PART XII.

MARITZBURG, September 1, 1876.

I have had many pleasant cups of tea in my life, indoors and out of

doors, but never a pleasanter cup than the one I had the other day in a

wagon, or, to speak more exactly, by the side of a wagon—a wagon, too,

upon which one looked with the deepest respect, for it had just come

down from a long journey up the country, where it had been trekking

these four months past—trekking night and day right up to the territory

of the Ama-Swazies, through the Thorn country, over hundreds of miles

of these endless billowy hills, rolling in wearying monotony day after

day; but—and this “but” made up for every other shortcoming—amid

hunting-grounds happier than often fall to the lot of even the South

African explorer. And there were the spoils of the little campaign

spread out before us. The first result, however, which struck me was

the splendid health of the travelers. Sunburned indeed they were,

especially the fair young English girl-face which had smiled good-bye

to me from the depths of a sun-bonnet last April. But who would

not risk a few shades of tan to have gone through such a novel and

delightful journey? I never saw two people look so well in all my life

as this adventurous couple, and it was with one voice they declared

they had enjoyed every moment of the time. And what a pleasant time it

must have been, rewarded as they were—and deserved to be—by splendid

sport! On the fore part of the wagon lay a goodly pile of skins and

quantities of magnificent horns, from the ponderous pair on the shaggy

buffalo-skulls down to taper points which might have belonged to a

fairy buck, so slender, so polished, so inexpressibly graceful, were

they. But the trophy of trophies was the skin of a lion, which had

been shot in the earliest morning light some twenty yards from the

hunter’s tent. It was a splendid skin, and the curved claws are to be

made into a necklace and earrings for the sportsman’s wife, who indeed

deserves them for bearing her share of the dangers and discomforts

of the expedition so cheerfully and bravely. It was very difficult

to elicit the least hint of what the discomforts were, or might have

been, until at last my eager questions raked out an admission that a

week of wet weather (the only one, by the way, in all the four months)

was tedious when cooped up under the tilt of the wagon, or that some

of the places up and down which the lumbering, unwieldy conveyance had

crept were fearful to look at and dangerous to travel, necessitating a

lashing together of the wheels by iron chains, as well as the use of

the ordinary heavy brake. Yet there had been no upset, no casualty, no

serious trouble of any sort; and I think what these English travelers

were more impressed with than anything else was the honesty of the

Kafirs. The wagon with its stores of food and wine, of comforts and

conveniences of all sorts, had been left absolutely alone by the side

of a track crossed and recrossed every hour by Kafirs, and twenty

miles short of the place whither the tent had been carried for greater

facilities of getting at the big game. The oxen were twenty miles off

in another direction, under no one’s care in particular; the wagon

stood absolutely alone; and yet when the moment of reassembling came

every bullock was forthcoming, and nothing whatever of any description

was missing from the unguarded wagon. The great attraction to the

Kafirs along the line of travel had been the empty tins of preserved

milk or jam: with tops and bottoms knocked out they made the most

resplendent bangles, and became a violent fashion up among the Thorns.

Nor was that grand lion’s skin the only one. There were quagga skins,

wolf skins, buck skins of half a dozen different species, eland skins,

buffalo skins, lynx and wild-cat skins enough to start a furrier’s

shop, and all in excellent preservation, having been tightly pegged

out and thoroughly dried. The horns—or rather the skulls—were still

a little high, and needed to be heaped well to leeward before we

settled down to tea, camping on kegs and boxes and whatever we could

find. I was made proud and happy by being accommodated with a seat on

the lion skin; and exactly opposite to me, tranquilly grazing on the

young grass, was the identical donkey which had attracted the king of

animals to the spot where his fate awaited him. Although camped in

the very heart of the lion country, the hunter had neither seen nor

heard anything of his big game until this donkey chanced to be added

to the stud, and then the lions came roaring round, half a dozen at a

time. A huge fire had to be kept up night and day, and close to this

the unhappy ass was tethered, for his life would not have been worth

much otherwise; and he seems to have been thoroughly alive to the

perils of his situation. Lions can resist anything except ass-flesh,

it appears; but it is so entirely their favorite delicacy that they

forget their cunning, and become absolutely reckless in pursuit of it.

