which he

had been at such pains to build up must tumble to pieces; it was a house

built upon foundations as unstable as the shifting sand. In his intrigues

to keep back the invitation to Kiōto M. Roches’ action was both vain and

foolish. Vain, because it did not and could not retard the visit to Kiōto

by one hour, and foolish, in that it was bound to break the eleventh

commandment.

Established at Hiōgo we were under the impression that we might now in

peace set about our business and go on with the first steps for the

opening of two ports. Never were men more deluded. We had avoided the

Scylla of Ōsaka, where, as we now knew, we should have been perfectly

safe, and had steered into the Charybdis of Hiōgo, where we were within

a few hours to undergo an experience which, by the merest luck, did not

end in a general massacre of the whole of the Foreign Representatives,

together with numbers of Consuls and subjects of various nations, and

which did end in a tragedy, gruesome and of haunting memory.

On the 4th of February, about two in the afternoon, the Foreign Ministers

were busily employed upon the land at Kōbé, which had been assigned as

a foreign settlement, when a regiment of men of the Bizen clan, coming

out of the gate of Hiōgo, halted at the word of command and opened a

murderous fire upon the foreigners. Happily they did not understand

the sights of their rifles, which, as it subsequently appeared, they

had recently received from America. They fired upon the principle laid

down, according to my old friend Lord Dorchester’s story, by one of his

sergeants in the trenches before Sevastopol. A Russian head appeared

above the battlements of the town. “What’ll I give him?” asked a private

of the Coldstream Guards. “Give the beggar a thousand yards and make

sure of him!” Several volleys were fired. Sir Harry Parkes and Captain

Stanhope were in the thick of it. All the other Ministers and many people

were under fire. Mercifully only one American sailor lad of the _Oneida_

was slightly wounded.

As soon as the British escort and the other foreign guards could be got

together they went in hot pursuit of the Bizen men, who were now in full

flight, dropping their baggage as they went. The baggage consisting

of various goods and chattels, including two small field-pieces and

a writing-desk belonging to one Ōmori Shinské, containing a burning

love-letter from a young lady of none too severe morals called Kotozawa

San! The pursuit yielded nothing; only one old woman of the Éta or Pariah

class was wounded. Being what she was, she would have fared badly had it

not been for the kindness of our good old Doctor Willis, who took her in

and nursed her when no Japanese would come near her.

Now for the so-called provocation which should justify such an outrage.

The evidence that we were able to take went to show that the men of

Bizen, notorious for their _Jō-i_ or anti-foreign feelings, on marching

through Hiōgo had lost no opportunity of insulting any foreigners whom

they met. As they went along the road north of the foreign settlement

that was to be a Frenchman named Callier, one of M. Roches’ escort, came

out of a wine-shop, and being rudely spoken to asked what was the matter.

To this the Japanese replied with threatening gestures. There was a

hubbub, and a soldier took the cover off his lance and pricked Callier,

who dashed on one side and bolted into a house. At this moment the

officer in command, Taki Zenzaburō, dismounted and gave the order to fire

on the assembled foreigners.

I am such an admirer of Mr. Longford’s “History of Japan” that it is with

regret that I feel compelled to join issue with him upon his account of

this affair, the importance of which he unaccountably slurs over. For

some reason or other a few newspaper writers who were not present and

with whom Mr. Longford sides, were minded to belittle the significance

of the attack. As a matter of fact it was about as gross a violation, not

only of constitutional custom, but of the laws of humanity, as could be

conceived. Mr. Longford characterizes the incident in his own way, saying

that subsequent investigation “shows that it was not one over which

Europeans can now feel pride.”

He tells the story as follows: “A detachment of Samurai of the Bizen

clan, escorting the Karō, the chief councillor of the Prince, passed Kōbé

on their way to Kiōto to join the loyal party. A French marine broke

the line of their procession, a gross insult in the eyes of a Japanese

Samurai, and though an attempt was made to stop him, he persisted in

passing through it. He received a lance prick for his pains, and he and

his comrades, one of whom was also slightly wounded, then ran away. The

Japanese followed them with a desultory fire which did no harm. Panic

seems to have seized the whole of the residents in the new Foreign

Settlement in the direction of which the fire went. Large forces were

immediately landed from the great fleet of men-of-war of all Western

nationalities.”

This statement of the case is wrong throughout. Mr. Longford goes on to

imply that the punishment of the officer in command of the Bizen men

was unjustifiable. Mr. Longford’s account is, as I can aver, absolutely

misleading and contrary to the evidence. He was not at Kōbé at the

time.[5] I was. But lest my version of the story should be deemed

one-sided, let me call into court a witness whose testimony is beyond

reproach. In his “Drei und Dreissig Jahre in Ost Asien” Herr von Brandt,

who was Prussian Minister in Japan at the time, puts a very different

complexion upon the episode.

“As we—that is to say, Count de la Tour, the Italian Minister, the

commanders of the U.S. warships _Iroquois_ and _Oneida_, and myself—left

the Custom House and stepped on to the open sandy space which surrounded

it we saw there a great number of foreigners, who had probably been

attracted by the sight of Japanese troops that were marching through.

There appeared to be several hundred men, who were marching towards

Ōsaka in regular order along the road which bounded the wide open space

on the north.

“We were about three or four hundred paces away from the troops, though

many of the foreigners were far nearer. All of a sudden I saw the

soldiers halt, front, and immediately I heard the rattle of a volley of

musketry and the whistling of bullets mostly over our heads. At first I

thought that it was a fight between the Mikado’s troops and the Tycoon’s

men, and was about to give expression to my indignation that such an

occurrence should be possible in the foreign settlement when a second

volley, and the flight of the Europeans who were between us and the

Japanese, told another tale. The Japanese troops had opened fire upon the

whole crowd of promenaders, among whom was Sir Harry Parkes.... I must

confess that I expected nothing else than that we should have to fight

for our lives, for I could not but think that the Japanese would follow

us up.

“I was not a little astonished when I saw that after they had fired six

or seven volleys—they were armed with repeating rifles—they quietly

marched off.” (Here follows an account of the landing of bluejackets

and marines and the fruitless pursuit of the Japanese soldiers.) “Only

one ship’s boy and another foreigner had been slightly wounded, a piece

of luck which I attribute to the Japanese having fired too high; they

must have fired many times at the flags of the treaty Powers which were

flying over the Custom House, at any rate the building was riddled with

bullets.... In the meanwhile, we had had further information as to the

Bizen troops, and had been able to ascertain (_feststellen können_)

that during their whole march through Hiōgo and Kōbé they had behaved

shamefully to all the foreigners whom they met, threatening many of them

and wounding two with their spears.”

This is a very different version of the story; it is told by the

responsible minister of a great Power, a man of singular ability and

circumspection. This version I, who was on the spot, though not myself

under what was only saved from being a deadly fire by the ignorance

of the use of the rifle’s sights, fully confirm—and it is indirectly

endorsed by the action taken not only by the whole body of foreign

ministers but also by the Government of the Mikado. Against that

you have to set the mutterings of irresponsible hearsay, to which,

unfortunately, Mr. Longford has lent the support of his authority as

historian and ex-consul.

To sum up—the attack was made by a clan known to be specially hostile to

all intercourse with the West; it was directed against all the treaty

Powers, whose flags were flying on the building set apart for their

use and whose ministers were engaged peaceably with a great number of

their fellow-subjects in laying out the future settlement under treaty

rights, escaping death by a miracle. The outrage was deliberate, and

absolutely unprovoked, the story of the breaking of the procession being

an afterthought. We heard nothing of it at the time, and that was the

view which the Japanese themselves took of it, for the guilty officer was

condemned to _hara-kiri_, and the rest of the sad story is told in my

“Tales of Old Japan.” I have only dwelt upon it because I wished to clear

up a story which, as told in Mr. Longford’s book, would remain a blot

upon the memory of men, who, after long and anxious debate, by a vote

of the majority took upon themselves a grave responsibility, in which

they were fully justified by the incontrovertible evidence which, to my

knowledge, they sifted with the most painstaking care. Mr. Longford fixes

upon Sir Harry Parkes the responsibility of the death sentence. Wrong

again!

As a matter of fact, when, on March the 2nd, two leading men, Godai and

Ito (Prince Ito) came to see whether the life of Taki Zenzaburō might not

possibly be spared, at the Council of Ministers which followed Sir Harry

Parkes and M. de Graef van Polsbroek argued and actually voted in favour

of the condemned man—but they were in a minority, and it was decided,

wisely as I thought at the time, and still think, that the decree of

the Mikado must be carried out. The Japanese petition for clemency was

very half-hearted; and over and over again Japanese gentlemen of high

position, amongst them one of the ablest of the Mikado’s ministers, in

conversation with me endorsed the action of the Representatives; they

took the same view that I did, saying that clemency would be mistaken

for cowardice. There had been too many attacks upon foreigners, many of

which had been unavenged. Here was a man of some condition guilty of what

was the greatest outrage which the anti-foreign party had attempted.

To excuse him would be to invite a repetition of such offences. The

knowledge that this officer had expiated his deed under sentence from his

Emperor would penetrate all Japan, and would prove that the Son of Heaven

was not only in favour of foreign intercourse, but was prepared to punish

any violation of the Treaties.

That night, March the 2nd, came the last act of the tragedy. I have

recounted it in my “Tales of Old Japan”; it need not be repeated here.

* * * * *

To go back a step or two. On the 8th of February Higashi Kuzé, one of the

nobles of the Court, who had been banished by the former Emperor, brought

to the Representatives the following notification:

“The Emperor of Japan announces to the Sovereigns of all

foreign countries and to their subjects that permission has

been granted to the Shōgun Tokugawa Yoshinobu in accordance

with his request to hand back the governing power. We shall

henceforward exercise the supreme authority in all the internal

and external affairs of the country. Consequently the title

of Emperor must be substituted for that of Tycoon under which

the Treaties have been made. Officers are being appointed by

us for the conduct of Foreign Affairs. It is desirable that

the Representatives of the Treaty Powers should recognize this

announcement.

“Feb. 3, 1868. Mutsuhito—L.S.”

The reading of this document, after it had been translated, led to the

poor envoy being bombarded with questions, relevant and irrelevant. The

Bizen affair, the return of foreigners to Ōsaka and various other matters

were discussed, in the midst of which poor M. Roches lost his temper and

had rather a rough time of it with some of the colleagues. It was almost

his last outburst, for he was soon to leave for Europe when Baron Brin,

a charming man, would take his place as _chargé d’affaires_. Though he

was none too civil to me personally, as an Englishman and quite opposed

to his policy, I always entertained a kind of sneaking regard for M.

Roches. He was in private life a picturesque and rather fascinating

personality. But when, for his undoing, stripped of his white burnous and

his Spahi’s uniform, he was pitchforked into diplomacy he became a round

peg in a square hole. None of his schemes and stratagems outlived the

fœtus stage, and his fireworks were but damp squibs.

His discomfiture was pathetic; the utter failure of his policy,

accentuated by the Imperial manifesto brought by Higashi Kuzé, had

destroyed the last particle of prestige that he had once had with the

colleagues, who now had no better course left to them than to follow the

lead of Sir Harry Parkes.

CHAPTER XXII

JAPAN. MUKASHI

Ito was now appointed Governor of Hiōgo and Kōbé. It is curious that so

comparatively small an office should have been spoken of as an excessive

rise for a man who was destined to become a Prince and great ruler, and

whose name was to become famous throughout the civilized world. He was a

young man of about my own age, a yōnin or man of business of the Chōshiu

clan, which some years before he had left to become a rōnin, when, with

his friend Inouyé, afterwards one of the “Elder Statesmen,” he undertook

a voyage to Europe, the two working their way before the mast. This

journey did much to open his eyes and free his views; but, apart from

that, his energies and talents were bound to push him to the front. Great

as were the services of the other clans—Satsuma especially—it was Chōshiu

that produced the two greatest men of the revolution—Kido and Ito.

On the 5th of March the Foreign Representatives returned to Ōsaka. On

the 7th there came a pressing request to Sir Harry from the Mikado’s

government to allow Dr. Willis to go to Kiōto to visit Yōdo, the Inkiyō

(retired Prince) of Tosa, who was grievously ill. Sir Harry consented on

condition that I should accompany him, for he never lost any opportunity

of getting behind the scenes in the great political drama which was

being played. I should add that during the previous month Dr. Willis had

gone to the capital to give advice and help in the case of the wounded

soldiers of the clans. On that occasion he was accompanied by Mr. Satow,

who brought back most valuable information as to the state of parties

and was able to give the government, new to all diplomatic procedure,

excellent advice as to their dealings with foreigners—especially in the

matter of the Bizen attack. They must have been the first foreigners to

set foot in the sacred city since the days of the Christian troubles

nearly three hundred years ago, for the occasional passing of the Dutch

merchants of Deshima could hardly be taken into account.

Dr. Willis and I lost no time; we started at eight o’clock in the evening

having, to use a Japanese expression, “broken our bones” in getting

ready; we could have started earlier had it not been for the delay caused

by the very officer who, with such urgent instructions, had been sent to

give us all facilities, and who had done absolutely nothing! However,

after endless wanderings through Ōsaka in search of this trusty guide,

we were finally deposited with a brazier and a lacquer box full of rice

and fish—enough for a dozen men—in a Teaboat, one of the small craft in

which the good citizens take their pleasure merrily on the river during

the summer nights, and so we slept and feasted our way up the river to

Fushimi, eight miles from Kiōto.

Here we found but little to see of the deadly battle of the end of

January. To be sure much of the town had been destroyed by fire, but

in this land, where the houses are built of wood and paper and whole

districts are burnt down by the peaceful upsetting of a brasero on a

windy day, the charred remains of a great conflagration excite little

astonishment and still less suggest the horrors of war. The burning

of the bridge at Yōdo was more significant. Yōdo was a stronghold of

the Tycoon which his general, dazzled as the clansmen said by the

appearance of the Mikado’s standard, the golden sun on a scarlet ground,

treacherously gave up to the enemy.

At Fushimi we were met by a perfect nightmare in the shape of a guard

of Tosa men—wild-looking fellows, clad in armour with their faces

hideously masked and long elf locks of black or white horsehair hanging

down from their helmets over their shoulders. With this weird escort of

pantomimic demons we marched into Kiōto along a road which was really one

long, continuous village full of shops doing a brisk trade in gods and

dolls—fairings to be taken home by pious pilgrims to the shrines of the

sacred city. The road was in a very bad state, having been much cut up

by the passing of artillery.

_Cosas d’España!_ When we reached our destination we found that we need

have been in no such violent hurry. Nothing had been prepared for our

reception, and we were kept waiting for several hours in a very shabby

outlying building, apparently a sort of guard-room for soldiers. At

last, when our patience was almost exhausted, we were conducted in

all solemnity to the Prince’s residence, one of those long, rambling,

bungalow-like buildings, or rather groups of buildings, surrounded by a

wall, and containing quarters for a whole army of retainers and soldiers.

Very white wood without a knot or flaw in it, vast roomy apartments

without a decoration or ornament of any kind, except one picture hung by

silken strings in the Tokonoma, the raised dais at one end of the room,

composed the magnificent simplicity of a great noble’s dwelling in the

days of the old Japan.

Furniture there was none save a sword rack; the fair white mats served as

bed, tables and chairs; such cupboards as were needful were let into the

wall; paper sliding screens, open at the tops, divided the rooms; there

was no privacy, and if a confidential talk was needed the profane had to

be sent away out of ear-shot, which, luckily, implied no offence. The

palace occupied by the Prince had been, until the revolution, occupied by

the Prince of Aidzu. It was spoil of war.

When we had been shown to our apartments, which were the state guest

suite of the house, the ex-Prince sent to beg that, as he was too ill to

welcome us otherwise, we would go to see him. Such a ramble through an

interminable maze of passages all alike! Even our guides were sometimes

puzzled, for they, of course, were hardly yet posted in the topography

of this recent acquisition. At last we came to the outside of the great

man’s rooms, where his retainers, all of them, no matter how high their

rank might be, laid aside their dirks (_wakizashi_), for no man must

enter his lord’s presence armed. The sword (_katana_) must always be

taken out of the girdle on entering a house.

Prince Yōdo, the Inkiyō of Tosa, was a very remarkable man,—remarkable

even among the many notable personalities of those stirring times. A

Daimio when he resigned his position in favour of his heir and became

Inkiyō might divest himself of the pomp and circumstance of princely

rank, but he rarely gave up the actual power. Such men as Shimadzu

Saburō, of Satsuma, Daté of Uwajima, and Yōdo, all Inkiyō, remained the

real governing force in their several clans. The greatest of these was

Yōdo, whom we were presently to see. He was a far-seeing man of the

highest intelligence, and took a much more statesmanlike view of affairs

than the other Daimios.

When these were pressing, as I have stated above, for the surrender by

the Tokugawa clan of property bringing in two million kokus of rice

he saw that such a confiscation would be futile and absurd as the

nucleus of a national revenue. He it was who proposed that all the

Daimios should surrender their almost regal estates, retaining only a

percentage sufficient to maintain a suitable position; he foresaw that

the sacrifice would be rather apparent than real, and that, if the

Empire were consolidated, they would be more than compensated by being

relieved of the necessity of maintaining a whole machinery of government,

with military and, in some cases, naval forces. Satsuma and some other

Princes jibbed at this in the first instance; they had not Yōdo’s grasp

of affairs, and were wedded to what he recognized as a worn-out feudal

system. In the end they had to yield and Yōdo’s wisdom won the day.

Yōdo, like some of our own statesmen of a generation little more than

fifty years before his time, had been a very free liver. In his youth he

had a seal engraved with the device, “The drunken Daimio of the Southern

Seas.” His excesses had been notorious, and he was now paying his shot.

