CHAPTER XV.

It is impossible not to view the unquenchable zeal and intrepidity,

which Park evinced on his first journey, without feeling for the

individual the highest sentiments of admiration and respect. In

addition to those high qualifications, we witnessed an admirable

prudence in his intercourse with the natives, and a temper not to be

ruffled by the most trying provocations; a union of qualities often

thought incompatible, and which in our days we fear we cannot expect

to see again directed to the same pursuits. It may be further stated,

that to our own feelings, scarcely an individual of the age can be

named, who has sunk under circumstances of deeper interest than this

lamented traveller; whether we consider the loss, which geographical

science has suffered in his death, or whether we confine our views to

the blasted hopes of the individual, snatched away from his

hard-earned, but unfinished triumph, and leaving to others that

splendid consummation, which he so ardently sought to achieve. True

it is, that the future discoverer of the termination of the Niger,

must erect the structure of his fame on the wide foundation, with

which his great predecessor had already occupied the ground; but

although the edifice will owe its very existence to the labours of

Park, yet another name than his is now recorded on the finished pile;

Hos ego--feci, tulit alter honores.

The African Association, although enthusiastically attached to every

subject connected with the interior of Africa, soon found that,

unless the government would take up the subject as a national affair,

no great hope existed of arriving at the great objects of their

research; it was therefore proposed by Sir Joseph Banks, that a

memorial should be presented to his majesty George III, praying him

to institute those measures, by which the discoveries that Park had

made in the interior of Africa could be prosecuted, and which might

ultimately lead to the solution of those geographical problems, to

which the attention of the scientific men of the country were then

directed.

In the mean time Mr. Park had married the daughter of a Mr. Anderson,

with whom he had served his apprenticeship as a surgeon, and having

entered with some success in the practice of his profession, in the

town of Peebles, it was supposed, that content with the laurels so

dearly earned, he had renounced a life of peril and adventure. But

none of these ties could detain him, when the invitation was given to

renew and complete his splendid career. The invitation was formally

sent to him by government, in October 1801, to undertake an

expedition on a larger scale, into the interior of Africa. His mind

had been brooding on the subject with enthusiastic ardour. He had

held much intercourse with Mr. Maxwell, a gentleman who had long

commanded a vessel in the African trade, by whom he was persuaded

that the Congo, which since its discovery by the Portuguese, had been

almost lost sight of by the Europeans, would prove to be the channel

by which the Niger, after watering all the regions of interior

Africa, enters the Atlantic. The scientific world were very much

disposed to adopt Park's views on this subject, and accordingly the

whole plan of the expedition was adjusted with an avowed reference to

them. The agitation of the public mind, by the change of ministry,

and the war with France, delayed further proceedings till 1804, when

Mr. Park was desired by Lord Camden, the colonial secretary, to form

his arrangements, with an assurance of being supplied with every

means necessary for their accomplishment. The course which he now

suggested, was, that he should no longer travel as a single and

unprotected wanderer; his experience decided him against such a mode

of proceeding. He proposed to take with him a small party, who being

well armed and disciplined, might face almost any force which the

natives could oppose to them. He determined with this force to

proceed direct to Sego, to build there two boats forty feet long, and

thence to sail downwards to the estuary of the Congo. Instructions

were accordingly sent out to Goree, that he should be furnished

liberally with men, and every thing else of which he might stand in

need.

