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SHACKLETON’S LAST VOYAGE
[Illustration: THE CAIRN
_Photo: Wilkins_]
SHACKLETON’S
LAST VOYAGE.
The Story of the _Quest_. By
Commander FRANK WILD, C.B.E.
From the Official Journal and Private
Diary kept by Dr. A. H. MACKLIN
_With Frontispiece in Colour, numerous Maps
and over 100 Illustrations from Photographs_
CASSELL AND COMPANY, LTD
London, New York, Toronto and Melbourne
1923
First Published _May 1923_.
Second Edition _June 1923_.
_Reprinted November 1923_
Printed in Great Britain
To
THE BOSS
“_Yonder the far horizon lies,
And there by night and day
The old ships draw to port again,
The young ships sail away.
And go I must and come I may,
And if men ask you why,
You may lay the blame on the stars and the sun
And the white road and the sky._”
GERALD GOULD
PREFACE
Sir Ernest Shackleton died suddenly; so suddenly that he said no word
at all with regard to the future of the expedition. But I know that had
he foreseen his death and been able to communicate to me his wishes,
they would have been summed up in the two words, “Carry on!”
Perhaps the most difficult part of my task has been the recording
of the work of the expedition. It has been to me a very sad duty,
and one which I would gladly have avoided had it been possible. The
demand, however, for the complete story of Sir Ernest Shackleton’s last
expedition has been so widespread and insistent that I could no longer
withhold it.
In the subsequent pages of this book the reader will find recorded the
story of the voyage of the _Quest_, the tight little ship that carried
us through over twenty thousand miles of stormy ocean and brought us
safely back.
I make no claim to literary style, but have endeavoured to set forth a
plain and simple narrative.
The writings of explorers vary, but in my opinion they have all one
common fault, which is, that they have attempted to combine in one
volume the scientific results with the more popular story of the
expedition.
This book is for the public. I have sought to eliminate the mass of
scientific details with which my journal is filled, to avoid technical
terms, and to retain only that which can be easily understood by all.
Of the parts of the narrative that deal with Sir Ernest Shackleton I
have passed over very shortly. Pens far more able than mine, notably
those of Mr. Harold Begbie and Dr. Hugh Robert Mill, have written of
his life and character.
Though I was his companion on every one of his expeditions, I know
little of his life at home. It is a curious thing that men thrown so
closely together as those engaged in Polar work should never seek to
know anything of each other’s “inside” affairs. But to the “Explorer”
Shackleton I was joined by ties so strongly welded through the many
years of common hardship and struggle that to write of him at all is
extremely difficult. Nothing I could set down can convey what I feel,
and I have a horror of false and wordy sentiment. I trust, therefore,
that those readers who may think that I have dealt too lightly with the
parts of the story which more intimately concern him will sympathize
and respect my feelings in the matter.
I must take this opportunity of acknowledging my deep feeling of
gratitude to Mr. John Quiller Rowett. What the expedition owes to
him no one, not even its individual members, can ever realize. There
have been many supporters of enterprises of this nature, but usually
they have sought from it some commercial gain. Mr. Rowett’s support
was due solely to his keen interest in scientific research, which
he had previously instituted and encouraged in other fields. He bore
practically the whole financial burden, and this expedition is almost
unique in that it was clear of debt at the time of its return.
But, in addition to this, I owe him much for his kindly encouragement,
his clear, sound judgment, and his unfailing assistance whenever I have
sought it. Mrs. Rowett has given me invaluable assistance throughout
the preparation of the book and has corrected the proofs. For her
kindly hospitality I owe more than I can say, for to myself and others
of the expedition her house has ever been open, and we have received
always the most kindly welcome. In this connexion I could say a great
deal, but it would be inadequate to convey what I feel.
The expedition owes also a debt of gratitude to Sir Frederick Becker,
for his encouraging assistance was rendered early in its inception.
To the many public-spirited firms who came forward with offers of
assistance to what was considered a national enterprise I must make my
acknowledgments. It is regrettable that many of the smaller suppliers
of the expedition seized the chance of a cheap advertisement at the
time of our departure, but a number of the more reputable firms made no
stipulation of any sort, but presented us with goods as a free gift. I
can assure them that I do not lightly regard their share in helping on
the work, for we were thus enabled to carry in our food stores only the
best of products, Sir Ernest Shackleton rigidly eliminating all goods
which he felt unable to trust.
To Mr. James A. Cook I owe much for the hard work he has done at all
times and for the help which he rendered whilst the expedition was away
from England.
