Hunt and his party. These, after a journey the account of which reads like
a romance, through sufferings of all kinds and over difficulties all but
insurmountable, reached their destination, haggard and in rags.
The arrival, soon after, of the annual vessel, the _Beaver_, with
reinforcements and supplies, cheered them all and made possible the
establishment of interior posts. The _Beaver_ proceeded to Alaska, in
compliance with an agreement between Astor and the Russian Fur Company,
which had been made with the consent of both governments; and Hunt went
with her. The absence of Hunt, which was prolonged by untoward events,
proved fatal to the Astoria enterprise. Just as the partners from the
several posts were bringing to the rendezvous the first-fruits of what
promised an abundant harvest in the future, McTavish, another Northwest
partner, surprised Astoria's people with the alarming news that war had
been declared between the two countries, and that he was expecting a
British armed vessel to set up a Northwest establishment at the mouth of
the river. Without waiting for the appearance of this vessel, without any
attempt to send their treasure inland, and although the Astor Company was
in a stronger trading position than its rival, McDougal, chief factor in
Hunt's absence, sold out to McTavish all Astor's property for one third its
value. Opposition was offered by some of the partners and the American
clerks were furious, but Hunt's ominous absence dampened opposition and
cleared McDougal's way. It is significant that McDougal soon after received
a valuable share in the Northwest Company. Had Astor been there he would
have "defied them all." "Had our place and our property been fairly
captured I should have preferred it," wrote Mr. Astor to Hunt, who
doubtless shared the spirit of his chief. Shortly after the sale, a British
officer took formal possession of the country in the name of his Britannic
Majesty, and Astoria became Fort George. Although the treaty of Ghent
restored the _status ante bellum_, Oregon remained for many years in the
actual possession of England, through the occupation of its chartered
companies. Mr. Astor's desire to reoccupy Astoria received no backing by
the government and so no American settlement was even attempted until
Captain Wyeth's venture at Fort William in 1832, which proved futile.
[Illustration FORT VANCOUVER, 1833.]
This change from American to British possession was marked by a transfer of
the metropolis from Fort George to Fort Vancouver. When Dr. John
McLoughlin, upon the absorption of the Northwestern by the Hudson Bay
Company, in 1821, was sent out as "Chief Factor of the Columbia River
Territory," he declared that the chief post should be as central as
possible to the trade; that after leaving the mouth of the river there is
no disadvantage in going to the head of navigation; and that a permanent
settlement must be surrounded by an agricultural country. These
considerations which took McLoughlin to Vancouver are those which to-day
determine the commercial strength of Portland, across the river from
Vancouver. Thus Fort George sunk to a subordinate position. After the
boundary was determined a new American town sprung up under the old name
Astoria, where there are large salmon canneries.
Vancouver, with the outlying posts scattered throughout the territory, was
the centre of a semi-feudal organization, and its life was picturesque and
full of charm.
Within the palisades was the residence of the Chief Factor ("Governor" by
courtesy), surrounded by those of the other gentlemen servants of the
Company; together with the stores, offices, and all other important
buildings. Between the fort and the river lay a clean, neat, and decorous
village of about forty log houses, occupied by the inferior servants of the
Company, who were, for the most part, French Canadians. Nearly every man,
from the "Governor" down, had an Indian wife; for no white woman had as yet
set foot in Oregon. One of these servants writes: "They all had Indian
women, never more than one; old Dr. McLoughlin would hang them if they
had." The farm, blacksmith's shop, and other productive activities at
Vancouver not only furnished the subordinate posts of the Company, but
provisions were sent to Alaska, exports were made to the Hawaiian Islands,
and the American settlers were dependent upon this post for many of their
supplies. Not only was Vancouver the trading centre, it was also the "heart
and brains of Oregon Territory." The post hospital offered relief to
American settlers as well as to the subordinate posts. Here was established
the first school in the territory. The services of the English Church were
regularly maintained, and opportunity was offered to missionaries of all
denominations to hold service. An annual dispatch kept open communication
with the outside world and brought books and papers from the centres of
civilization.
