the phantom to overpower and conceal the colour and features of a
corresponding substance. In “Metamorphoses,” this is made evident by
the facility shown in causing the human figure to take the form of a
branching tree, which the wizard can readily disenchant, reproducing
a living actor or actress. By such means the classic stories of Ovid,
or the sprightly and wonderful creations of the Arabian Nights, may
be set before an admiring audience; and when the changes cannot be
exactly thus realised, the mechanical arrangements for turning one
actor from and another actor into view, aided by screens, is so
exceedingly simple as to render minute details superfluous. Actors
may appear to dress and change with the rapidity of lightning; age
may become youth, and _vice versâ_; and even, a gorilla might step
forth an altered creature to trip the “light fantastic toe!”
In some scenes the peculiarity may consist in the spectre passing off
undiscovered, and only be traced by its phantom accompaniments, as in
“The Doubtful Visitor,” who sitting on the same couch with a lady,
departs without any other strangeness of action than leaving behind
some portions of her phantom dress.
In pantomime and legerdemain the Optical Illusions eclipse every
extravaganza hitherto conceived for making the “eyes the fools o’ the
other senses.” And what is still more remarkable, this portion of the
subject is so exceedingly simple to perform that, although short,
yet sufficient directions will be found in the description of scenes
under the respective titles of “Pantomime” and “Jugglers.”
These few observations appeared requisite to impress on the general
reader that each of the preceding scenes involves some peculiarity
in arrangement to produce the effect described, and that, therefore,
they are not all on one model. Some show the actors apart, some
together, and afterwards separate; some with and some without
machinery of any kind; some with phantom actors, others with only
phantom dresses or furniture; and others again employing animals, as
the horse, dog, &c.
The mechanical portion of the arrangements are too various to enter
upon in minute description, but they are generally of such a nature
as any practical workman employed on theatrical machinery will
readily understand. The modes of arranging the transparent mirror
are as numerous as in the employment of ordinary mirrors. It may
be used framed, or for some purposes without any frame whatever;
it may be suspended and slide on framework placed above, by means
of pulleys, thus leaving the stage floor free from any grooving or
any raised portion. Or, it may be made to swing like a hinged door,
whether hinged at top, bottom, or either side. Or, it may turn on
centres, so as to be half in and half out, when turned to right
angles with its common position, being thus capable of regulation to
any desired angle. It is also obvious that the position of the mirror
necessitates a corresponding change in the placing of the spectre
stage, so that the one shall always be opposite the other. As it is
not requisite to cover the entire front of the stage with one or more
mirrors, their use may often be artistically concealed by pillars,
trees, or similar devices, in which case the spectral effects will
be limited to such mirrored portions. When out of use, these large
mirrors can be made to slide, sink, or rise, as done with the scenes
in general use.
=Games.=--Space being limited, choice is made here of a few games not
generally known.
_Bézique_ (Polish).--Polish bézique, sometimes called open bézique,
or Fildinski, is played by 2 persons in the same way as ordinary
bézique, except in the following particulars. The tricks are not left
on the table at Polish bézique, but are thus disposed of: 7’s, 8’s,
9’s, and 10’s (except the 10’s of trumps) are turned face down on the
table as soon as a trick containing any of them is completed. These
cards must not be looked at again during the hand. Other cards, which
are cards that can be used in declaring, are taken by the winner of
the trick, and placed by him face up on the table close in front of
himself, in rows, consisting of aces, kings, queens, and knaves, and
of the 10’s of trumps. At the end of the hand all cards that can be
used in declaring are thus exposed or open on the table. Having been
once played, they can only be used in declaring, and cannot be played
a second time. Whether declared or not, they remain open during the
hand and the play of the last 8 tricks.
Declarations can only be made from open cards, and never from cards
held in the player’s hand. This is the fundamental difference between
Polish and ordinary bézique. As soon as a trick is won containing
a card or cards that can be used in declaring, those cards are
transferred to the open cards (if any) already in possession of the
winner of the trick, and as soon as a card is won that completes a
scoring combination, the declaration is made and the score marked.
For example. A. has 3 open queens, and he wins a trick containing a
queen. Before drawing again, he places the fourth queen in the row
which contains the other 3 queens, and scores 60 for queens.
