CHAPTER I

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[Illustration: H.W. NEVINSON]

LADYSMITH

THE DIARY OF A SIEGE

BY

H.W. NEVINSON

AUTHOR OF "THE THIRTY DAYS' WAR"

METHUEN & CO.

36 ESSEX STREET W.C.

LONDON

1900

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

I. ON THE EDGE 1

II. AT THE BRITISH FRONT 9

III. THE FIRST WEEK'S WAR 20

IV. BATTLE OF ELANDS LAAGTE 30

V. BATTLE OF TINTA INYONI 41

VI. THE REVERSE AT NICHOLSON'S NEK 51

VII. HEMMED IN 61

VIII. TRAGEDY AND COMEDY 72

IX. INCIDENTS, ACCIDENTS, AND REALITIES 83

X. ENNUI ENLIVENED BY SUDDEN DEATH 100

XI. FLASHES FROM BULLER 129

XII. THE NIGHT SURPRISE ON GUN HILL 138

XIII. THE CAPTURE OF SURPRISE HILL 156

XIV. THE SEASON OF PEACE AND GOODWILL 176

XV. SICKNESS, DEATH, AND A NEW YEAR 194

XVI. THE GREAT ATTACK 211

XVII. A PAUSE AND A RENEWAL 231

XVIII. "WITHIN MEASURABLE DISTANCE" 250

XIX. HOPE DEFERRED 265

XX. SUN AND FEVER 279

XXI. RELIEVED AT LAST 291

APPENDIX 299

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR _Frontispiece_

MAP OF LADYSMITH AND NEIGHBOURHOOD 12

GENERAL SIR GEORGE STEWART WHITE, V.C., G.C.I.E., G.C.B., G.C.S.I. 18

PLAN OF THE BATTLE OF ELANDS LAAGTE 32

LOMBARD'S KOP 56

IMPERIAL LIGHT HORSE SHELTERS 77

THE DRIFT AND WATERING-PLACE 80

BULWAN 105

HOSPITAL IN TOWN HALL AFTER A SHELL 127

BREECH BLOCK FROM GUN HILL 148

A PICTURESQUE RUIN 183

HEADQUARTERS AFTER A 96LB. SHELL 186

EFFECT OF 96LB. SHELL ON A PRIVATE HOUSE 201

SPECIMEN OF BOER SHELLS 252

INDIAN BAKERY 268

GENERAL RT. HON. SIR R.H. BULLER, V.C., G.C.B., K.C.M.G., K.C.B.

(_photograph by KNIGHT, Aldershot_) 291

SKETCH PLAN OF COUNTRY SOUTH AND WEST OF LADYSMITH 306

NOTE

This book has been reprinted, by kind permission of the Proprietors of

the _Daily Chronicle_, from the full text of the Letters sent to the

paper.

LADYSMITH

THE DIARY OF A SIEGE

CHAPTER I

ON THE EDGE

NEWCASTLE, NATAL, _Thursday, October 5, 1899_.

Late last Sunday night I found myself slowly crawling towards the front

from Pretoria in a commandeered train crammed full of armed Boers and

their horses. I had rushed from the Cape to quiet little Bloemfontein,

the centre of one of the best administered States in the world, where

the heads of the nation in the intervals of discussing war proudly

showed me their pianos, their little gardens, little libraries of

English books, little museums of African beasts and Greek coins, and all

their other evidences of advancing culture. Then on to Pretoria, the

same kind of a town on a larger and richer scale--trim bungalow houses,

for the most part, spread out among gardens full of roses, honeysuckle,

and syringa. But at the station all day and night the scene was not

idyllic. Every hour train after train moved away--stores and firewood in

front, horses next, and luggage vans for the men behind. The partings

from lovers and wives and children must be imagined. They are bad enough

to witness when our own soldiers go to the front. But these men are not

soldiers at all. Each of them came direct from his home in the town or

on some isolated farm. They rode up, dressed just in their ordinary

clothes, but for the slung Mauser and the full cartridge belt over the

shoulder or round the waist. Except for a few gunners, there is no

uniform in the Boer Army. Even the officers can hardly be distinguished

from ordinary farmers. The only thing that could be called uniform is

the broad-brimmed soft hat of grey or brown. But all Boers wear it. It

is generally very stained and dirty, and invariably a rusty crape band

is wound about the crown. For the Boer, like the English poorer classes,

has large quantities of relations, and one of them is always dying.

