Stukeley and Coker conjecture that this place was the site of a Roman
station; an opinion which is confirmed by a large entrenchment upon
Woodbury Hill, about half a mile north-east of the parish. The area of
this place, which contains about ten acres, is surrounded by triple
ramparts, that in some places are high and deep. On the summit, which
commands a very extensive prospect, a fair is annually holden. This fair
begins on the Nativity of the Virgin, and continues through the five
following days: though of late years it has much decreased; it was once
the most considerable in the west of England. Queen Elfrida, to whom the
manor belonged, is said to have retired to her seat in this place, after
the murder of her son-in-law, Edward the Martyr. King John also appears
to have made it his residence. In the reign of Henry III. the manor was
bestowed on Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester; but, as a consequence
attending his rebellion, it was taken from him, and granted to the
King's brother, Edmund. Edmund gave a moiety of it to the Abbess of
Tarent, who, in the reign of Edward I. claimed for her manor of Bere a
fair, a market, a free-warren, and the whole forest of Bere. Her moiety
of these was granted her. At the dissolution, Henry VIII., for the sum
of L680. 16s. 8d. granted the manor to Robert Turberville, to whose
ancestors the other moiety had belonged for ages. The mansion of the
Turbervilles still remains: it is an ancient irregular structure, built
with stone, and its windows contain various quarterings of the
Turberville family and its alliances. Bere Regis, though it does not
appear ever to have been represented in parliament, was incorporated in
the time of Edward I. Its market is ancient, as appears from King John's
having confirmed it to the inhabitants. The church is a large and
handsome structure, and contains numerous monuments of the Turberville
and other families. The town of Bere Regis has suffered twice by fire:
once in 1634, and again in 1788. After the latter fire the inhabitants
found shelter in the booths erected for the fair. The most distinguished
natives of the place have been James Turberville, Bishop of Exeter, and
John Morton, Archbishop of Canterbury.
_Market_, Wednesday.--_Fair_, September 18.
[Sidenote: The residence of Queen Elfrida.]
Map|Names of Places. |County. |Number of Miles from |
+--+-----------------------+----------+-------------+-------------
9|Bees, St.[A] to & pa|Cumberland|Egremont 3|Whitehaven 4|
24|Beesby pa|Lincoln |Louth 9|Grimsby 9|
24|Beesby in the Marsh, pa|Lincoln |Alford 3|Saltfleet 10|
3|Beeston to|Bedford |Biggleswade 3|Tempsford 3|
+--+-----------------------+----------+-------------+------------+
|Dist.|
Map|Names of Places. |Number of Miles from |Lond.|Population.
+--+-----------------------+------------------------+-----+-----+
9|Bees, St.[A] to & pa|Buttermere 13| 296| 517|
24|Beesby pa|M. Raisin 12| 158| 99|
24|Beesby in the Marsh, pa|Louth 9| 144| 132|
3|Beeston to|Bedford 8| 48| 258|
+--+-----------------------+------------------------+-----+-----+
[A] BEES, (ST.) This ancient village is situated in the Ward of
Allerdale, west by north from Egremont. It is understood to have derived
its name and origin from a religious house, which was founded here about
the year 650, by St. Bega, an Irish nun of great sanctity. On the death
of Bega, a church was erected in honour of her virtues; but both these
establishments having been destroyed by the Danes, William, son of
Ranulph de Meschines, replaced them by a new foundation of Benedictine
monks, and made it a cell to the Abbey of St. Mary at York: in the time
of Henry I. The manor was granted after the dissolution to Sir Thomas
Chaloner, by Edward VI. in the last year of his reign. It next became
the property of a family named Wyberg, from whom, under a fore-closed
mortgage, it passed to an ancestor of the Earl of Lonsdale, about the
year 1663. St. Bees church, which was erected about the time of Henry
I., had the form of a cross, and great part of it is yet standing. The
east-end is unroofed, and in ruins: the nave, however, is fitted up as
the parish church, and the cross aisle is used as a place of sepulchre.