The central figure and inspiring genius of Vancouver was Dr. McLoughlin,
who was a striking and remarkable character. The remoteness of his post,
combined with a self-reliant nature, made him practically independent of
his superior officers in Montreal or London. He was indeed, absolute
monarch of all the territory west of the Rocky Mountains. But the "good
doctor," though firm in character, was a benevolent and a beneficent
despot. "Standing over six feet, six inches, in height, he was of
commanding presence, with courtly, yet affable manners." Red man and white
man alike revered and loved him, for to each alike he was kind, and at the
same time just. He was the soul of hospitality and every traveller found at
Vancouver a ready welcome to a seat at the rich but temperate board in the
common dining-hall, and a bed in the doctor's house. Library, horses, and
boats were all at the visitor's command. This spirit of hospitality, joined
to a freedom from national prejudice, characterized the attitude of
McLoughlin towards the missionaries and other American immigrants who
ultimately began to come into the territory. There was scarcely a party
which was not indebted to him for material assistance in getting started,
as well as for a courteous welcome at the fort. Some indeed owed their
lives to him and the other officers at Vancouver, and once at least their
prompt help was in marked contrast to the indifference of the American
settlement. To this service the missionary records bear constant testimony,
and Lieutenant Frémont, "the pathfinder," says in his report: "I found many
American Emigrants at the Fort. Others had already crossed the river to
their land of promise--the Willamette valley."
We must now follow these American immigrants, for with them the political
dominance is to pass from Great Britain to the United States, and the
metropolis to move from Vancouver to the Falls of the Willamette. Curiously
enough, McLoughlin in his own course will typify this transition.
The very first settlers in the Willamette Valley were servants of the
Hudson Bay Company, who settled there by the advice and with the
assistance of McLoughlin, who from the first had properly estimated the
value of this river and valley. He himself took possession of the falls,
with the adjacent land, and held them as a personal claim, "until such time
as there should be established a government which could give him title."
The town which he developed on this site he called Oregon City.
The first American settlers on the Willamette were the Methodist missionary
party, under Jason Lee, which crossed the plains in 1834. To these
McLoughlin gave material aid. Of the Canadians, Lee's nephew writes: "They
gave us a very polite and generous welcome to the best they could set
before us."
Lee's mission was to the Indians, but meeting with great discouragement in
this direction, he turned his attention to the more interesting task of
forming a political state, which should be American and also Methodist. The
missionary work was not abandoned, but only subordinated. In furtherance of
his political plans, Lee secured both money and immigrants from the eastern
States and invoked the protection of the United States Government. Since
1820 there had been a party in Congress, representing a sentiment in the
country outside, which desired to abrogate our treaty with England and
establish our government over the whole of Oregon Territory. But
notwithstanding an "Oregon fever," developed by Lee and others, the United
States was not yet ready for any action with regard to the new territory.
In the meantime immigrations from the western States had brought to the
Willamette Valley a number of people differing in spirit from the
missionaries and not at all in harmony with them. These after a while
outnumbered the adherents of the Mission. Hence arose three parties in the
Valley of the Willamette, two American and one British. The new American
party was in favor of forming a provisional government, which should
maintain order until the boundary question now burning between England and
America should be decided. The missionary party accepted this as an evil
less than the rule of the Hudson Bay Company, which was the only
established authority. The Canadians wanted only quiet. As a result, in
1845 was completed the organization of an independent commonwealth, which
recognized the sovereignty of neither America nor Great Britain, but
which allowed every man to retain his individual citizenship under either
government until the territorial question should be settled. Against the
wish of most of the missionary party, but upon the insistence of the more
liberal Americans, the plan was extended so as to include the country north
of the Columbia River, and McLoughlin was invited to unite in this
organization. The Chief Factor thought it wise to put the property of his
Company under the protection of a government which would probably be formed
whether or no, and therefore he entered the organization.
