PIONEERS ENTER SALT LAKE VALLEY.
Ferrying the Missourians over the River.--Construction of
Rafts--Obtaining Provisions.--Ten Men Left at the Ferry.--Independence
Rock.--Devil's Gate.--175 Miles from Fort Laramie.--South Pass.--Meet
Major Harris, and Mr. Bridger.--Cross Green River.--Meet Samuel
Brannon.--Independence Day.--Meet a Detachment of the Battalion.--Fort
Bridger.--Report of the Missouri Company That Perished.--Reach Salt
Lake Valley, July 24, 1847.
"On June 10th, I examined a splendid grinding stone quarry on the east
side of the road as it leaves the hills and strikes the Platte, and
Brother Carrington found a very excellent coal bed on Deer Creek. The
specimens produced were good.
"At the blowing of the horn at night, I did not feel much like retiring
to bed, so walked half a mile from the camp on the bank of Deer Creek
and found Brother William Clayton fishing with a hook. He had caught
two dozen good fish. They resembled the eastern herring. Another
brother had also caught some. As they were leaving they left their
lines for me.
"I sat down for half an hour musing alone as unconcerned as though I
had been on the banks of Farmington River in my native place, when
suddenly I heard a rustling in the bushes near me, and for the first
time the thought flashed across me that I was in a country abounding
with the grizzly bear, wolves, and Indians, and was liable to an attack
at any moment from any one of them. I was away from my company and had
no weapon to defend myself, even against a badger. I thought it wisdom
to return to camp, and picking up my fishing rods, I walked leisurely
home and retired to rest.
"Next day we rode our horses into the river several times during our
journey to find a fording place, but could not find one. Our detached
company was reported at the ferry ten miles or so above us. Our hunters
brought in thirteen antelopes and the Missouri company killed three
buffaloes.
"I started on the following morning to go forward in company with
Brother A. P. Rockwood, who was riding President {298} Young's steed,
which unexpectedly sprang upon my horse, but instead of striking him,
he took my knee into his jaw and bruised me considerably, sinking one
tooth to the bone through three thicknesses of clothing and one of them
buckskin.
"George A. Smith and myself then rode on to the ferrying place and
found our detachment ferrying over the Missouri company who paid the
brethren $1.50 for each wagon and load, and paid in flour at $2.50 per
cwt., while flour through this country was worth at least $10.00 per
cwt.
"It was very difficult to get over the river. They carried the goods
over in a boat, but drew the wagons over with ropes by hand; and when
the current would strike them, they would frequently roll over several
times in the water, and they were likely to drown some of the horses.
One of the men would have been lost had not the brethren picked him
up with the boat. On the road the Missouri company had a stampede of
their teams, turning over their wagons, bruising women and children
and smashing their things. One ran into the river and would probably
have drowned and lost all, had not a little boy jumped out beside the
off ox, which gave him a fright and he 'sided off' and ran upon a sand
bank, dragging the others after him. The boy was knocked into the water
and hurt, but the scene ended without any loss of life.
"Our blacksmiths have been working for the Missouri company for which
they get flour, money, etc., and our hunters have been busily engaged.
They had killed five fat buffaloes, one old she bear and three cubs
and shot at two grizzly bears, but did not get them. Those killed were
black bears. Our hunters also brought into camp eight antelopes.
"Sunday, the 13th of June, was a very warm day, and the camp met for
prayer meeting at 9 o'clock, and at 10 we had a regular meeting.
President Kimball first addressed the meeting and was followed by
President Young, who remarked upon the great difference between us as
a camp and the Missouri companies who were traveling the same road. He
said, 'They curse, swear, rip, and tear, and are trying to swallow up
the earth; but though they do not wish us to have a place on it, the
earth will soon open and swallow them up and they will go to the land
of forgetfulness; {299} while the Saints, if faithful, though they
suffer some privations here, will ultimately inherit the earth and
increase in power, dominion, and glory.'
"He spoke much to our edification, and was followed by Elder O.
Pratt, after which the meeting was dismissed. The Twelve, colonels,
captains, etc., of the camp then met at President Young's wagon and
consulted about the measures to be adopted to get across the river.
It was finally agreed to go immediately to the mountains with wagons
and teams, and for every two tens to get poles and lash two or four
wagons abreast to keep them from turning over and float them across the
river with boats and ropes. So a company of horsemen started for the
mountains with teams to draw the poles.