Mr. Park sailed from Portsmouth, in the Crescent transport, on the

30th January 1805. About the 9th of March, he arrived at the Cape

Verd Islands, and on the 28th reached Goree. There he provided

himself with an officer and thirty-five soldiers, and with a large

stock of asses from the islands, where the breed of these animals is

excellent, and which appeared well fitted for traversing the rugged

hills of the high country, whence issue the sources of the Senegal

and Niger. He took with him also two sailors and four artificers, who

had been sent from England. A month however elapsed, before all these

measures could be completed, and it was then evident that the rainy

season could not be far distant, a period, in which travelling is

very difficult and trying to European constitutions. It is clear,

therefore, that it would have been prudent to remain at Goree or

Pisania, till that season had passed; but in Mr. Park's enthusiastic

state of mind, it would have been extremely painful to linger so long

on the eve of his grand and favorite undertaking. He hoped, and it

seemed possible, that before the middle of June, when the rains

usually began, he might reach the Niger, which could then be

navigated without any serious toil or exposure. He departed,

therefore, with his little band from Pisania, on the 4th May, and

proceeded through Medina, along the banks of the Gambia. With so

strong a party, he was no longer dependent on the protection of the

petty kings and mansas, but the Africans seeing him so well provided,

thought he had now no claim on their hospitality; on the contrary,

they seized every opportunity to obtain some of the valuable articles

which they saw in his possession. Thefts were practised in the most

audacious manner; the kings drove a hard bargain for presents; at one

place, the women, with immense labour had emptied all the wells, that

they might derive an advantage from selling the water. Submitting

quietly to these little annoyances, Mr. Park proceeded along the

Gambia till he saw it flowing from the south, between the hills of

Foota Jalla and a high mountain called Mueianta. Turning his face

almost due west, he passed the streams of the Ba Lee, the Ba Ting,

and the Ba Woollima, the three principal tributaries of the Senegal.

His change of direction led him through a tract much more pleasing,

than that passed in his dreary return through the Jallonka

wilderness. The villages, built in delightful mountain glens, and

looking from their elevated precipices over a great extent of wooded

plain, appeared romantic beyond any thing he had ever seen. The rocks

near Sullo, assumed every possible diversity of form, towering like

ruined castles, spires and pyramids. One mass of granite so strongly

resembled the remains of a gothic abbey, with its niches: and ruined

staircase, that it required some time to satisfy him of its being

composed wholly of natural stone. The crossing of the river, now

considerably swelled, was attended with many difficulties, and in one

of them Isaaco, the guide, was nearly devoured by a crocodile.

It was near Satadoo, soon after passing the Faleme, that the party

experienced the first tornado, which marking the commencement of the

rainy season, proved for them the "beginning of sorrows." In these

tornadoes, violent storms of thunder and lightning are followed by

deluges of rain, which cover the ground three feet deep, and have a

peculiarly malignant influence on European constitutions. In three

days twelve men were on the sick-list; the natives, as they saw the

strength of the expedition decline, became more bold and frequent in

their predatory attacks. At Gambia attempts were made to overpower by

main force the whole party, and seize all they possessed; but, by

merely presenting their muskets, the assault was repelled without

bloodshed. At Mania Korro the whole population hung on their rear for

a considerable time, headed by thirty of the king's sons; and some

degree of delicacy was felt as to the mode of dealing with these

august thieves, so long as their proceedings were not quite

intolerable. One of them came up and engaged Mr. Park in

conversation, while another ran off with his fowling-piece, and on

his attempting to pursue him, the first took the opportunity of

seizing his great coat. Orders were now given to fire on all

depredators, royal or plebeian; and after a few shots had been

discharged without producing any fatal effects, the thieves hid

themselves amongst the rocks, and were merely seen peeping through

the crevices.

The expedition continued to melt away beneath the deadly influence of

an African climate. Everyday added to the list of the sick or dead,

or of those who declared themselves unable to proceed. Near Bangassi,

four men lay down at once. It was even with difficulty that Mr. Park

dragged forward his brother-in-law, Mr. Anderson, while he himself

felt very sick and faint. His spirits were about to sink entirely,

when, coming to an eminence, he obtained a distant view of the

mountains, the southern base of which he knew to be watered by the

Niger. Then indeed he forgot his fever, and thought only of climbing

the blue hills, which delighted his eyes.

