indicated; five days later the survey of the city plat was begun under the
direction of Orson Pratt. All the plans were on a scale of unlimited
liberality. The streets, each eight rods in width, were made to cross at
right angles, dividing the city into rectangular blocks, each of ten acres.
The choicest block in point of situation was designated as the site of the
prospective temple; and is now occupied by the world-famed Temple, the
Tabernacle, and the less pretentious Assembly Hall. The original survey was
made to include a hundred and thirty-five of these ten-acre blocks; several
were chosen for public squares and parks; the remainder were to be divided
into city lots for the accommodation of the thousands soon to come.
Religious devotion, the inspiring cause of this seemingly reckless scheme
of colonization, demanded facilities for public worship; and, lacking
chapel, synagogue, or temple, the colonists provided a leafy tabernacle.
Trees were hauled from the mountains, and of these a bowery was
constructed, which for a time was church, court-house, and capitol.
Having learned by experience that Indian attacks were to be expected, the
settlers congregated on a single ten-acre block, which they enclosed by
erecting their huts of logs and adobe along the eastern border. Each hut
opened inward toward the centre of the square and was provided with a
loophole on the outer side; the space between the houses and the sides of
the block not occupied by habitations was protected by a continuous wall of
adobe. With the increase of population additions were made to the fort; but
as soon as the ruddy aborigines learned that the white invaders were their
friends, the fort was abandoned, and the settlers distributed themselves
over the city area.
At the time of its first settlement Utah was a part of the Mexican domain;
nevertheless, the "Mormon" colonists, confident as to the destiny of their
nation, patriotically raised the Stars and Stripes and took possession of
the region in the name of the United States. A prominent hill, part of the
Wasatch spur which bounds the present city on the northeast like a fortress
wall, was chosen as the flag site; and this elevation is to-day known as
Ensign Peak. From its summit, now surmounted by an enduring flag-staff of
steel, the banner of freedom is thrown to the mountain breezes on public
holidays and other occasions of patriotic celebration.
More colonists arrived in parties great and small; and by the spring of
1848 approximately seventeen hundred souls were encamped in the valley,
more than four hundred dwellings had been erected within the confines of
the old fort, and about five thousand acres of land had been brought under
cultivation. In May and June, the settlers were arrayed in battle order,
not against human foes but to fight the dreaded insect scourge, the Rocky
Mountain crickets, which in countless hordes descended from the mountains
and invaded the fields and gardens. Every member of the little community,
man, woman, or child, was called into action but to little purpose. When
the people had been reduced to despair they were saved by what they
devoutly believed to be a special and miraculous interposition of
Providence. There suddenly appeared on the western horizon a tremulous
cloud which grew in magnitude as it rapidly approached, until at last it
was seen to be the vanguard of an advancing army of gulls. Down swooped the
white-winged deliverers, devouring the crickets with incredible voracity
until but few were left alive. Since that day the gulls have been sacred in
Utah. Every spring they come to follow the plough as it turns the soil for
the season's seed, and so confident are they of their safety that they may
be approached almost within arm's length. Added to the ruin wrought by the
crickets was a further deprivation, due to drought and frosts. The harvest
of 1848 was little better than a failure, and the succeeding winter and
spring were seasons of extreme destitution. The people were brought to the
dire necessity of gathering the wild weeds of the desert and even of
boiling the raw hides in their camps for sustenance. The bulbous roots of
the sego lily--now the banner-flower of the State--were dug for food; but
the pangs of hunger were an experience from which none escaped. However,
the following season brought a more abundant return from the soil and the
prospects of the colony brightened.
In February, 1848, the treaty of Guadaloupe Hidalgo secured by cession from
Mexico to the United States the region now embraced by Arizona, New Mexico,
Utah, Nevada, and California. The great republic reached the Pacific, and
Salt Lake City became an integral part of the United States. Up to this
time, and, indeed, for a year thereafter, the governmental affairs of the
new community were administered almost wholly by the Church authorities.
In February, 1849, the city was divided into nineteen ecclesiastical wards,
over each of which a "bishopric" presided, consisting of a bishop and his
two counsellors, who combined with their purely churchly function the
duties of magistrates and civil officers. They regulated the levying and
disbursing of taxes, the construction of roads and bridges, and the
like.[16]
[Illustration JEDEDIAH M. GRANT, FIRST MAYOR OF SALT LAKE CITY.]
In the early months of 1849 steps were taken toward the establishment of a
State government from which the city might hope to derive corporate powers.
