The figwort family has many and curious representatives. The_The Mountain that was 'God' Being a Little Book About the Great Peak Which the Indians Named 'Tacoma' but Which is Officially Called 'Rainier'

rose-purple monkey-flower is very common and conspicuous in the lower

meadows, along the streams. It is nearly always accompanied by the

yellow fireweed. Higher up, large meadow areas are arrayed in bright

yellow by the alpine monkey-flower. Above timber line, two

pentstemons, with matted leaves and short stems with brilliant purple

and red flowers, cover large rocky patches, mixed here and there with

lavender beds of the alpine phlox; while the amber rays of the golden

aster, scattered through these variegated beds, lend their {p.136}

charm to the rocky ridges. The Indian paint-brush, the speedwell, the

elephant's trunk, and the pigeon bills are all well-known members of

the large figwort family which does much to embellish the Mountain

meadows. The valerian, often wrongly called "mountain heliotrope," is

very common on the grassy slopes. Its odor can often be detected

before it is seen. The rosy spiraea, the mountain ash, and the wild

currant, are three common shrubs in this area. There are also numerous

small herbaceous plants of the saxifrage family, some forming dense

mats to the exclusion of other plants. The mertensias, polemoniums,

and shooting stars add much to the purple and blue coloring.

[Illustration: Avalanche Lilies (Erythronium montanum), sometimes

called deer tongues, forcing their way through the lingering snow.]

[Illustration: Copyright, 1909, By Asahel Curtis. Moraine Park,

Sluiskin Mountains and Mystic Lake.]

Two liliaceous plants of low altitude are always objects of marked

interest. The Clintonia, popularly called alpine beauty, begins in the

forest area, and continues up to the lower meadows. This may be known

by its pure white blossoms and blue berries. Its leaves are oblong in

tufts of from two to four. They spring up near the roots. The other is

xerophyllum, mountain lily, sometimes called squaw grass, because it

is used by the Indians in basket making. This has tall {p.138} stems

with small fragrant flowers and coarse grass-like leaves.

[Illustration {p.137}: Sunrise in Indian Henry's Park, with view of

the southwest slope and Peak Success, showing Purple Asters, with

bunches of Hellebore in center of the flower field.]

[Illustration: Anemone Seed Pods.]

The orchid family has a few curious saprophytic representatives on the

lower slopes. Mertin's coral-root is one of the most common. This

generally grows in clusters in the mossy woods, along the trail or

government road above Longmire Springs. It is very common all around

the mountain at an altitude of 3,000 to 4,500 feet. With it, grow two

tway-blades and the rattlesnake plantain. In bogs, two species of

piperia, with long spikes of greenish flowers, are abundant. In drier

situations, a small form of the ladies' tresses is easily recognized

by its spiral spike of small white flowers, which are more or less

fragrant. In some of the swamps at the base of the mountain grows

_Limnorchis leucostachys_. This is one of our most fragrant flowers,

as well as one of the most beautiful, with its long spike of pure

white blossoms.

Of the ferns, the common brake is sometimes seen on the slopes near

the terminal moraines of the glaciers. On the old moraines and cliffs

is found the pea fern (_cryptogramma acrostichoides_), so called

because the pinnules of its fruiting fronds resemble those of a pea

pod. This dainty little fern with its two kinds of fronds is always

admired by mountain visitors. It is strictly a mountain fern. The deer

fern also has two kinds of fronds, but this grows all the way from sea

level to the glaciers, being at its best in the dense forest area. The

delicate oak fern grows in great abundance from Eatonville to the

timber line, and probably does more to beautify the woods than any

other fern. The sword fern grows in dense, radiate clusters, all

through the mossy woods. The fronds are often five or six feet in

length. The maidenhair fern is found along streams, waterfalls and

moist cliffs, reaching its highest development in the deep canyons cut

through the dense forest.

On the very top of Pinnacle Peak and similar elevations, grows the

beautiful mountain lace fern (_cheilanthes gracillima._) Nearly every

tourist presses a souvenir of it in his notebook. _Phegopteris

alpesteris_ is abundant along the glacial valleys, where the tall

grasses and the beautiful array of alpine plants delight the eye.

