then rolled, and turfed where needed. New grass may be sown, having
the land previously well-drained, deep-dug, and levelled, sow in
dry weather, rake and roll the seeds in, and repeat the rolling at
intervals. Finish planting shrubs and climbers, and do pruning to
these and summer-flowering roses in mild weather. Cleanse ferneries
from dead fronds and weeds, and replace the surface soil with a
dressing of peat and loam pressed well round the plants. Dig and
manure beds filled with herbaceous plants. Plant choice kinds of
ranunculus, and set out calceolarias and violas that have been
confined in cold frames during the winter, pinching off the tops
when they begin to grow. Pelargoniums may be boxed or potted off in
leaf-soil, loam, and a little sand, keeping them in mild heat till
well rooted. Take cuttings from plants put in heat last month, e.g.
heliotropes, lobelias, and verbenas. Seeds of subtropical plants may
be sown in heat, for putting out in large beds. Hardy annuals to
succeed those sown in autumn may now be sown in pots.
_March._--Hotbeds are now all-important for sowing capsicums, celery,
egg-plants, lettuce, melons, New Zealand spinach, tomatoes, and
vegetable marrow. Suckers of globe artichokes should be set out 2
ft. apart in rows 4 ft. asunder; whole sets of Jerusalem artichokes
may be planted in strong soil, and are especially useful for hiding
ugly fences. Weed and manure asparagus beds, and prepare for sowing
new beds. Earth up early beans, set out seedlings raised in frames,
and sow for main crop. Sow early beet. Several kinds of broccoli,
Brussels sprouts, cabbage, and kale, should be sown now, the more
delicate sorts in frames, and planted out in mild weather when
forward enough. A second sowing of capsicums may be wanted. Early
carrots may be sown at once, but main crops somewhat later in the
spring. Set out early-sown cauliflower, and sow later kinds. Renew
sowing and pricking out of celery. Divide and re-plant chives, and
lose no time in planting garlic and horseradish. Sow leeks for
planting out. Plant out and re-sow lettuce of several kinds. Onions
for salading and pickling may be sown in quantity. Do not forget
parsley. The main crop of parsnips must be sown in good time. The
later kinds of pea must now be sown for the main supply. Plant late
potatoes in quantity and follow with early kinds (to avoid May
frost). Make successive sowings of radishes out of doors. Sow or
plant seakale. Sow plenty of spinach and turnips. Try watercress in
pans standing in water.
Fork over the ground between spring-flowering plants and in
shrubberies when the weather is dry and favourable. Remove protection
from roses, and finish pruning. Start dahlias in a hotbed, and
divide and pot when they show shoots 1-2 in. long; treat cannas and
Salvia patens in a similar manner. Finish potting ageratums, coleus,
cupheas, heliotropes and pelargoniums. Box variegated alyssum,
lobelias and verbenas, or, when hardened, plant them in frames. Prick
off subtropical plants into pans, or place them singly in small pots,
when large enough to handle; remove into larger pots as they require
it. Plant gladiolus bulbs either in warm sheltered beds, or first in
pots in a cold frame. Canary creeper and sweet pea should be sown
in pots for early flowers; the latter also in the open. Harden all
annuals sown last month in pots, ready for planting out in April. Sow
asters and stocks in a frame in mild heat. Watering needs much care
this month, on account of drying winds and frosts.
_April._--Pay the utmost attention to weeding and hoeing, and keep
the soil opened to sunshine and rain. Again weed and dress asparagus
beds and sow or plant new ones. Sow a few beans towards the end of
the month. Make a sowing of beet early in the month and a heavier
one towards the end. Renew the sowing of broccoli at intervals, and
keep up a constant succession of cabbage. Sow cardoons on level,
heavily-dunged land, and main crops of carrots. Plant out cauliflower
in mild weather, and protect with old flower-pots in keen winds and
frost. Sow successive lots of celery in a warm open bed, and some
in pans under frames for pricking out. Sow egg-plants in heat and
pot when ready. Herbs such as chervil, chicory, clary, fennel, and
hyssop, should be sown now in a dry sunny spot. Sow a little kohlrabi
towards the close of the month; re-sow leeks. Keep up a succession
of lettuce, sowing in frames and planting out. Sow maize in boxes
in pits; harden off for transplanting at the end of May. Sow winter
onions, and parsley for roots. Keep sowing peas for succession.
