Heating by gas is now growing in favour, and under favourable

circumstances is to be recommended. There are two general methods

adopted; firstly, by gas fires, which are asbestos or metal made

incandescent by gas heat; these are made either portable, or by

fitting a specially made burner to an existing fireplace, and filling

the grate with Lumb asbestos (which is made for the purpose, and

when heated has the appearance of glowing coals); and secondly, by

gas stoves acting upon a similar principle to a hot-air coal stove.

The former are now made in great variety; they chiefly take the form

of an ornamental iron frame, in the centre of which is fitted a

fire-brick thickly imbedded in front with asbestos fibre; the burner

beneath comes immediately under the front of the fire-brick, and

when the gas is ignited, the asbestos at once becomes incandescent,

making it of cheerful and fire-like appearance, and the fire-brick in

a few minutes becomes highly heated, radiating its warmth into the

room. This description of stove and also the burner for existing

fireplaces can be obtained at any ironmongers or gas-fitters.

In nearly all gas fires and stoves the gas is burnt with an admixture

of air (atmospheric gas, 1 of gas and 2 of air), by means of an

atmospheric burner; this is not only a source of economy, but

atmospheric gas has the very great advantage of being smokeless; but

for this, a gas fire would be an impossibility; it must, however, be

borne in mind that although smokeless this gas gives off products

of combustion (carbonic acid, watery vapour, &c.), which must be

carried away by a flue or other means. The portable stoves are

always provided with a nozzle for attaching a smoke-pipe. There is

still a doubt as to which is most economical, coal or gas: we cannot

do better than quote the words of a well-known gas-stove maker,

Chas. Wilson, of Leeds. He says, speaking of heating by gas: “It is

not cheaper than coal, taking fuel for fuel and continually used,

unless, as in the case of offices where labour has to be employed

to light fires, clean grates, &c.; but it is cheaper than coal if

occasionally used, as in the case of bedrooms, or sitting-rooms used

by visitors, or rooms used by children for music, &c.; for bedrooms

it is especially adapted for use for an hour or two at night or

in the morning or for giving an unvarying heat all night. It is

preferable in the matter of cleanliness, and a true solution of the

smoke-abatement problem” (probably a coal-stove manufacturer would

speak as much in favour of fire-grates).

It should be seen when purchasing gas fires that they have silent

burners, as some make an objectionable hissing noise when in use.

[Illustration: 45. Calorigen Stove.]

“The Calorigen” Gas Hot-air Stove, Fig. 45 (Farwig & Co., 36 Queen

Street, Cheapside, London), consists of an outer sheet-iron casing

with a burner at the base inside, and proper accommodation for exit

of products of combustion. A coil of good-sized sheet-iron pipe is

affixed within the stove; the lower end of the coil is connected

with the outer air and the upper end opens into the apartment, thus

producing a free inflow of fresh air at any temperature desired, from

60° to 200° F. or higher at will. The chief advantage of a gas stove

is the immediate lighting and extinguishing, and needing no attention.

Another modern and very useful application of gas as a heating

medium is the “Geyser” or rapid water heater for the supply of hot

or boiling water to baths, lavatories, &c., or for business purposes

where it is not convenient or desirable to fit up a circulating

boiler (see hot-water apparatus). These heaters can be obtained from

any ironmonger’s or gasfitter’s. The principle is somewhat different

in the various makes, but it all results in the same thing, which

is to bring a small volume of water in contact with a large heating

surface. The apparatus is generally cylindrical in form. A cock is

at one side for attaching the cold supply, and the heated water

flows out from a spout at the other side; there is also a cock for

attaching the gas supply; they are made in various sizes to supply

and fill a bath three parts full of water at 100° F. in 5, 10 or 15

minutes, or to boil water at the rate of ½, 1 or 2 gal. per minute.

These are extremely useful appliances where gas is available, being

ready for use at a moment’s notice, and the water can be had at any

temperature at will; with a modern and properly constructed “Geyser”

the water is quite suitable for drinking purposes.

