Every thing was now ready for their departure from Katunga, but some
considerable time elapsed before the carriers were ready to take up
their loads, and much murmuring was occasioned by their size and
weight. They then left the city, and returned to Eetcho by the way
they had come. One of their horses became so weak on the road, that
he was unable to carry his rider, old Pascoe, so that they were
obliged to drive him along before them, which was a tiresome and
unpleasant occupation. The journey from Katunga was long, and owing
to the ruggedness of the path, was very fatiguing, and as they were
much in advance of the remainder of the party, they halted at
Eetcholee, until they joined them. Here they let their horses graze,
partook of some beer and other refreshment, and sat down on the turf
to enjoy themselves, for the day had been sultry, and the heat
oppressive, and their whole party were nearly exhausted.
On Saturday May 22nd, an unexpected obstacle presented itself to the
prosecution of their journey, as the Katunga carriers all complained
of pains in their limbs, and on reaching Leoguadda, which lies midway
between Eetcho and Atoopa, they placed their burdens on the ground,
and to a man, stoutly refused to take them any further until the
following day. Their own men also, who were still more heavily laden
than the Katunga men, had suffered so much from the long and irksome
journey of yesterday, particularly Jowdie, who was the strongest and
most athletic of them all, that they greatly feared that all of them
would have been taken seriously ill on the road. They, therefore,
lightened their burdens, and distributed a portion of what they had
taken out of them into the boxes, &c., of their already overladen
Katunga associates, without, however, permitting the latter to know
any thing of the circumstance. Among the carriers was a very little
man, called Gazherie, (small man,) on account of his diminutive
stature; he was notwithstanding very muscular, and possessed uncommon
strength, activity, and vigour of body, and bore a package containing
their tent, &c., which though very heavy, was yet by far the lightest
load of the whole. Conceiving that corporeal strength, rather than
bulk or height, should in this case be taken into the account, a bag
of shot weighing 28lbs, was extracted from Jowdie's burden, and
clandestinely added to his. The little man trudged along merrily,
without dreaming of the fraud that had been practised on him, till
they arrived within a short distance of Leoguadda, when imagining
that one end of the tent felt much heavier than the other, he was
induced to take it from his head, and presently discovered the
cheat, for the bag having been thrust simply inside the covering, it
could be seen without unlacing the package. He was much enraged at
being thus deceived, and called his companions around him to witness
the fact, and said he was resolved to proceed no further than
Leoguadda. He then succeeded in persuading them to follow his
example, and thus a kind of combination was instantly formed against
the travellers. As was usual with them on entering a village, they
rested a little while under a shady tree in Leoguadda, and here they
were presently surrounded by the murmuring carriers, with the little
man at their head. They were furious at first, and gave them to
understand that they would go no further, and were determined, let
the consequence be what it might, to remain in the town all night.
Leoguadda contained no accommodations whatever for them, and a storm
seemed now to be gathering over their heads. Atoopa was the town in
which the king of Katunga had advised them to spend the night; they
therefore resolved to go on to that town, and strenuously endeavoured
by gentle means to bring over the carriers to their views, but, these
failing, they resorted to their own mode of argument, namely, fierce
looks, violent action, vociferous bawling, and expressive gesture,
which intimidated so much, that they snatched up their burdens,
without saying a word, and ran away with alacrity and good humour.
These carriers Were to accompany them as far as the frontier town of
the kingdom.
It was market day at Atoopa, and at a distance of some miles from the
town, the hum of human voices could be distinctly heard. Just after
their arrival, a man of note, who was a public singer and dancer,
stood before the door of their hut to entertain them with a specimen
of his abilities, and he entered with so much warmth and agility into
the spirit of his profession, that his whimsical performance really
afforded them much diversion. The musician had two assistant drummers
in his train, whose instruments were far from being unmusical, and
likewise several other men, whose part was to keep time by clapping
with their hands. The dancing was excellent of its kind, and
resembled more the European style, than any they had before seen in
the country. The singing was equally good, the voices of the men
being clear and agreeable; they sang the responses, and likewise
accompanied the chanting of their master with their voices; in fact,
they performed their part of the entertainment to admiration. A
_Fatakie_, a smaller number than a coffle of merchants, left Atoopa
on the preceding day for Kiama, and it was most likely that they
would overtake them at the next town.