These ferns and grasses give a rich green color to the varigated

slopes where nature blends so many harmonious colors in matchless

grandeur in this great fairyland of flowers.

{p.139}

[Illustration: Wind Swept Trees on North Side, the last below the Snow

line.]

The writer has a list of about three hundred and sixty species from

the Mountain. It includes only flowering plants and ferns. There are

more than twenty type species named from the Mountain, not a few of

which are found nowhere else. Its geographical position makes it the

boundary between the arctic plants from the North and the plants of

Oregon and California from the South. Its great altitude has a

wonderful effect on plant life. This is seen in the trees at timber

line, where snow rests upon them for months. Their prostrate trunks

and gnarled branches give ample testimony to their extreme struggle

for existence. Where the ordinary plants cease to exist the snowy

protococcus holds undisputed sway on the extensive snow fields. This

is a small one-celled microscopic plant having a blood red color in

one stage of its existence. Even in the crater, on the warm rocks of

the rim, will be found three or four mosses--I have noted one there

which is not found anywhere else--several lichens, and at least one

liverwort.

[Illustration: Lupines.]

{p.140}

[Illustration: Copyright, 1910, by E. F. Cutter. The Mountain, as seen

from a high ridge in the Cascades near Green River Hot Springs,

showing the north and east faces of the Peak, and Little Tahoma on the

left.]

NOTES.

Rates, Trains, Hotel Accommodations.--The round-trip fare from Tacoma

via the Tacoma Eastern is $6.00. This includes railway transportation

to Ashford and automobile-stage ride from Ashford to Longmire Springs

and return. Tickets are good for the season. To parties of ten or more

traveling together a single ticket is issued at $5.00 per capita. A

week-end ticket, Saturday to Monday, is sold at $5.00. The rates from

Seattle to the Springs are $1.50 more, in each case, than the Tacoma

rates. The train schedule for 1911 follows:

SOUTHBOUND

Leave Seattle 7.45 A.M. and 12.30 P.M.

Arrive Tacoma 8.55 A.M. and 1.40 P.M.

Leave Tacoma 9.05 A.M. and 1.50 P.M.

Arrive Ashford 11.20 A.M. and 4.05 P.M.

Leave Ashford 11.30 A.M. and 4.15 P.M.

Arrive at Inn 12.45 P.M. and 5.30 P.M.

NORTHBOUND

Leave Inn 7.15 A.M. and 1.30 P.M.

Arrive Ashford 8.30 A.M. and 2.45 P.M.

Leave Ashford 8.40 A.M. and 2.55 P.M.

Arrive Tacoma 10.55 A.M. and 5.10 P.M.

Leave Tacoma 11.05 A.M. and 5.15 P.M.

Arrive Seattle 12.15 P.M. and 6.30 P.M.

The National Park Inn, Longmire Springs, provides excellent rooms in

the Inn, with a large number of well-furnished and comfortable tents

near by. The rates range from $2.50 to $3.75 a day, including meals.

The dining-room is under the Chicago, Milwaukee & Puget Sound

dining-car management, which insures a satisfactory table.

At the older Longmire Hotel, the rate is $2.50 a day for room and

board. This hotel is open all the year, and in winter is much

frequented by persons seeking Winter sports, or making use of the

mineral springs.

The springs are of great variety, and are highly recommended for their

medicinal virtues. Within an area of several acres, there are a score

of these springs, varying from the normal temperature of a mountain

stream almost to blood heat. Well-appointed bathhouses are maintained.

Fee, including attendance, $1.00.

At Reese's Camp, in Paradise Park, and at Mrs. Hall's similar tent

hotel in Indian Henry's Park, the charge for meals, with a tent for

sleeping, is $2.50 per day.

Stages, Horses, Guides.--The cost of getting from Longmire Springs to

Paradise or Indian Henry's is moderate. Many prefer to make the trips

on foot over the mountain trails. Parties are made up several times a

day, under experienced guides, for each of these great "parks," and

sure-footed horses are provided for those who wish to ride, at $1.50

for the round trip. Guides and horses for the new trail to Eagle Peak

are at the same rate. Guides may be had at the {p.141} National Park

Inn or at either of the "camps" for many interesting trips over the

mountain trails. Horses also are furnished. The charge varies with the

number in a party.