To my many other friends who have at one time and another been of
assistance I tender my grateful acknowledgments, knowing full well
that they will realize how impossible it is for me to thank them all by
name.
I must thank Dr. Macklin for the care he took in keeping the official
diary of the expedition. This and his own private journal, from which
I have freely quoted, have both been invaluable to me.
To “The Boys,” those who stood by me and gave me their loyal service
throughout an arduous and trying period, I say nothing—for they know
how I feel.
FRANK WILD.
CONTENTS
CHAPTER PAGE
1. INCEPTION 1
2. LONDON TO RIO DE JANEIRO 16
3. RIO TO SOUTH GEORGIA 44
4. DEATH OF SIR ERNEST SHACKLETON 64
5. PREPARATIONS IN SOUTH GEORGIA 71
6. INTO THE SOUTH 80
7. THE ICE 122
8. ELEPHANT ISLAND 155
9. SOUTH GEORGIA (SECOND VISIT) 173
10. THE TRISTAN DA CUNHA GROUP 199
11. TRISTAN DA CUNHA By DR. MACKLIN 219
12. TRISTAN DA CUNHA (_continued_) ” 243
13. DIEGO ALVAREZ OR GOUGH ISLAND 265
14. CAPE TOWN 287
15. ST. HELENA—ASCENSION ISLAND—ST. VINCENT 294
16. HOME 310
APPENDICES
I.—GEOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS 314
II.—NATURAL HISTORY 328
III.—METEOROLOGY 340
IV.—HYDROGRAPHIC WORK 343
V.—MEDICAL 352
LIST OF PERSONNEL 366
INDEX 367
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
The Cairn _Colour Frontispiece_
PLATE FACING PAGE
1. Sir Ernest Shackleton in Polar Clothing 4
2. Mr. John Quiller Rowett 5
3. A Diagrammatic View of the _Quest_ 6
4. Sectional Views of the _Quest_ 7
5. The Sperry Gyroscopic Compass 10
6. The Enclosed Bridge of the _Quest_ 11
7. The _Quest_ at Hay’s Wharf 12
8. Kerr (Chief Engineer) Examining the Lucas Deep-sea
Sounding Machine 13
9. The Wireless Operating Room—The Ward Room of the
_Quest_ 20
10. The _Quest_ Passing the Tower of London on her way to the
Sea—The Schermuly Portable Rocket Apparatus 21
11. The _Quest_ in the North-east Trades 28
12. The Tow Net in Use 29
13. A Porpoise which was Harpooned from the Bowsprit 32
14. Query—The Boss Gives Query a Bath 33
15. Landing the Shore Party at St. Paul’s Rocks 48
16. The White-capped Noddy (_Anous stolidus_) on St. Paul’s
Rocks—The Booby (_Sula leucogastra_) 49
17. Commander Worsley Superintending Work in the Rigging
at Rio de Janeiro 50
18. The _Quest_ in Gritviken Harbour 51
19. The Whaling Station at Gritviken 62
20. Sunset on the Slopes of South Georgia 63
21. The Resting Place of a Great Explorer 64
22. The Picturesque Setting of Prince Olaf Station 65
23. Prince Olaf Whaling Station 68
24. A Steam Whaler with Two Whales brought in for
Flensing—Huge Blue Whales at South Georgia 69
25. The “Plan” at Gritviken, with a Whale in Process of
Being Flensed 76
26. Leith Harbour, South Georgia 77
27. Chart of Larsen Harbour—The Entrance to Larsen
Harbour 80
28. An Expedition in Search of Fresh Food—Marr, McIlroy,
Commander Wild, Macklin 81
29. Commander Wild 82
30. A Small Berg—A Curious “Toothed” Berg 83
31. A Lovely Evening in the Sub-Antarctic 86
32. Too Many Cooks—Our First Deep-sea Sounding 87
33. The Western End of Zavodovski Island, showing
Grounded Icebergs 90
34. Sentinel of the Antarctic 91
35. A Typical Scene at the Pack Edge 94
36. Killers Rising to “Blow”—The _Quest_ Pushing Through
Thin Ice 95
37. Loose Open Pack—Loose Pack Ice, with the Sea Rapidly
Freezing Over 96
38. The Midnight Sun 97
39. The Loneliness of the Pack 100
40. An Unpleasant but Necessary Duty—Taking Crab-eater
Seals for Food 101
41. Commander Wild at the Masthead 108
42. Pushing South Through Heavy Pack—The _Quest_ Ploughing
Through Heavy Ice Pack 109
43. The _Quest_ at her Farthest South—Jeffrey and Douglas
taking Observations for Magnetic Dip 112
44. Heavy Pressed-up Pack Ice, the _Quest_ in the Distance
—Commander Wild and Worsley Examining a Newly
Formed “Lead” in the Pack Ice 113
45. The _Quest_ Pushing North Through Rapidly Freezing Ice 114
46. “Watering” Ship with Floe Ice 115
47. Emperor Penguins on the Floe: A Still Evening in the
Pack 118
48. Frozen Spray 119
49. Commander Wild’s Watch: McIlroy, Carr, Wild, Macklin—The
