This comes nearer to explaining the wild unearthliness of Hukweem's

call than anything else I know. It makes things much simpler to

understand, when you are camped deep in the wilderness, and the night

falls, and out of the misty darkness under the farther shore comes a

wild shivering call that makes one's nerves tingle till he finds out

about it--_Where are you? O where are you?_ That is just like Hukweem.

Sometimes, however, he varies the cry, and asks very plainly: "Who are

you? O who are you?" There was a loon on the Big Squattuk lake, where

I camped one summer, which was full of inquisitiveness as a blue jay.

He lived alone at one end of the lake, while his mate, with her brood

of two, lived at the other end, nine miles away. Every morning and

evening he came close to my camp--very much nearer than is usual, for

loons are wild and shy in the wilderness--to cry out his challenge.

Once, late at night, I flashed a lantern at the end of the old log

that served as a landing for the canoes, where I had heard strange

ripples; and there was Hukweem, examining everything with the greatest

curiosity.

Every unusual thing in our doings made him inquisitive to know all

about it. Once, when I started down the lake with a fair wind, and a

small spruce set up in the bow of my canoe for a sail, he followed me

four or five miles, calling all the way. And when I came back to camp

at twilight with a big bear in the canoe, his shaggy head showing over

the bow, and his legs up over the middle thwart, like a little old

black man with his wrinkled feet on the table, Hukweem's curiosity

could stand it no longer. He swam up within twenty yards, and circled

the canoe half a dozen times, sitting up straight on his tail by a

vigorous use of his wings, stretching his neck like an inquisitive

duck, so as to look into the canoe and see what queer thing I had

brought with me.

He had another curious habit which afforded him unending amusement.

There was a deep bay on the west shore of the lake, with hills rising

abruptly on three sides. The echo here was remarkable; a single shout

brought a dozen distinct answers, and then a confusion of tongues as

the echoes and re-echoes from many hills met and mingled. I discovered

the place in an interesting way.

One evening at twilight, as I was returning to camp from exploring the

upper lake, I heard a wild crying of loons on the west side. There

seemed to be five or six of the great divers, all laughing and

shrieking like so many lunatics. Pushing over to investigate, I

noticed for the first time the entrance to a great bay, and paddled up

cautiously behind a point, so as to surprise the loons at their game.

For they play games, just as crows do. But when I looked in, there was

only one bird, Hukweem the Inquisitive. I knew him instantly by his

great size and beautiful markings. He would give a single sharp call,

and listen intently, with head up, swinging from side to side as the

separate echoes came ringing back from the hills. Then he would try

his cackling laugh, _Ooo-áh-ha-ha-ha-hoo, ooo-áh-ha-ha-ha-hoo_, and as

the echoes began to ring about his head he would get excited, sitting

up on his tail, flapping his wings, cackling and shrieking with glee

at his own performance. Every wild syllable was flung back like a shot

from the surrounding hills, till the air seemed full of loons, all

mingling their crazy cachinnations with the din of the chief

performer. The uproar made one shiver. Then Hukweem would cease

suddenly, listening intently to the warring echoes. Before the

confusion was half ended he would get excited again, and swim about in

small circles, spreading wings and tail, showing his fine feathers as

if every echo were an admiring loon, pleased as a peacock with himself

at having made such a noise in a quiet world.

There was another loon, a mother bird, on a different lake, whose two

eggs had been carried off by a thieving muskrat; but she did not know

who did it, for Musquash knows how to roll the eggs into water and

carry them off, before eating, where the mother bird will not find the

shells. She came swimming down to meet us the moment our canoe entered

the lake; and what she seemed to cry was, "Where are they? O where are

they?" She followed us across the lake, accusing us of robbery, and

asking the same question over and over.

But whatever the meaning of Hukweem's crying, it seems to constitute a

large part of his existence. Indeed, it is as a cry that he is chiefly

known--the wild, unearthly cry of the wilderness night. His education

for this begins very early. Once I was exploring the grassy shores of

a wild lake when a mother loon appeared suddenly, out in the middle,

with a great splashing and crying. I paddled out to see what was the

matter. She withdrew with a great effort, apparently, as I approached,

still crying loudly and beating the water with her wings. "Oho," I

said, "you have a nest in there somewhere, and now you are trying to

get me away from it." This was the only time I have ever known a loon

to try that old mother bird's trick. Generally they slip off the nest

while the canoe is yet half a mile away, and swim under water a long

distance, and watch you silently from the other side of the lake.

