CHAPTER VII

FOILS—PAILLONS—GLITTER ENAMEL—DULL FINISH—PLIQUE-À-JOUR

FOILS and paillons are generally made of fine gold or fine silver leaf.

Silver foils are used on copper and gold work in order to obtain better

enamel effects, for most transparent colors are shown to best advantage

over silver. Gold foils are sometimes used on copper for similar

reasons.

The metal is first charged and fired with a coat of any enamel,

preferably a “hard running” white, that is, one that it takes a

comparatively high temperature to melt. The foil is then stuck to the

enamel by means of gum arabic, tragacanth or, in fact, some kinds of

common mucilage will answer the purpose. As Cunynghame says, “What is

wanted is a good tenacious gum, which disappears as completely as

possible when heated and leaves no carbonaceous residue to spoil the

enamel.” The foil should be cut so that it will exactly fit the enamel

surface, and cover it entirely so that none of the white enamel will

show on the finished piece. If the foil is stamped with some design it

will add greatly to the brilliancy of the enamel afterwards applied, and

if it is pierced with a number of small holes through which the fumes of

the gum can escape, it will stick smoothly to the enamel.

After the foil has been put upon the enamel, the piece should be fired

until the foil adheres strongly and smoothly to the enamel, when it is

ready for the next charging. From this point on the process does not

differ from that employed when charging directly upon the metal. (See

chapter on charging.)

Paillons are simply small bits of foil cut into dainty and artistic

shapes such as stars, fleurs-de-lis, etc. They are applied by means of

gum, as in the case of foils, on the surface of the last or upper layer

of colored enamel, after it has been fired, and the piece is again

fired, making the paillons adhere to the enamel. The piece is then

charged all over with a coat of fondant and fired, after which it is

ready to be stoned and polished, if desired.

[Illustration:

FIG. 8. STONING.

]

Glitter enamel, called by the Germans “flimmer,” is simply ground up

goldstone (Aventurin) mixed with an ordinary enamel in equal proportions

or two parts of goldstone to one of enamel. Some very striking effects

can be produced with this mixture, which should be stoned to bring out

the brilliancy of the goldstone. The best effects are obtained when some

dark opaque enamel is used.

To obtain the so-called dead or dull finish on enameled goods, it is

only necessary to submerge the piece for two or three minutes in a

solution of hydrofluoric acid. This will “etch” the enamel leaving the

surface dull like ground glass. When the piece is etched evenly all

over, it should be removed from the acid and washed and dried. The

etching will only take a few minutes if the acid is strong, and will be

done much more evenly if a mixture of hydrofluoric acid and ammonium

carbonate, known as white acid, is used.

If only part of the surface is to be dulled or etched, the part that is

not to be etched should be covered with shellac, or a mixture of three

parts beeswax and one part Burgundy pitch, and allowed to dry before the

piece is put in the acid. The acid must be kept either in lead or wax

bottles, as it eats glass very rapidly. Its fumes are very dangerous and

destroy human tissues.

If for some reason a piece has been enameled wrong, so that it is

desirable to take the enamel off the metal, this can best be done by

leaving the piece for a few hours in a solution of hydrofluoric acid

which will eat the enamel, so that it can easily be brushed off the

metal, leaving it bright.

Plique-à-jour enamel may be done in several ways. The simplest is to lay

the filigree work upon a piece of mica or fire clay and charge with

enamel, as if the mica or fire clay were the background and the filigree

work the sides of the piece. The process continues the same as in

ordinary enameling, except that just before the last firing the mica or

fire clay should be removed.

Copper or silver foil may be used instead of mica, but in this case the

filigree work must be either of gold or platinum, for the copper or

silver foil can only be removed by being dissolved in nitric acid.

The most difficult way is to mix a little gum arabic or gum tragacanth

with very finely ground enamel and charge a layer on the inner sides of

the wires which make up the filigree work. The gums will hold the enamel

in place after it is dried. When the piece has been fired, another layer

of enamel should be charged and so on, until by degrees the entire space

between the wires has been filled up. This process is tedious and

requires much skill and care, but gives very satisfactory results.

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How to Enamel Being a Treatise on the Practical Enameling of Jewelry with Hard Enamels · 第 7 / 9 章