On Sunday morning, though their horses were in a very weak condition,
and all looked extremely sorrowful, yet they quitted Atoopa at an
early hour and in good spirits, and journeying in a westerly
direction, in two hours time they entered a lively little walled
town, called Rumbum. Here they dismounted, and took a slight
refreshment of parched corn and water, on the trunk of a fallen tree.
Rumbum is a great thoroughfare for fatakies of merchants, trading
from Houssa, Borgoo, and other countries to Gonga; and consequently a
vast quantity of land is cultivated in its vicinity with corn and
yams, to supply them with provisions.
On quitting this town, their course altered to N.W., and continued so
till their arrival at the large and important town of Keeshee, which
is on the frontier of the kingdom, and distant from Atoopa only about
twelve miles. It is surrounded by a double strong clay wall, and is
an excellent situation as a place of security from the attacks of the
enemy. Before entering this place, and at the distance of a mile from
it, they passed through a clean, extensive, and highly-flourishing
Fellata village, called Acba, which, like most other places in
Yarriba inhabited by Fellatas, was well stocked with sheep and
cattle.
The governor of Keeshee having died only ten days previously to their
arrival, they were well received by his successor, who was an elderly
and respectable-looking man. Shortly after their arrival, he sent
them a present of a fine young bullock, a quantity of yams, and more
than a gallon of excellent strong beer. In the centre of the town is
a high stony hill, almost covered with trees of stinted growth, to
which, in case of an invasion by the enemy, the inhabitants fly for
refuge. As soon as they have reached its summit, it is borne, they
say, by a supernatural power above the clouds, where it remains till
the danger is over. Some years have elapsed since this miracle last
took place, yet the story is told with a serious belief of its truth,
and with the most amusing gravity. About a quarter of a mile to the
north-east of this marvellous hill, rises another, which very much
resembles it in shape and appearance, but the latter is rather larger
and higher, and overlooks the country for many miles round.
A number of emigrants from different countries reside in this place;
there are not a few from Borgoo, Nouffie, Houssa and Bornoo, and two
or three Tuaricks from the borders of the Great Desert. To the west
of the town is a picturesque hill of a gentle ascent, on which are
several small hamlets; these hamlets have a rural and eminently
beautiful appearance. In no town through which they had hitherto
travelled, had they seen so many fine tall men, and good-looking
women, as at this place; yet several individuals of both sexes were
to be met with, who had lost the sight of one eye, and others who had
unseemly wens on their throats, as large as cocoa nuts. They saw a
cripple to-day for the first time, and a female dwarf, whose height
scarcely exceeded thirty inches, and whose appearance bespoke her to
be between thirty and forty years of age. Her head was
disproportionately large to the size of her body; her features, like
her voice, were harsh, masculine, and unpleasant in the extreme. It
would have been ridiculous to be afraid of such a diminutive thing,
but there was an expression in her countenance so peculiarly
repulsive, unwomanly, and hideous, that on approaching their hut,
they felt a very unusual and disagreeable sensation steal over them.
The descriptions of an elf or a black dwarf in the Arabian Nights
Entertainments, or modern romances, would serve well to portray the
form and lineaments of this singular little being.
It was market day, and Richard Lander took a walk in the evening to
the place where the market was held, but the crowd that gathered
round him was so great, as to compel him to return home much sooner,
than he had intended. If he happened to stand still even for a
moment, the people pressed by thousands to get close to him, and if
he attempted to go on, they tumbled over one another to get out of
his way, overturning standings and calabashes, throwing down their
owners, and scattering their property about in all directions. The
blacksmiths in particular, welcomed him by clashing their iron tools
against each other, and the drummers rejoiced by thumping violently
upon one end of their instruments. A few women and children ran from
him in a fright, but the majority less timid, approached as near as
they could, to catch a glimpse of the first white man they had ever
seen. His appearance seemed to interest them amazingly, for they
tittered and wished him well, and turned about to titter again. On
returning, the crowd became more dense than ever, and drove all
before them like a torrent, dogs, goats, sheep, and poultry were
borne along against their will, which terrified them so much, that
nothing could be heard but noises of the most lamentable description;
children screamed, dogs yelled, sheep and goats bleated most
piteously, and fowls cackled, and fluttered from among the crowd.
Never was such a hubbub made before in the interior of Africa, by the
appearance of a white man, and happy indeed was that white man to
shelter himself from all this uproar in his own yard, whither the
multitude dared not follow him.