I went back and hunted awhile for the nest among the bogs of a little

bay; then left the search to investigate a strange call that sounded

continuously farther up the shore. It came from some hidden spot in

the tall grass, an eager little whistling cry, reminding me somehow of

a nest of young fish-hawks.

As I waded cautiously among the bogs, trying to locate the sound, I

came suddenly upon the loon's nest--just the bare top of a bog, where

the mother bird had pulled up the grass and hollowed the earth enough

to keep the eggs from rolling out. They were there on the bare ground,

two very large olive eggs with dark blotches. I left them undisturbed

and went on to investigate the crying, which had stopped a moment as I

approached the nest.

Presently it began again behind me, faint at first, then louder and

more eager, till I traced it back to Hukweem's household. But there

was nothing here to account for it, only two innocent-looking eggs on

top of a bog. I bent over to examine them more closely. There, on the

sides, were two holes, and out of the holes projected the points of

two tiny bills. Inside were two little loons, crying at the top of

their lungs, "Let me out! O let me out! It's hot in here. Let me

out--_Oooo-eee! pip-pip-pip_!"

But I left the work of release to the mother bird, thinking she knew

more about it. Next day I went back to the place, and, after much

watching, saw two little loons stealing in and out among the bogs,

exulting in their freedom, but silent as two shadows. The mother bird

was off on the lake, fishing for their dinner.

Hukweem's fishing is always an interesting thing to watch.

Unfortunately he is so shy that one seldom gets a good opportunity.

Once I found his favorite fishing ground, and came every day to watch

him from a thicket on the shore. It was of little use to go in a

canoe. At my approach he would sink deeper and deeper in the water, as

if taking in ballast. How he does this is a mystery; for his body is

much lighter than its bulk of water. Dead or alive, it floats like a

cork; yet without any perceptible motion, by an effort of will

apparently, he sinks it out of sight. You are approaching in your

canoe, and he moves off slowly, swinging his head from side to side so

as to look at you first with one eye, then with the other. Your canoe

is swift; he sees that you are gaining, that you are already too near.

He swings on the water, and sits watching you steadily. Suddenly he

begins to sink, deeper and deeper, till his back is just awash. Go a

little nearer, and now his body disappears; only his neck and head

remain above water. Raise your hand, or make any quick motion, and he

is gone altogether. He dives like a flash, swims deep and far, and

when he comes to the surface will be well out of danger.

If you notice the direction of his bill as it enters the water, you

can tell fairly well about where he will come up again. It was

confusing at first, in chasing him, to find that he rarely came up

where he was expected. I would paddle hard in the direction he was

going, only to find him far to the right or left, or behind me, when

at last he showed himself. That was because I followed his body, not

his bill. Moving in one direction, he will turn his head and dive.

That is to mislead you, if you are following him. Follow his bill, as

he does himself, and you will be near him when he rises; for he rarely

turns under water.

With two good men to paddle, it is not difficult to tire him out.

Though he swims with extraordinary rapidity under water--fast enough

to follow and catch a trout--a long deep dive tires him, and he must

rest before another. If you are chasing him, shout and wave your hat

the moment he appears, and paddle hard the way his bill points as he

dives again. The next time he comes up you are nearer to him. Send him

down again quick, and after him. The next time he is frightened to see

the canoe so close, and dives deep, which tires him the more. So his

disappearances become shorter and more confused; you follow him more

surely because you can see him plainly now as he goes down. Suddenly

he bursts out of water beside you, scattering the spray into your

canoe. Once he came up under my paddle, and I plucked a feather from

his back before he got away.

This last appearance always scares him out of his wits, and you get

what you have been working hard for--a sight of Hukweem getting under

way. Away he goes in a smother of spray, beating the water with his

wings, kicking hard to lift himself up; and so for a hundred yards,

leaving a wake like a stern-wheel steamer, till he gathers headway

enough to rise from the water.