“Black” Watch: Ross, Argles, Young, Kerr, Smith 122
50. Worsley’s Watch: Douglas, Wilkins, Watts, Worsley—
Jeffrey’s Watch: McLeod, Marr, Jeffrey, Dell 123
51. Chipping Frozen Spray from the Gunwales 126
52. The _Quest_ Beset near Ross’s Appearance of Land 127
53. Rowett Island, off Cape Lookout, Elephant Island 150
54. The Kent “Clear-View” Screen—Approaching Cape
Lookout 151
55. Loading Sea-elephants’ Blubber, Elephant Island 154
56. Somnolent Content: a Sea-elephant on Elephant Island—
Ringed Penguins and a Paddy Bird (_Chionis alba_) 155
57. Shackleton’s Last Anchorage—McLeod and Marr clearing
up After a Blizzard 160
58. Sugar Top Mountain, Part of the Allardyce Range, South
Georgia 161
59. A Glacier Face in South Georgia 176
60. A Rocky Outcrop in South Georgia 177
61. Distended Whale Carcasses in Prince Olaf Harbour 178
62. Cape Pigeons (_Daption capensis_) at South Georgia 179
63. The Northern Coast of Drygalski Fiord—Cape Saunders 182
64. The New Type of Whaler—The Black-browed Albatross
or Mollymauk 183
65. A Pair of Adult Wandering Albatross—A Young Albatross 186
66. Gentoo Penguin Feeding its Chick—The Chick after
Feeding 187
67. On the Way to the Cairn—Looking Shorewards from the
Cairn 190
68. Our Farewell to the Boss 191
69. The Settlement at Tristan da Cunha from the Sea—View
of the Settlement from the East 208
70. Landing at Big Beach, Tristan da Cunha—A Tristan
Bullock Cart 209
71. Nightingale Island—Inaccessible Island 224
72. Wireless Pole being erected, Tristan—Carr and Douglas
with Two Tristan Guides, Henry Green and Glass 225
73. John Glass and Family—The Mission House on Tristan
da Cunha 240
74. The “Potato Patches” on Tristan da Cunha 241
75. Tristan Women Twisting Wool—The Tristan Method of
Carding Wool 256
76. Henry Green’s Cottage, Tristan da Cunha—The Oldest
Inhabitant of Tristan da Cunha, Miss Betty Cotton 257
77. View of Gough Island from the Glen Anchorage 262
78. The Apostle, an Acid Intrusive near the Summit of Gough
Island—The Little Glen where the New Sophora was
Discovered 263
79. On the Way to the Summit 266
80. The Glen Anchorage from the Higher Slopes 267
81. The _Quest_ seen through the Archway Rock, Gough Island 276
82. Dell Rocks, at the North-eastern End of Glen Beach 277
83. Lot’s Wife Cove and Church Rocks, Gough Island 284
84. Lot’s Wife, Gough Island 285
85. The _Quest_ Entering Table Bay—The _Quest_ in Dock at
Cape Town 288
86. The Summit of Ascension Island 289
87. The Abandoned Wireless Station on Ascension Island—
Flowering Plants Growing in the Volcanic Ash at
Ascension Island 304
88. Wideawake Plain, Ascension Island—A Wideawake 305
89. Weatherpost Hill, Ascension Island, Looking East 308
90. A View in San Miguel in the Azores 309
91. Booby with Chick—A Booby Chick 316
92. Types of Fish Caught in the Lagoon at St. Paul’s Rocks—
White-capped Noddies at St. Paul’s Rocks 317
93. Gentoo Penguin with Two Chicks—Nesting Ground of the
Mollymauk 320
94. Giant Petrel at Nest 321
95. The Surface of a Glacier, showing Numerous Crevasses 336
96. Sea-elephants in Tussock Grass 337
97. The Island Tree (_Phylica nitida_)—Sea-elephants among
the Rocks 340
98. Commander Worsley taking Observations of the Sun by
Sextant—Hussey (Taking Sea Temperatures), Commander
Wild and McIlroy 341
99. Setting up Kites for the Taking of Meteorological
Observations 348
100. An Apparatus for Bringing Up Specimens of the Sea
Bottom 349
Shackleton’s Last Voyage
CHAPTER I
INCEPTION
After the finish of the Great War, which had employed every able-bodied
man in the country in one way or another, Sir Ernest Shackleton
returned to London and wrote his famous epic “South,” the story of
the Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition. Before it was finished he
had again felt the call of the ice, and concluded his book with the
following sentence: “Though some have gone, there are enough to rally
round and form a nucleus for the next expedition, when troublous times
are over, and scientific exploration can once more be legitimately
undertaken.”
