conjectures have been entertained. On account of the bricks inserted in
the walls of the keep, it has been attributed to the Romans; but such a
proof is not allowed by the best antiquaries. Its pretensions to the era
of the Saxon kings are more explicit. The more ancient parts are the
keep or citadel, and the towers which flank the gateway, and connect the
whole by means of a sally port. The keep stands upon an artificial
mound, the height of which, from the fosse, is one hundred and ten feet
on one side, and eighty on the other. Of its external wall, the height
is thirty feet, supported by projecting ribs or buttresses. It is eight
feet thick, with a wall on the inside, guarded by a parapet as many feet
high. The diameter of the room which is faced with Norman or Caen stone,
is sixty-seven feet by fifty-nine. There are also Roman bricks placed in
the herring-bone fashion, which is observable in most Saxon buildings.
In the centre is a subterraneous room and passage; and in a tower
attached to the keep, is a well three hundred feet deep. The approach is
by a time-worn staircase, and over a narrow pass, commanding the
entrance to the building, which bears the marks of a portcullis. The
more ancient one towards the east still retains a very rich Saxon
door-case. In the tower above the present entrance, was a small chapel
or oratory, dedicated to St. George. The tower and gateway facing the
base court of the castle are apparently co-temporary with the keep. The
other towers are built with flint. The dungeons are on the right and
left of the gateway. They consist of eight wards, protected by a
draw-bridge from the castle moat. The lower wards are very deep, and
partly filled up with rubbish. The foundation walls of these dungeons
are not known, although efforts have been employed to discover the
length and depth of these frightful abodes. The Empress Maud's
apartments are in the tower, above the old gateway. They consist of
three bed-rooms. The Saxon keep may justly be termed the ivy-mantled
tower, for the walls are literally covered with its leaves. The late
Duke of Norfolk was very partial to this retired spot. Here are several
remarkably curious owls, elegant, and extremely large; some of them
measuring across the wings, from eight to ten feet. Their plumage is
particularly beautiful, and their eyes brilliant. The late duke
purchased them from North America. There are many traces of ancient
remains about the keep or tower. The spot where the boilers stood, for
the purpose of melting the lead to pour down upon the besiegers, and
those used for culinary purposes, are still visible. The marks of cannon
balls discharged against the tower during the siege of the parliamentary
forces, are observable in many places. The ground plan of the present
castle nearly resembles that of Windsor Castle, in the exact proportion
of nine to fourteen. When the late Duke of Norfolk took possession, the
castle was little better than a heap of ruins, but his Grace has
restored it to its original magnificence. The building is of free-stone,
from the quarries in Yorkshire; and those of a brown cast were carefully
selected, in order that they might assimilate in colour with the old
remains. The new walls have risen upon the ancient model, and correspond
with the old ones in solidity of fabric, as well as dignity of ornament.
An entire new front of massy stone, which differs materially from the
others, particularly in exhibiting the insignia of the Howards, mixed
with those of their predecessors, and two colossal figures of liberty
and hospitality, ornament the grand entrance. In raising this front, the
late duke had the opportunity of enlarging the mansion, and gaining the
space now occupied on the basement story, by a long range of servants'
offices, including a new kitchen, with two fire places, bake-house,
scullery, the steward's and housekeeper's rooms, &c. The cellars are of
immense length. The duke weekly employed from 100 to 200 labourers,
mechanics, and artists, in the improvement and decorations of this noble
edifice, for upwards of twenty-five years. The arrangements were formed
entirely from his own ideas, and in the progress of the plan, he was
exclusively his own architect. On the west wing is a beautiful
sculptured basso relievo historical representation of King Alfred
receiving the report of the jury, as established in his reign. The
costume and draperies are finely carved in stone. The interior of the
castle is fitted up with great taste and effect. The richest mahogany
has been used in almost every decoration. The walls being more than six
feet thick, form a kind of frame for each window, which is five feet
deep on the inside, and the whole of this spacious case is lined with
mahogany. The window frames which hold the magnificent plate glass
panes, three feet each in height, are of the same material; and the
solid mahogany doors are held in cases of the thickness of the inner
walls, perhaps, four feet deep, all lined with pannels of the richest
grain.