"In the evening the flour, meal, and bacon which had been earned from
the Missouri company for ferrying them over were distributed through
the camp equally. It amounted to five and one-half pounds of flour, two
pounds of meal and a small piece of bacon for each individual in the
camp. It looked as much of a miracle to me to see our flour and meal
bags replenished in the midst of the Black Hills as it did to have the
Children of Israel fed with manna in the wilderness; but the Lord had
been truly with us on our journey and wonderfully preserved and blessed
us.
"At daylight the next morning the first two tens were called together
to make arrangements for crossing. Some of our party did not like the
mode proposed of lashing wagons together, as the current was so strong,
so we appointed Brother Grover as our captain to direct the rafting and
concluded to put our poles into a raft and carry our goods over in a
boat and ford our wagons on the raft.
"We commenced at 5 o'clock in the morning and in four hours we had
landed eleven wagons of goods upon the north shore with our little
leather boat, and during the day we got over all the wagons belonging
to our tens, there being eleven wagons in all.
"The rest of the encampment--being twelve tens--got over only the same
number of wagons as ourselves. They floated their wagons by tying from
two to four together, but the wagons turned clear over each other,
bottom side up and back again, breaking {300} the bows, covers, and
boxes to pieces, and losing ploughs, axes, and iron that were left in
the boxes.
"Most of our company were in the water from morning till night, and all
were very weary when the work was done.
"Just as we had drawn Dr. Richards' two wagons to the shore and loaded
his goods into them, a storm struck us. I sprang into my carriage, tied
all down very tight and applied my whole strength in holding my wagon
cover on, but the rain, wind, and hail beat so heavily that it was a
task, and my bed and things were nearly drenched. It lasted only seven
minutes, but was severe on our wagons and goods, and our horses ran two
or three miles in the storm. I crossed the river, went after them, tied
them up, and returned weary, but had some pleasant dreams that night.
"I felt unwell next day from the exposures of the day before. My teeth
ached. I had suffered much from them on my pioneer journey. It was
quite windy and our companies crossed the river very slowly. Another
Missouri company came up with us.
"President Young thought it wisdom to leave a number of the brethren
here until our companies which were expected to follow us should come
up. Those who remained were to keep a ferry for the emigrants on the
road not of our people. Such immigrants were to pay $1.50 per wagon in
flour at $2.00 per cwt., and in cows at $10.00 each.
"The brethren made two new rafts on the third day of our fording the
river and got quite a number of our pioneer wagons over. I was still
unwell, but in company with Orson Pratt, I went on to some of the
bluffs to view the country, and shot an antelope. This was the first
antelope I ever killed.
"We had some strong wind and heavy rain, and in the evening many of
us went over the river and tied up our horses. When one company was
returning in the leather boat, it half filled with water, and they came
nearly sinking.
"Early on the following morning, we swam our horses over, and one mule
was nearly drowned by being tangled in a rope, but the current carried
him ashore.
"The day before, twenty men went down the river to dig out two large
canoes to cover over and make a ferry boat. The emigrants {301} were
arriving daily at our fording place, and they reported one thousand
wagons between here and Laramie. This was the 5th day spent in ferrying
our pioneer company across the river, but now we had succeeded in
getting all over, and we once more formed our wagons into a circle. Our
brethren helped some of the Missourians to cross, and ran their boat
all night in ferrying them over.
"Next day while we were still ferrying them over another large company
arrived. We gathered our cattle at 10 o'clock and harnessed our horses,
but did not start, as all were not ready, so we turned our teams out
again.
"In the afternoon we held a council and resolved to leave nine men
to conduct the ferry and to ford emigrant companies and also our own
brethren who should come after us. The men were chosen and we met with
them again in the evening.
"President Young rebuked one who had asked to stay, but who later
wished to continue on with us. He also instructed the brethren who were
to tarry to keep together and divide their means accumulated equally
according to their labor, for each to esteem his brother as himself, in
no wise to retain that which belonged to the traveler, to be careful
of the lives and property of those they ferried, not to forget their
prayers, and to come up after us with the next company of Saints.
"The men to remain at the ferry were Thomas Grover, captain; John
S. Higbee, Luke Johnson, William Empy, Edmund Elsworth, Benjamin F.
Stewart, Francis Pomeroy, James Davenport, and Appleton Harmon.