When at the last extremity of terror, the poor donkey used to lift

up his discordant voice, and so keep the prowling foe at bay for a

while, though it invariably had the double effect of attracting all

the lions within earshot. And so it was that in the early dawn the

hunter, hearing the lion’s growls coming nearer and nearer, and the

poor donkey’s brays more and more frequent, stole out, rifle in hand,

just in time to get a steady shot at the splendid brute only fifteen

yards away, who was hungrily eyeing the miserable ass on the other

side of the blazing fire. In spite of all legends to the contrary, a

lion never attacks a man first, and this lion turned and moved away

directly he saw the sportsman’s leveled rifle. Only one shot was fired,

for the dull thud of the bullet told that it had struck the lion, and

nothing upon earth is so dangerous as a wounded lion. The huge beast

walked slowly away, and when the full daylight had come the sportsman

and a few Kafirs followed up the blood-flecked trail for a quarter of

a mile, or less, to find the lion lying down as if asleep, with his

head resting on his folded fore paw, quite dead. I don’t think I ever

understood the _weight_ of a lion until I was told that it took two

strong Kafirs to lift one of its ponderous fore feet a few inches even

from the ground, and it was almost more than ten men could manage to

drag it along the ground by ropes back to the tent. Twenty men could

scarcely have carried it, the size and weight of the muscle are so

enormous. The Kafirs prize the fat of the lion very highly, and the

headman of the expedition had claimed this as his perquisite, melting

it down into gourds and selling it in infinitesimal portions as an

unguent. I don’t know what the market-price up country was, but whilst

we were laughing and chatting over our tea I saw the crafty Kafir

scooping out the tiniest bits of lion’s fat in return for a shilling.

One of my Kafirs asked leave to go down and buy some. “What for, Jack?”

I asked. “Not for me, ma’—_for my brudder_: make him brave, ma’—able

for plenty fight, ma’.” I am certain, however, that this was a ruse,

and that Jack felt his own need of the courage-giving ointment.

Talking of Jack, reminds me of a visit I had the other day from a

detachment of his friends and relatives. They did not come to see Jack:

they came to see me, and very amusing visitors they were. First of all,

there was a bride, who brought me a young hen as a present. She was

attended by two or three scraggy girls of about fifteen, draped only in

short mantles of coarse cloth. The bride herself was exceedingly smart,

and had one of the prettiest faces imaginable. Her regular features,

oval outline, dazzling teeth and charming expression were not a bit

disfigured by her jet-black skin. Her hair was drawn straight up from

her head like a tiara, stained red and ornamented with a profusion of

bones and skewers, feathers, etc., stuck coquettishly over one ear,

and a band of bead embroidery, studded with brass-headed nails, being

worn like a fillet where the hair grew low on the forehead. She had

a kilt—or series of aprons, rather—of lynx skins, a sort of bodice of

calf skin, and over her shoulders, arranged with ineffable grace, a gay

table-cover. Then there were strings of beads on her pretty, shapely

throat and arms, and a bright scarlet ribbon tied tight round each

ankle. All the rest of the party seemed immensely proud of this young

person, and were very anxious to put her forward in every way. Indeed,

all the others, mostly hard-working, hard-featured matrons, prematurely

aged, took no more active part than the chorus of a Greek play, always

excepting the old induna or headman of the village, who came as escort

and in charge of the whole party. He was a most garrulous and amusing

individual, full of reminiscences and anecdotes of his fighting days.

He was rather more frank than most warriors who

Shoulder their crutch and show how fields are won,

for the usual end of his battle-stories was the naïve confession, “And

then I thought I should be killed, and so I ran away.” He and I used up

a great many interpreters in the course of the visit, for he wearied

every one out, and nothing made him so angry as any attempt to condense

his conversation in translating it to me. But he was great fun—polite,

as became an old soldier, full of compliments and assurances that

“now, the happiest day of his life having come, he desired to live no

longer, but was ready for death.” The visit took place on the shady

side of the verandah, and thither I brought my large musical-box and

set it down on the ground to play. Never was there such a success. In

a moment they were all down on their knees before it, listening with

rapt delight, the old man telling them the music was caused by very

little people inside the box, who were obliged to do exactly as I bade

them. They were all in a perfect ecstasy of delight for ever so long,

retreating rapidly, however, to a distance whenever I wound it up. The

old induna took snuff copiously all the time, and made me affectionate

speeches, which resulted in the gift of an old great-coat, which he

assured me he never should live to wear out, because he was quite in

a hurry to die and go to the white man’s land, now that he had seen

me. We hunted up all manner of queer odds and ends for presents, and

made everybody happy in turn. As a final ceremony, I took them through

the house: tiny as it is, it filled them with amazement and delight.

My long looking-glass was at once a terror and a pleasure to them,

for they rather feared bewitchment; but I held up the baby to see

himself in it, and then they were pacified, saying, “The chieftainess

never would go and bewitch that nice little chieftain.” As usual, the

pictures were what they most thoroughly enjoyed. Landseer’s prints of

wild cattle elicited low cries of recognition and surprise: “Zipi in

korno!” (“Behold the cows!”) My own favorite print of the three little

foxes was much admired, but pronounced to be “lill catties.” The bride

was anxious to know why I kept the beds of the establishment on the

floor and allowed people to walk over them. She did not consider that a

good arrangement evidently; nor could she understand how matting could

be of any use except to sleep on. At last it became time for “scoff,”

and they all retired to partake of that dainty, the old induna having

begged leave to kiss my hands, which he did very gallantly, assuring me

he had never been so happy before in all his life, and that he could

quite believe now what I had told him about the great white queen over

the sea being just as careful for and fond of her black children as of

her white ones. I made a great point of this in my conversations with

him, and showed them all Her Majesty’s picture, to which they cried

“Moochlie!” (“Nice!”), and gave the royal salute. I must say I delight

in these little glimpses of Kafir character; I find in those whom I

come across, like my visitors of last week, so much simple dignity

with shrewd common sense. Their minds, too, seem peculiarly adapted

to receive and profit by anything like culture and civilization, and

there certainly is a better foundation on which to build up both these

things than in any other black race with which I am acquainted.

