having been made collegiate by Bishop Beck, although it is probable
there was some foundation here before the time of that prelate. The
edifice is situated on a rising ground, in a valley near the banks of
the river Gaunless, and has the form of a cross with a tower at the west
end. In the inside is a curious wooden figure, said to be an effigy of
one of the family of Polland, which represents a knight sitting
cross-legged and dressed in a coat of mail, with his hands raised and
his feet resting on a lion.
[Sidenote: Curious effigy.]
[B] AUDLEY END is principally celebrated for its vicinity to Audley
House, which was sold by the third Earl of Suffolk, to Charles II., for
L50,000., the king, however, left a great part of the sum on mortgage.
The present mansion, though a large and magnificent structure, consists
only of a small part of the original building, owing to its curtailment
at various times. When in its perfect state, it was esteemed one of the
most splendid and capacious mansions in the country; and, if not
superior, was nearly equal to the palaces of Hampton Court, Nonsuch, and
Richmond. At the time when it was first built, large, rather than
comfortable or handsome houses were fashionable. Influenced by these
sentiments, Thomas Howard, the first Earl of Suffolk, (as Walpole
observes,) determined to have "an immense pile of building," and
L190,000. was expended upon its erection. It is said that, when the
house was finished, King James was invited to see it. Having surveyed
the structure with great astonishment, the earl asked him "how he liked
it?" "Very well," replied James, "but troth man," continued he
sarcastically, "it is too much for a king, but it may do for a Lord High
Treasurer." An elegant domestic chapel, constructed by the late Lord
Howard, occupies the north west corner of the house. It is fitted up
with clustered columns, pointed arches, and fan like tracery; and, in
imitation of a cathedral, it has a nave, side-aisles and transepts. The
windows are filled with painted glass, by Pickett of York, who executed
them in 1771, from Biaggio Rebecca's designs.
_Fair_, August 5, for cheese.
[Sidenote: Anecdote of James I.]
Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From |
+--+-----------------------+----------+------------+--------------+
35|Audley to & pa|Stafford |Newcastle 4|Leek 14|
22|Aughton chap|Lancaster |Lancaster 7|K. Lonsdale 8|
22|Aughton pa|Lancaster |Ormskirk 2|Liverpool 10|
46|Aughton[A] to & pa|E.R. York |Howden 7|Selby 7|
45|Aughton to|W.R. York |Rotherham 5|Sheffield 7|
24|Aukborough[B] pa|Lincoln |Barton 10|Burton 3|
30|Aukley to|Nottingham|Bawtry 5|Gainsboro' 13|
10|Ault-Hucknall pa|Derby |Mansfield 6|Chesterfield 7|
24|Aunsby pa|Lincoln |Folkingham 6|Sleaford 6|
15|Aust, or Aust-Clive[C]}| | | |
| ti. & chap}|Gloucester|Thornbury 4|Bristol 11|
+--+-----------------------+----------+------------+--------------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+-----------------------+-----------------------+-----+--------+
35|Audley to & pa|Congleton 9| 154| 3617|
22|Aughton chap|Burton 7| 217| 199|
22|Aughton pa|Prescott 10| 208| 1462|
46|Aughton[A] to & pa|York 11| 189| 665|
45|Aughton to|Tickhill 11| 156| |
24|Aukborough[B] pa|Howden 10| 172| 467|
30|Aukley to|Doncaster 6| 158| 297|
10|Ault-Hucknall pa|Bolsover 4| 144| 618|
24|Aunsby pa|Grantham 9| 112| 117|
15|Aust, or Aust-Clive[C]}| | | |
| ti. & chap}|Chepstow 5| 123| 203|
+--+-----------------------+-----------------------+-----+--------+
[A] AUGHTON. This village is chiefly distinguished for having been the
seat of an ancient and respectable family long since extinct, or
dispersed. The Askes, who succeeded the family of Hai, resided here from
about the year 1365, till the reign of Charles I., when the head of the
family was one of the judges of that unfortunate monarch. Of this
family, also, was Sir Robert Aske, a man of daring and enthusiastic
courage, possessing considerable talents, who headed the insurrection
called "the Pilgrimage of Grace," in the days of Henry VIII. Of the
family seat, nothing remains but the site, marked by several moats.
[Sidenote: Once the seat of Sir Robert Aske.]
