DRINKING-CUSTOMS IN ENGLAND.

The ancient Bacchus, as represented in gems and statues, was a youthful

and graceful divinity; he is so described by Ovid, and was so painted by

Barry. He has the epithet of _Psilas_, to express the light spirits

which give wings to the soul. His voluptuousness was joyous and tender;

and he was never viewed reeling with intoxication. According to Virgil:

Et quocunque deus circum _caput_ egit _honestum_.

_Georg_. ii. 392.

which Dryden, contemplating on the red-faced boorish boy astride on a

barrel on our sign-posts, tastelessly sinks into gross vulgarity:

On whate'er side he turns his _honest_ face.

This Latinism of _honestum_ even the literal inelegance of Davidson had

spirit enough to translate, "Where'er the god hath moved around his

_graceful head_." The hideous figure of that ebriety, in its most

disgusting stage, the ancients exposed in the bestial Silenus and his

crew; and with these, rather than with the Ovidian and Virgilian deity,

our own convivial customs have assimilated.

We shall probably outlive that custom of hard-drinking which was so long

one of our national vices. The Frenchman, the Italian, and the Spaniard

only taste the luxury of the grape, but seem never to have indulged in

set convivial parties, or drinking-matches, as some of the northern

people. Of this folly of ours, which was, however, a borrowed one, and

which lasted for two centuries, the history is curious: the variety of

its modes and customs; its freaks and extravagances; the technical

language introduced to raise it into an art; and the inventions

contrived to animate the progress of the thirsty souls of its

votaries.[155]

Nations, like individuals, in their intercourse are great imitators; and

we have the authority of Camden, who lived at the time, for asserting

that "the English in their long wars in the Netherlands first learnt to

drown themselves with immoderate drinking, and by drinking others'

healths to impair their own. Of all the northern nations, they had been

before this most commended for their sobriety." And the historian adds,

"that the vice had so diffused itself over the nation, that in our days

it was first restrained by severe laws."[156]

Here we have the authority of a grave and judicious historian for

ascertaining the first period and even origin of this custom; and that

the nation had not, heretofore, disgraced itself by such prevalent

ebriety, is also confirmed by one of those curious contemporary

pamphlets of a popular writer, so invaluable to the philosophical

antiquary. Tom Nash, a town-wit of the reign of Elizabeth, long before

Camden wrote her history, in his "Pierce Pennilesse," had detected the

same origin.--"Superfluity in drink," says this spirited writer, "is a

sin that ever since we have mixed ourselves with the Low Countries is

counted honourable; but before we knew their lingering wars, was held in

that highest degree of hatred that might be. Then if we had seen a man

go wallowing in the streets, or lain sleeping under the board, we should

have spet at him, and warned all our friends out of his company."[157]

Such was the fit source of this vile custom, which is further confirmed

by the barbarous dialect it introduced into our language; all the terms

of drinking which once abounded with us are, without exception, of a

base northern origin.[158] But the best account I can find of all the

refinements of this new science of potation, when it seems to have

reached its height, is in our Tom Nash, who being himself one of these

deep experimental philosophers, is likely to disclose all the mysteries

of the craft.

He says--"Now, he is nobody that cannot drink _super-nagulum_;

_carouse_ the hunter's _hoope_; quaff _vpse freeze crosse_; with

_healths, gloves, mumpes, frolickes_, and a thousand such domineering

inventions."[159]

_Drinking super-nagulum_, that is, _on the nail_, is a device, which

Nash says is new come out of France: but it had probably a northern

origin, for far northward it still exists. This new device consisted in

this, that after a man, says Nash, hath turned up the bottom of the cup

to drop it on his nail, and make a pearl with what is left, which if it

shed, and cannot make it stand on, by reason there is too much, he must

drink again for his penance.

The custom is also alluded to by Bishop Hall in his satirical romance of

"_Mundus alter et idem_," "A Discovery of a New World," a work which

probably Swift read, and did not forget. The Duke of Tenter-belly in his

oration, when he drinks off his large goblet of twelve quarts, on his

election, exclaims, should he be false to their laws--"Let never this

goodly-formed goblet of wine go jovially through me; and then he set it

to his mouth, stole it off every drop, save _a little remainder_, which

he was by custom to _set upon his thumb's nail_, and lick it off as he

did."

The phrase is in Fletcher:

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