We found the old _viveur_—old not in years—lying on the mats in the midst

of a pile of quilts and coverlets decked with beautiful purple crape,

a cloud of strong colour contrasting sharply with the waxen mask and

hands of the sick man. At his head was his wife, an elderly lady with

her eyebrows shaven and her teeth lacquered black,[6] ministering to his

wants, and behind him sat his last and favourite young lady, a pretty

little girl hardly more than a child, with her hands under a corner of

the quilt, for the poor little soul was very cold. She had her teeth and

eyebrows left as nature had given them to her, with no disfigurement

inflicted by the tyranny of fashion. She seemed at first to be very shy

and abashed at the presence of the inauspicious and monstrous foreigners.

The ex-Prince had the most exquisite manners, all the courtesy which to a

Japanese gentleman of high rank is second nature.

He was, moreover, obviously gifted with that magnetic attraction which

is so rare even amongst the greatest men and which fully accounted for

his influence among his peers. He received us warmly and expressed great

thanks to us for arriving so quickly. I did not prolong my visit, for he

appeared to be very tired and sick—as it seemed to my non-professional

eye, sick unto death. Dr. Willis, moreover, was eager to begin his

examination. So I took my leave, wondering that a man of only forty-seven

should look so old. He seemed to have used up his life. Dr. Willis, I may

add here, soon patched him up, and he lived for several years, rendering

good service to the State, though holding no office; but he could not

shake off his old habits, and in the end they triumphed and killed him.

On the following morning I breakfasted with Gotō Shōjirō and Katsura, who

were now important officials in the Foreign Office under the Mikado’s

Government, at the house of the former, who it will be remembered

belonged to the Tosa clan and was Prince Yōdo’s chief adviser. In the

midst of our talk there arrived a dispatch which caused them great

apprehension, though as yet they had no details. When the full news

arrived it was bad enough. The story has been told before, but it needs

to be repeated here, however briefly. The most complete account is that

by Herr von Brandt, from which I have borrowed freely, refreshing my own

memory.

On the 8th of March the two French ships _Vénus_ and _Dupleix_ were in

the bay of Ōsaka, where they had been engaged in taking soundings, and

with a view of continuing this work, Captain du Petit Thouars had sent

his steam launch with a gig to Sakai, a small port provisionally open to

foreign trade, where such authorities as there were had been informed of

the operations on which these boats were engaged.

At about five o’clock in the afternoon, two of the launch’s crew asked

leave to go on shore, the people up to that time having shown every

sign of friendship, and other Europeans having previously landed there.

Hardly had they gone a few steps from the launch when they were joined

by a Samurai who made signs to them to go to the other side of the quay.

Here they were surrounded by about twenty armed men, who seized them

and tried to bind them. One of the two men tore himself away, and the

other jumped into the water, when the soldiery fired into the launch

until they believed that all the crew were dead. As soon as the officer

in the gig, whose men were unarmed—and indeed, those in the launch

had only revolvers, which had been stowed away in lockers for fear of

accidents—heard the firing, he hurried to the rescue of the launch and

was met with a hot fire of musketry. One of his men was wounded, and as

he thought that all in the launch were killed, he steered for his ship

and made his report. The massacre had been terrible; those who were not

shot were beaten to death with poles armed with iron hooks.

Captain du Petit Thouars manned his boats and at once went off to Sakai;

on the way he met the launch. Out of a crew of one midshipman and fifteen

men, only two were dead; six were severely wounded, one unwounded,

and seven missing, including the midshipman. Their bodies, cruelly

mutilated, were afterwards given up. The machinery was riddled with

bullets, but the sound man with the help of one or two of the less badly

wounded men managed to rig up a sail and so escaped. The batteries on

shore were manned and the foreign representatives were all in Ōsaka, and

open to attack. The captain of the _Vénus_ and the French Consul were,

moreover, supposed to be on their way from Ōsaka to Sakai, so Captain du

Petit Thouars wisely refrained from taking any immediate action, which

might have led to terrible reprisals.

When the news reached Ōsaka in the dead of the night, the representatives

were roused from their beds and a conference was at once held. They

determined to make common cause with their French colleague, to strike

their flags, and leave Ōsaka, until the demands of M. Roches, who had not

yet left, should be satisfied. Those demands were:

1. The execution of the two officers in command at Sakai and

all those who had taken part in the crime.

2. An indemnity of 150,000 dollars for the families of the

victims.

3. That the Prime Minister should pay a visit to the _Vénus_ to

express regret and apologize on behalf of the Government.

4. That the Prince of Tosa, to whose clan the murderers

belonged, should do the same.

5. That men of the Tosa clan should be excluded from the

foreign ports.

Bad news for Willis and me; it was the very clan in whose hands we were.

We felt that we were in a hornets’ nest. Our hosts, who should at least

have remembered that we were there to save the life of their Prince whom

they loved, were maddened by the news, frantic at the idea that clansmen,

perhaps near relations of some of them, were to be executed for a crime

in which they themselves would gladly have had a hand.

When I got back to the _yashiki_ I was met by scowling looks and fierce

mutterings. The more important men of the clan showed clearly that they,

at any rate, had no sympathy with the murderers. Prince Yōdo himself and

Gotō Shōjirō we knew would act loyally and do all in their power to

insure our safety. But it is a near thing, and an uncomfortable pass to

come to, when you can almost hear two or three hundred wild men debating

the propriety of wreaking vengeance upon you, and that moreover in a

country where at that time _kataki-uchi_, the vendetta, was a debt of

honour. However, there was nothing to be done but to put a good face upon

it, so our dear old medicine-man went on with his healing, and I took

advantage of being in a city so famous and still so new to us Westerns to

explore its many beauties, now long since unveiled and familiar to every

tourist.

At Gion, a quarter of the city where the Japanese dandies go to divert

themselves, I was bidden by two or three gentlemen to an entertainment

in a famous tea-house. In these sophisticated days I doubt whether such

a feast could be given. There was a company of the most fashionable

_geikos_—who in other parts, and indeed everywhere now, are called

_geisha_. In song and in story the _geiko_ of old Kiōto is celebrated as

an artist and for the willow-like beauty of her thighs—in this there is

no impropriety, for there are no femoral revelations, and the expression

simply means gracefulness. In singing and in dancing they excel all

others.

When these young ladies sat down between the guests I saw plainly that

I was an object of terror—none wished to come near me—the strange beast

frightened them; but at last the prettiest of them took to herself heart

of brass and squatted down beside me; shy and wild she was at first, but

after a while she became quite tame, like a little gazelle that feeds out

of your hand, and indeed her eyes had much the look of those of a pet

deer; if only her pretty lips had not been gilt!

In the middle of the feast the landlady, black-toothed and shaven-browed,

came in armed with a murderous-looking chopper in one hand, and in the

other a small stand upon which was placed a bean-curd cake, the dish for

which the house was famous. The cutting up of the bean-curd cake was a

science and a ceremony, always taking place in the presence of guests.

With a great assumption of dignity the old lady lifted her chopper,

and bringing it down with a great crack upon the wooden stand, from

the rebound of the blow gave a dozen or so little raps that sounded

almost like the roll of a drum, with which, as quick as thought, she

had sliced the bean-curd cake into as many little parts of almost

mathematically equal size, which were carried off to be roasted on

slender bamboo skewers. It was really a very pretty trick and received

with a loud tribute of applause, which the dear lady accepted with all

the consciousness of merit of a prima donna after the execution of a

brilliant _cavatina_.

As in duty bound, I ate my skewerful of bean-curds, but I confess that

I did not relish them. Then came dancing—all of it full of intention to

the elect—to me the mere poetry of motion into which I, the barbarian,

could not read the significance and the story. The palm was borne away

by two pretty little mites of about eleven years, precocious pets into

whom the Terpsichore of the Far East had breathed all her spirit, all

her grace. When the dancing was over, the _geikos_ went away to doff

their stage dresses, and appeared again as little _bourgeoises_, and the

two tiny creatures became very inquisitive about me, and insisted upon

taking off my socks (the shoes had been left _more Japonico_ at the door)

and examining my feet. Had they been Europeans I should have thought

that they were seeking for the cloven hoof. It was near midnight when I

reached the Tosa Yashiki after seven hours of real good fun. I went back

to an anxious night.

Not the least interesting part of the day had been a visit to the great

temple of Kiyomidzu, a lovely shrine hidden away in a sanctuary as

beautiful as the graces of hill, and trees and water could make it.

How cleverly the monks in all countries chose the places of their holy

retreat from the world! But what filled me with wonder—a wonder hardly

to be understood now—was the fact that I was gazing upon a panoramic

view of the sacred city, to be found in which three short months before

would have meant the shortest of shrifts. There above all was the Kinri

(literally “forbidden place”), the august but severely simple dwelling of

the Son of Heaven, itself a mystery, of which the nine gates were each

guarded by a great Daimio.

To-day all these nebulous secrets have become the common property of the

guide-books and the traveller, who without a care looks down from the

beautiful hills upon what now, shorn of its glamour, is but a dull, grey

city—if the truth must be told, rather shabby; for the grand shrines

which are the glory of its sanctity are hidden away, screened from the

profane eyes in those lovely groves which were the first temples of the

gods.

The following morning brought me a letter from Sir Harry Parkes, giving

me the details of the Sakai tragedy, in consequence of which the

ministers had left Ōsaka, and ordering me to return at once, inasmuch

as if the French demands were not complied with hostilities would break

out immediately. The Japanese officials also came to me with an account

tallying in all particulars with my Minister’s letter; but they added

that as every reparation was to be made and M. Roches’ demands were to

be complied with, there need be no alarm of war. As for my position, the

consternation in the Tosa Yashiki may be imagined. Prince Yōdo sent me a

message begging me to stay until the next day, and as I thought that I

might effect some good by doing so, that my leaving might be attributed

to fear, and that to remain certainly would tell well amongst the members

of the new Government, I determined to disobey my orders and comply with

the Prince’s request. The Japanese Government greatly appreciated the

confidence to which I thus gave expression.

Almost the whole of that day was passed in conference with high

officials, and it was not until late in the afternoon that I was able

to sally forth into a driving storm of rain for more sightseeing. I was

rewarded by seeing one _grande dame_ with her eyebrows shaven off and

artificial ones painted in high up on the forehead, as one sees the

fashions of the Mikado’s Court represented in old pictures. It was my

one and only experience of the mode so far as ladies were concerned. In

the case of the Mikado I was to see it afterwards on a more memorable

occasion.

I was roused the next morning by a message from Prince Yōdo begging me to

go and see him. I found him evidently already much the better for Willis’

ministrations, in spite of the terrible shock of the Sakai massacre. I

remained with him for two hours, discussing politics and especially the

affair about which he spoke with deep feeling and unfeigned emotion.

Had the murdered Frenchmen been his own countrymen he could not have

shown greater sympathy, nor could any man have expressed it with greater

dignity. I am bound to say that he inspired me with the utmost admiration.

He declared that the act of the murderers was one which he, in common

with every true Samurai—every man animated by the true _Yamato Damashii_,

the spirit of Old Japan, must look upon with detestation and horror.

He said that this deed, far from representing the feeling of the

Samurai, was a disgrace to Japan, and the ruffians who perpetrated it

should be rooted out from the country. He then begged me to be the

bearer of the following message to the French Minister and to the other

representatives. I took it down from his own lips, and repeat it here as

a noble and patriotic utterance.

“Although I am without precise information, I am aware that the

affair of Sakai was criminal and unjustifiable. It is a matter

of which I certainly had not the slightest cognizance. My one

wish has been to entertain friendly relations with foreigners.

The act of violence which my retainers have committed has

caused me to be deeply ashamed. I am aware that foreign nations

must feel grievously incensed. It hurts me to think that my

people should have interfered with the Mikado in his projects

for civilizing the country. I pray that Tosa alone, and not

the whole of Japan, may be rendered responsible for this

deed. I have been prevented by illness from going to Ōsaka to

punish the offenders myself, but I have sent two of my _karō_

(principal advisers, literally “elders of the family”) with

three officers of rank to represent me, taking with them one

hundred and sixty men, with orders to deliver up to justice

the guilty men. I beg you to communicate the expression of my

sentiments to the French Minister in particular, and to the

foreign representatives in general. Although this is a matter

for the Government of the country to deal with, I am anxious

that the thoughts of my heart should be made known to the

French Minister and to the foreign representatives.”

Every word that Prince Yōdo spoke was uttered with the most convincing

air of truth. I took my leave of him with great regret. My talk with

him on general subjects and the political situation had been most

interesting. He left upon me the impression that he was possessed of wide

views and great sagacity; he was a man who had notoriously done much for

his country and who, but for the poison instilled by that education in

self-indulgence which played such mischief with men of his caste, would

have been capable of very great things.

I returned to Ōsaka that evening and lost no time in delivering Prince

Yōdo’s message at Hiōgo to M. Roches, who was greatly pleased with it. My

presence in Kiōto during this affair, though it could not be otherwise

than a somewhat anxious adventure, was therefore of advantage as having

given the Prince the opportunity of making his own position clear. Sir

Harry Parkes fully approved of my having disobeyed his instructions.

On the 15th of March Prince Daté (Inkiyō of Uwajima) arrived at Hiōgo and

went on board the French ship _Vénus_ to carry the official acceptance of

the conditions laid down by M. Roches.

The 16th of March was fixed for the execution by _Hara-kiri_ of the

twenty men guilty of the murders. It was originally fixed to take place

on the quay at Sakai, where the crime was committed, but the place was

changed to a temple about a mile inland. Captain du Petit Thouars and a

company of some twenty Frenchmen were to witness the horror.

When the first condemned man came out he plunged the dirk into his

stomach with such force that his entrails protruded; he held them up

in his hand and began singing verses of hatred and revenge against the

detested foreigners who were polluting the sacred soil of the Land of

the Gods till death stopped his ghastly song. Those who came after him

followed his example, and the whole spectacle was so gruesome that when

eleven men had died—this being the number of the murdered victims—the

Frenchmen could hold out no longer, and Captain du Petit Thouars prayed

that the remaining nine men might be spared. His account of the scene

to me was blood-curdling. Brave man as he was—one of the bravest—it

nearly made him sick only to think of it, and his voice faltered as with

difficulty he told the tale.

CHAPTER XXIII

JAPAN. THE MIKADO

On the 18th Yamashina no Miya, first cousin once removed of the Mikado,

who had arrived at Hiōgo the previous day to invite the Foreign Ministers

to an audience of the Emperor at Kiōto, called upon Sir Harry. The Prince

was robed in the old court dress of a purple colour with the curious cap

(_yéboshi_) of wrinkled black paper. His teeth were blackened, but as

that process has to be renewed every two, or at most three, days, and as

they were at that moment in a transition stage, they did not look their

best. When we saw him again a few days later they had been newly polished

up, and shone like patent leather.

We reached Kiōto on the 21st and were lodged in the magnificent temple

called Chi-on-in, lying in a grove at the foot of the beautiful

Higashiyama, “the eastern hill.” Everything had been done to insure our

comfort, and the temple was guarded by troops of the Awa, Higo and Owari

clans. Our rooms were really of royal magnificence, and we were treated

to a feast of innumerable dainties set out with an elaborate etiquette

that would have satisfied the great Yoshimasa,[7] the Lucullus of Japan,

himself.

It would be difficult to forget the lovely temple with its avenues of

huge cherry trees, its vast halls, its art treasures, and its great

solemn bell rolling out deep, musical waves of sound far away over the

city; but I saw it again in 1906, quite unchanged, quite untouched by

political upheavals, and had the chance to talk over the story of forty

years gone by with the stately and venerable abbot, who remembered the

cruel days when the great State apartments were turned for the nonce into

hospital wards.

The day of the 22nd was spent in paying official visits, the chief

interest of which lay in the fact that we were entering into relations

with men who had never set eyes upon foreigners before, nobles who, like

their fathers for many centuries before them, had lived in a cloistered

seclusion hardly less strict than that of the Emperor himself, and upon

whom the light of the last weeks, even of the last days, had burst like

a flash of electricity in a cave of Stygian darkness. One great man told

us quite frankly that he, like the rest of the Court, had been bitterly

opposed to any intercourse with foreigners—now all was changed, and he

was glad of it. He afterwards apologized, saying that he was afraid that

he had spoken too freely, and that, at any rate, he felt grateful to the

English for having been the first to recognize the true position of the

Mikado.

A little later in the day Prince Daté and Gotō Shōjirō came to discuss

the ceremonial for the audience on the morrow. They seemed very anxious

as to how the boy-Emperor would play his part. It was all so new to him.

It must be remembered that only a very few of the highest nobles were

privileged to see their Sovereign face to face. Even the Shōgun did not

see him, but only knelt in front of the red lattice-curtain behind which

he heard the Son of Heaven issuing his commands. For the last ten days

the rigid etiquette had been so far broken that certain Daimios had been

allowed to see him. I could not help sympathizing with the poor young

Mikado in this prospective ordeal.

It was arranged that he should learn his speech by heart and try to

repeat it, the copy being then handed to Yamashina no Miya, who would

read it out and hand it in turn to Ito to be translated, the document

itself ultimately remaining with Sir Harry, who would reply directly to

the Mikado. As for me, I was to be presented by Yamashina no Miya to his

Majesty, who would greet me with the formula “Kuro” (“I am glad to see

you”).

The reception of M. Roches on the 22nd was the last of his Japanese

experiences. As will have been gathered, I was no great admirer of his

policy or of his proceedings, but I am bound to say that his final act

was marked by all the courtesy of his chivalrous nation. The fifth of

the demands made by him in regard to the Sakai massacre was that all

Tosa Samurai should be excluded from the foreign settlements. In answer

to Prince Yōdo, who desired to be informed how long this was to hold

good, M. Roches very graciously replied that he would leave that to the

Prince, who was far more capable than himself of being the judge in such

a matter. It was the answer of a gentleman.

The audience of the English Minister was fixed for the 23rd, and at one

o’clock we left the temple in pomp and state which it is needful that

I should describe in order that what followed may be understood. First

came the Legation mounted escort, headed by their inspector, Mr. Peacock.