[B] AUKBOROUGH. Dr. Stukely having discovered a Roman castrum and a
vicinal road here, supposed it to be the Aquis of Ravennas. The Roman
station is square, each side 300 feet; the entrance is at the north, and
the west side faces the steep cliff that over-hangs the Trent. The
situation of this castle at the north-west angle of Lincolnshire,
renders it a kind of watch tower over Nottingham and Yorkshire, which it
surveys. The camp is now called "Countess Close," and tradition speaks
of a Countess of Warwick having resided here. The vallum and ditch are
nearly entire; a square plat called the "Oreen," is supposed to have
been appropriated for the soldiers when on duty. Within this is a round
walk into a labyrinth, called Julian's Bower; these bowers are usually
found in the neighbourhood of Roman towns, and are objects of great
curiosity to uninformed people. Dr. Stukeley is of opinion that they
were the arena of some of their ancient games, brought into Italy from
Troy, and that they derived their name from "borough," any work
consisting of ramparts of earth, and not from "bower" an arbour. The
views in this neighbourhood are very beautiful; the winding Trent with
its rich level plains of meadow, all alive with herds of cattle; the
cliff, commanding a noble view of the three rivers; the hanging woods
and ornamented walks, all form a great contrast to what Lincolnshire is
often represented by those who have visited only the fenny parts of this
fertile county.
[Sidenote: Julian's bower.]
[C] AUST, or AUST CLIVE. Here is a celebrated ferry over the Severn into
South Wales. The Propraetor, Ostorius Scapula, was accustomed to ferry
his legions over near this place. In the time of Edward the Elder, who
was lying here with his army, Llewellyn, Prince of Wales, was stationed
at Beachley, on the opposite bank. Llewellyn, who was required to pay
homage to the English Sovereign, refused to cross the passage; but
Edward immediately crossing in a boat, was seen, as he approached the
shore by Llewellyn, who, overcome by the condescension, rushed into the
water, and taking the monarch upon his shoulders, carried him to land,
and did him homage for the principality. The Severn is here nearly two
miles across.
[Sidenote: Celebrated passage into South Wales.]
Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From |
+--+----------------------+----------+-----------+-------------+
8|Austell, or St. }| | | |
| Austle[A] m.t. & pa}|Cornwall |Truro 14|Lostwithiel 9|
45|Austerfield to & chap|W.R. York |Bawtry 2|Thorne 11|
7|Austerson to|Chester |Northwich 4|Frodsham 6|
+--+----------------------+----------+-----------+-------------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+----------------------+----------------------+-----+-------+
8|Austell, or St. }| | | |
| Austle[A] m.t. & pa}|Grampound 6| 243| 8758|
45|Austerfield to & chap|Doncaster 9| 155| 280|
7|Austerson to|Tarporley 10| 177| 69|
+--+----------------------+----------------------+-----+-------+
[A] ST. AUSTELL is a considerable market town, which belongs to the
north-eastern division of the county, and is one of the polling places.
The petty sessions of the hundred of Powder are held here. Considerable
quantities of corn and other articles are brought to the market. The
town is seated on the eastern side of a hill which slopes gradually to a
rivulet which runs along a narrow valley; this stream, and the
inequality of the ground, have been rendered eminently useful to the
manufactories of the neighbourhood. The water which has been conducted
round the side of the hills, in its course impels the machinery of
several stamping-mills, which have been erected on different levels. It
is also employed to cleanse and separate the tin from the pounded mass.
Through its vicinity to the great tin mine of Polgooth, St. Austell has
within the last sixty or seventy years, considerably increased in the
number of its houses and inhabitants. The holding of the Blackmore Court
here, which is the most considerable of the stannary courts, or courts
relating to the tin works, have also contributed to augment its
prosperity. The old town, or rather village, was at some little distance
to the east, and its site is still marked by a few cottages; the present
town is the regular thoroughfare for travellers from Plymouth to
Falmouth; the streets are very narrow, and not having any pavement for
foot passengers are somewhat unsafe. The only blowing houses in the
county are at the east end of this town; they are three in number, and
very spacious; the old smelting houses are supplied with coals, and are
reverberatory; but in these blowing houses the fire is of charcoal, and
ignited by air impelled through tubes by cylinders instead of bellows;
this mode of fluxing the ore is considered by the workmen far preferable
to the other. The inhabitants of this town, from its proximity to the
sea, are principally employed in the pilchard fishery and in mining;
there is however a small manufactory of serges. The parish church is a
fine old fabric, consisting of three aisles; the tower and some other
parts of the structure are fancifully ornamented; various carvings,
monstrous heads, angels, and other figures appear on the cornices. From
the repetition of the shovel, pick, hammers, and other tools, it seems
probable that the miners were the principle contributors towards the
expences of the building. In the year 1774, as some tinners were
searching for tin in a stream work near the town, about seventeen feet
under the surface of the ground, they discovered a silver cup, which is
now used for wine at the Communion table, in which were several ancient
pieces of gold and silver ornaments; they consisted of bracelets, rings,
and buckles, evidently for a person of high rank, with many of the most
curious Saxon coins ever discovered at one time. All these articles fell
out on moving the ground, and some were probably lost in shovelling out
the rubbish; those which were picked up were dispersed about the
country, and many of them broken. The celebrated Pentuan stone quarry,
from which the materials of many churches and family seats have been
taken, is in this parish. Polgooth mine (before mentioned) was
considered the richest ever worked in England, and is situated about two
miles south-west of the town. The surrounding country appears for many
miles bleak, desolate, and barren, yet its bowels contain vast
treasures; though, as a talented author has observed, "like the shabby
mien of a miser, its aspect does not correspond with its hoards." The
shafts by which the miners descend, and through which the ore is raised
to the surface, are scattered over a considerable extent of sterile
ground, whose dreary appearance, and the sallow countenances of the
miners, concur to excite ideas of gloom, apprehension, and melancholy.