The Marsh-Greenall Gas Heating Stove, Fig. 46 (makers, Greenall and

Company, 120 Portland Street, Manchester), is both regenerative and

radiating, the heat developed and utilised per foot of gas by this

system being far greater than by the ordinary atmospheric stoves.

Ordinary luminous flames are used, these being fed by superheated

air. There is no smell and no danger “of lighting back.” The great

heat obtained by this system is radiated from a polished reflector.

The consumption of gas is only 12 ft. per hour. See Gas Heating also,

p. 994.

[Illustration: 46. Marsh-Greenall Gas Stove. 47. Eureka Oil Stove.]

_Oil Stoves._--Warming stoves which burn oil fuel are to be commended

for many purposes, but are not generally considered suitable for

living rooms--bedrooms, for instance--unless the air is continually

changed by open doors, &c., as there is a noticeable odour from

the burning oil. Rippengille’s are considered the best, and are

obtainable at almost any oil, lamp, or ironmonger’s store, or at the

chief retail agents, the Holborn Lamp Co., 118 Holborn, London. Fig.

47 is their “Eureka” cheerful reflector stove, suitable for office

or shop use. These stoves are adapted for warming conservatories

where a high temperature is not required, as a very small stove will

suffice to keep the frost out; they are also suitable for servants’

bedrooms and attics where no fireplaces exist. They are made with

metal (unbreakable) oil containers, which slide out for lighting,

trimming, &c., and they burn the ordinary petroleum oil; it naturally

follows that the better and more refined oils give the best results

with these stoves, with less liability of smell.

_Flues._--It will not be out of place to give a short treatise upon

flues, as the flues in a residence govern the efficiency of the

stoves and the comfort of the whole household.

There is a common error in blaming the flue for all faults. It can

be asserted that half the smoky chimneys are in no way the fault of

the flue at all, and when a smoky chimney does exist, nearly every

one flies to the chimney top with some device to govern the wind, and

this in very many cases is a total failure.

Flues are now generally constructed of two sizes, 9 in. and 14 in. A

7 in. flue would be sufficient for most warming stoves, but it has

to be borne in mind that the accumulation of soot quickly diminishes

the size internally, so that they are now never built less than 9

in. internal diameter. In building a residence, the following plan

is often adopted when cheapness is not the primary object, that is,

to build the usual square brick chimney, and within this to carry up

a 9 in. flue of glazed earthenware pipe (drain pipe), and the space

outside this pipe filled with concrete: this pipe flue is so easily

cleaned and is much less quickly fouled, and improves the draught.

The very general cause of smoky chimneys is that the chimney top is

below the level of some adjacent building, tree, or other object

that obstructs the free passage of the wind. In this instance the

trouble is only experienced when the wind is in certain quarters, and

sometimes this can be cured by a wind-guard or cowl (no particular

make can be recommended, as their efficiency differs under different

circumstances); but the only reliable remedy is to raise the chimney

either by pipe or brickwork to the required height. The manner in

which the annoyance is brought about is, that when the wind passes

over the chimney top its progress is arrested by the higher object,

and it may be said to rebound (the action is rarely quite alike in

any two instances), causing either a portion of the gust to pass a

short way down the chimney or to momentarily stop the up draught;

this will be noticed by the gusts of smoke that come from the stove

into the room.

When the smoke slowly oozes into the room, it is caused by sluggish

draught, or often by the construction of the grate. If the grate

has considerable distance between the fire-bars and the opening

into the chimney above, it permits the heavy cold air to accumulate

and obstruct the heated up-flow from the fire; this generally is

only noticeable when the fire is first lighted or heavily fed. It

is exactly the same result as is experienced with the old-fashioned

open kitchen ranges, which nearly always require a sheet of

metal or “blower” across the opening to prevent their smoking.

The above-mentioned grates require a strong draught to work them

perfectly; or if a strong draught does not exist, a small piece of

sheet-metal should be provided to fit over the open space above the

front bars when necessary to establish the fire, as explained with

the “Eagle” grate.