These were picked men sent out from the Metropolitan Police, a gallant

little troop armed with lances, making a brave show. Then came Sir Harry

Parkes on horseback, with Satow and two high officials, Gotō Shōjirō and

Nakai Kōzō; after them a guard of the 9th Regiment under Lieutenants

Bradshaw and Bruce (afterwards Marquess of Ailesbury). My mare had

unfortunately gone dead lame, so I followed in a palanquin. After me

came a guard of some fifteen hundred or two thousand Japanese soldiers.

As good luck would have it, Dr. Willis and some naval officers whom Sir

Harry had invited, among whom were two surgeons, accompanied us.

Without let or hindrance our procession passed along a straight street

almost facing the gates of the temple, but as the leading men turned

the corner of the Shimbashi Street—a street where there are not a few

wine-shops and houses inhabited by geishas (quite respectable), two

Rōnin armed with naked swords sprang out and began slashing and hacking

in the maddest fury. The street was so narrow that our men’s lances

were hindered by the projecting eaves of the houses, and were useless.

Nakai Kōzō jumped off his horse and drawing his sword engaged one of

them, but catching his foot in his long trousers, stumbled and received

a severe cut on the head from a blow the full and deadly force of which

he contrived to parry. At this moment Gotō Shōjirō, who, with Sir Harry,

had not yet turned the corner, perceiving from the backing of the horses

and the scuffle in front that there was mischief ahead, dismounted and,

dashing forward, rushed to the rescue of Nakai. Between them, fighting

like fury, they killed the ruffian, and Nakai, jumping up, hacked off his

head. The other man rushed at Sir Harry, cutting and slashing as he went,

but fortunately missing the Minister. Satow had a narrow escape, for his

horse was wounded close to his rider’s knee, and part of the poor beast’s

nose was sliced off.

On the villain went, now cutting at the men of the 9th. I heard pistol

shots and the clatter of swords and cries of, “We are attacked!” “Kill

him!” “Shoot him!” and the like. I jumped out of my palanquin more

quickly than I ever in my life jumped out of anything, and rushed

forward. There were pools of blood in the street, and I saw the murderer

coming at me, by this time himself wounded, but not seriously, and full

of fight. His sword was dripping and his face bleeding. I knew enough of

Japanese swordsmanship to be aware that it was no use to try and avoid

his blow, so I rushed in underneath his guard and wrenched the bleeding

sword out of his grip. I handed him over to the men of the 9th, but

he managed to wriggle away from them and bolted down a passage into a

courtyard. I ran on to see whether Parkes was safe. To my great relief

he was sitting on his horse, quite unmoved, with Satow, whose pony was

bleeding, also mercifully unhurt. As I came up with them I stumbled over

something; it was a man’s head. The street was like a shambles; nine of

the escort and one man of the 9th and four horses had been wounded, some

of them lying in pools of their own blood. Sir Harry’s groom was also

bleeding. Our gallant little friend Nakai was badly hurt, but quite gay,

as usual.

Seeing that the affray was over and that there was nothing that I could

do, I ran back to make sure of the other Rōnin who had run down the

courtyard. I found that he had been shot in the face by Lieutenant

Bradshaw, but the weapon was but a toy pistol and the bullet had glanced

off the jaw-bone. When I reached the bottom of the yard, I saw my man,

a repulsive object smeared with mud and blood so that his features were

hardly human, trying to escape over a wall. I hung on to him and pulled

him down. I shall never forget the horror in his eyes as he glared

at me, evidently thinking that I should kill him. Of course he looked

upon me as a man might look upon his murderer. But my object, on the

contrary, was to save him. I wanted him, for through him I hoped to get

at the bottom of the plot. So I handed him over to the guard with strict

injunctions that he was not to be hurt.

As for the fifteen hundred Japanese soldiers, they decamped, and only

came back having in the distance fired what was something uncommonly like

a _feu de joie_. It was perhaps too much to expect of them, new as they

were to relations with foreigners, that they should show the same courage

and loyalty which had been exhibited by Gotō and Nakai.

Of course, going on to the Court was out of the question for that day.

Some time was lost in getting coolies to carry our poor fellows, at

least as many of them as were fainting from loss of blood. The others,

badly wounded though they were, insisted on sticking to their horses.

They behaved splendidly and in all that pain and trouble there was not a

single complaint to be heard.

My especial care was for my prisoner; his evidence was too important for

me to leave him to chance. Such coolies as we could muster were wanted

for our men, so in despair I pressed two honest citizens, shopkeepers,

into my service, and with dire threats made them carry him in my

_norimono_ (palanquin), for he was far too weak and exhausted to be able

to walk. The two shopkeepers were intensely disgusted, and their protests

that they were respectable burghers and ought not to be made to do the

work of _etas_ (pariahs) were almost comic; but our blood was up and they

had to do it.

It was a melancholy procession home. As I walked by the side of Sir

Harry’s horse he turned to me and said, “Sensation diplomacy this,

Mitford.” It certainly was. When we reached home our beautiful temple

was turned into a hospital. Our wounded men, bleeding as if their life

must ebb out, lay patiently in the verandah, waiting their turn for the

assistance of the surgeons, who, stripped to their shirts, seemed almost

to multiply themselves, so swift and skilful were they. Shirts and sheets

were being torn up into bandages, buckets of bloody water were being

emptied and filled again. Everything one touched was sickening, wet, and

red. It was a nightmare. Presently the head of the man whom Nakai had

killed was brought in—a terrible sight. One awful triangular wound had

laid bare part of the brain, and there was a gash from a sword on the

right jaw.

As soon as the prisoner’s wounds were dressed, Satow and I with a

retainer of Sanjo Dainagon examined the prisoner. He was a beetle-browed,

truculent-looking fellow with rolling black eyes, and his appearance was

not improved by bloodstained rags, and a large head with a shock crop of

wiry hair which, having abandoned the priesthood, he had just begun to

let grow. He said:

“My name is Ishikawa Samurō. I am a priest from a temple called Jōrenji,

near Ōsaka. I left the Castle this morning determined to kill all the

foreigners that I might meet. I came to Kiōto on the second day of this

month to join the Mikado’s bodyguard, and I lodged at the temple called

Hommanji in the Temple Street. I left it the day before yesterday and

went to the Castle. I was in the first regiment at the Castle, but could

not agree with my mates, so determined to regulate my conduct according

to my own ideas. I set out to kill foreigners; I had no accomplice. I

pray to be examined, and, if found guilty, to be executed and my crime

made known throughout the Empire.”

At a second questioning, he said: “I had an accomplice, one Hayashida,

I forget his other name.[8] He is the son of a village doctor, not

belonging to the Samurai class, from Katsura Mura, a village near Kiōto.

He is a Rōnin. He belonged to the first regiment of Guards. I heard last

night from the servants that foreigners were going to Court. I waited

to see them pass. I did not know to what nation they belonged. It was

the first time that I had seen foreigners. I repent of my crime. It was

a sudden thought on the part of both of us. I had no previous hatred to

foreigners.”

On being shown the head of the man who had been decapitated in the

street, of whose death up to this time he was unaware, he added:

“This is the head of Hayashida. Since he is dead I wish to live no

longer. Please cut off my head as soon as possible. We had been drinking

together at a wine-shop. I forget the name of the shop.”

To this second statement the wounded man adhered through a strict

cross-examination, and he solemnly stated that there was no other person

in league with him.

Naturally enough this outrage excited the greatest consternation at

the Court of the Mikado, and in the evening his Majesty sent Tokudaiji

Dainagon, and several of his highest officers of State, dressed in their

court robes, to present his condolences and the expression of his deep

regret at what had occurred. They inquired with great sympathy as to the

state of the wounded men.

This, taken in conjunction with the gallant behaviour of Gotō and Nakai,

and with the prompt punishment meted out for recent attacks, could leave

no doubt as to the sincerity of the horror which was expressed. Nearly

forty years later—in 1906—when I was sent with Prince Arthur on the

Garter Mission, it fell to my lot to take the Grand Cross of the Royal

Victorian Order to the Marquis Tokudaiji, Lord Great Chamberlain as he

then was, and he reminded me of the ghastly circumstances of our first

meeting on that memorable evening in Kiōto.

Our people, savage at the treatment which their comrades had received,

were none too keen to minister to the wants of the prisoner. I could not

but feel some compassion for the poor wretch, and so I took him tea and

rice and soup, and filled his pipe with tobacco; after a while he became

quite tame and confidential. It is a curious sensation that of talking

with one’s would-be murderer. The poor fellow was very grateful and said

over and over again that if he had known what kind folk the foreigners

were, he never would have embarked upon an enterprise which he now deeply

regretted. He said that he felt ashamed when he thought of the care and

attention which he was receiving. Now, since Hayashida was dead, his only

wish was to die too. He had heard of the fame of Satow as a scholar, but

did not know to what nation he belonged. As for me, I was beginning to

feel towards him as one might towards a dangerous wild beast beginning to

show signs of willingness to feed out of one’s hand.

This morning (the 24th) he had to undergo another examination by a

Japanese official, who furnished us with an example of the criminal

procedure of Japan in those days. This gentleman was an inspector of the

bodyguard, who, by representing himself as belonging to the Jō-i, or

anti-foreign party, and applauding the prisoner’s deed, gradually wormed

himself into his confidence, and got a good deal of fresh information out

of him, especially a statement that there were three other accomplices,

also belonging to the first regiment of Guards, who had been waiting

in a house further down the street ready to spring out and follow up

the action of himself and Hayashida should they fail, or only partially

succeed, in their attempt. The prisoner stated that he was twenty-nine

years of age—Hayashida, the dead man, was a lad of eighteen. He repeated

his thanks for the kindness which he had received at my hands and at

those of Doctor Willis. Once more he begged to be executed quickly.

Hayashida was dead and he had no care to live. The three men whom he

denounced were of course arrested, and equally of course, denied their

guilt.

In the afternoon we had a second visit from the ministers of the Mikado.

They brought with them a despatch conveying in writing the apologies

which they had delivered orally the evening before; they offered the

fullest reparation, expressing their willingness to indemnify the wounded

men, and to make provision for their families should they unfortunately

die. Nothing could be more dignified or more satisfactory in every way

than the language which they held—a notable contrast to our experiences

of Bakufu days. Sir Harry Parkes had made no complaint and demanded

no reparation. The action of the Government was as spontaneous as it

was noble: what a blessing it was to be quit of the old wrangling and

bullying which alone bore fruit a few months before.

The envoys begged that Sir Harry would not allow the madly wicked act

of a few ruffians to stand between the Mikado and friendship with

Foreign Powers. It would have been churlish not to meet them halfway and

accordingly the visit which had been so cruelly interrupted was fixed to

take place on the day after the morrow.

Looking back at the whole affair calmly, it seems miraculous, first that

two men should have risked certain death in attacking a party of some

seventy Englishmen armed with all the newest weapons (though, as I have

said, our escort were badly hampered in the use of their lances which

after this episode we discarded), and secondly that they should have been

able to work such havoc before they were stopped. It only shows how much

mischief a man may do if he does not try to save his own skin—that is

the whole essence of success in running amok. If he is faint-hearted and

looks to his own safety, he cannot do much harm. Another wonder was that

Sir Harry, conspicuous in his gold-embroidered coat, should have escaped

scatheless. Obviously it was a blind fury. The attack was irrational

and to us unintelligible; but the Jō-i were animated by the spirit of

a priest of Isé, who lived a century earlier, and wrote a patriotic

pamphlet, proving that the children of Japan are the offspring of the

gods—the rest of the world the issue of dogs and cats. Was it meet and

proper that the descendants of cats and dogs should defile the city,

the court, and even the sacred presence of the Son of Heaven? Among the

papers of our prisoner was found a document setting forth his political

creed; he admitted belonging to the Jō-i—the anti-foreign party; he

thought it right that the Mikado should govern; he had heard that a

barbarian doctor had polluted the holy city (this alluding to Willis’ two

visits with Satow and myself; so a mission of charity was turned into

an excuse for murder!). Three days later he was deprived of his rank as

Samurai, and put to death by the common headsman.

The Mikado’s Government announced that they were prepared to strike

at the root of all this fanaticism. They declared that the murder or

insulting of foreigners, hitherto regarded by the fanatics as acts of

heroism, was an infamous and wicked crime, and they were prepared to

publish a decree enacting that those guilty of such acts should be

deprived of their swords, their names struck off the roll of Samurai,

that they should be executed as felons without the privilege of

_Hara-kiri_, and that after death their heads should be exposed on the

execution ground. We were bound to confess that such a decree as this

would indeed be a drastic measure, meaning far more to a Samurai than the

Western man would generally realize.

I should add here that the Queen presented swords of honour to Gotō

Shōjirō and Nakai in recognition of the gallantry with which they

protected her minister.

* * * * *

It was the 26th of March, the third day of the third moon; an auspicious

day in the omens of which the most punctilious of soothsayers could find

no fault or foreboding of evil. The tragically postponed audience of the

Mikado was now to take place. The Government were naturally very anxious

after the events of two days before, and extraordinary precautions were

taken to prevent the recurrence of any such misadventure. From early dawn

the many-acred courts of the temple were crowded with men-at-arms arrayed

in all the panoply of ancient armour, with helmets and mustachioed

vizors. The picturesque figures of these warriors, framed in the setting

of the heavy-eaved architecture of the sacred buildings, were striking

even to us who by this time were tolerably well used to such startling

sights.

How would it have struck an Englishman transported on the carpet of

some Afrit or Jinn of the “Arabian Nights” out of the everyday moil and

toil of Fleet Street into the midst of all this medieval glamour? Were

we back in the middle of the eleventh century, in the days of the wars

when the white flag of the Minamoto was borne out to battle against the

red standard of the Taira?—days when gods and fairies took sides in the

struggle, as in the old fights before Troy? Two great Daimios, Prince

Daté, the Inkiyō of Uwajima, and the Prince of Hizen, had been told off

to conduct us in person to the Palace; their retainers, more numerous

than the tail of a Highland chieftain, armed with tasselled spears and

other weapons of the olden time, made a brave show.

Our own retinue was sadly reduced. Our mounted escort could only muster

two men, who with drawn swords rode on either side of Sir Harry. Satow

and I rode immediately behind him. The drawn swords, I should mention,

were very significant, and would have a startling effect in the streets

of Kiōto, for in Japan the blade was never bared save for bloodshed,

and the sight of them would have a meaning which my readers can hardly

realize. However, there was no need for their use this time. The streets

were admirably kept, and although huge crowds had gathered together to

see our procession, they were quite orderly, and there was no sign of

any disturbance—which would have been almost impossible—nor was there an

ugly word uttered. We had a longish way to go, and reached the Gosho, the

Imperial Palace, at about one o’clock.

The Palace of the Son of Heaven, unlike the dwellings of most Oriental

potentates, who delight in show and magnificence (indeed has not

“oriental splendour” become a proverbial expression?), was chiefly marked

by a noble simplicity; it was not even fortified, but was surrounded by

plain whitewashed walls topped with grey tiles, of which the nine gates,

as I have already said, were each committed to the charge of the troops

of one of the great Daimios. Still, in spite of its studied plainness,

the Gosho was not without a certain grandeur of its own. There was none

of that economy of space which always makes a mean effect; the courtyards

were vast and kept scrupulously clean with fresh white sand; the

buildings, of which there were many, although entirely without ornament,

were large and roomy, bearing a great stamp of dignity.

At the inner gate of ceremony, the gate used by princes of the blood,

we dismounted and were led by the great officers of State through a

succession of courtyards to a waiting-room, where we were received by

Yamashina no Miya, a cousin of the Emperor. Here we were plied with

sweetmeats, sponge cake,[9] tea and talk, waiting until the Mikado, who

was eating his mid-day meal, should be ready to hold his Court.

It was interesting to see in the flesh, if I may use the expression,

a scene such as we are familiar with in the paintings on ancient gilt

screens and kakémonos. The court dress had a peculiar _cachet_, a

“flavour” as the Chinese would put it, of its own. The black cap

(_yéboshi_) tied under the chin had something of the effect of the

huge piles of hair worn by women, which one sees caricatured about the

thirties of the nineteenth century. The coat was of dark silk, hanging

loose, with long, wide sleeves, and the sword was slung instead of being

thrust into the girdle, sticking out behind like a tail. The trousers

were baggy and clumsy in make, of lighter-coloured stuff than the coat.

But the strangest part to our eyes of the whole get-up were the

shoes—huge black lacquer sabots worn in crossing the courtyards, but of

course doffed on entering a room, so constructed that the wearer had to

shuffle along in the most uncertain fashion, the very parody of walking.

The costume altogether might appear grotesque to a new-comer, but we had

so long learned to associate it with the dignity of old tradition that

its oddness had ceased to raise our wonder.

On a sudden, as we were waiting in the ante-room, there arose the wild

and picturesque strains of flute, mouth-organ, lute, drums and other

instruments of string, wood and percussion, belonging to his Majesty’s

private band,—a curious wailing music. Here again we had something with

a flavour entirely its own, though one of the Japanese gentlemen who had

been in England said that it reminded him of the Italian opera. The power

of the imagination could hardly go further.

Is there anything so utterly odious as waiting? The three of us, Parkes,

Satow and myself, had worked and waited many months, not altogether in

safety, for this consummation of a policy which we, loving Japan, and

at the same time penetrated with a sense of its importance for England,

indeed for the world, knew to be right. But now this last half-hour of

sponge cake and compliments seemed interminable.

At last! At last (I pray forgiveness if I dwell upon our impatience) we

were ushered into the Presence. Only Sir Harry Parkes and myself were

to be presented—Satow, by far the most important man of the three, not

having at that time been presented at our own Court, could not, according

to etiquette, be presented to a foreign sovereign. Unfortunately the

rain, which had been threatening all the morning, had begun to fall in

torrents, so we had to splash through the various courtyards, ankle-deep

in wet sand. Guards of honour were stationed at intervals—an unknown

sight in the precincts of the Gosho, into the inner enclosure of which no

soldiers had up to that time been admitted. We were introduced into the

Audience Hall by the Prince of Hizen.