Sow salsify and scorzonera early in the month in deep rich soil.
Renew sowing of seakale in any good deep soil. Sow spinach (prickly
seeded), and have a succession of turnips, freely hoeing and thinning
as they come on. Sow vegetable marrow in gentle heat.
Let lawns be regularly rolled and mowed, and weeds rooted out. On
thin places scratch up the surface with an iron rake, sow some seed,
dress with fine soil and wood-ashes, and finish by bush harrowing
and rolling. Mulch newly planted roses, shrubs, and trees, and well
water in dry weather. Set out golden lilies from their winter frames
among shrubs. Keep up potting and boxing cuttings. Plant hardy edging
flowers, and those for carpet-bedding. Divide and re-plant violets,
which, if massed in a border, can be taken up in October, put in a
frame, and will then continue flowering through the winter. Make two
sowings of hardy annuals, one early the other late in the month;
cover the seeds very lightly. Beware of slugs as soon as the plants
show up. Sow half-hardy annuals in the frame prepared for them, in
shallow drills, and shade with mats till the plants appear; apply
tepid water through a very fine rose, air when the weather permits,
and prick out in frames to harden gradually when large enough. Sow
perennials and give them the same care as the last-named group.
_May._--Every vegetable may be sown in this month, and it will often
happen that seeds sown out of doors now will afford better plants
than those sown previously in heat and gradually hardened. This said
hardening process demands the most constant wariness. Thin asparagus
seed-beds, scatter dry litter as a protection on the bearing beds,
and cut shoots for table in a regular manner. Beans will hardly
pay for sowing now; top the plants when in flower if black fly is
present. Sow dwarf and runner kidney beans for summer supply. Make
an early sowing of winter beet. Sow broccoli for succession and put
out as convenient. Plant out the most forward Brussels sprouts for
an early crop in a sunny spot; it is rather late for further sowing.
Cabbage may be continually sown and planted out. Sow capsicums in
the open in the second half of the month, and plant out from hotbeds
in warmest localities. Thin carrots, and sow a little seed to afford
a crop of miniature ones in late summer. Plant out cauliflower as
weather and ground admit, providing shelter on cold nights and
abundant water. In forward situations, celery may be planted out in
well-damped trenches and kept well watered. Sow and plant cucumbers
in large frames and out of doors, selecting the sorts. Sow dandelion
for next spring’s salads, and endive for autumn and winter use. Keep
on sowing and planting out lettuce, not neglecting water and shade.
Sow melons in frames, which need a high temperature; never shade
after first planting. Sow and plant out New Zealand spinach on poor
but sunny ground. Sow pickling onions in poor soil and allow to
grow as thickly as possible. Renew sowings of peas, if needed. Sow
Savoy cabbages for small hearts for early winter consumption. Plant
out tomatoes in warm weather, choosing sunny spots. Sow turnips for
succession. Plant out vegetable marrows and their allies (gourds,
pumpkins, &c.) in warm weather, and cultivate like common “ridge”
cucumbers, covering during cold nights.
Attend to lawn and footpaths, and plentifully water flowering shrubs
in dry weather. Apply liquid manure to roses, search for insects and
syringe often; disbud, and remove the weakest shoots and all suckers
from the stocks. Lift plants which have done flowering; divide and
replant them for autumn use. Propagate cuttings from them under
glass. Lift bulbs, and spread them in a warm place to mature, storing
as soon as the tops are dead. Dig and dress the borders ready for
summer bedding-plants, which must now be hardened. Use soft tepid
water only. Bed out the hardiest plants in good weather at the close
of the month, beginning with calceolarias, verbenas, &c. Plant
hollyhocks and pentstemons around shrubberies and in mixed borders,
securing them to stakes. Thin hardy annuals and perennials, and sow
again for the later season. Stake and tie out plants needing it.
Plant out tender annuals when forward enough.
_June._--Pay attention to weeding and watering, and remember with
reference to the latter that it is better to water less often and
copiously than frequently and in driblets. When the supply is short,
reserve it for newly planted stuff. Dress asparagus with salt and
liquid manure; cease cutting about mid-June. A few beans may still be
sown for late crop. Plant out broccoli, and sow a little seed for the
next April cutting. Sow plenty of cabbage and greens to put out as
the ground becomes empty. Plant out, water, and shade cauliflowers,
and sow for the autumn crop. Plant out celery, and give plenty of
water and shade. Sow pickling cucumbers (gherkins) in the open.