The seat of the new government was called by the legislature, "Willamette
Falls," but the place was afterwards incorporated under the name of Oregon
City given it by McLoughlin, its founder.
There had long been disaffection in England over McLoughlin's liberal
attitude towards the Americans. A climax was reached when Lieutenants Warre
and Vasouver, who came to the Columbia River shortly after the formation of
the provisional government, reported McLoughlin to be a disloyal subject,
if not an unfaithful servant. The Chief Factor's defence was complete and
he was not without friends, both in the Council of the Company and in the
House of Commons. However, moved by a combination of considerations, he
resigned his office, retired to Oregon City, and, after the settlement of
the boundary question, became a citizen of the United States. For this
much-vexed boundary question was settled by treaty in 1846. Polk was
elected upon the platform, "Fifty-four forty, or fight." But more moderate
counsels prevailed, and a compromise was made upon the forty-ninth parallel
of latitude. This determination of the boundary line had as a result the
extinguishing of the Hudson Bay trade on the Columbia River, and Vancouver
was purchased by the United States for an army post, which is still
maintained. A town has also grown up outside the reservation.
Seldom has fate been more ironical than in its treatment of Dr. McLoughlin.
Driven from Vancouver for his kindness to the missionaries, he was now
defrauded of his claim at Oregon City by the missionary party, and to
accomplish this iniquity anti-British prejudice was appealed to, in
concealment of the fact that the doctor had applied for American
citizenship. After his death, restitution was made to his children. Some of
his descendants now live in Portland.
In presenting a portrait of Dr. McLoughlin to the Oregon Pioneers, in 1887,
on behalf of the city of Portland, Judge Deady said: "He stands out to-day
in bold relief as the first man in the history of this country--the pioneer
of pioneers."
With the passing of Vancouver, Oregon City became the metropolis. And when
Oregon was erected into a Territory of the United States, in 1848, Portland
was as yet only "a place twelve miles from Oregon City."
Shortly after the incidents mentioned at the opening of this chapter,
Overton sold his interest to F.W. Pettygrove. A year later Lovejoy and
Pettygrove erected a business building, known as the "shingle store," on
what is now the corner of Front and Washington streets. Hitherto known as
"the village" or "Stumptown," the little settlement was now dignified with
the name of Portland. Lovejoy, who was a native of Boston, wanted to call
the town after his birthplace, but Pettygrove, who was equally loyal to
Maine, preferred Portland, and the tossing of a coin gave the choice to
Pettygrove. What a pity they could not have compromised on the Indian
_Multnomah_! Lovejoy, who was a man of education and had been prominent in
the provisional government, sold his interest in the future city to
Benjamin Stark and eventually died a poor man. Other transfers of interest
made Daniel Lounsbury, Stephen Coffin, and W.W. Chapman partners with Stark
in the ownership of the town site, and under these four men began the
active development of the town. This development, however, soon met with a
decided check from two events which in turn led to the subsequent
upbuilding and supremacy of Portland.
[Illustration CITY HALL, PORTLAND.]
The massacre of Whitman and his companions at Walla Walla by the Cayuse
Indians led to a war of vengeance, which drew almost every man who could
bear arms away from normal pursuits. Portland contributed a company of
infantry. The movements of the troops, which rendezvoused at Portland
during this war, demonstrated its superiority over the city at the falls as
a point of arrival and departure with regard to the Columbia River. This
discovery was to influence the future location of the metropolis.
The other event mentioned was the discovery of gold in California. The
immediate effect of this discovery was a stampede from Oregon. Portland
contained at one time, it is said, but three adults. Soon, however, the
demand for provisions in California opened up a lucrative trade in the
products of the fertile Willamette Valley and drew men back to the soil.