Passing up a double flight of steps we entered the audience chamber, a

long hall forming one side of a courtyard of which the remaining three

sides were a verandah open only on the inside. In this verandah sat the

band, clothed in red, blue and gaudy colours, with lacquer caps upon

their heads. The Presence Chamber itself was a long room, very simple

and plain. In the centre was a canopy supported by four slender pillars

of black lacquer draped with white silk, into which was woven a pattern

in red and black; the drapery was caught up and festooned with black and

red ribbons. On the inside of each of the two front pillars stood a lion,

curiously carved in wood, the one black, the other gilt, about two feet

high. Like our own Lion and Unicorn they had some mystic meaning, some

hidden connection with the Kingly order.

Under the canopy was the young Mikado, seated in, or rather, leaning

against, a high chair. Behind him knelt two Princes of the blood, ready

to prompt him, if need should be, in the playing of his part. Outside the

canopy and in front of His Majesty knelt two other Princes of the blood.

On a raised floor decked with costly green silk, close to the canopy,

stood Sir Harry and myself, our conductor, the Prince of Hizen, kneeling

beside us. On one side Ito Shunské, Governor of Hiōgo, who was to act as

interpreter, was also kneeling. On either side of the canopy in a double

or treble row, extending to the end of the Hall, stood the great Princes

of the Empire, men such as Satsuma, Chōshiu, Uwajima, Kaga, and other

great nobles—to us, up to that time, no more than names, but now realized

in the flesh. It certainly was a very imposing sight; perhaps it is

difficult to convey an idea of all that it meant to us, who had worked so

hard to this end.

As we entered the room the Son of Heaven rose and acknowledged our bows.

He was at that time a tall youth with a bright eye and clear complexion;

his demeanour was very dignified, well becoming the heir of a dynasty

many centuries older than any other sovereignty on the face of the globe.

He was dressed in a white coat with long padded trousers of crimson silk

trailing like a lady’s court-train. His head-dress was the same as that

of his courtiers, though as a rule it was surmounted by a long, stiff,

flat plume of black gauze. I call it a plume for want of a better word,

but there was nothing feathery about it. His eyebrows were shaved off

and painted in high up on the forehead; his cheeks were rouged and his

lips painted with red and gold. His teeth were blackened. It was no small

feat to look dignified under such a travesty of nature; but the _sangre

Azul_ would not be denied. It was not long, I may add, before the young

sovereign cast adrift all these worn-out fashions and trammels of past

ages, together with much else that was out of date.

When we had taken our places the Mikado addressed Sir Harry Parkes as

follows:

“I hope that your Sovereign enjoys good health. I trust that the

intercourse between our respective countries will become more and

more friendly and be permanently established. I regret deeply that an

unfortunate affair which took place as you were on your way to the Palace

on the 23rd delayed this ceremony. It gives me great pleasure, therefore,

to see you here to-day.”

Now this speech, regarded as an oratorical or literary effort, was not

very remarkable. And yet, if we consider the circumstances, we cannot but

admit that there was in it much upon which we might fairly congratulate

ourselves. We were standing in the presence of a sovereign whose

ancestors for centuries had been to their people demigods—to foreigners

almost a myth. The sanctity of their seclusion had been inviolate, they

had held no intercourse with a world of which they knew nothing. Now,

suddenly, the veil of the temple had been rent and the Boy-God, in

defence of whose Divinity myriads of his subjects were ready gladly to

lay down their lives, had descended from the clouds to take his place

among the children of men, and not only that, but he had actually allowed

his sacred face to be seen by, and had held communion with, “The Beasts

from Without.” That is how the mere fact would present itself to the

minds of the Japanese.

Then as to the matter of the speech there was none of the old, haughty

arrogance of the heaven-born. The Queen was spoken of with due

respect,[10] in itself a new departure, and the apology for the outrage

which had taken place two days before was couched in becoming language,

nor had there been anything in the whole ceremonial which could wound the

susceptibilities of the most exacting foreigner. The barrier of centuries

had been broken down, and Japan was ready to enter into the comity of

nations on equal terms.

As might be expected from his extreme youth and the novelty of the

situation to one who had only recently left the women’s apartments, the

Mikado showed some symptoms of shyness. He hardly spoke above a whisper,

so the words were repeated aloud by the Prince of the Blood on his right

side and translated by Ito Shunské. When Sir Harry had made a suitable

reply we were conducted out of the Presence Chamber by the Prince of

Hizen. The whole ceremony did not last much more than a quarter of an

hour.

So ended a ceremony which had been most imposing not only on account of

its inner meaning, but also by reason of the halo of simplicity, instinct

with solemn dignity. Tradition and the atmosphere of sanctity were more

striking than all the gold and silver and jewels of an aurungzebe on his

peacock throne.

On the 27th we left Kiōto. It was no easy matter to convey our poor

wounded men, who had ridden into the holy city a few days before, looking

so smart and handsome; however, we procured eight huge litters and

managed to get them by easy stages to the boats. I may say here that none

of them died, though several underwent great suffering, and two were

crippled for life and had to be invalided home.

On the 29th Sir Harry and the rest of the Legation went back to Yokohama

to look after the interests of trade, in a neighbourhood where there was

still much sporadic fighting and where the British community were not

unnaturally anxious, and I was left behind at Ōsaka to keep up relations

with the new government which was to make its headquarters there.

CHAPTER XXIV

JAPAN. SENSATION DIPLOMACY

So I was left on my lonely job, which lasted from the last days of March

till the beginning of August. I was the only European in the great city

(for the Consulate, under Mr. Russell Robertson, was far away down the

river); there were no foreign residents, and I was often for a week

at a time without seeing a European face, or hearing any language but

Japanese. I managed to secure a lodging not far from the office where

Prince Daté and Higashi Kuzé were conducting foreign affairs and I lived

in Japanese fashion on rice and fish, with which I was served from a

neighbouring cook-shop.

It was the hardest-worked time of my life. Parkes, at the request of

the Japanese, had chosen me for the task because he was in that way

able to dispense with depriving himself of one of his interpreters; my

orders were to communicate not only with him, but also directly with the

Foreign Office at home, whenever an opportunity should offer by a passing

man-of-war. I had therefore to copy every one of my drafts in duplicate,

and my communications with the Japanese Ministers in triplicate, as

according to treaty I was obliged to send my despatches in English as

well as in Japanese, and of course the translation into Japanese was an

immense addition to my labours. There was, moreover, rarely a day when

the Ministers did not expect to have an interview, often very lengthy,

upon some subject or other, and visitors from the various clans often

came to discuss politics and air their views. In this way I was at work

from early dawn till night, and kept two Japanese secretaries constantly

employed. Neither of them knew a word of English, so they were only of

use as amanuenses for their own language. I may say here in passing that

when the Foreign Office asked the Treasury to reimburse me the money

that I had paid for their salaries the answer was that I seemed to have

made good use of my opportunities, and if I had earned any reward I must

seek for it in my own profession. That is the return which I got for

work which was no part of my business as secretary, and which actually

cost me money. In addition to my written work I had to have interminable

interviews with Prince Daté and Higashi Kuzé at the Foreign Office, or

to receive them and many of the leading Japanese in my own house. Often

I worked from twelve to fourteen hours. “Bob” Lowe, afterwards Lord

Sherbrooke, was Chancellor of the Exchequer when the Foreign Office sent

in the claim on my behalf. He was always a very good friend to me, and

told me that he refused because he thought he would be doing me a good

turn, which, he said, I thoroughly deserved. So between two friendly

stools I fell to the ground!

Captain du Petit Thouars in the _Dupleix_ was left to watch over French

interests. He was one of the most charming of men, an ornament to the

French Navy. He died in 1890 (?) as Vice-Admiral at Brest, having

rendered brilliant service on shore during the war of 1870. As soon as

our respective ministers’ backs were turned I went to him and pointed

out how absurd and harmful were the jealousies and intrigues which had

gone on between the two Legations. I told him that I would keep him

accurately informed as to anything that might happen on shore, and hoped

that he, being in the roadstead on board his ship, would let me know of

any maritime movement that might take place. I said that we still had

to deal with a crisis which was far from settled, and that I could not

conceive that our interests should not be identical. He quite agreed, and

so we determined to work together in the common cause. He was as loyal as

his own sword, and we became fast friends. During those critical months

neither of us could often leave his post, so we seldom met; when we did

it was a privilege to be the friend of such a man.

It was, as I have said, a solitary life that I led—the life of a recluse.

How my London friends would have stared at my surroundings! I rigged

up a table at which to write, and a chair—those were indispensable;

otherwise my long, narrow room was innocent of furniture other than

two handsome screens, still in my possession, which shut off my bedless

sleeping-place, where I lay like a Japanese gentleman on a quilt, and

slept the sleep of the man that is mentally and physically tired out. My

verandah opened on to a slip of garden not much larger than a good-sized

dining-table—a little gem in its way, with a miniature Mount Fuji, a

shrine to Inari sama, a forest, a waterfall plashing into a lake, in

which were several fan-tailed gold-fish.

I hardly expect to be believed when I write that one day, as I was

sitting at work, I saw a huge otter come sneaking into my little

paradise. I cocked my Spencer rifle—the friend that I always kept at

hand, for there were plenty of scowling Jō-i about—but the enemy heard

the click and bolted before I could get a shot at him. It was a strange

invasion in a city of some half million of souls!

Apart from the ordinary work of our relations with the Foreign Office

there were two matters which Sir Harry had specially entrusted to me. The

one was to insist upon the publication, without delay, of the new law

with regard to attacks upon foreigners, and the second was to watch over

the case of the Urakami Christians. Neither of these was an easy matter

to deal with.

It will be seen from my translation of the law that it was an edict which

must have needed great courage on the part of the new Government to draw

up and still greater courage to publish, as they had promised to do,

throughout the Empire. It said:

“Now that the Imperial Government has been newly established,

in obedience to the principles of the Court it has been

commanded that friendly relations shall exist with foreign

countries, and that all matters should be treated directly by

the Imperial Court. The treaties will be observed according

to international law, and the people of the whole country,

receiving with gratitude the expression of the Imperial Will,

are hereby ordered to rest assured upon this point. From

henceforth those persons who by violently slaying foreigners

or otherwise insulting them would rebel against the Imperial

commands and brew trouble in the country, and all other

persons whatsoever, are hereby ordered to behave in a friendly

manner. Those who do not uphold the majesty and good faith of

their country in the eyes of the world, being guilty of most

audacious crime, will, in accordance with the heinousness of

their offence, even should they belong to the Samurai class,

be stripped of their rank and will meet with a suitable

punishment. Let all men receive these Imperial commands by

which riotous conduct, however slight, is strictly forbidden.

“Published at Kiōto, March 28th (1868).”

This decree naturally aroused great susceptibilities. To strip a Samurai

of his rank deprived him of the right of execution by _hara-kiri_; he

would have to die by the sword of the common executioner, his head would

be exposed on the pillory, and his property would be forfeited; he

would be reduced to the level of the lowest scum of the earth, and his

family would be ruined and wiped out. Only think of what that must mean

to these proud and chivalrous heirs of the centuries! The privilege of

self-immolation was one of the dearest and most precious rights of the

very class which had brought about the revolution, the class, indeed, to

which the members of the Government themselves belonged. However anxious

the Government might be to issue such an edict all over the country—and

it was impossible to doubt their sincerity in the matter—they were in

great difficulties. They were obviously wishful to do everything that

they could to conciliate foreign Powers and to enable their country to

take an honourable place among the nations; their own interests were at

stake, as well as ours, and this they felt.

They tried hard to persuade me to let them defer the publication of

the edict until it could be incorporated in a new code of laws which,

they said, was about to be drawn up. To this I had resolutely to refuse

assent. At the same time I could not but see that they had to consider

old prejudices, old jealousies, old hatreds; “rust cannot be cleared off

an old blade with one rubbing;” they had to go forward warily. However,

to cut short a long story and the record of many an hour of debate,

every minute of which increased my respect for Prince Daté and Higashi

Kuzé, I succeeded in getting the government to post the famous edict in

every town, village and hamlet throughout the land. My chief was greatly

pleased. It was a triumph for which he received great kudos.

The case of the Urakami Christians furnished me with a still more

difficult task.

“Think not that I am come to send peace on earth; I came not to send

peace, but a sword.” In no country did these words, with the terrible

forecasts that follow them, prove more true than in Japan. When St.

Francis Xavier, under the guidance of a gentleman of the Satsuma clan,

reached the land of Sunrise, the great missionary met with many troubles,

but was rewarded by great successes.

I do not propose to tell the story of the first efforts to Christianize

Japan—suffice it to say here, that all went well until the heavy-footed,

clumsy Franciscans in Japan, as in China, trampled to death the seed

of religion which had been sown and diligently watered by the more

delicate Jesuits. Interference with the laws and internal affairs of the

country were meat and drink to the Franciscans, so that the great Kido

was historically justified when, on one occasion, he said: “It seems to

me that missionaries are men who are sent here to teach the people to

disobey the laws of their country.” Those who are curious in such matters

will find the history of the persecutions—sometimes, it must be admitted,

retaliations—admirably told in Mr. Longford’s “Story of Old Japan.”[11]

The persecutions of Hidéyoshi and Iyéyasu failed entirely to outroot

Christianity; it simply disappeared out of sight. There were in many

parts of the country small scattered colonies of Christians, faithful

men who, without the teaching of a priest or the ministrations of a

pastor, clung to the creed for which more than two centuries before

their forefathers had been tortured and perished. It must have been a

very simple form of faith without much dogma about it, but they believed

in God and worshipped the Saviour who had died for their sins, and

that was enough. One such colony existed at Urakami, a village not far

from Nagasaki, the chief scene of the old persecutions, a community

entirely composed of Christians, numbering some four thousand souls. The

reactionaries at the Court of Kiōto had determined that these people must

be put to the sword and extirpated.

It is perhaps not surprising that the resumption of power by the Mikado

should have led to a revival of Shintō, the religion of the Gods, from

whom he claimed descent. The more bigoted of the men by whom the Emperor

was surrounded, new to government and little suspecting the troubles

which, in the altered condition of things, religious intolerance could

not fail to bring upon their country, were fired by zeal for the old

worship, and they demanded the extirpation of the religion in which they

saw its chief enemies. Urakami was a prominent and notorious centre of

that faith, and its people must be the first victims.

If we put ourselves for a moment in the place of the new ministers, it

is not difficult to realize the anxious thought which this movement,

even more than the question of the new edict mentioned above, must have

caused them. Bigotry and fanaticism are terrible foes to fight, and, in

this particular instance, the trouble must have been increased by the

knowledge that any disinclination to proceed to extremities would be set

down as something akin to disloyalty to the Emperor and a denial of his

divine rights. The ministers with whom I had to deal were large-minded

men with liberal views, but they, on their side, had to reckon with

important personages, who, after being immured, as their forbears had

been for centuries, in the mystic darkness of a prehistoric cloister,

were no more fit to face the sunlight of the nineteenth century than

those perhaps fabulous batrachians which have whitened for aeons untold,

encased in the crevices of the limestone rock. In a little time they were

to face it, and they did so gloriously; but the day had not come yet, and

they were still purblind.

The sudden awakening of a sovereign and his court from the sleep of eight

centuries was a wonder which still, after some fifty years, reads like

a fairy tale even to those who witnessed it. Among the men who composed

it there was no great wealth, no ostentation to dazzle the eye—and yet

everything to fascinate the imagination. These men, dwelling in simple

houses, living frugally—even poorly—were surrounded by a halo before

which the territorial magnates, lords of great castles, with all their

pomp and splendour and martial glitter, had to humble themselves. The

Kugé believed, and they could make others believe, that for all their

apparent poverty and humility they were in some mysterious way trustees

for the glory of the Gods, from whom, like their divine Emperor, they

claimed descent.

Naturally enough, amongst men who had lived in the mystery of ancestral

seclusion, unbroken by any sign or sound from without, there must be

a majority among whom it would be idle to expect an immediate flow of

liberal ideas; they thought as their fathers thought, as their forbears

had thought in the eleventh century, when the veil was drawn over the

holy city and all light shut out till now. Some there were who amazed us

by the way in which they met the new situation. Physically, inbreeding

had done its work. Many of the nobles were puny, pale and anæmic ghosts,

in whom Dr. Willis, a sound observer, found many signs of hereditary

degeneration. Others again, equally bearing the stamp of aristocratic

descent, were strong and well nurtured. Side by side with Daté, the burly

Inkiyō of Uwajima, Higashi Kuzé, the Court noble was not imposing in

stature, but his mind was clear and nimble, and indeed, it was wonderful

to watch the success with which many of these recluses, whose lives had

been spent in the iteration of dull and mentally exhausting ceremonies,

threw themselves into the whirlpool of affairs.

Iwakura, for instance, who afterwards went as Ambassador to Europe,

was one of the most pliant of the new statesmen with whom we came into

contact. The three brothers Saionji, and some others, were born men

of the world. But these men of more advanced views were few and far

between, and amongst the others there can be no doubt that our friends

in preaching toleration had an even more difficult task than that which

lay before Disraeli when he started upon educating his party. Had the

Emperor been a little older his generous spirit would have lightened

their burden. But he was a mere boy, not yet able to make his personal

influence felt. It was not long in coming; for among the heroes of the

days of the restoration none deserve more admiration and respect than

the Emperor Mutsu Hito. Hardly was he freed from the luxurious care

and tender coddling of the women’s quarters than he was forced to take

up his august inheritance at a moment of storm and stress for which the

history of his country—perhaps we might say, of the world—furnishes no

parallel. He faced the ordeal manfully from the very first, and he seems

at once to have recognized the importance of the fact that the days of

Japan’s isolation had come to an end, and that, if the Land of the Gods

was to preserve its dignity, it must be by casting off the old slough of

tradition and prejudice.