The widows of the deceased chief of Keeshee, daily set apart a
portion of the twenty-four hours to cry for their bereavement, and
pray to their gods. On this evening, they began in the same sad,
mournful tone, which is commonly heard on similar occasions all over
the country. Richard Lander asked their interpreter, why the women
grieved so bitterly, he answered quickly, "What matter! they laugh
directly." So it was supposed, that they cried from habit, rather
than from feeling, and that they can shed tears and be merry in the
same breath, whenever they please. About seven o'clock this evening,
they heard a public crier, proclaiming with a loud voice, that should
any one be discovered straggling about the streets after that hour,
he would be seized and put to death. Many houses in the town had
lately been set on fire by incendiaries, and this most likely gave
rise to the above precautionary measure.
They were compelled to remain the whole of the following day, on
account of the inability of the governor to procure them carriers for
their luggage, The number of people who visited them to-day was so
great, and their company so irksome, that they were perplexed for
some time how to get rid of them without offence. One party in
particular was so unpleasant, and they so seriously incommoded them,
that they had recourse to the unusual expedient of smoking them off,
by kindling a fire at the door of their hut, before which they were
sitting. It succeeded agreeably to their wishes.
A company of women and girls from the Fellata village of Acba,
impelled by a curiosity so natural to their sex, came likewise to see
them in the afternoon, but their society, instead of being
disagreeable, as the company of all their other visitors proved to
be, was hailed by them with pleasure. For these females were so
modest and so retiring, and evinced so much native delicacy in their
whole behaviour, that they excited in the breast of the travellers
the highest respect: their personal attractions were no less winning;
they had fine sparkling jetty eyes, with eyelashes as dark and glossy
as the ravens' plume; their features were agreeable, although their
complexions were tawny; their general form was elegant; their hands
small and delicate, and the peculiar cleanliness of their persons,
and neatness of dress added to these, rendered their society
altogether as desirable as that of their neighbours was disagreeable.
The Fellatas inhabiting Acba were all born and bred in that town,
their ancestors settled in the country at so remote a period, that
although some inquiries were made respecting it, all their questions
were unavailing, and in fact, not even a tradition has been preserved
on the subject. These "children of the soil," lead a harmless,
tranquil, and sober life, which they never suffer passing events to
disturb; they have no ambition to join their more restless and
enterprising countrymen, who have made themselves masters of Alorie
and Raka, nor even to meddle in the private or public concerns of
their near neighbours of Keeshee. Indeed, they have kept themselves
apart and distinct from all; they have retained the language of their
fathers, and the simplicity of their manners, and their existence
glides serenely and happily away, in the enjoyment of domestic
pleasures and social tenderness, which are not always found in
civilized society, and which are unknown among their roving
countrymen. They are on the best possible terms with their neighbours
like the Fellatas at Bohoo and by them are held in great respect.
The governor of Keeshee was a Borgoo man, and boasted of being the
friend of Yarro, chief of Kiama, but as the old man told them many
wonderful stories of the number of towns under his sway, his amazing
great influence, and the entire subjection in which his own people
were kept by his own good government, all of which was listened to
with patience; they were inclined to believe that the pretensions of
the governor were as hollow as they were improbable. As to his
government, he gave them a specimen of it, by bawling to a group of
children that had followed their steps into the yard, ordering them
to go about their business. But every one in this country displayed
the same kind of ridiculous vanity, and in the majority of towns
which they visited, it was the first great care of their chiefs, to
impress on their minds an idea of their vast importance, which in
many instances was contradicted by their ragged tobes and squalid
appearance. Yet, if their own accounts were to be credited, their
affluence and power were unbounded. All truth is sacrificed to this
feeling of vanity and vain glory; and considering that in most cases
they hold truth in great reverence, they render themselves truly
ridiculous by their absurd practice of boasting; every circumstance
around them tending to contradict it. In the case of the Landers,
however, these toasters had to deal with strangers, and with white
men, and perhaps it may be considered as natural, amongst simple
barbarians, to court admiration and applause, even if no other means
were employed than falsehood and exaggeration. After a deal of
talking, tending to no particular subject, from which any useful
information could be obtained, the governor of Keeshee begged the
favour of a little rum and medicine to heal his foot, which was
inclined to swell and give him pain; and another request which he
made was, that they would repair a gun, which had been deprived of
its stock by fire. He then sung them a doleful ditty, not in praise
of female beauty, as is the practice with the songsters of England,
but it was in praise of elephants and their teeth, in which he was
assisted by his cane bearer, and afterwards took his leave. They
received little presents of goora nuts, salt, honey, mi-cadamia,
butter, &c., from several inhabitants of the place.