Sluggish draughts are from a variety of causes, among which might be

named, insufficient height of chimney; chimneys which by any cause

may become damp or cold, or lose their heat rapidly; leakages, holes

or fissures, and a variety of causes too numerous to mention here.

The interior surface of a chimney should be as smooth as possible,

and should be swept at regular and moderately frequent intervals,

otherwise the draught will be reduced.

Every fireplace should have a distinct and separate flue; sometimes

two fireplaces can be successfully worked into one chimney, but

provision must be made for tightly closing off either one when not in

use.

_Hot Water._--Heating by means of the circulation of hot water has

been in vogue many years, but has not found favour for warming

living-rooms and apartments, owing chiefly to the want of the air of

comfort, and the warmth is not quite so agreeable as that radiated

from an open fire; but this mode of heating is especially well

adapted for conservatories, cold halls, public buildings, &c., as the

heat-giving surface can be extended wherever desired, and so heat

the place equally throughout; and upon the low-pressure system there

is no danger, as the water cannot heat higher than boiling-point,

212° F., an advantage that the hot-air system does not possess. The

principle and cause of hot-water circulation will be found fully

described under hot-water apparatus; but in this arrangement there

are no draw-off taps, the services being for circulating only. For

small purposes the apparatus can be attached to the ordinary bath

boiler of the kitchen range; but there is a serious disadvantage

in this when the heat is for conservatories or where warmth is

particularly required at night, as that is the time when the kitchen

fire is not in use. For larger purposes, independent boilers are

used, varying in size according to the requirements. Portable boilers

with fire-box, &c., complete, can be obtained almost anywhere, and

most slow-combustion stoves (the “Tortoise,” for instance) can be

fitted with boilers for this purpose. It will be understood that

these boilers do not require cleaning out like kitchen-range boilers,

as there is no appreciable deposit, the same water being heated day

after day and only losing say a quart per month by evaporation.

The arrangement for a hall with an independent boiler is to have

several horizontal pipes suitably fixed one above the other and

known as a “coil,” from which the heat is radiated, and this coil

is connected by a “flow” and “return” pipe with the boiler: a small

cistern of about 2 gallons capacity is connected with, and fixed

a little above the level of the highest part of the coil in some

convenient place. The apparatus is charged through this cistern,

and a small quantity of water is added thereto periodically to make

good loss by evaporation and to keep the coil full; these coils are

usually covered with an iron grated casing, with a metal, slate, or

marble top, which is both a useful and ornamental adjunct to the hall.

For conservatories the coil is not used, the radiating pipes being

run along the wall near the ground; a portion of the pipe has a

shallow open trough cast upon it, and this is filled with water.

As the apparatus becomes heated, evaporation takes place, and this

saturates the air, moisture being essential for this purpose.

For public buildings, &c., coils are sometimes used; but more often

the pipes are run in grated-topped channels just beneath the floor,

the grating being level with the floor-boards; they are taken around

or across the building, as is most desirable to obtain an equable

heat.

The radiating pipes, whether single or forming coils, are generally

4 in. diameter, of cast iron (cast iron being a better conductor or

dissipator than wrought), and at the highest point m the apparatus

a hole is drilled and a small cock is inserted; this cock is opened

when charging, to allow of the free escape of the air in the pipes,

and it is sometimes of service to discharge any steam that is

generated. The pipes are made with a socket at one end, into which

the plain end of the next pipe is inserted and packed with yarn, &c.;

but a modern and rapid method of joining the pipes is that patented

and manufactured by Jones and Attwood, of Stourbridge; this joint

consists of two flanges with indiarubber packing between, which makes

a perfectly secure joint by tightening the flanges together; in this

method the ends of the pipes are of equal size.

As explained, the principle of circulation is exactly the same

in this as in a domestic hot-water supply apparatus. The most

popular form is that known as the Desideratum. The makers have also

introduced a singularly useful tool for cutting all pipes from 2 to

13 in. diameter.