By the courtesy of the Pretorian Government I had secured room in the

guard's van for myself and a companion, who was equally anxious to

cross the Natal frontier before the firing began, and that was expected

at any moment. In the van with us were a score of farmers from

Middleburg way, their contingent occupying four trains with about 800

men and horses. For the most part they were fine tall men with shaggy

light beards, reminding one of Yorkshire farmers, but rougher and not so

well dressed. Most of them could speak some English, and many had Scotch

or English relatives. They lay on the floor or sat on the edge of the

van, talking quietly and smoking enormous pipes. All deeply regretted

the war, regretted the farm left behind just when spring and rain are

coming, and they were full of foreboding for the women and children left

at the mercy of Kaffirs. There was no excitement or shouting or bravado

of any kind. So we travelled into the night, the monotony only broken by

one violent collision which shook us all flat on the floor, while arms

and stores fell crashing upon us. In the silent pause which followed,

whilst we wondered if we were dead, I could hear the Kaffirs chattering

in their mud huts close by, and in the distance a cornet was playing

"Home, Sweet Home," with variations.

It must have been the next evening, as we were waiting three or four

hours, as usual, for the line to clear, that General Joubert came up in

a special train. A few young men and boys in ordinary clothes formed his

"staff." The General himself wore the usual brown slouch hat with crape

band, and a blue frock coat, not luxuriously new. His beard was quite

white, but his long straight hair was still more black than grey. The

brown sallow face was deeply wrinkled and marked, but the dark brown

eyes were still bright, and looked out upon the world with a kind of

simplicity mingled with shrewdness, or perhaps some subtler quality. He

spoke English with a piquant lack of grammar and misuse of words. When I

travelled with him next day, almost the first thing he said to me was,

"The heart of my soul is bloody with sorrow." His moderating influence

on the Kruger Government is well known, and he described to me how he

had done his utmost for peace. But he also described how bit by bit

England had pushed the Boers out of their inheritance, and taken

advantage of them in every conference and native war. He was

particularly hurt that the Queen had taken no notice of the long letter

or pamphlet he wrote to her on the situation. And, by the way, I often

observed what regard most Boers appear to feel for the Queen personally.

They constantly couple her name with Gladstone's when they wish to say

anything nice about English politics. As to the General's views on the

crisis, there would be little new to say. Till the present war his hope

had been for a South African Confederacy under English protection--the

Cape, Natal, Free State, and Transvaal all having equal rights and local

self-government. He knows well enough the inner causes of the present

evils. "But now," he said, "we can only leave it to God. If it is His

will that the Transvaal perish, we can only do our best."

At Zandspruit, the scene of the old Sand River Convention, the whole

Boer camp crowded to the station to greet the national hero, and he was

at once surrounded by a herd of farmers, shaking his hands and patting

him warmly on the back. It was a respectful but democratic greeting. The

Boer Army--if for a moment we may give that name to an unorganised

collection of volunteers--is entirely democratic. The men are nominally

under field cornets, commanders, and the General. But they openly boast

that on the field the authority and direction of officers do not count

for much, and they go pretty much as they please. The camp, though not

in the least disorderly, was confused and irregular--stores, firewood,

horses, cattle, and tents strewn about the enormous veldt, almost

haphazard, though the districts were kept fairly well separate.

Provisions were plenty, but the cooking was bad. It took three days to

get bread made, and some detachments had to eat their meat raw. I think

there were not more than 10,000 or less than 7,000 men in the camp at

that time, but the commandeered trains crawled up every two or three

hours with their new loads.

By a piece of good fortune we succeeded in crossing the frontier in an

open coal-truck. The border-line runs about six miles north of Majuba

and Laing's Nek, the last Boer village being Volksrust, and Charlestown

the first English. The scenery changes rapidly; the high, bare veldt of

the Southern Transvaal is at once left behind, and we enter the broad

valley of Natal, sloping steadily down to the sea and becoming richer

and more tropical as it descends. All regular traffic had stopped three

days before, but now and then a refugee train came up to the frontier

and transhipped its miserable crowd. Fugitives of every nation have been

hurrying to the railway in hopes of escape. The stations far down into

Natal are constantly surrounded with patient groups, waiting, waiting

for an empty truck. Hindoos from Bombay and Madras with their golden

nose-rings and brilliant silks sit day and night waiting side by side

with coal-black Kaffirs in their blankets, or "blue-blooded" Zulus who

refuse to hide much of their deep chocolate skin, showing a kind of

purple bloom like a plum. The patient indifference with which these

savages will sit unmoved through any fortune and let time run over them,

is almost like the solemn calm of nature's own laws. The whites are

restless and probably suffer more. Many were in extreme misery. Three or

four young children died on the journey. One poor woman became a mother

in the train just after the frontier, and died, leaving the baby alive.

At the border I found many English and Scotch families, who had driven

across the veldt from Ermelo, surrendering all their possessions. All

spoke of the good treatment the Boers had shown them on the journey,

even when the waggon had outspanned for the night close to the Boer

camp. I came down to Newcastle with a Caithness stonemason and his

family. They had lost house, home, and livelihood. They had even

abandoned their horses and waggon on the veldt. The woman regretted her

piano, but what really touched her most was that she had to wash her

baby in cold water at the lavatory basin, and he had always been

accustomed to warm. So we stand on the perilous edge and suffer

variously.

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