JOURNEY FROM KANO TO THE CAMP OF BELLO, AND FROM THENCE TO SOCCATOO.
On entering Kano, I immediately bent my way to the house of my former
agent, Hadje Hat Salah Byoot; but I soon saw that both he and the
Arabs that were present would rather I had come from the eastward:
they were all in fact in low spirits about the war with Bornou,
which had shut them out, for some time past, from all communication
with Fezzan or Tripoli. The caravan for these countries had left Kano
twenty days ago for Kashna, to try whether they could not succeed to
get home by way of the Tuaric desert. This has deprived me of the
opportunity of sending home my journals and letters; but it would
have been a great risk, as they have to go through the capital of
the son of the former sultan of Kashna, who is in rebellion against
the Fellatas; and the Tuarics have not allowed a caravan to pass,
except those of the merchants of Ghadamis, for these many years past;
and on these they levy a contribution.
Hadje Hat Salah Byoot, my former and present agent, is the richest
man in Kano, an Arab of the tribe of Majabra, inhabiting the country
to the east of Augela, adjoining it. They, like the Augela people,
are great merchants. He was formerly the agent and merchant of the
hereditary governors of Fezzan; he was the cause of their being
removed and dispersed by the bashaw of Tripoli, who would still have
continued the family in the government, if they had not prevented
his people of Tripoli, and the other towns on the sea-coast, from
trading to the interior. They even prevented, all in their power,
the bashaw’s sending Mohamed El Mukni with presents and a letter to
the king of Waday; they went so far as to endeavour to stimulate the
chiefs of the Tibbo tribes to cut them off, offering them a reward and
protection if they would do so. Mukni and his people were accordingly
attacked on their return, but by their bravery beat the Tibbos in
every attack. When they found they could not destroy them in this
manner, they bribed the guides, who led them astray in the desert,
where all their slaves, and most of their camels, perished; and Mukni
arrived at Tripoli with the remains of the merchants, who were mostly
all ruined. A few years after this, the bashaw sent another mission
under Mukni, with presents to the sultan of Bornou, and was again
accompanied by a number of merchants from the sea-coast. The governor
or sultan of Fezzan did not try by open force this time to oppose
Mukni’s passing Mourzuk, but sent again to the Tibbo chiefs and
Hadje Salah, to Bornou, to prejudice the sultan against Mukni; but all
without effect. Some of the Tibbo chiefs were now friends with Mukni,
and gave him the letters the governor of Fezzan had sent him. The
sultan of Bornou was much pleased with the bashaw’s present, and
gave every encouragement to the people of Tripoli to come and trade
to the interior, and sent a large present of slaves, ivory, &c. to
Mukni for the bashaw, who had carried him two small field-pieces,
those now in possession of the sheikh; but the Fellatas invaded and
took the capital, and all the presents were lost. Notwithstanding
this, on Mukni’s return to Tripoli empty-handed, he was followed
by Hadje Salah, who did all he could to prevent the people of Waday
from serving him, by selling him the provisions necessary for him
and his people in crossing the desert. He first got the people
of Kanem to attack the Tripoli caravan; the people of the caravan
of Fezzan not rendering them any assistance, and always encamping
out of gunshot distance from them. Next they were attacked in the
Tibbo country, where the people of the Fezzan caravan assisted the
Tibbos against them; but Mukni again overcame them, and arrived at
Mourzouk. Here the gates were shut against him, and every person
was forbid to provide him or his people with provisions, or hold
any communication with him, on pain of death. Notwithstanding all
these orders, they were supplied by their friends inside the town,
principally the cadi, who used to send them out provisions on asses,
as if laden with manure. After this, it was eighteen months before
the bashaw would grant Mukni a force to depose the governor of Fezzan.