Before he could arrive at that desired point, three weeks elapsed,

during which he experienced the greatest difficulty and suffering. At

length, he reached the summit of the ridge, which divides the Senegal

from the Niger, and coming to the brow of the hill, saw again this

majestic river rolling its immense stream along the plain. His

situation and prospects were, however, gloomy indeed, when compared

with those, with which he had left the banks of the Gambia. Of

thirty-eight men, whom he then had with him, there survived only

seven, all suffering from severe sickness, and some nearly at the

last extremity. Still his mind was full of the most sanguine hopes,

especially when, on the 22nd August, he found himself floating on the

waters of the Niger, and advancing towards the ultimate object of his

ambition. He hired canoes to convey his party to Maraboo, and the

river here, a mile in breadth, was so full and so deep, that its

current carried him easily over the rapids, but with a velocity,

which was even in a certain degree painful.

At Maraboo, he sent forward Isaaco, the interpreter, to Mansong, with

part of the presents, and to treat with that monarch for protection,

as well as for permission to build a boat. This envoy was absent

several days, during which great anxiety was felt, heightened by

several unfavourable rumours, amongst which was, that the king had

killed the envoy with his own hand, and announced his purpose to do

the same to every white man, who should come within his reach. These

fears were, however, dispelled by the appearance of the royal

singing-man, who brought a message of welcome, with an invitation to

repair to Sego, and deliver in person the remaining presents intended

for the monarch. At Samee, the party met Isaaco, who reported that

there was something very odd in his reception by Mansong. That prince

assured him, in general, that the expedition would be allowed to pass

down the Niger; but whenever the latter came to particulars, and

proposed an interview with Mr. Park, the king began to draw squares

and triangles with his finger on the sand, and in this geometrical

operation his mind seemed wholly absorbed. Isaaco suspected that he

laboured under some superstitious dread of white men, and sought by

these figures to defend himself against their magic influence. It was

finally arranged, that the presents should be delivered, not to

Mansong in person, but to Modibinne, his prime minister, who was to

come to Samee for that purpose. He accordingly appeared, and began by

inquiring, in the king's name, an explanation why Park had come to

Bambarra, with so great a train, from so distant a country, allowing

him a day to prepare his reply. Next morning, the traveller gave an

answer in form, representing his mission as chiefly commercial, and

holding forth the advantages, which Bambarra might reap by receiving

European goods directly from the coast, instead of circuitously, as

now, through Morocco, the desert, Timbuctoo, and Jenne, having a

profit levied on them at every transfer. Modibinne expressed

satisfaction both with the reasons and the presents, and on his

return next day, offered, on the part of Mansong, the option of

building a boat either at Samee, Sego, Sansanding, or Jenne. Park

chose Sansanding, thus enabling the king to avoid an interview with

the Europeans, of which he seemed to entertain so mysterious a dread.

The voyage down the river was distressing; for although the fatigue

of travelling was avoided, the heat was so intense, that it was

thought sufficient to have roasted a sirloin, and the sick had thus

no chance of recovery. Sansanding was found a prosperous and

flourishing town, with a crowded market well arranged. The principal

articles, which were cloth of Houssa or Jenne, antimony, beads, and

indigo, were each arranged in stalls, shaded by mats from the heat of

the sun. There was a separate market for salt, the main staple of

their trade. The whole presented a scene of commercial order and

activity totally unlooked for in the interior of Africa.

Mansong had promised to furnish two boats, but they were late in

arriving, and proved very defective. In order to raise money, it was

necessary to sell a considerable quantity of goods; nor was it

without much trouble, that the two skiffs were finally converted into

the schooner Joliba, forty feet long, six broad, and drawing only one

foot of water, being the fittest form for navigating the Niger

downward to the ocean.

During Mr. Park's stay at Sansanding, he had the misfortune to lose

his brother-in-law, Mr. Anderson, to whom his attachment was so

strong as to make him say, "No event which took place during the

journey ever threw the smallest gloom over my mind, till I laid Mr.