"After seven days we continued our journey, traveled during the day
twenty and one-half miles, and had the most wretched camping ground
at night we had found on the way. President Young thought it might
properly be called 'Hell Gate.' The country abounded with alkali and
the water was extremely nauseating. Our horses and cattle, being
thirsty, drank some and left it. Some of the cattle got badly mired in
the marshes. Our hunters brought in one buffalo, one deer, and three
antelopes.
"Early on Sunday morning, the 20th, we hitched up without feed or water
and left our encampment of death, poison waters, and alkaline marshes
and drove three miles to a good camping {302} ground and sweet water.
This was on the Willow Spring branch, about three miles from the head.
"We halted two hours and took breakfast. President Young wished me to
go on about fifteen miles and look up a camping ground for the night.
So I went forward with George A. Smith to the head of the Willow
Spring. Here he stopped with a doctor of a Missouri company, who had
been attending a sick family, to wait for our wagons to come up, and I
rode on alone. After traveling alone several miles, Brother John Brown
came up, and we rode on together over a sandy, barren, sage country to
a creek of good water about ten miles west of the Willow Spring. We
arrived here at half past 1 o'clock, and turned our horses out to graze.
"Here we tarried till four o'clock and watched for our wagons to come
in sight, but we could see none. At length two horsemen were seen
approaching and we waved a small flag for them to come to us, supposing
they were of our company, but they turned out to be two hunters of
the Missouri company, carrying in buffalo meat to their camp. In the
distance they thought we were Indians and made off.
"I mounted my horse and put after them and soon overtook them and made
inquiries concerning our company. They said they had not seen it, but
had seen about a dozen wagons coming by themselves.
"I then concluded that our camp had stopped at the Willow Spring.
Captain Smith, who was of the Missouri company, invited us to go on and
camp with them for the night, as they did not expect to go more than
a few miles farther than the creek we were then on. We could see five
miles on the road back, and no wagons were in sight; and as it was now
five o'clock, I concluded our company would not come on, and if they
did, they would come no farther than the creek.
"We accepted Captain Smith's proposal, and went on with him to spend
the night in his camp; but instead of journeying only a miles or so, he
continued on mile after mile, finding neither feed nor water, excepting
salt and alkaline ponds until we struck the Sweet Water at Independence
Rock, so noted already in Fremont's {303} journal, and by other
travelers. This was twelve miles from the creek before spoken of.
"The Sweet Waters were sweet indeed, both to man and beast, after
traveling through so much alkali country, and there was good feed for
the stock.
"After a good supper of bacon, buffalo meat, corn bread, coffee, milk,
etc., I lay down in the tent with the Missourians, but did not rest
well. I found that there was a great difference between these Missouri
emigrants and our own, where there was no such thing as cursing,
swearing, quarreling, contending with other companies, etc., allowed or
practiced.
"But to return to our pioneer company. At a late hour they came up to
the creek which we had left twelve miles back, and grass being poor
continued on four miles west of the creek, and camped for the night.
Not finding me at the creek, nor hearing from me at all, they felt
somewhat alarmed lest I was lost, or had got into trouble with the
Indians. They blew the bugle and watched for me till midnight, and
finally fired the cannon, while I was camped ten miles from them, not
thinking that I was giving them any trouble. I traveled this day a
distance of thirty miles and our pioneer company twenty.
"I arose early this morning, June 21, took breakfast, and in company
with Brother Brown rode around Independence Rock. We examined the many
names and lists of names of the trappers, traders, travelers, and
emigrants, nearly all in black, red, and yellow paint. Some had been
washed out or otherwise defaced. The greatest number was put on during
recent years, but we found some of thirty years standing. Nearly all
the companies who pass put their names on it.
"After going around and examining it, we staked our horses and mounted
it. I went forward and gained the high point on the south end of the
Rock which contains the names. I then went to the north end, which is
the highest point of Independence Rock. There is an opening or cavern
that would contain thirty or forty persons and a rock standing upon the
highest peak of about three tons weight.
"Upon this rock we climbed to the highest point and offered up our
prayers according to the order of the priesthood, praying {304}
earnestly for the blessing of God to rest upon President Young and
his brethren the Twelve and all the Pioneer Camp, the whole Camp and
House of Israel in the wilderness, our wives, children, and relatives,
the Mormon Battalion, and the churches abroad. While offering up our
prayers the spirit of the Lord descended upon us. I was the first
Latter-day Saint on Independence Rock.