Some mallams and others, who wished to accompany the Landers to
Kiama, whither they were going for the purposes of trade, persuaded
the easy-minded governor on the preceding night, to defer getting
their carriers until the following day, because, forsooth, they were
not themselves wholly prepared to travel on that day. They were,
therefore, obliged to wait the further pleasure of these influential
merchants. Thus balked in their expectations, after their luggage had
all been packed up for starting, Richard Lander attempted to amuse
himself early in the morning, by scrambling to the top of the high
and steep hill, which stood in the middle of the town. In his
progress, he disturbed a tiger-cat from his retreat amongst the
rocks, but he was rewarded for his labour by an extensive and
agreeable prospect from the summit of the mountain, which he found to
consist of large blocks of white marble. The town with its double
wall, perforated with holes for the bowmen to shoot through, lay at
his feet, and several little rural villages studded the country on
every side. The governor of Keshee was so old and infirm, that it was
evident he had not many years to live. A lotion was given him for his
swollen foot, which greatly elated a few of his attendants, and their
animated looks and gestures bespoke hearts overflowing with
gratitude, so much so indeed, that it was remarked as a circumstance
of very rare occurrence. The cause of these grateful feelings was,
however, soon explained to them, for early in the morning, they were
visited by a young man, who had particularly distinguished himself in
his expressions of gratitude, but who now put on such a rueful
countenance, and spoke in a tone so low and melancholy, that his
whole appearance was completely altered, insomuch that it was
supposed some great calamity had befallen him. The cause of it was
soon explained, by his informing them that he would be doomed to die,
with two companions, as soon as their governor's dissolution should
take place; and as the old man had already one foot in the grave, the
sadness of the poor fellow was not to be wondered at. When this same
individual and his associates observed Richard Lander giving the
lotion to their master on the preceding day, they imagined it would
prolong his existence, and consequently lengthen their own, and hence
arose that burst of feeling which had attracted their attention. The
people here imagined that the Landers could do anything, but more
especially that they were acquainted with, and could cure all the
complaints and disorders to which man is liable.
During the day, the governor solicited from Richard Lander a charm to
protect his house from fire, and to enable him to amass riches, while
one of his elderly wives made a doleful complaint of having been
likely to become a mother for the last thirty years, and begged
piteously for medicine to promote and assist her accouchement. It was
easy enough to satisfy the old man; but it was conceived that the
hypochondriacal complaint of his wife, was too dangerous to be
meddled with by unprofessional hands. Poor woman! she was much to be
pitied, for the odd delusion under which she had been labouring for
some time, had given her considerable uneasiness, so that life itself
became a burden to her. All that Richard Lander, her medical adviser,
could do for her, was to soothe her mind, by telling her that her
distemper was very common, and not at all dangerous; and he promised
her that on their return to Keeshee, should nothing transpire in her
favour in the mean time, he would endeavour to remove the cause of
her complaint. This comforted the aged matron exceedingly, and in the
fulness of her heart, she burst into tears of joy, dropped on her
knees to express her acknowledgments, and pressed them to accept a
couple of goora nuts.
Their engaging female friends, the Fellatas, paid them a second visit
this morning, with bowls of milk and foorah; and in the evening, a
few of their male companions also came, and remained with them a
considerable time. Both sexes displayed the same timid reserve in
their presence, and deported themselves in the same respectful manner
as they did on the preceding day. It appeared that the Fellatas
inhabiting Acba, though very numerous, are but one family, for the
Landers were informed, that their ancestor separated himself from
his friends, relatives, and acquaintances, and exiling himself for
ever from his native country, he travelled hither with his wives and
children, his flocks and herds. The sons and daughters of his
descendants intermarry only among their own kindred, and they are
betrothed to each other in infancy and childhood. The little that
they saw of the Fellatas in Yarriba, soon convinced them that in all
things they were much, very much superior to the loveless and
unsocial proprietors of the soil. Their countenances bespoke more
intelligence, and their manners displayed less roughness and
barbarism. The domestic virtues of the Fellatas are also more
affectionate and endearing, and their family regulations more chaste
and binding.