For many years he had had an inclination to take an expedition into the
Arctic and compare the two ice zones. He felt, too, a keen desire to
pit himself against the American and Norwegian explorers who of recent
years had held the foremost position in Arctic exploration, to win for
the British flag a further renown, and to add to the sum of British
achievements in the frozen North.
There is still, in spite of the long and unremitting siege which has
gradually tinted the uncoloured portions of the map and brought within
our ken section after section of the unexplored areas, a large blank
space comprising what is known as the Beaufort Sea, approximately in
the centre of which is the point called by Stefansson the “centre of
the zone of inaccessibility.” It was the exploration of this area that
Sir Ernest made his aim. In addition he felt a strong desire to clear
up the mystery of the North Pole, and for ever settle the Peary-Cook
controversy, which did so much to alienate public sympathy from Polar
enterprise.
It is characteristic of him that before proceeding with any part of the
organization he wrote first to Mr. Stefansson, the Canadian explorer,
to ask if the new expedition would interfere with any plan of his. He
received in reply a letter saying that not only did it not interfere in
any way, but that he (Stefansson) would be glad to afford any help that
lay in his power and put at his disposal any information which might
prove valuable.
Sir Ernest’s plans were the result of several years of hard work
with careful reference to the records of previous explorers, and his
organization was remarkable for its completeness and detail.
The proposed expedition had an added interest in that the whole
of his Polar experience was gained in the Antarctic. It met with
instant recognition from the leading scientists and geographers of
this country, who saw in it far-reaching and valuable results. The
Council of the Royal Geographical Society sent a letter which showed
their appreciation of the importance of the work, and expressed their
approval of himself as commander and of the names he had submitted as
those of men eminently qualified to make a strong personnel for the
expedition.
Sir Ernest Shackleton was fortunate in securing the active co-operation
in the working out of his plans of Dr. H. R. Mill, the greatest living
authority on Polar regions.
The scheme, however, was an ambitious one, and was likely to prove
costly.
The period following the end of the war was perhaps not a suitable one
in many ways to commence an undertaking of this nature, for Sir Ernest
had the greatest difficulty in raising the necessary funds. In this
country he received the support of Mr. John Quiller Rowett and Sir
Frederick Becker.
Feeling that the work of exploration and the possible discovery of
new lands in what may be called the Canadian sector of the Arctic
was likely to be of interest to the Canadian Government, he visited
Ottawa, where he was in close touch with many of the leading members
of the Canadian House of Commons. He returned to this country well
pleased with his visit, and stated that he had obtained the active
co-operation of several prominent Canadians and received from the
Canadian Government the promise of a grant of money.
He was now in a position to start work, and immediately threw himself
into the preparation of the expedition. He got together a small nucleus
of men well known to him, including some who had accompanied him on
the _Endurance_ expedition, designed and ordered a quantity of special
stores and equipment, and bought a ship which cost as an initial outlay
£11,000. Dr. Macklin was sent to Canada to buy and collect together at
some suitable spot a hundred good sledge-dogs of the “Husky” type.
It would be impossible to convey an accurate idea of the closely
detailed work which is involved in the preparation for a Polar
expedition. Much of the equipment is of a highly technical nature
and requires to be specially manufactured. Everything must be carried
and nothing must be forgotten, for once away the most trivial article
cannot be obtained. Everything also must be of good quality and sound
design; and each article, whatever it may be, must function properly
when actually put into use.
At what was almost the last moment, whilst preparations were in full
swing, the Canadian Government, being more or less committed to a
policy of retrenchment, discovered that they were not in a position to
advance funds for this purpose, and withdrew their support. This was a
great blow, for it made impossible the continuance of the scheme.
In the meantime the bulk of the personnel had been collected, some of
the men having come from far distant parts of the world to join in the
adventure, abandoning their businesses to do so. Some of us, knowing
of the scheme, had waited for two years, putting aside permanent
employment so that we might be free to join when required; for such
is the extraordinary attraction of Polar exploration to those who have
once engaged in it, that they will give up much, often all they have,
to pit themselves once more against the ice and gamble with their lives
in this greatest of all games of chance. Yet if you were to ask what
is the attraction or where the fascination of it lies, probably not one
could give you an answer.