Before many years had elapsed he made himself a real, and not a nominal,

power. The full measure of his personal weight will perhaps never be

known. What we do know is that he was a most generous monarch, an

indefatigable worker, and that he had the art of surrounding himself with

the best and wisest advisers. Had he been opposed to a forward policy

the prestige which attached to the Son of Heaven would have enabled him

to stay the hands of the clock; his power of obstruction would have been

almost unlimited. As a matter of fact his action was always in favour of

progress, and in nothing did he show this more conspicuously than in the

attitude which, from the first, he took up towards foreigners. Doubtless,

in the earlier days he, like his ministers, had to be careful not to run

too violently against tradition and prejudice.

In order to understand the policy of the new government, in regard to

the native Christians, it is essential that these very real difficulties

which they had to encounter should be understood. In dealing with them,

Daté and Higashi Kuzé evidently knew that they had to conciliate a number

of their more retrograde peers who might easily wreck the ship. Their

hand was not an easy one to play; they held but one trump card—national

ambition, which could not but be frustrated by disregarding the public

opinion of the world, and even that card they must persuade others to

take at trump value; a little too great precipitancy, a little lack of

caution, and they might raise a storm of fanaticism which it would be

hard to quell and which might ruin their game. In our discussions I had

to minimize dangers which I knew to be no sham, and to lay stress upon

advantages of which the government were probably as well aware as I was.

One difficulty with which I had to contend was the danger of appearing to

interfere in the internal affairs of the country. No foreigner’s safety

or welfare was at stake. There was not a single missionary concerned. The

foreign legations then could not do more than offer friendly advice and

that, too, in the most discreet fashion. Day after day and week after

week we carried on our weary debates; but at any rate I was at last

able to obtain the assurance that there would be no massacre, no such

persecution, no such wholesale cruelty, as had stained the early days of

the seventeenth century. So far it was a triumph, well worth the pains it

cost, but I was certain that there must be some temporary sacrifice to

the old-world prejudices of the Court, which were still too strong to be

altogether ignored. That sacrifice would take the shape of deportation.

When in the month of August I returned to Yokohama I found Sir Harry

Parkes just about to start for a conference with the colleagues. “What

am I to tell them?” he asked. I answered that he might assure them that

there was no danger, such as had at one time been dreaded, there would

be no executions—no torture—that the utmost that would be done would be

a breaking up of the community at Urakami, that the families would be

distributed among various clans, and that I did not believe that even

that measure of intolerance would be of long duration. Sir Harry was

delighted with the result of my negotiations and went off in great glee

to reassure the colleagues. It was really a great victory. My forecast

was correct; though, in 1870, there was a fresh outburst of fanatical

zeal and many families were exiled, in 1872, with the new and generous

order of things, the exiles were restored to their homes; missionaries

are now free all over the country, and who will may be baptized.

In spite of the pleasure of having independent and responsible work to do

I confess that I was not sorry when my exile at Ōsaka came to an end. It

had been a lonely time in the midst of an obviously hostile community.

The heat had been intense—the work very laborious, no rest from morning

till night, food none too plentiful, though, indeed, there was little

temptation to eat. I was, moreover, run down and out of health. So I was

delighted when my good friend du Petit Thouars sent to say that he was

leaving for Yokohama and would give me a berth, as he heard that I, too,

was to rejoin my chief.

Those were halcyon days on board the _Dupleix_. The too often storm-vexed

Inland Sea was a dream of beauty, its countless smiles rippling under a

cloudless sky. The ship was the perfection of comfort, the cook a genius,

and my host—one of the most agreeable companions, a man whose goodness of

heart was equalled by his wit and the catholicity of his reading. His men

adored him, and no wonder!

I was quickly back in my fairy-tale quarters in the little temple of

Monriuin, overlooking the Bay of Yedo—soon to become Tōkiō, in order that

the last vestige of the power of the Tokugawa family might be swept away.

My little temple home was not much bigger than a doll’s house, but it was

very pretty and snug and to a tired and overworked man it was a delight

to slip on a bath-gown in the early morning and drink in the refreshing

breezes which came blowing into the garden from over the sea.

I had plenty to amuse me, and leisure to go on plodding at my “Tales

of Old Japan,” which were growing in bulk. The stories themselves were

not such hard work; but the notes and appendices involved much labour

in looking up authorities and gathering together odds and ends of

information. Parkes used to say that, if ever the book was published,

they would be the best part of it.

The civil war was now practically at an end. The Shōgun, shorn of his

rank, was easing his scholarly mind in the composition of Chinese poetry

in his romantic castle of Shidzuoka, the favourite castle of his great

ancestor Iyéyasu, where, leading the life of a country gentleman, he for

some forty years devoted himself to agricultural pursuits, especially to

improving the cultivation of tea. In this way he found good employment

for the vast number of retainers whom he was unable to support as in

old days, but whom he would not turn adrift. He was a kind and generous

master.

There was still fighting in the north, and the Prince of Aidzu did

not capitulate until towards the end of the year. Enomoto, who was in

command of the ships of the Tokugawa, had taken his fleet to Hakodaté in

the island of Yesso, where he was joined by Captain Brunet and another

officer of the _mission militaire_, and by one or two French midshipmen

from the _Minerve_. Enomoto’s attempt to proclaim a republic in Yesso

was an utter failure; by the month of June, 1869, he was hopelessly

defeated; the French officers, who had surrendered to their own naval

commander, were shipped off on board the _Coetlogon_ to Yokohama, where

M. Outrey, who had succeeded M. Léon Roches as French Minister, would

not even allow them to land, but ingloriously packed them off in the

_Dupleix_ to Saigon. The departure of these troublesome French gentlemen

with their tails between their legs, was a source of infinite joy to Sir

Harry Parkes, and of great relief to M. Outrey, who had been much annoyed

by their conduct. Enomoto himself, the arch-rebel, was forgiven, and was

afterwards Japanese Minister in Peking.

All these things, however, took place months after my arrival in Yedo.

The great city through which the furies had been raging so violently,

burning temples, setting fire to _yashikis_, fighting, murdering,

crucifying,[12] the streets ringing with the fierce war-songs of the

clansmen, was now at peace. The days floated by uneventfully in a dull

monotone which was a new and, to tell the truth, delicious sensation; it

was long since I had enjoyed such a feeling of peace and security. Now

and then some visitor would come, eager to be shown the historic beauties

of the famous place; now and then I had to ride to Yokohama on Legation

business; otherwise the silence of Monriuin was unbroken.

It was a blessed calm after the storm. Still, it would not have been

wise as yet to lay aside revolver and sword, for so long as the Samurai

were allowed to wear sword and dirk there was always the danger lest

some fanatic swashbuckler, perhaps in his cups, might empty his scabbard

in our honour. A blow would soon be given, and we had had experience

enough of what Captain du Petit Thouars called “le marteau rasoir”—a

good definition of the heavily-weighted, keen-edged _katana_. The law

depriving the Samurai of the right to carry the _dai-sho_, sword and

dirk, was one of the wisest enactments of the new _régime_, but that was

not to come for many a long month.

CHAPTER XXV

BETWIXT OLD AND NEW JAPAN

The period upon which we were now entering was of singular interest and

historical importance. It was the connecting link between the old Japan

and the new, a transition-time in which the ancient feudalism still spoke

(indeed, one may ask whether its voice is even now, in 1915, quite hushed

to silence?) when many schemes were fought out, some still-born, some

doomed to a swift death, others, embryonic at first, but fated to grow

into greatness.

Of these none was more significant, none more pregnant with consequences

than the remission by the Daimios into the hands of the Mikado of the

great fiefs which they had held from time immemorial. This, as I have

shown, sprang out of the proposal of the Daimios that the Tokugawa family

should be made to give up lands bringing in a revenue of two millions

_kokus_ of rice; and it was to that remarkable man, my friend Prince

Yōdo, the Inkiyō of Tosa, that the credit belongs of seeing that, having

once started on a forward policy, they must be prepared to go on with

it, and that the consolidation of the Empire must of necessity involve

the creation of an Imperial revenue, together with the abolition of

provincial home rule. At the same time no little praise is due to the

other territorial magnates for the ease and rapidity with which they

assimilated what to them must have seemed profoundly distasteful and

revolutionary ideas.

[Illustration: OLD JAPAN.

_From a water-colour drawing by C. Wirgman._]

I translated the first memorial announcing the laying at the foot

of the throne the vast ancestral territories, signed by Mori Saisho

Chinjo (Chōshiu), Shimadzu Shosho (Satsuma), Nabeshima Shosho (Hizen),

Yamanouchi Shosho (Tosa). It was published in the _Kiōto Gazette_ of the

5th of March, 1869, and is worth giving in full, for it was a document

which made history.

“In the opinion of certain ministers (the writers) the Great

Body must not lose a single day, the Great Strength must not

delegate its power for one day. Since the heavenly ancestors

established the foundations of the country the Imperial line

has lasted without a break for ten thousand ages. The Heaven

and the Earth belong to the Emperor; there is no man who is

not his servant. This constitutes the Great Body. The Emperor

governs his people, conferring rank and property. It is his to

give and his to take away; of our own selves we cannot hold a

foot of land, we cannot take a single man. This constitutes the

Great Strength.

“In the days of old the Emperor governed the sea-girt land,

and trusting to the Great Body and to the Great Strength, the

Imperial wisdom ruled over all; thus truth and righteousness

being upheld, there was prosperity under Heaven. In the Middle

Ages the ropes of the net were loosened, so that men playing

with the Great Strength and striving for the power crowded

upon the Emperor, and half the world tried to enslave the

people and to steal the land. Beating and gnawing, theft and

rapine, ruled in the land. When the Great Body that should

have been preserved, and the Great Strength that should have

been maintained, were gone, no means were left for repressing

these evils. Traitors encouraged traitors and the strong preyed

upon and devoured the weak. The greater traitors seized tens

of provinces, the lesser traitors maintained retainers by the

thousand. Then arose the Bakufu, which also parcelled out

territories and men as might seem good to it, among private

individuals, thus planting and stablishing its own power. So it

came about that the Emperor wore a vain and empty rank, and,

the order of things being reversed, looked up to the Bakufu as

the dispenser of joy and sorrow. For six hundred years and more

the waters turned from their course have flooded the land and

reached to Heaven.

“During this time the Bakufu borrowed the name and authority

of the Emperor to hide the traces of thefts of lands and men,

being forced to use the Imperial name as a screen, since the

relations and duties of the vassal to his lord cannot be laid

aside after ten thousand years. Now the Great Government has

been newly restored, and the Emperor in person undertakes the

direction of affairs. This is indeed a rare and mighty event.

We have the name of an Imperial Government: we must also have

the fact. Our first duty is to illustrate our faithfulness

and to prove our loyalty. When the line of Tokugawa arose it

divided the country among its kinsfolk, and there were many who

thus founded the fortunes of their families. They waited not

to ask whether the lands and men that they received were the

gift of the Emperor. For ages until this day, they continued to

inherit these lands. Others said that their possessions were

the prize of their spears and bows, as if they had broken into

store-houses and stolen the treasures that they contained,

boasting to the soldiers round them that they had done this

regardless of their lives. Those who break into store-houses

are known by all men to be thieves, but those who rob lands and

steal men are not looked upon with suspicion. How are loyalty

and faith confused and destroyed! Now that men are looking

for an entirely new Government, the Great Body and the Great

Strength must neither be lent nor borrowed.

“Our dwelling-place is the Emperor’s land: the food which we

eat is grown by the Emperor’s men. How can we call it our own?

We now reverently offer up the list of our possessions and men,

with the prayer that the Emperor will take good measures for

rewarding those to whom reward is due and for mulcting those

to whom punishment is due. Let the Imperial commands be issued

for altering and remodelling the territories of the various

clans. Let the civil and criminal codes, the military laws down

to the rules for uniform and the construction of engines of

war, all proceed from the Emperor; let all the affairs of the

Empire, great and small, be referred to him. After this, when

the internal relations shall be upon a true footing, the Empire

will be able to take its place side by side with the other

countries of the world. This is now the most urgent duty of the

Emperor, as it is that of his servants and children. Hence it

is that we, in spite of our own folly and vileness, daring to

offer up our humble expression of loyalty upon which we pray

that the brilliance of the heavenly Sun may shine, with fear

and reverence bow the head and do homage, ready to lay down our

lives in proof of our faith.”

A truly memorable document, to which, on the following day, the Emperor

made answer, saying that “His Majesty is filled with admiration of the

loyalty” of the four Daimios.

Other Daimios followed suit, the Prince of Echizen, however, raising the

suggestion that there should be a public debate as to whether the present

was a proper and fitting opportunity for the movement.

One Daimio, following the example of the four leaders, “has the honour

humbly to make a statement”—and a very characteristic statement it is.

“The Emperor, having taken upon himself the task of ruling, the owls

have changed their cry,[13] the grass and the trees have bent to the

wind. This has been one day in ten thousand years which it has been

our privilege to witness. The land girdled by the sea has beheld and

wondered. Deeply should I fear to retain for my own the territory which

my poor clan has received from the Emperor; therefore it is my desire to

offer up my lands and my people. I humbly implore the Imperial decision.

“Sd. TODA UNÉMÉ NO SHO.”

(_Kiōto Gazette_ of March 10th, 1869.)

I feel inclined to add extracts from a similar memorial by the Prince of

Unshiu, taken from the _Kiōto Gazette_ of March 12th, 1869:

“Your servant Sadayasu in his folly and worthlessness, ignorant

of the laws of decorum, dares to lift up his voice in defiance

of all propriety. To discuss the affairs of the Government

of the Empire is a crime deserving ten thousand deaths....

Truly we may say that after an interval of seven hundred

years the foundation has been laid of a reformation which

shall last for ten thousand generations. The Emperor issues

his illustrious commands and the millions of the people are

purified in the reformation. Hence it is that your servant

Sadayasu, disregarding the heinousness of the crime which he

is committing, dares to offer up his humble opinion. The

affairs of the Empire may be said to have their seasons ... it

is to these seasons that we must direct our minds. The present

restoration is such a season.

“The first consideration is that the root of the tree should be

firmly planted. The root is the sovereign power; to restore the

sovereign power to the Emperor is to plant the root firmly....

In the Middle Ages the military class curtailed the possessions

of the Emperor.... In their mutual struggle the great swallowed

up the small, the strong took possession of the weak.... The

feudal Princes presented the picture of a land divided into

petty kingdoms maintained by force ... so that the people of

the remote districts knew not that above all there was One who

was Lord of the myriads and of the millions. How can such a

grief be endured? But now that the tangled machinery of the

State has been renewed, the myriads and the millions, purified

in the overflowing dews of the deep benevolence, will at once

reverently recognize their Emperor, and the roots of the tree

will be firmly planted. The roots being firmly planted, the

branches and leaves will flourish luxuriantly. How much the

more, now that friendly relations exist with foreign countries,

should we place our divine country under the sovereign rule,

and setting up our Emperor as the Head of the Universe, and

restoring the singleness of the supreme power, illustrate its

virtue and strength to the four seas.

“Your servant Sadayasu acknowledges gratefully that, degenerate

as he is, he is yet the chief of the least of all the clans.

At a moment so auspicious as the present, how can he refrain

from expressing his humble opinion? Cheerfully braving the

punishment of the headsman’s axe, he dares to lift up his

voice. If perchance your servant who offers up the lists of

his lands and men to the Emperor should find favour, and his

petition be graciously accepted, what happiness could equal

this? He prays that the All-wise and Illustrious will take his

poor request into consideration. Your servant Sadayasu, in fear

and awe, bows the head once and again. Fainting and dying, he

lifts his voice.”

The _Kiōto Gazette_, which gave to the world these memorials, cast much

in the same shape as that hoary old journalistic curiosity the _Peking

Gazette_, was one of the first-fruits of the new order of things. It

was a most interesting publication, full of odds and ends of quaint

information, and for some months, when our withers were unwrung by any

rousing excitement, I used to amuse myself by picking plums out of it and

translating them for the benefit of the Legation. The memorials by the

great nobles surrendering their fiefs, of which I have given specimens

above, were published in the _Gazette_. I suspect that many of the

announcements would excite as much curiosity among the Japanese of to-day

as they did in 1869 among us.

* * * * *

(1.) On the first day of the New Year [February the 11th, 1869] the

Emperor worships the Gods of the Four Points of the Compass, and on this

occasion His Majesty in the Court of the Hall called Seiriyo Den does

homage before the Gods of Heaven and Earth and prays for a prosperous

year and long life. He also in the same place prays to the tombs of his

ancestors. The Court performs _Go Sekkai_ (similar acts of worship).

A proclamation announces to the Princes assembled at Kiōto that these

acts of worship will take place, and on the second day will take place

the ceremony of the worship of Haku Ba[14] (“the white horse”) by the

Court. On the third day dancing and singing by the officers of the Court.

The Princes may be present on these four days at their convenience. On

the second the Mikado partakes of the food called _Ō-yukago Gozen_. On

the second cups of wine are presented to the Ministers of State and on

the third to various officials, and on the latter day the whole of the

Daimios present at Kiōto receive fans from the Emperor.

(2.) On the fourth day the Ministers of State assemble on the middle and

second stages of the Ko-gosho (small hall of audience), and the Hoshō

(Prime Minister) reads out the imperial address—a patriotic document.

(3.) On the twelfth day there will be Kagura dances in honour of the

_Kami_ (gods of the country), and on the thirteenth day there will be

Kagura in honour of the Imperial change of residence to Yedo. Together

with these dances there will be Shintō services from the night of the

tenth day until the morning of the fourteenth. Persons in mourning,

Buddhist priests and nuns will not attend on these occasions.

Regulations for the presentation of wedding gifts of a sword and box of

dried fish to the Emperor from the various Princes; the Empress Mother

and the Empress receiving only dried fish.

(4.) 5th day. The dance called Senshiu Banzai—“a thousand autumns and ten

thousand years.”

The murder of the Minister of State, Yokoi Heishirō, on his return from

Court. The Emperor addresses him a letter of inquiry. (He had been killed

on the spot and his head carried off by the murderers, so it was a

post-mortem compliment.)

