II

December 28. Lat. 39.10 N., long. 16.3 W. Course, S.W. 1/2 west. We are

nearing the tropics. Now the ship has such a complete set of grumblers,

good fellows who know their work better than anyone less than God, that

our great distance at sea is plain. Our men, casually gathered and

speaking divers tongues, detached from earth and set afloat on a mobile

islet to mix on it if they can, have become one body to deal with the

common enemy. We are corporate to face each trouble as it meets us, and

free to explain afterwards how much better we should have done under

another captain. The skipper knows this broad spirit now possesses us,

and so is contented and blithe, wearing only on deck that weary look

which is the sober badge of high office, as though he were an

unfortunate man to have us about him, we being what we are, but that he

would do his best with the fools, seeing we are in his charge.

This morning at six, hearing the men at the hosepipes giving the decks

their daily wash, I tumbled out for a cold tub. This is a simple affair.

You leave the cabin with a towel about you, stand in a clear space, and

rotate before the hydrant, to general cheering. A hot bath on the

"Capella" is not so easy, because, although there is a bath-room aboard,

it has become a paint locker. One must descend into the engine-room,

after warning the engineer on duty, who then will have ready a barrel,

filled from the boilers. The ingenious man will fix a shower bath also.

This is a perforated meat tin, hanging from a grating above the tub, and

connected with a pump. After a hot bath in the engine-room, where the

temperature was often well over 120 deg., that shower of cold sea water

would strike loud cries from any man whose self-control was uncertain.

This morning was the right prelude to the tropics. This was the morning

when, if our planet had been till then untenanted, a world unconsummated

and waiting approval, the divine approval would have come, and a child

would have been born, an immortal, the offspring of Aurora and the Sea

God, flame-haired and lusty, with eyes as bright as joy, and a rosy body

to be kissed from toes to crown. The dancing light, and the warm shower

suddenly born alive in it from one ripe cloud, the golden air, the waves

of the north-east trades, the seas of the world in the first dawn,

moving along like a multitude released to play, their blue passionate

and profound, their crests innocent and dazzling, made me think I might

hear faint cheering, if I listened intently. In the west was a steep

range of cloudland rising from the sea, and against it was inclined the

flame of a rainbow. There was that rainbow, as constant as the pennant

hoisted over an uplighted occasion. The world's noble emblem was aloft.

I demanded of the Skipper if he would run up our ensign in reply to it;

but he only peered at me curiously.

The heat increased with the day. We had run well down from the bleak

apex of the world with its nimbus of fogs. Here was the entrance to the

place where our youthful dreams began. I recognised it. Every feature

was as we both have seen it from afar, across the roofs from our outlook

in the arid city when the path to it had appeared as hopeless to our

feet as the path to the moon. This pioneer can assure his fellows whose

bright illusions grow fainter with age that their dreams must be

followed up, to be reached.

At midday we began to cast clothes. As to the afternoon, of that I

remember the less. There was the chief's empty bunk, so much more

alluring than my own. Into that I climbed, my mind steeled against

drowsy weakness. I would digest my dinner with a book, eyes sternly

alert.

The "Capella" rocked slowly, a big cradle. My body was lax and

responsive. There was about us the silent emptiness which is far from

the centres where many men believe it is necessary to get lots of things

done. The Chief suspired on his settee. The waves were singing to

themselves. A ray of light laughed in my eyes, playing hide and seek

across the wisdom of my book.... I put the book down.

As you know, where I had come from we do not dare to sleep during

daylight without first arguing with the conscience, which usually we

fail to convince. This comes of our mental trick which takes a pleasure

we wholly desire and puts on it a prohibitive label. Self-indulgence,

you understand; softening of the character; courage, brothers, do not

stumble. The solemn forefinger wags gravely in our faces. Before I fell

asleep, my habit, born of the hard grey weather which makes an

Englishman hard and prosperous, did come with its admonitory forefinger.

Remembering that I was secure in a sunnier world I cried out with ribald

mockery across the abyss I had safely crossed, knowing my old self could

not follow, and shut my eyes happily. And also, let me say--sitting up

again with an urgent afterthought, which I must get rid of before I

sleep--if this were not a plain narrative of travel without any wise

asides I would get off the "Capella" here to argue that what all you

fellows want in the place I have luckily left is not more

self-restraint, in which wan virtue you have long shown yourselves to be

so proficient that our awards for your merit have overcrowded the

workhouses, but more rollicking self-indulgence and a ruddy and bright

eyed insistence on the means to it. Look at me now in this bunk! Not

since I was last in a cradle have I felt the world would buoy me up if I

dared to shut my eyes to affairs while the sun was shining. But I am

going to try it again now, and risk my future. I repeat, I would argue

this with you, only I want to sleep....

It is worth recording that when I awoke I found nothing had happened to

me, except benefit. The venture can be made safely. Others had kept the

course for me. The ship had not stopped. Through the door I could see a

half-naked, blackened, and sweating stoker, who had been keeping the

fires while I slept, and he was getting back his breath in loud sobs.

Something had made him sick. These stupid and dirty men will drink too

much while they are attending to the furnaces. They have been warned of

the danger, of which they take no heed, and so they have to suffer. On

the poop was the second officer, busy in the hot sun with a gang,

overhauling a boat. And I found, on enquiry, that a man was still at the

wheel. So thereafter, while in the land of the constant sun, I slept

every afternoon, and was never a penny the worse. Somehow, you know,

things went on. I think I shall become one of the intelligent leisured

class.

It was within an hour of midnight. The moon had set. I was idling

amidships about the ship's shadowy structure when I was asked to take

charge of the bridge till eight bells. The second mate was ill, and the

first mate was asleep through overwork. The skipper said he would not

keep me up there long. I had but to call if a light came into view, and

to keep an eye on the wheelhouse. Ah, but it is long since I played at

ships, and was a pirate captain. I remembered there are dull folk who

wonder what it feels like to be a king. The king does not know. Ask the

small boy who is surprised with an order to hold a horse's head. I took

my promotion, mounting the steep ladder to the open height in the night.

I felt then I was more than sundered from my kind. I had been taken and

placed remotely from the comfort of the "Capella's" isolated community

also. There was me, and there were the stars. They were my nearest

neighbours. I stood for you among them alone. When the last man hears

but does not see the deep waters of this dark sphere in that night to

which there shall be no morning sun, he shall know what was my sensation

aloft in the saddle of the "Capella"; the only inhabitant of a congealed

asteroid off the main track in space, with the sun diminished to a point

through travel, and the Milky Way not reached yet; though I could see we

were approaching its bay of light. An appreciable journey had been made.

But by the faintness of its shine there was a timeless vacancy to be

travelled still. We should make that faint glow, that congregation of

suns, that archipelago of worlds; though not yet. But had we not all the

night to travel in? The night would be long. We should not be disrupted

any more by the old day. The final morning had passed. I had no doubt

the drift of the dark lump to which I clung in space, while my hair

streamed with our speed, would at length reach the bright fraternity, no

more than a dimmer of removed promise though it seemed.