Sunday, 20th.—This morning the whole city was thrown into
considerable alarm by a merchant from Ghadamis being found strangled
in his bed. His female slaves were suspected of being guilty of
the murder, as two or three similar cases had happened before. The
governor of Kano sent to Hadje Salah, as chief of the Arabs, to
know what he would have done on the occasion; whether the slaves
should be sold out of the country, or whether they should be put
to death. It had been customary, in cases of this kind, to send
the perpetrators of similar crimes to the sea-coast, to be sold
to the slave-dealers. Hadje Salah and the principal Arabs came
to my house before they went to the governor, to ask my advice on
the occasion, and to know what we should do if such a thing were to
happen in England. I told them, that all the slaves would be confined
separately, and strictly examined, and that if the fact was proved,
all those concerned would be hanged—not one would escape. They said
that was the proper way, and that no man would be safe in Kano if
they were to escape. I took this opportunity of asking them how many
slaves there were in Kano in proportion to free men; they said, about
thirty slaves to every free man. I told them they had better keep
a good look out, as, were the men once to know their own strength,
they would soon take the place from their masters. I informed them
in what manner the slaves in St. Domingo had made themselves free;
and pointed out to them the case of the slaves in Yourriba, who had
killed their masters, and now formed a free people there.
Monday, 21st.—I visited the governor, who was very civil and
talkative. He said that the gadado was coming to Kano, but if I
wished to go before he came, I should have a camel to carry Bello’s
present, and two men, as also a messenger; but he added, that it was
very uncomfortable travelling at present, for every day and night the
men and camels were out in the last expedition at Donna, that they
had been exposed to very heavy rains, and that most of the people
and animals were knocked up. I said I was all ready to go, and, if
he had no objection, I would start the day after to-morrow. He said,
well; and sent for a messenger, to whom he gave strict charge to see
me well used and lodged, and safe into the hands of the gadado. I
found two of my barometer tubes broken in the box, by the sudden
transition from heat to cold in a tornado.
Tuesday, 22d.—Found I had made a mistake in the month of May,
having given it only thirty days instead of thirty-one.
Wednesday, 23d.—Rain and lightning all day, so that I could not
start in the afternoon. I waited on the governor and took leave.
Thursday, 24th.—At 9 A.M., it having rained all the morning, I had
the camels loaded, and took leave of my servants, whom I left, with
much regret, in a land where they were perfect strangers. Richard
was still unwell with dysentery. I left with him instructions how
to proceed home in the event of my death, and also strict orders
to Hadje Salah to afford him and Pascoe every assistance, even the
same he would have given to me, and that he would be well paid by the
consul at Tripoli. I also desired him to allow Richard one thousand
cowries, to keep the house and horse; my poor little Boussa mare
having died a few days before. I had been obliged to draw a bill
for five hundred Spanish dollars in favour of Hamada ben Medoon,
for which I had to take a horse at more than double its price,
and only got 1500 cowries for each dollar—just one half,—such
is the rate of the country. This money I left in the hands of Hadje
Salah for the use of my servants, which amounted to 250,000 cowries
(not 100 dollars), the price of the horse being 500,000 cowries. I
left them with much regret, as I was in very bad health myself. I
was accompanied as far as the horse gate (Coffin Dalkie) by Hadje
Salah, Shereef Ali, a Tunis merchant, Hamada ben Medoon, and all the
principal Arabs, as they thought that I should bring about a peace
between the sheik of Bornou and Bello.
After leaving the walls of Kano the country was well cultivated on
every side, and planted with Indian corn, millet, doura, potatoes,
indigo, and cotton; but the road was very disagreeable, all the
hollows being full of water. At 11.40 came to a stream of running
water, at this season at least a quarter of a mile broad. At 12.30
got all the people, and baggage, and the camels, across. I was
wet up to my seat in the saddle, and once or twice the horse was
swimming. Started again, and at four halted at the walled town
of Toffa, the walls of which, since the death of Duntungwa, the
rebellious governor of Dumburta, have been allowed to go to decay;
and unless they are soon repaired and built up, the town will,
in a year or two, be without walls. I was provided with a house,
and had even milk and pudding—not like our puddings in Britain,
but Indian corn-flour boiled in an earthen pot, and stirred with
a large stick, without salt or fat, and, when thick enough, it is
made up into pieces of about two pounds each, and eaten with milk,
if it can be got; if not, with a sauce made of the dried leaves of
a certain plant and a little butter. It is the general food for the
second meal in all parts between the Quorra and Bornou, and sometimes
also in the latter place, if they have millet.
They are now gathering in the indigo, which they cut about two or
three inches above the ground, bringing what they cut off home, and
strip off the leaves, which are laid in a circular heap, and left
to rot or ferment until the end of the rains, when it is beaten in
the troughs or wooden mortars, and allowed to remain until dry. In
other places they beat it in the troughs as soon as cut, and let it
remain until dry, when what they do not want for use is carried to
Kano and sold.