SEPTEMBER 15.

Such an expedition as we have just made! It reminded me exactly of the

dear old New Zealand days, only that I should have been sure to have

had a better horse to ride in New Zealand than here. I have a very poor

opinion of most of the animals here: anything like a tolerable horse is

rare and expensive, and the ordinary run of steeds is ugly to look at,

ill-groomed and ill-favored, besides not being up to much work. Upon

this occasion I was mounted on a coarsely-put-together chestnut, who

was broken in to carry a lady a few evenings ago whilst I was getting

ready for my ride. However, beyond being a little fidgety and difficult

to mount, owing to lurking distrust of my habit, he has no objection

to carry me. But he is as rough as a cart-horse in his paces, and the

way he stops short in his canter or trot, flinging all his legs about

anywhere, is enough to jolt one’s spine out of the crown of one’s head.

As for his mouth, it might as well be a stone wall, and he requires to

be ridden tightly on the curb to keep him from tripping. When you add

to these peculiarities a tendency to shy at every tuft of grass, and

a habit of hanging the entire weight of his head on your bridle-hand

as soon as he gets the least bit jaded, it must be admitted that it

would be easy to find a pleasanter horse for a long, hurried journey.

Still, on the principle of all’s well that ends well, I ought not to be

so severe on my steed, for the expedition ended well, and was really

rather a severe tax on man and beast. This is the way we came to take

it:

Ever since I arrived, now nearly a year ago, I have been hearing of a

certain “bush” or forest some forty-five or fifty miles away, which is

always named when I break into lamentations over the utter treelessness

of Natal. Latterly, I have had even a stronger craving than usual to

see something more than a small plantation of blue gums, infantine oaks

and baby firs, making a dot here and there amid the eternal undulation

of the low hills around. “Seven-Mile Bush” has daily grown more

attractive to my thoughts, and at last we accepted one of many kind and

hospitable invitations thither, and I induced F—— to promise that he

would forego the dear delight of riding down to his barn-like office

for a couple of days, and come with Mr. C—— and me to the “bush.” This

was a great concession on his part; and I may state here that he never

ceased pining for his papers and his arm-chair from the moment we

started until we came back.

It was necessary to make a very early start indeed, and the stars

were still shining when we set off, though the first sunbeams were

creeping brightly and swiftly over the high eastern hills. It was a

fresh morning, in spite of the occasional puff of dust-laden air, which

seemed to warn us every now and then that there was such a thing as

a hot wind to be considered, and also that there had not been a drop

of rain for these last five months. The whole country seems ground to

powder, and the almost daily hot winds keep this powder incessantly

moving about; so it is not exactly pleasant for traveling. We picked up

our Kafir guide as we rode through the town, and made the best of our

way at once across the flats between this and Edendale, which we left

on our right, climbing slowly and tediously up a high hill above it;