After that first start there is no sign of awkwardness. His short

wings rise and fall with a rapidity that tries the eye to follow, like

the rush of a coot down wind to decoys. You can hear the swift, strong

beat of them, far over your head, when he is not calling. His flight

is very rapid, very even, and often at enormous altitudes. But when he

wants to come down he always gets frightened, thinking of his short

wings, and how high he is, and how fast he is going. On the ocean, in

winter, where he has all the room he wants, he sometimes comes down in

a great incline, miles long, and plunges through and over a dozen

waves, like a dolphin, before he can stop. But where the lake is

small, and he cannot come down that way, he has a dizzy time of it.

Once, on a little lake in September, I used to watch for hours to get

a sight of the process. Twelve or fifteen loons were gathered there,

holding high carnival. They called down every migrating loon that

passed that way; their numbers increased daily. Twilight was the

favorite time for arriving. In the stillness I would hear Hukweem far

away, so high that he was only a voice. Presently I would see him

whirling over the lake in a great circle.--"Come down, O come down,"

cry all the loons. "I'm afraid, _ooo-ho-ho-ho-ho-hoooo-eee_, I'm

afraid," says Hukweem, who is perhaps a little loon, all the way from

Labrador on his first migration, and has never come down from a height

before. "Come on, O come _oh-ho-ho-ho-ho-hon_. It won't hurt you; we

did it; come on," cry all the loons.

Then Hukweem would slide lower with each circle, whirling round and

round the lake in a great spiral, yelling all the time, and all the

loons answering. When low enough, he would set his wings and plunge

like a catapult at the very midst of the assembly, which scattered

wildly, yelling like schoolboys--"Look out! he'll break his neck;

he'll hit you; he'll break your back if he hits you."--So they

splashed away in a desperate fright, each one looking back over his

shoulder to see Hukweem come down, which he would do at a terrific

pace, striking the water with a mighty splash, and shooting half

across the lake in a smother of white, before he could get his legs

under him and turn around. Then all the loons would gather round him,

cackling, shrieking, laughing, with such a din as the little loon

never heard in his life before; and he would go off in the midst of

them, telling them, no doubt, what a mighty thing it was to come down

from so high and not break his neck.

A little later in the fall I saw those same loons do an astonishing

thing. For several evenings they had been keeping up an unusual racket

in a quiet bay, out of sight of my camp. I asked Simmo what he thought

they were doing.--"O, I don' know, playin' game, I guess, jus' like

one boy. Hukweem do dat sometime, wen he not hungry," said Simmo,

going on with his bean-cooking. That excited my curiosity; but when I

reached the bay it was too dark to see what they were playing.

One evening, when I was fishing at the inlet, the racket was different

from any I had heard before. There would be an interval of perfect

silence, broken suddenly by wild yelling; then the ordinary loon talk

for a few minutes, and another silence, broken by a shriller outcry.

That meant that something unusual was going on, so I left the trout,

to find out about it.

When I pushed my canoe through the fringe of water-grass on the point

nearest the loons, they were scattered in a long line, twelve or

fifteen of them, extending from the head of the bay to a point nearly

opposite me. At the other end of the line two loons were swimming

about, doing something which I could not make out. Suddenly the loon

talk ceased. There may have been a signal given, which I did not hear.

Anyway, the two loons faced about at the same moment and came tearing

down the line, using wings and feet to help in the race. The upper

loons swung in behind them as they passed, so as to watch the finish

better; but not a sound was heard till they passed my end of the line

in a close, hard race, one scarcely a yard ahead of the other, when

such a yelling began as I never heard before. All the loons gathered

about the two swimmers; there was much cackling and crying, which grew

gradually quieter; then they began to string out in another long line,

and two more racers took their places at one end of it. By that time

it was almost dark, and I broke up the race trying to get nearer in my

canoe so as to watch things better. Twice since then I have heard

from summer campers of their having seen loons racing across a lake. I

have no doubt it is a frequent pastime with the birds when the summer

cares for the young are ended, and autumn days are mellow, and fish

are plenty, and there are long hours just for fun together, before

Hukweem moves southward for the hard solitary winter life on the

seacoast.