Anderson in the grave. I then felt myself as if left a second time,

lonely and friendless amidst the wilds of Africa." Although the party

were now reduced to five Europeans, one of whom was deranged, and

although the most gloomy anticipations could not fail to arise in the

mind of Mr. Park, his firmness was in no degree shaken. He announced

to Lord Camden his fixed purpose to discover the termination of the

Niger, or to perish in the attempt, adding, "Though all the

Europeans, who are with me should die, and though I were myself half

dead, I would still persevere." To Mrs. Park he announced the same

determination, combined with an undoubting confidence of success, and

the commencement of his voyage down the Niger, through the vast

unknown regions of interior Africa, he called, "turning his face

towards England."

It was on the 7th November 1805, that Park set sail on his last and

fatal voyage. A long interval elapsed without any tidings, which,

considering the great distance, and the many causes of delay, did not

at first excite alarm amongst his friends. As the following year,

however, passed on, rumours of an unpleasant nature began to prevail.

Alarmed by these, and feeling a deep interest in his fate, Governor

Maxwell, of Sierra Leone, engaged Isaaco, the guide, who had been

sent to the Gambia with despatches from the Niger, to undertake a

fresh journey to inquire after him. At Sansanding he was so far

fortunate as to meet Amadi Fatouma, who had been engaged to succeed

himself as interpreter. From him he received a journal, purporting to

contain the narrative of the voyage down the river, and of its final

issue. The party, it would appear, had purchased three slaves, who,

with the five Europeans and Fatouma, increased their number to nine.

They passed Silla and Jenne in a friendly manner; but at Rakbara

(Kabra) and Timbuctoo, they were attacked by several armed parties,

who were repelled only by a smart and destructive fire. No

particulars are given of any of these important places; nor of Kaffo

Gotoijege and others, which the discoverers are represented as having

afterwards passed. At length they came to the village, more properly

the city of Yaour, where Amadi Fatouma left the party, his services

having been engaged only to that point, He had, however, scarcely

taken his leave, when he was summoned before the king, who bitterly

complained that the white men, though they brought many valuable

commodities with them, had passed without giving him any presents. He

therefore ordered that Fatouma should be thrown into irons, and a

body of troops sent in pursuit of the English. These men reached

Boussa, and took possession of a pass, where rocks, hemming in the

river, allowed only a narrow channel for vessels to descend. When

Park arrived, he found the passage thus obstructed, but attempted

nevertheless to push his way through. The people began to attack him,

throwing lances, pikes, arrows, and stones. He defended himself for a

long time, when two of his slaves at the stern of the canoe were

killed. The crew threw every thing they had into the river, and kept

firing; but being overpowered by numbers and fatigue, unable to keep

up the canoe against the current, and seeing no probability of

escaping, Mr. Park took hold of one of the white men, and jumped into

the water. Martyn did the same, and they were all drowned in the

stream in attempting to escape. The only slave that remained in the

boat, seeing the natives persist in throwing weapons into it without

ceasing, stood up and said to them, "Stop throwing now; you see

nothing in the canoe, and nobody but myself; therefore cease. Take me

and the canoe; but don't kill me." They took possession of both, and

carried them to the king.

These sad tidings, conveyed in course to England, were not for a long

time received with general belief. The statement, being sifted with

care, was thought to contain inconsistencies, as well as such a

degree of improbability as left some room for hope; but year after

year elapsed, and this hope died away. Denham and Clapperton received

accounts from various quarters, which very nearly coincided with

those of Amadi Fatouma. Clapperton, in his last journey, even saw the

spot where he perished, which, allowing for some exaggeration, did

not ill correspond with the description just given; and further, he

received notice that Park's manuscripts were in the possession of the

king of Yaour, or Youri, who offered to deliver them up, on condition

that the captain would pay him a visit, which he, unfortunately, was

never able to perform.

Travels of Richard and John Lander into the interior of Africa, for the discovery of the course and termination of the Niger From unpublished documents in the possession of the late Capt. John William Barber Fullerton ... with a prefatory analysis of the previous travels of Park, Denham, Clapperton, Adams, Lyon, Ritchie, &c. into the hitherto unexplored countries of Africa · 第 11 / 40 章