then down again and up again, constantly crossing clear, cold, bright

rivulets—a welcome moment to horse and rider, for already our lips

are feeling swollen and baked; across stony reefs and ridges cropping

out from bare hillsides; past many a snug Kafir kraal clinging like

the beehives of a giant to the side of a steep pitch, with the long

red wagon-track stretching out as though for ever and ever before

us. The sun is hot, very hot, but we have left it behind us in the

valleys below, and we sweep along wherever there is a foothold for the

horses, with a light and pleasant air blowing in our faces. Still, it

is with feelings of profound content that at the end of a twenty-mile

stage we see “Taylor’s,” a roadside shanty, looking like a child’s

toy set down on the vast flat around, but uncommonly comfortable and

snug inside, with mealie-gardens and forage-patches around, and more

accommodation than one would have believed possible beneath its low,

thatched eaves from the first bird’s-eye glance. The horses are made

luxuriously comfortable directly in a roomy, cool shed, and we sit down

to an impromptu breakfast in the cleanest of all inn-parlors. I have

no doubt it would have been a very comprehensive and well-arranged

meal, but the worst of it was it never had a chance of being taken as

a whole. Whatever edible the nice, tidy landlady put down on her snowy

cloth vanished like a conjuring trick before she had time to bring the

proper thing to go with it. We ate our breakfast backward and forward,

and all sorts of ways, beginning with jam, sardines, and mustard,

varied by eggs, and ending with rashers of bacon. As for the tea, we

had drunk up all the milk and eaten the sugar by the time the pot

arrived. The only thing which at all daunted us was some freshly-made

boers’ bread, of the color of a sponge, the consistency of clay and

the weight of pig iron. We were quite respectful to that bread, and

only ventured to break off little crusts here and there and eat it

guardedly, for it was a fearful condiment. Still, we managed to eat an

enormous breakfast in spite of it, and so did the horses; and we all

started in highest condition and spirits a little before two o’clock,

having had more than a couple of hours’ rest. After riding hard for

some time, galloping over every yard of anything approaching to broken

ground, we ventured to begin to question our guide—who kept up with us

in an amazing manner, considering the prominence of his little rough

pony’s ribs—as to the remaining distance between us and “Seven-Mile

Bush.” Imagine our horror when he crooked his hand at right angles to

his wrist, and made slowly and distinctly five separate dips with it,

pointing to the horizon as he did so! Now, the alarming part was, that

there were five distinct and ever-rising ranges of hills before us, the

range which made a hard ridge against the dazzling sky being of a deep

and misty purple, so distant was it. We had been assured at Taylor’s

that only twenty-five miles more lay between us and the “bush,” and

those mountains must be _now_ at least thirty miles off. But the guide

only grins and nods his head, and kicks with his bare heels against his

pony’s pronounced ribs, and we hasten on once more. On our right hand,

but some distance off, rises the dark crest of the Swartzkopf Mountain,

and beneath its shadow, extending over many thousand acres of splendid

pasture-ground, is what is known as the Swartzkopf Location, a vast

tract of country reserved—or rather appropriated—to the use of a large

tribe of Kafirs. They dwell here in peace and plenty, and, until the

other day, in prosperity too. But a couple of years ago lung-sickness

broke out and decimated their herds, reducing the tribe to the very

verge of starvation and misery. However, they battled manfully with the

scourge, but it gave them a distrust of cattle, and they took every

opportunity of exchanging oxen for horses, of which they now own a

great number. What we should have called in New Zealand “mobs” of them

were to be seen peacefully pasturing themselves on the slopes around

us, and in almost every nook and hollow nestled a Kafir kraal. Here

and there were large irregular patches of brown on the fast greening

hillsides, and these straggling patches, rarely if ever fenced, were

the mealie-gardens belonging to the kraals.

By four of the clock we have made such good way that we can afford

immediately after crossing Eland’s River, a beautiful stream, to

“off saddle” and sit down and rest by its cool banks for a quarter

of an hour. Then, tightening up our girths, we push off once more.

It has been up hill the whole way, just excepting the sudden sharp

descent into a deep valley on the farther side of each range; but

the increasing freshness—nay, sharpness—of the air proved to us how

steadily we had been climbing up to a high level ever since we had

passed through Edendale. From this point of the journey the whole

scenic character of the country became widely different from anything

I have hitherto seen in Natal. For the first time I began to understand

what a wealth of beauty lies hidden away among her hills and valleys,

and that the whole country is not made up of undulating downs, fertile

flats and distant purple hills. At the top of the very first ridge

up which we climbed after crossing Eland’s River a perfectly new and

enchanting landscape opened out before us, and it gained in majesty

and beauty with every succeeding mile of our journey. Ah! how can I

make you see it in all its grandeur of form and glory of color? The

ground is broken up abruptly into magnificent masses—cliffs, terraces

and rocky crags. The hills expand into abrupt mountain-ranges, serrated

in bold relief against the loveliest sky blazing with coming sunset

splendors. Every cleft—or _kloof_, as it is called here—is filled

with fragments of the giant forest which until quite lately must have

clothed these rugged mountain-sides. Distant hill-slopes, still bare

with wintry leanness, catch some slanting sun-rays on their scanty

covering of queer, reddish grass, and straightway glow like sheets of

amethyst and topaz, and behind them lie transparent deep-blue shadows

of which no pigment ever spread on mortal palette could give the

exquisite delicacy and depth. Under our horses’ feet the turf might be

off the Sussex downs, so close and firm and delicious is it—the very

thing for sheep, of which we only see a score here and there. “Why

are there not more sheep?” I ask indignantly, with my old squatter

instincts coming back in full force upon me. Mr. C—— translates my

question to the Kafir guide, who grins and kicks his pony’s ribs and

says, “No can keep ship here. Plenty Kafir dog: eat up all ships two,

tree day.” “Yes, that is exactly the reason,” Mr. C—— says, “but I

wanted you to hear it from himself.” And ever after this, I,

remembering the dearness and scarcity of mutton in Maritzburg, and

seeing all this splendid feed growing for nothing, look with an eye

of extreme disfavor and animosity on all the gaunt, lean curs I

see prowling about the kraals. Almost every Kafir we meet has

half a dozen of these poaching-looking brutes at his heels, and

it exasperates me to hear that there _is_ a dog law or ordinance, or

something of that sort, “only it has not come into operation yet.” I

wish it would come into operation to-morrow, and so does every farmer

in the country, I should think. Yes, in spite of this fairest of fair

scenes—and in all my gypsy life I have never seen anything much more

beautiful—I feel quite cross and put out to think of imaginary fat

sheep being harried by these useless, hideous dogs.

But the horses are beginning to go a little wearily, and gladly pause

to wet their muzzles and cool their hoofs in every brook we cross.

I am free to confess that I am getting very tired, for nothing is

so wearying as a sudden, hurried journey like this, and I am also

excessively hungry and thirsty. The sun dips down quite suddenly behind

a splendid confusion of clouds and mountain-tops, lights up the whole

sky for a short while with translucent masses of crimson and amber,

which fade swiftly away into strangest, tenderest tints of primrose and

pale green, and then a flood of clear cold moonlight breaks over all

and bathes everything in a differing but equally beautiful radiance.