It was proposed that the State of which Salt Lake City was destined to be
the capital be called Deseret--a name occurring in the records of the
ancient inhabitants of the continent, as set forth in the Book of Mormon,
and meaning "the honey bee." The hive, expressive of the characteristic
industry and thrift of the people, was chosen as the symbol and seal of the
prospective State. Pending action by the national Congress, the
"Provisional Government of the State of Deseret" was established, and its
officers were duly elected. The General Assembly of the State of Deseret,
in January, 1851, chartered "Great Salt Lake City" and appointed its first
Mayor, Jedediah M. Grant, and other municipal officers. The people were not
yet informed that four months before, September 9, 1850, the Congress of
the United States had refused their petition for statehood and had created
the Territory of Utah. The acts of the provisional government were
subsequently confirmed by the first territorial Legislature, and the city's
charter was thus legalized.
[Illustration EAGLE GATE.]
Each passing year added to the attractiveness of the new capital. An
orchard had been planted on every unoccupied lot, shade trees were placed
along the outer borders of the sidewalks, and to nourish these a small
stream was made to flow down either side of every street. The city became
the acknowledged business centre of the inter-mountain region. Situated on
the road to the gold regions, when the gold fever was at its height, travel
was heavy, and the settlers found a ready market for anything they could
produce from the soil. Gold-seekers hastening westward and successful
miners returning eastward halted at this oasis to replenish their supplies,
and left their wealth in lavish abundance to enrich the people of the
desert, who, however, had little need of gold in their local trade, and
valued it only for the implements of husbandry and building it would buy in
the East. A strange spectacle was presented of a city destitute of many
necessaries and of most of the luxuries of life, yet rich to affluence in
gold, which was sent back to "the States" by the bucketful.
Merchandise was brought in by fleets of "prairie schooners," and the
contents of each of these wheeled boats of mountain and plain were eagerly
bought up. There was danger of class distinctions arising, of the few who
had most gold to spare buying more than their share, and so becoming rich
at the expense of their fellows. Acting on the counsel of their President,
the people adopted rules to secure an equable distribution of imported
goods. Later the settlers established their merchandise business on a plan
of co-operation, and Zion's Co-operative Mercantile Institution began its
phenomenally successful career. The chief establishment of this system is
still operating, with headquarters in Salt Lake City, and its annual sales,
officially attested, average over four million dollars.
The city's very existence was threatened in 1857. A detachment of the
United States army numbering over two thousand men was ordered to Utah by
President Buchanan for the purpose of suppressing an alleged insurrection,
which, it was reported, had culminated in the destruction of the court
records and the driving of the federal judge, Drummond, from his bench.
When news of the libellous charges against the people reached Utah, the
clerk of Judge Drummond's own court issued a full denial under official
seal. But the mischievous misrepresentation had already produced its effect
at the nation's capital, and the army was on the march.
[Illustration BRIGHAM YOUNG MONUMENT.]
Mail contractors operating between the Missouri River and Salt Lake City
brought word of the approaching soldiery, and reported threats of both
officers and men as to the summary way in which they would dispose of the
people when once they found themselves within the "City of the Saints." The
Latter-day Saints understood the intensity of the public sentiment against
them; they felt, too, the injustice of the libel. They believed that the
army's invasion of their city and Territory meant their massacre. Brigham
Young was still Governor of Utah, and the territorial militia was subject
to his command. He promptly proclaimed martial law throughout the
Territory, and forbade any armed forces to enter its confines. Echo Cañon,
the easiest avenue of approach, was fortified. In its defiles an army might
well be stopped by a few. The people had been roused to desperation. Force
was to be met with force.
[Illustration MAIN STREET IN 1861.]
The army wintered at Fort Bridger, Wyoming, amid severe vicissitudes. In
the meantime a full report of the situation had been made by Governor Young
to the President of the United States. President Buchanan tacitly admitted
his rashness, but to recall the troops at that juncture would be to openly
confess the blunder. A peace commissioner, in the person of Colonel Thomas
B. Kane, was dispatched to Salt Lake City, and finally the President's
appointees were conducted through the "Mormon" lines by "Mormon" militia,
and were duly inducted into office. Then it was demonstrated that the court
records were intact, and the people at peace. The army followed later,
under pledge that its ranks be not broken within the city limits and that
its camp be not within forty miles of the capital. And when at last the
soldiers threaded the streets, a strange sight met their view. Salt Lake
City was deserted, except for a few men who stood with lighted torches in
hand ready to fire the heaps of combustibles that had been piled in every
house. For the people, loth to trust too implicitly in the unwilling
promises of officers smarting under the consciousness of defeat, had
abandoned their homes, with the solemn determination that if the invaders
made a single attempt at plunder they should find naught but ashes for
their loot.
But the promises were kept in good faith. The army established its
headquarters at Camp Floyd, forty miles southwest from the city. There the
soldiers remained until summoned back, at the outbreak of the Civil War.
