HOLY LAND PLEASURE EXCURSION

Steamer: Quaker City.

Captain C. C. Duncan.

Left New York at 2 P.m., June 8, 1867.

Rough weather--anchored within the harbor to lay all night.

That first note recorded an event momentous in Mark Twain's career--an

event of supreme importance; if we concede that any link in a

chain regardless of size is of more importance than any other link.

Undoubtedly it remains the most conspicuous event, as the world views it

now, in retrospect.

The note further heads a new chapter of history in sea-voyaging. No such

thing as the sailing of an ocean steamship with a pleasure-party on a

long transatlantic cruise had ever occurred before. A similar project

had been undertaken the previous year, but owing to a cholera scare

in the East it had been abandoned. Now the dream had become a fact--a

stupendous fact when we consider it. Such an important beginning as that

now would in all likelihood furnish the chief news story of the day.

But they had different ideas of news in those days. There were no

headlines announcing the departure of the Quaker City--only the barest

mention of the ship's sailing, though a prominent position was given

to an account of a senatorial excursion-party which set out that same

morning over the Union Pacific Railway, then under construction. Every

name in that political party was set dawn, and not one of them except

General Hancock will ever be heard of again. The New York Times,

however, had some one on its editorial staff who thought it worth while

to comment a little on the history-making Quaker City excursion. The

writer was pleasantly complimentary to officers and passengers. He

referred to Moses S. Beach, of the Sun, who was taking with him type and

press, whereby he would “skilfully utilize the brains of the company for

their mutual edification.” Mr. Beecher and General Sherman would find

talent enough aboard to make the hours go pleasantly (evidently the

writer had not interested himself sufficiently to know that these

gentlemen were not along), and the paragraph closed by prophesying other

such excursions, and wishing the travelers “good speed, a happy voyage,

and a safe return.”

That was handsome, especially for those days; only now, some fine day,

when an airship shall start with a band of happy argonauts to land

beyond the sunrise for the first time in history, we shall feature it

and emblazon it with pictures in the Sunday papers, and weeklies, and in

the magazines.--[The Quaker City idea was so unheard-of that in some

of the foreign ports visited, the officials could not believe that the

vessel was simply a pleasure-craft, and were suspicious of some dark,

ulterior purpose.]

That Henry Ward Beecher and General Sherman had concluded not to go

was a heavy disappointment at first; but it proved only a temporary

disaster. The inevitable amalgamation of all ship companies took place.

The sixty-seven travelers fell into congenial groups, or they mingled

and devised amusements, and gossiped and became a big family, as happy

and as free from contention as families of that size are likely to be.

The Quaker City was a good enough ship and sizable for her time. She

was registered eighteen hundred tons--about one-tenth the size of

Mediterranean excursion-steamers today--and when conditions were

favorable she could make ten knots an hour under steam--or, at least,

she could do it with the help of her auxiliary sails. Altogether she was

a cozy, satisfactory ship, and they were a fortunate company who had her

all to themselves and went out on her on that long-ago ocean gipsying.

She has grown since then, even to the proportions of the Mayflower. It

was necessary for her to grow to hold all of those who in later times

claimed to have sailed in her on that voyage with Mark Twain.--[The

Quaker City passenger list will be found under Appendix F, at the end of

last volume.]

They were not all ministers and deacons aboard the Quaker City. Clemens

found other congenial spirits be sides his room-mate Dan Slote--among

them the ship's surgeon, Dr. A. Reeve Jackson (the guide-destroying

“Doctor” of The Innocents); Jack Van Nostrand, of New Jersey (“Jack”);

Julius Moulton, of St. Louis (“Moult”), and other care-free fellows,

the smoking-room crowd which is likely to make comradeship its

chief watchword. There were companionable people in the cabin crowd

also--fine, intelligent men and women, especially one of the latter,

a middle-aged, intellectual, motherly soul--Mrs. A. W. Fairbanks, of

Cleveland, Ohio. Mrs. Fairbanks--herself a newspaper correspondent for

her husband's paper, the Cleveland Herald had a large influence on

the character and general tone of those Quaker City letters which

established Mark Twain's larger fame. She was an able writer herself;

her judgment was thoughtful, refined, unbiased--altogether of a superior

sort. She understood Samuel Clemens, counseled him, encouraged him to

read his letters aloud to her, became in reality “Mother Fairbanks,” as

they termed her, to him and to others of that ship who needed her kindly

offices.

In one of his home letters, later, he said of her:

She was the most refined, intelligent, cultivated lady in the ship,

and altogether the kindest and best. She sewed my buttons on, kept

my clothing in presentable trim, fed me on Egyptian jam (when I

behaved), lectured me awfully on the quarter-deck on moonlit

promenading evenings, and cured me of several bad habits. I am

under lasting obligations to her. She looks young because she is so

good, but she has a grown son and daughter at home.