The houses in Toffa are few, and all the spare places in the town
are planted with millet and doura. The inhabitants do not amount to
more than two thousand. During the night we had thunder, lightning,
and rain.
Friday, 25th.—Morning clear and fair; gave the head man ten gora
nuts, and my landlord ten, and started at 7.10 A.M. The country
cultivated only in parts; saw several large herds of very fine cattle
belonging to the Fellatas. They follow the cry of the herdsman, which
is _ah hea hay!_ in a soft but shrill cry, and the cattle, lowing,
follow the sound. At ten passed a walled town called Kiawa; and at
noon another walled town called Gagai. At this last town the land was
all in cultivation. Formerly, when Duntungwa was living, they durst
not stir out of their towns; now he is dead, and his son submitted
to Bello, every one tries who can plant the most. At 2 P.M. arrived
and halted at a walled town called Gongodi, where I was provided with
a house. The walls of this town are also falling to pieces. All the
spare places were planted with millet and doura. A plentiful market
was holden outside of the town. In the shady tree close to the house
in which I lived were birds, a little larger than our sparrows,
with a jet-black head, and a bright yellow in the neck, breast,
belly, and under the wings, and the back a dusky green; chirped
just like the sparrow: hundreds were building their nests in this
and the other trees, which they do at the extreme branches or twigs,
and are sown together with leaves; the nests are platted with grass,
and have their entrance at the bottom. Both male and female work at
the nest, and they lay about six or seven eggs. During this season
they are very busy, and keep up a constant chirruping and flutter
under their nests and about the trees.
Saturday, 26th.—Last evening I had a long and severe fit of the
ague, which continued on me until daylight. In the morning it came
on to rain, thunder, and lighten, which continued until near noon,
when it cleared up. I had the camels loaded, giving the head man of
the town twenty-seven gora nuts, as he had sent me a young sheep,
plenty of milk, and corn for my horse. Left Gongodi; the path winding
through plantations of millet, doura, cotton, and indigo here and
there dispersed in the woods. Crossed a small river, and several
streams whose courses were to the eastward. The soil a red clay mixed
with sand, and only scraps of rock, of clay ironstone, and large
blocks of granite. The water from the leaves of the trees made us all
wet, and one time I had nearly lost my eye by the branch of a tree
while looking at my compass; as it was, I got my face badly torn. At
2.30 P.M. it came on to rain, and being close to the town of Koki,
I halted for the night. The walls of this town are also falling to
decay; but I observe with pleasure that as the walls have fallen the
houses appear to have increased. I was provided with as good a house
as the place afforded, and was plentifully supplied with provisions.
Sunday, 27th.—Clear morning, with light flying clouds. At 6.30
A.M. left Koki. I gave the head man thirty gora nuts, as he had
given me a plentiful supply of milk, and millet for my horse and
camel. The road was excessively wet, being nearly every step midleg
deep, and very slippery. The decayed ant-hills not being seen, the
camels several times sunk up to their bellies, when they had to be
unloaded. I constantly rode behind them, both for the safety of myself
and horse, as also to render that assistance and encouragement to
my servants which was necessary, who certainly suffered much, having
to wade by the side of the camels the whole way. Thank God! not one
fell sick, or uttered the least complaint. I sent the Kano messenger
on a-head, as I heard the gadado was on his way to Kano, and only a
day or two distant from me, to request he would detain the governor
of Adamowa until my arrival, as that person had only left Kano a few
days before me with his retinue; and, in the event of my joining him,
I should not have any occasion to wait at the town of Torri for an
escort to conduct me through the woods of Goudami. At 11.30 passed the
town of Duncamie; after which the roads were the worst I have ever
seen, or rather, in fact, there were no roads at all. Every where
the surface was a swamp, the men sometimes up to their middles in
water for half an hour at a time; the path leading through fields
of millet and doura. Thus the road continued until 5.30, when it
came on to rain, thunder, and lighten. My servants stripped to the
buff, and put their shirts under the hides that covered the baggage,
to preserve them dry until they halted. I got wet to the skin, yet
had a burning thirst—at times hardly able to sit on horseback,
until relieved by vomiting. I would gladly have lain down any where,
but there was not a spot clear of water. In this condition myself,
my men, and animals continued until 6.30 P.M. when I arrived,
and halted at the town of Jaza, in the province of Kashna, where
I lay down by a fire in the house of the head man of the town,
after being assisted off my horse. At no time am I possessed of a
sweet and passive temper, and when the ague is coming on me it is a
little worse. The head man made a great many difficulties; I gave it
to him in all the Houssa language I possessed; but it was all lost on
him. These Kashna bears are rude, and though they pride themselves on
being the most polite and the best in Houssa, calling all the rest
infidels. He, to make up the peace, left me in possession of the
house, and ordered his servants to get food for my people, horse,
and camels. I suffered severely during the night with ague and cramp.