(5.) 7th day. The ceremonies of Haku Ba, “the white horse.” This is a

ceremony in honour of spring. Although the Chinese characters for “white

horse” are used, “Hakuba” should be pronounced “Aoma”—“the black horse.”

In the book “Kuji Kongen,” the following explanation is given: “If on

the 7th day of the 1st month, a person should see a black horse it is

said that pestilential vapours will not affect him during that year.” The

Emperor Nimmei or Nimmiyo (A.D. 834-850) is said to have seen a black

horse on that day in the part of the palace called Horaku Den, “the hall

of abundance and happiness.”

In the book called “Yo No Kotozawa Mondō,” a collection of saws and

proverbs, the Li Chi is cited, where it is written that persons leading

seven black horses should go out to welcome the coming spring on an

eastern moor. _Aoi_, light green, is the colour of spring and _aoi_ is

also used for the colour of a black horse. The ceremony is therefore the

hailing of spring.

Various appointments and reliefs from duty.

(6.) On the 17th it is announced that on the 19th the Emperor will

witness dancing. Officials from the fourth rank down to the Hanji and

Shiji may be spectators; they will take their places in the corridor, and

money will be given to them wherewith they may purchase crane’s flesh and

wine.

NOTE.—These curious religious dances, which remind one of the dances

of the choristers at Easter in the Cathedral of Seville, are of great

antiquity. It is written in the Nihon-ki, the history of Japan, that

when the Emperor Inkiyō died in the forty-second year of his reign

(A.D. 453) the King of Corea, being shocked and grieved at the news,

sent eighty boat-loads of presents with musicians and eighty musical

instruments, but the court of Japan was ignorant of their use. In the

twentieth year of the Emperor Suiki (A.D. 612) Uimashi, Kichiuto and

Katai came to Japan from Hiyakusai in Corea, announcing that having

studied in China, they had learned various accomplishments together

with the art of dancing, and specially the dances called Mai, a kind of

minuet which the Chinese call Wu, danced to the accompaniment of musical

instruments. These three men were sent to a place called Sakurai Mura,

and persons of tender age were gathered together to be taught by them.

Two years later (A.D. 614) in the twenty-second year of the same reign,

one Inugami Mitasuki was sent to the Court of China to be instructed in

various accomplishments and returned in the following year. In the reign

of the Emperor Nimmei (A.D. 834-850) Fujiwara no Sadatoshi went to China

for the same purpose and in A.D. 847 was appointed Uta no Kami, “the Lord

of Song,” as the chief instructor in the arts of singing and dancing. In

the reign of the same Emperor Nimmei it is recorded that an old man named

Hamamushi of the province of Owari, who at eighty-three years of age was

as active as a boy, was summoned to dance before the Emperor. He it was

who invented the dance called Choju-gaku, the dance of long life. (The

legend taken from the first eclipse of the sun, when the sun-goddess hid

in a cave and was tempted out by the dancing of her turbulent brother, is

too well known to be more than referred to here. But it is the foundation

of the mystic dances of the Shintō.)

(7.) 18th day. Matsudaira Idzumi no Kami is reproved on account of riots

which have taken place in his district.

On the same day is issued a proclamation summoning the nobles of high and

lower degree to Yedo. It goes on to say, “The Emperor is grateful for the

fatigues and expenses of various natures which men have endured since

last spring for their country’s sake. But the summoning of this assembly

is connected with matters of the highest importance to the country.

Therefore let every man receive the Imperial will and obey it with as

little pomp and useless expense as possible.”

Rules for the division of duties.

Rules for the offices of the Council and Government—(an excerpt or two

from these may be of interest). Office hours are from 10 a.m. till 2 p.m.

except when stress of work delays the closing hour.... In all discussions

the office of the Jingi (Gods of Heaven and Earth—Shintō) will take

precedence. Other departments will follow in due order and without

confusion ... at twelve o’clock officers will retire for their midday

meal. Private conversation and gossiping is forbidden.

High prices having been paid for condemned and worthless vessels, a

regulation is issued forbidding the purchase of ships and men-of-war

directly from foreigners without previous survey and permission of

authorities of the open ports.

(8.) 19th day. Dancing before the Emperor.

(9.) 20th day. Priests and officials of the Shintō shrines summoned to

court to congratulate the Emperor and pay their respects.

Arrangements for lectures to be delivered before the Emperor on Japanese

and Chinese subjects.

Announcement of conclusion of treaties with Sweden and Norway, two

countries ruled by one king, and Spain.

(10.) 22nd day. The Empress Mother will take up her abode in a new

residence on the 11th of next month at ten in the morning.

Sentences on the men connected with the murder of the two sailors of

H.M.S. _Icarus_.

(11.) Proclamation to various clans dealing with requests for permission

to become Inkiyō, and petitions affecting the succession to estates and

the adoption of children.

NOTE.—Adoption is considered as in all respects the same as right of

birth. A gentleman once told me that he had an unbroken pedigree of a

thousand years—“With adoption at various times?” I asked. “Certainly,”

was the answer. He was amazed when I told him that in my country there

were such pedigrees without adoption.

Memorial of Chōshiu, Satsuma, Hizen and Tosa resigning their fiefs

(translation given above).

(12.) 25th day. List of persons to whom the oath of allegiance has been

administered.

Order for visit of congratulation to the Emperor, Empress and Empress

Mother on the occasion of her removal to her new Palace. Persons in

mourning to attend for the purpose on the following day.

30th day. The Prince of Chōshiu has heard that the Emperor is about

to send an envoy to his country and begs to decline the honour.

Answer.—“This petition has been taken cognizance of by the Emperor, who

has urgent reasons for issuing the orders in question, which will not be

revoked.”

(13.) 2nd day, 2nd month. Proclamation forbidding the Princes and Nobles

to have excessive retinues—also forbidding their retainers to cry out to

the people to prostrate themselves as they pass.

3rd day. Canonization of an ancestor of the Prince of Chōshiu who lived

in the sixteenth century. To the Mori Saisho—father and son:

“Whereas your ancestor Oyé Motonari, who received posthumous honours of

the third rank during a period when the three duties of Prince, Father

and Husband, and the five virtues of Benevolence, Justice, Decorum,

Knowledge and Truth, were thrown into confusion, was the only man who set

a brilliant example of loyalty and virtue; whereas he slew and expelled

the wicked and the rebel, and whereas he over and over again offered up

tribute to relieve the Emperor in his need; such patriotism and loyalty

at this distance of time excites deep admiration in the Emperor, who

directs that he be canonized as a _Kami_ (Shintō god) and orders that his

worship shall endure for all generations.

“The Emperor commands that his shrine be called the Shrine of Toyosaka.”

Order for the circulation of a book of religious instruction called

“Kiōto Fu Koku Yu Dai I.” As Sir Harry Parkes in forwarding my

translation to the Foreign Office said, “An interesting instance is thus

furnished of the endeavours of the Mikado’s Government to educate the

mind of the nation on the political questions of the day. The intimate

connection of religion with politics in a country in which the Emperor

is regarded as the Vicegerent of Heaven upon earth is, of course,

obvious.” A paper translated by Mr. von Siebold contains the following

expressions: “The Government and religion of a country are closely

united.... The law of the Mikado and the religion were in ancient days

called _the wings of a bird or the wheels of a cart_. This old saying is

very correct.”

The treatise is so curious and so instructive as a human document that I

add my translation of it in an appendix.

Although the printing of pirated editions of other books is strictly

forbidden an exception is made in the matter of the reproduction of this

pamphlet.

Order that taxes be paid in bank notes (_kinsatsu_) at the rate of 120

riyos paper for every 100 riyos specie.

Other orders relating to paper money.

Order for the establishment of a mint and new coinage.

(14.) 9th day. Appointment of a lady-in-waiting[15] and a _naishi_

(waiting-woman of lesser rank).

(15.) 12th day. Five villages in the province of Echizen are to

manufacture paper for bank notes. The paper is called Hoshō Gami.

(16.) 13th day. A loan of half a million riyos is asked for by the Prince

of Kubota, who, being the only noble in Ōshiu and Dewa who remained

faithful to the Emperor during the war, suffered grievous losses. A loan

of 200,000 riyos authorized, the Government being sorely straitened for

money.

(17.) The various districts and cities are ordered to send in returns

of their average revenues for the last five years—also returns of the

incomes of petty nobles and principal officials, and of the Shintō

shrines and Buddhist temples within their jurisdiction. The petty nobles

and officers are warned to send in returns to facilitate the above.

Similar orders are sent in to the clans in respect of taxes and customs

levied in their territories during the last five years, and also in

respect of revenues of shrines and temples.

(18.) 17th day. Two gentlemen, Kuabari Taifu and Funabashi Jijiu Sammi,

are reproved for not studying, and by their idleness disgracing their

ancestors.

Two gentlemen are ordered to proceed to Kiōto in order to practise

vaccination.

The Imperial journey from Kiōto to Yedo is fixed for the 7th of next

month. Stern orders are issued to prevent any harsh treatment of the

people by members of the suite or their servants. In the latter case the

masters will be held responsible.

NOTE.—The issue of this order shows that there was great truth in the

stories we used to hear of bullying and terrorizing by the retinues of

Daimios and nobles on their journeys to and from Yedo.

The priest Embun of the Temple Niakuōji has been ordered to unfrock

himself and enter the army as a cadet of the family of Namashina. Having

thus been created a noble of the Court (_Kugé_) he will receive an income

of forty-eight _kokus_ (about £100 at the then price of rice).

When the Emperor goes to worship at Isé (where are the shrines of the God

Ancestors) members of the retinue will stop at the post town of Seki and

rejoin the procession at the post town of Isu, after the acts of worship

shall have been accomplished.

Distribution of troops of the various clans. The Prince of Kaga to send

his contribution of rice for the army to the War Office at Yedo.

An edict forbidding the _rusui_, or agents in charge of Daimios’

_yashikis_, to continue the practice of spending money on theatrical

entertainments, singing parties, exhibitions of wrestlers and debauchery.

An edict which says that whereas the various clans have been in the

habit of negotiating loans directly with foreigners in violation of all

propriety, it is now ordered that henceforth clans wishing to borrow

money from foreigners shall address a petition to the Foreign Office,

which will grant or refuse its consent.

An edict regulating the opening of mines, for testing the purity of gold,

silver and copper, and for preventing the robbery of the peasants who

work the mines by evilly-disposed persons.

Regulations for the employment of foreigners only with the consent of the

Foreign Office.

(19.) 25th day. To the Princes of the Blood, _Kugés_ and Princes.

“The first day of next month having been fixed for the ceremony of

shaving off the eyebrows of the Empress, you are ordered to offer your

congratulations at the palace of the Empress Dowager and of the Empress.

It is not necessary to present offerings. Persons in mourning will attend

on the following day.”

Similar orders are issued to officers of the fifth rank and upwards.

Rules prescribed as to dresses of ceremony (_Ikan_ and _Shitataré_).

Orders as to the Emperor’s journey. Visits of congratulation to be paid

by Princes of the Blood, etc., at the palaces of the Empress Dowager and

Empress. “During the fifteen days following the Imperial departure each

of you will proceed once to the Palace to inquire after the Emperor’s

health.”

The 28th instant having been fixed for the revival of the ancient

ceremony of praying for a prosperous year, the Emperor will be engaged in

prayer, and religious exercises will be continued from the evening of the

26th until the morning of the 29th. Persons in deep or slight mourning,

Buddhist priests and nuns should avoid going to Court on those days.

Appointments of Boards of Trade at open ports; new purchases and orders

not to be entered upon until old obligations shall have been settled.

(20.) 24th day. Regulation of prices of horses and coolies during the

congestion of traffic caused by removal of the Court to Yedo.

(21.) 25th day. An order for framing rules and regulations for the House

of Parliament, for which accommodation will be found in the Castle.

Despatch of a mission to Koyasan.

NOTE.—A mountain in Kishiu where there is a temple founded by Kōbō

Daishi, and other temples. Koyasan is the home of the Koya Maki

(_Sciadopitys verticillata_.)

* * * * *

These few extracts from the earliest numbers of the _Kiōto Gazette_ seem

to me to have a certain interest as showing the great variety of affairs

with which the newly-established Government had to busy itself. Some were

small, others important: the _Dai-jōkwan_ (the new Government) had to

imitate the elephant’s trunk—pick up a pin or uproot a tree.

THE “GI-JI-IN,” OR PARLIAMENT

It is generally agreed that the British House of Commons is the mother of

parliaments. The new House of Representatives at Yedo was its youngest

babe. Like those of all other babes, its first footsteps were somewhat

tottery and uncertain. It had to learn to walk before it could run. The

first debates did not reveal much oratorical power or even promise of

power; oratory was, as I think I have said before, not one of the natural

gifts of the nation; but the subjects of discussion were interesting and

the arguments used by the speakers very instructive to all students of

the country’s idiosyncrasies.

The Imperial Parliament was opened on the 18th of April, 1869, under

the Presidency of Prince Akidzuki. The Emperor’s message to the House—a

maiden effort—was as follows:

“Being on the point of visiting our eastern capital, we have convened the

nobles of our Court, and the various Princes, in order to consult them

upon the means of establishing the foundations of peaceful government.

Laws and institutions are the basis of government. The petitions of the

people at large cannot be lightly decided. It has been reported to us

that brief rules and regulations have been fixed upon for the Parliament,

and it seems good to us that the House should be opened at once.

“We expect you to respect the laws of the House, to lay aside all private

and selfish considerations, to conduct your debates with minuteness

and firmness; above all things, to take the laws of our ancestors as a

basis. Adapt yourselves to the feelings of men and to the spirit of the

times. Distinguish clearly between those matters which are of immediate

importance and those which may be delayed; between things which are less

urgent and those which are pressing. In your several capacities argue

with careful attention. When the results of your debates are communicated

to us it shall be our duty to confirm them.”

It will be seen that this Imperial message contains, especially in

the last sentence, something more than a promise of constitutional

government, while reference to the spirit of the times is all the more

remarkable considering the source from which it comes.

The first subject of debate was upon the position of the cadet branches

of the great princely houses. It was proposed that in the event of the

heads of such cadet branches being attainted of treason or crime, their

properties should return to the elder branch and the guilty person alone

be rendered responsible. If the property of an attainted cadet branch

were held of the Crown, and not of the elder branch, then the property

should revert to the Crown.

The institution of the Parliament was followed by the production of

a newspaper called the _Kogishō Nisshi_ or “Journal of Parliament.”

It shows that, however crude and elementary the debates might be, the

institution gave opportunities such as had never existed before of

ventilating important subjects and publishing the discussions for the

instruction of the people. It also gave the Government the chance of

issuing from time to time papers of questions, the object of which was

the political education of the members themselves. One of these papers

was so remarkable that I have no hesitation in giving my translation of

it here _in extenso_.

(Blue Book, Japan, No. 3. 1870.)

(Translation.) Seventeen subjects of inquiry as to the means

of washing away the Shame of Our Country in regard to foreign

relations.

MEMORANDUM ON THE FOREIGN RELATIONS OF JAPAN, DRAWN UP BY THE

FOREIGN OFFICE.

(1.) From ancient times till the present day the question of

opening or closing the country has been a frequent theme of

debate. Are the barbarians birds or beasts with whom we ought

not to associate?—or, seeing that our country is not really

rich and strong, should we take of their surplus to supply our

deficiencies and then sweep them away? Or shall we change our

teaching altogether to the Western fashion, opening schools

for the acquisition of Western accomplishments and mastering

the arts of gunnery and of shipbuilding, and when we have done

this, drive them utterly from the country? Or shall we cut the

barbarians down? All sorts of schemes of this nature have been

debated down to the present day. If Japan is to be opened,

shall we keep our foreign relations as they at present exist,

or shall we place them upon a new and different footing?

(2.) If it be determined that Japan should be closed, ought the

foreigners to be expelled with decision, or shall we cut down

and slay the foreigners who are living here? And when they come

to fight us (in revenge for this) what will be the proper way

for us to meet them?

(3.) If, when the foreigners come with their armies to invade

us we having no soldiers ready to oppose them, our people and

the Emperor’s house fall together to rise no more, what then?

(4.) If, when the time comes for us to struggle with the

foreigners, there should be persons to raise the extraordinary

argument that we ought not to pit our soldiers and our strength

against them, how shall we be justified in holding such

language?

(5.) If it be decided to close the ports, when the time

comes for us to fight, in what province shall we place our

illustrious Imperial House in safety, and how shall we protect

it? What will be the result of our precautions?

(6.) If at the present time there are men who violently

murder innocent foreigners, or who coin base money, or who

borrow excessive sums of money, yearly and monthly piling up

iniquity upon iniquity, when the foreigners shall have taken

counsel together, and set their forces in motion to attack

our Government and demand reparation, they will appropriate

the open ports, stop our shipping upon the seas, and take

possession of our islands, and then how shall we ward them off;

what device shall we invent to suppress them?

(7.) It appears that at the present moment the party in favour

of opening the ports are the advocates of Western civilization,

while the party in favour of closing the ports advocate the

Japanese and Chinese civilization. If one or the other policy

is to be adopted once for all, which of these two will it be

fitting that we should determine and fix upon?

(8.) At a juncture like the present how will it answer in the

end to make our Shintō religion the religion practised in truth

and in fact by the whole people of Japan?

(9.) When the policy to be pursued is adopted, will that of

opening or that of closing the country be best adapted to the

spirit of the times, and on which side will the advantage or

disadvantage, the gain or loss, show themselves in the end?

(10.) The object of the treaties between Japan and other

countries was to promote friendship and commerce between our

people and foreigners. For the last few years foreign countries

have vied with one another in sending their fleets and soldiers

to reside in Japan for the protection of their people. Should

any trouble arise, they will send out their troops in a

moment to protect the different places at which they reside.