The 7 of trumps can be exchanged for the turn up when a trick is won
with it, but not when a trick is won with another card by a player
who holds the 7 in his hand. Similarly the 7, if not exchanged,
can be declared when a trick is won with it. If the 7 of trumps is
played, and is won with a higher trump, the winner of the trick
declares or exchanges the 7. The principle is the same throughout,
viz. that declarations are made only out of cards won, and by the
winner of them.
At Polish bézique compound declarations are allowed, i.e. all the
scores that can be made when cards are added to open cards are
made at once, and the same card may be declared more than once (in
combinations of a different class), without waiting to win another
trick. The ordinary rule that a card once declared cannot be again
declared in combinations of the same class, e.g. a king once married
cannot be married again; a fifth ace added to 4 aces already declared
does not entitle to reckon aces over again.
As examples of compound declarations take the following: A. wins the
queen of faintest possible tinge--the shadow or phantom appearing to
overwhelm the coloured trumps with the king. He has in his open cards
3 kings, 4 queens, and the ace, 10, knave of trumps. He declares
royal marriage (40), 4 kings (80), but not 4 queens, as he cannot
again reckon any of the 4 queens already declared in that class of
combination, and sequence (250), in all 370.
Again, the ace of spades is turned up, and the ace of hearts is led.
The second player wins the ace of hearts with the 7 of trumps, and
exchanges the 7 for the turn up. He scores 10 for the exchange, and
10 for each of the aces he adds to his open cards--in all 30. If at
the same time he were in possession of 2 other open aces, he would
score 100 more for 4 aces.
At Polish bézique aces and 10’s must be declared as soon as the trick
is won, and not at the end of the hand, a mode of scoring preferred
by some players at ordinary bézique.
In the play of the hand it is not compulsory to follow suit nor
to win the trick, and a player may win the trick by trumping
notwithstanding that he holds a card of the suit led. But in the
last 8 tricks suit must be followed if the second player has one of
the suit led. The trick in the last 8 tricks must also be won by the
second player if he has a higher card of the suit than the one led.
If he has none of the suit led, and has a trump, he must win the card
led by trumping.
Declarations do not cease at Polish bézique when playing the last 8
tricks. They are made just as in the early part of the hand after
winning a trick and before leading again.
Polish bézique is generally played 2000 up, as the average scores are
considerably higher than at ordinary bézique.
_Block._ Implements.--A board as in Fig. 105, the figures not being
necessary, except when the game is played by correspondence--they are
placed here to simplify the examples--16 pegs, and 2 King pegs; 12
pegs and the King pegs being required for play, the 4 remaining pegs
are a reserve force of 2 for each player.
Play.--Divide the pegs, one player taking the White, the other the
Black. The first to play is decided by lot. Each player then places
a peg into one of the holes in turn, occupying those which he may
consider the most advantageous, until the 12 pegs and the 2 King pegs
have been placed. Then each moves one of his pegs in turn, but only
one hole at a time, and as the lines run.
Points of the Game.--To Block, to Force, and to Make a Line.
(_a_) To block is to get a peg on each side of one of your
adversary’s: this, if an ordinary peg, is its capture, and it is
immediately removed off the board.
[Illustration: 105. Block.]
Example.--Black having a peg in 1, and White playing a peg in 2,
Black captures that peg by playing a peg in 3; but White having a peg
in 4 can capture Black’s peg in 3 by playing another peg in 2; or
White having pegs in 1, 10, and 24, and Black a peg in 9 could block
Black’s peg by playing peg 24 either into 17 or 16.
But to block the King peg, the other holes surrounding him must
be filled, though it is of no consequence by whose pegs. To block
the King peg is game. His only means of escape is by immediately
capturing one of the pegs blocking; if he cannot do this, and cannot
move, the game is over.
Example.--Black’s King peg being in 3, and White having a peg in 4,
is not blocked by White placing a peg in 2, because the hole 11 is
unoccupied. Or supposing Black to occupy 11 (King peg), and 3, and
White 2, 12 and 19, the game would be lost to Black by White playing
2 to 10, which blocks the King; but if Black had a peg in 17, 16 or 1
to immediately play into 9 he would capture 10, which is one of the
blocking pegs, and so liberate the King peg. The other blocking peg
is 12. Capturing 19 would be of no avail, neither would moving his
own peg 3.