Monday, 28th.—Morning clear. As I did not intend starting early,
on account of last night’s illness and the people getting the wet
things dry, at ten the governor of Kano’s messenger arrived, whom
I had sent to the Gadado, with a request from him that I would stop
for the day and he would meet me, as he intended halting at Jaza. At
11 A.M. the Gadado arrived, with a numerous train of attendants
on horseback and on foot. The horsemen armed with spears, swords,
and shields; the foot with swords, bows, and arrows. The women were
behind; some riding on horseback a-straddle, some on camels, others,
less fortunate, were walking, and carrying the gourds and kitchen
utensils. As he passed my house I went out to see him: he had four
long trumpets and a pipe, like the pipe of a bagpipe, and two drums
before him. When he came up he dismounted, and taking me by the
hand, we walked, hand in hand, to the house prepared for him. He
inquired kindly after my health, and how I had found my friends in
England; said Bello had received my letter from Koolfu, in Nyffé,
and had sent a messenger there to bring me up: he said he had never
received my letter from Bornou appointing where his messengers were
to meet me on the coast, neither had he received the one sent from
Katagum. The Gadado advised me to return to Kano with him, as the
roads were so very bad ahead; that to such a small party as mine
it would be impossible to get through; that he would have sent to
the governor of Adamowa, but he was already five days’ journey
ahead of me, and no messenger could overtake him before he got to
Soccatoo; that it would be better both for my health and comfort to
go and return with him after the rains, and that I should want for
nothing. I said I would take his advice, as, from my own ill health
and the badness of the roads, I saw we should soon be all knocked up,
both man and beast. I had a plentiful supply of every thing.
Wednesday, Oct. 11th.—Last night my horse died, and this morning
I lost my pocket journal and remark book[1], spectacles, inkhorn,
and pens, &c., which my servant had laid on the saddle outside the
door of my hut, ready for me when I came out. The person in whose
house I had lodged while at Baebaegie I had permitted to remain in
the same enclosure; and my servant at once accused him and his men
of the theft. I was desirous of searching them, but they made off
the moment that the theft was discovered.
At 7 A.M. I proceeded on my journey, passed through a large
village, and several times crossed the river which I have frequently
before mentioned as coming from the granite hills, to the south
of Kashna;—it here winds beautifully, with steep and high-wooded
banks, sometimes composed of rock, and sometimes a mixture of clay
and rock. My camels I could hardly get along, as they were nearly
worn out with sores and fatigue. The country around Zurmie is well
cultivated, and planted with millet, Indian corn, and dourra. The
villages are numerous, the soil a light red clay, mixed with small
crumbling rocks scattered over the surface, which is generally
covered with a thin layer of sand.
The army has now increased to a large size, the forces of Zurmie and
Jaroba having joined, the roads on every side crowded with horse
and foot, camels, bullocks, and asses, all striving who shall get
foremost. Some of the people of Zurmie are entirely naked, save
only tanned sheep skin bound round the loins, cut into tassels, and
ornamented with cowries, their woolly hair cut in parts or shaved,
the rest plaited and formed into crests, circles, &c. Some have it
drawn out, and hanging in shaggy ringlets, which gives them a wild
and savage appearance.
About noon, arrived and halted at Quarrie, and immediately waited on
the Gadado, to inform him of the robbery, and by whom I had every
reason to suspect it was committed. He promised to send off to the
governor of Kano, and to desire him to have the people of Baebaegie
searched; and there was little doubt but that I would have my books
restored.