On Wednesday the 26th May, they rose before sunset, and having little
to do in the way of preparation for setting out, they took a hasty
breakfast, and afterwards went to pay their respects to the governor,
and thank him for his hospitality and kindness to them. The parting
with the interesting female natives, shall be related in Lander's own
words. "On returning to our lodgings, we had the pleasure of
receiving the morning salutation of our fair friends, the Fellatas,
on bended knee. Resolved to have another and a last chat with the
white strangers, these females had come for the purpose of offering
us two calabashes of new milk. This, and former little acts of
kindness, which we have received from these dark-eyed maidens, have
effectually won our regard, because we know they were
disinterestedly given, and the few minutes which we have had the
happiness of spending in their company, and that of their countrymen,
have redeemed many hours of listlessness and melancholy, which
absence from our native country, and thoughts of home and friends but
too often excite in our breasts. It was not, therefore, without a
feeling of sorrow that we bade them adieu. For my own part, when they
blessed me in the name of Allah and their prophet, and implored
blessings on my head, and when I gazed upon the faces of the
simple-hearted and innocent females, who had so piously and fervently
invoked the benediction, with the consciousness of beholding them no
more in this life, my heart was touched with sorrow, for of all
reflections, this is certainly the most melancholy and dispiriting."
"Ye, who have known what 'tis to dote upon
A few dear objects, will in sadness feel
Such partings break the heart they fondly hoped to heal."
There was far less feeling and tenderness, though more words and much
greater noise in taking their farewell of the two old messengers that
had accompanied them from Badagry, and who, with their Jenna guides,
were to return home on the following day. They had behaved throughout
the whole of the journey to the entire satisfaction of the Landers,
and because they had been their companions on a long and painful
journey, and because their faces had become familiarized to them,
that they left them behind with sincere regret.
Although they left Keeshee between six and seven in the morning, they
were obliged to seat themselves on a green turf in the outskirts of
the town, and wait there till a quarter after nine before the
carriers with the luggage made their appearance. Here they were
joined by a Borgoo fatakie, and their ears were saluted with the
hoarse, dull sounds of their drum, which was played by a ragged young
Yarribean, long after they were on their journey. A company of
merchants travelling through the country has always a drummer in
their pay, who walks at the head of the party, and performs on his
instrument continually, be the journey ever so long, for the purpose
of animating the slaves to quicken their steps.
Their route lay through a vast and lonely forest, infested by a band
of robbers and in which there is not a single human habitation. John
Lander went unarmed before the fatakie, and travelled alone, whilst
Richard remained behind to defend the carriers, in case of necessity.
He had already ridden some distance in advance of them, when about
twenty very suspicious-looking fellows, armed with lances, bows, and
arrows, suddenly made their appearance from behind the trees, where
they had concealed themselves, and stood in the middle of the path,
before the men with the luggage, who were so terrified that they were
prepared to drop their burdens and run away. His gun being loaded,
Richard Lander levelled it at them, and had nearly discharged it at
their leader, which intimidated them all so much, that they retreated
again into the heart of the forest. When the people of Yarriba
observe any one approaching them on the road, whose appearance
inspires them with apprehension as to the honesty of their
intentions, they fling off their loads without waiting the result of
the meeting, and take to their heels without venturing to look behind
them. The robbers, therefore, when they saw the fatakie, no doubt
expected to obtain an easy booty, not anticipating to find a white
man amongst them, nor thinking that their carriers would have made
a stand.
They journeyed fifteen miles through this dreaded forest, which
occupied them five hours and three quarters, owing to the weakness of
their horses, and want of water, but above all to the oppressive heat
of the weather, from which they all suffered more or less. They then
arrived at the Moussa, which is a rivulet, separating the kingdom of
Yarriba from Borgoo. Having satisfied their thirst and bathed, they
crossed the stream, and entered a little village on the northern
bank, where they halted for the day.
When travelling in the bush, several men in the train of a fatakie
wear a large iron ring on the thumb and middle finger; to the latter
a piece of plate iron is attached, with which they make signals to
each other, and the fatakie, when apart, by clinking the rings. This
method of communication is very significant, and it is understood as
well, and is as promptly answered or obeyed, as the boatswain's
whistle on board a ship. The collision of the rings produces a harsh,
grating noise, loud enough to be heard at a considerable distance.
The mere crossing of a little stream, which a person might almost
have jumped over, introduced them into a country very different from
Yarriba, which was inhabited by a different people, speaking a
different language, professing a different religion, and whose
manners, customs, amusements, and pursuits were altogether different.