(_b_) To force is to get 2 pegs on a line with one of your
adversary’s, in which case you force him to move that peg to the
first vacant hole on its square, in whichever direction it may occur,
and in the event of there not being one vacant on its square, to
whichever square has the nearest.
Example.--Black, occupying hole 1, could force White from hole 3 by
placing a peg in hole 2 in which case White’s peg 3 would have to
move to 4; or by occupying holes 11 and 19, when White would have 2
holes at equal distance--4 and 2; and could move into either unless
the forcer gave the preference.
If the King peg be forced, a peg is thereby gained from the reserve
which is placed in the hole vacated by the King.
(_c_) To make a line is to get 3 of your pegs on one line in any way
but diagonally, in which case the third or last peg moved to make the
line can be at once removed to any vacant hole on the board.
Example.--By occupying holes 1 2 3, 2 10 18, 9 10 11; in fact any way
but from corner to corner as 1 9 17 or 19 11 3.
If your adversary insists upon maintaining a peg in a hole to your
great disadvantage, play your pegs so as to force him from it,
having first prepared a hole for him to move into. That is to say,
be careful that the hole you force him into does not attack your
position, as--Black’s pegs in 2, 4, and 7; White’s pegs in 1 and
6; now Black, moving peg 4 to 3, forces White’s peg 1, which is
compelled to move to hole 8, and so captures Black’s peg 7. On the
contrary, if Black occupied holes 2, 6, 7, 9, 11, and White holes 1,
4, 5, by Black playing peg 11 into 3, White’s peg 1 is forced into 8,
and it being Black’s next move, he occupies hole 1 with his 9 peg, or
2 peg, and so captures the peg he forced. The great point is to place
the pegs in a good position at the commencement of the game.
Rules.--1. Each player places one peg in turn, and when all are
placed, moves in the same manner, but only as the lines run, and one
hole at a time.
2. A force made during the placing of the pegs does not interfere
with that player’s turn; that is to say, if White in playing the
pegs occupies hole 1, and Black hole 3, Black would be forced by
White taking hole 2 and would have to move, but would immediately
afterwards place his peg as was his turn.
3. The placing of a peg gained from the reserve into the hole vacated
by King peg does not count as a move, consequently any advantage so
gained is _nil_.
4. The playing a peg when forced counts the same as its move, and
reaps any advantage gained by occupying the hole it is forced into.
5. A forced peg, having the preference of 2 holes to move into, can
be compelled by the forcer to occupy either.
6. A made block or made force is of no advantage; that is to say, if
Black occupied holes 1 and 3, White could put a peg in hole 2 without
being captured; or Black possessing holes 1 and 2, White could place
a peg in 3 without being forced. The same applies to a peg when
forced into such a position.
7. Any advantage gained in a move, and not noticed before the next
move, cannot be counted.
8. A person drawing a peg is compelled to move it, and on the event
of its being placed in a hole, must there leave it.
9. A peg played to force or block cannot claim the advantage of a
line if it make one by so playing, for instance, Black in 1, 6, 8,
and 23, a white peg being in 15; Black by playing 6 to 7 can either
take it as a line or block 15, but not both. Neither can 2 pegs be
forced or blocked in the one move. The player has the preference in
each case. A peg can, however, block and force in the one move.
Example.--White occupying holes 9 and 8, and Black holes 15 and 24,
Black by getting a peg into 16 forces both 8 and 9; he therefore
compels his adversary to move whichever is most to the forcer’s
advantage. Or white in 10, 19, 13, with Black in 9 and 12, captures
peg 12, and forces peg 9, by moving from 19 to 11.
10. A player, whose turn it is to move, having his pegs so surrounded
that he cannot--draws the game.
11. A player having the whole of his pegs (9) on the board can gain
no more by forcing the King.
12. A game being reduced to only 3 pegs on the board can be drawn, if
not won in 20 moves. (H. E. Heather, _Amateur Chess Magazine_.)
_Chancery._--This new round game at cards requires no tuition, and
can be played by the smallest child, and by any number.
If the company does not exceed 5 or 6, one pack of cards is
sufficient; if it does exceed that number, extra cards are preferable.
A pool is then subscribed, say 5 counters by each player; that is
generally enough to keep it floating for some time, though should it
run out another subscription is called for immediately.