[Illustration: SIR ERNEST SHACKLETON IN POLAR CLOTHING
_Photo: F. & A. Swaine_]
[Illustration: MR. JOHN QUILLER ROWETT
_Photo: F. & A. Swaine_]
Sir Ernest Shackleton received the blow with outward equanimity, which
was not shaken when, with the decision of the Canadian Government, the
more timorous of his supporters also withdrew. Always seen at his best
in adverse circumstances, he wasted no time in useless complainings,
but started even at this eleventh hour to remodel his plans.
Nevertheless, the situation was a very difficult one. He had committed
himself to heavy expenditure, and what weighed not least with him
at this time was his consideration for the men who had come to join
the enterprise. At this critical point Mr. John Quiller Rowett came
forward to bear an active part in the work, and took upon his shoulders
practically the whole financial responsibility of the expedition. The
importance of this action cannot be too much emphasized, for without it
the carrying on of the work would have been impossible.
Mr. Rowett had a wide outlook which enabled him to take a keen interest
in all scientific affairs. Previous to this he had helped to found
the Rowett Institute for Agricultural Research at Aberdeen, and
had prompted and given practical support to researches in medicine,
chemistry and several other branches of science. His many interests
included geographical discovery, and he saw clearly the important
bearing which conditions in the Polar regions have upon the temperate
zones. He saw also the possible economic value of the observations and
data which would be collected.
His name must therefore rank amongst the great supporters of Polar
exploration, such as the brothers Enderby, Sir George Newnes and Mr. A.
C. Harmsworth (afterwards Lord Northcliffe).
Mr. Rowett’s generous action is the more remarkable in that he was
fully aware in giving this support to the expedition that there was
no prospect of financial return. What he did was done purely out of
friendship to Shackleton and in the interests of science. The new
expedition was named the Shackleton-Rowett Expedition, and announcement
of it was received by the public with the greatest interest.
As it was now too late to catch the Arctic open season, the northern
expedition was cancelled, and Sir Ernest reverted to one of his old
schemes for scientific research in the South, which again met with the
approval of the chief scientific bodies.
This change of plans threw an enormous burden of work not only upon Sir
Ernest, but also upon those of us who formed his staff at this period,
for we had little time in which to complete the preparations. Dr.
Macklin was recalled from Canada, for under the new scheme sledge-dogs
were not required.
The programme did not aim at the attainment of the Pole or include
any prolonged land journey, but made its main object the taking of
observations and the collection of scientific data in Antarctic and
sub-Antarctic areas.
The proposed route led to the following places: St. Paul’s Rocks on the
Equator, South Trinidad Island, Tristan da Cunha, Inaccessible Island,
Nightingale and Middle Islands, Diego Alvarez or Gough Island, and
thence to Cape Town.
Cape Town was to be the base for operations in the ice, and a depot
of stores for that part of the journey would be formed there. The
route led eastward from there to Marion, Crozet and Heard Islands,
and then into the ice, where the track to be followed was, of course,
problematical, but would lead westwards, to emerge again at South
Georgia.
[Illustration: A DIAGRAMMATIC VIEW OF THE _QUEST_
1. Crow’s Nest with Gyro-compass; 2. Mark Buoy; 3. Sperry
Gyro-compass; 4, Hydrographic Room; 5. Sir Ernest Shackleton’s
Quarters; 6. Clear View Screen; 7. Kipling’s “If”; 8. Semaphore;
9. Range Finder; 10. Standard Binnacle; 11. Meteorological
Screen; 12. Gyro-compass; 13. Wireless Room; 14. Life-boat Deck;
15. One of two Life-boats; 16. Mark Buoy; 17. Water Tank; 18.
Kelvin Sounding Machine; 19. Surf Boat; 20. Stowage for Stores
and Specimens; 21. Sleeping Accommodation for Naturalist and
Photographer; 22. Windlass; 23. Dark-room; 24. Chain-locker; 25.
Lucas Sounding Machine; 26. Stores; 27. 15-ton Water Tank; 28 and
29. Stores; 30. High-power Wireless Room; 31. Coal Bunkers; 32.
Boiler; 33. Galley; 34. Avro; 35. Main Engines; 36. Engine Room;
37. Ward Room.
_By courtesy of Illustrated London News_]
[Illustration: SECTIONAL VIEWS OF THE _QUEST_
1. Sir Ernest Shackleton’s Quarters; 2. Sperry Gyro-compass
Hydrographic Room; 3. Entrance to Dark Room; 4. The Hydrographic
Room; 5. The Galley; 6. Ward Room; 7. Bath Room under the Bridge
(Starboard side).