The village in which they halted was called Moussa, after the river,
and is distant from Keeshee, in a northerly direction, as nearly as
they could guess, about sixteen miles. The Landers occupied a large
round hut, called by the natives of that country _catamba_, in the
Houssa language _sowley_, and in the Bornou _coozie_. In the centre
of it is the trunk of a large tree, which supports the roof; it has
two apertures for doors, which are opposite each other, and directly
over them, suspended from the wall, are a couple of charms, written
in the Arabic character on bits of paper, which are to preserve the
premises from being destroyed by fire.
It was now eleven o'clock at night; their attendants were reposing on
mats and skins in various parts of the hut. Bows and arrows and
quivers ornamented with cows' tails, together with muskets, pistols,
swords, lances, and other weapons, were either hanging on the wall or
resting against it. The scene was wild and singular, and quite
bordering on, if not really romantic. Outside the hut it was still
more striking: there, though it rained and thundered, the remainder
of the fatakie, consisting of men, women, and children, were sitting
on the ground in groups, or sleeping near several large fires, which
were burning almost close to the hut, whilst others were lying under
the shelter of large spreading trees in its immediate vicinity. The
only apparel which they wear, was drawn over their half-naked
persons, their weapons were at their sides, and their horses were
grazing near them. Most of the people retired to rest without food,
yet they slept soundly, and appeared quite happy and comfortable
after their day's exertion and fatigue. One of the men fainted on the
road from exhaustion, and remained very feverish and unwell.
At day break on the following day, the travellers pursued their
course, and as Lander expresses himself, there wore a sweetness in
the mountain air, and a freshness in the morning, which they
experienced with considerable pleasure, on ascending the hills, which
bordered the northern side of the pretty little Moussa. When wild
beasts tired with their nightly prowling, seek retirement and repose
in the lonely depths of these primeval forests, and when birds
perched in the branches of the trees over their heads, warbled forth
their morning song, it is the time, that makes up for the languid,
wearisome hours in the heat of the day, when nothing could amuse or
interest them. It is in the earlier part of the morning too, or in
the cool of the evening, that nature can be leisurely contemplated
and admired in the simple loveliness of a verdant plain, a
sequestered grotto, or a rippling brook, or in the wilder and more
mysterious features of her beauty in the height of a craggy
precipice, the silence and gloom of vast shady woods, or when those
woods are gracefully bending to the passing gale.
An hour's ride brought them near to the site of a town, which was
formerly peopled only by robbers. It was, however destroyed some
years ago, and its inhabitants either slain or dispersed, by order of
the spirited ruler of Kiama, since which time the road has been less
dreaded by travellers. Their path lay through a rich country covered
with luxuriant grasses and fine trees, but very little underwood
could be seen. It abounded with deer and antelopes, and other wild
animals of a more ferocious nature; such as the lion, the leopard,
the elephant, the wild ass, &c., but the solitary lowing of the
buffalo was the only sound that was distinguished in the forest,
although they had not the pleasure of meeting even with that animal.
At eleven o'clock, they entered a very small, cleanly-looking
village, where they halted for the day. Unfortunately the governor
with most of his people were at work in the fields at some distance,
so that they could not get any thing to eat till rather late in the
evening. It appeared that these poor villagers were forced to supply
the soldiers of their sovereign with provisions, gratis, whenever
business led them so far that way from the capital; and that in order
to avoid the rapacity of these men, they built for themselves another
hamlet in the woods, far out of the way of the path, whither they
carry their goats, &c. and the corn of which they may not be in
immediate want.
On their arrival they were introduced into a small grass hut, which
the smoke had changed into the most glossy black, which could
possibly be seen; the interior of the roof was also ingeniously
decorated with large festoons of cobwebs and dust, which must have
been allowed to accumulate for a number of years. Its fetish was a
dried grasshopper, which was preserved in a little calabash, but upon
the supposition that this was insufficient to protect it from all the
danger to which huts in that country are constantly exposed,
auxiliary charms of blood and feathers are likewise stuck inside of
the wall. At sun-set, not having any thing to eat, Richard Lander
went out with his gun into the woods, and was fortunate enough to
shoot a few doves, and Pascoe, who went in a different direction,
shot a guinea hen, which made them an excellent supper. Hunger had
driven back their Keeshee carriers, who were to have accompanied them
to Kiama, and therefore they were obliged to send a messenger to
Yarro for men to supply their place. Late in the evening, the
governor of the village returned from his labour in the fields, and
presented them with corn and honey.