The number of shafts is not less than fifty, from twenty to thirty of
which are constantly in use. When a stranger is induced to descend, he
is previously accoutred in a flannel shirt and trowsers, a close cap, an
old hat to shelter his face from droppings, and a thick pair of shoes. A
lighted candle is put into one hand, and a spare one suspended to a
button of his jacket. Every part of the ordinary clothing is laid aside,
and the flannel dress worn close to the skin, in order to absorb the
profuse perspiration which the closeness of the mine or the labour of
mounting the ladders may occasion.
_Market_, Friday.--_Fairs_, Whit Thursday, and Nov. 30, for oxen,
sheep, and cloth.--_Mail_ arrives 12.35 afternoon; departs 10.27.
morning.
[Sidenote: Blackmore Court held here.]
[Sidenote: Silver cup found 17 ft. under ground.]
Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From |
+--+-----------------------+----------+--------------+-------------+
45|Austhorpe[A] to|W.R. York |Leeds 4|Wetherby 10|
9|Austhwaite ham|Cumberland|Ravenglass 11|Ulverston 10|
45|Austonley to|W.R. York |Huddersfield 8|Barnsley 9|
39|Austrey pa|Warwick |Tamworth 6|Atherstone 7|
45|Austwick to|W.R. York |Settle 5|Ingleton 9|
24|Authorpe pa|Lincoln |Alford 4|Louth 7|
41|Avebury, or Abury[B] pa|Wilts |Marlborough 7|Swindon 11|
14|Aveley pa|Essex |Purfleet 2|G. Thurrock 4|
17|Avenbury pa|Hereford |Bromyard 2|Ledbury 13|
15|Avening pa|Gloucester|Tetbury 4|M. Hampton 5|
30|Averham[C] pa|Nottingham|Newark 3|Southwell 5|
11|Aveton-Gifford pa|Devon |Modbury 3|Dartmouth 13|
+--+-----------------------+----------+--------------+-------------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+-----------------------+-------------------------+-------------+
45|Austhorpe[A] to|Abberford 5| 189| 150|
9|Austhwaite ham|Bootle 7| 283| 101|
45|Austonley to|Wakefield 11| 181| 1420|
39|Austrey pa|Orton 2| 112| 540|
45|Austwick to|Hawes 20| 241| 614|
24|Authorpe pa|Horncastle 13| 144| 121|
41|Avebury, or Abury[B] pa|Calne 6| 82| 747|
14|Aveley pa|Wennington 4| 21| 758|
17|Avenbury pa|Hereford 15| 125| 314|
15|Avening pa|Horseley 3| 99| 2396|
30|Averham[C] pa|Tuxford 13| 127| 182|
11|Aveton-Gifford pa|Kingsbridge 5| 208| 939|
+--+-----------------------+-------------------------+-------------+
[A] AUSTHORPE. This township gave birth to the celebrated civil engineer
John Smeaton, distinguished as the architect of Eddystone Light-house,
and, as the conductor of various other important undertakings. He was
the son of an attorney, who, observing that he had a strong taste for
mechanics, wisely allowed him to follow the impulse of his genius, and
become a mathematical instrument maker. He commenced business in that
capacity, in Holborn, London, in 1750. His great undertaking--the
erection of the light-house on the Eddystone rock, was accomplished in
the year 1759, and it was executed in such a manner as almost to bid
defiance to the power of time or accident. His death took place in his
native village, September 8, 1792.--See Eddystone Light-house.
[Sidenote: Birth-place of Smeaton the architect.]
