CHAPTER XLII

During the time that the canoe was coming from the shore to the

vessel, Richard Lander had stationed himself by the cannon; it was

the only one on board, but it had been loaded as Lake had directed,

and pointed to the gangway of the brig, where the Brass people were

obliged to come. The muskets were all ready, lying concealed, where

Lake had directed them to be placed, and he repeated the same orders

that he had given on the preceding day, respecting the part that the

Landers' people were to take in the business.

Lake received John Lander very civilly, but immediately expressed his

determination to dismiss Boy without giving him a single article, and

to make the best of his way out of the river. A short time after the

arrival of John Lander, a canoe arrived at the beach, with Mr.

Spittle, the mate of the brig, as prisoner, who, immediately sent a

note off to the captain, informing him that the price of his

liberation was the sum demanded for the pilotage of the vessel over

the bar of the river. He said further, that he was strictly guarded,

but that, notwithstanding this, he did not despair of making his

escape, if Lake could wait a little for him. The vessel had been

brought into the river about three months before, but Lake would

never pay the pilotage, and all he did was to send Mr. Spittle a

little bread and beef. The amount demanded was about fifty pounds

worth of goods, which it was quite out of the question that Lake

would ever pay.

Meanwhile King Boy, full of gloomy forebodings, had been lingering

about the deck. He had evidently foresight enough to suspect what was

to take place, and he appeared troubled and uneasy, and bewildered in

thought. The poor fellow was quite an altered person; his habitual

haughtiness had entirely forsaken him, and given place to a cringing

and humble demeanor. A plate of meat was presented to him, of which

he ate sparingly, and showed clearly that he was thinking more of his

promised goods, than his appetite, and a quantity of rum that was

given to him was drunk carelessly, and without affording any apparent

satisfaction.

Knowing how things were likely to terminate, the Landers endeavoured

to get Boy into a good humour, by telling him that he should

certainly have his goods some time or other; but it was all to no

purpose; the attempt was a complete failure; the present was the only

time in his mind. The Landers really pitied him, and were grieved to

think that their promises could not be fulfilled. How gladly would

they have made any personal sacrifice, rather than thus break their

word; for although they had been half starved in his hands, yet they

felt themselves indebted to him for having taken them from the Eboe

people, and bringing them to the vessel. Richard Lander rummaged over

the few things which had been left them from their disaster at

Kirree, and found to his surprise, five silver bracelets wrapped up

in a piece of flannel. He was not aware of having these things, but

he immediately offered them to him, along with a native sword, which

being a very great curiosity, they had brought with them from

Yarriba, with the intention of taking it to England. Boy accepted of

them, and John Lander then offered him his watch, for which he had a

great regard, as it was the gift of one of his earliest and best

friends. This was refused with disdain, for Boy knew not its value,

and calling one of his men to look at what, he said, the Landers

wished to impose on him in lieu of his bars, both of them, with a

significant groan, turned away from the Landers with scorn and

indignation, nor would they speak to them or even look at them again.

The mortification of the Landers was nearly now complete, but they

were helpless, and the fault was not with them.

Boy now ventured to approach Captain Lake, on the quarter deck, and

with an anxious petitioning countenance, asked for the goods, which

had been promised him. Prepared for the desperate game he was about

to play, it was the object of Lake to gain as much time as possible,

that he might get his vessel under way, before he came to an open

rupture. Therefore, he pretended to be busy in writing, and desired

Boy to wait a moment. Becoming impatient with delay, Boy repeated his

demand a second and a third time: "Give me my bars." "I NO WILL,"

said Lake, in a voice of thunder, which could hardly have been

expected from a frame so emaciated as his. "I no will, I tell you; I

won't give you a--flint. Give me my mate, you black rascal, or I will

bring a thousand men of war here in a day or two; they shall come and

burn down your towns, and kill every one of you; bring me my mate."

Terrified by the demeanor of Lake, and the threats and oaths he made

use of, poor King Boy suddenly retreated, and seeing men going aloft

to loosen the sails, apprehensive of being carried off to sea, he

quickly disappeared from the deck of the brig, and was soon observed

making his way on shore in his canoe, with the rest of his people;

this was the last they saw of him. In a few minutes from the time Boy

had left the vessel, the mate, Mr. Spittle, was sent off in a canoe,

so terrified were the Brass people that a man of war would come, and

put Lake's threats into execution.

At ten in the morning the vessel was got under way, and they dropped

down the river. At noon the breeze died away, and they were obliged

to let go an anchor to prevent their drifting on the western

breakers, at the mouth of the river. A few minutes more would have

been fatal to them, and the vessel was fortunately stopped, although

the depth of water where she lay, was only five fathoms. The rollers,

as the large high waves are called, which come into the river over

the bar, were so high, that they sometimes passed nearly over the bow

of the vessel, and caused her to ride very uneasily by her anchor.

They had been obliged to anchor immediately abreast of the Pilot's

town, and expected every moment that they should be fired at from the

battery. Time was of the greatest importance to them; they had made

Boy their enemy, and expected before they could get out of the river,

he would summon his people and make an attack upon them, whilst their

whole party amounted only to twenty men, two thirds of whom were

Africans. The pilot also, whom Lake had offended so much, was known

to be a bold and treacherous ruffian. He was the same person, who

steered the brig Susan among the breakers, by which that vessel

narrowly escaped destruction, with the loss of her windlass, and an

anchor and cable. The fellow had done this, merely with the hope of

obtaining a part of the wreck, as it drifted on shore. Another

vessel, a Liverpool oil trader, was actually lost on the bar, by the

treachery of the same individual, who having effected his purpose, by

placing her in a situation, from which she could not escape, jumped

overboard and swam to the canoe, which was at a short distance. The

treatment of the survivors of this wreck is shocking to relate; they

were actually stripped of their clothes, and allowed to die of

hunger. It would be an endless task to enumerate all the misdeeds,

that are laid to this fellow's charge, which have no doubt lost

nothing by report, but after making all reasonable allowances for

exaggeration, his character appears in a most revolting light, and

the fact of his running these vessels on the bar, proves him to be a

desperate and consummate villain. This same fellow is infinitely more

artful and intelligent than any of his countrymen, and is one of the

handsomest black men that the Landers had seen.

Not long after they had dropped the anchor, they observed the pilot,

with the help of the glass, walking on the beach, and watching them

occasionally. A multitude of half-naked, suspicious-looking fellows,

were likewise straggling along the shore, while others were seen

emerging from a grove of cocoa trees, and the thick bushes near it.

These men were all armed, chiefly with muskets, and they subsequently

assembled in detached groups to the number of several hundreds, and

appeared to be consulting about attacking the vessel. Nothing less

than this, and to be fired at from the battery, was now expected by

them, and there was no doubt that the strength and loftiness of the

brig only deterred them from so doing. The same people were hovering

on the beach till very late in the evening, when they dispersed; many

of them could be seen even at midnight, so that they were obliged to

keep a good look-out till the morning.

During the night, the vessel rode very uneasily, in consequence of

the long heavy waves which set in from the bar; these are technically

called by sailors _ground swell_, being different from the waves

which are raised while the wind blows; the latter generally break at

the top, while the former are quite smooth, and roll with great

impetuosity in constant succession, forming a deep furrow between

them, which, with the force of the wave, is very dangerous to vessels

at anchor.

Their motions were still closely watched by the natives. About eleven

they got under way, but were obliged to anchor again in the

afternoon, as the water was not deep enough for the vessel to pass

over the bar. The mate sounded the bar again, and placed a buoy as a

mark for the vessel to pass over in the deepest water.

On the following morning, the wind favouring them, they made another

attempt at getting out of the river. They had already made some

progress, when the wind again died away, and the current setting them

rapidly over to the eastern breakers, they were obliged to let go an

anchor to save them from destruction. They could see nothing of the

buoy, and no doubt was entertained that it was washed away by the

current. Their anchorage was in three and a half fathom water, and

the ground swell, which then set in, heaved the vessel up and down in

such a frightful manner, that they expected every moment to see the

chain cable break. As soon as they dropped their anchor, the tide

rushed past the vessel at the rate of eight miles an hour. After the

ebb tide had ceased running, the swell gradually subsided, and the

vessel rode easily.

The mate was again sent to sound the bar, and in about three hours

afterwards, returned with the information that two fathoms and three

quarters was the deepest water he could find. The bar extended across

the mouth of the river in the form of a crescent, leaving a very

narrow and shallow entrance for vessels in the middle, which was

generally concealed by the surf and foam of the adjacent breakers.

When the wind is light and the tide high, and the surface of the

water smooth, excepting in a few places, the bar is then most

dangerous. They observed several fires made by the natives on the

beach, which were supposed to be signals for them to return.

They passed a restless and most unpleasant night. The captain and the

people were much alarmed for the safety of the brig. The heavy ground

swell, which set in, increased by the strength of the tide, caused

her to pitch and labour so hard, that a man was placed to watch the

cable, and give notice the moment it _complained_, a technical

expression, which meant, the moment it gave signs of breaking.

Daylight had scarcely dawned, when the pall of the windlass broke.

The purpose of this was to prevent the windlass from turning round on

its axis against any strain to which it might be subjected, and

consequently it was no sooner broken, than the windlass flew round

with incredible velocity, having nothing to resist the strain of the

cable, which was passed round it. The chain cable ran out so swiftly,

that in half a minute the windlass was broken to atoms. The two

Landers with their people rendered all the assistance in their power

to prevent the ship from drifting. They succeeded in fastening the

cable to ring bolts in the deck, until they got sufficient of it

clear to go round the capstan, which they had no sooner effected,

than the ring bolts were fairly drawn out of the deck by the strain

on the cable.

About eight in the evening, a terrific wave, called by sailors a

_sea_, struck the vessel with tremendous force, and broke the chain

cable. "The cable is gone," shouted a voice, and the next instant the

captain cried out in a firm, collected tone, "Cut away the kedge,"

which was promptly obeyed, and the vessel was again stopped from

drifting among the breakers. The man who had been stationed to look

out on the cable, came running aft on deck, as soon as he had given

notice of the danger, calling out that all was over. "Good God!" was

the passionate exclamation of every one, and a slight confusion

ensued. But the captain was prepared for the worst, he gave his

orders with firmness, and behaved with promptness and intrepidity.