The ancient chancel has narrow lancet windows, ornamented with double
mouldings, and pilasters, with rich capitals. At the east end are
niches, of a singular form, with pointed arches, supported on well
proportioned pillars, having capitals adorned with rich engravings. The
whole edifice is of red free-stone. A free grammar school was founded in
the village of St. Bees by Archbishop Girandal, under a charter from
Queen Elizabeth, towards the close of the sixteenth century. This
prelate was born in the neighbouring village of Helsingham, in the year
1519. He was educated at Cambridge, where he obtained a fellowship at
Pembroke Hall. Being attached to the principles of the Reformation,
Bishop Ridley made him his chaplain, and precentor of St. Pauls. He was
also appointed chaplain to the King, and prebendary of Westminster; but
on the accession of Mary he retired to Germany, and settled at
Strasburgh. When Elizabeth ascended the throne he returned home, and was
employed in revising the Litany. In 1559 he was chosen master of
Pembroke Hall, and the same year preferred to the see of London, from
whence, in 1570 he was translated to York, and in 1575 to Canterbury.
Two years afterwards he was suspended from his archiepiscopal functions,
for refusing to obey the Queen's order to suppress prophecyings, or the
associations of the clergy to expound the Scriptures. His sequestration
was taken off, though he never completely recovered the royal favour. He
died at Croydon, 1583. He contributed to Fox's acts and monuments. James
I. afterwards increased the endowments, which have been since augmented
by divers benefactors. Several scholars of great eminence have received
the rudiments of education in this seminary. It is remarkable, however,
that, till a few years ago, the school had not undergone any material
change since its foundation. Occasional repairs were indeed found
absolutely necessary for the support of the buildings, but no
improvement seems ever to have been attempted. Through the munificence
of the Earl of Lonsdale this long respected seminary has been put into
complete order, and made more suitable to the purpose intended by the
pious founder than it had been at any time since its erection. Exclusive
of what has been done at the spacious school-room, the library is
rendered more commodious. The master's house, which adjoins the school,
has been enlarged, some parts of it rebuilt, a good garden well walled
round, and the whole made a very comfortable and eligible residence.
[Sidenote: Early history.]
[Sidenote: Archbishop Girandal.]
Map|Names of Places. |County. |Number of Miles from
+--+----------------------+----------+-------------+-------------
7|Beeston[A] to|Chester |Nantwich 7|Tarporley 2|
27|Beeston pa|Norfolk |Swaffham 7|E. Dereham 6|
30|Beeston pa|Nottingham|Nottingham 4|Chilwell 1|
45|Beeston chap|W.R. York |Leeds 2|Birstall 5|
27|Beeston, St. Andrew p|Norfolk |Norwich 4|Worstead 9|
27|Beeston, St. Lawren. p|Norfolk |Coltishall 4| ... 3|
27|Beeston Regis pa|Norfolk |Cromer 4|Holt 7|
40|Beethom[B] pa & to|Westmorlnd|Burton 4|Millthorpe 1|
27|Beetley pa|Norfolk |E. Dereham 4|Foulsham 6|
31|Begbrook pa|Oxford |Woodstock 3|Oxford 6|
34|Beggerielge ham|Somerset |Bath 4|Frome 9|
+--+----------------------+----------+-------------+------------+
| |Dist.|
Map|Names of Places. |Number of Miles from |Lond.|Population.
+--+----------------------+------------------------+-----+-------+
7|Beeston[A] to|Whitchurch 14| 171| 434|
27|Beeston pa|Castle Acre 5| 100| 702|
30|Beeston pa|Ashby 16| 124| 2530|
45|Beeston chap|Huddersfield 9| 190| 2128|
27|Beeston, St. Andrew p|Acle 9| 113| 49|
27|Beeston, St. Lawren. p|Norwich 11| 120| 52|
27|Beeston Regis pa|Cley 8| 126| 246|
40|Beethom[B] pa & to|Kendal 10| 252| 1639|
27|Beetley pa|Fakenham 9| 104| 381|
31|Begbrook pa|Islip 5| 60| 102|
34|Beggerielge ham|Beckington 6| 110| ...|
+--+---------------------+-------------------------+-----+-------+
[A] BEESTON. Near this village are the remains of a castle, once deemed
impregnable; it is situated on a sandstone rock, 366 feet in
perpendicular height. So strong was this fortress considered, that it
became a proverb in the neighbourhood to say, "It is as strong as
Beeston Castle." The area contains five acres, and was rendered
unapproachable by means of a very wide ditch. In the reign of Charles I.