A bell rang beside me in the night. It was answered at once from

somewhere ahead. Others, then, were journeying with me. The void was

peopled, though the travellers were all invisible; and I heard a

confident voice call, "Lights are burning bright." The lights were. I

could see that. But when the profundities are about you, and you think

you are alone in outer night, that is the kind of word to hear. Joyously

I shouted into what seemed to be boundless nothing, "All Right!"

* * * * *

One dayfall we saw the Canary Islands a great distance on the port beam.

I do not know which day it was. The Hesperides were as blurred as the

place in the calendar. The days had run together into a measureless

sense of well-being. We had passed the last of the trivial allotments of

time. The islands loomed, and I wondered whether that land was the hint

of something in a past life which the memory saw but could not shape.

Whatever was there it was too long forgotten. That apparition which a

whisper told me was land faded as I gazed at it overseas, lazily trying

to remember what it once meant. It was gone again. It was no matter now.

Perhaps I was deceiving myself. Perhaps I had had no other life. This

"Capella," always under the height of a blue dome, always the centre of

a circular floor of waters, waters to be seen beating against the steep

and luminous walls encompassing us, though nowhere finding an outlet,

was all my experience. I could recall only the faintest shadows of a

past into that limpid present. I could see nothing clearly that was not

confined within the dark faultless line where the sky was inseparably

annealed to the sea. Here I had been always. All I knew was this length

of sheltered deck, and those doors behind me where I leaned on a rail

between the stanchions, doors which sheltered a few familiars with their

clothes on hooks, their pipe racks, and photographs of women, a length

of deck finishing on either hand in two iron ladders, the ladder

forward, just past the radiation and coal grit by the engine-room

casing, descending to a broad walk which led to the forecastle head,

that bare outlook always at a difference with the horizon; and the

ladder aft going down to another broad walk, sticky with new tar, where

the bulwarks were as high as the breast, and Tinker, the dog, glad of a

word from you, trotted about the rusty winches and around the hatches;

and that walk aft finished in the door of the alleyway opening upon the

asylum of the doctor's cabin, and the saloon, the skipper's sanctum, and

the domain of the friendly steward. There was the smell of the cargo

drawing from the ventilators on the deck, when you went by their trumpet

mouths. There was the warm oily gush of air from the engine-room

entrance. And in the saloon alleyway I used to think the store of

potatoes, right behind, was generating gases. (But nobody knows every

origin of the marine smells.) Well, here were all the things my senses

apprehended. I could walk round my universe in five minutes. And when I

had finished I could do it again. Here I had been always. Nothing could

be clearer than that. Looking out from my immediate circumstances I saw

no entrance to the place where we were rocking, the place where the

"Capella" was alone. The walls of the enclosure were flawless. There was

not a door through them anywhere. There was not a rift in the precision

of the dark circle about us where one could crawl out between the sky

and the sea.

There we indubitably were though, and I dwelt constantly on the miracle

of that lucky existence. I could not doubt that we were there. Yet how

had we got there? I leave that to the metaphysicians. There we were; and

no man who merely trusted his experience could explain our presence.

There was some evidence to my simple mind that such a life in such

surroundings perchance was the gift of the gods, and that we could never

get any nearer the limits of the world in which we had been placed to

see what was beyond, could never approach that enclosure of blue walls

where the distant waves, which beat against them, could not get out.

Morning after morning I watched them, the dark leaping shapes of the far

rebels, mounting their prison at its base, and collapsing, beaten.

The seas never changed. They followed us and the wind, a living host,

the blue of their slopes and hollows as deep as ecstasy, their crests

white and lambent. They were buoyant, they were leisurely, they were the

right companions of travel. They just kept pace with us. They ran after

us like happy children, as though they had been lagging. They came abeam

to turn up to us their shining faces, calling to us musically, then

dropping behind again in silence. When I looked overside into the

pellucid depths, peering below the surface in long forgetfulness,

leaving the body and gliding the mind in that palpable and hyacinthine

air beneath us where the sunken foam dimmered in pale clouds, I felt

myself not afloat but hovering in the midst of a hollow sphere filled

with light. The blue water was only a heavier and a darker air. I had no

weight there. I was only a quiet thought tinctured with the royal colour

of the space wherein I drifted.

The upper half of the sphere was blue also, but of a different blue. The

rarer and more volatile ether was above us. The sea was its essence and

precipitate. The sea colour was profound and satisfying; but the colour

of the sky was diffused, as though the heaven were an idea which was

beyond you, which you stood regarding, and azure were it symbol, and

that by concentration you might fathom its meaning. But I can report no

luck from my concentrated efforts on that symbol. The colour may have

been its own reward.

* * * * *

Every morning after breakfast the Skipper and the Doctor made a visit to

the forecastle. Then, after the Doctor had carefully searched his dress

for insects, we spent the day together. We mounted the forecastle to

begin with, watching the acre of dazzling foam which the "Capella's"

bows broke around us. Out of that the flying fish would get up, just

under us, to go skimming off, flights of silver locusts. This reminded

the surgeon that we might try for albacore and bonito, which would be a

change from tinned mutton. The Skipper found a long fir pole, to which

was attached sixty fathoms of line, with a large hook which we covered

with a white rag, lapping a cutting of tin round the shank. When this

object was dropped over the stern in its leaps from wave to wave it bore

a distant resemblance to a flying fish. The weight of the trailing line,

breaking a cord "tell-tale," frequently gave us false alarms and long

tiring hauls. But on the second day the scaffold pole vibrated to some

purpose, and we knew we were hauling in more than the bait. We got

aboard a coryphene, the dolphin of the sailors. It gave us in its death

agony the famous display, beautiful, but rather painful to watch, for

the wonderful hues, as they changed, stayed in the eye, and sent to the

mind only a message of a creature in a violent death struggle.

The contours of this predatory fish express extraordinary speed and

power, and its armed mouth has been upturned by Providence the better to

catch the flying fish as they drop back to sea after an effort to escape

from it. But Providence, or evolution, had never taught the coryphene

that there are times when the little flying fish, as it falls back

exhausted, may be a rag of white shirt and a scrap of bright tin ware

with a large hook in its deceptive little belly. So there the dolphin

was, glowing and fading with the hues of faery. Its life really

illuminating it from within. As its life ebbed, or strove convulsively,

its colours waned and pulsed. It was gold when it came on board, and

darkened to ultramarine as it thrashed the deck, and its broad dorsal

fin showed violet eyes. Its body changed to a pale metallic green; and

then its light went out.

Now as I look back upon the "Capella" and her company as they were in

that period of our adventure when our place was but somewhere in

mid-ocean between Senegambia and Trinidad, I see us but indifferently,

for we are mellowed in that haze in which retrospection just discerns

those affairs, long since accomplished, that were not altogether

wearisome. It is better to go to my log again, for there the matter was

noted by the stub of a pencil at the very time, and when, unless a

beautiful mist was seen, it had not the remotest chance of being

recorded. When I turn to the diary for further evidence of those days of

blue and gold in the north-east trades its faithfulness is seen at once.