[Sidenote: The great antiquity of the castle.]
[Sidenote: The castle dungeons of remarkable depth.]
[Sidenote: Remarkable owls]
[Sidenote: The late Duke of Norfolk restored the castle to its ancient
magnificence.]
[Sidenote: Employed from 100 to 200 labourers for 25 years.]
In the Barons room the following inscription appears:--
"CHARLES HOWARD, DUKE OF NORFOLK,
EARL OF ARUNDEL,
in the year of Christ, 1806,
in the 60th year of his age,
dedicated this stone
To Liberty, asserted by the Barons,
in the reign of John."
On the 15th of June, 1815, a great festival took place for celebrating
the centenary of the signing of Magna Charta. There was a splendid
assemblage of the nobility and persons of distinction. Complete suits of
ancient armour, with swords and spears, forged in ancient times, and for
very different purposes, were either suspended from, or hung around the
walls; and every adventitious aid was adopted to give state and majesty
to this celebration of the magnanimous conduct of the Barons of England.
Nearly three hundred distinguished guests sat down. The head of the
table was ornamented with a noble baron of beef, surmounted by the ducal
coronet, and the banners of the illustrious house of Norfolk.
[Sidenote: Festival to celebrate the signing of Magna Charter held
here.]
The castle occupies a mile in circumference, and the beautiful domains
which surround this magnificent structure, are more than seven miles and
a half in circumference, enclosed with a strong fence railing. The
grounds are well laid out, in gardens, shrubberies, and plantations.
There are three agreeable towers in the park; High Horn, commanding an
extensive prospect; and Mount Pleasant, covered with ivy, overlooking
the beautiful vale of Sussex. The late duke built another tower, facing
the road to Petworth, called the White Ways. The castle is open to the
inspection of visitors on the first Sunday in the month after divine
service, and on every Monday in the year.
[Sidenote: The times when the castle may be inspected by visitors.]
When the buildings on the Norfolk estate adjoining the Strand, London,
were erected, it was legally settled, that the whole of the rents,
should be expended for the sole purpose of keeping up Arundel Castle;
this has always been acted upon. The original rents having long since
fallen in--and the increased income that has been produced by that
cause, joined to the general increase of rents in that quarter, has been
so great, that it now requires very great ingenuity to contrive the
means of laying out all that money according to the directions of the
original entail; and this is the real cause of the magnificent style in
which that ancient baronial castle is still supported. The estate thus
mentioned, comprises the whole of Surrey-street, Arundel-street,
Howard-street, and Norfolk-street, which are the entire property of the
Norfolk family.
_Markets_, Wednesday and Saturday.--_Mail_ arrives 7.40. A.M.,
departs 5.30. P.M.--_Fairs_, May 14, cattle and hogs; August 21,
hogs, cattle, and sheep; September 25, cattle and sheep; December 17,
cattle and pedlary; second Tuesday in every month for
cattle.--_Bankers_, Henty and Co., draw on Lubbock and Co.; Hopkins
and Co., draw on Williams and Co.--_Inns_, Crown, and Norfolk Arms.
[Sidenote: Estates in London devoted to keep it in repair.]
Map| Names of Places. | County.| Number of Miles From |
+--+-----------------------+--------+-----------+-----------+
40|Asaph, St.[A] city & pa|Denbigh |Holywell 10|Abergeley 7|
40|Asby[B] pa|Westmor |Appleby 5|Orton 5|
39|Ascote ex. pa. ham|Warwick |Southam 2|Warwick 9|
+--+-----------------------+--------+-----------+-----------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From|Lond.|Population.