it underwent a lengthened siege, or rather blockade, for all
communications were cut off with the neighbourhood for a long term; at
last it was compelled to surrender, and the parliament ordered it to be
dismantled. During the period of the threatened invasion of the French,
in 1803, this castle was fixed upon by the lieutenancy of the county, as
the site for a signal station and beacon. The ancient and craggy walls
are beautifully mantled over with a luxuriant covering of ivy, and the
base of the hill abounds with several varieties of rare plants. The well
of the castle is nearly 300 feet deep, and the peasantry firmly believe
that it contains a vast store of riches, which have been thrown into it
during the civil wars. A mineral spring was discovered here a few years
ago. The inhabitants of Chester consider it a favourite holiday
indulgence to visit this castle in a pleasure excursion; and by
application to an old woman in the village, who may be considered the
female warden of the place, travellers can be conducted to the summit of
the building. The views from the ramparts are beautiful, extending over
the whole Vale Royal of Cheshire, to the estuaries of the rivers Mersey
and Dee: that side of the hill which forms a precipice rises
perpendicularly 160 feet from the base of the elevation, and upon
looking down from the high pinnacle of the castle wall, it is sufficient
to call to remembrance the sublime poetic effusion of our immortal
bard:--
"How fearful
And dizzy 'tis, to cast ones eyes so low,
The crows and choughs, that wing the mid-way air,
Shew scarce as gross as beetles.
I'll look no more,
Lest my brain turn, and the deficient sight,
Topple down headlong."
[Sidenote: Castle on a rock.]
[Sidenote: A favourite place of resort.]
[B] BEETHOM. This mountainous and highly interesting parish is situated
in the Kendal Ward, at the south-western extremity of the county of
Westmoreland, on both sides of estuaries of the river Kent, which is
navigable for small craft as far as the hamlet of Storch, and comprises
the chapelries of Witherslack, and the townships of Beetham, Farleton,
Haverbrack, and Methop, with Ulpha. The parish church is dedicated to
St. Michael, the patron saint of mountainous and hilly parishes: it is a
neat building, situated in a fine vale, or holm ground, commanding the
richest variety of wood, water, and rocky scenery. Here are two fine old
monuments to the memory of Thomas de Beetham and his lady, who lived in
the reign of Richard III. Here was anciently a chapel, dedicated to St.
John, and near it, in a garden, a considerable number of human bones
were dug up; it was situated about forty yards from the present
school-house. Some few years since a mole cast up an amber bead, and
with it an oval piece of silver, about the size of a shilling; it was
perforated through the middle, and on one side was an impression of the
crucifixion, with the letters J.N.R.J.; on the right of which was a
crescent, and on the left a rising sun; at the bottom, the Virgin Mary,
in a weeping attitude: on the reverse, a lamb, with a standard, and St.
Andrews' cross. The parsonage, or rectory-house, which stood on the
north-east corner of the churchyard, was formerly called the college of
St. Mary's. The Hilton family had also a handsome house near this spot,
which was enlarged and improved by George Hilton, an eccentric squire,
and well known character in this neighbourhood about the commencement of
the last century. This George Hilton was a Roman Catholic, and joined
the Scotch rebels in 1715, upon whose defeat he made his escape, but was
pardoned by the act of grace the year following, and afterwards retired
to a house which he built at the south end of Beethom Park. Mr. Hutton,
the historian of this place, says, "that he discovered a diary, in an
old chest, which was kept by this gentleman, taken by himself every
night, but which was afterwards lost. 'On Sunday, (says he in one
place,) I vowed to abstain from three things during the ensuing week
(Lent), viz. women, eating of flesh, and drinking of wine; but, alas!
the frailty of good resolutions. I broke them all! Conversed with a
woman--was tempted to eat the wing of a fowl--and got drunk at
Milnthorp.'" Of this parish the Rev. William Hutton was vicar, who wrote
a folio book of collections for its history, which he deposited in the
vestry for the information of posterity, with blank pages to be filled
up as materials should occur. He was an amiable man, and an
indefatigable antiquarian. The old manor house, called the Hall of
Beethom, was a fine old castellated mansion, but now unfortunately in
ruins. One large apartment in this castle is still called the hall, and
according to the laudable practice of ancient hospitality, was devoted
to the purpose of entertaining the friends and dependants of the family:
and hence came the proverb--
"'Tis merry in the hall When beards wag all."