Three ridges have now been climbed, and the pertinacious guide only

dips his hand twice more in answer to my peevish questions about the

distance. Nay, he promises in wonderful Dutch and Kafir phraseology to

show me the “baas’s” house (whither we are bound) from the very next

ridge. But what a climb it is! and what a panorama do we look down

upon from the topmost crag before commencing the steep descent, this

time through a bit of dense forest! It is all as distinct as day, and

yet there is that soft, ineffable veil of mystery and silence which

moonlight wraps up everything in. We look over immense tree-tops, over

plains which seem endless beneath the film of evening mist creeping

over them, to where the broad Umkomanzi rushes and roars amid great

boulders and rocks, leaping every here and there over a crag down to

a lower level of its wide and rocky bed. In places the fine river

widens out into a mere, and then it sleeps tranquilly enough in the

moonlight, making great patches of shimmering silver amid the profound

shadows cast by hill and forest. Beyond, again, are mountains, always

mountains, and one more day’s journey like this would take us into

Adam Kop’s Land. As we look at it all now, it does indeed seem “a

sleepy world of dreams;” but in another moment the panorama is shut

out, for we are amid the intense darkness of the forest-path, stepping

carefully down what resembles a stone ladder placed at an angle of 45°.

Of course I am frightened, and of course my fright shows itself in

crossness and in incoherent reproaches. I feel as if I were slipping

down on my horse’s neck; and so I am, I believe. But nobody will “take

me off,” which is what I earnestly entreat. Both my gentlemen retain

unruffled good-humor, and adjure me “not to think about it,” coupled

with assurances of perfect safety. I hear, however, a great deal of

slipping and sliding and rolling of displaced rocks even after these

consoling announcements of safety, and orders are given to each weary

steed to “hold up;” which orders are not at all reassuring. Somebody

told me somewhere—it seems months ago, but it must have been early

in the afternoon—that this particular and dreadful hill was only

three-quarters of a mile from the “baas’s;” so you may imagine my

mingled rage and disappointment at hearing that it was still rather

more than three miles off. And three miles at this stage of the journey

is equal to thirteen at an earlier date. It is wonderful how well the

horses hold out. This last bit of the road is almost flat, winding

round the gentlest undulation possible, and it is as much as I can

do to hold the chestnut, who has caught sight evidently of twinkling

lights there under the lee of that great wooded cliff. No sound can

ever be so delightful to a wearied and belated traveler as the bark

of half a dozen dogs, and no greeting more grateful than their rough

caresses, half menace and half play. But there is a much warmer and

more cordial welcome waiting for us behind the _sako bono_ of the

dogs, and I find myself staggering about as if the water I have been

drinking so freely all day had been something much stronger. On my

feet at last in such a pretty sitting-room! Pictures, books, papers,

all sorts of comforts and conveniences, and, sight of joy! a tea-table

all ready, even to the tea-pot, which had been brought in when the

dogs announced us. If I had even sixpence for every cup of tea I drank

that evening, I should be a rich woman to the end of my days. As for

the milk, deliciously fresh from the cow, it was only to be equaled by

the cream; and you must have lived all these months in Natal before

you can appreciate as we did the butter, which looked and tasted like

butter, instead of the pale, salt, vapid compound, as much lard as

anything else, for which we pay three shillings and sixpence a pound in

Maritzburg, and which has been costing six shillings in Port Elizabeth

all this winter.

It is always a marvel to me, arriving at night at these out-of-the-way

places, which seem the very Ultima Thule of the habitable globe, _how_

the furniture, the glass and china, the pictures and ornaments and

books, get there. How has anybody energy to think of transporting

all these perishable articles over that road? Think of their jolting

in a bullock-wagon down that hill! One fancies if one lived here it

must needs be a Robinson-Crusoe existence; instead of which it is as

comfortable as possible; and if one did not remember the distance and

the road and the country, one might be in England, except for the Kafir

boys, barefooted and white-garmented, something like choristers, who

are gliding about with incessant relays of food for us famished ones.

The sweet little golden-haired children, rosy and fresh as the bough

of apple-blossoms they are playing with, the pretty châtelaine in her

fresh toilette,—all might have been taken up in a beneficent fairy’s

thumb and transported, a moment ago, from the heart of civilization

to this its farthest extremity. As for sleep, you must slumber in

just such a bed if you want to know what a good night’s rest is,

and then wake up as we did, with all memories of the long, wearying

day’s journey clean blotted out of one’s mind, and nothing in it but

eagerness not to lose a moment of the lovely fresh and cool day before

us. Even the sailing clouds are beautiful, and the shadows they cast

over the steep mountains, the broad rivers and the long dark belt of

forest are more beautiful still. Of course, the “bush” is the great

novelty to us who have not seen a tree larger than a dozen years’