Stages carry passengers from the Inn over the government road to

Nisqually glacier, Narada Falls and Reese's Camp in Paradise Park. The

charge for the trip to Narada and return is $2.00; to Paradise and

return, $3.00.

For those who wish to make the ascent to the summit over the Gibraltar

trail, trustworthy guides may be engaged at the Inn or at Reese's.

Arrangements should be made several days in advance. The cost of such

a trip depends upon the number in a party. The guides make a charge of

$25 for the first member of the party, and $5 each for the others.

They furnish alpenstocks, ropes, and calks for the shoes of climbers

at a reasonable charge. Each person should carry with him a blanket or

extra coat and a small amount of food, for use in the event of being

on the summit over night. Still heavier clothing will be required if

the night is to be spent at Camp Muir. A sleeping-bag, which can be

easily made, or purchased at any outfitter's, will prove invaluable to

campers. Ascents from other points than Reese's are usually made in

special parties. All persons are warned not to attempt an ascent

unless accompanied by experienced guides. Lives have been lost through

neglect of this precaution.

For persons visiting the North Side, the Northern Pacific rate from

Tacoma to Fairfax is $1.25, and from Seattle to Fairfax, with change

of cars at Puyallup, $1.75. Guides and horses may be engaged at

Fairfax for the Spray Park trail.

Automobiles and Motorcycles.--These vehicles are permitted to use the

government road, as far as the Nisqually glacier, under the following

regulations of the Interior Department:

No automobile or motorcycle will be permitted within the Park unless

its owner secures a written permit from the Superintendent, Edward S.

Hall, Ashford, Washington, or his representative. Applications must

show: Names of owner and driver, number of machine, and inclusive

dates for which permit is desired, not exceeding one year, and be

accompanied by a fee of $5 for each automobile and $1 for each

motorcycle. All permits will expire on December 31. Permits must be

presented to the Superintendent or his authorized representatives at

the park entrance on the government road.

Automobiles and motorcycles will be permitted on the government road

west of Longmire Springs between the hours of 7 A.M. and 8.30 P.M.,

but no automobile or motorcycle shall enter the Park or leave Longmire

Springs in the direction of the western boundary, later than 8 P.M.,

the use of automobiles and motorcycles to be permitted between

Longmire Springs and Nisqually glacier between the hours of 9 A.M.

and 9.30 P.M., but no automobile or motorcycle shall leave Longmire

Springs in the direction of the glacier later than 7 P.M.

When teams, saddle horses, or pack trains approach, automobiles and

motorcycles shall take position on the outer edge of the roadway,

taking care that sufficient room is left on the inside for them to

pass, and remaining at rest until they have passed, or until the

drivers are satisfied regarding the safety of their horses. Horses

have the right of way, and automobiles and motorcycles will be backed

or otherwise handled to enable horses to pass with safety.

Speed shall be limited to 6 miles per hour, except on straight

stretches where approaching teams, saddle horses, and pack trains will

be visible, when, if none are in sight, this speed may be increased to

the rate indicated on signboards along the road; in no event, however,

shall it exceed 15 miles per hour. Signal with horn shall be given at

or near every bend to announce to approaching drivers the proximity of

a machine.

Violation of any of the foregoing rules, or the general regulations of

the Park, will cause the revocation of permit, subject the owner of

the automobile or motorcycle to any damages occasioned thereby and to

ejectment from the reservation, and be cause for refusal to issue a

new permit without prior sanction in writing from the Secretary of the

Interior.

Literature of the Mountain.--Vancouver, Winthrop, Kautz, Stevens and

Van Trump have been noted in the text. Other early accounts of, or

references to, the Mountain may be found in _Wilkes: Narrative U. S.

exploring expedition_. Phil. 1845, v. 4, 413, 415, 424; _U. S. War

Dep't: Explorations for railroad to Pacific, 1853-4_, v. 1, 192;

_Gibbs: Journal Am. Geog. Soc._, v. 4, 354-357. {p.142} Gibbs's

Indian vocabularies, published at different dates, were reprinted four

years after his death in _Contributions to Am. Ethnol._, v. 1. Wash.

1877.

For Emmons's account of his exploration in 1870, see _Bulletin Am.