The cards are then scattered in the centre of the table, with their
faces downwards. Each player then draws one in turn, displaying it
before him and calling what it is. Should it only be an ordinary card
or picture drawn each time let the cards drawn lie in a heap before
the player; should aces be drawn spread them conspicuously in front
of the others.
The cards to score points are:
1. The majority in possession when all are drawn.
2. The majority of court cards.
3. Every ace.
4. Every ace to which you have also drawn the deuce of the same suit.
Should any player draw the deuce of the same suit as an ace drawn
he calls the owner’s attention to the fact, who immediately places
the ace with his other cards, it being “killed” and reduced in
value. Should a deuce be drawn before the ace of its suit it must be
replaced with the others again, and another card be taken, the cards
being previously shuffled. A player drawing the deuce of the same
suit as an ace in his possession places it upon the ace, and keeps
them separate from the others, as they score the most points. If a
card drawn pairs with the player on either side, the person drawing
the pairing card has immediately to pass all his cards to the one so
paired, and pay a forfeit of one point to the pool.
When all the cards have been taken the pool-master (it is best always
to appoint one player to occupy this post, or confusion is apt to
ensue) pays out the points scored as follows:
1. For the majority of cards, 1 point.
2. For each ace on which the deuce has not been drawn, 2 points.
3. For majority of pictures, 3 points.
4. For each ace on which the deuce has been drawn, 4 points.
The cards are then mixed for a fresh start, and the pool again
subscribed if run low.
Laws.--1. Each player to take but one card, and in turn; departure
from this rule a fine of one to the pool.
2. If a deuce is drawn before the ace, it is to be replaced; if drawn
after the ace, and replaced in mistake, it cannot be recovered,
provided the ace was conspicuously displayed; the player so doing
loses his turn and pays one to the pool.
3. A player turning a card other than that he draws pays one to the
pool.
4. A player pairing with the last card drawn by the person on either
side of him passes all his cards to that player and pays one to the
pool. Should it so happen that he pairs with both, the one on the
left has the preference.
5. It is not necessary that a player should have any cards in his
possession to be paired with; the last card he drew, whether he has
lost it or not, is the one to count.
6. Any dispute to be settled by pool-master.
7. Pool-master to be chosen for each game if desired. (H. E. Heather).
_Dominoes._--A set of dominoes usually consists of 28 oblong cards,
each consisting of 2 squares united; no 2 pieces are alike, they
being distinguished by pips. It is important for the learner to bear
in mind that there are 7 dominoes of each number, and that each
number is joined to one of each of the others. The calculations of
the game are founded on these facts.
Dominoes are usually made with bone or ivory faces and ebony backs.
They are shuffled, or “made,” as it is technically termed, by being
turned downwards on the table, and mixed quickly by a light pressure
and rapid movement with the hands.
On the Continent, where the game is usually played on a marble or
hardwood table, the dominoes have frequently a projecting metal stud
in the middle of the face; this enables them to be mixed with greater
facility on smooth surfaces, but prevents their being effectually
shuffled on one covered with a cloth, unless a large sheet of
cardboard is interposed. Care should be taken that the back of the
dominoes should not be stained or marked, as, if only one is thus
capable of being distinguished, it lessens in the highest degree the
interest of the game. They should be of good size, as small sets are
very inconvenient to play with, and of sufficient thickness to stand
firmly on their edges, with their faces turned towards the player and
their backs towards his opponent.
As the game usually played is 100, a marker is convenient to score
the successive additions made by each player. On the Continent very
convenient markers are used; but there is a simple plan of making
them extemporaneously with a visiting card. This is to be cut as
shown in Fig. 106.
[Illustration: 106. Domino Marker.]
By turning back the nicks along the dotted lines the number marked
on each is scored; a card so notched will score up to 99, and will
answer for a large number of games before it becomes useless by the
nicks breaking off.
The dominoes having been shuffled face downwards on the table, one of
the two players pushes 2 towards the other, who selects one of the
two, leaving the other for his opponent. Both are then turned up,
and the player who has the highest number has the lead, or “pose,”
as it is called. In England it is frequent for the holder of the 6-6
(double six) to pose first--a stupid plan, as it quite spoils the
first hand, inasmuch as 6-6 may be a very bad domino to play from the
dominoes held.