"_30 Decr._ A grey day. The sun fitful. Wind and seas on the port

quarter, and the large following billows occasionally lopping inboard as

she rolled. The decks therefore are sloppy again. We had a sharp

reminder at six bells that we are not bound to any health resort, as

Sandy put it. We were told to go aft, where the doctor would give each

of us five grains of quinine. This is to be a daily rite. To encourage

the men to take the quinine it is to be given to them in gin. Being

foreigners, they did not understand the advice about the quinine, but

they caught the word gin quite well, and they were outside the saloon

alleyway, a smiling queue, at the stroke of eleven. I went along to see

the harsh truth dawn on them. The first man was a big German deckhand.

He took the glass from the doctor. His shy and puzzled smile at this

unexpected charity from the skipper dissolved instantly when the quinine

got behind it. His eyes opened and stared at nothing. To the surprise of

his fellows he turned violently to the ship's side, rested his hands on

it, and spat; spat carefully, continuously and with grave deliberation.

"Distance run since noon yesterday 230 miles. Actual knots 9,5. Total

distance 2072 miles. There was not a living thing in sight to-day; not

even a flying fish.

"The night is fine and starlit, the Milky Way a brilliant arch from east

to west, under which we are steaming. When Venus rose she was a tiny

moon, so refulgent that she gave a faint pallor to a large area of sky,

outlined the coast of a cloud, and made a broad shining path on the sea.

The moon rose after nine, veiled in filmy air, peeping motionless at the

edge of a black curtain.

"The moon later was quite obscured, and the steamer ceased to exist

except where in my heated cabin the smoky oil lamp showed me my dismal

cubicle. I went in and sat on the mate's sea chest. The mate was on

duty. On the washstand was his mug of cocoa, and on top of the mug two

thick sandwiches of bread and meat. That food was black with

cockroaches. The oil lamp stank but gave little light. The engines were

throbbing, and out of the open door I saw the gleam of the wash, and

heard its harassing note. I could not read. I loathed the idea of

getting into the hot bunk and lying there, stewing, a clear keen,

clangour of thoughts making sleep impossible. The mate appeared, drove

off the cockroaches cheerfully, examined the sandwiches for

inconspicuous deer, opening each to make sure, and then muffled himself

with one. My God! I could have killed him with these two hands. What

right had he to be cheerful? But he is such a ginger-headed boy, and to

break that unconsciously happy smile of his would be sacrilege. Besides,

he began to tell me about his sweetheart. Her portrait hangs in our

cabin. It is an enlargement. You pay for the frame, and the

photographer, overjoyed I suppose, gives you the enlargement. I prefer

the second engineer's sweet-hearts, who are in colours, and are Dutch

picture postcards and cuttings from French comic papers; and he calls

them his recollections of Sundays at home. I listened, patient and kind,

to the second mate's reminiscences of rapturous evening walks under the

lamps of Swansea with this girl in the picture--no doubt it eased his

heart to tell me--till I could have howled aloud, like the dog who hears

music at night. Then I broke away, and ran to the chief's cabin for

sanctuary.

"The Chief was making an abstract, and was searching through his log for

ten tons of coal which were missing. In the hunt for the lost coal I

lost myself. I grew excited wherever a thick bush of figures promised

the hidden quarry; and in an hour's search found the strayed tons in

hiding at the bottom of a column. They had been left there, and not

transported into the next. Again the dread of that bunk had to be faced

and dealt with. I stood at the chief's door, knocking out my pipe,

looking astern into the night, looking to where Ursa-Major, our

celestial familiar of home, was low down and preparing to leave us

altogether to the strange and perhaps unlucky gods of other skies. O the

nights at sea!

"_31 Decr._ Wakened with my heart jumping because of a devastating sound

without. In the early morning, Tinker was being thrashed by the Old Man

for eating the saloon mats. When at 11.30 the men congregated amidships

with their tins for dinner the sun was a near furnace and the breeze a

balm. The white of the ship is now a glare, and the sea foam cannot be

looked at. Donkey lumbered out of his place where he attends to the

minor boiler, his face the colour of putty, and held to a rail, gazing

out with dead eyes overside, gasping. He declared he couldn't stick his

job. The flying fish are getting up in flights all day long. I saw one

fish go a distance of about fifty yards in a semi-circle, making a bight

in the direction of the wind. We caught another large coryphene to-day,

and had him in steaks for tea. He was much better cooked than the last,

which had the texture of white wool; and to increase our happiness the

cook had not given us sour bread. At midday we were 17.22 N. and 33.27

W.

"I had a lonely evening with the chief. This is New Year's eve. We

talked of the East India Dock Road, and of much else in London Town. At

eight bells, when we held up our glasses in the direction of Polaris,

the moon was bright and the waters hushed. Then we took each a hurricane

lamp, and went about the decks collecting flying fish for breakfast,

finding a dozen of them.

"_1 Jan._ The uplifted splendour of these days persists; but the

splendour sags now a little at midday with the weight of the heat. The

poop deck is now sheltered with an awning; and lying there in lazy

chairs, with a wind following and barely overtaking us, idly watching

the shadows of the overhead gear move on the bright awning as the ship

rolls, is to get caught in the toils of the droning wake, and to sleep

before you know you are a prisoner. The wake itself, in these seas, when

the sun is on it, a broad road going home straight and white over the

hills, the road which is not for us, is one of the good things of the

voyage. Straight beneath the rail the wake is an upheaval of gems,

sapphires, emeralds, and diamonds, always instantly melting in the sun,

always fusing and fleeting in swift coils of malachite and chrysoprase,

but never gone. As you watch that coloured turmoil it draws your mind

from your body. You feel your careless gaze snatched in the revolving

hues speeding astern, and your consciousness is instantly unwound from

your spinning brain, and you are left standing on the ship, an empty

spool.

"Under the awning at night, to the Doctor and to me, the first mate

played his accordion. He is a little Welshman, this mate, with a

childish nose and a brutish moustache, and in his face is blended a

girlish innocence of large affairs, and the hirsute nature of the adult

male animal, a nature he relieves on the "Capella" with bawdy talk and

guffaws. He played 'Come, Birdie, Come,' and things like that, and then

told us some Monte Videan stories. As they were true stories about

himself and other young sailors they ought really to be included in a

faithful diary of a sea voyage, yet as I cannot reproduce the Doctor's

antiseptic judgment, of which I know nothing but the glow of his pipe in

the unresponding dark at the end of the stories--the last titter of the

mate had died away--it is better to leave this matter alone.