"We had a view of our camp from the rock, and expected they would noon
there, so we mounted our horses and concluded to examine the country
around. We rode five miles to the northeast, went on the top of the
high bluff and saw our camp in motion. We then rode to the foot of the
mountain and traced the way to the Devil's Gate, through which the
Sweet Water runs. Here we spent but a few moments, and then hurried
back to Independence Rock. As our camp had come up, before we could
get to them, and camped half a mile east of it, I saw President Young
going up to Independence Rock, and I related to him my travels since I
left the company. He asked me to go back with him, so I turned out my
horse, having ridden him twenty miles during the forenoon, and returned
with President Young, Willard Richards, George A. Smith, and others. We
spent half an hour on the Rock and then returned to our camp, mounted
our horses and rode to the Devil's Gate, five miles from Independence
Rock. We rode as far as we could into the Gate, hitched our horses, and
walked into about the centre of the cavern.
"The Devil's Gate is about four hundred feet high, one hundred and
twenty feet wide, and fifty rods long, and the water rushes through it
with a roar. The rocks are coarse, gray granite with a vein of black
trap rock running through them. We spent about half an hour here, and
then had to back our horses out, after which we rode around it on the
south side. Some of the footmen walked over the top of it. We camped
for the night about one mile west of the Devil's Gate, on the bank of
the Sweet Water.
"A guide board was put up at Devil's Gate, stating that it was one
hundred and seventy-five and one-fourth miles from Fort Laramie, and
fifty and one-fourth from our ferry on the Platte River.
"Two more Missouri companies overtook us at noon on our next day's
travel, and they informed us that a man was drowned {305} at the ferry,
after we left, in trying to swim his horses, and that his body had not
been found.
"The camp started on again after our company had nooned; but Brothers
Young, Little, Benson, and myself went back to meet Lorenzo Young,
who had broken an axletree of his wagon, and we were behind all the
afternoon.
"After a journey of twenty and three-fourths miles, the pioneers camped
at night at the foot of a mound about two-hundred feet high, on the
bank of Sweet Water. Brother Kimball and myself went to the top of it
and looked down upon the camp, and it appeared to us delightful. We
offered up our prayers and the spirit of the Lord rested upon us, and
then we descended to the camp. The moon was shining beautifully. On the
24th the best horse in camp, President Young's, was shot by accident.
"On the evening of the 26th of June, after a travel of eighteen and
three-fourths miles, we camped opposite the Table Rock and near the
summit of the South Pass. I was quite astonished at the road and
country to-day, considering we were crossing at the South Pass of the
Rocky Mountains. It was the best road we had traveled over for many
days, and had it not been for the Wind River range of mountains in
full view on our right covered with eternal snow, and some snow banks
ten feet deep by the side of the road as we passed along, with the
Table Rock on the left, I should almost have thought myself traveling
over the beautiful prairies of Illinois and Missouri, except that the
country was covered with more sage than prairie grass. The road for
many miles, and also the plain of beautiful grass lying north of the
Table Rock, were strewn with very handsome cornelian stones. I saw more
in one hour this evening than ever before during my whole life, either
in the rude state or polished, in all the jewelers' shops I ever saw in
my travels.
"Elders Kimball, Pratt, G. A. Smith, and Brown had gone on to take
observation on the dividing ridge. They continued on to the Green
River, seven miles from us, which runs into the Pacific, while we were
on the Sweet Waters, that run in an easterly direction. They supposed
that we would come on to them, and as they did not return, several of
us mounted our horses to go in search of them, but we soon met Brother
Kimball returning, and {306} he informed us that the rest of the
brethren would camp on the Green River with some men from Oregon on
their way to the States.
"June 27th, 1847, was the third anniversary of the martyrdom of Joseph
and Hyrum Smith.
"It was Sunday morning, but we harnessed up our teams and drove to
where Brothers Pratt and Smith had camped with Major Harris, who had
been traveling through Oregon and California for twenty-five years, and
had a wide acquaintance with the country. He brought a file of Oregon
papers and one published by S. Brannon of California. We had a great
deal of conversation with him. He spoke unfavorably of the Salt Lake
country for a settlement, but spoke of other places not far off that
were good.
"We parted with Major Harris next day, after doing some trading with
him, and in our afternoon's travel met Mr. Bridger of the Fort on the
way with men going to Fort Laramie. He was expecting us and wished to
have an interview with President Young and the Twelve. We also wished
to have an interview with him. We immediately returned to the Creek
upon which we had nooned and camped for the night, and Mr. Bridger and
his men camped with us.