Geog. Soc._ v. 9, 44-61. _Am. Jour. of Science_, v. 101, 157-167, and

_Nation_ v. 23, 313. Prof. Israel C. Russell's studies of the peak are

in _U. S. geol. survey, 5th an. rep._ 335-339 and _18th an. rep., part

2_, 349-415. See also his _Glaciers of N. Am._, Bost. 1901, 62-67, and

_Volcanoes of N. Am._, Bost. 1895, 241-246. For other accessible

studies consult _Wright: Ice age in N. Am. N. Y._ 1889, and _Muir: Our

national parks_, Bost. 1901.

The long controversy over the name of the peak is impartially reviewed

in _Snowden: History of Washington_. N. Y. 1909, v. 4, 249-254.

Snowden calls especial attention to an able paper by the late Thaddeus

Hanford of Olympia on the Indian names and recommending the name

Tacoma for the Territory, which was printed in the _Washington

Standard_ in January, 1866. This article should be reprinted by the

State Historical Society, as it represents a movement of considerable

force at one time against the inept and confusing name adopted for the

State. The Indian evidence for the native name of the Mountain was

collected in _Wickersham: Is it "Mt. Tacoma" or "Mt. Rainier?"_,

pamphlet, Tacoma, 1893. The argument of an eminent traveler and author

against "Mt. Rainier" may be found in _Finck: Pacific coast scenic

tour_. N. Y. 1891, 209-213, 229-230; also in the same writer's more

recent article, _Scribner's Magazine_, v. 47, 234-5. See also _Lyman:

The Columbia river_. N. Y. 1909, p. 32, 352-370, and _The Mountains of

Washington_, in _The Mountaineer_, v. 1, 7-10; and Charles F. Lummis's

editorial articles in _Out West_, v. 23, 367 and 494. On the other

hand, Prof. Davidson, in _Sierra Club Bulletin_, v. 6, 87-98, presents

reasons on which that club accepted "Mt. Rainier."

_Wheeler: Climbing Mt. Rainier_, St. Paul, 1895, and _Plummer:

Illustrated guide book to Mt. Tacoma_, Tacoma, n. d., are two

pamphlets now out of print.

The ascents by the Mazama, Sierra and Mountaineers clubs have

furnished material for a great variety of articles on the geology,

botany and glacier action, as well as many accounts of climbing

adventures. _Mazama_, v. 2, _Sierra Club Bulletin_, v. 6, and _The

Mountaineer_, v. 1 and 2, are mainly devoted to this peak. For

articles in periodicals of wider circulation, see _Review of Reviews_,

v. 9, 163-171 (by Carl Snyder); _Out West_, v. 24, 365-395 (Willoughby

Rodman); _National geog. mag._, v. 20, 530-538 (Milnor Roberts);

_Scribner's_ v. 22, 169-171 (I. C. Russell); _Outing_, v. 5, 323-332

(J. R. W. Hitchcock), and v. 38, 386-392 (Ada Woodruff Anderson);

_Overland_, n. s., v. 2, 300-312 (W. D. Lyman), v. 8, 266-278 (George

Bailey), v. 32, 114-123 (J. P. Montgomery), v. 46, 447-455 (Harry H.

Brown), v. 55, 552-560 (A. W. McCully), and v. 56, 150-155 (A. W.

McCully); _Pacific monthly_, v. 8, 196-202 (John Muir); _The world

today_, v. 9, 1047-53 (Anne Shannon Monroe); _Good words_, v. 42,

101-114 (Arthur Inkersley); _Appalachia_, v. 7, 185-205 (Ernest C.

Smith), and v. 11, 114-125 (W. A. Brooks); _Country life in Am._, v.

14, 170-171 (C. E. Cutter); _The Northwest_, v. 1, 2-10 (Bailey

Willis); _Outdoor life_, v. 26, 15-24 (Edna Cadwallader). Special

studies of the rocks of the peak may be found in _U. S. geol. sur.,

12th an. rep. pt. 1_, 612 (J. P. Iddings), and in _Neues Jahrbuch_, v.

1, 222-226, Stuttgart, 1885 (K. Oebeke).