"We were riding by the kedge, a small anchor, which, however, was the

only one left us, and on which the safety of the brig now depended.

The breakers were close under our stern, and this was not expected to

hold ten minutes; it was a forlorn hope, every eye was fixed on the

raging surf, and our hearts thrilled with agitation, expecting every

moment that the vessel would be dashed in pieces. A few long and

awful minutes were passed in this state, which left an indelible

impression on our minds. Never," continues Richard Lander, "shall I

forget the chief mate saying to me, 'Now, sir, every one for himself,

a few minutes will be the last with us.' The tumultuous sea was

raging in mountainous waves close by us, their foam dashing against

the sides of the brig, which was only prevented from being carried

among them by a weak anchor and cable. The natives, from whom they

could expect no favour, were busy on shore making large fires, and

other signals, for us to desert the brig and land at certain places,

expecting, no doubt, every moment to see her a prey to the waves, and

those who escaped their fury, to fall into their hands. Wretched

resource! the sea would have been far more merciful than they."

Such was their perilous situation, when a fine sea breeze set in,

which literally saved them from destruction. The sails were loosened

to relieve the anchor from the strain of the vessel, and she rode out

the ebb tide without drifting. At ten a.m. the tide had nearly ceased

running out, and the fury of the sea rather abated, but it was quite

impossible that the brig could ride out another ebb tide where she

lay, with the kedge anchor alone to hold her; the only chance left

them, therefore, was to get to sea, and the captain determined on

crossing the bar, although there appeared to be little chance of

success. At half-past ten a.m. he manned the boat with two of

Lander's men, and two Kroomen belonging to the brig, and sent them to

tow while the anchor was got on board. This had no sooner been done

than the wind fell light, and instead of drifting over to the western

breakers as on the two preceding days, the brig was now set towards

those on the eastern side, and again they had a narrow escape. With

the assistance of the boat and good management, they at length passed

clear over the bar on the edge of the breakers, in a depth of quarter

less three fathoms, and made sail to the eastward. Their troubles

were now at an end; by the protection of a merciful Providence, they

had escaped dangers, the very thoughts of which had filled them with

horror, and with a grateful heart and tears of joy for all his

mercies, they offered up a silent prayer of thanks for their

deliverance.

The bar extends about four or five miles from the mouth of the river,

in a southerly direction, but is by no means known. This river is by

far the best place on the whole coast, at which small vessels may

procure oil, as it is the shortest distance from the Eboe country,

where the best palm oil is to be had in any quantity. The Eboe oil is

pronounced to be superior to that of any other part of the country,

which is brought to the coast. The river is not much frequented,

owing probably to its being unknown, and the difficulty of crossing

the bar; for not more than five English vessels have been known to

come to it, two of which are stated to have been lost, and a third to

have struck on the bar, but being a new strong vessel, she beat over

into deep water. The Landers recommend any master going to the river

for palm oil, to provide himself with two good strong six-oared boats

for towing, and a double complement of Kroomen. The expense of ten or

twelve Kroomen would be trifling, as they only require a few yams and

a little palm oil to eat, and they are always ready to perform any

laborious work which may be required of them. If masters of vessels

coming to the river would send a boat before to sound, and have two

good six-oared boats towing, it is supposed there would be no danger

of any being lost, as has been the case with some, from being weakly

manned. Vessels are got under way with a fine breeze, and when they

arrive in the most dangerous part, it dies away, and if there be no

boats ready for towing, nothing can save them from destruction.

Vessels going out of the river are usually recommended to keep as

near as possible to the western breakers, but this plan is supposed

to be very dangerous, unless there be sufficient wind to keep command

of them. When a vessel leaves her anchorage in the river, she will be

set by the current over to the western breakers, and when half way to

the bar, will be set over to the eastern, as the Landers were. The

river would be the safest in the month of December or January, as the

rains in the interior would then be over, and all the extra water

will have been discharged, which it has received in the extent of

country through which it has run. When no English vessels are in the

river, the people of Bonny come and purchase the palm oil from the

Brass people, probably for the purpose of supplying the ships in

their river, as well as for their own uses.

On the morning of November 28th, they discovered a strange vessel on

their starboard beam, which directly made sail in chase of them.

After firing a gun to make them stop, or to bring them to, as the

sailors expressed themselves, she sent a boat on board of the brig,

and we found her to be the Black Joke, tender to the British

commodore's ship. The Landers reported themselves to the lieutenant

commanding her, under the hope of her taking them on board of his

vessel and landing them at Accra, from whence they thought it would

be easy to find their way by one of his majesty's ships to Ascension

or St. Helena, from either of which places an opportunity would offer

for them to get home without delay. The orders, however, of the

lieutenant were to run down the coast as far as the Congo, and he

recommended them to go to Fernando Po, where they would find every

assistance, and a vessel about to sail soon for England. Having

obtained from them the intelligence that the Spanish slaver was lying

in the Nun River ready to sail, he immediately altered his course for

that river, for the purpose of capturing her. Captain Lake agreed to

land them in his boat at Fernando Po, as he passed the island on his

way to the River Camaroons, and they again made sail to the westward.

They were two days in making their passage to Fernando Po, and on the

morning of December 1st, to their great satisfaction, they discovered

the island. They were glad to get out of the Thomas, for the

unfeeling commander, notwithstanding that Lander's men had rendered

him every service in getting his brig out of the river, and had done

every thing required of them, afterwards employed every means he

could think of to annoy them, and to make them uncomfortable, while

they were with him. At night, while the people were sleeping, he

would make his men draw water, and throw it over them, for mere

amusement. There are many commanders as bad as he is on the coast,

who seem to vie with each other in acts of cruelty and oppression.

The captain of the palm oil brig Elizabeth, now in the Calebar River,

actually whitewashed his crew from head to foot, while they were sick

with fever, and unable to protect themselves; his cook suffered so

much in the operation, that the lime totally deprived him of the

sight of one of his eyes, and rendered the other of little service to

him.

In the afternoon they were happily landed at Clarence Cove, in the

island of Fernando Po, where they were most kindly received by Mr.

Becroft, the acting superintendent. This worthy gentleman readily

supplied them with changes of linen, and every thing they stood in

need of, besides doing all he could to make them comfortable. The

kindness and hospitality they received from him and Dr. Crichton in

particular, made a grateful impression on the hearts of the Landers.

Accustomed as they had been during the last month, to the monotonous

sameness of a low flat country, the banks of the river covered with

mangroves overhanging the water, and in many parts, in consequence of

its extraordinary height, apparently growing out of it; the lofty

summit of Fernando Po, and the still loftier mountains of the

Camaroons, on the distant mainland, presented a sublime and

magnificent appearance. The highest mountain of the Camaroons, is a

striking feature on this part of the coast, being more than thirteen

thousand feet high. The land in its vicinity is low and flat, which

renders the appearance of this mountain still more imposing, as it

towers majestically over the surrounding country in solitary

grandeur. It divides the embouchures of the spacious rivers Old

Calebar and Del Rey on the west, from the equally important one of

the Cameroons on the east. The island of Fernando is detached about

twenty miles from the coast, and appeared to them, when they first

saw it, in two lofty peaks connected by a high ridge of land. The

northern peak is higher than the other, which is situated in the

southern part of the island, and rises gradually from the sea to the

height of ten thousand seven hundred feet. In clear weather the

island can be seen at the distance of more than a hundred miles; but

this is not always the case, as the summit is most frequently

concealed by clouds and fogs, which are common at certain seasons of

the year.

As they approached the island in fine weather, and with a moderate

wind, they had ample time to observe it. The shore is formed mostly

of a dark coloured rock, and covered with trees which reach down to

the water's edge. The whole of the lower part of the island is

covered with fine forest trees of various descriptions, extending

about three fourths up the sides of the mountain, where they became

thinly scattered, stinted in their growth, and interspersed with low

bushes and a brown dry grass. In various parts, patches of cultivated

ground may be seen along with the huts of the natives, presenting,

with the luxuriant foliage of the trees, a mass of verdure in the

most flourishing condition. Nature has here done her utmost; the

whole appearance of the island is of the most beautiful description,

and fully justifies its title to the name of _Ilha Formosa_,

signifying, "beautiful island," which it first received. As they

approached it still nearer, the stupendous precipices, and wide

fissures near the summit of the principal mountain, became more

distinct, by the contrast between their dark recesses and the lights

on the projecting rocks, until by the proximity of the observers to

the shore, the whole became concealed behind the lesser height next

to the sea.

Until the year 1827, the island lay forsaken and neglected in its

primitive condition, neither the Portuguese nor Spaniards having

thought it worth their consideration. At length, the attention of the

British government was directed to it, in consequence of its

favourable position for putting a stop to the slave trade in that

quarter of Africa. Situated within a few hours sail of the coast, in

the immediate vicinity of those rivers, commencing with the Camaroons

on the east, and extending along the whole of the Gold Coast, where

the principal outlets of this unlawful traffic are found, Fernando Po

presented advantages, which were sufficient to authorize a settlement

being formed on it, and Captain W. Owen sailed from England for that

purpose, in his majesty's ship Eden, with the appointment of

governor, and with Commander Harrison under his orders. Captain Owen

had been previously employed on an extensive and difficult survey of

the coasts of Africa, both in the Atlantic and Indian Oceans, in

which the shores of this island were included, and therefore, having

visited it before, he was no stranger either to its nature and

resources, or to the climate in which it is situated. Previously to

the arrival of Captain Owen, the island had been occasionally visited

by some of the ships on the African station, for the purpose of

obtaining supplies of vegetables and water, and perhaps now and then

a Liverpool trader would be seen there waiting for palm oil, or

recovering the health of her crew from fevers obtained in the rivers

on the coast. As the natives reside some distance in the interior,

the arrival of a ship of war at the island, was announced to them by

the discharge of a cannon on board, which was sufficient to bring

them to the sea side, with whatever vegetables, poultry, and other

articles they might wish to sell. The articles mostly demanded by

them in return, were pieces of iron-hoop, knives, and nails. At

first, a piece of iron-hoop about six inches long, would purchase a

pair of fowls or four yams, so great was the value which the natives

attached to iron.