"_3 Jan._ The hottest day we have had. I descended at midday to the

engines to see Sandy at work with his shining giants. Standing on the

middle platform, while he was shouting his greetings to me over the

uproar, I felt the heat of the grating through my boot soles, and

shifted. The temperature there was 122 deg.. Sandy was but in his drawers

and a pair of old boots, and the tongues of the boots, properly, were

hanging out. His noble torso was glistening with moisture, and as I

talked, energetically vaulting my words above the roar of the crank

throws in that hot and oleaginous place, the perspiration began a sudden

drop from my own face and hands, and in a copious way which startled me.

For a time I had some difficulty in breathing, as though in a vacuum,

but gradually forgot this danger of suffocation in the love of the

artist Sandy showed while offering me the spectacle of 'his job.' I

think I understood him. At first one would see no order in that haze of

rioting steel. The massive metal waves of the shaft were walloping and

plunging in their pits with an astonishing bird-like alacrity; about

fifteen tons of polished steel were moving with swift and somewhat awful

desperation. The big room shook and hummed with the vigour of it. But

order came as Sandy talked, and presently I found the continuous

thunder, that deadening bass of the crank throws, seemed to lessen as we

conversed, sitting together on a tool chest. Our voices easily

penetrated it. And listening more attentively at length I found what

Sandy said was true, that each tossing and circling part of the

room-full could be heard contributing its strident or profound note to

the chorus, and each became constant and expected, a singing personality

which was heard through the others whenever listened for. Above all, at

regular intervals, a rod rang clear, like the bell in Parsifal; yet,

curiously enough, Sandy declared he could not catch that note, though it

tolled clear and resonant enough in my ears. The skylight was so far

above us that we got little daylight. Hanging from the gratings in a few

places, some black iron pots, shaped like kettles, had cotton rags in

their spouts, and were giving us oil flares instead. The terrific

unremitting energy of the ponderous arms, moving thunderously, and still

with a speed which made tons as aery as flashes of light; and Sandy in

the midst of it, quick in nothing but his eyes, moving about his raging

but tethered monsters cock-sure and casual, rubbing his hands on a pull

of cotton waste, putting his ear down to listen attentively at a

bearing, his face turned from a steel fist which flung violently at his

head, missed him, and withdrew to shoot at him again, gave me the first

distinct feeling that our enterprise had its purpose powerfully

energised and cunningly directed. I felt as I watched the dance of the

eccentrics and the connecting rods that our ship was getting along

famously. I think I detected in Sandy himself a faint contempt for the

chap at the upper end of the telegraph. I stayed two hours, and then my

shirt was as though I had been overboard; and ascending a greasy and

almost perpendicular series of ladders to the upper world, I discovered,

from the drag of my feet and the weight of my body, that I had had just

as much of an engineer's watch in the tropics as I could stand. There

was a burst of cool light. The tumult ceased; and again there was the

old "Capella" rocking in the singing seas, for ever under the tranquil

clouds. We had stopped again.

"_4 Jan._ A moderate north-east wind and sea, and a bright morning; but

far out a dark cloud formed, and drew, and driving towards us, covered

us presently with a blue-black canopy. The warm torrent fell with

outrageous violence, and for all we could see of our way the "Capella"

might have been in a dense fog. The mosquito curtains were served out

to-day, and we amused ourselves draping our bunks. Later, the weather

cleared. The night was stiflingly hot; and in that reeking bunk, with an

iron bulkhead separating me from the engine room, it was like lying on

the shelf of an oven. Though wide open on its catch, the door admitted

no air, but did allow a miserable tap-tapping as the ship rolled. At

eleven o'clock a pale face floated in the black vacancy of the door, and

I could see the Doctor peering in to find if I were awake. 'I say,

Purser, I can't sleep. Will you come and have a gossip, old dear?' We

went aft in our pyjamas, the Doctor cleared away bottles and things from

his settee, and we disembarked from the 'Capella,' visiting other and

distant stars, returning to our own again not before three next morning.

"_5 Jan._ We seem to have got to a dead end of the trade winds. The heat

of the forenoon was oppressively humid and dinner was nearly lost

through it. The cook, a fair and plump Dutchman, broke down in the midst

of his pans, and was carried out to find his breath again. This poor

chef is up at four o'clock every morning coffee making; is working in

the galley, which is badly ventilated, all day, getting two hours' rest

in the early afternoon. Then he goes on till the saloon tea is over;

when he begins to bake bread. He fills in his leisure in peeling

potatoes.

"All round the horizon motionless and permanent storm clouds are banked.

Their forms do not alter, but their colours change with the hours. They

seem to encompass us in a circular lake, a range of precipitous and

intricately piled Alps, high and massive. Cleaving those steeps of

calamitous rocks--for so they looked, and not in the least like

vapour--are chasms full of night, and the upper slopes and summits are

lucent in amber and pearl. In the south and east the ranges are indigo

dark and threatening, and the water between us and that closed country

is opaque and heavy as molten lead. Across the peaks of the mountains

rest horizontal strata of mist. Some petrels were about to-day. The

evening is cool, with a slight head breeze."

* * * * *

After weeks at sea, imprisoned within the walls of the sky, walls which

have not opened once to admit another vessel to give the assurance of

communion, you begin to doubt your direction and destination, and the

possibility of change. Only the clouds change. The ship is no nearer

breaking that rigid circle. She cannot escape from her place under the

centre of the dome. The most cheering assurance I had was the pulse of

the steamer, felt whenever I rested against her warm body. Purposeful

life was there, at least. Though the day may have been brazen, and

without a hint of progress, and the sea the same empty wilderness, yet

when most disheartened in the blind and melancholy night I felt under me

the beatings, energetic and insistent, of her lively heart, some of that

vitality was communicated, and I got sleep as a child would in the arms

of a strong and wakeful guardian.

Poised between two profundities--though nearer the clouds, cirrus and

lofty though they are, than the land straight beneath the keel--and with

morning and night the only variety in the round, the days flicker by

white and black like a magic lantern working without a story. Tired of

watching for the fruits of our enterprise I went to sleep. Old Captain

Morgan must have lived a dull life, monotonous with adventure. What is

the use of travel, I asked myself. The stars are as near to London as

they are to the Spanish main. In their planetary journey through the

void the passengers at Peckham see as much as their fellows who peer

through the windows in Macassar. The sun rises in the east, and the moon

is horned; but some of the passengers on the mudball, strangely enough,

take their tea without milk. Yet what of that?

In the chart room some days ago I learned we had 3000 fathoms under us.

Well; these waves of the tropics, curling over such abysmal deeps, look

much the same as the waves off Land's End. I began to see what I had

done. I had changed the murk of winter in London for the discomforts of

the dog days. I had come thousands of miles to see the thermometer rise.

Where are the Spanish Main, the Guianas, and the Brazils? At last I had

discovered them. I found their true bearings. They are in Raleigh's

"Golden City of Manoa," in Burney's "Buccaneers of America," with Drake,

Humboldt, Bates, and Wallace; and I had left them all at home. We borrow

the light of an observant and imaginative traveller, and see the foreign

land bright with his aura; and we think it is the country which shines.