"We met in council with Mr. Bridger, and spent some hours in
conversation, and found him to be a great traveler, possessing an
extensive knowledge of nearly all Oregon and California, the mountains,
lakes, rivers, springs, valleys, mines, ore, etc. He spoke more highly
of the Great Basin for a settlement than Major Harris had done. He said
it was his paradise and that if this people settled in it he would
settle with them; and that there was but one thing that could operate
against its becoming a great grain country, and that would be frost,
as he did not know but the frost might affect the corn. He conversed
with us about a great variety of subjects connected with the country;
said he was ashamed of the maps of Fremont, who knew nothing about the
country, only the plain traveled road, and that he could correct all
the maps published of the western world.
"We parted next day from Mr. Bridger who remarked that it would not be
prudent to bring a great population to the Basin until we ascertained
whether grain would grow or not. O. P. {307} Rockwell and myself went
forward to pick out a camping ground. We traveled fifteen miles from
where we nooned before we could get grass, and this made the longest
day's journey on the whole route, making twenty-three and three-fourths
miles.
"We traveled three miles on the last day of June, and camped on the
bank of the Green River at the ferry. The afternoon was spent in
building a raft, as the river was high and could only be crossed upon
rafts or boats.
"During the afternoon, the arrival of Elder Samuel S. Brannon from the
bay of San Francisco was announced in camp, and we were glad to meet
with him, and to hear from the Saints who went with him. He gave us an
account of their landing, their travels, and present settlement, which
was two hundred miles up the river from the bay. They were putting in
wheat and building up their place.
"During the following three days we were fording Green River. On the
afternoon of the second, the Twelve held a council and four men were
appointed to return and meet the Camp of Israel and pilot them. We each
wrote our wives concerning the counsel to be given the camp. I wrote
letters next day to my father, A. O. Smoot, and John Benbow, to be
taken back by the pilots. The ferrying was finished on the evening of
the third day and we moved on three miles and camped.
"The Fourth of July came on Sunday. I accompanied President Young,
Brothers Kimball, Richards, and others with the pilots to the ferry
to put them across; and when we arrived at the river we saw thirteen
horsemen on the opposite bank with their baggage on one of our rafts.
To our great joy, who should they be but our brethren of the Mormon
Battalion belonging to Captain Brown's detachment, who had been at
Pueblo during the winter. Amasa Lyman, whom we had sent to them, had
reached them with information of our movements and the whole detachment
of one hundred and forty of the brethren were within seven days' drive
of us.
"When we met these brethren there was truly a hearty greeting and
shaking of hands. We put them all over the river excepting one who
returned with our pilots to meet the following companies of the Saints.
This small detachment of the Battalion had {308} about a dozen of their
horses stolen by some horse thieves, but they overtook them and got
them all back but two which had gone on to Bridger.
"We left Green River (the headwaters of the Colorado) on the 5th, drove
twenty miles, and camped on Black's Fork. There was neither feed nor
water between this place and Green River, but similar to the last two
hundred miles, a sandy desert covered with sage brush.
"Next evening we camped on the west side of Ham's Fork, which we
crossed on the following day and drove to Fort Bridger. In the region
of the Fort, before we got on to our camping ground, we crossed more
than a dozen trout brooks, the water running swiftly but clear, with
hard, gravelly bottoms, and the whole region of country up and down
these streams was covered with grass knee deep.
"The brethren caught several brook trout which was the first I had seen
since I left England, and as we were to spend the next day at the Fort,
I calculated on a day of fishing. As soon as I had my breakfast next
morning, I rigged up my fishing rod that I had brought with me from
Liverpool, fixed my reel line and artificial fly, and went to one of
the brooks close by to try my luck.
"The men at the Fort said that there were but few trout in the streams,
and a good many of the brethren were already at the creeks with their
rods trying their skill, baiting with fresh meat and grasshoppers, but
no one was catching any.
"I threw my fly into the water, and it being the first time that I ever
tried the artificial fly in America or ever saw it tried, I watched it
as it floated upon the water with as much interest as Franklin did his
kite when he was experimenting in drawing lightning from the sky; and
as he received great joy when he saw the electricity descend on his
kite string, so was I highly gratified when I saw the nimble trout dart
at my fly hook, and run away with the line. I soon worried him out and
drew him to shore.
"I fished two or three hours during the morning and evening and caught
twelve in all. One half of them would weigh three-fourths of a pound
each, while all the rest of the camp did not {309} catch three pounds
in all, which was taken as proof that the artificial fly is far the
best to fish with.