The business of forming a new settlement, is a species of service

that requires the exercise of certain qualities of the mind, which it

is not the good fortune of every one to possess. In addition to the

pernicious effects of the climate on European constitutions, there

were people on the island, who, although they might be unable to

offer any serious impediment to the progress of the settlement, it

was necessary to conciliate than treat them with hostility, and for

this, no one could have been better calculated than Captain Owen.

Whatever may have induced him to relinquish the appointment of

governor, no measures for gaining the friendship of the natives, and

thereby securing their good will towards the colony, could have been

better than those which he adopted, and the chiefs even now

frequently mention his name.

The part selected as the site of the proposed settlement, was on the

northern side of the island on the borders of a small cove, formed by

a narrow neck of land projecting out from the shore on the eastern

side of it. This was named "Point William," and the cove, together

with the whole establishment was called "Clarence," after his most

gracious majesty, who was then lord high admiral of Great Britain.

Point Adelaide with two small islets off it, connected by a sand

bank, forms the western boundary of the cove, and is distant about

half a mile from Point William. Goderich Bay lies to the east, and

Cockburn Cove to the west of Clarence Cove. Under the able direction

of Captain Owen, the various buildings were planned, while the

operation of clearing the ground was going forward. A flag staff,

which formerly stood on the extremity of Point William, was removed

to the governor's house; and a large commodious building, with a few

solitary palm trees near it, is the first object which attracts

attention. This building was assigned as the hospital, and was

judiciously situated here, as it was the most exposed to the sea

breeze, and stood completely isolated from the rest of the

settlement, both which precautions were of no small importance in the

climate of Fernando Po. A small, round-topped building at a short

distance from the hospital, with a few huts near it, and surrounded

by stakes, was formerly the magazine, and near it was another large

building, used as the marine barracks. The officers' quarters, and

those of the African corps, were next in succession, and announced

their military character by a piece of artillery mounted close to

them, and pointed towards the cove. The governor's house, a large,

spacious building, stands eminently conspicuous, on the precipice of

the shore beneath, which is the landing place. From hence, a

fatiguing walk leads immediately to it, up an ascent of about one

hundred feet. A battery of seven guns were landed for this purpose

from his majesty's ship, Esk, which were placed in a very commanding

situation in front of the governor's house. The house of the mixed

commission for the adjudication of captured slave vessels, stands in

an unfinished state, at a short distance from the governor's.

Various other buildings occupy Point William, which are diversified

by a few trees, that give it a pleasing and picturesque appearance

from the sea. This remark is generally made by those who first visit

Clarence Cove, and all are pleased on first seeing it. In addition to

the buildings just enumerated, Mr. Lloyd has a tolerably good house,

and the surgeon of the colony, who is a naval officer, has also one

assigned for his residence. The Kroomen and free negroes, who amount

to about two thousand in number, have a collection of small, neat

huts, at a short distance from government house, which are

constructed of wood, and thatched with palm leaves. They are very

careful of them, and have a small garden in the front as well as

behind, in which they cultivate Indian corn, bananas, peppers, &c.

These huts form two small streets, but they are daily receiving

additions from new comers.

The work of clearing the ground is constantly going forward and is

performed by the free negroes, the African troops, and the Kroomen.

The principal disease amongst these people, which arises from

accidents in cutting down the trees, is ulcerated legs, and sixteen

of them were in the hospital from this cause alone. The Kroomen are a

particular race of people, differing entirely from the other African

tribes. They inhabit a country called Sotta Krou, on the coast near

Cape Palmas; their principal employment being of a maritime nature.

Their language, as well as their general character, is also different

from that of their neighbours. A certain number of these men are

always employed on board of the ships of war on the African coast,

for the purpose of performing those duties where considerable fatigue

and exposure to the sun are experienced. In consequence of their

roving employment, they are to be found on all parts of the coast,

and are sufficiently acquainted with it to serve as pilots. It is

customary with them to establish themselves on various parts of the

coast for this purpose, and to leave the elders of their tribes in

their own country, unless their presence should be required by any

war that might take place. They are said to return to their country

after an absence of several years, when they have amassed by their

industry, sufficient to maintain themselves, and some among them are

intelligent and active, but they are not always to be trusted,

although they are a very superior class of people, in comparison with

other African tribes.

Besides a watering place at a short distance to the right of the

governor's house, two small streams, Hay brook and Horton brook, run

into Goderich Bay, affording plenty of excellent water, and capable

of admitting boats. The watering place, above-mentioned, is generally

frequented, from the convenience with which the water is obtained,

being connected to the sea side by a wooden aqueduct, under which

boats may lie and fill their casks very easily without removing them.

When the Landers arrived, Clarence establishment consisted of the

superintendent, or acting governor, Mr. Becroft, who was generally

known by the title of captain; Captain Beattie, the commander of the

Portia, colonial schooner; Mr. Crichton, a naval surgeon; Lieutenant

Stockwell, with a party of five or six marines; a mulatto ensign of

the royal African corps, with two black companions from Sierra Leone,

and some carpenters and sail-makers, besides a mulatto, who filled

the office of clerk or secretary to Mr. Becroft; an English merchant

of the name of Lloyd, in the employment of Mr. Smith, whose residence

has been already mentioned.

No place, in point of convenience, could have been better selected

for a settlement, than that on which Clarence is situated. The bay

affords safe anchorage for shipping, from the furious tornadoes,

which are common in this part of the world, and is sufficiently

capacious to shelter as many vessels as are likely to visit the

island; it abounds with fish, and is free from sunken rocks, and the

shore is steep and easy of access to boats. There is another bay,

called George's Bay, on the western side of the island, but it has

the disadvantage of being open to that quarter, and consequently

affords no safety to shipping. The proximity of Clarence Cove to the

coast of Africa, is also another important point in favour of the

object for which the establishment was formed.

The natives of Fernando Po are the filthiest race of people in the

whole world. They are different in their manners and appearance from

their neighbours on the coast, to whom the Landers had of late been

so much accustomed, and possess no single trait of character similar

to them, except that of pilfering. In point of civilization, to which

the natives of Brass Town have not the most distant pretensions,

these people have even still less; their language is totally

different, and they have no resemblance whatever to them. This in

itself affords a tolerable proof of the little intercourse they have

had with the world, for while the other islands of the gulf are

plentifully stocked with the same race of people as those of the

coast, Fernando Po which is so much nearer to it, is inhabited by a

totally different class. They are, generally speaking, a stout,

athletic, and well-made race of people, and peculiarly harmless and

peaceably inclined in their dispositions, although each individual is

generally armed with a spear about eight feet in length, made of a

hard wood, and barbed at one end. They appeared also to be a healthy

race of people, for although here and there one or two might be less

favoured by nature in their persons, no signs of the diseases so

common among the natives of Africa were to be seen amongst them.

They have already been described as a filthy race, but no words can

convey an idea of their disgusting nature. They have long hair, which

it is difficult to distinguish, from being matted together with red

clay and palm oil. The clay and oil are so profusely laid on; that it

forms an impenetrable shield for the head, and the long tresses,

which descend to their shoulders, are generally in a moist condition.

Although this covering is a complete safeguard to all inconvenience

from without, they still further adorn their heads with a kind of

cap, made of dry grass, ornamented round the border with the feathers

of fowls, or any other bird, carefully stuck into it apart from each

other. Some are so vain as to affix the horns of a ram in front of

this cap, which gives them a most strange and ludicrous appearance.

Finally, the cap with all its ornaments of feathers, horns, shells,

&c. is secured in its place with a piece of stick, which answers the

purpose by being forced through it on one side and out on the

opposite, after passing underneath the hair. Sometimes this elegant

pin, as it may be called, is formed of the leg bone of some small

animal, and is pointed at one end for the purpose of penetrating more

easily. The expression of their countenance, scared and marked as it

is, and surmounted by the cap already described, is wild and

barbarous. They smear their faces entirely over with red clay, mixed

with palm oil, sometimes a kind of grey dust is used instead of the

clay, and this preparation being equally distributed over their whole

persons, renders their presence scarcely tolerable. It is difficult

to find out the colour of their skin under the filthy covering of oil

and clay by which it is concealed, but it is believed not to be so

dark as the African negro, and more resembling a copper colour.

The natives make use of no other dress than the cap, which they wear

on their heads, but a few leaves, or a bunch of dried grass, are

usually secured round the middle by the people of both sexes, while

the younger, naturally unconscious of indecency, go entirely naked.

The vertebrae of snakes, the bones of fowls and birds, as well as

sheep, broken shells, small beads, and pieces of cocoa nut shell are

put in requisition by the natives, for the ornament of their persons.

A profusion of these strung together hang round the waist, which it

seems to be the principal care to decorate in this manner, while

their necks are scarcely less favoured with a proportion of these

articles. Strings of them are also fastened round the arms and legs,

but not in such quantities as round the waist. The pieces of hoop

they have obtained from the ships which have visited the island, are

formed into rude knives, or polished, and worn on the arm, in a kind

of band made of straw, and are much valued. In their first

intercourse with Europeans, the natives were very shy, and displayed

much fear, but this gradually wore off, and they now venture boldly

on board for the purpose of obtaining knives, hatchets, or any thing

they can get. They have a few canoes of small dimensions, capable of

containing ten or twelve people, but are not very expert in the

management of them, although they are so far advanced as to make use

of a mast and sail, which latter is constructed of a sort of mat.

They seem to be little addicted to the water, and none were seen

amongst them; who could swim. In their fishing excursions, the

natives are generally very successful, and those who pursue this mode

of obtaining their livelihood, are compelled to adhere to it, and

allowed to have nothing to do with cultivating the land. They

exchange their fish for yams, and thus the wants of the fishermen and

the cultivators are both supplied.