At the present moment there are some three thousand British

troops here. The next in numbers to these are the French. The

Americans and other countries have only their fleets. As yet

our illustrious and divine country has not been brought into

contempt before the foreigner; the present danger is lest we

should call upon ourselves that contempt. What is the proper

line of conduct for us at present to adopt in order to clear

away that danger?

(11.) Reflecting upon this introduction of troops in accordance

with the principles of international law, it is unheard of that

soldiers should be stationed in any other places than colonies

of the mother-country. During the last few years several

tens of foreign merchants have been murdered, and for every

man so murdered the foreign Governments have increased their

forces until they have reached their present large numbers.

As these murders increase they will, in the same proportion,

add to their troops and fortify themselves more and more. What

measures shall we adopt to put a stop to this?

(12.) If, as the years and months roll on, foreigners continue

to be murdered, and in this way foreign forces are augmented

until all the ports are filled by them, this will be the

greatest pollution and disgrace that could befall our divine

country. As it is, we bear an evil name before the nations of

the world. Animated by the patriotic spirit of Samurais of

Japan, how shall we wipe out the blot of these misdeeds in

sight of the world?

(13.) The presence of these foreign troops points to the

impotence of our Government to preserve peace and to protect

native and foreigner. It is proclaimed that, until the power

of life and death, of giving and of taking away, belongs to

the Government,[16] the troops cannot be sent back to their

respective countries. This power of life and death, of giving

and of taking away, is the prerogative of the Government.

The preservation of peace and the protection of native and

foreigner is the very essence of that which is right and

proper. The principle of mutual relief and assistance is that

upon which treaties of amity should be observed. At the present

moment we have come to such a point that we are tutored by

foreign countries as to our own internal policy. What good

scheme shall we adopt to blot out this shame?

(14.) In the days of the Shōgun’s government the power of life

and of death, the power of dismissal from and nomination to

office was in the hands of low persons.[17] This caused the

restoration of the government to the Emperor. How shall we

guide our chariot clear of the rut in which that which preceded

it was overturned?

(15.) The representatives of foreign Powers when they go

through the streets or in the country are preceded and followed

by soldiers; what means shall we adopt to put an end to this

irregularity? or shall we take no steps to put a stop to it?

(16.) It has happened that when the officers or soldiers of the

cities, clans and district towns fall in with foreigners on

the high road, disturbances have occurred; what means shall be

adopted to punish such offences? or, indeed, has the Government

the power to punish them?[18] When foreigners ask these

questions how can we give them a true and faithful answer?

(17.) If it be desired to decide clearly between peace and

war, an earnest and determined effort is necessary in either

case. If our energies are relaxed for one single step we shall

suddenly be precipitated into the misfortunes consequent upon

our want of decision, and the power of the Government will fall

into the hands of unprincipled persons. Therefore, is it not

desirable that the question of peace or war should be decided

once for all?

The above questions are of all importance at the present

moment. They must be treated with honesty and sincerity, and

we earnestly beg you to settle these subjects, conducting your

deliberations in accordance with the spirit of the times.

(Signed) FOREIGN OFFICE.

I translated several of the debates of the young Parliament; they were on

various subjects. Here are one or two of the headings:

(1.) The confiscated estates of cadet branches of noble families

attainted of treason—shall they be forfeit to the crown or shall they be

given to the elder branch?

(2.) In cases of urgent necessity it has hitherto been the custom to

extort large levies of money from farmers and rich merchants. One Ono

Seigorō proposes to substitute for this method of raising money, which

he stigmatizes as little better than robbery, a national debt on the

European model; and that the Government should borrow money from the

people on the security of bonds bearing interest at the rate of 3 or 3½

per cent.

The voting upon this measure was as follows:

Ayes 123

Noes 30

For the abolition of levies,

but against the National Debt 32

Against the abolition of levies,

but for the National Debt 2

---

187

(3.) On reckoning distances, temple lands and villages occupied by Etas

(the pariah class) have not been taken into account, because these have

not been required to furnish coolie labour to the Government. This has

led to confusion—and it is proposed to rectify the error.

Ayes 172

Noes 7

Indifferent 13

---

192

(4.) A proposal to abolish the practice of bearing familiar names. Also

that titles be abolished, and great and small known only by their proper

personal names. Question not decided.

(5.) A motion for introducing into the public service competitive

examinations upon the Chinese principle.

The sixth debate was upon the question of establishing partnerships

between Japanese and foreigners; and here the new institution was upon

dangerous ground—the more so in that some of the honourable members spoke

of “foreign barbarians.” The foreign representatives felt bound to warn

the Government that whatever the House might please to say the treaties

must be respected and foreigners spoken of with courtesy. The Government

were not slow in apologizing.

Two of the debates were extremely interesting; they were translated by

Mr. Aston; the subject of the one being prohibition of _seppuku_ (the

classical word for _hara-kiri_) and the other a motion that it should

be optional for the Samurai to wear sword and dirk. As may be imagined,

these proposals met with scant favour. _Seppuku_, it must be remembered,

was a punishment, the highly prized privilege of the Samurai, the

armiger, or gentleman, of Japan. It saved him from the disgrace of dying

by the sword of the executioner, and it preserved his property, which

would otherwise have been forfeited, for the benefit of his family. As a

voluntary act it is not yet extinct. The death of my friend the heroic

General Nogi, the hero of Port Arthur, bears testimony to that. Some of

the arguments used by the speakers were full of character; one member

defined _seppuku_ as “the very shrine of the Yamato Damashii, the spirit

of old Japan, and the embodiment in practice of devotion to principle.”

Another said: “To prohibit it would be to remove one of the pillars of

the Constitution.” One patriot declared that “It is an ornament to our

country, and is one reason of its superiority over the countries beyond

the seas.” “We ought to maintain a custom which fosters a sense of shame

in the military caste and in the existence of which doubtless consists

the superiority of Japan over other countries.” “Why should this custom

be prohibited in imitation of the effeminacy of foreign nations?” “In

this Country of the Gods it is not necessary to discuss such a law.”

Again, “The _seppuku_ has its origin in the vital energy of this divine

country and is the shrine of the Yamato Damashii. Its practice should be

extended.” “The reason why _seppuku_ is practised in this Empire and not

in foreign countries is because this Empire is an Empire.” It would be

tedious to multiply instances of utterances of this class. They show the

still prevalent belief in the divine superiority of the speakers’ country

and the deeply-rooted veneration for what in their eyes was an act of

heroism when voluntary, of privilege when enforced. When the question was

put to the vote only three men voted for abolition; two hundred against;

no vote, six. Of what were looked upon as the recreant three, one man was

said—with what truth I know not, but it was widely believed—to have been

murdered shortly afterwards as the reward of his vote.

In the debate on the question of making it optional to wear two swords

there was even less discussion. The proposal was negatived unanimously.

Here, again, some of the speeches were instructive.

One gentleman, Sonoda Tamatsu, said: “It is a good maxim for the soldier

in peace time never to forget war. What shall we say of a measure that

asks us, even in the midst of civil disorder, to forget the existence of

civil disorder? What, I ask, is the character of the times in which we

live? The object of the soldier caste wearing two swords is that they may

suppress war by war; but as the chief glory of the sword consists in its

resting quietly in its sheath, it follows that a natural stimulus is

given to letters,” etc.

So the motion was lost, but a year or two later the Government, finding

it impossible to check the old broils and troubles which became so

dangerous when hot-headed men were armed with deadly weapons, passed

a law making the wearing of swords illegal. The famous old saying of

Iyéyasu, “The girded sword is the living soul of the Samurai,” has become

a dead letter. The sword is laid upon the sword-rack on the _tokonoma_

(raised dais), an heirloom and object of reverence, but the Japanese

gentleman goes forth unarmed, and there is peace in the land.

CHAPTER XXVI

JAPAN. THE RECEPTION OF THE DUKE OF EDINBURGH

There was a great stir in Japan in the summer of 1869, when it was known

that the Duke of Edinburgh was coming in the _Galatea_. The Japanese

Government were wildly excited, for it was the first time that a Royal

Prince had paid a visit to the Mikado, and they were determined to give

his Royal Highness a reception at Yedo worthy of his rank and of the

Monarch who was to entertain him. Hama-go-ten, a beautiful garden by the

sea, was determined upon as his residence; and the preparations were

made in the most generous fashion. Furniture and all the equipments

necessary to European ideas of comfort were procured from Hong Kong; but

the decorations were carried out entirely in the native fashion, and most

beautiful and artistic they were.

In order that nothing might be wanting the Japanese asked Sir Harry

to allow me to help them, for in those times they were not so well

acquainted with Western habits as they are now; so a couple of rooms were

made ready for me in Hama-go-ten so that I might be on the spot, and

there I remained for about a month. I was also to serve as interpreter to

the Duke, and as I should have to act on the occasion of his interview

with the Son of Heaven, I had to be coached in the language of “the

people above the clouds” (royalties and courtiers), for there are matters

of etiquette and proper phraseology at this as at all courts in which it

would be very easy to make some awkward mistake.

It was a pity that the Japanese did not have the inspiration to lodge

the Duke in one of their own charming pavilions; but they were bent upon

preparing a European house for him, and so a rather ugly, ramshackle

wooden house with green shutters was run up in a hurry. The ugliness of

the outside, however, was made up for by the decorations within. The

walls were a perfect riot of colour and gold, which in less deft hands

would have been glaring and violent, but the artists had the secret of

so mastering and intermarrying the most hostile colours that the whole

effect was delightful and a succession of surprises. The discordant note

was struck by the furniture dealers of Hong Kong; their wares, with a

strong flavour of Tottenham Court Road in them, jarred piteously with the

imaginative poetry of the Japanese artists.

The Duke arrived in the harbour of Yokohama on the 31st of August, and,

after the usual salutes, levées, addresses and all the other wearinesses

of which loyalty is capable, drove up to Yedo, along the picturesque

Tokaido, in one of the Emperor’s carriages. Mr. Eliot Yorke, Captain

Haig, Mr. Ramsay (afterwards Lord Dalhousie) and Lord Charles Beresford

were those who accompanied him from the _Galatea_. I was specially

attached to him during his stay, and of course Sir Harry Parkes went

with him. All along the road he was received with the same honours

that would be paid to the Mikado himself. The shutters of the upstairs

rooms in the houses by the wayside were hermetically sealed with bits

of paper stuck across them so that no Peeping Tom should look down upon

the august person—a custom long since passed away in these days, when

the Emperor shows himself as freely as any European sovereign. As the

Duke’s carriage went by, the people who thronged the road and streets

fell prostrate, touching the earth with their foreheads. A most elaborate

programme had been drawn up for his Royal Highness’ arrival. I extract

from my translation of it one or two items which savour of the old-world

ceremonial of the court, now quite forgotten. The rest deal with salutes,

refreshments, etc.

“Previous to his Royal Highness’ arrival in Japan, prayers will be

offered up to Kanjin for his prosperous voyage.” Kanjin, literally the

God of China. This is the revival of an extremely ancient ceremonial

which dates from a time when there was no intercourse with abroad,

excepting with China through Corea. Kanjin is therefore the patron saint

of foreigners, who are all united under his protection under the generic

name of Tōjin, or “men of the Tang” dynasty of China.

“On the day before his Royal Highness’ departure for his residence at

Yedo, the roads will be cleaned and repaired; and prayers for his safe

journey will be offered up to the God of Roads.”

“On the day on which his Royal Highness may be expected to arrive in

Yedo, religious ceremonies will take place at Shinagawa [the suburb

through which he would pass] to exorcize all evil spirits. On his Royal

Highness’ arrival, a Prince of the Blood will visit him, to inquire after

his health.”

“When his Royal Highness is about to enter the gate of the castle the

ceremony called Nusa will take place.”

Nusa is a sweeping away of evil influences with a sort of flapper with a

hempen tassel.

The prayers and pious orisons of the Shintō priests were heard; the

Duke arrived and departed in unbroken health and spirits; all evil

influences, all malignant _oni_ and _bakémono_ (devils and ghosts) had

been successfully exorcized. When I read my old notes of all these things

I seem to be looking across a long vista of forgotten centuries into the

gloom of prehistoric times; I am transported back into the days when the

God Hachiman decided the fates of battles, when Inari Sama and his foxes

ruled the harvest, and Benten was the supreme Queen Goddess of beauty.

Playgoing in the old days, before the restoration in 1868, was entirely

confined to the lower classes; no gentleman could afford to be seen

in a public theatre; in private, it is true that famous actors would

occasionally be hired to give a representation at the _yashiki_ of

some rich noble, to whom the ordinary performance would be forbidden.

There were, however, certain classical dances and plays which were

specially performed in theatres attached to the palaces. The _bugaku_,

for instance, were dances or pantomime plays the performance of which

was confined to the Emperor’s palace, so that very few Japanese, and

those only of the highest rank, ever witnessed them.[19] The Nō, on the

other hand, were a kind of classical opera performed on stages called

_nō butai_, which were attached to the _yashiki_ of some of the great

nobles. These operas—I know no better name for them—are of the greatest

antiquity. They are supposed to recall the performances by which the

Sun Goddess was lured out of the cave in which she had hidden in order

to escape from the persecutions of her turbulent brother—a legend which

is supposed to have been the poetic explanation of the first eclipse.

They had, moreover, a religious intention in the first instance, having

been arranged at the Emperor’s command by one Hada Rawakatsu in the

last decade of the sixth century. A special performance of Nō was given

in honour of the Duke of Edinburgh in the _yashiki_ of the Prince of

Kishiu—which had the reputation of being, after the Castle, the most

luxurious palace in Yedo.

This was the first time that such a performance was witnessed by

foreigners. Opposite the principal reception room, where his Royal

Highness sat, and separated from it by a narrow courtyard, was a covered

stage, approached from the green-room by a long gallery at an angle of

forty-five degrees. Half a dozen musicians, robed in dresses of ceremony,

marched slowly down the gallery—something like the entrance of the

actors in _Sumurun_, as arranged by Reinhardt—and having squatted down

on the stage, gravely made obeisance. The performances then began. There

was no scenery, no stage appliances; the descriptions of the chorus or

the actors took their place. The dialogue and choruses were given in a

nasal recitative, accompanied by the mouth-organ, flute, drum and other

classical instruments. The ancient poetry of these pieces is full of the

most delicate fancies obscured by archaic puns and plays upon words; so

it was with no little difficulty that, with the assistance of a man of

letters, I prepared the arguments of the plays.

I published these long years ago,[20] so there is no need to repeat them

here.

During the Duke’s stay there were entertainments of all sorts, for the

Japanese were determined that he should carry away the happiest memories

of his visit. The most famous of the fat wrestlers of Japan, monstrous

mountains of adipose tissue, gave a show and there were dancers,

musicians, conjurors; Chō-chō San[21] came specially for the butterfly

trick, which has never been so well described as by Sherard Osborn in

that long-since-forgotten little gem, “A Cruise in Japanese Waters.”

All these were shown in a setting the beauty of which it would be hard

to exaggerate. The garden of Hama-go-ten was a masterpiece of Japanese

horticulture. I believe that it no longer exists, the land having been

sold for commercial purposes. When the first part was sold I had the luck

to be able to buy two of the great bronze lanterns which decorated it.

How little I thought when I used to wander through the lovely grounds

during the weeks which I spent there making ready for the Duke that one

day many years later two of the precious ornaments which I admired so

much would find their way to my own home in far-away Gloucestershire!

The most interesting episode of the visit was, of course, the reception

by the Emperor at the Castle. The official reception took place in the

audience chamber; his Royal Highness, Sir Harry Parkes, Sir Henry Keppel

and the officers in attendance on the Duke were shown into the room where

the Mikado stood on a raised dais with two of his personal attendants

and the Prime Minister behind him. The Duke and I took our places on the

dais opposite to the Mikado. It was rather nervous work for me, for it is

so easy to bungle into some absurd mistake where foreign etiquette and a

very stately phraseology have to be observed; however, it all went off

well, there were the usual commonplaces exchanged, and then his Majesty

invited his Royal Highness to meet him more privately in the garden.

After a short delay, during which the Princes and dignitaries of the

Court came to pay their respects, the Duke was shown into the delicious

little Maple Tea-house in the Castle gardens, where tea and all manner of

delicacies were served. Then came a summons to the Waterfall Pavilion,

where the Emperor was waiting; only Sir Harry, the Admiral, and myself

went in with the Duke. Dull is the office of the Court newsman! Difficult

it is to become artistically enthusiastic over the presentation of

diamond-mounted snuff-boxes! But this particular Court ceremony was

certainly something out of the common. It can never occur again. East and

West were sharply defined. There were no cocked hats or gold-laced coats

among the Japanese of those days. The Emperor and all his Court were

living pictures out of the dark centuries.

The next time that I saw the Mikado was on the occasion of my second

visit to Japan, in 1873. He was sitting back in a barouche, surrounded

by an escort of lancers, dressed, like himself, in European uniform. A

modern of the moderns.

When I went for the third time, in 1906, with Prince Arthur of Connaught,

his Majesty reminded me of that visit in 1869, when I acted as

interpreter—but he was now surrounded by a Court in which the men were

all the counterparts of European ministers, their breasts covered with

stars and decorations from potentates great and small, and the ladies

all wore tiaras and dresses from Paquin’s! Alas for the vanishing of the

Picturesque!

The Japanese Government were very grateful for the trouble which I had

taken to make the Royal visit a success, and when the Duke left the

Foreign Ministers sent me a very pretty letter of thanks, with a lacquer

box, which the English Foreign Office allowed me to accept.

AN AUSTRIAN MISSION

Towards the end of 1869 there came an Austrian Mission to conclude a

treaty with Japan. As usual we pulled the chestnuts out of the fire

for them. The Mission was commended to our good offices and we had to

dry-nurse them, put them up to the ropes, and furnish them with an

interpreter. The head of the Mission was Admiral Petz, the hero of Lissa,

a most interesting personality; the second in command, charged with the

negotiation of the commercial details of the affair, was Baron Calice,

who afterwards made a sort of name for himself as Austro-Hungarian

Ambassador at Constantinople.