Repeat sowing and planting lettuce. Sow mushroom spawn in cucumber
frames or in heaps of horse-dung. Sow salad onions and thin out
keeping sorts. A few peas (earliest kinds) may still be sown. Sow
turnips abundantly in the last week, hastening the early growth, then
thinning well.
Keep shrubberies well hoed, remove or shorten sprawling branches, and
gather seed vessels. Trim box edging. Thin and tie shoots of climbing
shrubs. Mulch rose bushes, and never cease hunting for grubs. Hasten
the filling of borders with bedding plants, avoiding too fine a
surface to the soil. Plant strong-growing things deep, and press the
soil well about them, not omitting stakes and pegs when wind may do
damage. Let subtropical plants have good deep soil and shelter from
shrubberies. Plant chrysanthemums and dahlias in mixed borders and
around shrubberies. Keep the hoe going everywhere, and remove all
dead flower-stalks except such as are needed for seed. Propagate
cuttings of pansies and wallflowers; sow mignonette and sweet peas
for late returns; sow and prick out stocks, and do not cease planting
tender annuals, such as asters.
_July._--Watering is the most important item in this month, even
though occasionally showery. Avoid nuisance from rotting refuse by
digging it into trenches. Sow a few early dwarf beans. Broccoli for
succession may still be planted out, not forgetting the water; also
sow walcheren. Sow several kinds of cabbage in some quantity. Thin
out cardoons. Water and fork among cauliflower, and shade young heads
from too much sun. Plant out celery, and sow a little seed for a
supply for soups if liked. Water ridge and frame cucumbers with soft
sunned water abundantly at intervals of some days. Sow endive early
and late in the month, and plant out in frames or sheltered beds when
ready. Take up garlic, onions and shallots when fully ripe, and plant
out leeks in trenches as celery. Sow parsley. A few early peas may be
sown still. Lift potatoes as soon as mature, leaving the foliage to
finish withering afterwards; plant a few of a quick growing sort for
digging as “new” in the autumn. Sow black Spanish radishes for winter
crop. Make an early and plentiful sowing of turnips, and keep them
thinned and weeded. Plant out abundance of winter green-stuff, in
well-dug land, and water if needful.
Do not neglect the lawn; daisy-heads are best removed by a scythe.
Cut back expanding shrubs, and trim box-edging and hedges, using
the knife for large-leaved growths. Supply rose bushes with liquid
manure, and begin budding when the sap flows freely and the bark
commences to peel; take cuttings late in the month. Weed and fork
round bedding plants and regulate edging plants, leading out and
pegging down specimens required to fill a certain vacancy. Freely
administer liquid manure to strong subtropical plants in dry weather.
Lay carnations, cloves, and picotees, and prick out stocks and other
seedlings. Get a shady bed ready for cuttings of pinks, taken at the
third or fourth joint on bottom shoots from old plants. Take cuttings
of wallflowers and pansies, potting or planting out the former, and
transplanting the latter when rooted. Hoe round, trim, water, and
thoroughly syringe violets. Stake and thin out chrysanthemums, freely
dosing with liquid manure.
_August._--Autumn seed-sowing demands the greatest care, to ensure
the ground being previously sufficiently moist, and to avoid having
the plants too forward when frosts commence. Cut down artichokes
as soon as the heads are taken. Plant out broccoli where they will
have a low screen against the north wind. Sow Brussels sprouts
for spring planting out. Renew sowings and plantings of cabbages.
Sow cauliflower in shelter or frames for spring growth, and water
standing heads in driest weather. Earth-up celery when well grown.
Sow corn salad for spring use. Plant out endive in shelter, and sow
a little more. Sow hardy lettuce in a dry poor plot for winter and
spring supplies. Make a couple of sowings (early and late) of several
kinds of onion to stand the winter; take up and sun-dry the ripe
crop. Sow prickly spinach at both ends of the month. Cut tomatoes and
hang indoors in the sun to mature. Make a final sowing of turnips for
spring crop.