_By courtesy of Illustrated London News_]
From South Georgia it led to Bouvet Island, and back to Cape Town to
refit. From Cape Town, the second time, the route included New Zealand,
Raratonga, Tuanaki (the “Lost Island”), Dougherty Island, the Birdwood
Bank, and home via the Atlantic.
The scientific work included the taking of meteorological observations,
including air and sea temperatures, kite and balloon work, magnetic
observations, hydrographical and oceanographical work, including an
extensive series of soundings, and the mapping and careful charting
of little-known islands. Search was to be made for lands marked on the
map as “doubtful.” A collection of natural history specimens would be
made, and a geological survey and examination carried out in all the
places visited. Ice observations would be carried on in the South, and
an attempt made to reach and map out new land in the Enderby Quadrant.
Photography was made a special feature, and a large and expensive
outfit of cameras, cinematograph machines and general photographic
appliances acquired.
The Admiralty and the Air Ministry co-operated and materially assisted
by lending much of the scientific apparatus. Lieut.-Commander R. T.
Gould, of the Hydrographic Department, provided us with books and
reports of previous explorers concerning the little-known parts of
our route, and his information, gleaned from all sources and collected
together for our use, proved of the greatest value.
It was decided to carry an aeroplane or seaplane to assist in aerial
observations and to be used as the “eyes” of the expedition in the
South. Flying machines had never before been used in Polar exploration,
and there were obvious difficulties in the way of extreme cold and lack
of adequate accommodation, but after consultation with the Air Ministry
it was thought possible to overcome them. The machine ultimately
selected was a “Baby” seaplane, designed and manufactured by the Avro
Company.
One of the first things done by Sir Ernest Shackleton in preparing for
the northern expedition had been the purchase of a small wooden vessel
of 125 tons, named the _Foca I_. She was built in Norway, fitted with
auxiliary steam-engines of compound type and 125 horse-power. She was
originally designed for sealing in Arctic waters, the hull was strongly
made, and the timbers were supported by wooden beams with natural bends
of enormous strength. The bow was of solid oak sheathed with steel. Her
length was 111 feet, beam 23 feet, and her sides were 2 feet thick. Her
draught was 9 feet forward and 14 feet aft. She was ketch-rigged, and
was reputed to be able to steam at seven knots in still water and to do
the same with sail only in favourable winds.
At the happy suggestion of Lady Shackleton she was re-named the _Quest_.
Sir Ernest received what he considered the greatest honour of his
life. The _Quest_ as his yacht was elected to the Royal Yacht Squadron.
Perhaps a more ugly, businesslike little “yacht” never flew the burgee,
and her appearance must have contrasted strangely with the beautiful
and shapely lines of her more aristocratic sisters.
She was brought to Southampton in March, 1921, and placed in the
shipyards for extensive alterations. The work was greatly impeded by
the strike of ship workers, the general coal strike which occurred at
that time, and by difficulties generally with labour, which was then
passing through a very critical period.
It had been intended to take out the steam-engines and substitute
an internal combustion motor of the Diesel type, but owing to the
difficulties mentioned this had to be abandoned, and on the advice
of the surveying engineer in charge of the work the old engines
were retained. The bunker space was readjusted at the expense of the
fore-hold, allowing a carrying capacity of 120 tons of coal, and giving
a steaming radius which, with economy and use of sail, was estimated at
from four to five thousand miles.
This work was in process when it became necessary to alter the plans
of the expedition, and Sir Ernest realized that the _Quest_, which had
been considered eminently suitable for the northern scheme, was not so
well adapted for the long cruise in southern waters. It was impossible
at this stage to change the ship, but further alterations were made on
deck and in the rigging generally to adapt her for the new conditions.
Two yards were fitted, a topsail yard, 39 feet in length, and a
foreyard to carry a large squaresail, 44 feet in length. The mizen-mast
was lengthened to give a greater clearance to the wireless aerials. The
existing bridge was enlarged, carried across the full breadth of the
ship, and completely enclosed with windows of Triplex glass. The roof
formed an upper bridge open to the air. To improve the accommodation,
which was inadequate, a deck-house, 12 feet by 20 feet, was erected
on the foredeck. It contained five rooms: four small cabins, and a
room for housing hydrographical and meteorological instruments. New
canvas and running gear was fitted throughout, and no expense spared
to make her sound and seaworthy. Mr. Rowett was absolutely insistent
that everything about the ship must be such as to ensure her safety
and the safety of all on board in so far as it was humanly possible.