On the first visit of ships to this island, very considerable

aversion was shown by the natives to any of their people attempting

to go to their huts, or even to their endeavouring to penetrate into

the woods, although only a short distance from the shore, from a fear

perhaps of their plantations being plundered. Their huts, which are

of the rudest construction imaginable, may be distinctly seen amongst

the trees in small groups, surrounding a clear space of ground, in

which they cultivate the yam, and are formed of a few stakes driven

firmly into the ground, thatched over with the palm leaf, the sides

being completed with a sort of wicker work. They are about ten or

twelve feet long, and half that in breadth, and not more than four or

five feet in height. Their only furniture consists of some long flat

pieces of wood, raised a few inches from the ground, and slightly

hollowed out, to answer the purpose of sleeping in.

Numerous instances have occurred, of the thieving propensities of the

natives, and it required, at first, a considerable degree of

vigilance to prevent them from being successful, but it is due to the

chiefs to say, that since the establishment of Clarence, they have

invariably taken an active part in putting a stop to it. Whatever may

have been their habits previously to the formation of the settlement,

they seem to be little improved by their intercourse with the

settlers. Their principal chief has received the formidable

appellation of cut-throat from Captain Owen, a name, by which he will

be known as long as he lives. This fellow is a most determined

savage, and seems to have lost none of his natural propensities by

communicating with the settlers. He has received innumerable presents

from the English, of clothes, and a variety of things, which are all

thrown away upon him, and he goes about as usual, wearing his little

hat, with feathers stuck in it, and the long grass about his waist,

disdaining such useless coverings as he imagines them. This is not to

be wondered at, for accustomed as he has been all his life time, to

the unrestrained freedom of his whole person, it would be rather a

matter of surprise to see him make use of them, particularly in the

climate of Fernando Po, where one almost wishes to follow the example

of the natives, excepting in the use of their clay and palm oil. No

doubt Cut-throat thinks this quite a sufficient covering.

The natives pay frequent visits to the colony, and, however they may

deal out justice amongst themselves, are by no means backward in

seeing it administered among the free negroes and Kroomen of

Clarence. It frequently happens, that in the scarcity of live stock,

some of the former, unable to restrain their desire for more

substantial food, and tired of their Indian corn, venture to help

themselves to what the natives will not bring them; parties of these

people are accordingly formed, who find their way to the huts of the

natives in the interior, and steal their yams, goats, and sheep, or

whatever they meet with. These depredations are sure to bring the

unfortunate owners to the colony with complaints of their losses,

which are laid before the governor. The negroes are then mustered

before them, and the native who has been plundered, is allowed, if he

can do so, to point out the thief. If he should be successful, which

is frequently the case, he is allowed to witness the punishment,

which the offender is sentenced to receive, and generally gets some

recompense for his loss. On the Sunday after the arrival of the

Landers at Clarence, a party of four Kroomen set off into the

interior, with the full determination of plunder, let the

consequences be what it might. They had not gone far before they met

with a goat belonging to a native, which they immediately shot, and

returned with it carefully concealed, that they might not be

discovered. Their precautions, however, were of little avail, for the

owner of the animal accompanied by a party of his friends, made his

appearance at Clarence the next morning, and preferred his complaint

in strong terms against the luckless Kroomen, whom, it appeared, he

knew perfectly well. The Kroomen were accordingly mustered, and the

very four, who had gone on this unfortunate expedition, were pointed

out with exultation by the natives. The law took its course, the

Kroomen each received one hundred and fifty lashes from the African

drummer, usually employed on these occasions, while the natives stood

by, to see that the punishment was duly performed. This they did to

admiration, by counting the number of lashes each received; and

having witnessed the last punished, with eyes sparkling with brutal

satisfaction at the tortures of the unfortunate sufferers, they went

away quite satisfied. The place where this disagreeable operation is

performed, is in the barrack yard, on Point William, between the

officers' house and the hospital. The culprit is tied up to a kind of

strong gallows, erected for the purpose. Two stout pieces of timber,

about seven or eight feet high, are driven perpendicularly into the

ground, about four feet apart from each other, a piece is secured

firmly across them at the top, and another at a short distance from

the ground. The hands of the man who is to be punished, are tied at

each end of the upright pieces, and his legs are secured to the same

on each side below, in which position he is exposed to the merciless

scourge of the drummer, which is a common cat-o-nine-tails. It is

painful even to think of such scenes as these, and when they take

place at the mere whim and caprice of the hardened slave merchant,

such a picture is revolting in the extreme. Here, however, severe as

it may appear, it must be looked upon in a different point of view.

The punishment is great, but with the certainty of receiving it, if

discovered, the negro will run the risk of incurring it, by what may

be termed the breach of the first law of civilized society. In

addition to the tendency it has to keep the free blacks in control,

such a proceeding convinces the natives of the island, that their

depredations are not sanctioned by the colony. Were some punishment

not instituted to curb the restless, pilfering propensities of these

people, no order could be maintained; they would return to a worse

condition, than that which they were in at first, and the colony

would no longer be secure; for the natives of the island, finding

their homes invaded, and their property carried off, unable to obtain

redress, would soon take the law into their own hands, and would

either murder the colonists, or drive them from the island.

Therefore, although a severe one, it is a salutary measure, and it

has no doubt done much towards keeping the natives themselves honest.

What punishment is adopted by the natives, the Landers were not able

to ascertain. The chiefs appear to possess considerable authority

over them, and it is not improbable that the custom of the settlement

is imitated in some shape or other.

The only weapon used by the natives, excepting the knife before

mentioned, is a spear, of about eight feet in length, made of iron

wood, and barbed at one end. The nature of the wood is so hard, as

not to require the protection of iron at the end, and they did not

see any pointed with it. They are very plentiful amongst the natives,

who do not appear to attach any particular value to them. The Landers

during their stay had no opportunity of witnessing their expertness

with them, but they are said to use them for killing monkeys and

other animals.

The resources of the island, in point of provisions are exhausted, or

the natives are determined to reserve what are left for their own

purposes. On the first formation of the establishment, they gladly

brought to market all they had to dispose of, in the same manner as

they had done to any vessel that chanced to visit the island. These

consisted of a few goats, sheep, and fowls, of a very poor quality,

and plenty of yams, which were all readily exchanged for pieces of

iron hoop, of about six inches long. A piece of hoop of this length

would purchase a goat, three or four fowls, or a large bundle of

yams, weighing about twenty pounds. As their stock became exhausted,

so the iron hoops became less valuable; more were demanded, until the

natives could no longer supply the settlement, and had enough to do

to provide for themselves, when they discontinued their supplies, and

the settlement, not yet able to provide for itself, is dependent on

supplies from the Calebar, and other rivers near it. Bullocks are

stated by the natives, to be plentiful on the hills in the interior,

but the Landers did not hear of any having been seen by the people of

Clarence, and they are generally obtained from the Calebar River.

Deer are also said to be on the island, abundance of wild fowl, and a

great number of monkeys, some black and others of a brown colour.

Parrots are also innumerable, and the natives are particularly

partial to them and monkeys for food. Turtle have been caught in the

bay, as well as fish, but these supplies are uncertain, and,

therefore, not to be depended upon. The island is entirely

mountainous, and contains a fine rich soil, capable of producing any

thing required of it. Several small mountain streams fall into the

sea, the largest of which are the two, named Hay and Horton Brooks,

before mentioned. The principal vegetable cultivated by the natives

is the yam, with which they are particularly successful. The best

yams of the island are said to be those of George's Bay, which are

very large, and of an uncommonly fine flavour. The supply of these at

Clarence is now very limited, and not to be depended on always, which

may be probably to a difference in the season for growing them. This

deficiency has been in some measure remedied by the construction of a

government garden, from which some men of war have received supplies,

but these are not sufficient to supply the wants of the colony, and

recourse is had for them to the Calebar River.

Palm wine at the colony, as well as on the coast, is the common and

favourite drink of the natives. It is easily procured in any

quantity, and is used in either an unfermented state, when just fresh

from the tree, or after it has been kept some days. It seems

peculiarly intended by a bountiful providence for the untutored and

destitute Indian, who is unable to supply himself with those

beverages which are the result of art. The palm tree affords him a

pleasant drink, a valuable oil, a fruit from the nut, and besides

food, it furnishes him with a material to construct his hut, and is

always ready for any immediate purpose. The juice, which is called

"wine," is obtained by making a hole in the trunk of the tree, and

inserting a piece of the leaf into it, so as to form a spout; the

liquid flows through this, and is received in a calabash placed

beneath it, which probably holds two or three gallons, and will be

thus filled in the course of a day. It shortly assumes a milky

appearance, and is either used in this state, or preserved till it

acquires rather a bitter flavour. The produce of the palm tree, fish,

and yams, form the principal food of the natives; they devour monkeys

when they can get them.

This method of obtaining the juice of the palm tree is exactly

similar to that which is adopted by the Indians of North America,

with respect to the maple tree. A hole is made in the same manner in

the trunk of the tree, and a piece of birch bark inserted into it as

a spout, which, from its peculiar nature, answers the purpose

remarkably well. The juice of the maple instead of being preserved is

converted into sugar by evaporation. There are various sorts of

timber at Fernando Po, amongst which the African oak is very

plentiful, and particularly so in George's Bay, where it grows close

to the sea side; satin wood, ebony, lignum vitæ, yellow cam wood, and

several sorts of mahogany, besides other wood of a very hard nature,

grow in profusion all over the island, and may probably hereafter

become valuable.

The Landers had the good fortune to arrive at the island during the

season of fine weather, but they had not enjoyed much of the sea

breeze, which about noon, sometimes set in from the north west

quarter, The harmattan is said to be experienced here, although it

extends not to the other islands of the gulf. This wind, which passes

over the sands of Africa, would be almost insupportable, were it not

for the sea breezes. While the harmattan lasts, the dryness in the

atmosphere produces an unpleasant feeling, although it is said not to

be injurious to health. The atmosphere is filled with a fine light

sand, which prevents objects from being distinctly seen; the sun

loses its brilliancy, and everything appears parched and suffering

from a want of moisture. The effect of the harmattan after the rainy

season is said to be most beneficial in drying up the vapours with

which the atmosphere is loaded, and it has been observed, that on the

return of this wind at the end of the rainy season, the recovery of

invalids commences. The harmattan has also the effect of drying up

the skin of the natives in a very extraordinary manner. After an

exposure to it, the skin peals off in white scales from their whole

body, which assumes an appearance as if it were covered over with

white dust.