The remains of a room, formerly used as a chapel, still exist; and the
ruins of this fine mansion are of considerable extent. The ruins of
another hall in this parish are also to be seen in Cappleside Demesne,
consisting of a front and two wings, comprising an extent of 117 feet of
frontage. Also an ancient tower, now in ruins, called Helslack Tower:
and another tower, called Arnside Tower; equally neglected. These towers
seem to have been intended to guard the Bay of Morecambe, as similar
buildings are erected on the opposite side of the river. A grammar
school was founded here in 1663, and rebuilt in 1827. It has an
endowment of about L40. a year, arising out of lands bequeathed for the
instruction of fifty poor boys.
[Sidenote: George Hilton, an eccentric character.]
[Sidenote: The Hall.]
Map|Names of Places.| County. | Number of Miles From |
+--+----------------+----------+---------------+-------------+
57|Begelley pa|Pembroke |Narbeth 4|Tenby 4|
58|Beggars' Bush |Radnor |Knighton 8|Presteign 2|
31|Beggars' Bush |Oxford |Nettlebed 4|Benson 2|
58|Beguildy pa|Radnor |Knighton 6|New Radnor 12|
21|Beigham |Kent p |Lamberhurst 3|Tunb. Wells 3|
10|Beighton pa|Derby |Chesterfield 10|Sheffield 7|
27|Beighton pa|Norfolk |Acle 2|Loddon 6|
36|Beighton pa|Suffolk |Bury 6|Woolpit 2|
46|Beilby to & chap|E.R. York |Pocklington 4|M. Weighton 6|
27|Belaugh pa|Norfolk |Norwich 8|Worstead 5|
9|Belbank to|Cumberland|Brampton 10|Carlisle 15|
+--+----------------+----------+---------------+-------------+
|Dist.|
Map|Names of Places.| Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+----------------+--------------------------+-----+-------+
57|Begelley pa|Pembroke 14| 257| 996|
58|Beggars' Bush |New Radnor 6| 153| |
31|Beggars' Bush |Wallingford 3| 44| |
58|Beguildy pa|Bettws 4| 171| 1043|
21|Beigham |Brenchley 5| 38| |
10|Beighton pa|Eckington 2| 155| 980|
27|Beighton pa|Norwich 9| 118| 262|
36|Beighton pa|Stow Market 8| 71| 238|
46|Beilby to & chap|York 13| 192| 239|
27|Belaugh pa|Coltishall 2| 116| 151|
9|Belbank to|Longtown 13| 321| 485|
+--+----------------+--------------------------+-----+-------+
Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From |
+--+----------------------+----------+------------+-------------+
9|Belbank to|Cumberland|Brampton 7|Carlisle 12|
42|Belbroughton pa|Worcester |Bromsgrove 5|Stourbridge 5|
46|Belby to|E.R. York |Howden 1|South Cave 11|
12|Belchalwell pa|Dorset |Blandford 7|Sturminster 3|
14|Belchamp Oten pa|Essex |Headingham 5|Sudbury 5|
14|Belchamp, St. Pauls p|Essex |... 6|... 6|
14|Belchamp Wallers[A] pa|Essex |... 6|... 3|
24|Belchford pa|Lincoln |Horncastle 5|Louth 8|
29|Belford[B] m.t. & pa|Northumb. |Newcastle 49|Alnwick 5|
30|Belgh ham|Nottingham|Worksop 5|Ollerton 6|
23|Belgrave pa|Leicester |Leicester 2|Loughboro' 9|
29|Bellasis to|Northumb. |Morpeth 5|Newcastle 10|
46|Bellasize to|E.R. York |Howden 5|South Cave 7|
18|Bell Bar |Herts |Barnet 6|Hatfield 3|
24|Belleau[C] pa|Lincoln |Alford 3|Louth 8|
+--+----------------------+----------+------------+-------------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+----------------------+----------+------------+-----+-------+
9|Belbank to|Longtown 9| 318| 127|
42|Belbroughton pa|Kidderminst 7| 121| 1489|
46|Belby to|Hull 23| 181| 44|
12|Belchalwell pa|Shaftesbury 10| 110| 205|
14|Belchamp Oten pa|Clare 4| 53| 397|
14|Belchamp, St. Pauls p| ... 3| 54| 808|
14|Belchamp Wallers[A] pa| ... 5| 53| 670|
24|Belchford pa|Spilsby 10| 141| 490|
29|Belford[B] m.t. & pa|Berwich 15| 322| 2030|
30|Belgh ham|Mansfield 7| 143| |