[B] AVEBURY or ABURY, is situated within the very area of a British
temple, and claims the particular attention of the topographer and
antiquary. The enclosure, which is formed by a wide and deep ditch, and
a lofty external vallum, contains many large stones, some of which are
erect, and the others lying on the ground. Southward of this place, at
some distance, are other large stones, erect or prostrate; and,
westward, are two others, erect. Several walls and houses of the village
are constructed with broken masses of these ponderous monuments; yet
enough remains to excite curiosity and prompt research. The following is
a description of this great temple, in its original state:--Immediately
within the ditch, and encompassing the whole area, was a continued
series of large upright stones, consisting of one hundred in number;
these stones were placed at the distance of twenty-seven feet from each
other, and usually measured from fifteen to seventeen feet in height,
and about forty feet in circumference. Within the area of this circle,
the diameter of which was about 1400 feet, were two double circles; the
exterior circles were about 466 feet in diameter, and formed by thirty
stones of similar dimensions equally distant from each other, as in the
large enclosing circle. Of these singular stones there are but few
remaining; but from the extraordinary dimension of these relics of
antiquity, the traveller may judge for himself the correctness of our
notice.
_Mail_ arrives at Beckhampton Inn, (1 mile distant,) at 5.20 morning;
departs 9.45 night.
[Sidenote: A British temple formed of enormous stones.]
[C] AVERHAM. This place is principally remarkable for a monument
contained in the church erected to the memory of Sir William Sutton,
once lord of the manor, on which it is quaintly recorded that he had
sixteen children, and an equal number of each sex; of whom the one half
"Ushered to heaven their father, and the other
Remained behind him to attend their mother."
| | |
Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From |
+--+------------------------+----------+-------------+--------------+
4|Avington[A] pa|Berks |Hungerford 3|Newbury 6|
18|Avington[B] pa|Hants |Winchester 5|Alresford 4|
41|Avon chap|Wilts |Chippenham 3|Malmsbury 9|
39|Avon Dassett pa|Warwick |Banbury 6|Kineton 6|
11|Awliscombe pa|Devon |Honiton 2|Ottery St.M. 6|
16|Awre pa|Gloucester|Blakeney 3|Berkeley 3|
34|Axbridge[C] bo. m.t. & p|Somerset |Wells 10|Chedder 2|
41|Axford ti|Wilts |Marlborough 3|Ramsbury 4|
+--+------------------------+----------+-------------+--------------+
| | |Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+------------------------+------------------------+-----+--------+
4|Avington[A] pa|Kintbury 2| 62| 191|
18|Avington[B] pa|Basingstoke 14| 60| 26|
41|Avon chap|Calne 7| 94| 226|
39|Avon Dassett pa|Southam 9| 75| |
11|Awliscombe pa|Collumpton 10| 154| 598|
16|Awre pa|Newnham 4| 124| 1309|
34|Axbridge[C] bo. m.t. & p|Bristol 18| 130| 998|
41|Axford ti|Albourne 5| 73| 450|
+--+------------------------+------------------------+-----+--------+
[A] AVINGTON. Sir Francis Burdett is lord of this manor, and patron of
the rectory. The church, which remains nearly in its original state,
exhibits a curious specimen of Saxon architecture. Within the walls it
measures 75 feet by 14 feet and a half. The nave is separated from the
chancel by an arch richly ornamented by a zig-zag moulding, and a great
variety of grotesque heads springing from two enriched piers; the arch
is formed of the segments of two circles, each having different centres.
In this church there is also a very singular font, of rude workmanship,
surrounded with grotesque figures, executed in bass-relief; that is to
say, sculpture, the figures of which do not stand out from the ground in
their full proportion.
[Sidenote: Sir Francis Burdett.]
[B] AVINGTON, anciently Abyngton, is remarkable for its beautiful park,
the seat of Chandos Grenville, Duke of Buckingham, Lord Lieutenant of
the county of Bucks. The manor was originally a royal demesne, or estate
in lands, and was given by king Edgar to the monastery of St. Swithin at
Winchester, in the year 961; it continued in the possession of that
house until the dissolution of monasteries, when it became the property
of the clerks of Mitcheldever, (a village about five miles distant,)
with whom it remained until the reign of Elizabeth; and then passed to
the Bruges, or Brydges family, afterwards raised to the dukedom of
Chandos. Anna Maria Brudenell, the infamous Countess of Shrewsbury,
married one of this family; her former husband, the Earl of Shrewsbury,
died from a wound received in a duel with the Duke of Buckingham, during
the fighting of which the Countess had the audacity to hold the horse of
her gallant, disguised as a page. Charles the Second was frequently the
guest of this notorious woman at the mansion of Avington, which thus
became the scene of that licentious monarch's pleasures. The mansion,
which is mostly built of brick, has been greatly improved since it came
into the possession of the present proprietor. It is situated in a well
planted and secluded valley, nearly environed with high downs, which
from their bare and open state, form a singular though not unpleasing
contrast with the scenery immediately contiguous to the house. Several
of the apartments are fitted up with great elegance, and enriched by a
choice collection of valuable paintings.