The islands in the gulf of Guinea, with the exception of Fernando Po,

have each a capital town of some consequence, and although they

produce sufficient supplies for ships that visit them, and carry on a

small trade, it is much to be doubted, whether they are not more

indebted for their importance to the slave trade than any other

source. With respect to Prince's Island and St. Thomas, they are

known to be the receptacles for slaves from the coast, from whence

they are re-embarked and conveyed away as opportunities offer; and

the natives of the small island of Anna Bon, appear to be living in

constant fear of the same, from the effects of their former treatment

by the Spaniards.

The natives of Anna Bon, have a tradition that they once belonged to

the Portuguese, and exhibit proofs of their having been formerly

initiated in the ceremonies of the Roman Catholic religion. They are

said to be particularly careful, when any stranger visits their

settlement, to let them see their church, which is appropriately

situated for this purpose immediately opposite the landing place. At

present, by all accounts, they are living in a state of natural

simplicity and ignorance of the world. Some idea may be formed of the

condition of their minds, by a story that is currently related of

them, in which the effects of their former tuition are apparent. The

king once gravely told a visitor, with an idea of impressing him with

his importance, that a short time previously to his arrival, he had

held a conference with the supreme being, from whom he had learnt the

cause of a recent sickness which had visited them, and also that he

had approved of his being the king of the island. Other stories,

equally nonsensical, are told of them, such as might be expected from

people in this half-informed condition. But the old king's word was

sufficient for his subjects, and this assurance was quite enough to

satisfy the harmless, inoffensive creatures, that he was their

legitimate king. Although Anna Bon is a healthy island in comparison

with any other in the Gulf of Guinea; it is too far removed from the

coast to be of use in putting down the slave trade, unless it were

made a rendezvous for half a dozen steam vessels, which would do more

than any other class of vessels towards effecting this object.

Favourable as the situation of Clarence is for the purpose for which

it is intended, it is much to be regretted that it is so unhealthy

for Europeans. During the stay of the Landers on the island, four

deaths occurred; these persons were the sail maker, one of the

carpenters of the colony, a seaman of the Portia, a colonial

schooner, and one of the crew of the Susan, an English brig that they

found there, on their arrival. The Susan was in the Calebar, waiting

for a cargo, when her crew were attacked with fever, which quickly

carried off her captain, mates, and left only one person alive. The

vessel thus reduced, was without her crew to bring her out of the

river, much less to complete her cargo, and she might have remained

there till the last had died, but for the watchful attention of Mr.

Becroft, who brought her to Clarence with a party of men, and after

putting a new mast into her, and doing all in his power to set the

vessel in order, supplied her with provisions and fresh people, and

sent her to sea. The Landers were offered a passage in her to

England, but declined accepting it in consequence of the condition in

which she had been. She was afterwards obliged to stop at Cape Coast,

in consequence of the fever having broken out afresh on board of her.

The most melancholy account of the effects of the climate here, which

came within the knowledge of the Landers, was in the family of

Lieutenant Stockwell, the officer commanding the party of marines,

whose name has been already mentioned. This gentleman had brought his

wife and a large family with him from the island of Ascension, who

were residing with his brother officer in a building called the

Waterfall House, which had been erected by Captain Owen. Mr.

Stockwell successively lost five of his children, and five servants,

the latter of whom successively died, as they came into his service.

His brother officer also died, making eleven in number, and Mr.

Stockwell and his wife narrowly escaped with their lives. The house

was in consequence deserted by them, and since been occupied by the

black people. The fever, which attacks Europeans at this island, is

said to be similar to the yellow fever in the West Indies. The

symptoms are the same, from the commencement to the end of the

disease, and it is equally as summary in its effects. George's Bay,

is said to be far healthier than Clarence, and being on the western

side of the island, receives the full benefit of the sea breeze,

while at Clarence, the wind is later, and is interrupted by land to

the westward of it. In addition to this, the sea breeze passes over a

long and disagreeable swamp in its progress to Clarence, which no

doubt charges it with all kinds of noxious vapours. George's Bay,

besides having the benefit of a pure sea breeze, has a good deal of

clear land about it, and equally as good a soil as Clarence.

It is more than probable, as the Landers had now ascertained, that a

water communication may be carried on with so extensive a part of the

interior of Africa, that a considerable trade will be opened with the

country through which they had passed. The natives only require to

know what is wanted from them, and to be shown what they will have in

return, and much produce that is now lost from neglect, will be

turned to a considerable account. The countries situated on the

banks of the Niger, will become frequented from all the adjacent

parts, and this magnificent stream will assume an appearance, it has

never yet displayed. The first effects of a trade being opened, will

be to do away with the monopoly near the mouth of the river, which

has hitherto been held by the chiefs of the lower countries. Steam

boats will penetrate up the river even as far as Lever, at the time

of year in which the Landers came down, and will defy the efforts of

these monopolists to arrest their progress. The steam engine, the

greatest invention of the human mind, will be a fit means of

conveying civilization amongst the uninformed Africans, who,

incapable of comprehending such a thing, will view its arrival

amongst them with astonishment and terror, and will gradually learn

to appreciate the benefits they will derive, and to hail its arrival

with joy. In this case, Fernando Po will become of still greater

consequence, and will no doubt be a depot of considerable importance.

It was, however, the opinion of Richard Lander, that much expense

would be saved, and above all, many valuable lives, if it were

possible to adopt George's Bay, as the place for the principal

establishment. Of the different parts of the coast, Accra is the most

healthy, and were it nearer, Lander would recommend it for such a

purpose, the soil being good and clear of underwood for many miles

round. But the distance at which it lies from the mouth of the river

is too great for such a purpose.

On the 23rd December, Mr. Becroft, the superintendent, invited

Richard Lander to accompany him in the Portia, to the Calebar River,

whither he was going to procure stock for the use of the colony. The

place from which this is obtained, is called Ephraim Town, where it

appears to be very plentiful. Being tired of Fernando Po, Lander

accepted his invitation, in order to pass away the time that they

would still have to wait before they could get away, notwithstanding

all their anxiety to reach home with the news of their discovery.

John Lander, being very ill, was unable to accompany them. Richard,

therefore, left him at Clarence, and embarked with Mr. Becroft in the

evening. They departed from Clarence with a fine breeze, but found it

necessary in going out, to be particularly careful of being drifted

by the tide, either on Point William, or on the Adelaide islets at

each extremity of the cove, as the tide always sets either towards

the one or the other. In leaving the cove, it is best to keep, as

near as possible, midway between the two extremes, and not to

approach either the one or the other, nearer than can be possibly

avoided. The currents in the Gulf of Guinea are stated to be very

variable, although they are most generally from the westward, obeying

the direction of the sea breeze. The harmattan generally produces a

very strong westerly current in direct opposition to this, and the

want of knowing it, has frequently proved fatal to vessels; the

masters of which, imagining that they were under the influence of an

easterly current, have been actually drifted many miles to the

westward in the course of a single night, and have found themselves

on shore the next morning; the violence of the current from the

westward when the sea breezes are strong, is so great, that it is

scarcely possible to believe, that a day or two of the harmattan

would overcome it, but the effect of this is so powerful, that it is

well known, to those, who have frequented the gulf, that the current

produced by the harmattan, will even continue against the westerly

winds, after they may have again set in. A remarkable instance is

related of the velocity of the currents in the gulf, to the southward

of Fernando Po. In the month of June, a vessel performed the passage

between Prince's Island and St. Thomas in twenty hours, which

generally occupies from eight to ten days. The distance is about

ninety three miles, and the vessel must have averaged from four to

six miles per hour. The harmattan is said not to extend to the

southward of Fernando Po, but this has not yet been fully

ascertained.

The passage through the gulf from Fernando Po to Sierra Leone, is

generally extremely long and tedious, owing to the prevalence of

calms and the different currents. It is usually made either by

running to the southward and getting into the southeast trade, or by

keeping in shore, as far as Cape Palmas, so as to benefit by the

landwinds. The former method is generally recommended by the

merchantmen as being safer and quicker, for a vessel adopting the

latter, is more under the dangerous influence of the currents,

besides being obliged to keep close to the shore; it is also adopted

by the merchantmen in their homeward voyage. Sometimes vessels by

taking a mean between these two methods, get between two different

winds, by which means they lose the benefit of both, and are delayed

by calms and rains. This part, according to accurate information, is

at the distance of sixty miles from the land, so that vessels should

pass either far without or else within that distance on leaving

Fernando Po.

In this part of the Gulf of Guinea, between Fernando Po and the

Calebar River, the rainy season is stated to commence in the month of

July, and to be at the worst in August and September, accompanied by

tornadoes of the most terrific description. The rains continue during

November, and cease in the month of December, but the coast is said

to be seldom many days together without a tornado. During the other

months of the year, dry, hot weather is experienced, excepting about

May, when slight rains take place. These rains are looked upon as the

winter of the natives, and are considered by them equally as cold in

their effects, as our winters in England are by ourselves. They are

equally alive to the change of the seasons as in northern countries,

and prepare themselves against the cold weather during the rains,

comparatively with as much care, as we do against our winter's frost.

The chief peculiarity of this climate, which distinguishes it from

all others within the tropics, consists in the furious storms of wind

and rain, accompanied by the most terrific thunder and lightning it

is possible to imagine. These storms are known by the name of

tornadoes, and one would be almost inclined to think that the

ancient's belief of the torrid zone being of a fiery nature, and too

hot for mankind to live in, originated in the exaggerated reports of

them, which might have gradually found their way into the part of the

world then known, and from which they were not very far distant. The

Landers witnessed three of these tornadoes, but they were trifling in

their effects, compared with those which take place in the rainy

season. They are described as being most violent, but happily of

short duration; nothing can withstand the fury of the wind while they

last, but they give sufficient indications of their approach, to

enable the experienced mariner, who is ever on the watch for the

changes in the weather, to reduce his sail on the ship, and put her

head in that position, in which she is best able to withstand its

effects, by running before the wind. This awful period lasts

generally about a quarter of an hour, when the wind subsides rather

suddenly, while the rain falls incessantly; shortly afterwards, the

wind shifts round by the south to its old quarter, the west, until

another tornado comes to disturb it. There are several peculiarities

attending the tornadoes, which are rather remarkable. It has been

remarked by experienced navigators, that they are much influenced by

the different phases of the moon, that they generally commence with

the full or new moon, at which time they are the most violent, and

that they even come on at the time that the moon sets. The influence

of the moon on the weather In other countries is doubted, but this is

an extraordinary fact, relating to the tornadoes, which has been

proved by experience.