This California trade afforded an opportunity to develop Portland's
advantages which the Cayuse war had emphasized, and which Lovejoy suspected
when he said, "I observed the masts and booms of vessels which had been
left there and it occurred to me that this was the place for a town."
[Illustration PORTLAND IN 1850.]
Up to 1848, the annual arrivals in the Columbia had ranged from three to
eight vessels. In 1849 there were more than fifty arrivals. The shore of
the Willamette at Portland was lined with all kinds of vessels, and wharfs
and warehouses were in great demand.
It is upon this command of the two waterways, with her superior port, that
the permanent commercial supremacy of Portland rests. The most conspicuous
name in connection with this development of Portland's shipping interests
is that of John H. Couch. In 1840 Captain Couch brought into the Columbia
the first American trader which had crossed the bar since the Wyeth
expedition. This was the brig _Maryland_, from Newburyport, Mass. After
subsequent voyages he brought his family from Newburyport and settled in
Portland, in 1849. In partnership with his brother-in-law, Captain
Flanders, he built wharfs and warehouses and established the first regular
shipping business in the city. The first brig sailing from Portland to
China, _Emma Preston_, was dispatched by Couch & Co.
Such has been the development of Portland shipping that it is now well up
among the great ports of the country. Last year (1900), according to the
annual review by the _Oregonian_, it was ahead of Philadelphia and
Baltimore. Its wheat shipments (15,858,387 bushels) exceeded those of San
Francisco, and more than equalled the combined shipments of Tacoma and
Seattle.
[Illustration THE PORT OF PORTLAND.]
[Illustration JUDGE MATTHEW P. DEADY.]
Henry Villard's great genius suffered no aberration when he selected
Portland as the centre of Pacific coast transportation. For not only does
this city command the waterways, but it is also the great railway centre.
Four transcontinental systems, beside local lines, make the Union Station
their actual terminus. The Hotel Portland, one of Villard's many projects,
should be to Portlanders a memorial of Villard's brilliance and public
spirit, as to the tourist it offers, with its elegance and comforts, a
suggestive contrast to the camp of the early traveller.
[Illustration VIEW OF PORTLAND, 1900.]
To conclude from Portland's rapid growth and commercial supremacy that it
is a typical "western" town, would be to strike wide of the mark. One must
go east from Portland to find the typical characteristics, good and bad, of
a western town. Portland's character was largely formed before the railway
came, for it had a population of nearly twenty thousand before there was
connection by rail with the United States. This population was made up of
the influx from the Willamette Valley, whose civilization had been deeply
impressed by the religious and educational establishment at its foundation,
and of a good class of immigrants coming directly from the eastern States.
A characterization of Portland by Judge Deady, in 1868, is illuminating:
"Theatrical amusements never ranked high. There is no theatre house in the
town fit to be called such. On the other hand, church-going is
comparatively common."
[Illustration A CORNER IN CHINATOWN.]
As early as 1849 some citizens of Portland organized an association,
elected trustees, and built a school and meeting-house at a cost of over
two thousand dollars. This was the first enterprise of the kind on the
coast. Within a few years all the prominent religious denominations were
represented by houses of worship. The earliest of these buildings were
those of the Methodists and Congregationalists. The Methodists, Roman
Catholics, and Episcopalians also supported institutions of learning and of
charity. No single religious denomination or individual clergyman has
exerted such a commanding influence in the religious development of the
city as to warrant any attempt at discrimination. It may be less invidious
if two among the many citizens who have influenced the thought and
ministered to the higher non-ecclesiastical life of the city should be
briefly noticed. Matthew P. Deady, who was prominent in the territorial
government of Oregon, and whose was a controlling mind in framing both the
organic and statute law of the State, was, upon the admission of the State,
appointed Federal Judge, which office he held until his death. Upon his
appointment he secured the location of the court at Portland, and
identified himself with the city. The city, too, became identified with
him, inasmuch as the act of its incorporation passed the Legislature as it
came from his hand. Judge Deady ever strove to promote the higher interests
of Portland, through his important office, which he filled with great
ability; through the institutions of the Episcopal Church, of which he was
an honored member; and through the various channels which offer themselves
to the public spirited citizen. His monument, perhaps, is the Public
Library, which, with its fine building, is largely the result of his
interest and efforts; although much of the money for the building was
directly derived from a bequest.