In one of the early letters which Mrs. Fairbanks wrote to her paper she

is scarcely less complimentary to him, even if in a different way.

We have D.D.'s and M.D.'s--we have men of wisdom and men of wit.

There is one table from which is sure to come a peal of laughter,

and all eyes are turned toward Mark Twain, whose face is, perfectly

mirth-provoking. Sitting lazily at the table, scarcely genteel in

his appearance, there is something, I know not what, that interests

and attracts. I saw to-day at dinner venerable divines and sage-

looking men convulsed with laughter at his drolleries and quaint,

odd manners.

It requires only a few days on shipboard for acquaintances to form, and

presently a little afternoon group was gathering to hear Mark Twain read

his letters. Mrs. Fairbanks was there, of course, also Mr. and Mrs. S.

L. Severance, likewise of Cleveland, and Moses S. Beach, of the Sun,

with his daughter Emma, a girl of seventeen. Dan Slote was likely to be

there, too, and Jack, and the Doctor, and Charles J. Langdon, of Elmira,

New York, a boy of eighteen, who had conceived a deep admiration for the

brilliant writer. They were fortunate ones who first gathered to hear

those daring, wonderful letters.

But the benefit was a mutual one. He furnished a priceless

entertainment, and he derived something equally priceless in return--the

test of immediate audience and the boon of criticism. Mrs. Fairbanks

especially was frankly sincere. Mr. Severance wrote afterward:

One afternoon I saw him tearing up a bunch of the soft, white paper-

copy paper, I guess the newspapers call it-on which he had written

something, and throwing the fragments into the Mediterranean. I

inquired of him why he cast away the fruits of his labors in that

manner.

“Well,” he drawled, “Mrs. Fairbanks thinks it oughtn't to be printed,

and, like as not, she is right.”

And Emma Beach (Mrs. Abbott Thayer) remembers hearing him say:

“Well, Mrs. Fairbanks has just destroyed another four hours' work for

me.”

Sometimes he played chess with Emma Beach, who thought him a great

hero because, once when a crowd of men were tormenting a young lad, a

passenger, Mark Twain took the boy's part and made them desist.

“I am sure I was right, too,” she declares; “heroism came natural to

him.”

Mr. Severance recalls another incident which, as he says, was trivial

enough, but not easy to forget:

We were having a little celebration over the birthday anniversary of

Mrs. Duncan, wife of our captain. Mark Twain got up and made a little

speech, in which he said Mrs. Duncan was really older than Methuselah

because she knew a lot of things that Methuselah never heard of. Then

he mentioned a number of more or less modern inventions, and wound up by

saying, “What did Methuselah know about a barbed-wire fence?”

Except Following the Equator, The Innocents Abroad comes nearer to being

history than any other of Mark Twain's travel-books. The notes for it

were made on the spot, and there was plenty of fact, plenty of fresh,

new experience, plenty of incident to set down. His idea of descriptive

travel in those days was to tell the story as it happened; also,

perhaps, he had not then acquired the courage of his inventions. We

may believe that the adventures with Jack, Dan, and the Doctor are

elaborated here and there; but even those happened substantially as

recorded. There is little to add, then, to the story of that halcyon

trip, and not much to elucidate.

The old note-books give a light here and there that is interesting. It

is curious to be looking through them now, trying to realize that

these penciled memoranda were the fresh, first impressions that would

presently grow into the world's most delightful book of travel; that

they were set down in the very midst of that care-free little company

that frolicked through Italy, climbed wearily the arid Syrian hills.

They are all dead now; but to us they are as alive and young to-day as

when they followed the footprints of the Son of Man through Palestine,

and stood at last before the Sphinx, impressed and awed by its “five

thousand slow-revolving years.”

Some of the items consist of no more than a few terse, suggestive

words--serious, humorous, sometimes profane. Others are statistical,

descriptive, elaborated. Also there are drawings--“not copied,” he marks

them, with a pride not always justified by the result. The earlier

notes are mainly comments on the “pilgrims,” the freak pilgrims: “the

Frenchy-looking woman who owns a dog and keeps up an interminable

biography of him to the passengers”; the “long-legged, simple,

wide-mouthed, horse-laughing young fellow who once made a sea voyage to

Fortress Monroe, and quotes eternally from his experiences”; also, there

is reference to another young man, “good, accommodating, pleasant but

fearfully green.” This young person would become the “Interrogation

Point,” in due time, and have his picture on page 71 (old edition),

while opposite him, on page 70, would appear the “oracle,” identified as

one Doctor Andrews, who (the note-book says) had the habit of “smelling

in guide-books for knowledge and then trying to play it for old

information that has been festering in his brain.” Sometimes there are

abstract notes such as:

How lucky Adam was. He knew when he said a good thing that no one had

ever said it before.

Of the “character” notes, the most important and elaborated is

that which presents the “Poet Lariat.” This is the entry, somewhat

epitomized:

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