To everything in connexion with the ship herself Sir Ernest, as an
experienced seaman, gave his personal attention. The work of the
engine-room, which, as he was not an engineer, he was not able to
supervise directly, was entrusted to a consulting engineer.
The _Quest_, though strong and well equipped, was small, and
consequently accommodation generally was limited and living quarters
were somewhat cramped. The forecastle was fitted as a small biological
laboratory and geological workroom. In it were a bench for the
naturalist and numerous cupboards for the storing of specimens. Leading
from it on one side was a small cabin with two bunks for the naturalist
and photographer respectively, and on the other was the photographic
dark room.
The amount of gear placed aboard the ship was large, and the greatest
ingenuity was required to stow it satisfactorily.
Two wireless transmitting and receiving sets, of naval pattern, were
installed under the immediate supervision of a wireless expert, kindly
lent to us by the Admiralty. The current for them was supplied by
two generators, one a steam dynamo producing 220 volts, and a smaller
paraffin internal-combustion motor producing 110 volts. The _Quest_
being a wooden vessel, there was great difficulty in providing suitable
“earthing.” For this purpose two copper plates were attached to either
side of the ship below the water-line.
[Illustration: THE SPERRY GYROSCOPIC COMPASS
_Photo: Topical_]
[Illustration: THE ENCLOSED BRIDGE OF THE _QUEST_
_Photo: Topical_]
The more powerful of these sets was never very satisfactory, and we
ultimately abandoned its use. The smaller proved entirely satisfactory
for transmitting at distances up to 250 miles. The receiving apparatus
was chiefly of value in obtaining time signals, which are sent
out nightly from nearly all the large wireless stations, and which
we received at distances up to 3,000 miles. By this means we were
frequently able, whilst in the South, to check our chronometers; but
atmospheric conditions in those regions were very bad, and by producing
loud adventitious noises in the ear-pieces interfered so much with the
clarity of sounds that the obtaining of accurate signals was generally
impossible.
A Sperry gyroscopic compass was installed, the gyroscopic apparatus
being placed in the deck-house, with repeaters in the enclosed bridge
and on the upper bridge. The dials were luminous, so that they could be
read at night. This apparatus has the advantage that it is independent
of immediate outside influences. It is usually supposed that at
65° north or south it ceases to be effective, but we found that the
directive force was still sufficient at 69° south. It is interesting
to note that this compass was designed by a German scientist to enable
a submarine to reach the North Pole. It has been of the greatest use
to ships in a general way, but for the one specific purpose for which
it was designed it proved to be useless owing to the loss of directive
power at the Poles. We found that bumping the ship through ice caused
derangement, and as the compass took several hours to settle down again
to normal, it proved ineffective whilst we were navigating through the
pack.
Fitted into the enclosed bridge and looking forward were two Kent
clear-view screens. They were electrically driven. They proved, when
running, to be absolutely effective against rain, snow or spray.
The ship was fitted throughout with electric lighting, including the
navigating lights. Whilst in the South, however, the necessity for
economy of fuel forbade the use of electricity and we had recourse to
oil lamps. As we were then completely out of the track of shipping,
navigating lights were not used.
Two sounding machines were installed, one an electrically-driven Kelvin
apparatus for depths up to 300 fathoms. To obtain accurate soundings
whilst the ship was under way, the sinker was fitted to carry sounding
tubes, and had also an arrangement for indicating the nature of the
bottom, whether rock, shingle or sand. For deep-sea work we had a
Lucas steam-driven machine, which was affixed to a special platform
on the port bow and supplied by a flexible tube from the steam pipe
feeding the forward winch. This apparatus registered depths to four
miles. Sounding with it was often difficult on account of the swell
and the liveliness of the _Quest_, but the machine itself gave every
satisfaction. The wire used with the Lucas machine was Brunton wire
in coils of 6,000 fathoms, diameter .028, weight 12.3 lbs. per 1,000
fathoms, with a breaking strain of 200 lbs.
The meteorological equipment included:
Screens, containing wet and dry bulb thermometers, placed in exposed
positions on the upper bridge.
One large screen, containing hair hygrograph, standard thermometer and
thermograph.
(The heavy seas which broke over the ship and flung sprays over the
upper bridge greatly interfered with the efficient working of these
instruments by encrusting them with salt, and necessitated constant
cleaning.)
