CLXXXI. NAUHEIM AND THE PRINCE OF WALES

Clemens was able to write pretty steadily that summer in Nauheim and

turned off a quantity of copy. He completed several short articles

and stories, and began, or at least continued work on, two books--'Tom

Sawyer Abroad' and 'Those Extraordinary Twins'--the latter being the

original form of 'Pudd'nhead Wilson'. As early as August 4th he wrote

to Hall that he had finished forty thousand words of the “Tom Sawyer”

story, and that it was to be offered to some young people's magazine,

Harper's Young People or St. Nicholas; but then he suddenly decided that

his narrative method was altogether wrong. To Hall on the 10th he wrote:

I have dropped that novel I wrote you about because I saw a more

effective way of using the main episode--to wit, by telling it

through the lips of Huck Finn. So I have started Huck Finn & Tom

Sawyer (still 15 years old) & their friend the freed slave Jim

around the world in a stray balloon, with Huck as narrator, &

somewhere after the end of that great voyage he will work in that

original episode & then nobody will suspect that a whole book has

been written & the globe circumnavigated merely to get that episode

in in an effective (& at the same time apparently unintentional)

way. I have written 12,000 words of this new narrative, & find that

the humor flows as easily as the adventures & surprises--so I shall

go along and make a book of from 50,000 to 100,000 words.

It is a story for boys, of course, & I think it will interest any

boy between 8 years & 80.

When I was in New York the other day Mrs. Dodge, editor of St.

Nicholas, wrote and offered me $5,000 for (serial right) a story for

boys 50,000 words long. I wrote back and declined, for I had other

matter in my mind then.

I conceive that the right way to write a story for boys is to write

so that it will not only interest boys, but will also strongly

interest any man who has ever been a boy. That immensely enlarges

the audience.

Now, this story doesn't need to be restricted to a child's magazine

--it is proper enough for any magazine, I should think, or for a

syndicate. I don't swear it, but I think so.

Proposed title--New Adventures of Huckleberry Finn.

He was full of his usual enthusiasm in any new undertaking, and writes

of the Extraordinary Twins:

By and by I shall have to offer (for grown folks' magazine) a novel

entitled, 'Those Extraordinary Twins'. It's the howling farce I

told you I had begun awhile back. I laid it aside to ferment while

I wrote Tom Sawyer Abroad, but I took it up again on a little

different plan lately, and it is swimming along satisfactorily now.

I think all sorts of folks will read it. It is clear out of the

common order--it is a fresh idea--I don't think it resembles

anything in literature.

He was quite right; it did not resemble anything in literature, nor did

it greatly resemble literature, though something at least related to

literature would eventually grow out of it.

In a letter written many years afterward by Frank Mason, then

consul-general at Frankfort, he refers to “that happy summer at

Nauheim.” Mason was often a visitor there, and we may believe that his

memory of the summer was justified. For one thing, Clemens himself was

in better health and spirits and able to continue his work. But an

even greater happiness lay in the fact that two eminent physicians had

pronounced Mrs. Clemens free from any organic ills. To Orion, Clemens

wrote:

We are in the clouds because the bath physicians say positively that

Livy has no heart disease but has only weakness of the heart muscles

and will soon be well again. That was worth going to Europe to find

out.

It was enough to change the whole atmosphere of the household, and

financial worries were less considered. Another letter to Orion relates

history:

The Twichells have been here four days & we have had good times with

them. Joe & I ran over to Homburg, the great pleasure-resort,

Saturday, to dine with friends, & in the morning I went walking in

the promenade & met the British ambassador to the Court of Berlin

and he introduced me to the Prince of Wales. I found him a most

unusually comfortable and unembarrassing Englishman.

Twichell has reported Mark Twain's meeting with the Prince (later Edward

VII) as having come about by special request of the latter, made through

the British ambassador. “The meeting,” he says, “was a most cordial one

on both sides, and presently the Prince took Mark Twain's arm and the

two marched up and down, talking earnestly together, the Prince, solid,

erect, and soldier-like, Clemens weaving along in his curious, swinging

gait in a full tide of talk, and brandishing a sun-umbrella of the most

scandalous description.”

When they parted Clemens said:

“It has been, indeed, a great pleasure to meet your Royal Highness.”

The Prince answered:

“And it is a pleasure, Mr. Clemens, to have met you--again.”

Clemens was puzzled to reply.

“Why,” he said, “have we met before?”

The Prince smiled happily.

“Oh yes,” he said; “don't you remember that day on the Strand when you

were on the top of a bus and I was heading a procession and you had on

your new overcoat with flap-pockets?”--[See chap. clxiii, “A Letter to

the Queen of England.”]