On Saturday December 25th, after a pleasing passage, Richard Lander,

in company with Mr. Becroft, anchored off Ephraim Town, in the

Calebar River. The distance from Fernando Po to the north of the

Calebar River, is about sixty miles, and Ephraim Town is distant

about fifty miles, on the eastern bank. On their way up the river,

the attention of Richard Lander was attracted by something of a very

extraordinary appearance, hanging over the water from the branch of a

tree. His curiosity was excited by it, and he was at a loss to

conjecture what it was. He did not remain long in suspense, for they

soon passed sufficiently near it to enable him to discover, that it

was the body of one of the natives suspended by the middle, with the

feet and hands just touching the water. So barbarous a sight quickly

reminded him, that he was again amongst the poor deluded wretches on

the coast, although he had not seen any thing so bad on his way down

to the Brig Thomas, in the River Nun. The natives of this place are

Pagans, in the most depraved condition, and know nothing of

Mahommedanism, nor any other creed. They believe in a good spirit,

who they imagine dwells in the water, and sacrifices of human beings,

such as that which has just been mentioned, are frequently made to

him, with the idea of gaining his favour and protection. The object

selected for this purpose is generally some unfortunate old slave,

who may be worn out and incapable of further service, or unfit for

the market, and he is there left to suffer death, either from the

effects of the sun, or from the fangs of some hungry alligator or

shark, which may chance to find the body. The circumstance of the

hands and feet being just allowed to be immersed in the water, is

considered by these deluded people as necessary, and they are thereby

rendered an easier prey.

It is usual with ships on their first arrival in the river, to be

visited by Duke Ephraim, the chief of the town; a personage who is

well known to the numerous Liverpool traders, that frequent the

river. The reason of this visit is, that the duke may receive his

present, which consists generally of cloth, muskets, rum, or any

articles of that description, and he always goes on board in great

state, in his canoe, for this purpose, previously to which, no one is

allowed to leave the ship. This regulation, which is a method of

securing the port dues, affects those only, who come to the river for

the purpose of trade, and as the Portia was a government vessel,

they were not included in the number of those, who had the port dues

to pay. As soon as they had anchored, Richard Lander accompanied Mr.

Becroft on shore, and proceeded with him to the duke's residence, for

the purpose of paying their respects to him. A walk of about ten

minutes brought them to his house, and they found him in the palaver

square which belongs to it, busily engaged in writing, and surrounded

by a great number of his principal people. It was something unusual

to find a native chief thus employed, but the large dealings which

Duke Ephraim appears to have with the Liverpool merchants, accounts

in some measure for this accomplishment, and the smattering of

English which he has obtained. His only pretensions to dress,

consisted in a smart, gold laced hat, which he wore, and a handsome

piece of silk tied round his loins. His chief officers, who were next

to him, also wore gold laced hats, while those next in rank wore

silver lace, and the lower class contented themselves without either.

They arrived at council time, but Mr. Becroft being immediately

recognized by the duke, he received them very cordially, and made

them sit down. Duke Ephraim bears the character of being always very

civil and attentive to the English, and of making himself very active

in supplying their wants of live stock. He has formed a favourable

opinion of them, from the fine things they bring him, but his

discernment goes beyond these; for the circumstance of slave vessels

having being captured and taken out of the river, by the boats of the

English ships of war on the station, has impressed him with

admiration of their boldness and courage, and given him a very

exalted opinion of their power. Vessels of war formerly came up the

river in search of slaves, and he has always received their

commanders with much kindness, and assisted them all in his power; a

trait in his character, which is rather extraordinary, when their

object is considered, as he is the principal agent by whom supplies

of slaves are furnished from the interior. None, however, are

allowed to come up now, in consequence of the deaths that have

occurred.

After a short time, they were desired to go up stairs into his best

room, and they accordingly ascended about thirty or forty wooden

steps, and entered a spacious apartment, when the sight that

presented itself was of the most extraordinary description. The room,

which was about thirty feet in length, by about twenty in breadth,

was literally crammed full of all kinds of European furniture,

covered with cobwebs and dust about half an inch thick. Elegant

tables and chairs, sofas of a magnificent description, splendid

looking-glasses, and prints of the principal public characters of

England, as well as views of sea and land engagements, set in

handsome gilt frames, beautifully cut glass decanters, and glasses,

glass chandeliers, and a number of other things, too numerous to

mention, were all mixed together in the utmost confusion. A handsome

organ attracted the notice of Lander, and a large, solid brass

arm-chair, which from an inscription upon it, appeared to be the

present of Sir John Tobin of Liverpool. The inscription, or rather

raised characters upon it were, "Presented by Sir John Tobin of

Liverpool, to his friend Duke Ephraim," and vain enough is the chief

of his present. He exhibits this chair with the rest of his presents

to the people, or any stranger who may happen to visit him, and

allows them to feast their eyes, as he imagines, on the goodly sight,

but such are his care and pride of them, that he will not allow them

to be touched by any one, and his attendants are not permitted to

approach them, even for the purpose of cleaning off the dust which

has accumulated since their first arrival. The whole of this

miscellaneous assemblage of goods, are presents which have been made

to the duke by merchants of Liverpool, as well as French, Spanish,

and Portuguese traders, and are the accumulation of a considerable

length of time.

Duke Town, or Ephraim Town, as it is known by both of these

appellations, is situated on rather elevated ground, On the left or

east bank of the river, and is of considerable size, extending

principally along it. From the appearance of it, it may be concluded

that its inhabitants amount to at least six thousand people. The

houses are generally built of clay, like those of the Eboe people.

The breadth of the river opposite to it, is not quite so wide as the

Thames at Waterloo Bridge, and the opposite bank is not so high as

that on which the town stands. The houses are built in an irregular

manner, leaving very little room for the road between them, which at

that time was exceedingly wet and dirty. The duke's house is situate

in the middle of the town, and like the rest is built of clay. It

consists of several squares, round each of which is a verandah,

similar to the houses in Yarriba. The centre square is occupied by

the duke and his wives, the others being the abode of his servants

and attendants, which altogether amount to a considerable number.

Immediately opposite to the first square, which forms the entrance to

his residence, stands a small tree, profusely decorated with human

skulls and bones. This tree is considered by the people as fetish or

sacred, and is supposed to possess the virtue of preventing the evil

spirit from entering the duke's residence. Near the tree stands the

house, which is inhabited by their priests, a class of beings,

certainly in the most savage condition of nature that it is possible

to imagine. The fetish priests of Brass Town, chalked themselves from

head to foot, besides dressing after a fashion of their own, but

these fellows outdo them far, and make themselves the most hideous

and disgusting objects possible.

Whether it may be with the idea of personifying the evil spirit of

whom they are so afraid, Lander could not learn, but they go about

the town with a human skull fastened over their face, so that they

can see through the eye-holes; this is surmounted by a pair of

bullock's horns; their body is covered with net, made of stained

grass, and to complete the whole, and give them an appearance as

ridiculous behind as they are hideous before, a bullock's tail

protrudes through the dress, and hangs down to the ground, rendering

them altogether the most uncouth looking beings imaginable. Sometimes

a cocked hat is substituted for the horns, and the skull of a dog or

monkey used, which renders their appearance, if possible, still more

grotesque. Thus equipped, they are ready to perform the mysteries of

their profession, which Lander had not sufficient opportunity to

inquire into, but which are quite enough to enslave the minds of the

people. They seem to believe in a good and evil spirit; that the good

spirit dwells in the river, which accounts for their sacrifices being

made on it, and that the evil spirit dwells in a tree, which being

full of human skulls, keeps him away from them.

On the morning of the 26th, the duke's principal man came on board

the Portia to receive payment for some bullocks, which Mr. Becroft

had purchased. There was something in his appearance which attracted

the attention of Lander, and he fancied that he seemed to be much

dirtier than any that had been seen on the preceding day. On a nearer

inspection, his head, and the whole of his body were found to be

covered with ashes, and a very dirty piece of sackcloth fastened

round his loins; besides this he appeared to be suffering great

distress of mind, and presented a most wretched and woeful

appearance. Lander asked him the cause of his grief, and why he had

covered himself with ashes in such a manner, when he gave the

following relation of the cause of all his distress. It appeared that

he had possessed six wives, one of whom was gifted with a larger

share of personal charms than the rest, the consequence of which was,

that she received more attention from him and was loved more than any

of the others. This partiality naturally excited the jealousy of the

other ladies, and mortified by his neglect of them, they were

determined on revenge, and was resolved to get rid of their favoured

rival by mixing poison with her food. They had just succeeded in

effecting their purpose, which had caused the poor fellow much

distress, and he had not recovered the effects of his loss on the

morning on which he came onboard the Portia. His tale was simple and

unvarnished, and while he was relating it to Lander, the tears were

trickling down his face. Lander never before saw a black man feel so

much for the loss of a wife as he did. This remarkable custom of

mourning in sackcloth and ashes, appears to be peculiar to these

people, and it was ascertained that they do not cease to cover their

bodies with them as long as their sorrow lasts. They do the same on

the death of a relation, and it is the only instance of the kind that

Lander met with in the part of the country through which he had

travelled.