Continue industrious in weeding, cleaning, trimming, pegging, and
staking the flower beds, and begin to propagate cuttings. With the
latter, commence with those which straggle and weak-growing kinds of
plant first in order. Strike flowers of the heliotrope and verbena
class in pots, put in a cold frame, shaded and watered. Look after
dahlias, staking, thinning, and applying liquid manure. Propagate
pansies and phloxes, and stake chrysanthemums and gladioli. Bud,
thin, and well water roses.
_September._--Weeding now demands more energy than is often devoted
to it, and the remains of gathered crops must be cleared off. Keep on
planting all available ground with cabbage while plants last. Plant
out winter cauliflower, and re-sow a little under cover. Earth-up
celery. Plant out and blanche endive; ditto lettuce, and make
occasional fresh sowings where dry and open. Thin parsley by pulling
out whole plants as wanted; cut down the strongest plants to induce
fresh growth. Take up potatoes before wet weather sets in. Thin
spinach when well up.
Harden all rooted cuttings of flowers by thorough ventilation of the
frames. Keep up watering and vermin-hunting. Remove dead leaves and
blooms from pelargoniums, and pinch out the points of heliotropes,
verbenas, &c. Well weed and water the reserve of daisies,
forget-me-nots, &c. Stake all plants needing it. Select firm and
well-matured bulbs for flowering in beds, embracing crocus, hyacinth,
narcissus, ranunculus, snowdrop, tulip, &c. At the end of the month
sow hardy annuals for next spring flowers. Plant out seedling
perennials where they are to remain, so that they may get well rooted
before frosts come. Sever layers of carnations, clove-pinks, and
picotees when rooted, and pot them in cold frames, protected from
sun and rain. Plant out pinks that have been rooted under frames.
Continue budding roses, and loosen tiers which are injuring the bark.
Trim and secure all climbers. Prepare for planting pansies.
_October._--Keep every part of the garden freed from fallen leaves
and decaying rubbish, which should be dug into trenches as manure.
Let the hoe be kept going where it cannot injure roots or stems.
Dig all vacant ground and throw it up in the rough, so that the
frost may penetrate. When digging, manure if the land is cold and
heavy. Clear off asparagus beds and cover them with a good coat of
half-rotten stable dung. Take up beet. Finish up cabbage planting at
once. Earth-up and tie round cardoons. Take up carrots for storing;
weed and thin the young crop. Plant out cauliflower. Earth-up celery,
and prepare to cover it during frost. Blanche full-grown endive
as required. Plant garlic in warm dry ground. Keep on planting
lettuce. Take up parsnips for storing or as needed. Take up and store
potatoes. Plant potato-onions in dry warm ground. Take up rhubarb for
forcing and lay it by in a dry but cold place. Take up salsify for
store. Plant winter greens on the chance of a mild winter.
This is the time for planting trees and shrubs. In advance of the
frost, lift all flowers intended for keeping through the winter, not
neglecting a good supply of pelargoniums. Propagate sturdy cuttings
of calceolarias. Clean, dig, and manure all emptied flower-beds,
and plant them with bulbs and hardy annuals for the spring show of
flowers. Divide and transplant herbaceous plants.
_November._--Maintain the activity in cleaning, trenching, and
manuring; take in new ground where wanted; repair paths and fences;
and be prepared with means of protecting things from frost. Scatter
some litter among but not upon globe artichokes; lift and store
Jerusalem artichokes. Complete unfinished asparagus beds. Sow
beans in really warm dry land for the first crop. Cover remaining
cauliflowers, or cut and store them in a dry shed. If much wet
threatens, take up celery and store like cauliflower heads.
Plant garlic. Take up and store horseradish, and re-plant. Plant
potato-onions. Sow several sorts of early peas in a very warm, dry,
sunny spot. Plant potatoes where the soil is light. Lift seakale for
forcing in cellars or pits.
Lift all flowering plants which will suffer from frost. Finish
planting beds of bulbs and other spring flowers. Complete the
planting of trees and shrubs. Pay special attention to the watering,
protection and ventilation of bedding plants, taking care to exclude
frost and damp, and remove insects and decaying matter. Collect and
dig in falling leaves and other garden refuse. Mulch between standing
plants, especially around the stems, and secure a quantity of dry
bracken or similar material for general covering and protecting
purposes.