_High-pressure Heating_, or which might be correctly termed steam

heating, consists of piping wholly, the pipe is smaller and of

wrought iron unusually strong, and a coil of it placed within the

fire-box fulfils the duty of a boiler (no boiler or large container

can be used on account of high pressure); from the furnace coil the

pipe is carried wherever required, a small quantity of water is put

within the apparatus and the air is driven out, after which the

apparatus is sealed or closed air and steam tight. When the heat is

applied, the water quickly forms steam, which at once finds its way

throughout the apparatus and heats it to a much higher temperature

than boiling water; and there is comparatively no danger whatever

pressure is exerted, as at the worst the pipe only splits, and no

disastrous explosion can occur; but this mode of heating cannot

be recommended, as it rarely works for any length of time without

requiring attention or repairs.

Bacon’s system of heating by water under pressure (J. L. Bacon &

Co., 34 Upper Gloucester Place, London, N.W.) is very good, as the

pressure is regulated by a valve, and the temperature and pressure

never become excessive. This system is worked by small, strong

wrought-iron pipes, and the apparatus is wholly filled with water.

The great convenience of the small-pipe system recommends it for

all purposes, as it can be carried into almost inaccessible places,

and can be utilised for warming air, as it passes through inlet

ventilators, and for small drying and airing closets, towel dryers,

and for numberless small but exceedingly convenient purposes which

large cast-iron pipes would be very unsuited for; and the advocates

of this system contend that as much heat is radiated from their small

pipes as from the ordinary large ones, as the former are heated to

a much higher temperature than the latter: in Bacon’s system the

highest limit is about 300° F.

The subject of a supply of hot water for baths and other purposes

will be discussed in the chapter dealing with the Bath-room. See also

p. 995.

_Steam Heat._--Steam heat may well be compared with stove and furnace

heat. Stove heat corresponds to direct radiation by steam, and

furnace heat to indirect. The supply of fresh air from the outside to

and over the hot-air furnace, and through hot-air flue into the rooms

through registers, is virtually the same as when it is conveyed by

means of steam-heated flues in the walls. Exhaust flues, for getting

rid of foul air, are equally essential. The stove, as representing

direct radiation in the same manner as the steam coil, or plate, in

the room, has the advantage over the latter of some exhaust of foul

air, however little, even when the smoke-pipe is not jacketed, for

the steam heat has none. In comparison with open-stove heat, steam

heat is at still greater disadvantage; for open stoves supply all the

qualities of complete radiation--the introduction of fresh air and

the escape of foul--to a degree wholly unattainable by steam heat,

whether direct or indirect, or by hot-air furnaces, which always

require special provision for the escape of foul air.

The advantage of stove and furnace heat over steam may be summed up

thus:--It is more economical, more uniform, more easy of management,

more suitable for small areas to be warmed, and is free from the

noises and dangers of steam. Irregularities of the fire in steam

heating are a constant source of inconvenience, and sometimes of

danger. The going down of the fire during the night-time, or its

neglect for a few hours at any time, is followed by condensation of

the steam. On the addition of fuel and increase of heat, steam again

flows quickly into the pipes where a partial vacuum has formed,

and here, on coming in contact with the condensed water, it drives

the water violently, and creates such shocks as sometimes occasion

explosions; or, at least, produces very disagreeable noises and

general uneasiness, and frequently causes cracks and leaks. Hence

direct steam heat, which for warming purposes alone is altogether

superior to indirect, has been well-nigh abandoned. Indirect steam

heat places the leaks out of sight, but they commonly lead to

mischief, and require special and expensive provision for access and

repair.

_Chemical Heaters._--Many salts in solution are capable of absorbing

a considerable amount of heat and slowly giving it off as they resume

a crystalline state. That most generally used is soda acetate, but

an improvement consists in mixing 1 lb. of soda acetate with 10 lb.

of soda hyposulphite, the latter assisting the melting of the mass

and retarding crystallisation. The mode of applying this principle

is to nearly fill a sheet copper or other metallic vessel, such as

a foot-warmer, with the solution, and seal it up. When required for

warming purposes, the vessel is placed in boiling or hot water till

the contents are quite fluid, after which it may be used as a source

of heat for 12-15 hours. Obviously the vessel may be placed in an

ornamental structure resembling a stove, or used as a foot-warmer, or

a muff-warmer, and in many other ways where fire is inadmissible.