23|Belgrave pa|Derby 26| 100| 2329|
29|Bellasis to|Blyth 8| 284| |
46|Bellasize to|Blacktoft 3| 185| 189|
18|Bell Bar |Hertford 8| 17| |
24|Belleau[C] pa|Saltfleet 12| 144| 107|
+--+----------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+
[A] BELCHAMP, or Belchamp Wallers, in the hundred of Hinckford, lies
north-east by north from Castle Headingham. The church, dedicated to the
Virgin Mary, is lofty and neat, and contains an orchestra, with a fine
toned organ. Here is a capacious vault which belongs to the Raymond
family; and an elegant marble monument dedicated to them in the chancel.
Mrs. Raymond has established in this village a Sunday school for fifty
children belonging to the poor. Belchamp Hall, in this parish, is the
residence of the Raymond's, one of whose ancestors came into England
with the Conqueror, and whose family have resided in this neighbourhood
upwards of two centuries. The house is a substantial and commodious
building, whose principal or south-eastern front is for the most part
composed of foreign bricks. It is situated on a pleasant lawn, sloping
gradually to a small river, within 200 yards of the front. A spacious
and extensive terrace, skirted with lofty trees, at the end of which is
an ancient building, ornamented with painted glass, lies to the south.
At the other end is a lofty mount, with another ornamental building on
its summit. This mansion contains an interesting collection of pictures
by some of the most esteemed masters; among them are the following:--The
Wise Men's Offering, an altar-piece; Albert Durer. This picture, with a
large gun, some pistols, and powder flasks, inlaid with gold and ivory,
were presented to the Raymonds, by Sir William Harris, a sea-officer,
who took them, with other property, on the defeat of the Spanish Armada,
in 1588. A three-quarter portrait of Sir Hugh Middleton, Bart., in whose
public spirit the New river originated, and another of his wife, are
both by Cornelius Jansen. Goldingham Hall, in the parish of Bulmer,
adjoining Belchamp, was the residence of Sir Hugh.
[Sidenote: Belchamp Hall.]
[B] BELFORD is a little market town pleasantly situated on the side of a
hill about two miles from the river Lear, and being a post-town, and on
the great north road, has several good inns. The buildings in general
are neat, and the church is a handsome structure, erected in 1700. Near
this place on a rising ground, are the ruins of an ancient chapel,
surrounded by several tall oaks; and at a little distance, are the
remains of a Danish camp, apparently of great strength, surrounded by a
deep ditch. The annual races formerly run at Beadnall, now take place at
this town.
_Market_, Tuesday--_Fairs_, Tuesday before Whit-Sunday, and August
23, for black cattle, sheep, and horses. The Edinburgh Mail arrives
7.49 morning; departs 3.36 afternoon.--_Inn_, Blue Bell.
[C] BELLEAU. At this place, which takes it name from the excellent
springs that issue from the chalk hills in the neighbourhood, are the
ruins of what is called the Abbey. These consist of part of a turret,
and two gateways, which convey an idea of its being a place of
considerable importance. The walls are covered with ivy, and overhung
with lofty ash trees. After the civil war, this place was granted to the
eccentric Sir Harry Vane, who used to amuse himself on Sundays in
assembling here his country neighbours, to whom he addressed his pious
discourses. The church of Belleau is said, by Gough, to have been
attached to the neighbouring monastery of Ailby; but neither Tanner nor
the Monasticon mention such a religious house.