During their two years' encampment in Utah, the soldiers were fed by the
people. Everything in the nature of food was eagerly bought up at an
unusual price, and thus the nation's gold found its way into the hands of
the citizens. Then, so great was the hurry of the army's departure, so
urgent the need of speedy travel, that all their belongings outside of
actual necessities were sold for a trifle or given away. The reason why the
people regard the coming of "Buchanan's army" as a blessing to their city
is evident.
[Illustration HOUSE BUILT IN 1847 WITHIN THE OLD FORT.]
In 1861 the Overland Telegraph Line, which had been approaching the city
from both east and west, was completed, and Salt Lake City was relieved of
some of the disadvantages of its desert isolation. Eight years later the
Union Pacific and the Central Pacific railways reached Utah, and from that
time to the present the development of both city and State has been of
phenomenal rapidity.
From the earliest period of its existence Salt Lake City has been strong
and untiring in its efforts to secure adequate educational facilities. In
October, 1847, only three months after the pioneer entry, a school was
opened within the walls of the Old Fort. The schoolhouse was a tent, and
for seats and desks hewn slabs and sections of logs were brought into
service. Other schools followed and the people thus early voiced their
desire for secondary and higher instruction. In February, 1850, when the
city was less than three years old, "The University of the State of
Deseret" with its seat at "Great Salt Lake City" was incorporated by the
legislative assembly of the provisional government. In November of that
year the "University" began its work in the field of secondary instruction
under the name of "The Parent School." As suggested by this title branch
schools were conducted in the smaller settlements. The institution thus
grandly projected in the face of seemingly insurmountable obstacles has
grown with the commonwealth, and to-day, under the name of the University
of Utah, compares favorably with other State colleges of the West. The
present public-school system is the pride of the city. Stately school
buildings, modern and efficient, and the best equipment procurable are
provided; and the schools are free.
[Illustration MORMON TEMPLE.]
And so the city has grown, gathering strength with its years, but in
surprising proportion. It has ever been quick to adopt the conveniences of
advancing civilization; for there was little of the old to sweep away. Its
street-cars are driven by the power of the mountain cataract thirty-five
miles away. Its streets, public buildings, and dwellings are lighted by
the same mysterious force, and its factories and industrial establishments
are electrically operated. In few cities indeed is the electric energy more
generally utilized.
Among its notable structures a few demand special mention. First in popular
interest, perhaps first also in historic significance, is the great
"Mormon" Temple, constructed throughout of solid granite from the eruptive
exposures of the Wasatch. The corner-stone was laid April 6, 1853, and the
completed Temple was dedicated April 6, 1893. During the four decades
occupied in the work over three and a half millions of dollars were
expended on the structure. Let it be remembered that the building was
begun amid most meagre facilities for such an undertaking--when the
services of several yoke of oxen were required for the bringing of a single
block of granite from the famed Cottonwood Cañon a score of miles south of
the city. Of the four temples already erected in the vales of Utah, the one
at Salt Lake City was the first to be commenced and the last to be
finished.
[Illustration MORMON TABERNACLE.]
The domed roof of the Tabernacle has attracted the attention of every one
who has seen even a picture of the city. In some of its architectural
features the building is unique. It covers an area of 250 x 180 feet and
has a seating capacity of eight thousand. The colossal roof-arch springs
from wall to wall without a supporting pillar. Within is the monster organ,
which for size and scope is approached by few instruments in the world. It
was constructed in early days from native material by Utah artisans, and
has been regarded as a marvel of mechanical and artistic achievement.
The story of Salt Lake City is really a chapter of "Mormon" history. To-day
its population would probably show a majority of non-Mormons, but the
Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints is the dominant sect in city
and State. Numerous other churches have established themselves; many of
them have reared imposing sanctuaries and are active in the promulgation of
their doctrines.
[Illustration CITY AND COUNTY BUILDING, SALT LAKE CITY.]
Non-Mormon citizens have been as ready and earnest in their efforts to
build up and sustain the city of their choice as have their Latter-day
Saint fellows; and the present beauty, strength, and vitality of the
inter-mountain metropolis are largely due to non-Mormon, or "Gentile,"
enterprise and energy. The "Gentiles" have ever been the more prominent in
mining undertakings, and the large and paying mines of to-day are mostly
theirs. Salt Lake City does not belong to the "Mormons"; it is the
possession of its citizens without regard to religious profession or
political preference.
[Illustration LION AND BEE-HIVE HOUSES.]
Since man and nature combined their energies in this once desert spot, the
favored situation, the many natural advantages have yearly grown more
apparent. Located at the very base of the Wasatch, bounded in part by a
spur of this majestic range, the city possesses a wealth of mountain
scenery beyond description. The valley floor is part of the bed of an
inland sea of Quaternary age; and the benches and hills constituting the
choicest residence portions are the terraces of this ancient lake, or the
deltas of the prehistoric streams whose mouths were at the present cañon
openings. Capitol Hill and the Northeast Bench are parts of the great delta
constructed by City Creek in Lake Bonneville. Of this Pleistocene water
body, approximately equal to Lake Huron in extent, the present Salt Lake,
in spite of its common appellation "great," is but a diminutive fragment.