_Hints on Fuel, &c._--Suggestions for materials which may be used to

eke out a scanty supply of coal cannot fail to be useful. One plan

consists in well bedding lumps of chalk under small coal. This gives

a long-lasting fire, but is apt to emit an unpleasant odour. Another

plan is to make clay fire-balls, using common clay, coal dust and

cinders with sand, in about the following proportions:--1 cwt. coal

dust, 2 cwt. sand, 1½ cwt. clay, well mixing the ingredients, shaping

into fist-like lumps, and drying over night before the fire; to be

put on when the surface of the fire is clear.

Some further hints for reviving fires will be found under the

Sick-room.

=Lighting.=--The illumination of a dwelling is a most important

consideration, as regards comfort and health.

_Daylight._--Natural lighting is provided for by windows. The window

area of a room should be well proportioned. In dwelling-rooms, it

may amount to half the area of the external wall containing the

windows; in churches, &c., ⅓ will suffice. Too great a window area is

objectionable, as it considerably lowers the interior temperature in

winter, unless very thick glass and double windows are provided. When

windows become steamed or covered with condensed moisture in frosty

weather, this can be cured by applying a very thin coat of glycerine

on both sides of the glass. When direct daylight cannot be got, great

advantage may be derived from using polished metallic reflectors.

_Luminous Paints._--Several bodies possess the property of absorbing

a certain amount of light and emitting it slowly. The most important

of these is calcium sulphide. This property has been utilised by

mixing the mineral with paint as a covering for surfaces where the

light is required. The illumination, however, is very feeble.

_Candles._--Candles will long retain a place in domestic lighting

from their safety and convenience for carrying about. At the same

time they are an expensive source of light, and not very powerful.

It may here be mentioned that there is a right and a wrong way of

blowing out a candle. If the candle is held on a level with the

blower’s mouth, or blown down upon, as usual, as it stands on a

shelf or table, the wick will smoulder and smoke till the room is

filled with its disagreeable smell, and the wick burned away so

that it can be lit next time with difficulty. If the candlestick

is held well above the blower’s head, and the flame blown out from

below, the ignited wick will almost immediately be extinguished,

and no trouble will be found in re-lighting the candle. Avoid cheap

candles; they burn rapidly to waste and play havoc with clothes and

furniture by “dropping.” The best form of candlestick yet introduced

is the “silver torch,” made by Wm. Nunn & Co., 204 St. George

Street, London, E. By this the candle is converted into a lamp, with

or without a globe as desired; the candle is completely consumed,

leaving no ends, and guttering and dropping are quite prevented.

Nightlights should always be burned under a glass shade, such as

Clarke’s.

_Oil Lamps._--All lamps intended for burning animal, vegetable, or

mineral oils as illuminants should have the following objects in

view:--To supply oil regularly to the wick; to apportion the supply

of air to the description and quantity of oil to be burnt; to provide

simple means for regulating the height of the wick, and consequently,

the flame; and finally, to place the burning portion of the lamp in

such a position as not to be obscured by the reservoir and other

portions. The oldest lamps, as the antique Etruscan, and the cruisie

of Scotland, were on the suction principle, and the wick depended

for its supply upon its own capillary action. As the level of the

oil was constantly varying, so the light varied also, and the first

attempts of inventors were directed to maintaining an equal level of

oil. The bird-fountain and hydrostatic reservoirs partly attained

this end, and the Carcel and Moderator systems were perfect of their

class, mechanical or pressure lamps. It is evident that suction lamps

depend for their efficacy upon the gravity of the combustible. A

spirit lamp, with a good wick, will burn very well, though the wick

be several inches above the liquid. With liquids volatilising at low

temperatures, there is always a danger of the formation of explosive

mixtures.

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