It was the highest compliment he could have paid, for it showed that

he had read, and had remembered all those years. Clemens expressed

to Twichell regret that he had forgotten to mention his visit to the

Prince's sister, Louise, in Ottawa, but he had his opportunity at a

dinner next day. Later the Prince had him to supper and they passed an

entire evening together.

There was a certain uneasiness in the Nauheim atmosphere that year, for

the cholera had broken out at Hamburg, and its victims were dying at a

terrific rate. It was almost impossible to get authentic news as to

the spread of the epidemic, for the German papers were curiously

conservative in their reports. Clemens wrote an article on the subject

but concluded not to print it. A paragraph will convey its tenor.

What I am trying to make the reader understand is the strangeness of

the situation here--a mighty tragedy being played upon a stage that

is close to us, & yet we are as ignorant of its details as we should

be if the stage were in China. We sit “in front,” & the audience is

in fact the world; but the curtain is down, & from behind it we hear

only an inarticulate murmur. The Hamburg disaster must go into

history as the disaster without a history.

He closes with an item from a physician's letter--an item which he says

“gives you a sudden and terrific sense of the situation there.”

For in a line it flashes before you--this ghastly picture--a thing

seen by the physician: a wagon going along the street with five sick

people in it, and with them four dead ones.

CLXXXII. THE VILLA VIVIANI. 'The American Claimant', published in May

l (1892), did not bring a very satisfactory return. For one thing, the

book-trade was light, and then the Claimant was not up to his usual

standard. It had been written under hard circumstances and by a pen

long out of practice; it had not paid, and its author must work all

the harder on the new undertakings. The conditions at Nauheim seemed

favorable, and they lingered there until well into September. To Mrs.

Crane, who had returned to America, Clemens wrote on the 18th, from

Lucerne, in the midst of their travel to Italy:

We remained in Nauheim a little too long. If we had left four or

five days earlier we should have made Florence in three days. Hard

trip because it was one of those trains that gets tired every 7

minutes and stops to rest three-quarters of an hour. It took us

3 1/2 hours to get there instead of the regulation 2 hours. We

shall pull through to Milan to-morrow if possible. Next day we

shall start at 10 AM and try to make Bologna, 5 hours. Next day,

Florence, D. V. Next year we will walk. Phelps came to Frankfort

and we had some great times--dinner at his hotel; & the Masons,

supper at our inn--Livy not in it. She was merely allowed a

glimpse, no more. Of course Phelps said she was merely pretending

to be ill; was never looking so well & fine.

A Paris journal has created a happy interest by inoculating one of

its correspondents with cholera. A man said yesterday he wished to

God they would inoculate all of them. Yes, the interest is quite

general and strong & much hope is felt.

Livy says I have said enough bad things, and better send all our

loves & shut up. Which I do--and shut up.

They lingered at Lucerne until Mrs. Clemens was rested and better able

to continue the journey, arriving at last in Florence, September

26th. They drove out to the Villa Viviani in the afternoon and found

everything in readiness for their reception, even to the dinner, which

was prepared and on the table. Clemens, in his notes, speaks of this and

adds:

It takes but a sentence to state that, but it makes an indolent person

tired to think of the planning & work and trouble that lie concealed in

it.

Some further memoranda made at this time have that intimate interest

which gives reality and charm. The 'contadino' brought up their trunks

from the station, and Clemens wrote:

The 'contadino' is middle-aged & like the rest of the peasants--that

is to say, brown, handsome, good-natured, courteous, & entirely

independent without making any offensive show of it. He charged too

much for the trunks, I was told. My informer explained that this

was customary.

September 27. The rest of the trunks brought up this morning. He

charged too much again, but I was told that this was also customary.

It's all right, then. I do not wish to violate the customs. Hired

landau, horses, & coachman. Terms, 480 francs a month & a pourboire

to the coachman, I to furnish lodging for the man & the horses, but

nothing else. The landau has seen better days & weighs 30 tons.

The horses are feeble & object to the landau; they stop & turn

around every now & then & examine it with surprise & suspicion.

This causes delay. But it entertains the people along the road.

They came out & stood around with their hands in their pockets &

discussed the matter with each other. I was told that they said

that a 30-ton landau was not the thing for horses like those--what

they needed was a wheelbarrow.

His description of the house pictures it as exactly today as it did

then, for it has not changed in these twenty years, nor greatly,

perhaps, in the centuries since it was built.

It is a plain, square building, like a box, & is painted light

yellow & has green window-shutters. It stands in a commanding

position on the artificial terrace of liberal dimensions, which is

walled around with masonry. From the walls the vineyards & olive

orchards of the estate slant away toward the valley. There are

several tall trees, stately stone-pines, also fig-trees & trees of

breeds not familiar to me. Roses overflow the retaining-walls, &

the battered & mossy stone urn on the gate-posts, in pink & yellow

cataracts exactly as they do on the drop-curtains in the theaters.