By the assistance of one of the Gadado’s principal officers and a
near relation, I hired a bullock to carry my baggage to Soccatoo for
5000 cowries; as, after the load had been removed from the back of
the camel that was worn out, the poor creature was unable to rise, and
was in consequence killed, and the carcass distributed among the poor.
Thursday, 12th.—Morning clear. Having waited in vain for the stolen
property until mid-day, I then started, and found that the bullock
which had been hired for me was miserably thin, and had the itch
very bad; and that if offered for sale, it would not have brought
me more than 3 or 4000 cowries.
After leaving Quarrie, the road lay through plantations of millet
and dourra. Passed through several villages and one walled town,
also called Quarrie; crossed the river Foutchir, at a ford about
four feet deep. The river was upwards of one hundred yards broad,
and full of water, with a current of about two and a half or three
miles an hour; the banks low, sandy, and woody; and here it is
close to its junction with the river Quarrie, which is on our right,
running to the north. We travelled along its banks for an hour; and
after leaving it, the country became a succession of sandy ridges
and swamps, and thick woods, the principal trees of which were the
acacia and a mimosa. Both my bullocks and camel were fairly exhausted;
and I had to wait until these animals had got some rest, and until
the heat of the day was over: the poor camel was unable to move.
At sunset, no assistance arriving from the Gadado, and no messenger
with my lost books, I hired five of the footmen belonging to Zamfra,
to carry the camel’s load for 2000 cowries, as far as the camp;
and the exhausted camel I left to its fate. We had not proceeded far,
however, before a messenger arrived from the Gadado with a camel, when
the loads were taken from the bearers by force, by the Gadado’s
messenger; but I gave them 500 cowries for their assistance, and
they were well pleased, and returned me many thanks. My servants had
carried the greater part of the bullock’s load on their heads all
day; and I could not but admire their patience, as their only food
in the morning was a little ground dourra and water; and of this I
was also obliged to partake.
It was 9 P.M. before we arrived at the camp, which was by the side
of a lake. I sent my present to the Gadado, to carry on his camels,
as all that was now left me was a bullock with the itch, which we
could hardly drive along, with only the tent, my servants carrying
the rest. All that I had to eat was a little ground Indian corn,
boiled with salt and water; and I slept in the open air.
The governors of the several provinces had each a singing or crying
man, in addition to the drums and horses. The one of Zegzeg was the
most disgusting, being a large black man, mounted on horseback,
with an unshaven head, roaring out like a person in great agony,
and every now and then screaming out as loud as he could bawl, and
calling me a Kaffir, threatening to eat me. In the morning, at an
early hour, I left our place of encampment; and ascending a gravelly
ridge, I had an extensive view to the west and south-west, over the
extensive plains and swamps of Gondamie. The soil on the ridge was
a red clay and gravel, the trees low and stunted. At noon, halted
for the bullock to rest; and at 1 P.M. got him to move on again. At
5 P.M. halted on the borders of a large lake, which is formed by
the rivers Zurmie and Zarrie—or, more properly speaking, a chain
of lakes and swamps, extending through all, or the greater part of,
the plains of Gondamie, approaching nearly to Soccatoo. The borders
of these lakes are the resort of numbers of elephants and other wild
beasts. The appearance at this season, and at the spot where I saw it,
was very beautiful; all the acacia trees were in blossom, some with
white flowers, others with yellow, forming a contrast with the small
dusky leaves, like gold and silver tassels on a cloak of dark green
velvet. I observed some fine large fish leaping in the lake. Some
of the troops were bathing; others watering their horses, bullocks,
camels, and asses: the lake as smooth as glass, and flowing around
the roots of the trees. The sun, on its approach to the horizon,
throws the shadows of the flowery acacias along its surface,
like sheets of burnished gold and silver. The smoking fires on its
banks, the sounding of horns, the beating of their gongs or drums,
the braying of their brass and tin trumpets, the rude huts of grass
or branches of trees rising as if by magic, every where the calls
on the names of Mahomed, Abdo, Mustafa, &c., with the neighing of
horses and the braying of asses, gave animation to the beautiful
scenery of the lake, and its sloping green and woody banks.