[Sidenote: Seat of the Duke of Buckingham.]
[Sidenote: A seat of one of the paramours of Charles II.]
[C] AXBRIDGE. This town is one of the polling places for the eastern
division of the county of Somerset, but the court for the election of
the Knights of the Shire is at Wells. The borough sent members to
parliament during the reigns of the three first Edwards, but was
afterwards excused on the plea of poverty. It consists chiefly of one
street, winding from east to west, about half a mile in length. The
shambles and market are towards the east end. Although so small, it is
governed by a corporation, consisting of a mayor, bailiff, and ten
aldermen, and twenty-two burgesses, with a recorder, town-clerk, and
other officers. Knit hose are manufactured in this town. The church,
occupying an eminence, near the market-house, is a large and handsome
gothic structure, in the form of a cross. The cloth of the communion
table is elegantly wrought in silk, by Mrs. Abigail, who employed seven
years in completing it. This lady, and several of her family, have
monuments in the church.
_Market_, Saturday.--_Fairs_, Feb 23, and March 25, for cattle,
sheep, cheese, and toys.--_Mail_ arrives 2.0 afternoon; departs 11.0
morning.
[Sidenote: A borough excused on a plea of poverty.]
Map|Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From |
+--+-----------------+----------+---------------+------------+
11|Axminster[A] m.t.|Devon |Bridport 12|Honiton 10|
11|Axmouth pa|Devon |Colyton 3|Sidmouth 9|
13|Aycliffe-Great} |Durham |Darlington 5|Sedgfield 7|
| to & p} | | | |
29|Aydon to|Northumb |Hexham 6|Corbridge 2|
29|Aydon-Castle to|Northumb | 6| 2|
15|Aylburton chap|Gloucester|Blakeney 5|Coleford 7|
11|Aylesbear to& pa|Devon |Ottery, St.M. 5|Exeter 10|
5|Aylesbury[B] bo.}|Bucks |Tring 7|Winslow 11|
| m.t. & pa}| | | |
+--+-----------------+----------+---------------+------------+
|Dist.|
Map|Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+-----------------+--------------------------+-----+------+
11|Axminster[A] m.t.|Lyme Regis 6| 147| 2719|
11|Axmouth pa| " " 6| 153| 646|
13|Aycliffe-Great} |Durham 13| 246| 1564|
| to & p} | | | |
29|Aydon to|Newcastle 15| 277| 99|
29|Aydon-Castle to| 15| 277| 29|
15|Aylburton chap|Chepstow 8| 120| 388|
11|Aylesbear to & pa|Sidmouth 8| 166| 1025|
5|Aylesbury[B] bo.}|Wendover 5| 38| 4907|
| m.t. & pa}| | | |
+--+-----------------+--------------------------+-----+------+
[A] AXMINSTER is very irregularly built, and the houses are inelegant,
but the air of the town is reckoned highly salubrious. The petty
sessions of the hundred of Axminster are held here. The lower orders are
mostly employed in manufacturing carpets, leather breeches, gloves, &c.
The manner of weaving carpets here is different from that pursued at
most other places; the carpets being woven in the piece, and several
hands employed at the same loom. The common patterns are flowers, roses,
&c., though the Turkey and Persian carpets have been imitated with
success. In many large pieces Roman tesselated pavements have been
copied, which have produced a very rich effect. The tunnel between
Charmouth and was opened in the month of January, 1832. This improvement
is substantially constructed with an elliptic arch, capable of allowing
two stage waggons of the largest size to pass on it, and is rather more
than seventy yards in length. By the completion of this tunnel the
longest and steepest hill between London and Exeter is avoided. A
gentleman who visited the tunnel during the height of the ensuing
summer, remarked the astonishing coolness which he felt within this
hill's enclosed semi-cylinder; no sooner, however, had he left it, than
he fainted from the difference of temperature between this subterraneous
passage and that of the open air.
_Market_. Saturday--_Fairs_, St. Marks Day; April 30; Wednesday after
June 24; Wednesday after Oct 10.--_Mail_ arrives 1.20 afternoon;
departs 12.51 afternoon.
[Sidenote: Trade.]
[Sidenote: A remarkable tunnel through a lofty hill.]