The present population as attested by the recent census returns is 53,531;
though the current city directory, compiled immediately after the census
enumeration, gives names and addresses of nearly seventy thousand resident
inhabitants. The city's growing importance as a manufacturing, commercial,
railroad, and mining centre is generally recognized: while its enterprise,
progressiveness, and wealth are of national repute. But beyond all such it
is to be characterized as a city of homes. From cottage to mansion its
residences are very generally owned by their tenants. Its citizens are, for
the most part, permanent residents and the city is theirs. Its increase has
been that of development rather than of growth; the distinction is a vital
one, for it characterizes the expansion of the living organism as against
mere accretion of substance.
With such a development in the course of less than five and a half decades,
what shall be its condition and status when its years have linked
themselves into centuries?
[Illustration]
FOOTNOTE:
[16] Some secular officials, such as marshals and other peace officers, had
been chosen, but these were generally nominated by the Church leaders and
elected or "sustained" by vote of the people in Church gatherings. The
secular power exercised by the Church officials was expressly delegated to
them by vote of the people.
[Illustration]
SPOKANE
THE CITY OF THE INLAND EMPIRE
By HAROLD BOLCE
Sculptors have not yet chiselled the glory of the founders of Spokane, for
most of the pioneers of that city, heedless of remote epitaphs, still hurry
over its now "populous pavements," multiplying their wealth. Boys born in
the first year of the city's incorporation have not yet reached the age of
suffrage. Less than thirty years ago the settlement began with three
citizens and a sawmill. It has developed into a brick and granite city of
nearly fifty thousand.
A century ago a few brave men blazed perilous trails through the wilderness
of the far Northwest but their picturesque adventures gave no hint of the
city of wealth, industry, and architectural beauty that was to rise on both
banks of the Spokane cataract. Though Jefferson's renowned secretary,
Meriwether Lewis, and his comrade Clark, brother of George Rogers Clark,
heralded the day when the Oregon and its affluents should hear sounds more
significant than their own dashings, their pilgrimage had become as dim as
a tradition to the men of the present generation who first floated Coeur
d'Alene tamarack and cedar down the swift Spokane to their sawmill at the
falls.
On the Spokane River not far from its confluence with the Columbia the
Northwest Fur Company built a post more than ninety years ago, and thence
reckless _voyageurs_ found their way through the solitudes, pausing to
trade at the villages of the Spokanes, the Flatheads, the Umatillas, the
Walla Wallas, the Nez Percés, and others, taking red women cheerfully in
marriage and as cheerfully deserting them when occasion called. In this
remote frontier, beyond the utmost reach of ethics or law, in a region with
a cloud upon its national title, the pioneers fulfilled their semi-savage
destiny. Nelson Durham, a writer of Spokane, has patriotically designated
the Spokane Plains as the site of the annual horse-racing and saturnalia of
these skin-clad trappers and traders, but they left no landmarks and the
noise of their revelry had long since died away when the first Anglo-Saxon,
lured by the roar of the falls, came to harness those tumultuous waters to
his wheel.
[Illustration THE COUNTY COURT HOUSE, SPOKANE.]
There is a tradition that the Spokane Indians shunned this now famed
succession of wild cascades, for in the foaming maelstrom at the foot of
the falls dwelt a malign goddess, her long hair streaming in the cataract,
her shimmering figure half revealed in the enveloping mists of spray. While
the waters danced about her she sang merrily and the sound of her singing
was like the warbling of a thousand birds. With her outstretched arms she
lured Indian fishermen and devoured them. Her flowing hair was a trammel
that enmeshed her victims. None had ever returned. Shaman after shaman,
under his totem pole, had unavailingly invoked his tomañowash incantations
to destroy her power. Then Speelyai or Coyote, the great Indian god,
transforming himself into a feather, floated over the falls and was
speedily engulfed by the evil goddess. Assuming the form of a strong
warrior he began his campaign. Around him were the wrecks of skin and bark
canoes, the forms of unnumbered members of his tribes, and a bedraggled
eagle which proved to be Whaiama, god of the upper air. With a stone axe
Speelyai hewed his way through the monster's side and Whaiama bore the
resurrected company to the high banks of the Spokane River. Now Speelyai
pronounced a curse upon his groaning enemy. Her career as a destroyer was
at an end. Henceforth she might entice some helpless wanderers from distant
tribes, but the chosen ones she should destroy no more. And the god
prophesied in conclusion that a better race would come some day, a strange
people, whom she could not conquer, and who would bind and enslave her
forever.