The house is a very fortress for strength. The main walls--all

brick covered with plaster--are about 3 feet thick. I have several

times tried to count the rooms of the house, but the irregularities

baffle me. There seem to be 28. There are plenty of windows &

worlds of sunlight. The floors are sleek & shiny & full of

reflections, for each is a mirror in its way, softly imaging all

objects after the subdued fashion of forest lakes. The curious

feature of the house is the salon. This is a spacious & lofty

vacuum which occupies the center of the house. All the rest of the

house is built around it; it extends up through both stories & its

roof projects some feet above the rest of the building. The sense

of its vastness strikes you the moment you step into it & cast your

eyes around it & aloft. There are divans distributed along its

walls. They make little or no show, though their aggregate length

is 57 feet. A piano in it is a lost object. We have tried to

reduce the sense of desert space & emptiness with tables & things,

but they have a defeated look, & do not do any good. Whatever

stands or moves under that soaring painted vault is belittled.

He describes the interior of this vast room (they grew to love it),

dwelling upon the plaster-relief portraits above its six doors,

Florentine senators and judges, ancient dwellers there and former owners

of the estate.

The date of one of them is 1305--middle-aged, then, & a judge--he

could have known, as a youth, the very greatest Italian artists, &

he could have walked & talked with Dante, & probably did. The date

of another is 1343--he could have known Boccaccio & spent his

afternoons wandering in Fiesole, gazing down on plague-reeking

Florence & listening to that man's improper tales, & he probably

did. The date of another is 1463--he could have met Columbus & he

knew the magnificent Lorenzo, of course. These are all Cerretanis

--or Cerretani-Twains, as I may say, for I have adopted myself into

their family on account of its antiquity--my origin having been

heretofore too recent to suit me.

We are considering the details of Viviani at some length, for it was in

this setting that he began and largely completed what was to be his most

important work of this later time--in some respects his most important

of any time--the 'Personal Recollections of Joan of Arc'. If the reader

loves this book, and he must love it if he has read it, he will not

begrudge the space here given to the scene of its inspiration. The

outdoor picture of Viviani is of even more importance, for he wrote

oftener out-of-doors than elsewhere. Clemens added it to his notes

several months later, but it belongs here.

The situation of this villa is perfect. It is three miles from

Florence, on the side of a hill. Beyond some hill-spurs is Fiesole

perched upon its steep terraces; in the immediate foreground is the

imposing mass of the Ross castle, its walls and turrets rich with

the mellow weather-stains of forgotten centuries; in the distant

plain lies Florence, pink & gray & brown, with the ruddy, huge dome

of the cathedral dominating its center like a captive balloon, &

flanked on the right by the smaller bulb of the Medici chapel & on

the left by the airy tower of the Palazzo Vecchio; all around the

horizon is a billowy rim of lofty blue hills, snowed white with

innumerable villas. After nine months of familiarity with this

panorama I still think, as I thought in the beginning, that this is

the fairest picture on our planet, the most enchanting to look upon,

the most satisfying to the eye & the spirit. To see the sun sink

down, drowned in his pink & purple & golden floods, & overwhelm

Florence with tides of color that make all the sharp lines dim &

faint & turn the solid city into a city of dreams, is a sight to

stir the coldest nature & make a sympathetic one drunk with ecstasy.

The Clemens household at Florence consisted of Mr. and Mrs. Clemens,

Susy, and Jean. Clara had soon returned to Berlin to attend Mrs.

Willard's school and for piano instruction. Mrs. Clemens improved in

the balmy autumn air of Florence and in the peaceful life of their

well-ordered villa. In a memorandum of October 27th Clemens wrote:

The first month is finished. We are wonted now. This carefree life

at a Florentine villa is an ideal existence. The weather is divine,

the outside aspects lovely, the days and nights tranquil and

reposeful, the seclusion from the world and its worries as

satisfactory as a dream. Late in the afternoons friends come out

from the city & drink tea in the open air & tell what is happening

in the world; & when the great sun sinks down upon Florence & the

daily miracle begins they hold their breath & look. It is not a

time for talk.

No wonder he could work in that environment. He finished 'Tom Sawyer

Abroad', also a short story, 'The L 1,000,000 Bank-Note' (planned many

years before), discovered the literary mistake of the 'Extraordinary

Twins' and began converting it into the worthier tale, 'Pudd'nhead

Wilson', soon completed and on its way to America.

With this work out of his hands, Clemens was ready for his great new

undertaking. A seed sown by the wind more than forty years before was

ready to bloom. He would write the story of Joan of Arc.

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