+--+-----------------------+--------------------+-----+-----+
40|Asaph, St.[A] city & pa|Holyhead 57| 208| 3144|
40|Asby[B] pa|Brough 9| 273| 436|
39|Ascote ex. pa. ham|Kineton 8| 82| 12|
+--+-----------------------+--------------------+-----+-----+
[A] ST. ASAPH. This city is seated on the decline of a pleasant
eminence, between the rivers Clwyd and Elwy, which renders the first
appearance striking, though it contains little more than one street. The
church stands in the lower part of the town, and serves for the use of
the parishioners, the cathedral not being used for parochial purposes;
the latter was built about the close of the fifteenth century; it
consists of a choir, a nave, two aisles, and a transept. During the
protectorship of Cromwell the palace and cathedral were much injured by
the post-master, who made great havoc in the choir of the cathedral,
using the font as a trough for watering his horses; and by way of
venting his spleen on the clergy, tied up calves in the bishop's throne.
Several very eminent men have been bishops of St. Asaph, including Dr.
Isaac Barrow, William Beveridge, and Samuel Horsley, the former of whom
founded an alms-house for eight poor widows. Bishop Hughes, who died
1600, founded, and endowed the Free Grammar School. The neighbourhood
possesses several land proprietors who have given great encouragement to
agriculture, amongst whom may be included Dean Shipley, who stimulated
the practical farmers to emulation, by premiums, and other
encouragement. To this spirited dignitary, so well known in the history
of the law of libel, a very handsome monument has been erected in the
cathedral.
_Market_ Saturday.--_Fairs_, Easter Tuesday, July 15, October 16,
December 26, for cattle.--_Inn_, White Lion.
[Sidenote: The font of the cathedral used for watering horses.]
[B] ASBY, once called Askeby. This parish consists of four manors. The
church is ancient, its beauty has been much disfigured by repairs; it
has even been diminished in size, as appears by an arch now filled up in
the north wall. At Sayle Bottom are several tumuli--some circular,
others rectangular. At Garthorne Hall, a tumulus was found to contain
human bones and a large sword, and another containing three entire
skulls. Pate Hole, in this parish, is a remarkable cavern in a limestone
rock, consisting of two galleries, one 430 yards long, towards the north
east, the other, 230 yards long, making a large sweep from the extremity
of the first to its middle; together, they resemble the letter P. At the
end of the first gallery is a lofty dome, and a pool 20 yards long, 6
broad, and 3 deep; and in the second are two perpendicular chasms of
unknown extent, from whence proceed in rainy seasons torrents of water,
which fill the cavern and discharge themselves from its entrance. The
noise of these operations resemble at first gentle music, but increases
to the pitch of the loudest. In one part is a petrifying spring, which
always stands at one temperature.
[Sidenote: Pate Hole, an immense cavern.]
Map| Names of Places.|County.| Number of Miles From |
+--+-----------------+-------+------------+--------------+
39|Ascott ham|Warwick|Shipston 7|L. Compton 3|
31|Ascott ham & chap|Oxford |Bensington 5|Dorchester 4|
39|Ascott pa|Oxford | ... 5| ... 4|
34|Asgarby pa|Lincoln|Sleaford 3|Tattershall 11|
24|Asgarby pa|Lincoln|Spilsby 6|Horncastle 6|
10|Ash ham|Derby |Derby 7|Uttoxeter 11|
21|Ash pa|Kent |Wingham 3|Sandwich 3|
21|Ash pa|Kent |Farmingham 4|Gravesend 7|
37|Ash pa|Surrey |Farnham 4|Bagshot 9|
16|Ash, or Ashe pa|Hants |Whitchurch 6|Basingstoke 7|
11|Ashe[A] ham|Devon |Colyton 2|Lyme 4|
+--+-----------------+-------+------------+--------------+
|Dist. |
Map| Names of Places.|Number of Miles From|Lond. |Population.