Great uproar and confusion prevailed the whole of this day

throughout the town occasioned by an adventure of the doctor with the

duke's most favourite wife, which is likely to end tragically to the

parties concerned. This person, who is the doctor of the town, it

appears was the bosom friend of the duke, in whom the latter had the

greatest confidence, and allowed him to visit his wives

_professionally_ as often as he thought proper. The gentleman's visit

had lately become so frequent as to excite suspicion and a look out

was accordingly kept on all his movements. The poor doctor was soon

caught in the snare; the motive of his visit was found to be of an

illegal nature, and the enraged duke has ordered both to be bound

hand and foot and thrown into the river on the following day.

Lander found seven French vessels lying in the river, one Spanish,

and two English. One of the latter, named the Caledonia, a ship of

five hundred tons burden, was the property of Sir John Tobin, of

Liverpool, which, with the other, the brig Elizabeth were taking in a

cargo of palm oil.

The river Calebar is very serpentine, and there is scarcely any other

tree but the mangrove to be seen on its banks. The right bank is

intersected by numerous creeks, well known to the natives, who

frequent them in their canoes; they communicate with all the rivers

that fall into the Gulf of Guinea, between this river and that on

which Benin is situated. The natives go as far as Benin in their

canoes, but there is no communication by water with the Camaroons

river, which seems to be totally distinct from the Calebar. The

canoes of the natives are the same sort as those of the Eboe people.

The river is full of crocodiles which are generally about twelve or

fourteen feet long, and are very daring in their search of prey. A

short time previous to their arrival two deaths had been occasioned

by them. Sir John Tobin has a large store close to the river side, in

which palm oil is kept for shipment on board the Liverpool vessels,

and one evening an unfortunate native boy, tired with his day's work,

fell asleep on the shore. In the course of the night an alligator

attacked him, and was awakened by finding himself in the jaws of the

monster; his struggles and cries were all in vain; the powerful

creature lacerated him in a dreadful manner, and tore off one of his

legs, with which he retreated into the water, and the remains of the

unfortunate boy were found the next morning shockingly disfigured and

weltering in blood, the death of the other was occasioned by his

losing an arm in a similar manner.

Provisions are generally dear at Duke Town. Bullocks fetch twenty

dollars each, and those not of a very good quality. Goats and sheep

are valued at three dollars, ducks at half a dollar each, and fowls

at half a dollar a pair. Yams are cultivated by the natives very

successfully, and are considered the best flavoured and finest of the

country. There are no cleared portions of ground on the banks of the

river, and their cultivation of the yam and other vegetables is at a

distance in the woods.

Since Lander's first return to Fernando Po from the Calebar river, he

accompanied Mr. Becroft twice to Duke Town in the Portia. In this

interval the Carnarvon, an English vessel had arrived with government

stores from England for the establishment, and as she was going to

Rio Janeiro for a cargo to take back, and there seemed to be no

prospect at present of their getting away from Fernando Po by any

other means, the Landers requested Mr. Becroft to conclude an

agreement for their passage to that place, from whence they hoped to

be more successful in finding their way to England. About a week

previously, the brig Thomas, in which they came from the river Nun,

touched at the island on her way home from the Camaroons, her

commander, Lake, supposing that they would take a passage with him.

They had now been upon the island seven weeks, and they would have

preferred staying seven more, rather than put themselves into his

power again. They had experienced quite enough of his care and

kindness, and therefore declined his offer of taking them. After

waiting three days at the island, he sailed about six o'clock in the

afternoon, and had not got more than a mile from the anchorage, when

a large vessel with long, raking masts, suddenly appeared from behind

a part of the island, and was seen in pursuit of him. They observed

the vessel to fire several guns at him, which at length made him take

in all sail and wait. No doubt was entertained that this vessel was a

pirate, and their suspicions were confirmed the next day by seeing

the two vessels lying becalmed close to each other. There were no

signs of them on the following day, and they saw nothing more of the

Thomas. Nor, indeed, was this vessel ever heard of again, in fact,

the Landers considered it a most providential escape, that they did

not take their passage in her. No doubt rested on the minds of the

people of the settlement that the stranger vessel was a pirate, and

that when his people had murdered the crew of the Thomas, with their

captain, or had compelled them to walk the plank, as they usually do,

that they sunk her after taking everything out of her which they

wanted. "Walking the plank," is literally walking into the sea. A

plank is placed across the side of the ship, so that one end projects

some distance over it while the other remains inside. The person

condemned by these ruffians to this mode of death, which is generally

chosen to avoid one of a more dreadful nature, is placed on the inner

end of the plank, and compelled to walk along it till he reaches the

outer end, which immediately yields to his weight, and he falls into

the sea, never to rise again. To make shorter work of it, he is

sometimes loaded with a large shot, which quickly carries him down.

These fellows have another method of disposing of any unfortunate

vessel that may fall into their hands; after having got rid of the

captain and crew as above, they fill her with slaves, and send her

across the Atlantic, should the vessel be met with by any ship of

war, she escapes examination, as her appearance when in the hands of

her own commander was known, and therefore no suspicion is excited.

Everything being prepared for their departure they embarked on board

the Carnarvon,--Garth, commander, for Rio Janeiro. The Landers speak

in terms of high commendation of the conduct observed towards them,

during their stay at Fernando, by Mr. Becroft, Mr. Crichton, and Mr.

Beatty. Everything was supplied them which the place could afford,

and it was always a source of gratification to them to reflect on the

time that they passed in their society.

Having taken leave of their friends, they embarked and bade adieu to

the island of Fernando Po. Mr. Stockwell, the officer of marines,

accompanied them on board, having taken his passage like themselves

to return to England. Their crew consisted of seven European seamen,

two free negroes and one Krooman, besides the commander of the vessel

and two mates. So great, however, was the mortality amongst them,

that before a week had elapsed, the two Landers with the three black

men were all that were left to work the vessel, and one of them only

knew how to steer. Richard Lander was obliged to take the helm until

twelve at night, and every morning after four, having only a few

minutes allowed him to take a hasty meal, and in addition to their

troubles, the vessel was so completely over-run with rats, that it

was quite impossible to stay below with any comfort, and as for

sleeping there, it was wholly out of the question.

On the evening of the 14th March, the Krooman fell into the sea. This

poor fellow, whose name was Yellow Will, called loudly to them for

help, and although the vessel was not sailing at a great rate, he

missed every thing that was thrown overboard to save him. To have

altered the ship's course would have endangered the masts and sails,

and their small boat was so leaky that it would not swim. They had

therefore no alternative, but were obliged to abandon him to his fate

with the most painful feelings, and they heard his cries nearly an

hour afterwards. [Footnote] There is nothing more distressing than an

accident of this nature. To see an unfortunate man grasping in vain

at any thing which is thrown to him, as the ship passes by him, to

see him struggling against his fate as he rises on the distant wave,

which frequently conceals him from view, and to be unable to render

him the least assistance, whilst his cries die away in the breeze,

raise sensations which it is impossible to describe. This man in the

condition in which they then were, particularly, was a great loss to

them, and was the best amongst the black people.

[Footnote: We have given this as it is stated in Lander's Narrative,

but there is something highly improbable in the circumstance of the

cries of a man, who could not swim, being heard for an hour after his

immersion in the sea, and yet that during that time no effectual

means could be devised for his deliverance.]

On the morning of the 15th, the weather was very hazy, which

prevented them seeing the land, although they knew it to be at no

great distance from them. They were becalmed during the whole of the

day, but found by the decrease of the depth, that they were drifting

close on towards the shore. At five in the afternoon, the ship was

about a quarter of a mile from the land, discovered by three large

hills of a sugar loaf appearance being close to them. Finding by

pieces of cork and other things that they threw into the water, that

they were drifting fast on the breakers, which they could distinctly

hear, they made an attempt to get the long boat out to save

themselves, as they expected the ship would be very soon wrecked, but

they found that they could not muster sufficient strength to lift her

over the side. At this critical moment, a breeze of wind from off the

land saved them from destruction, and enabled them to get the vessel

under command.

On the 16th March they arrived at Rio Janeiro, and on the following

day paid their respects to Admiral Baker, the commander in chief on

the South American station, and made known to him their situation and

anxiety to return to England. The admiral received them in that kind

and hospitable manner, which is the peculiar characteristic of a

British seaman. He invited them to his table with his officers, and

ordered them a passage in the William Harris, a government transport,

which was to sail for England in a day or two.

Accordingly on the 20th they sailed for England, and on the 9th June

arrived at Portsmouth, after a tedious voyage, and gladly landed with

hearts full of gratitude for all their deliverance.

One of the first steps which government adopted on the arrival of

Richard Lander, was to issue an order to the authorities at Cape

Coast Castle, to pay to King Boy the whole of his demand for the

ransom of the Landers, and thereby re-establishing that faith and

good opinion with the natives of the country, touching the honour and

integrity of the English character.

This journey by individuals who make no pretensions to science, has

not afforded materials for the illustration of any of its branches,

but previously to the loss of the instruments, the range of the

thermometer is recorded. At Badagry, on the coast, where the heat was

most oppressive, it was between 86° and 94°, oftener stationary near

the latter than the former point. At Jenna it fell suddenly one day

from 94° to 78°, and remained stationary for some hours. At Assinara

at noon, on the 23rd April it attained the height of 99°. Near

Katunga it fell upon one occasion to 71° in the shade, the air being

then cooler than they had felt it since landing. At Kiama the

extremes were 75° and 94°, the mean 84°. At Youri, the range was the

same. On their voyage from Youri to Boussa, on the 2nd August, it

varied from 75° to 92°. At Boussa it varied from 76° to 93°, but most

commonly between 80° and 90°. At Patashie, generally between 74° and

89°, once 93°. Lever 77° to 93°. Bajiebo 70° to 95°. On the passage

down the river below that place, on the 5th October, 78° to 94°.