[Sidenote: Abbey Ruins.]
Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From |
+--+-----------------------+---------+-------------+--------------+
44|Bellerby chap|N.R. York|Leyburn 1|Richmond 7|
29|Bellingham[A] m.t. & pa|Northumb |Hexham 16|Haltwhistle 17|
29|Bellister to|Northumb | ... 16|Aldstone M. 12|
7|Bell-on-the-Hill |Chesire |Chester 17|Whitchurch 3|
32|Belmsthorpe ham|Rutland |Stamford 3|Ryhall 1|
10|Belper[B] ham|Derby |Derby 8|Wirksworth 7|
29|Belsey to|Northumb |Newcastle 15|Morpeth 10|
18|Belswains ham|Herts |H. Hempsted 2|Watford 7|
36|Belstead pa|Suffolk |Ipswich 3|Hadleigh 8|
11|Belstone pa|Devon |Oakhampton 2|Exeter 21|
24|Beltoft ham|Lincoln |Gainsboro' 13|Burton 10|
23|Belton pa|Leicester|Asbhy 6|Kegworth 5|
+--+-----------------------+---------+-------------+--------------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+-----------------------+-----------------------+-----+--------+
44|Bellerby chap|Middleham 4| 236| 417|
29|Bellingham[A] m.t. & pa|Wark 4| 294| 1460|
29|Bellister to|Haltwhistle 2| 281| 120|
7|Bell-on-the-Hill |Malpas 3| 166| |
32|Belmsthorpe ham|Essendine 2| 92| |
10|Belper[B] ham|Ashbourn 12| 134| 7890|
29|Belsey to|Corbridge 11| 289| 334|
18|Belswains ham|Ivinghoe 12| 22| |
36|Belstead pa|Stratford 7| 66| 248|
11|Belstone pa|Bow 10| 194| 206|
24|Beltoft ham|Crowle 5| 162| |
23|Belton pa|Loughboro 7| 116| 735|
+--+-----------------------+-----------------------+-----+--------+
[A] BELLINGHAM, lies N. N W. from Hexham. It gave name to an ancient
family, who were seated here in 1378. Some ruins of their castle still
remain. The chapel, dedicated to St. Cuthbert, is roofed with stone
arches in rib-work: there are many gravestones in its floor, sculptured
with swords, and other warlike emblems. Nearly opposite, on the south
side of the North Tyne, is Heslieside, the seat of the Charlton family,
since the time of Edward the Sixth. The old mansion-house, built after
the manner of Lowther Hall, in Westmoreland, was burnt down about eighty
years ago, and then rebuilt. The present edifice stands on a gentle
eminence: the grounds are well wooded, and diversified with fine
sheep-walks; and the gardens and fruit walls are very productive. Five
miles above this place is Falstone chapel; and about seven miles further
up is Keelder Castle, formerly the residence of a famous border
chieftain, but at present a shooting-box of the Duke of Northumberland.
The moors here are scattered over with cairns, tumuli, and Druidical
monuments. Of Tarset Hall, about two miles above Heslieside, only some
slight remains are visible. Of Chipchase Castle, the old tower still
remains. Its roof is built on corbels, and it has openings through which
to throw down stones or scalding water upon an enemy. The tattered
fragments of Gothic painting on the walls, are exceedingly curious. Soon
after it came to the family, (its present owners,) the mansion was
thoroughly repaired, and much improved; the chapel on the lawn was
rebuilt, the gardens made, and the grounds covered with extensive
plantations. This delightful residence is surrounded with scenery of the
richest and most enchanting kind. The rooms in it are fitted up in a
splendid style, and ornamented with several excellent paintings. A
bridge was erected over the Burn at the east end of the town in 1826.
_Market_, Tuesday.--_Fair_, Saturday after September 15, for cattle,
sheep, linen and woollen cloth.
[Sidenote: Chipchase Castle.]