"In the afternoon I went to Bridger's house and traded off my
flint-lock rifle for four buffalo robes which were large, nice, and
well dressed. I found things generally at least one-third higher than I
had ever known them at any other trading post I ever saw in America.
"I arose in the morning quite unwell and felt threatened with the
mountain fever, yet I mounted my horse and rode till ten o'clock; but
before I started I was called upon to administer to Brother Carter,
who was taken with the fever. There were new cases of the mountain
fever every day in camp. At ten o'clock I had to give up and take to my
bed in the wagon with distressing pain in my head, back, joint bones,
marrow and all through my system, attended with cold chills and hot
flashes through the body. We traveled over thirteen miles of as bad
road as any we had on our journey, which made it exceedingly painful to
the sick. The day seemed very long to me. When we stopped at night, I
took composition, cayenne, and a dose of vegetable pills, had a better
night than I expected; and though I was feeble in the morning, I felt
that my fever was broken up and I was recovering.
"The night of the 10th we camped one and a half miles from Bear River,
by the best stream of water we had found on the route, and a small
stream near by a valley six miles long, grass knee deep, strong mineral
springs, copper, lead, coal, and lime.
"Camp fires were discovered about three miles from our camping ground
and George A. Smith and others went over to them and found them to be
in the camp of a Mr. Miles Goodyear. He had settled at Salt Lake and
had a garden and vegetables, he said, doing well. Several Missourians
were with him going to the States.
"The subject was brought up concerning the emigrant company who
had perished in the mountains last winter. They were mostly from
Independence and Clay Counties, Missouri, and were a mob company that
threatened to drive out the Mormons who were in California, and started
with that spirit in their hearts. But it seemed as though they were
ripe for judgment. The snows {310} fell upon them eighteen feet deep
on a level, many died and others turned cannibal. About forty persons
perished. They were mostly eaten up by those who survived them. Mrs.
L. Murphy of Tennessee, whom I baptized while on a mission in that
country, but since apostatized and joined the mob, was in that company
and died, or was killed, and eaten. Her bones were sawed to pieces for
her brains and marrow, and then left strewn upon the ground.
"We spent the Sunday in camp, but some of the brethren rode out to seek
out the road and found a tar spring about fifteen miles south of our
camp.
"Early Monday morning, I rode to Bear River, and for the first time I
saw the long-looked-for Bear River Valley.
"The spot where we struck it was not very interesting. There was
considerable grass in the valley and some timber and thick brushes on
the bank of the river. My object in riding to the river before the camp
was to try my luck in fishing for trout. After fishing for several
hours, I started after the camp, having caught eight trout in all.
"The pioneers had traveled nine miles and nooned in a valley. I found
President Young very sick with the fever. The company had started on,
but President Young lay so sick that he concluded not to move from
where he was. Brothers Kimball, Benson, Rockwood, and others stayed
with him with their wagons.
"We drove without any road over hills and dales, having to make our
road as we went along. We camped at night by the side of Reddings
Cave. The valleys were beginning to grow more fertile and the air more
pacific.
"I arose quite unwell in the morning. Several brethren went to meet
President Young, and the camp lay still waiting for him to come up.
Brother Kimball came at noon and a council of the whole camp was
called, and it was resolved that Orson Pratt take a company of about
twenty wagons and forty men and go on to the canyon and make a road as
they went, so we would not be hindered when we came along. There were
twenty-three wagons in all that started at 1 o'clock.
"We had found but little game for many days until yesterday, when the
hunters brought in twelve antelopes, and ten today.
{311} "President Young was better today, but decided not to move until
to-morrow. In the afternoon I walked out with Elder Richards, in search
of springs of water.
"Next morning I rode back seven miles to visit President Young and
found him much better in health and quite cheerful. The evening before,
Dr. Richards, myself, and George A. Smith went before the Lord and
prayed for Brother Young, and we had a testimony that he would recover
from that hour. I found Brother Rockwood the sickest man that had been
in our company. I tarried until near night, assisting the sick, and
then returned to our encampment.
"I started early on the morrow with my carriage and horses to go back
for President Young and Brother Rockwood. I was two hours driving seven
miles to their camp. I found them much better, and they thought they
could ride, as my carriage was the easiest vehicle in our company. I
made up a bed and took them both into my carriage, and the rest of the
wagons started and drove to the main body. The sick seemed refreshed by
their ride. After a short halt, the whole company drove four and a half
miles and camped for the night.