On the forenoon of Friday the 28th, the musical jingling of little
bells announced the approach of a body of horsemen, who in less than
a minute galloped up to their hut, and saluted them one after another
with a martial air, by brandishing their spears, to their great
discomfiture, within a few feet of their faces. To display their
horsemanship more effectually, they caused their spirited steeds to
prance and rear in their presence, and when they imagined they were
convinced of their abilities, they dismounted to prostrate themselves
before them, and acquainted them of the welfare of their prince. The
carriers who had arrived from Kiama, had preceded them on the road,
and the whole of the men then sat down to partake of a little
refreshment. It was twelve o'clock exactly when they set out on their
journey, and the day being so far advanced, they wished to make all
the haste possible, but the weather was extremely warm, and their
horses were hardly strong enough to carry their riders, so that they
were obliged after all to travel very slowly. At five o'clock in the
afternoon, they reached the ruins of a small town. The path was
through the same forest as they had travelled through on the
preceding day, but this part of it was less thickly wooded. At one
place they remarked two immensely large trees, springing up almost
close together, their mighty trunks and branches were twisted, and
firmly clasped round each other, like giants in the act of embracing,
and presented an appearance highly novel and singular. Ant hills were
numerous on the road; and a few paces from it, they observed, as they
rode along, little cone-shaped mud buildings, erected by the natives
for the purpose of smelting iron ore, which is found in abundance in
different parts of the country.
At sunset they arrived at a village called Benikenny, which means in
the language of the people, (a cunning man;) and they found there
three women waiting their arrival, with corn and milk from the king
of Kiama: this was very acceptable, for they had been without food
for thirteen hours. They rested at Benikenny a little while, and
fully expected to have slept there, for the afternoon had been
excessively warm, and they were all much fatigued. It appears,
however, that their armed escort were not in the same way of thinking
as themselves, and they encouraged them to proceed to another
village, which they said was at no great distance. They, therefore,
quitted Benikenny, yet no village could be seen, and then the escort
confessed that they had deceived them, in order that they might
arrive at Kiama before night. The sun had gone down on their quitting
the halting place, but the moon and stars supplied them with a cooler
and more agreeable light, and they journeyed on through the forest
more slowly than before. In spite of their fatigue, they could not
help admiring the serenity and beauty of the evening, nor be
insensible to the delicious fragrance shed around from trees and
shrubs. The appearance of their warlike and romantic escort, was also
highly amusing. They were clad in the fashion of the east, and sought
their way between the trees on their right and left; but sometimes
they fell in their rear, and then again dashed suddenly by them with
astonishing swiftness, looking as wild as the scenery through which
their chargers bounded. The effect was rendered more imposing by the
reflection of the moon-beams from their polished spears, and the
pieces of silver which were affixed to their caps; while the luminous
firefly appeared in the air like rising and falling particles of
flame.
John Lander's horse was unable from weakness and exhaustion to carry
him further than Benikenny, so that he was obliged to walk the
remainder of the journey to Kiama, which was full six miles. About
eight o'clock, Kiama appeared before them, and in a few minutes they
entered the city, and rode directly to the king's house. He came out
to receive them, after having waited outside a very short time, and
welcomed them with much satisfaction and good will. He was an elderly
man, almost toothless, and had a beard as white as wool. Nothing
remarkable was observed in his dress or appearance. His first
question was respecting the health of their sovereign, and his second
and last respecting their own welfare. He seemed to be exceedingly
well pleased at seeing Richard Lander again. They then took their
leave, and were conducted by one of his slaves to a hut, or rather an
assemblage of huts, adjoining his own residence. The huts, however,
were not entirely to their satisfaction, for many of them had only
one aperture in each, which was scarcely three feet square, so that
they could not get into them excepting on their hands and knees. They
were, besides, so very warm and close, that they found great
difficulty in breathing, and in consequence they preferred a hut
which was cooler and better ventilated, though it had the
inconvenience of a thoroughfare. No sooner were they securely housed,
than half a dozen of the king's wives introduced themselves with huge
calabashes of sour milk, fried pancakes, and beef stewed in rice, the
first they had yet seen. Variously coloured mats, of excellent
workmanship, were afterwards brought for their use, and with thankful
hearts and comfortable feelings, they laid themselves down to rest.