* * * * *

At eight this morning we crossed the equator. I paid my footing in

whisky, and forgot all about the equator. Soon after that, idling under

the poop awning, I picked up the Doctor's book from his vacant chair. I

took the essays of Emerson carelessly and read at once--the sage plainly

had laid a trap for me--"Why covet a knowledge of new facts? Day and

night, a house and garden, a few books, a few actions, serve as well as

all trades and spectacles." So----. At this moment the first mate

crossed my light, and presently I heard the sounding machine whirring,

and then stop. There was a pause, and then the mate's unimportant voice,

"Twenty-five fathoms, sir, grey sand!"

Emerson went sprawling. I stood up. Twenty-five fathoms! Then that grey

sand stuck to the tallow of the weight was the first of the Brazils. The

circle of waters was still complete about us, but over the bows, at a

great distance, were thunder clouds and wild lights. The oceanic swell

had decreased to a languid and glassy beat, and the water had become

jade green in colour, shot with turquoise gleams. The Skipper, himself

interested and almost jolly, announced a pound of tobacco to the first

man who spied the coast. We were nearing it at last. Those far clouds

canopied the forests of the Amazon. We stood in at slow speed.

I know those forests. I mean I have often navigated their obscure

waterways, rafting through the wilds on a map, in my slippers, at night.

Now those forests soon were to loom on a veritable skyline. I should see

them where they stood, their roots in the unfrequented floods. I should

see Santa Maria de Belem, its aerial foliage over its shipping and

squalor. It was quite near now. I should see Santarem and Obydos, and

Itacoatiara; and then, turning from the King of Rivers to his tributary,

the Madeira, follow the Madeira to the San Antonio falls in the heart of

the South American continent. We drew over 23 feet, with this "Capella."

We were going to try what had never been attempted before by an ocean

steamer. This, too, was pioneering. I also was on an adventure, going

two thousand miles under those clouds of the equatorial rains, to live

for a while in the forests of the Orellana. And our vessel's rigging, so

they tell me, sometimes shall drag the foliage in showers on our decks,

and where we anchor at night the creatures of the jungle will call.

Our nearness to land stirs up some old dreads in our minds also. We

discuss those dreads again, though with more concern than we did at

Swansea. Over the bows is now the prelude. We have heard many unsettling

legends of yellow fever, malaria, blackwater fever, dysentery, and

beri-beri. The mates, looking for land, swear they were fools to come a

voyage like this. They ought to have known better. The Doctor, who does

not always smile when he is amused, advises us not to buy a white sun

umbrella at Para, but a black one; then it will do for the funerals.

"Land O!" That was the Skipper's own perfunctory cry. He had saved his

pound of tobacco.

It was two in the afternoon. There was America. I rediscovered it with

some difficulty. All I could see was a mere local thickening of the

horizon, as though the pen which drew the faint line dividing the world

ahead into an upper and a nether opalescence had run a little freely at

one point. That thickening of the horizon was the island of Monjui.

Soon, though, there was a palpable something athwart our course. The

skyline heightened into a bluish barrier, which, as we approached still

nearer, broke into sections. The chart showed that a series of low

wooded islands skirted the mainland. Yet it was hard to believe we were

approaching land again. What showed as land was of too unsubstantial a

quality, too thin and broken a rind on that vast area of water to be of

any use as a foothold. Where luminous sky was behind an island groups of

diminutive palms showed, as tiny and distinct as the forms of mildew

under a magnifying glass, delicate black pencillings along the foot of

the sky-wall. Often that hairlike tracery seemed to rest upon the sea.

The "Capella" continued to stand in, till America was more than a frail

and tinted illusion which sometimes faded the more the eye sought it.

Presently it cast reflections. The islands grew into cobalt layers, with

vistas of silver water between them, giving them body. The course was

changed to west, and we cruised along for Atalaia point, towards the

pilot station. Over the thin and futile rind of land which topped the

sea--it might have undulated on the low swell--ponderous thunder clouds

towered, continents of night in the sky, with translucent areas dividing

them which were strangely illuminated from the hither side. Curtains as

black as bitumen draped to the waters from great heights. Two of these

appalling curtains, trailing over America, were a little withdrawn. We

could look beyond them to a diminishing array of glowing cloud summits,

as if we saw there an accidental revelation of a secret and wonderful

region with a sun of its own. And all, gigantic clouds, the sea, the far

and frail coast, were serene and still. The air had ceased to breathe. I

thought this new lucent world we had found might prove but a lucky dream

after all, to be seen but not to be entered, and that some noise would

presently shatter it and wake me. But we came alongside the white pilot

schooner, and the pilot put off in a boat manned by such a crowd of

grinning, ragged, and cinnamon skinned pirates as would have broken the

fragile wonder of any spell. Ours, though, did not break, and I was able

to believe we had arrived. At sunset the great clouds were full of

explosions of electric fire, and there were momentary revelations above

us of huge impending shapes. We went slowly over a lower world obscurely

lighted by phosphorescent waves.

* * * * *

It was not easy to make out, before sunrise, what it was we had come to.

I saw a phantom and indeterminate country; but as though we guessed it

was suspicious and observant, and its stillness a device, we moved

forward slowly and noiselessly, as a thief at an entrance. Low level

cliffs were near to either beam. The cliffs might have been the dense

residuum of the night. The night had been precipitated from the sky,

which was clearing and brightening. Our steamer was between banks of

these iron shades.

Suddenly the sunrise ran a long band of glowing saffron over the shadow

to port, and the vague summit became remarkable with a parapet of black

filigree, crowns and fronds of palms and strange trees showing in rigid

patterns of ebony. A faint air then moved from off shore as though under

the impulse of the pouring light. It was heated and humid, and bore a

curious odour, at once foreign and familiar, the smell of damp earth,

but not of the earth I knew, and of vegetation, but of vegetation exotic

and wild. For a time it puzzled me that I knew the smell; and then I

remembered where we had met before. It was in the palm house at Kew

Gardens. At Kew that odour once made a deeper impression on me than the

extraordinary vegetation itself, for as a boy I thought that I inhaled

the very spirit of the tropics of which it was born. After the first

minute on the Para River that smell went, and I never noticed it again.

Full day came quickly to show me the reality of one of my early visions,

and I suppose I may not expect many more such minutes as I spent when

watching from the "Capella's" bridge the forest of the Amazon take

shape. It was soon over. The morning light brimmed at the forest top,

and spilled into the river. The channel filled with sunshine. There it

was then. In the northern cliff I could see even the boughs and trunks;

they were veins of silver in a mass of solid chrysolite. This forest had

not the rounded and dull verdure of our own woods in midsummer, with

deep bays of shadow. It was a sheer front, uniform, shadowless, and

astonishingly vivid. I thought then the appearance of the forest was but

a local feature, and so gazed at it for what it would show me next. It

had nothing else to show me. Clumps of palms threw their fronds above

the forest roof in some places, or a giant exogen raised a dome; but

that was all. Those strong characters in the growth were seen only in

passing. They did not change the outlook ahead of converging lines of

level green heights rising directly from a brownish flood.