With the Admiral I made great friends. One day as we were sitting

together watching the picturesque junks sailing to and fro in front of a

great warship in the Bay of Yedo, he gave me an account of the battle

of Lissa in which he had played so great a part three years before. The

island of Lissa, practically an Austrian fortress plunged in the Adriatic

sea, was attacked on the 18th of July, 1866, by the Italian fleet under

Admiral Persano. The Austrian Admiral Tegethoff went out to relieve the

besieged stronghold, and on the 20th the great sea-fight took place.

Admiral Petz’s story of the battle was most exciting. Although ironclads

had been in existence for some years, Lissa must have been the first

action in which they played their part. The Italian fleet, with eleven

armoured ships and a powerful ram, was by far the stronger; the Austrians

had only seven. The wooden ships on the two sides were about even in

number.

Admiral Petz, then Commodore, was in command of the _Kaiser_, an

old-fashioned wooden battleship. There was a moment when he was engaged

at close quarters with three Italian ironclads, the four ships blazing

away for dear life or death. He was on the bridge, half choked and

blinded by the thick, poisonous smoke and flames belched out by his own

and the enemy’s guns, his ears deafened by the roar of the cannon. It

was like hell-fire let loose upon the waters. All of a sudden a puff

of wind cleared the air, and to his dismay he saw the huge bulk of the

dreaded _Ré d’Italia_, supposed to be the most powerful armoured vessel

afloat, bearing down upon him. Iron attacking oak; an unequal fight. It

was a horror: if she rammed him it was certain death for all. A sudden

inspiration struck him; he had just time to make a despairing dash at the

monster before she could reach him. He gave the necessary order, full

steam ahead, charged and drove his bows into her, striking her amidships.

To his amazement the blow crashed into her, boring a huge hole in her

iron sides as easily as if they had been made of paper, and the great

terror sank into the sea with all her crew.

The Austrians had had the best of it all through the fight, another

ironclad, the _Palestro_, had been blown up, the other three, with which

Petz had been engaged, were badly hurt, and now this last disaster broke

the Italians and sent them in full flight to Ancona. The battle was won!

Admiral Tegethoff summoned his captains to the flagship, and when they

were all drawn up on the quarterdeck, he went up to Petz, kissed him on

both cheeks, and said: “This is your victory!”

The _Kaiser_ was naturally very much mauled, but the wooden ship had

scored; she had practically disabled two other ironclads and battered

a third before sinking the _Ré d’Italia_, and could carry her wounds

bravely into port.

Long years afterwards at luncheon at the Travellers’ Club, I was telling

the story as I had it from Admiral Petz himself. My dear old friend, Lord

Alcester, the famous admiral, who was nothing if not stiff in opinions,

stoutly denied the possibility of a wooden ship in any circumstances

sinking an ironclad; but

“Facts are chiels that winna ding

And downa be disputed,”

the _Ré d’Italia_ with her crew of six hundred lies at the bottom of the

Adriatic, the _Kaiser_ came away a cripple covered with glory, and her

gallant Commodore received the Maria-Teresien order—a distinction even

more rarely bestowed than the V.C. To earn it three conditions must be

fulfilled—the feat must have been performed at risk of life; it must have

been spontaneous, without any superior command, and it must be successful.

It was good to hear the brave sailor tell his tale, simply and without

any suspicion of vainglory. He would not admit that he had done anything

wonderful. He saw death before him as he stood on the bridge—a sudden

idea flashed across his brain—Impossible? Why not try? That was all.

* * * * *

On the 1st of January, 1870, I left Japan. The work of the last two years

had told upon me. I was out of health, and had almost to be carried on

board ship by our good Doctor Willis. I went to Singapore, and there

awaited the arrival of the Messageries ship _Hoogly_, which was to

bring my friend and colleague, Gustave de Montebello, who afterwards,

as Ambassador at St. Petersburg, initiated the _entente_ between France

and Russia, which was destined to bear fruits which now, in 1915, are

ripening to their full value. A month of the _dolce far niente_ at

Singapore, a life of lotus-eating, resting in a luxurious rattan chair,

breathing in a balmy, spice-laden atmosphere on a verandah broad enough

to protect me from any insidious attacks of the sun, set me quite on

my legs again, and by the time my friend arrived, I was as lively as a

thrush, and ready to enjoy the delights of a voyage with one of the most

agreeable of companions, both of us hungry for home, and yet full of the

memories of our past experiences.

Montebello was not well treated by his Government. I met him in

Switzerland not long before his death; he had been superseded, and his

political foresight had not been recognized as it should have been; but

he was too great a gentleman to express any resentment, even to me. He

died as he had lived, a noble Frenchman, chivalrous to the last. But that

he felt acutely I well knew.

Our voyage had an element of excitement in it. At Singapore we were told

that we were to go through the Suez Canal. If so, we should be the first

ship to go through as a matter of business, apart from the vessels that

had taken part in the gala proceedings at the opening. At Point de Galle

we heard that it was impossible. At Aden there was a fresh contradiction,

and when we reached Suez, through we went! We stuck in the middle

and smashed one flange of our screw, but in spite of that we reached

Marseilles all right, and were immediately put in quarantine, because a

poor fellow had died of consumption on board, and been buried at sea in

the Red Sea. Montebello used his official position to get himself and me

landed in spite of all objections, we being bearers of despatches—for I

took good care never to travel without a Foreign Office bag—and so with

all expedition we reached Paris.

_APPENDIX_

GOVERNMENT TREATISE ON POLITICS AND RELIGION, PUBLISHED TO THE PEOPLE

(_Translation_)

“JIM MIN KOKU YU DAI I”

INTRODUCTION TO PART I

This treatise, the “Koku Yu Dai I,” is published with the object of

making known the institutions of the Country of the Gods, and of

declaring the intentions of the Imperial Government, and to this end five

copies will be distributed to every Kori or parochial sub-division of

every province throughout the country. The officials, and not only they,

but all well-disposed men, will give their earnest attention to this

object, and will exert themselves to instruct all persons, down to the

women and children, in the principles of this treatise.

The privilege of publishing this treatise has been granted to the

Imperial Library of Kiōto, kept by Murakami Kambei, and all persons may

freely purchase it.

The above will be made known throughout all the sub-divisions of the

Province of Yamashiro.

(_Signed_) GOVERNMENT OF KIŌTO.

“KOKU YU DAI I”

Man is the sublime essence of all things. Between heaven and earth there

is no more honourable thing than man. Our country is specially called

the Country of the Gods, and of all the countries in the world there is

none the institutions of which excel those of our country. Is it not

a disgrace past speaking of that the privileged being called man, who

dwells in the excellent Country of the Gods, should pass his life in

heedless vanity? Man differs from the birds and from the beasts in that

he can discern the laws of reason, and in that he has a heart capable of

gratitude and virtue. Loyalty and filial piety are also the essence of

the heart of man. He who in ever so slight a degree is wanting in this

heart has the face of a man but the soul of a beast, and though he be

shaped as a man, yet is he even less than the birds and the beasts.

If, then, a man wishes to fulfil his duties as a man, and having been

born in the Country of the Gods desires not to turn his back upon the

spirits of that country, let him above all things bear in mind the

privilege of being born a Japanese, and set his heart upon repaying the

debt of gratitude which he owes to his country.

We have said that the institutions of the Country of the Gods excel

those of other countries. Of old the heavenly ancestors of the Emperor

created this country, and established the duties of men in their mutual

relations. Since that time the line of Emperors has never been changed.

Generation has succeeded generation in the rule of this country, and

the Imperial heart has ever been penetrated by a tender love for the

people. In their turn the people have reverenced and served generation

after generation of Emperors. In foreign countries the lines of Princes

have been frequently changed; the people owe their Sovereign a debt of

gratitude which extends over two or three generations; the relations of

Sovereign and subject last for a hundred or two hundred years; the Prince

of yesterday is the foe of to-day; the minister of yesterday is the rebel

of to-morrow.

In our country we have no such folly. Since the creation of the world we

have remained unmoved; since the creation of the world the Imperial line

has been unchanged and the relations of Sovereign and subject have been

undisturbed; hence it is that the spirit of gratitude has intensified and

grown deeper and deeper. The especial point in which the institutions

of our country excel those of the rest of the world is the creed which

has been established by the heavenly ancestors of the Emperor, and which

comprises the mutual duties between lord and servant.

Even in foreign countries, where lords and servants have over and over

again changed places, these mutual duties are handed down as a matter of

weighty importance. How much the more does it behove us to pay a debt of

deep and inexhaustible gratitude which extends over the ages.

Is there any man who thinks that he has never received a penny from the

Emperor? Is there any man who thinks that he is not beholden to the

Emperor for one tittle of help in his need? Is there any man who believes

that it is of his own merit that he passes through the world, and who

feels not the favours which he has received from his country? If there be

such a man, great is his mistake. He is like the man in the proverb who

is grateful for the light borrowed from his lamp, but is heedless of the

thanks which he owes to the moon and to the sun.

The favours which a man receives from his country are so vast as to be

without bounds. Reflect carefully upon this. Since it is by the heavenly

ancestors of the Emperor that this country was created, there is no

single thing existing in the land which is not the Emperor’s. At our

birth the water in which we are washed is the Emperor’s. At our death

the ground in which we are buried is the Emperor’s. The rice which we

eat, the clothes which we wear, the cap which we put on, the staff which

supports us, are all the produce of the Emperor’s land.

Again, the money which enables us to pass through life easily is coined

by the will of the Emperor; so that whether we hoard our wealth or give

out our coin to meet our daily wants, it is by the help of the Emperor

that we are able to transact our business.

Further, lest wicked men should hinder us, offices and guard-houses are

established in different places. Ruffians and thieves are punished;

children may be trusted to walk abroad with money, and no man will rob

them; old men and women may be left to watch the house, and lawless men

will not break in. You plant your fields with rice and your gardens with

green things. You set out goods for sale and clothes to dry in your shops

and wayside stalls, and no man comes to steal them; here is no small

cause of gratitude. If perchance any evil deed should be done, no means

are left untried to discover the guilty man, and the Imperial orders are

issued to punish him according to his crime.

If there were no such Imperial authority to exercise justice, each man

would have to trust to his own strength. The weak would be slain by the

strong; the old would be pushed over by the young; rice and money would

be seized by force. But since this exercise of justice exists, although a

single or double hedge may be easily broken through, there is no need to

set guards, for there are none to force an entrance, and so we pass our

lives in peace and safety.

There are yet further ways in which the generations of Emperors have

cared for the sorrow of their people. Remember with reverence that there

was once an Emperor who in the cold winter night stripped his clothes

that he might know by his own feelings the sufferings of the poor.[22]

When he looked at the rice before him he reflected that the grain was

planted by the sweat of the farmers, and acknowledged their labours. We

must be truly grateful that morning and night the Emperor’s prayers have

been offered up that his people might be spared from storm and from rain;

from famine, plague, and cholera. Nor is it for ourselves alone, nor for

our generation only, that our gratitude is due. Since the creation of

the world generation after generation of our ancestors have passed their

lives under the shadow of their Emperors. How many endless generations

of our children’s children shall be nurtured under the same gracious

protection?

During the last three hundred years, the land being at peace, the power

of the Emperor was gradually relaxed. Although the Emperor existed, it

was as though he were no more. The consideration and love of the Emperor

for his people did not reach them; it was arrested on its way. Bribery

and corruption flourished; even good men fell into evil ways, and bad men

prospered. The Emperor was greatly afflicted; he neither ate nor rested

in peace. Still, however great might be the afflictions which he had

to undergo himself, they were as nothing to those which he suffered on

account of his people’s grief.

Now at last the Imperial Government has been restored to its ancient

form; the affairs of the country are placed upon a brilliant basis; the

hearts of great and small are united; the desires of all men have been

accomplished, and men may more than ever pass their lives in peaceful

tranquillity. Preserving those institutions in which the Emperor’s

country excels all other countries, we will illustrate the power of our

Emperor to the world. Reverently receiving the Imperial will, we will

humbly obey his commands; we will set our hearts upon serving him for

his sake. Bent upon requiting every particle or hair’s breadth of favour

received during generations after generations, we will not turn our backs

upon our duty as the people of the Country of the Gods.

First year of Meiji (1868).

(Printed officially by the Imperial Printers. Published at Kiōto by

Murakami Kambei and Inouyé Jihei; at Yedo, by Mohei at the Suwaraya; and

Ichibei, at the Idzumiya.)

INTRODUCTION TO PART II

On a former occasion in the first part of this treatise, we set forth

the institutions of the Country of the Gods, and made known the will of

the Imperial Government; in continuation of this we now publish a second

part, in which we shall treat of the form and power of the countries of

the world, and shall show how the best interests of our divine country

may be served. Officials and all well-disposed men will give their

earnest attention to this object, and will exert themselves to instruct

all persons, down to the women and children, in the principles of this

treatise.

The privilege of publishing this treatise has been granted to the

Imperial Library at Kiōto, kept by Murakami Kambei, and all persons may

freely purchase it.

PART II

On the occasion of the Imperial journey to Yedo last year, his Majesty

took upon himself the direction of the machinery of the State. Up to that

time the precepts of the Emperor had not reached the Eastern Provinces

of the country. While the accumulated masses of business were only

half-accomplished, the days and nights had sped swiftly, and the period

for the celebration of rites on the third anniversary of the death of the

late Emperor had come round.

His Majesty accordingly in the first place returned to Kiōto, and having

concluded the funeral rites and his own marriage ceremony, he gave orders

for his second visit to Yedo. Thus does he again subject his sacred

person to fatigue, and although it may be said that this is owing to

the spirit of the time, yet it is in truth a matter to be grateful for,

and the people, perceiving the Emperor’s intentions, should deeply and

carefully lay them to heart.

Now the spirit of the present differs from the spirit of the past. The

countries of the world have joined themselves in a relationship of peace

and friendship. Steamers are sent round the world, heedless of stormy

waves or of foul winds. The communication between lands distant ten

thousand miles from one another is as that between neighbours; country

competes with country in producing rifles and guns and machinery, and

each revolves plans for its own advantage and profit. Each vies with

the other in devising schemes to obtain the mastery, each exerts itself

to keep up the strength of its armies, each and everyone strives to

invent warlike contrivances. But in spite of all this, there is a great

principle existing over all the world which prevents civilized countries

from being lightly and lawlessly attacked.

This principle is called international law. How much the more, then,

would our divine country, the institutions of which excel those of all

other countries, be turning her back upon the sacred precepts established

by the heavenly ancestors of the Emperor should she be guilty of violent

and lawless acts. Such a thing would be the greatest shame and disgrace

to the Country of the Gods. Hence it is that the Emperor has extended a

faithful alliance to those foreigners who come here lawfully and rightly,

and they are allowed free and uninterrupted access to this country.

Following this example set by the Emperor, his subjects when they receive

no insult from the foreigner should observe the same principle and

refrain from blows and fighting. If by any chance we should be put to

shame before the foreigner it is hard to say what consequences may ensue.

It is our especial duty to publish to the world beyond the seas the

ancient spirit of the Country of the Gods and the excellent institutions

established by the heavenly ancestors of the Emperor, that the countries

of the world may admire and envy the power of our Sovereign. To this

end it is above all things needful that the whole of Japan should be

penetrated by the Imperial precepts, and that the strength of the country

should be united in one whole. Without this it will be hard for the

spirit of the country to stand, without this, on the contrary, we shall

have to endure the scorn of foreign nations.

Should so much as a hair’s end of shame attach to the Country of the

Gods, what excuse can we offer to the long line of Emperors who succeeded

their heavenly ancestors. To be the cause of grief to the Emperor is

worse than irreverence.

The country districts of the Eastern Provinces are far removed from the

capital, and there are persons who, not awed by the will of the Emperor,

subject the people, as it were, to torture by fire and torture by water.

Terrible as the conduct of such men is, the great mercy and pity of the

Emperor’s heart acknowledges that their fault is to be laid to the fact

that his precepts have not reached them; we see with reverent gratitude

that he takes their sins upon himself and that his generous rule spares

them. Further, that by the spreading of his precepts all ignorance may

cease, he undertakes a long journey, braving the heat and the cold, and

exposing his precious person to fatigue.

As far as the extreme limits of the islands of Yesso and of Liukiu

the Emperor treats all men who are born on Japanese soil as his own

children. He makes no distinctions between men—caressing the one and

repelling the other. He looks upon all alike, his mercy extends to all.

His compassionate love for his people knows no rest by day or by night.

After a while he will be pleased to visit all his dominions. The present

capital, Kiōto, has been the Imperial residence for more than a thousand

years, and in its sacred earth are buried the ancestors of the Emperor.

It follows that of all places that is the place which the Emperor reveres

the most. You, whose special privilege it is to dwell near this spot,

bathed in the dew of the Emperor’s deep mercy, reverently acknowledge

his will, and penetrated by the sense of this feeling, in all matters

humbly obey his commands. Loyalty and filial piety arouse you to observe

our upright and excellent institutions. Let each man zealously perform

his special duties, that he may relieve the mind of the Emperor of its

troubles, and let each man, so far as in him lies, set his heart upon the

sacred cause of our divine country.

Second year of Meiji (1869).

(Printed officially by the Imperial Printers, Yedo. Published by Mohei at

the Suwaraya, in the first ward of the Nihonbashi Street, and by Ichibei

at the Idzumiya in the Mishima at Shiba.)

INCLOSURE 2 IN NO. 12

EXTRACT FROM THE GOVERNMENT “GAZETTE” OF MARCH 15th, 1869

(_Translation_)

The book called “Kiōto Fu Koku Yu Dai I” (or Imperial Precepts published

to the people by the Government of Kiōto) will be circulated throughout

the cities, clans, and districts for the instruction of the people in

matters of politics and religion. Although the publication of pirated

editions of other books is strictly forbidden, an exception is made in

favour of this book.

Memories (volume 2 of 2) · 第 1 / 18 章