[Illustration: Glacial debris on lower part of Winthrop Glacier, with

Sluiskin Mountains beyond.]

{p.143} INDEX.

Figures in light face type refer to the text, those in the heavier

type to illustrations.

Adams, Mount, 77, 86, 64, 66.

Allen, Prof. O. D., cottage, 49.

Alta Vista, 49, 60.

American Alpine Club, 126.

Anemones, 32;

seed pods, 138.

Appalachian Club, 126.

Ascents, Kautz, 117;

Stevens and Van Trump, 120-4;

Emmons and Wilson, 124;

Glascock and Dudley, 125;

the mountain clubs, 126.

Automobiles, 57, 70-72, 141, 41, 49, 54.

Avalanche on Willis Wall, 119.

Avalanche Camp, 103, 104, 105.

Avalanche Lilies, 136.

Baker, Mount, 86, 98, 99.

Ballinger, Richard, H. 75.

Basaltic Columns,--South Mowich, 23;

on Cowlitz, 93.

Bashford, Herbert,--verse, 17.

Bee Hive, 76, 80.

Beljica, view from, 27.

Brooks, Francis,--verse, 40.

Cabins needed on the ridges, 116, 144.

Camp of the Clouds, 49, 61, 60.

Carbon river, 50, 103, 114.

Cascade Mountains, 66, 87, 90, 96.

Cathedral Rocks, 85, 76, 84, 78.

Chittenden, Maj. H. M., urges trail, 69.

Columbia's Crest, 86, 88, 52, 78.

Commencement Bay, 28.

Congress, action affecting the Park, 58, 59, 67, 70.

Cowlitz Chimneys, 43, 78, 81.

Cowlitz Cleaver, 85, 76, 78, 81.

Cowlitz Park, 64, 93.

Crater, 50, 88, 89.

Crater Lake, 117.

Crater Peak, 13, 86, 60, 89.

Curtis, Camp, on the Wedge, 97.

Cushman, Francis W., 59, 108.

Dudley, Ernest, 125.

Eagle Cliff, 51.

Eagle Peak (Simlayshe), 30, 31;

new trail to, 141.

Eagle Rock in winter, 7.

East-side route to summit, 117, 126, 100.

Edmunds, George F., 96.

Electric-power development, 108-112.

Electron, The Mountain from, 13, 19;

Power plant at, 108, 112.

Emmons, S. F., Geologist, 94-97.

Fairfax, trail from, 50.

Fair Mountaineer, A, 35.

Fairy Falls, 73.

Fay Peak, 51, 92.

Ferns, 132.

Fires, danger of forest, 8, 58, 130.

Flett, Prof., J. B., 129, n.

Flint, Frank P., U. S. Senator, 75.

Flood, Indian legend of the, 39.

Fox Island, the Mountain from, 14.

Fountain, Paul, quoted, 43.

Fuller, Miss Fay, 126, 72.

Gap Point, 61, 54.

"Ghost Trees," 50.

Gibbs, George, on name "Mt. Tacoma," 104, 107, 142.

Gibraltar Rock, 82, 85, 116, 121, 60, 68, 71, 76, 78, 81, 82, 83,

85, 86.

Glaciers, their number and work, 79-83;

moraines, 83, 68, 77, 79, 96;

rate of flow, 83, 72;

names, 93-97;

rivers, 108;

--Carbon, 50, 51, 77, 103, 105, 107, 108, 118, 119, 120, 121, 129;

--Cowlitz, 50, 93, 6, 51, 78, 81, 84, 87;

--Frying-Pan, 93, 41, 96, 97;

--Ingraham, 93, 78;

--Interglacier, 93, 98, 99;

--Kautz, 93, 27, 30, 37, 60, 68;

--North Mowich, 50-52, 96, 13, 123, 124, 128;

--South Mowich, 52, 13, 22, 23;

--Nisqually, 49, 31, 55, 57, 60, 68, 69, 71, 72, 78, 81;

--Paradise, 50, 94, 97, 25, 31, 60, 79;

--Puyallup, 52, 13, 27, 33;

--Stevens, 50, 97, 61, 64, 79;

--North Tahoma, 93, 13, 26, 27, 32, 33, 37;

--South Tahoma, 93, 17, 27, 32, 36, 37, 60;

--Van Trump, 94, 31, 60;

--White, 50, 81, 93, 9, 12, 94, 95, 96, 100, 121;

--Winthrop, 50, 51, 93, 94, 8, 17, 130, 103, 104, 107, 113, 126,

142.