Occasionally the river narrowed, or we passed close to one wall, and

then we could see the texture of the forest surface, the microstructure

of the cliff, though we could never look into it for more than a few

yards, except where, in some places, habitations were thrust into the

base of the woods, as in lower caverns. An exuberant wealth of forms

built up that forest which was so featureless from a little distance.

The numerous palms gave grace and life to the facade, for their plumes

flung in noble arcs from tall and slender columns, or sprayed directly

from the ground in emerald fountains. The rest was inextricable

confusion. Vines looped across the front of green, binding the forest

with cordage, and the roots of epiphytes dropped from upper boughs, like

hanks of twine.

In some places the river widened into lagoons, and we seemed to be in a

maze of islands. Canoes shot across the waterways, and river schooners,

shaped very like junks, with high poops and blue and red sails, were

diminished beneath the verdure, betraying the great height of the woods.

Because of its longitudinal extension, fining down to a point in the

distance, the elevation of the forest, when uncontrasted, looked much

less than it really was. The scene was so luminous, still, and

voiceless, it was so like a radiant mirage, or a vivid remembrance of an

emotional dream got from books read and read again, that only the

unquestionable verity of our iron steamer, present with her smoke and

prosaic gear, convinced me that what was outside us was there. Across a

hatch a large butterfly hovered and flickered like a flame. Dragon flies

were suspended invisibly over our awning, jewels in shimmering enamels.

* * * * *

We anchored just before breakfast, and a small launch flying a large

Brazilian flag was soon fussing at our gangway. The Brazilian customs

men boarded us, and the official who was left in charge to overlook the

"Capella" while we remained was a tall and majestic Latin with dark eyes

of such nobility and brooding melancholy that it never occurred to me

that our doctor, who has travelled much, was other than a fellow with a

dull Anglo-Saxon mind when he removed some loose property to his cabin

and locked his door, before he went ashore. So I left my field glasses

on the ice-chest; and that was the last I saw of them. Yet that fellow

had such lovely hair, as the ladies would say, and his smile and his

courtesy were fit for kings. He carried a scented pink handkerchief and

wore patent leather boots. Our surgeon had but a faint laugh when these

explanations were made to him, taking my hand fondly, and saying he

loved little children.

Para, a flat congestion of white buildings and red roofs in the sun, was

about a mile beyond our anchorage, over the port bow; and as its name

has been to me one that had the appeal of the world not ours, like

Tripoli of Barbary, Macassar, the Marquesas, and the Rio Madre de Dios,

the agent's launch, as it took us towards the small craft lying

immediately before the front of that spread of houses between the river

and the forest, was so momentous an occasion that the small talk of the

dainty Englishmen in linen suits, a gossiping group around the agent and

the Skipper, hardly came into the picture, to my mind. The launch rudely

hustled through a cluster of gaily painted native boats, the dingiest of

them bearing some sonorous name, and I landed in Brazil.

There was an esplanade, shadowed by an avenue of mangoes. We crossed

that, and went along hot narrow streets, by blotched and shabby walls,

to the office to which our ship was consigned. We met a fisherman

carrying a large turtle by a flipper. We came to a dim cool warehouse.

There, some negroes and half-breeds were lazily hauling packages in the

shadows. It had an office railed off where a few English clerks, in

immaculate white, overlooked a staff of natives. The warehouse had a

strange and memorable odour, evasive, sweet, and pungent, as barbaric a

note as I found in Para, and I understood at once I had come to a place

where there were things I did not know. I felt almost timorous and yet

compelled when I sniffed at those shadows; though what the eye saw in

the squalid streets of the riverside, where brown folk stood regarding

us carelessly from openings in the walls, I had thought no more than a

little interesting.

What length of time we should have in Belem was uncertain, but presently

the Skipper, looking most morose, came away from his discussion with the

agent and told us, at some length, what he thought of people who kept a

ship waiting because of a few unimportant papers. Then he mumbled, very

reluctantly, that we had plenty of time to see all Para. The Doctor and

I were out of that office before the Skipper had time to change his

mind. Our captain is a very excellent master mariner, but occasionally

he likes to test the security of his absolute autocracy, to see if it is

still sound. I never knew it when it was not; but yet he must, to assure

himself of a certainty, or to exercise some devilish choler in his

nature, sometimes beat our poor weak bodies against the adamant thing,

to see which first will break. I will say for him that he is always

polite when handing back to us our bruised fragments. Here he was giving

us a day's freedom, and one's first city of the tropics in which to

spend it; and we agreed with him that such a waste of time was almost

unbearable, and left hurriedly.

Outside the office was a small public square where grew palms which ran

flexible boles, swaying with the weight of their crowns, clear above the

surrounding buildings, shadowing them except in one place, where the

front of a ruinous church showed, topped by a crucifix. The church, a

white and dilapidated structure, was hoary with ficus and other plants

which grew from ledges and crevices. Through the crowns of the palms the

sunlight fell in dazzling lathes and partitions, chequering the stones.

An ox-cart stood beneath.

The Paraenses, passing by at a lazy gait--which I was soon compelled to

imitate--in the heat, were puzzling folk to one used to the features of

a race of pure blood, like ourselves. Portuguese, negro, and Indian were

there, but rarely a true type of one. Except where the black was the

predominant factor the men were impoverished bodies, sallow, meagre, and

listless; though there were some brown and brawny ruffians by the

foreshore. But the women often were very showy creatures, certainly

indolent in movement, but not listless, and built in notable curves.

They were usually of a richer colour than their mates, and moved as

though their blood were of a quicker temper. They had slow and insolent

eyes. The Indian has given them the black hair and brown skin, the negro

the figure, and Portugal their features and eyes. Of course, the ladies

of Para society, boasting their straight Portuguese descent, are not

included in this insulting description; and I do not think I saw them.

Unless, indeed, they were the ladies who boldly eyed us in the

fashionable Para hotel, where we lunched, at a great price, off imported

potatoes, tinned peas, and beef which in England would be sold to a glue

factory; I mean the women in those Parisian costumes erring something on

the sides of emphasis, and whose remarkable pallor was even a little

greenish in the throat shadows.

After lunch some disappointment and irresolution crept into our

holiday....There had been a time--but that was when Para was only in a

book; that was when its mere printed name was to me a token of the

tropics. You know the place I mean. You can picture it. Paths that go at

noon but a little way into the jungle which overshadows an isolated

community of strange but kindly folk, paths that end in a twilight

stillness; ardent hues, flowers of vanilla, warm rain, a luscious and

generative earth, fireflies in the scented dusk of gardens; and

mystery--every outlook disappearing in the dark of the unknown.