Of all the loons that cried out to me in the night, or shared the

summer lakes with me, only one ever gave me the opportunity of

watching at close quarters. It was on a very wild lake, so wild that

no one had ever visited it before in summer, and a mother loon felt

safe in leaving the open shore, where she generally nests, and placing

her eggs on a bog at the head of a narrow bay. I found them there a

day or two after my arrival.

I used to go at all hours of the day, hoping the mother would get used

to me and my canoe, so that I could watch her later, teaching her

little ones; but her wildness was unconquerable. Whenever I came in

sight of the nest-bog, with only the loon's neck and head visible,

standing up very straight and still in the grass, I would see her slip

from the nest, steal away through the green cover to a deep place, and

glide under water without leaving a ripple. Then, looking sharp over

the side into the clear water, I would get a glimpse of her, just a

gray streak with a string of silver bubbles, passing deep and swift

under my canoe. So she went through the opening, and appeared far out

in the lake, where she would swim back and forth, as if fishing, until

I went away. As I never disturbed her nest, and always paddled away

soon, she thought undoubtedly that she had fooled me, and that I knew

nothing about her or her nest.

Then I tried another plan. I lay down in my canoe, and had Simmo

paddle me up to the nest. While the loon was out on the lake, hidden

by the grassy shore, I went and sat on a bog, with a friendly alder

bending over me, within twenty feet of the nest, which was in plain

sight. Then Simmo paddled away, and Hukweem came back without the

slightest suspicion. As I had supposed, from the shape of the nest,

she did not sit on her two eggs; she sat on the bog instead, and

gathered them close to her side with her wing. That was all the

brooding they had, or needed; for within a week there were two bright

little loons to watch instead of the eggs.

After the first success I used to go alone and, while the mother bird

was out on the lake, would pull my canoe up in the grass, a hundred

yards or so below the nest. From here I entered the alders and made

my way to the bog, where I could watch Hukweem at my leisure. After a

long wait she would steal into the bay very shyly, and after much fear

and circumspection glide up to the canoe. It took a great deal of

looking and listening to convince her that it was harmless, and that I

was not hiding near in the grass. Once convinced, however, she would

come direct to the nest; and I had the satisfaction at last of

watching a loon at close quarters.

She would sit there for hours--never sleeping apparently, for her eye

was always bright--preening herself, turning her head slowly, so as to

watch on all sides, snapping now and then at an obtrusive fly, all in

utter unconsciousness that I was just behind her, watching every

movement. Then, when I had enough, I would steal away along a caribou

path, and push off quietly in my canoe without looking back. She saw

me, of course, when I entered the canoe, but not once did she leave

the nest. When I reached the open lake, a little searching with my

glass always showed me her head there in the grass, still turned in my

direction apprehensively.

I had hoped to see her let the little ones out of their hard shell,

and see them first take the water; but that was too much to expect.

One day I heard them whistling in the eggs; the next day, when I

came, there was nothing to be seen on the nest-bog. I feared that

something had heard their whistling and put an untimely end to the

young Hukweems while mother bird was away. But when she came back,

after a more fearful survey than usual of the old bark canoe, two

downy little fellows came bobbing to meet her out of the grass, where

she had hidden them and told them to stay till she came back.

It was a rare treat to watch them at their first feeding, the little

ones all eagerness, bobbing about in the delight of eating and the

wonder of the new great world, the mother all tenderness and

watchfulness. Hukweem had never looked to me so noble before. This

great wild mother bird, moving ceaselessly with marvelous grace about

her little ones, watching their play with exquisite fondness, and

watching the great dangerous world for their sakes, now chiding them

gently, now drawing near to touch them with her strong bill, or to rub

their little cheeks with hers, or just to croon over them in an

ecstasy of that wonderful mother love which makes the summer

wilderness beautiful,--in ten minutes she upset all my theories, and

won me altogether, spite of what I had heard and seen of her

destructiveness on the fishing grounds. After all, why should she not

fish as well as I? And then began the first lessons in swimming and

hiding and diving, which I had waited so long to see.