[Illustration THE PORTLAND.]
When it is known that the _Oregonian_ has been published in Portland
practically since the foundation of the city, and that it is deemed by
competent judges to be the best edited newspaper west of the Atlantic
coast, the conclusion is not far away that the man who has been the editor
and master mind of that journal for more than thirty years must have
wielded an immense influence upon the thought and opinion of Portland and
the Pacific Northwest. That man is Harvey W. Scott.
It is needless to say, these two men do not stand alone. C.E.S. Wood, Esq.,
might be named as one who has contributed more than any, perhaps, to the
development of the city in the appreciation of and interest in art. Judge
George H. Williams, who was Attorney-General in Grant's Cabinet, might be
cited as an example of those who have served the nation as well as the
city. Others, too, have shared in making Portland, but space forbids even
the mention of their names.
With almost a hundred thousand inhabitants, drawn from all parts of the
world, and with a "Chinatown" in its midst, the social character of
Portland has, of course, changed since 1868. And yet Judge Deady's
characterization given then would fairly hold good to-day. This means, of
course, that Portland is eminently conservative, with the advantages and
disadvantages of conservatism.
In externals, Portland is an attractive city, with the trees in its streets
and the lawns about its houses and its wonderful roses. Its early
architecture is poor, but many of the recent buildings, municipal,
ecclesiastical, commercial, domestic, and general, are not only large and
imposing, but good. The city is beautifully situated, with the rivers at
its feet and the wooded hills behind it, and in the distance the snow
mountains, of which the finest and the favorite is Hood. Portland sits
to-day mistress of the North Pacific, and with historic and prophetic
reasons for expecting to be the metropolis of the whole Pacific coast. If
the sceptre slips from her, it will be only because she lacks the faith,
the courage, and the enterprise to enter into her inheritance.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
SAN FRANCISCO
BY THE WEST GATE OF THE WORLD
"City of gold and destiny"
* * * * *
"With high face held to the ultimate sea."
BY EDWIN MARKHAM
If Xenophon had journeyed westward from Athens, pressing beyond the amber
caverns of the Baltic, beyond the tin mines of Thule, out past the Gates
of Hercules, exactly west, across an ocean and a continent, the next
_thalatta_ of his men would have saluted the Pacific at the Golden Gate
from the low, shifting sand-hills of the unrisen San Francisco. For the
violet-veiled city of Athene and the gray-draped city of St. Francis are in
one line of latitude.
San Francisco crowns the extremity of a long, rugged peninsula, a little
north of the centre of California,
"The land that has the tiger's length,
The tawny tiger's length of arm,"
the land that stretches from pine to palm,
"Haunch in the cloud-rack, paw in the purring sea."
The one break in the mountain wall of the California Coast Range is the
Golden Gate, the watery pass that leads from San Francisco to the Pacific.
Spurs and peaks and cross ridges of this mountain chain would at long range
seem to encompass the city round about; but, on nearer view, the edging
waters on three sides make her distinctly a city of the sea.
Looking from the bay, past the fortified islands of the city, one may see
San Francisco to the west, rising in airy beauty on clustered gray hills.
At night the city hangs against the horizon like a lower sky, pulsing with
starry lamps. By day it stretches in profile long and undulating, with
spires and domes climbing up the steeps from a shore lined with the
shipping of every nation--felucca, ironclad, merchantman, junk, together
with bevies of tiny busybody craft, all of them circled and followed by
slow-swinging gulls.
[Illustration VIEW NORTHWEST FROM SPRECKELS' BUILDING.]