+--+-----------------+--------------------+--------+------+
39|Ascott ham|Kineton 12| 78| ...|
31|Ascott ham & chap|Oxford 10| 61| 97|
39|Ascott pa|Oxford 10| 51| 419|
34|Asgarby pa|Falkingham 8| 114| 146|
24|Asgarby pa|Tattershall 10| 138| 57|
10|Ash ham|Burton-on-T. 7| 136| 50|
21|Ash pa|Ramsgate 8| 63| 2416|
21|Ash pa|Wrotham 4| 20| 586|
37|Ash pa|Godalming 8| 35| 2001|
16|Ash, or Ashe pa|Kingsclere 6| 53| 114|
11|Ashe[A] ham|Axminster 4| 148| ...|
+--+-----------------+--------------------+--------+------+
[A] ASHE is situated in Musbury parish, which lies in the hundred of
Axminster, two miles east by north from Colyton. It is the birth place
of the celebrated John Churchill, Duke of Marlborough: this
distinguished person was born here in the year 1650. He received only an
indifferent education, for his father took him to court at the age of
twelve years, when he became page, as his sister, Arabella, became
mistress to the Duke of York. In 1660, he obtained a pair of colours in
the Guards. His first service was at the siege of Tangier, and, on his
return from thence, he became the favourite of the Duchess of Cleveland,
who gave him L5,000 with which he purchased an annuity for life. He
afterwards served under the great Turenne, who was so pleased with his
person and bravery as to call him the handsome Englishman. At the siege
of Maestricht he so distinguished himself, that the King of France
publicly thanked him. On his return he was made lieutenant-colonel,
gentleman of the bedchamber, and master of the robes to the Duke of
York, whom he attended to Holland and Scotland; and about this time
married Miss Jennings, maid of honour to the Princess, afterwards Queen
Anne. In 1682, he was shipwrecked with the Duke of York, in their
passage to Scotland, on which occasion his royal highness expressed the
greatest anxiety to save his favourite. The same year he was made a
peer, by the title of Baron Eymouth, in Scotland; and when James came to
the crown, he was sent to France to notify the event. In 1685, he was
created Lord Churchill, of Sandridge. The same year he suppressed
Monmouth's rebellion, and took him prisoner. He continued to serve James
with great fidelity, till the arrival of the Prince of Orange, and then
left him, for which he has been stigmatized, and perhaps not unjustly,
with base ingratitude. His own apology was a regard for the religion and
constitution of his country. He was created Earl of Marlborough by King
William in 1689, and appointed commander of the English army in the low
countries. He next served in Ireland, and reduced Cork, with other
strong places. In 1692, he was suddenly dismissed from his employments,
and committed to the Tower: he was, however, very soon released, but the
cause of this disgrace was never clearly explained. After the death of
Queen Mary he was restored to favour; and at the close of that reign he
had the command of the English forces in Holland, and the States chose
him captain-general of their forces. On the commencement of the reign of
Anne, he recommended a war with France, and his advice was adopted. In
the first campaign of 1702, he took a number of strong towns,
particularly Liege. In the following year he was created a Duke. In
1704, he joined Prince Eugene, in conjunction with whom he conquered the
French at Hochstedt, took Marshal Tallard prisoner, and brought him to
England, with 26 other officers of rank, 121 standards, and 179 colours.
He then received the grant of the manor of Woodstock. In 1706, he fought
the famous battle of Ramilies. This battle accelerated the fall of
Louvain, Brussels, and other important places. He arrived in England,
and received fresh honours from the Queen and Parliament. Blenheim house
was ordered to be built, and a pension of L5,000. a year was awarded
him. In 1709, he defeated Marshal Villars at Malplaquet. In the year
1711, he returned to England with additional laurels, but was soon after
dismissed from his employments. To add to this unjust treatment, a
prosecution was commenced against him for applying the public money to
his private purposes. Indignant at such conduct, he went into voluntary
banishment till 1714, when he landed at Dover, amidst the acclamations
of the people. George I. restored him to his military employments, but
he retired from his appointments to Windsor, and died in 1722. His
remains were interred with great pomp in Westminster Abbey. His Duchess
outlived him several years. She was a woman of a strong mind, but
overbearing passions. Her letters have been printed, and display
uncommon sagacity, blended with a great share of vanity. The mansion
house in which the Duke was born, now in a state of ruin, was rebuilt
shortly after the civil wars, by Sir John Drake, whose daughter had
married Sir Winston Churchill.