The 2 dominoes drawn and exposed are again mixed with the others, the
non-leader mixing for them last. Each player then selects 7 dominoes;
the leader plays one, placing it face upwards on the table, and the
opponent matches it from his own hand, playing at either end as he
thinks fit.
Thus, if the first player plays 4-5, the second may play either a 5
to his 5, or, should he think it more advantageous, a 4 to the 4,
thus:
If a double is played first, which gives the second player only one
number to play to, it is usual to place the double in a cross.
In either case the first player plays again, and so on alternately
until one or other has played out, when he scores the pips on the
domino or dominoes remaining in his opponent’s hand.
If one player cannot play at either end, he says “go,” when his
opponent plays on until some number is posed to which he can play.
If neither can play, both hands are shown, and the one that has the
fewest pips wins the score, which should consist of the whole of the
opponent’s pips as well as his own added together. After a score
the dominoes are turned and mixed, the pose or lead being taken
alternately.
Persons who know but little of the game think that the best play
is at once to get rid of the heaviest dominoes, but this is not
necessarily the case; but with a heavy hand, every care should be
taken not to let the opponent close the game leaving you with a heavy
score. In this most simple English game the aim of the player should
be to make his long suit, and prevent his opponent playing.
Following are a few examples of hands played in the ordinary English
game with 7 pieces. In this game the player sees his whole hand of
seven at once, and he knows that his opponent has also seven, or
one-third of the remainder; the other 14 dominoes are untouched,
and he can make his calculations and play his game accordingly. In
this game, each player plays alternately, until one or other has
played all his dominoes, when he scores the number of pips left in
his opponent’s hand. Should either be unable to play, the other
continues until he brings a card to which his opponent can play.
Should both players be unable to play, then the one who has the least
number of pips scores, not only those in his opponent’s hand, but his
own also. To give an example. Suppose 2 players, A. and B., playing
the English game, and having drawn for pose, A. plays first from the
following hand:--6-6, 5-2, 5-0, 4-3, 4-0, 2-2, 2-1.
An inexperienced player would probably play his 6-6, that being a
heavy card, and in all probability he would lose the score if his
opponent had 2 or 3 sixes in his hand.
The proper play would be the 2-2, as it gives B. only one number to
play to, and if, as not unfrequently happens, B. has no twos, A. has
the chance of a splendid game.
Let us take B.’s hand as follows:--6-4, 6-3, 6-1, 5-4, 5-1, 3-0, 1-1.
A. plays 2-2. As B. cannot play, A. plays again, selecting the
card of which he has most (so as to lessen B.’s chance as much as
possible), this would be the 2-5, as he has 2 fives in his hand and
only a single one. If B. plays 5-1, which offers his best chance of
success, A. will play 1-2, and the game will be shut up. On counting
the pips, A. will be found to have 22 and B. 46. A. consequently
scores 68 towards the game of 100.
If, on the contrary, A. plays the 6-6, he may lose, and he cannot
possibly win as many as he could have done with the previous play.
If B. replies to 6-6 with 6-1, A. would then play 1-2, B. 6-4, A.
2-2, B. 4-5, A. would close the game by making 2-all, viz. 2 at both
ends, by placing 5-2 to the 5 end, and his score would be 36, made up
of B.’s 20 pips and A.’s own 16.
A hand with 3 or 4 of any one number is better than a hand with only
2 of each sort, even supposing the first to be much the heavier, as
it gives a command of the game, and enables the holder to shut his
adversary out and to play his own dominoes as he likes, closing the
game if he thinks fit.
Thus take the following hands, A. to play first with the heavy
pieces, viz.: 6-6, 6-4, 6-3, 6-1, 5-4, 5-2, 5-1, and B. to be his
opponent with the light hand: 5-0, 4-1, 3-3, 3-1, 2-2, 2-1.
If A. commences with 6-6, B. must lose, provided A. plays with the
most ordinary skill.
The principle of the game is to play so as to bring the numbers of
which you hold most (and therefore in all probability your opponent
least) at the ends; by this means you play out more dominoes than he
does, and you often have the opportunity of closing the game. But
this must be done with judgment, for it sometimes may happen that the
player who shuts up the game loses, as his opponent may have a less
number than he has, and win the score. It is this uncertainty which
gives interest to the game, for to close the game and win when the
numbers are nearly equal shows the skill and judgment of the player.