"Next day I again took Brothers Young and Rockwood in my carriage and
drove them during the day. We had bad roads for the sick, and Brother
Brigham was worn out and worse at night. At night I went to Weber Fork,
one mile from our encampment, and caught a trout for him.
"He was still sick in the morning, and after we had driven three miles
on to the Weber's Fork, we camped the remainder of the day because
President Young was worse. The Twelve and others went out and prayed
for him and for the sick generally, according to the order of the
priesthood.
"Sunday, the 18th, was spent holding meeting; and on the morrow
morning, forty-one wagons went on. With them were Dr. Richards' and
George A Smith's. Fifteen wagons remained with President Young. Two of
mine were of the number.
"In company with Heber C. Kimball, E. T. Benson, and Howard Egan, I
rode over the mountain called Pratt's Pass, with the company that went
on, and then returned to President Young.
"Next morning we started early and stopped for breakfast {312} after a
five-mile drive. I carried Brother Brigham in my carriage. The fever
was still on him, but he stood the ride well.
"After breakfast we traveled ten miles over the worst road of the
whole journey. Our camping ground at night was on a trout creek. Here
we found three wagons that had tarried in consequence of the sick.
Brothers Sherwood, Johnson, and Dewey were so sick they could not
journey, and we camped with them and baptized them for their health,
and I confirmed them. This morning Brother Pratt's company was only
eight miles further on than where we camped at night.
"We remained in camp next day because of sickness. We were on East
Canyon Creek, and the route we were taking was Reed's Pass, which we
named Pratt's Pass, in consequence of his going on to make the road.
"Next day eight miles of our journey was made, and East Canyon Creek
was reached. It was eight miles of the worst of roads, and Brother Case
smashed one of his hind wheels. We had to wait two hours to bring his
wagon up. The sick stood the journey better than we expected during the
day, considering the bad road.
"We left East Canyon Creek on the 23rd and traveled to the west five
miles up hill which brought us to the summit, and then descended the
mountain six miles through a thick timber grove. The timbers had
been cut out of the road, yet it was full of stumps and it kept each
teamster very busy to dodge the stumps and not break his wagon. One man
turned his wagon over and smashed the top all to pieces. There were two
children in the wagon, but they were not hurt.
"We nooned at a beautiful spring in a small birch grove. There was more
timber during this half day's travel than we had seen in a month, and
the valleys, both ascending and descending, were extremely fertile and
covered with vegetation to the tops of the hills.
"At the spring where we nooned we were met by Brothers Pack and Matthews
from the forward camps. They brought us a letter informing us that
it was only ten miles to the valley of the Great Salt Lake, or Great
Basin, and fourteen to their camp. They had explored the country as
far as possible and made choice of a {313} spot to put in crops. After
nooning we traveled up another very tedious hill and down into a valley
and camped for the night.
"This, the 24th day of July, 1847, was an important day in the
history of my life, and in the history of the Church of Jesus Christ
of Latter-day Saints. After traveling from our encampment six miles
through the deep ravine valley ending with the canyon, we came in full
view of the valley of the Great Salt Lake, or the Great Basin--the Land
of Promise, held in reserve by the hand of God as a resting place for
the Saints.
"We gazed with wonder and admiration upon the vast fertile valley
spread out before us for about twenty-five miles in length and sixteen
miles in width, clothed with a heavy garment of vegetation, and in
the midst of which glistened the waters of the Great Salt Lake, with
mountains all around towering to the skies, and streams, rivulets and
creeks of pure water running through the beautiful valley.
"After a hard journey from Winter Quarters of more than one thousand
miles, through flats of the Platte River and plateaus of the Black
Hills and Rocky Mountains and over the burning sands, and eternal sage
regions, willow swails and rocky regions, to gaze upon a valley of such
vast extent surrounded with a perfect chain of everlasting mountains
covered with eternal snow, with their innumerable peaks like pyramids
towering towards heaven, presented at one view to us the grandest
scenery and prospect that we could have obtained on earth. Thoughts
of pleasant meditation ran in rapid succession through our minds at
the anticipation that not many years hence the House of God would be
established in the mountains and exalted above the hills, while the
valleys would be converted into orchards, vineyards, fields, etc.,
planted with cities, and the standard of Zion be unfurled, unto which
the nations would gather.
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