_December._--Continue the efforts of last month in making
preparations for the ensuing spring--clearing, digging, repairing,
&c. Earth-up beans and celery, and provide a little covering for the
latter. Give endive every protection. Put a hand frame over outdoor
parsley or have some in a frame. Earth-up peas, and hand pick them
free from drifted dead leaves. Prepare a warm border for early spring
work, making it as light and rich as possible.
Carry on trenching and leaf-gathering, and roll lawns and paths. The
draining of lawns and flower-beds can now be executed. Let spring
flowering plants have the same attention as in January, and bedding
plants the same as in November. Do not omit to help the branches of
delicate trees to withstand the effects of snow and wind by tying
them up with rope yarn (tarred twine).
SUPPLEMENTARY LITERATURE.
Robert Thompson: ‘The Gardener’s Assistant; Practical and
Scientific.’ London. Latest edition. 35_s._
See also p. 1012.
_DOMESTIC MOTORS._
It is an acknowledged fact that when an establishment has developed
sufficiently to necessitate the employment of a considerable amount
of manual labour to meet its various requirements, it is more
economical and satisfactory in results to introduce mechanical labour
in one or more of its many forms; this especially applies to country
residences, where wood cutting, chaff and root cutting, pumping, &c.,
has to be done, and the machines of the dairy, laundry, &c., need
propelling, and the same engine can be also utilised for electric
lighting, as the light is only needed when the other machines are at
rest. The superiority of mechanical over manual labour is obvious and
the economy is now fully acknowledged. An engine has the advantage
of executing the work with perfect regularity, the last hour’s work
being executed as well and as rapidly as the first, and it works all
day, and every day and, if desired, all night; and the one motor, if
of sufficient power, is capable of being adapted to so many different
purposes, together or independently.
[Illustration: 181. Windmill.]
_Wind._--Wind engines or mills have the decided advantage of being
very economical, but are necessarily irregular in action and are only
suited for high or open situations. They are rarely of practical
use in towns, or where buildings, trees, &c., exist in any size or
number, but where the situation is favourable they are to be highly
commended for several purposes, pumping especially. They invariably
take the form of a strong vertical structure or framework, surmounted
with the mechanism to which the sails are attached, and from which
is carried a shaft to the base (somewhat similar to Miller’s wind
mills). Warner & Co., of Cripplegate, London, make a specialty of
these motors, adapted for numberless purposes, and in which high
powers are attainable. Fig. 181 shows an annular sailed wind engine,
as applied for pumping; it will be understood that the engine can be
stood immediately over the well, or it can be fixed in some more
convenient and suitable position and connected with the well by shaft
or by pipe.
The illustration will acquaint the reader with details more fully,
and it will be noticed that these engines are self-regulating, i.e.
means are provided to shift the position of the sail automatically
as the wind varies; in the larger sizes “striking” gear is fitted
for setting the blades of the sail out of the wind when needed. The
illustration represents a No. 2 Warner’s wind engine, with 10 ft.
sail, price 25_l._, including pump and timber supports; this size is
capable of raising 240 gal. of water per hour 50 ft. high, but the
sizes may be smaller or larger as the requirements demand; after the
first cost the expense is comparatively ended, as only lubrication is
needed.
_Water._--Water wheels also have the advantage of being economical,
and greater reliance can be placed on the regularity of water than in
wind power; but it is only for those that have rivers, streams, &c.,
at disposal. Those that are favourably situated cannot too highly
prize the power they possess, as very regular and very high powers
can be obtained _at will_ and at a moment’s notice, free of cost
(excepting first outlay), and requiring scarcely any attention.
[Illustration: 182. Water wheel.]
Water wheels are of three kinds, viz. overshot, breast, and
undershot; as the names signify, the water flows over, or to the
breast, or under the wheel, the difference in construction consisting
in the shape of the blades on the wheel’s circumference. The first
of the three is undoubtedly the most powerful, as not only is the
impulse of the flowing water imparted to the blades, but the blades
themselves are so constructed that they retain a portion of the water
for about a third of a revolution and thus very materially assist by
gravitation; the breast wheel is driven by the weight of the water
retained by the blades only, and the undershot wheel is driven by the
impulse of the water flowing beneath.
Warner & Co., of Cripplegate, London, make a specialty of these
machines. Fig. 182 shows an overshot wheel adapted for pumping pure
water from a well, and delivering it at any high elevation while
being worked by a stream of impure water.