St. Margaret's Well--St. Anthony's Chapel--Muschat's
Cairn--Jock's Lodge--Portobello--Restalrig.
To-day's walk must be a short one, for, with the sea in front of
us, and the rapidly increasing boundaries of Leith and Portobello
on either side, there only remains a small space to be explored.
Let us start from the Holyrood entrance to the Queen's Park, and
walk towards St. Margaret's Loch. The iron-barred gate, which
apparently leads to a vault in the hill-side to our right, guards
the curious old well of St. Margaret. If we go close to the bars,
in a few minutes our eyes become accustomed to the darkness, and we
can clearly see the venerable arches, with the central pillar which
supports the richly groined roof. A stone ledge runs round seven
sides of the building, a little above the level of the water, which
always flows there, clear and icy cold. The well formerly stood in a
picturesque situation near the church of Restalrig, and very probably
was the original fountain of St. Triduan, to which pilgrimages were
made.[46] An ancient elder-tree with twisted branches overshadowed
it; a tiny thatched cottage stood hard by; and the spot was the most
sheltered and peaceful that could be imagined. When the North British
Railway threatened to bury this curious well beneath its embankment,
and eventually destroy it (as it destroyed the beautiful and
venerable Collegiate Church of the Holy Trinity), Dr. Laing and other
enlightened and energetic antiquarians of the day made a successful
attempt to move the whole structure to the Queen's Park, where it was
erected over what was known of old as St. David's or the Rood Well.
It is now in safety, and presents its original appearance, though
deprived of its former picturesque surroundings.
[46] Sir David Lindsay writes of persons going
To Sanct Trid well to mend thair ene.
A little farther on, a steep path winds away up to St. Anthony's
Chapel, passing the stone from which gushes the famous wishing-well.
This well is mentioned in the beautiful and pathetic ballad of "The
Marchioness of Douglas," which begins,
Oh, waly, waly up yon bank,
An' waly, waly down yon brae.[47]
[47] I had intended only to quote a few lines of this touching
lament, but it is all so beautiful, I cannot refrain from quoting the
whole, and trust that those who know it well already will not mind
reading it again.