Glascock, Raglan, 125.

"Goat Island," moraine, 96.

Goat Mountain (Mt. Wow), 28.

Goat Peaks, 87, 90, 94.

Grand Park, 51, 64, 98, 99.

Green River, view of the Mountain from, 140.

Guides, 113, 141.

Hanging glaciers, 51, 57.

Heather, 133.

Hellebore, 133.

Hiaqua Hunter, Myth, 32-39.

Hood, Mt., 86.

Hylebos, P. F. (Rev.), 28, n.

Ice caves, 31, 73.

Indian Henry's Hunting Ground, 49, 25, 29, 32, 34, 36, 37, 40, 50,

131, 137;

--Mrs. Hall's Camp, 141.

Indians, nature worship of the Mountain, 25-31, 39;

Puget Sound tribes, 25, 26;

fear of the snow-peaks, 32, 121.

Ingraham, Maj. E. S., 100.

Interglaciers, 93.

Iron and Copper mountains, 25, 30.

Jones, Wesley L., U. S. Senator, 75.

Jordan, David Starr, 67.

Judson, Miss Katharine B. 35, 39.

Kautz, Gen., A. V., 117.

Kulshan, Indian name for Mt. Baker, 98.

Kutz, Maj. C. W., 69.

Liberty Cap (North Peak), 86, 22, 89, 114.

Little Tahoma, 82, 85, 9, 31, 60, 78, 79, 94, 121.

Longmire, James, trail and road, 59.

Longmire Hotel, 141.

Longmire Springs, 44, 51, 141, 52.

Lost to the World, 69.

Lupines, 139.

McClure, Prof. Edgar, death, 115.

Marmot, 26.

Matthes, Francois E., U. S. geologist, 89, 97.

Mazama (mountain goat), 23.

Mazama Club, 126, 81, 82.

Mazama Ridge, 60.

Mineral Lake, 18.

Moraine Park, 51, 126, 105, 113, 117, 129, 136.

Mosses and ferns, 132.

Mother Mountains, 103, 114, 116, 122, 129.

Mountaineers, The, 126, 61, 121, 126.

Mountain goat, 23.

Mountain Lily, 136, 135.

Mountain Pine, 28.

Muir John, quoted, 77, 113, 129;

Portrait, 116.

Muir, Camp, 115, 60, 80, 83.

Mystic Lake, 113.

Narada Falls, 61, 107, 58.

National Park, see Rainier Natl. Park.

National Parks, proposed Bureau of, 75.

National Park Inn, 44, 50, 52.

Nisqually Canyon, 21.

Nisqually Glacier (see Glaciers).

Nisqually river, 108, 111, 21, 24, 55.

North Peak (Liberty Cap), 13, 22, 89.

Ohop Valley, 43.

Pacific Forest Reserve, 59.

Paradise River, 59.

Paradise Valley, or Park, 30, 49-51, 61, 31, 39, 46, 53, 59, 60, 62.

Peak Success (South Peak), 86, 123-125, 13, 24, 25, 27, 33, 37, 60,

68, 78.

Phlox, 135.

Pierce County road, 43, 49.

Piles, S. H., U. S. Senator, 70.

Pinnacle Peak, 38, 39, 46, 47.

Point Defiance Park, 18.

Power-plants on the Mountain, 108-112, 111, 112.

Proctor, Miss Edna Dean, poem, "The Mountain Speaks," 15.

Ptarmigan, 40.

Puget Sound 18, 25, 14;

named by Vancouver, 98.

Puyallup river, 108, 40.

Pyramid Peak, 25, 60.

Railways to Puget Sound, 44;

to the Mountain, 54, 57;

rates and time table, 140.

Rainier, Rear-Admiral Peter, 7, 98, 100, 103, n., 101.

Reese's Camp, 61, 115, 141, 64.

Reflection Lake, 60, 77.

Rainier National Park, 54;

increasing use of, 56, 57;

its creation, 58-9;