_Fairs_, April 6, and Oct. 11, for pedlary.
[Sidenote: The birth-place of the celebrated Duke of Marlboro'.]
[Sidenote: He took Monmouth prisoner in the reign of James II.]
[Sidenote: Created a Duke by Queen Anne.]
[Sidenote: Blenheim house built for him.]
[Sidenote: Died in the 8th year of the reign of Geo. I.]
Map| Names of Places. | County.| Number of Miles From |
+--+---------------------+--------+-------------+--------------+
4|Ashamstead chap|Berks |East Ilsley 5|Streatley 4|
31|Ashamstead chap|Oxford |Gt. Marlow 4|H. Wycombe 4|
36|Ash Bocking pa|Suffolk |Needham 6|Ipswich 6|
10|Ashbourn[A] m.t. & pa|Derby |Derby 13|Leek 16|
34|Ashbrittle pa|Somerset|Wellington 6|Wiveliscombe 5|
+--+---------------------+--------+-------------+--------------+
|Dist|
Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond|Population.
+--+---------------------+----------------------+----+---------+
4|Ashamstead chap|Newbury 9| 49| 346|
31|Ashamstead chap|Henley 6| 35| ...|
36|Ash Bocking pa|Woodbridge 8| 75| 234|
10|Ashbourn[A] m.t. & pa|Wirksworth 9| 139| 4756|
34|Ashbrittle pa|Dulverton 10| 254| 635|
+--+---------------------+--------+-------------+----+---------+
[A] ASHBOURN is very pleasantly situated in a rich valley on the eastern
side of the Dove, over which is a stone bridge. It is divided into two
parts by a rivulet, which is called Henmore, the southern part of which
is termed Compton, the ancient Campdene. From the descent of the hill on
the Derby road, the view of the place as it presents itself embosomed
amongst the hills is beautifully picturesque. It is a neat town, but
there is nothing remarkable in its buildings. At the time of the
conquest it was a royal manor, and subsequently became a part of the
Duchy of Lancaster, until it was sold by Charles I. It is supposed that
the church, which is dedicated to St. Oswald, was finished in the
thirteenth century; in it are many monuments to the Cockaines,
Bradburns, and Boothby's, successively possessors of the manors. Sir
Thomas Cockaine and other natives, founded a Free Grammar School, in the
reign of Elizabeth, for children of the town and neighbourhood, and also
a second for the poorer class of children of both sexes. Here are also a
chapel and a neat row of alms-houses, founded in 1800 by a native named
Cooper, who made a fortune in London, for six poor men and women, and
several other hospitals for decayed house-keepers, including one for the
maintenance of four clergymen's widows. A very considerable trade is
carried on here in cheese and malt, many horses and cattle are sold at
its fairs. Much lace is made here, and a great many persons are employed
in the iron and cotton factories in the neighbourhood. The romantic and
beautiful glen of Dovedale is within a short distance. This town is one
of the polling places for the southern division of the county.
_Market_, Saturday.--Mail arrives 11 A.M., departs 2-3/4
P.M.--_Fairs_, first Tuesday in January, and Feb. 13, for horses and
horned cattle, April 3, May 21, and July 5, for horses, horned
cattle, and wool. August 16, October 20, and November 29, for horses,
and horned cattle; the fairs for horses begin two or three days
before the fair-day.--_Inns_, Blackmoor's Head and Green
Man.--_Bankers_, Arkwright and Co.; drawn on Smith, Payne, and Co.
[Sidenote: A royal manor of the Saxon Kings made part of the Duchy of
Lancaster.]
Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From |
+--+------------------+---------+-------------+------------+
38|Ashburnham[A] pa|Sussex |Battle 6|Hailsham 6|
11|Ashburton[B] }|Devon |Exeter 20|Torquay 13|
| bo. m.t. & pa}| | | |
4|Ashbury to & pa|Berks |Lambourn 16|Wantage 10|
11|Ashbury pa|Devon |Hatherleigh 5|Oakhampton 6|
24|Ashby pa|Lincoln |Gt. Grimsby 7|Caistor 9|
24|Ashby pa|Lincoln |Spilsby 2|Burgh 3|
24|Ashby pa|Lincoln |Sleaford 6|Lincoln 13|
24|Ashby to|Lincoln |Brigg 6|Epworth 7|
27|Ashby pa|Norfolk |Norwich 8|Acle 7|
27|Ashby pa|Norfolk |Acle 3|Norwich 12|
36|Ashby pa|Suffolk |Lowestoft 5|Yarmouth 8|
28|Ashby, Cold pa|Northamp |Northamp 12|Daventry 10|
23|Ashby-de-la-Zouch}|Leicester|Leicester 18|Kegworth 10|
| [C] m.t. & pa}| | | |
+--+------------------+---------+-------------+------------+
|Dist.|
Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population.
+--+------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+
38|Ashburnham[A] pa|East Bourne 11| 55| 721|
11|Ashburton[B] }|Totness 7| 192| 4165|
| bo. m.t. & pa}| | | |
4|Ashbury to & pa|Highworth 7| 70| 698|
11|Ashbury pa|Launceston 14| 201| 74|
24|Ashby pa|Louth 12| 160| 179|
24|Ashby pa|Wainfleet 6| 134| 170|
24|Ashby pa|Navenby 6| 121| 178|
24|Ashby to|Gainsboro' 14| 157| 378|
27|Ashby pa|Bungay 9| 116| 72|
27|Ashby pa|Yarmouth 8| 125| 82|
36|Ashby pa|Beccles 7| 119| 42|
28|Ashby, Cold pa|Harborough 10| 78 | 385|
23|Ashby-de-la-Zouch}|M Bosworth 10| 115| 4727|
| [C] m.t. & pa}| | | |
+--+------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+
[A] ASHBURNHAM is in the hundred of Foxearle, and rape of Hastings. This
village gives the name and title of Earl to the representatives of the
ancient family of Ashburnham, who possessed this manor before the
conquest. The shirt and white silk drawers in which Charles I. was
executed, on the 30th of January, 1649, and also the watch which he gave
to Mr. John Ashburnham, on the scaffold, are still preserved in the
church, having been bequeathed by one of his descendants to the clerk of
this parish for ever, and are exhibited as great curiosities.
[Sidenote: Bequests of Charles I. made on the scaffold.]
[B] ASHBURTON is situated in a valley encompassed by hills; it is about
a mile from the river Dart, and consists principally of one long street,
through which runs the high road from London to Plymouth. The houses are
neat, and most of them covered with slate, of which there is abundance
in the vicinity. The manor belonged to the crown in the reign of James
I., but it has since passed through various private hands. The town,
which is governed by a portreeve, chosen at the court leet and baron of
the manor, is a borough by prescription, (that is to say, a custom
continued until it has the force of law;) and was constituted one of the
four stannary towns of Devon, by a charter of Edward I., in the
twenty-sixth year of whose reign it sent two members to Parliament, but
only returned members once subsequently until 1640, in which year its
privilege was restored: by the late reform bill, it now returns but one
member; the electors on the old constituency were 101, and L10
householders 342. The portreeve is the returning-officer. The borough
comprises the parish of Ashburton.
_Market_, Saturday.--_Fairs_, first Thursday in March; first Thursday
in June; August 10; November 11, for horned cattle.--_Inns_, London
and Golden Lion.--_Mail_ arrives 5 P.M., departs 9-3/4 A.M.
[Sidenote: One of the four stannary towns of the county.]