The only regulation that appears in these rude feudal armies is,
that they take up their ground according to the situation of the
provinces, east, west, north, or south; but all are otherwise huddled
together, without the least regularity. The man next in rank to the
governor of each province has his tent placed nearest to him, and so
on. I always found out my quarters, which were close to the Gadado,
by inquiring what province the people belonged to.
In the evening, the governor sent me a present of a sheep, and
directly afterwards ordered a musquet to be brought to me, that
I might put a screw to its lock; and on my declaring that I had
no screws, and could not make one, his people went off rather
dissatisfied, and shortly afterwards I missed my powder horn,
which was hanging, with my gun and sword, to the branch of a tree:
the rascals had stolen it.
I now was informed, for the first time, by the Gadado, that before
we went to Soccatoo, we should have to go by Coonia, the capital
of Goobur, near which the sultan Bello was then encamped, with the
forces from Soccatoo; and which place they intended to take before
they returned to Soccatoo. The Kano troops are considered to be the
best, and found to be more orderly than any of the others, but, on
the whole, they are the poorest, and the most inefficient I ever saw,
or could have imagined.
Saturday, 14th.—Morning cool and clear, but a heavy dew had made
me quite wet and chilly. At 5.40 A.M. left our encampment, the path
generally skirting along the banks of the lake. Saw the traces of
elephants every where, and last night the lions were roaring close
to the camp. The heat of the sun from nine in the morning to three
in the afternoon was the most oppressive I had ever felt it; and the
dust raised by the number of men, and animals all pressing forward
as hard as they could, made the air at times quite suffocating;
and now that we are supposed to be surrounded by enemies, it is who
shall be foremost: no halting is allowed. My servant, with a load
on his head, was obliged to lead on the fatigued bullock; and I,
with another servant, managed to drive it along at a quick pace,
but not without incessant beating, which, in a country like ours,
famed for its humanity, would have appeared extreme cruelty; but
a man will do many things here in Africa, that his humanity would
revolt at in our more happy country.
At 4.40 P.M. halted along with the camp, fatigued and low-spirited;
for what with the loss of my horse and camel, and what is still worse
than all, my books and journal, leaving me only some loose paper and
a pencil; when I beheld my servants carrying loads on their heads,
and myself assisting and encouraging them to drive beyond its speed a
poor scabbed and worn out bullock along the road; and when I have no
prospect before me, but to subsist on water and boiled Indian corn,
I cannot but feel a disposition to despond; but I trust things are
now at the worst. Our place of halting was on the banks of a creek
branching from the lake, very low and wet. My consolation is, that
Bello is not at a great distance from us, and has sent to-day to
ask after my health, and how I stood the fatigues of the journey.
Sunday, 15th.—Morning clear. At 5.45 left our encampment, and at
9 arrived at a spot in the swampy wood where a stream of water was
running through it. We had to cross this stream, which was about
twenty yards in width, the banks steep, and water deep, appearing as
if it had been artificially cut for a canal. We crossed it without
accident, though many of the party, with their camels, bullocks,
horses, and baggage, crowding together, were seen sticking in groups
in the boggy swamp. I had not gone many paces on the other side before
my horse sunk to the belly; and as I did not immediately dismount,
thinking to ride him through, I got severely hurt on the pommel of
the saddle, by his plunging. At last I got off, put the saddle on
my head, and got him to a firmer spot under a tree; close to which,
I found my servants endeavouring to drag the bullock out of the
place where he also had sunk. I sat as a guard over my baggage;
but all the exertions of my people could not get the poor ox out,
and I called them off to rest, sending one to the camp for assistance.
In the mean time, some of the people of Zamfra, coming post without
loads or arms, were on their way to assist their friends, who were
sticking in the mud, and to drag the governor’s baggage out of the
swamp. I asked them, in a good-natured way, to lend a hand to help
out my bullock, that was still sticking in the bog. “Well,” say they,
“christian, give us that meat you have got in your dish, and we will
assist you.” “Take it,” said I, “my lads;” and giving them the sheep’s
heart, which was boiled and covered with fat, they divided it among
them; and going to the spot where the unfortunate bullock was, had
him out in an instant.
After letting the bullock breathe a little, we started again, but
had new difficulties to encounter. There was a second stream to
cross, worse than the former: I stripped, and waded over, leading my
horse. On the other side, under a tree, I found a sick Fellata unable
to move, with a burning fever, a native of one of the neighbouring
villages; his friends, he said, had taken away his horse, and left
him there, to the mercy of whoever might choose to assist him.