Well, here I was, placed by the ordinary moves of circumstance in the

very place the name of which once had been to me like a chord of that

music none hears but oneself. I stood in Para, outside a picture

postcard shop. Electric cars were bumping down a narrow street. The

glitter of a cheap jeweller's was next to the stationer's; and on the

other side was a vendor of American and Parisian boots. There have been

changes in Para since Bates wrote his idylls of the forest. We two

travellers, after ordering some red earthenware chatties, went to find

Bates' village of Nazareth. In 1850 it was a mile from the town. It is

part of the town now, and an electric tram took us there, a tram which

drove vultures off the line as it bumped along. The heat was a serious

burden. The many dogs, which found energy enough to limp out of the way

of the car only when at the point of death, were thin and diseased, and

most unfortunate to our nice eyes. The Brazilian men of better quality

we passed were dressed in black cloth suits, and one mocked the equator

with a silk hat and yellow boots. I set down these things as the tram

showed them. The evident pride and hauteur, too, of these Latins, was a

surprise to one of a stronger race. We stopped at a street corner, and

this was Nazareth. Bates' pleasant hamlet is now the place of Para's

fashionable homes--pleasant still, though the overhead tram cables, and

the electric light standards which interrupt the avenues of trees, place

you there, now your own turn comes to look for the romance of the

tropics, in another century. But the villas are in heliotrope, primrose,

azure, and rose, bowered in extravagant arbours of papaws mangoes,

bananas, and palms, with shrubberies beneath of feathery mimosas, and

cassias with orange and crimson blooms. And my last walk ashore was in

Swansea High Street in the winter rain! From Nazareth's main street the

side turnings go down to the forest. For, in spite of its quays, its

steamers, and its electric trams, Para is but built in a larger clearing

of the wilderness. The jungle stood at the bottom of all suburban

streets, a definite city wall. The spontaneity and savage freedom of the

plant life in this land of alternate hot sun and warm showers at last

blurred and made insignificant to me the men who braved it in silk hats

and broadcloth there, and the trams, and the jewellers' shops, for my

experience of vegetation was got on my knees in a London suburb, praying

things to come out of the cold mud. Here, I began to suspect, they

besieged us, quick and turbulent, an exhaustible army, ready to

reconquer the foothold man had hardly won, and to obliterate his works.

We passed through by-ways, where naked brown babies played before the

doors. We happened upon the cathedral, and went on to the little dock

where native vessels rested on garbage, the tide being out. Vultures

pulled at stuff beneath the bilges. The crews, more Indian than

anything, and men of better body than the sallow fellows in the town,

sprawled on the hot stones of the quays and about the decks. There was a

huge negress, arms akimbo, a shapeless monument in black indiarubber

draped in cotton print, who talked loudly with a red boneless mouth to

two disregarding Indians sitting with their backs to a wall. She had a

rabbit's foot, mounted in silver, hanging between her dugs. The

schooners, ranged in an arcade, were rigged for lateen sails, very like

Mediterranean craft. The forest was a narrow neutral tinted ribbon far

beyond. The sky was blue, the texture of porcelain. The river was

yellow. And I was grievously disappointed; yet if you put it to me I

cannot say why. There was something missing, and I don't know what.

There was something I could not find; but as it is too intangible a

matter for me to describe even now, you may say, if you like, that the

fault was with me, and not with Para. We stood in a shady place, and the

doctor, looking down at his hand, suddenly struck it. "Let us go," he

said. He showed me the corpse of a mosquito. "Have you ever seen the

yellow fever chap?" the Doctor asked. "That is he." We left.

Near the agent's office we met an English shipping clerk, and he took us

into a drink shop, and sat us at a marble-topped table having gilded

iron legs, and called for gin tonics. We began to tell him what we

thought of Para. It did not seem much of a place. It was neither here

nor there.

He was a pallid fellow with a contemplative smile, and with weary eyes

and tired movements. "I know all that," he said. "It's a bit of a hole.

Still--You'd be surprised. There's a lot here you don't see at first.

It's big. All out there--he waved his arm west inclusively--it's a world

with no light yet. You get lost in it. But you're going up. You'll see.

The other end of the forest is as far from the people in the streets

here as London is--it's farther--and they know no more about it. I was

like you when I first came. I gave the place a week, and then reckoned I

knew it near enough. Now, I'm--well, I'm half afraid of it ... not

afraid of anything I can see ... I don't know. There's something dam

strange about it. Something you never can find out. It's something

that's been here since the beginning, and it's too big and strong for

us. It waits its time. I can feel it now. Look at those palm trees,

outside. Don't they look as if they're waiting? What are they waiting

for? You get that feeling here in the afternoon when you can't get air,

and the rain clouds are banking up round the woods, and nothing moves.

'Lord,' said a fellow to me when I first came, 'tell us about Peckham.

But for the spicy talk about yellow fever I'd think I was dead and

waiting wide awake for the judgment day.' That's just the feeling. As if

something dark was coming and you couldn't move. There the forest is,

all round us. Nobody knows what's at the back of it. Men leave Para,

going up river. We have a drink in here, and they go up river, and don't

come back.

"Down by the square one day I saw an old boy in white ducks and a sun

helmet having a shindy with the sentry at the barracks. The old fellow

was kicking up a dust. He was English, and I suppose he thought the

sentry would understand him, if he shouted. English and Americans do.

"You have to get into the road here, when you approach the barracks.

It's the custom. The sentry always sends you off the pavement. The old

chap was quite red in the face about it. And the things he was saying!

Lucky for him the soldier didn't know what he meant. So I went over, as

he was an Englishman, and told him what the sentry wanted. 'What,' said

the man, 'walk in the road? Not me. I'd sooner go back.'

"Go back he did, too. I walked with him and we got rather pally. We came

in here. We sat at that table in the corner. He said he was Captain

Davis, of Barry. Ever heard of him? He said he had brought out a

shallow-draught river boat, and he was taking her up the Rio Japura. The

way he talked! Do you know the Japura? Well, it's a deuce of a way from

here. But that old captain talked--he talked like a child. He was so

obstinate about it. He was going to take that boat up the Japura, and

you'd have thought it was above Boulter's Lock. Then he began to swear

about the dagoes.

"The old chap got quite wild again when he thought of that soldier. He

was a little man, nothing of him, and his face was screwed up as if he

was always annoyed about something. You have to take things as they

come, here, and let it go. But this Davis man was an irritable old boy,

and most of his talk was about money. He said he was through with the

boat running jobs. No more of 'em. It was as bare as boards. Nothing to

be made at the game, he said. Over his left eye he had a funny hairy

wart, a sort of knob, and whenever he got excited it turned red. I may

say he let me pay for all the drinks. I reckon he was pretty close with

his money.

"He told me he knew a man in Barry who'd got a fine pub--a little

gold-mine. He said there was a stuffed bear at the pub and it brought

lots of customers. Seemed to think I must know the place. He said he was

going to try to get an alligator for the chap who kept the pub. The

alligator could stand on its hind legs at the other side of the door,

with an electric bulb in its mouth, like a lemon. That was his fine

idea. He reckoned that would bring customers. Then old Davis started to

fidget about. I began to think he wanted to tell me something, and I

wondered what the deuce it was. I thought it was money. It generally is.