growth could make it since we landed; and it is especially beautiful

just now, for although, like all native forests, it is almost entirely

evergreen (there is a more scientific word than that, isn’t there?),

still, there are patches and tufts of fresh green coming out in

delicate spring tints, which show vividly against the sombre mass of

foliage. But oh, I wish they had not such names! Handed down to us

from our Dutch predecessors, they must surely have got changed in some

incomprehensible fashion, for what rhyme or reason, what sense or

satire, is there in such a name as “cannibal stink-wood”?—applied, too,

to a graceful, handsome tree, whose bark gives out an aromatic though

pungent perfume. Is it not a libel? For a tree with a particularly

beautifully-veined wood, of a deep amber color, they could think of

no more poetical or suggestive name than simply “yellow-wood:” a tree

whose wood is of a rich veined brown, which goes, too, beautifully with

the yellow-wood in furniture, is merely called “iron-wood,” because it

chances to be hard; and so forth.

Before going to the “bush,” however, we consider ourselves bound to

go and look at the great saw-mill down by the Umkomanzi, where all

these trees are divided and subdivided, cut into lengths of twenty

feet, sawn into planks, half a dozen at a time, and otherwise changed

from forest kings to plain, humdrum piles and slabs and posts for

bridges, rooftrees, walls, and what not. There is the machinery at

work, with just one ripple, as it were, of the rushing river turned

aside by a little sluice, to drive the great wheel round and set all

the mysterious pistons and levers moving up and down in their calm,

monotonous strength, doing all sorts of miraculous things in the most

methodical, commonplace manner. I was much struck by the physiognomy

of the only two white men employed about this mill. There were some

assistant Kafirs of course, but these two in their widely-different

ways were at once repellent and interesting. One of them was, I think,

the biggest man I ever saw. To say that he looked like a tall tree

himself among his fellows is to give you, after all, the best idea

of his enormous height and powerful build. He moved huge logs about

with scarcely an effort, and it was entirely for his enormous physical

strength that our host kept him in his place. I did not need to be

told he was one of the most persistent and consistent bad characters

imaginable, for a single glance at his evil countenance was enough

to suggest that he could hardly be a very satisfactory member of

society. He had only one eye, and about as hang-dog, sullen, lowering

a countenance as one would see out of the hulks. His “mate” was a

civil, tidy, wizen-looking, elderly man, who might have appeared

almost respectable by the side of the bigger villain if his shaking

hand and bleared, restless eyes had not told _his_ story plainly

enough. Still, if he could only be kept out of temptation the old man

might be trusted; but our host confessed that he did not half like

retaining the services of the other, and yet did not know where to

find any one who would or could do his work so easily and admirably.

It is almost impossible to get any men to come and live up here, so

far away from their fellow-creatures and from everything except their

work; so one has to put up with a thousand drawbacks in the service

one is able to procure. I was glad when we turned our backs upon that

villainous-looking giant and strolled beneath a perfect sun and sky

and balmy air toward the lowest kloof or cleft where the great “bush”

ran down between two steep spurs. The grass of the downs over which

we walked had all the elasticity of tread of turf to our feet, but

they ended abruptly in a sort of terrace, under which ran a noisy,

chattering brooklet in a vast hurry to reach the Umkomanzi over yonder.

It is easy to scramble down among the tangle of ferns and reeds and

across the boulders which this long dry winter has left bare, and so

strike one of the Bushmen’s paths without difficulty, and get into

the heart of the forest before we allow ourselves to sit down and

look around us. How wonderfully poetical and beautiful it all is!—the

tall, stately trees around us, with their smooth magnificent boles

shooting up straight as a willow wand for sixty feet and more before

putting forth their crown of lofty branches, the more diminutive

undergrowth of gracefulest shrubs and plumy tufts of fern and lovely

wild flowers—violets, clematis, wood-anemones and hepaticas—showing

here and there a modest gleam of color. But indeed the very mosses and

lichens at our feet are a week’s study, and so are the details of the

delicate green tracery creeping close to the ground. The trees, the

actual great forest trees, are our delight, however, and we never weary

of calling to each other to “come and look at this one,” extemporizing

measuring-lines from the endless green withies which hang in loops and

festoons from the higher branches. Thirty feet round five feet from the

ground is not an uncommon measurement, and it is half sad, half amusing

to see how in an hour or so we too begin to look upon everything as

timber, to call the most splendid trees “blocks” (the woodman’s word),

and to speculate and give opinions as to the best way of “falling” the

beautiful stems. Up above our heads the foliage seems all interlaced

and woven together by a perfect network of these monkey ropes—a stout

and sturdy species of _liane_, really—such as I have seen swinging

from West India forest trees. Here they are actually used as a sort

of trapeze by the troops of baboons which live in these great woods,

coming down in small armies when the mealies are ripe, and carrying

off literally armsful of cobs. The Kafirs dread the baboons more than

anything else, and there is a regular organized system of warfare

between them, in which the baboons by no means get the worst. I heard

a sickening story of how only last season the Kafirs of a kraal close

by, infuriated by their losses, managed to catch an old baboon, leader

of his troop, and skinned him and let him go again into the woods. It

is too horrible to think of such cruelty, and it seemed a blot upon

the lovely idyllic scene around us. All the wild animals with which

the bush was teeming until a very few years ago are gradually being

driven farther and farther back into the highest part, which has not

yet been touched by axe or hatchet. There are still many kinds of buck,

however—we saw three splendid specimens grazing just outside—besides

other game. It must—not so long ago, either—have been the quiet forest

home of many a wild creature, for there are pits now to be seen, one

of which we came across with sharp stakes at the bottom, dug to trap

elephants, whose bones lie there to this day. Tigers also have been

seen, and panthers and leopards, but they grow scarcer every year.