About mid-day arrived at the court of Bello; the Gadado saw me passing
to my quarters, and sent to request I would halt, and to say I must
go to the sultan, who would excuse every thing about my dress, as he
was so anxious to see me. I accordingly dismounted, and accompanying
the Gadado, we were instantly shown into the residence of Bello,
which was formed of a number of huts, screened off by cloth fixed
to poles, making quite a little village of itself. His reception of
me was most kind and gratifying; he asked after the health of the
king of England, and if we were still at peace, and how I had found
all my friends. He was surprised when I said I had not seen them,
and that I had remained only four months in England. He said, he
had not received either of my letters, the one from Bornou, or that
which had been sent by the way of Ghadamis from Tripoli. He asked me
if I had not experienced a great many difficulties in getting through
Yourriba; said he had heard of me when I was at Eyeo or Katunga, and
that he had sent a messenger to that place, to assist me in getting
through; and had also sent another to Koolfu; but neither of whom,
as I told him, had I seen.
During this interview, it began to rain, thunder, and lighten
very heavily; but as he and the old Gadado remained exposed to it,
I was of course obliged to do so too. He had heard, he observed,
that our camels had died on the road, but said he would send one
of his men with a camel this evening, and who would take care that
all my baggage should arrive safely at Soccatoo; but that it would
be better that every thing should remain with me, until my setting
out for the capital, where I could then deliver to him the present,
and the king of England’s letter, as he intended making an attack
on the capital of Goobur on the morrow. The rain having now ceased,
I was permitted to take leave, and made the best of my way to that
part of the camp assigned to me, which was not far distant from the
sultan’s abode.
During the night, a pretty strict guard was kept, by horsemen in
quilted armour; and all the horses in the camp were saddled at sunset,
and remained so during the night.
Bello’s appearance was very little altered from what it was when I
saw him last, except that he had got a little lustier, and dressed
somewhat better. He was dressed to-day in a white striped muslin
shirt and turban, and the finest tobes that the country produces.
Monday, 16th.—Morning clear, with a heavy dew. At 4 A.M. all was
ready for commencing the war; but it was six before they started;
the intermediate time being spent mostly in praying. I kept close to
the Gadado, as it was his wish I should do so. Our path was through
the plantations of millet and dourra of the enemy. At 8, the sultan
halted under a tree, and gave orders for a camp to be formed, which
was speedily done by the troops, cutting or pulling up the millet
and dourra, and making huts, fences, and screens of the stalks. I
waited on the sultan, who was dismounted, and sitting under the
shade of the tree, near which he had halted. He was surrounded by
the governors of the different provinces, who were all, with the
exception of the governor of Adamawa, better dressed than himself.
After the midday prayers, all, except the eunuchs, camel drivers,
and such other servants as were of use only to prevent theft, whether
mounted or on foot, marched towards the object of attack; and soon
arrived before the walls of the city. I also accompanied them,
and took up my station close to the Gadado. The march had been the
most disorderly that can be imagined; horse and foot intermingling
in the greatest confusion, all rushing to get forward; sometimes the
followers of one chief tumbling amongst those of another, when swords
were half unsheathed, but all ended in making a face, or putting on a
threatening aspect. We soon arrived before Coonia, the capital of the
rebels of Goobur, which was not above half a mile in diameter, being
nearly circular, and built on the bank of one of the branches of the
river, or lakes, which I have mentioned. Each chief, as he came up,
took his station, which, I suppose, had previously been assigned to
him. The number of fighting men brought before the town could not,
I think, be less than fifty or sixty thousand, horse and foot, of
which the foot amounted to more than nine-tenths. For the depth of
two hundred yards, all round the walls was a dense circle of men and
horses. The horse kept out of bow-shot, while the foot went up as they
felt courage or inclination, and kept up a straggling fire with about
thirty muskets, and the shooting of arrows. In front of the sultan,
the Zegzeg troops had one French fusil: the Kano forces had forty-one
muskets. These fellows, whenever they fired their pieces, ran out of
bow-shot to load; all of them were slaves; not a single Fellata had