At last he told me. He wanted one of those dried Indian heads for that

pub. 'You know what I mean,' he said. 'The Indians kill somebody, and

make his head smaller than a baby's, and the hair hangs down all round.'

"Have you ever seen one of those heads? The Indians bone 'em, and stuff

'em with spice and gums, and let 'em dry in the sun. They don't look

nice. I've seen one or two.

"But I tried to persuade him to let the head go. The Government has

stopped that business, you know. Got a bit too thick. If you ordered a

head, the Johnnies would just go out and have somebody's napper.

"I missed old Davis after that. I was transferred to Manaos, up river. I

don't know what became of him. It was nearly a year when I came back to

Para. Our people had had the clearing of that boat old Davis brought

out, and I found some of his papers, still unsettled. I asked about him,

in a general way, and found he hadn't arrived. His tug had been back

twice. When it was here last it seemed the native skipper explained

Davis went ashore, when returning, at a place where they touched for

rubber. He went into the village and didn't come back. Well, it seems

the skipper waited. No Davis. So he tootled his whistle and went on up

stream, because the river was falling, and he had some more stations to

do in the season. He was at the village again in a few days, though, and

Davis wasn't there then. The tug captain said the village was deserted,

and he supposed the old chap had gone down river in another boat. But

he's not back yet. The boss said the fever had got him, somewhere.

That's the way things go here.

"A month ago an American civil engineer touched here, and had to wait

for a boat for New York. He'd been right up country surveying for some

job or another, Peru way. I went up to his hotel with the fellows to see

him one evening. He was on his knees packing his trunks. 'Say, boys,' he

said, sitting on the floor, 'I brought a whole lot of truck from way up,

and now it hasn't got a smile for me.' He offered me his collection of

butterflies. Then the Yankee picked up a ball of newspaper off the

floor, and began to peel it. 'This goes home,' he said. 'Have you seen

anything like that? I bet you haven't.' He held out the opened packet in

his hand, and there was a brown core to it. 'I reckon that is thousands

of years old,' said the American.

"It was a little dried head, no bigger than a cricket ball, and about

the same colour. Very like an Indian's too. The features were quite

plain, and there was a tiny wart over the left eyebrow. 'I bet you

that's thousands of years old,' said the American. 'I bet you it isn't

two,' I said."

* * * * *

We returned to the steamer in the late afternoon, bringing with us two

Brazilian pilots, who were to take us as far as Itacoatiara. We sailed

next morning for the interior. Para, like all the towns on the Amazon,

has but one way out of it. There is a continent behind Para, but you

cannot go that way; when you leave the city you must take the river.

Para stands by the only entrance to what is now the greatest region of

virgin tropics left in the world. Always at anchor off the city's front

are at least a dozen European steamers, most of them flying the red

ensign. A famous engineering contractor, also British, is busy

constructing modern wharves there; and Thames tugs and mudhoppers,

flying the Brazilian flag, as the law insists, but bawling London

compliments as they pass your ship, help the native schooners with their

rakish lateen sails, blue and scarlet, to make the anchorage brisk and

lively. Looking out from the "Capella's" bridge she appeared to be

within a lagoon. The lake was elliptical, and so large it was a world

for the eye to range in. It was bound by a low barrier of forest, a

barrier distant enough to lose colour, nature, and significance. Para,

white and red, lay reflecting the sunset from many facets in the

south-west, with a cheerful array of superior towers and spires. From

the ship Para looked big, modern, and prosperous; and with those vast

rounded clouds of the rains assembling and mounting over the bright

city, and brooding there, impassive and dark, but with impending keels

lustrous with the burnish of copper and steel, and seeing a rainbow

curving down from one cloud over the city's white front, I, being a

new-comer, and with a pardonable feeling of exhilaration which was of my

own well-being in a new and a wide and radiant place, thought of man

there as a conqueror who had overcome the wilderness, builded him a

city, bridled the exuberance of a savage land, and directed the sap and

life, born in a rich soil of ardent sun and rain, into the forms useful

to him. So I entered the chart-room, and looked with a new interest on

the chart of the place. Then I felt less certain of the conqueror and

his taming bridle. I saw that this lagoon in which the "Capella" showed

large and important was but a point in an immense area of tractless

islands and meandering waterways, a region intricate, and, the chart

confessed, little known. The coast opposite the city, which I had taken

for mainland, was the trivial Ihla des Oncas. The main channel of the

river was beyond that island, with the coast of Marajo for the farther

shore; and Marajo also was but an island, though as large as Wales. The

north channel of the Amazon was beyond again, with more islands, about

which the chart confessed less knowledge. One of the pilots was with me;

and when I spoke of those points in the ultimate Amazons, the alluring

names on maps you read in England, here they were, at Para, just what

they are at home, still vague and far, journeys thither to be reckoned

by time; a shrug of the shoulders and a look of amusement; two months,

Senhor, or perhaps three or four. The idea came slowly; but it dawned,

something like the conception of astronomy's amplitudes, of the

remoteness of the beyond of Amazonas, that new world I had just entered.

I crept within the mosquito curtain that night, and the still heated

dark lay on my mind, the pressure of an unknown full of dread. I thought

of the pale shipping clerk and his tired smile, and of Captain Davis,

his face no bigger than a cricket ball, and the same colour, with a wart

over his eye; and recalled the anxious canvass I had heard made for news

of sickness up-river. A ship had passed outwards that morning, the

consul told us, with twenty men on board down with fever.

And Thorwaldsen. I forgot to tell you about Thorwaldsen. He was a

trader, and last rainy season he took his vessel up some far backwater,

beyond Manaos, with his wife and his little daughter. News had just come

from nowhere to Para that his wife had died in childbirth in the wilds,

and Thorwaldsen had been murdered; but nothing was known of his

daughter. There it was. I did not know the Thorwaldsens. But the

trader's little girl who might then be alone in the gloom of the jungle

with savages, helped to keep me awake. And the wife, that fair-haired

Swede; she was in the alien wilderness, beyond all gentlehood, when her

time came. I could see two mosquitoes doing their best to work backwards

through the curtain mesh. They were after me, the emissaries of the

unknown, and their pertinacity was astonishing.

* * * * *

"_Jan. 9._ The 'Capella' left Para at three o'clock this morning, and

continued up the Para River. Daylight found us in a wide brownish

stream, with the shores low and indistinguishable on either beam. When

the sun grew hot, the jungle came close in; it was often so close that

we could see the nests of wasps on the trees, like grey shields hanging

there. Between the Para River and the Amazon the waters dissipate into a

maze of serpenting ditches. In width these channels usually are no more

than canals, but they were deep enough to float our big tramp steamer.

They thread a multitude of islands, islands overloaded with a massed

growth which topped our mast-heads. Our steamer was enclosed within

resonant chasms, and the noise and incongruity of our progress awoke

deep protests there.