[Illustration: THE _QUEST_ AT HAY’S WHARF
Where she was fitted out for the trip
_Photo: Topical_]
[Illustration: KERR (CHIEF ENGINEER) EXAMINING THE LUCAS DEEP-SEA
SOUNDING MACHINE
_Photo: Topical_]
Hydrometers, for determining the specific gravity of sea-water, which
gives a measure of the total salinity.
Sea-thermometers, for determining the surface temperatures of the
sea-water.
Marine pattern mercury barometer.
Aneroid barometers, checked daily from the mercury barometer, in case
the latter should be broken.
Barograph, to obtain continuous records of the air pressure.
For upper-air work four cylinders of hydrogen and several hundred pilot
balloons were taken. (These latter were sent up on many occasions
from the ship, but the _Quest_ proved to be so lively that it was
impossible to keep them in the field of view of a telescope or even of
field-glasses.)
All the instruments were very kindly lent to us by the Meteorological
Section of the Air Ministry, and were of standard make and pattern.
We carried a good set of sextants, theodolites, dip circles and other
accurate surveying instruments.
Several chronometers of different makes and patterns were placed
aboard. Two of them, specially rated for us by Mr. Bagge, of the
Waltham Watch Company, gave excellent results and, in spite of the
violent motion of the ship and the difficulty of keeping a uniform
temperature, maintained a remarkably even rating.
The medical equipment was designed for compactness and all-round
usefulness.
Sledges, harness, warm clothing, footgear and an amount of scientific
equipment were forwarded to Cape Town and warehoused to await the
arrival of the _Quest_.
The greatest difficulty was experienced in the housing of the seaplane,
but, after dismantling wings and floats, room was eventually found for
it in the port alleyway, which it almost filled.
Sir Ernest Shackleton, as has already been said, in choosing his
personnel selected first of all a nucleus of well-tried and experienced
men who had served with him before, appointing me as second in command
of the expedition. They included Worsley, Macklin, Hussey, McIlroy,
Kerr, Green and McLeod. Applications for the remaining posts came in
thousands, and many women wrote asking if a job could be found for
them, offering to mend, sew, nurse or cook.
Two other men with previous experience were obtained: Wilkins, who
served with the Canadian Arctic Expedition under Stefansson, and Dell,
who had served with Captain Scott in the _Discovery_, and was thus
known to Sir Ernest Shackleton and myself. Lieut.-Commander Jeffrey,
an officer of the Royal Naval Reserve, who had served with distinction
during the war, was appointed navigating officer for the ship. Major
Carr, who had gained much experience of flying as an officer of the
R.A.F., was appointed in charge of the seaplane.
A geologist was required, the selection falling upon G. V. Douglas, a
graduate of McGill University, whom Sir Ernest had met in Canada.
Mr. Bee Mason was appointed photographer and cinematographer.
Amongst the remainder there was need of a good boy. Sir Ernest
conceived the idea of throwing the post open to a Boy Scout, and
the suggestion was taken up with the greatest enthusiasm by the Boy
Scout organization. The post was advertised in the _Daily Mail_, and
immediately a flood of applications poured in from every part of the
country. These were finally filtered down to the ten most suitable, and
the applicants were instructed to assemble in London, the _Daily Mail_
making the necessary arrangements and defraying the costs. These ten
boys all had excellent records, and Sir Ernest, in finally making his
selection, was so embarrassed in his choice that he selected two. They
were J. W. S. Marr, an Aberdeen boy, and Norman E. Mooney, a native of
the Orkneys.
There remained but three places to fill: C. Smith, an officer of the
R.M.S.P. Company, was appointed second engineer; P.O. Telegraphist
Watts, wireless operator; and Eriksen, a Norwegian by birth, was taken
on as harpoon expert.
Sir Ernest, in order fully to carry out his programme, was anxious to
leave England not later than August 20th, but owing to a general strike
of ships’ joiners, dilatory workmanship and other unavoidable causes,
the sailing was postponed well beyond that date.
At length all was ready; food stores and equipment, which included
not only the highly technical and specialized Antarctic gear, but also
such minute details as pins, needles and pieces of tape, were placed on
board, and the ship was ready for sea.
The new expedition had been organized, equipped and got ready for
departure all within three months. There are few who will realize what
this means. No other man than Sir Ernest would have attempted it, and
no other could have accomplished it successfully. It was, as he often
said himself, only through the staunch support and active co-operation
of Mr. Rowett, who aided and encouraged him throughout this period,
that he was able to leave England that year. Postponement at such
an advanced stage was impossible, and would have meant the total
abandonment of the expedition. We left London finally on September
17th, 1921.