Belee 79° to 94°. Such has been the issue of this important voyage,

by which the grand problem that perplexed Europe during so many ages,

and on which, for a period of nearly forty years, so many efforts and

sacrifices had been expended in vain, was completely solved. British

enterprise completed, as it had begun this great discovery. Park in

his first journey reached the banks of the Niger, and saw it rolling

its waters towards the interior of the continent. In the second he

embarked at Bammakoo, and by sailing downwards to Boussa, proved its

continuous progress for upwards of a thousand miles. The present

voyage has exhibited it following a farther course, which with its

windings must amount to about eight hundred miles, and finally

emptying itself into the Atlantic. This celebrated stream is now

divested of that mysterious character, which surrounded it with a

species of supernatural interest. Rising in a chain of high

mountains, flowing through extensive plains, receiving large

tributaries, and terminating in the ocean, it exhibits exactly the

ordinary phenomena of a great river. But by this discovery we see

opened to our view a train of most important consequences. The Niger

affords a channel of communication with the most fertile, most

industrious, and most improved regions of interior Africa. Its

navigation is very easy and safe, unless at intervals between Boussa

and Youri, and between Patashie and Lever, and even there it becomes

practicable during the _malca_ or flood, produced by the periodical

rains. British vessels may, therefore, by this stream and its

tributaries ascend to Rabba, Boussa, Youri, Soccatoo, Timbuctoo,

Sego, and probably to other cities as great, but yet unknown. They

may navigate the yet unexplored Tchadda, a river, which at its

junction, is nearly as large as the Niger itself, and no doubt waters

extensive and fertile regions. It was even stated to the Landers by

different individuals, that by this medium, vessels might reach the

Lake Tchadda, and thereby communicate with the kingdom of Bornou. But

this statement appears erroneous, for though the Tchadda be evidently

the same with the Shary, which runs by Adomowa and Durrora, yet

flowing into the Niger, it must be a quite different stream from the

Shary, which flows _into_ the Tchad, and in a country so mountainous,

there is little likelihood of any connecting branches. The decided

superiority of the interior of Africa to the coast, renders this

event highly important. Steam, so peculiarly adapted to river

navigation, affords an instrument by which the various obstacles may

be overcome, and vessels may be enabled to penetrate into the very

heart of the African continent.

On the return of the Landers, the question was mooted by the

Geographical Society of London, whether the Quorra or _Niger_, as

discovered by Lander, was the same river as the _Kigir_ of the

ancients. Upon the whole subject it would have been sufficient to

refer to D'Anville and Rennell, who favour the affirmative of the

question, and on the opposite side to M. Wakkenaer, who of all later

writers has examined it with the greatest diligence, had not recent

discoveries furnished us with better grounds for forming a conclusive

opinion, than even the latest of these authors possessed.

Maritime surveys have now completed a correct outline of Northern

Africa. Major Laing, by ascertaining the source of the Quorra to be

not more than sixteen hundred feet above the sea, proved that it

could not flow to the Nile. Denham and Clapperton demonstrated that

it did not discharge itself into the Lake of Bornou, and at length

its real termination in a delta, at the head of the great gulf of the

western coast of Africa, has rewarded the enlightened perseverance of

the British government, and the courage and enterprise of its

servants. The value to science of this discovery, and the great merit

of those, whose successive exertions have prepared and completed it,

is the more striking, when we consider that the hydrography of an

unknown country is the most important step to a correct knowledge of

its geography, and that in barbarous Africa, nothing short of the

ocular inquiries of educated men, is sufficient to procure the

requisite facts, and yet it is not a little extraordinary, that the

termination of the Quorra or Niger has been discovered by two men,

who, in point of scientific knowledge, education, or literary

acquirements, stand the lowest in the scale of the African

travellers. It is, however, curious to observe how even the best

collectors of oral information in that country, have failed in

arriving at the truth, as to the origin, cause, and termination of

the rivers. Edrisi, Abulfida, Leo Africanus,[Footnote] Delile, and

Bruce, all come to the determination that the Quorra flowed from east

to west. Burckhardt, whose oral inquiries on Bornou, have proved

generally correct, concluded that the Shary flowed from N.E. to S.W.,

and Lyon, though particularly successful in his information on the

countries not visited by him, was induced to confound the Shary of

Bornou with the Tchadda or Yen, and like Sultan Bello, to carry the

Quorra, after passing Youri and Funda, into the Lake Tchadda, and

thence into Egypt. The most intelligent natives are confused, when

questioned on the subject of rivers, while the majority, unable to

understand the object or utility of such enquiries, can neither

inform the traveller whether two streams are different rivers or part

of the same; where any river rises, or whither it flows, and appear

often to believe that all the lakes and streams of Africa, are parts

of one and the same water. It is not surprising, therefore, that

ancients as well as moderns have obtained the knowledge of a large

river flowing to the east, should have supposed that it was a branch

of the Nile of Egypt, or that when the existence of a great lake, in

the direction of the known portion of its stream, became known, the

opinion should have followed, that the river terminated in that lake,

or that it was discharged through the lake into the Nile. Such,

consequently have been the prevalent notions in all ages, even

amongst the most intelligent foreigners, as well as the higher class

of natives, from Herodotus, Etearchus, and Juba, to Ibn, Batuta, and

Bello of Soccatoo.

[Footnote: It is supposed by W. Martin Leake, Esq. Vice President of

the Geographical Society, that Leo Africanus actually reached

Timbuctoo. The narrative of Adams places the matter at rest, that Leo

never did reach that famous city. Mr. Leake says, that Leo was very

young at the time, and, therefore that his memory probably failed

him, when he came to describe the city, which was many years after

his return.]

Considering these circumstances, it will hardly be contended that the

late discovery of the Landers, has made any alteration in the nature

of the question, as to the identity of the Quorra and Nigir; the

sudden bend of the river to the southward, through a country, which

has been equally unknown to the ancients and moderns, having always

left the best informed of them in ignorance of any part of the river,

except that of which the course was northerly or easterly. If then,

there be sufficient reason for the belief, that these latter portions

were known to the, ancients, we have only to suppose them to have had

some such imperfect knowledge of the interior of North Africa, as we

ourselves had attained previously to the expedition of Denham and

Clapperton, to justify the application of the name Nigir to the whole

course of the river. Although we find Ptolemy to be misinformed on

several points concerning central Africa, yet there still remains

enough in his Data, on Interior Libya and Northern Ethiopia, to show

a real geographical approximation, very distant indeed from the

accuracy at which science is always aiming, but quite sufficient to

resolve the question as to the identity of the Nigir, in which an

approximation is all that can be expected or required. Having been

totally ignorant of the countries through which that river flows in a

southerly direction, Ptolemy naturally mistook it for a river of the

interior; he knew the middle Ethiopia to be a country watered by

lakes, formed by streams rising in mountains to the southward; he was

superior to the vulgar error of supposing that all the waters to the

westward of the Nile flowed into that river, and he knew consequently

that the rivers and lakes in the middle region, had no communication

with the sea. It is but lately that we ourselves have arrived at a

certainty on this important fact. We now know enough of the level of

the Lake Tchad, to be assured that no water from that recipient can

possibly reach the Nile. This wonderful river, of which the lowest

branch is 1200 geographical miles from the Mediterranean, (measuring

the distance along its course, in broken lines of 100 G.M. direct,)

has no tributary from the westward below the Bahr Adda of Browne,

which is more than 1600 miles from the sea, similarly measured. It is

scarcely possible, therefore, that the latter point can be less,

taking the cataracts into consideration than 1500 feet above the sea,

whereas the following considerations lead to the belief that the

Tchadda is not more than 500 feet in height.

We learn from the information of Clapperton, confirmed and amplified

by that of Lander, that there exists a ridge, which about Kano and

Kashna, extends forth the Yeu to the Lake Tchadda on one side, and on

the other the river of Soccatoo, which joins the Quorra at a distance

from the sea of about 500 miles, measured in the manner above

mentioned. A similar process of measurement gives a length of 1700

miles to the whole course of the Quorra, the sources of which,

according to Major Laing, are about 1600 feet above the sea; the

stream, therefore, has an average fall of something less than a foot

in a mile in lines of 100 geographical miles. This would give to the

confluence of the river of Soccatoo with the Quorra, a height of less

than 500 feet above the sea, but as that confluence occurs above the

most rapid part of the main stream, 500 feet seem to be very nearly

the height.

As a knowledge of the origin and course of rivers, conducts in every

country to that of the relative altitude and directions of its

highlands, the late discoveries on the waters of Africa have thrown

great light on its orography. The sources of the largest, or rather

longest of its rivers, namely, the white or true Nile, now appears to

be in a point nearly equidistant from the Indian and Atlantic Oceans

in one direction, and from the Mediterranean and the Cape of Good

Hope on the other. These central summits, it is fair to suppose, are

at least as high as the snowy peak Samen, in Abyssinia, which is the

culminating point towards the sources of the minor branch or Blue

Nile, and that they are covered, therefore, with perpetual snow. From

hence flow the White Nile, the Djyr, the Bahr Culla, the Congo, and

several rivers of the coast of Zanguebar.

As a part of these great African Alps was described to Denham as

lying beyond the mountain of Mendefy, the latter would seem to be an

advanced northerly summit of them. The range is probably united to

the eastward with the mountains of Abyssinia, and to the westward,

terminates abruptly in some lofty peaks on the eastern side of the

delta of the Quorra, but not till after it has sent forth a lower

prolongation, which crosses the course of the Quorra nearly at right

angles, and terminates at the end of 1500 miles, at the sources of

the Quorra, Gambia, and Senegal. A minor counterfort advances from

the central range to the northwestward, commencing about the Peak of

Mendefy, and vanishing at the end of about 900 miles in the desert of

the Tuaricks. It gives rise to the two Sharys, which flow in opposite

directions to the Quorra and the Lake Tchadda, and further north to

the streams which flow to the same two recipients from about Kano and

Kashna.

Though the knowledge of interior Africa now possessed by the

civilized world, is the progressive acquisition of many enterprising

men, to all of whom we are profoundly indebted, it cannot be denied

that the last great discovery has done more than any other to place

the great outline of African geography on a basis of certainty. When

to this is added the consideration that it opens a maritime

communication into the centre of the continent, it may be described

as the greatest geographical discovery that has been made since that

of New Holland. Thrice during the last thirty years, it has been on

the eve of accomplishment; first when Horneman had arrived from

Fezzan and Nyfflé, secondly when Park had navigated the Quorra as far

as Boussa, and lastly when Tuckey, supplied with all possible means

For prosecuting researches by water, was unfortunately expedited to

The Congo, instead of being sent to explore the mouths of the Niger.