The aboriginal inhabitants of the border country beyond, the little

Bushmen—the lowest type of human creatures—used to come down and hunt

in great numbers here in this very spot where we are sitting, and

traces of their ingenious methods of snaring their prey are to be seen

in many places.

As I sat there, with the tinkle of the water in my ears, sole break in

the “charmèd silence” around, I could not make up my mind which was the

most enchanting, to look up or down—up to where the tenderest tint of

cobalt blue showed through the flicker of green leaves nearly a hundred

feet above us, and where a sudden terror among the birds drove them in

bright-plumaged flight from bough to bough; or down on the ground among

the delicious brown leaves and wonderful minutiæ of diminutive tendril

and flower. Here and there were fallen crimson and yellow leaves,

riveting the eye for a moment by their vivid glow, or the young fronds

of a rare fern over yonder are pushing up their curled horns of pale

green. A month hence it will be all carpeted with wild flowers, and the

heaths will be spires of tiny bells. There is also a coarse but sweet

grass, growing luxuriantly, on which the cattle love to feed when all

the herbage outside is parched and burned to the very root.

As I read over what I have written, I am filled with a deep disgust to

perceive how impossible it has been for me to catch even the faintest

reflection of the charm of that forest-glade—how its subtle beauty is

not, by any poor words of mine, to be transferred to paper—how its

stillness and its life, its grandeur and its delicate prettinesses, the

aroma of the freshly-cut logs, the chirrup of the cicalas, the twitter

of the birds, all, all escape me. Yet I shall have failed indeed if

I have not been able to convey to you that it was a delicious hour,

and that I enjoyed every moment of it. I am only a woman, so I was

content to sit there plaiting a crown of ferns, and thinking how I

should tell you all about it some day, perhaps. My companions conversed

together, and their talk was entirely about killing something—“sport”

they called it—how best they could get a shot at those graceful bucks

over yonder; what a pity the close season had begun; what partridges

there were; when the wild-ducks would come down to that large mere

shining in the distance; whether there were any wild-pigeons; how far

into the unexplored bush one must penetrate to get a shot at a panther;

and so forth. It seemed a desecration to talk of taking life on such a

heavenly morning, and I was glad when it all ended in a project of a

fishing-excursion after a late luncheon.

As we found we should be obliged to start early to-morrow morning, I

decided to stay at home and rest this afternoon; and I did not regret

my resolution, for it was very pleasant by the fire, and our beautiful

morning turned into a raw, cold drizzle. But, as the people about

here say, it has really forgotten how to rain, and it is more like a

Scotch mist than anything else. Whatever it may be called, it blots

out mountain and forest and river, and causes the fishing-excursion

to turn into the dismalest failure. Next morning, too, when we start

after breakfast, we are all glad of our waterproofs (what _should_ I

do without my ulster?), and the ground is as slippery as though it

had been soaped. Our farewells are made, and we declare that we have

no need of our Kafir guide again, though I confess to misgivings as

to how we are to find our road through so thick a mist. It has also

been decided, for the sake of the horses, to take them only as far as

Taylor’s to-night, and so break the journey. But the question is, Shall

we ever find Taylor’s? for it is a little off the track, and we cannot

see five yards to our right hand or our left. We are obliged to go very

slowly, and there are places, steep up and down hill, where in spite

of precaution and picking out grass or stones to go over, our horses’

feet fly from under them, and we each in our turn come down on the damp

red clay in an awkward sprawl. However, we do not disgrace ourselves

by tumbling off, and my poor habit fares the worst, for the chestnut

always seems to pick himself up, in some odd way, by its help; and the

process is not beneficial to it. Eland’s River is crossed early in

the afternoon, and then, slippery or not, we are forced to push on,

for it seems as though it intended to be pitchy dark by four o’clock,

and the mist turns into a thick, fine rain. At last, about half-past

four, we hear on our left the joyful sound of barking dogs and crowing

cocks, and the horses of their own accord show a simultaneous desire to

turn off the track, to which, with its guiding wagon-wheels, we have

so persistently clung. If it be _not_ Taylor’s—if it turns out that

these sounds come only from a Kafir kraal—then indeed I don’t know what

we shall do, for we can never find the track again. It is an anxious

moment, and Taylor’s is so small and so low that we are as likely as

not to ride right over it; but no, there is a wagon, and behind the

wagon, and not much higher, is a thatched roof, and under that thatched

roof are warmth and food and shelter and a warm, cordial welcome; all

of which good things we are enjoying in five minutes’ time. As for the

horses, they are rubbed down and put to stand in a warm shed, with

bedding up to their knees and a perfect orgie of mealies and green

forage before them in boxes. Let us hope they enjoyed the contrast

between indoors and out of doors as much as we did. At all events, they

were freshness itself next morning, when we made another start—not

quite so early, for only the lesser half of our long journey lay before

us, and the flood of sunshine made it worth while to wait a little and

let the soapy clay tracks have a chance to get dry.