Later I saw her bring little fish, which she had slightly wounded,

turn them loose in shallow water, and with a sharp cluck bring the

young loons out of their hiding, to set them chasing and diving wildly

for their own dinners. But before that happened there was almost a

tragedy.

One day, while the mother was gone fishing, the little ones came out

of their hiding among the grasses, and ventured out some distance into

the bay. It was their first journey alone into the world; they were

full of the wonder and importance of it. Suddenly, as I watched, they

began to dart about wildly, moving with astonishing rapidity for such

little fellows, and whistling loudly. From the bank above, a swift

ripple had cut out into the water between them and the only bit of bog

with which they were familiar. Just behind the ripple were the sharp

nose and the beady eyes of Musquash, who is always in some mischief of

this kind. In one of his prowlings he had discovered the little brood;

now he was manœuvering craftily to keep the frightened youngsters

moving till they should be tired out, while he himself crept carefully

between them and the shore.

Musquash knows well that when a young loon, or a shelldrake, or a

black duck, is caught in the open like that, he always tries to get

back where his mother hid him when she went away. That is what the

poor little fellows were trying to do now, only to be driven back and

kept moving wildly by the muskrat, who lifted himself now and then

from the water, and wiggled his ugly jaws in anticipation of the

feast. He had missed the eggs in his search; but young loon would be

better, and more of it.--"There you are!" he snapped viciously,

lunging at the nearest loon, which flashed under water and barely

escaped.

I had started up to interfere, for I had grown fond of the little wild

things whose growth I had watched from the beginning, when a great

splashing began on my left, and I saw the old mother bird coming like

a fury. She was half swimming, half flying, tearing over the water at

a great pace, a foamy white wake behind her.--"Now, you little

villain, take your medicine. It's coming; it's coming," I cried

excitedly, and dodged back to watch. But Musquash, intent on his evil

doing (he has no need whatever to turn flesh-eater), kept on viciously

after the exhausted little ones, paying no heed to his rear.

Twenty yards away the mother bird, to my great astonishment, flashed

out of sight under water. What could it mean! But there was little

time to wonder. Suddenly a catapult seemed to strike the muskrat from

beneath and lift him clear from the water. With a tremendous rush and

sputter Hukweem came out beneath him, her great pointed bill driven

through to his spine. Little need of my help now. With another

straight hard drive, this time at eye and brain, she flung him aside

disdainfully and rushed to her shivering little ones, questioning,

chiding, praising them, all in the same breath, fluttering and

cackling low in an hysteric wave of tenderness. Then she swam twice

around the dead muskrat and led her brood away from the place.

Perhaps it was to one of those same little ones that I owe a service

for which I am more than grateful. It was in September, when I was at

a lake ten miles away--the same lake into which a score of frolicking

young loons gathered before moving south, and swam a race or two for

my benefit. I was lost one day, hopelessly lost, in trying to make my

way from a wild little lake where I had been fishing, to the large

lake where my camp was. It was late afternoon. To avoid the long hard

tramp down a river, up which I had come in the early morning, I

attempted to cut across through unbroken forest without a compass.

Traveling through a northern forest in summer is desperately hard

work. The moss is ankle deep, the underbrush thick; fallen logs lie

across each other in hopeless confusion, through and under and over

which one must make his laborious way, stung and pestered by hordes of

black flies and mosquitoes. So that, unless you have a strong instinct

of direction, it is almost impossible to hold your course without a

compass, or a bright sun, to guide you.

I had not gone half the distance before I was astray. The sun was long

obscured, and a drizzling rain set in, without any direction whatever

in it by the time it reached the underbrush where I was. I had begun

to make a little shelter, intending to put in a cheerless night there,

when I heard a cry, and looking up caught a glimpse of Hukweem

speeding high over the tree-tops. Far down on my right came a faint

answering cry, and I hastened in its direction, making an Indian

compass of broken twigs as I went along. Hukweem was a young loon, and

was long in coming down. The crying ahead grew louder. Stirred up from

their day rest by his arrival, the other loons began their sport

earlier than usual. The crying soon became almost continuous, and I

followed it straight to the lake.

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