It was exquisitely fresh and balmy about nine o’clock, when, after a

capital breakfast, we did start at last, and the well-washed hills

had actually put on quite a spring-green tint since we passed them a

couple of days ago from yesterday’s long looked-for, much-wanted rain.

I went through many anxieties, however, on that return journey, because

my two companions, who were in the most tearing, school-boy spirits,

insisted on leaving the road with its guiding marks of wagon-wheels, as

well as every landmark to which I fondly clung, and taking me across

country, over hill and dale, through swampy hollows and over rocky

goat-paths, until I was quite bewildered and thoroughly incredulous as

to where we should emerge. It is true that the dark crest of Swartzkopf

lay steadily to our left, just where it should be, but I invariably

protested we were all wrong when I had any leisure or breath to do

anything but “hold on with my eyelids” up and down hill. At last we

climbed up our last hill-face, and there, below us, literally smiling

in the sunshine, lay the pretty little mission settlement of Edendale.

We were exactly where we wanted, topographically speaking, to be, but

between us and Edendale the mountain dropped sheer down, as it seemed

to me, and naught but a goat-path was there. “Of course we are going

to get off and lead our horses down,” I fondly hope. No such thing!

I can’t very well get off by myself, for the precipice is so sheer

that I should certainly drop down a hundred feet or so. F—— steadily

declines to “take me off,” and begins to slip and slither down the

track on horseback. I feel my saddle getting into all sorts of odd

positions, and I believe I am seated on my horse’s ears, although I

lean back until I can nearly touch his tail. It is really horrible. I

get more and more cross every moment, and scold F—— and reproach Mr.

C—— furiously all the way down, without eliciting the smallest sign

of remorse from either. But it is very difficult to remain cross when

once we have reached the foot of that cruel descent, for it is all

inexpressibly lovely and calm and prosperous that beautiful spring

morning. Everybody seems busy, and yet good-humored. The little black

children grinned and saluted on their way to school; the elders cried

“Sako bono, inkosa!” as they looked up from their basket-plaiting or

their wagon-making; the mill-wheel turned merrily with a busy clatter

inexpressibly cool and charming; the numerous fowls and ducks cackled

and quacked as they scuttled from under our horses’ feet. We rode down

the main street, with its neat row of unburnt brick houses on either

hand, across a little river, and so, under avenues of syringas whose

heavy perfume filled the delicious air, out into the open country once

more. It is nearly a dead level between this and Maritzburg, and the

road is in good order after the long winter drought; so we make the

best of our way, and hardly draw rein until we are under the lee of the

hill on which Fort Napier stands. Here is a villainous bit of road,

a perfect study of ingenuity as to cross-drains, holes and pitfalls

generally; so the horses take breath once more for an easy canter down

the quiet straight streets of the sleepy little Dutch town. Our cottage

lies beyond it and across the river, but it is still early, hardly noon

in fact, when we pull up at our own stable-door, and the horses seem

every whit as fresh and in as good condition as when we started, yet

they have gone close upon one hundred miles from first to last,

Over hill, over dale,

Through brush, through brier.

SEPTEMBER 25.

I declare I have not said anything about the weather for a long

time. I cannot finish more appropriately than by one of my little

meteorological reports. The skies are trying to remember how to

rain; we have every now and then a cold, gray day—a day which is my

particular delight, it is so like an English one; then rain more or

less heavy, and an attempt at a thunderstorm. The intervening days

are brightly glaring and exceedingly hot. Everything is bursting

hurriedly and luxuriantly into bloom; my scraggy rose-bushes are

thickly covered with buds, which blow into splendid roses after every

shower; the young oaks are a mass of tender, luxuriant green, and even

the unpoetical blue gums try hard to assume a fresh spring tint; the

fruit trees look like large bouquets of pink blossom, and the laquot

trees afford good sport for G—— in climbing and stone-throwing. On

the veldt the lilies are pushing up their green sheaths and brilliant

cups through the still hard ground, the black hill-slopes are turning

a vivid green, and the weeds are springing up in millions all over my

field-like flower-beds. Spring is always lovely everywhere, but nowhere

lovelier than in “fair Natal.”

[Illustration: Decoration]

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* * * * *

Transcriber’s note:

Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected. All other

variations in hyphenation, spelling and punctuation remain unchanged.

In the first section of Part III “an old artillery bushy” might well

be a typographical error for busby.

isiZulu words have been left unchanged, although the spelling used is

not necessarily correct by modern standards.

Life in South Africa · 第 12 / 12 章