a musket. The enemy kept up a sure and slow fight, seldom throwing
away their arrows until they saw an opportunity of letting fly with
effect. Now and then a single horse would gallop up to the ditch,
and brandish his spear, the rider taking care to cover himself with
his large leathern shield, and return as fast as he went, generally
calling out lustily, when he got among his own party, “Shields to
the wall!” “You people of the Gadado, or Atego,” &c., “why
don’t you hasten to the wall?” To which some voices would call
out, “Oh! you have a good large shield to cover you!” The cry
of “Shields to the wall” was constantly heard from the several
chiefs to their troops; but they disregarded the call, and neither
chiefs nor vassals moved from the spot. At length the men in quilted
armour went up “per order.” They certainly cut not a bad figure
at a distance, as their helmets were ornamented with black and white
ostrich feathers, and the sides of the helmets with pieces of tin,
which glittered in the sun, their long quilted cloaks of gaudy
colours reaching over part of the horses’ tails, and hanging over
the flanks. On the neck, even the horse’s armour was notched, or
vandyked, to look like a mane; on his forehead and over his nose was
a brass or tin plate, as also a semicircular piece on each side. The
rider was armed with a large spear; and he had to be assisted to
mount his horse, as his quilted cloak was too heavy; it required
two men to lift him on; and there were six of them belonging to
each governor, and six to the sultan. I at first thought the foot
would take advantage of going under cover of these unwieldy machines;
but no, they went alone, as fast as the poor horses could bear them,
which was but a slow pace. They had one musket in Coonia, and it did
wonderful execution, for it brought down the van of the quilted men,
who fell from his horse like a sack of corn thrown from a horse’s
back at a miller’s door; but both horse and man were brought off
by two or three footmen. He had got two balls through his breast;
one went through his body and both sides of the tobe; the other went
through and lodged in the quilted armour opposite the shoulders.
The cry of “Allahu Akber,” or, “God is great,” was resounded
through the whole army every quarter of an hour at least (this is
the war-cry of the Fellatas); but neither this, nor “Shields to
the wall,” nor “Why don’t the Gadado’s people go up,” had any effect,
except to produce a scuffle among themselves, when the chiefs would
have to ride up and part their followers, who, instead of fighting
against the enemy, were more likely to fight with one another. There
were three Arabs of Ghadamis in the army, armed at all points. Hameda,
the sultan’s merchant, was one. He was mounted on a fine black Tuarick
horse, armed with a spear and shield, an Arab musket, brace of pistols,
blunderbuss, sword and dagger. The other two, Abdelkrim, and Beni Omar,
armed with musket, pistols, sword, and dagger. Abdelkrim was mounted;
Omar on foot, who received a ball from the Coonia musket, which carried
away his cartouche box, with all his ammunition, early in the attack.
The other two, Hameda and Abdelkrim, kept behind the sultan and Gadado
the whole of the action, and always joined lustily in the cry of
“Allahu Akber.” Once Hameda asked me, when I was near him, why I
did not join in the cry: was it not a good place? I told him to hold
his peace for a fool: my God understood English as well as Arabic.
The most useful, and as brave as any one of us, was an old female
slave of the sultan’s, a native of Zamfra, five of whose former
governors she said she had nursed. She was of a dark copper colour. In
dress and countenance very like one of Captain Lyon’s female
Esquimaux. She was mounted on a long-backed bright bay horse, with
a scraggy tail, crop-eared, and the mane as if the rats had eaten
part of it; and he was not in high condition. She rode a-straddle;
had on a conical straw dish-cover for a hat, or to shade her face
from the sun, a short dirty white bedgown, a pair of dirty white
loose and wide trowsers, a pair of Houssa boots, which are wide, and
came up over the knee, fastened with a string round the waist. She
had also a whip and spurs. At her saddle-bow hung about half a
dozen gourds, filled with water, and a brass basin to drink out of;
and with this she supplied the wounded and the thirsty. I certainly
was much obliged to her, for she twice gave me a basin of water. The
heat and dust made thirst almost intolerable. Numbers went into the
shade as they got tired, and also to drink at the river. When it drew
near sunset the sultan dismounted, and his shield was held over him
for a shade. In this way we continued until sunset, when the sultan
mounted. We left the walls of Coonia for the camp. Upon the whole,
it was as poor a fight as can possibly be imagined; and, though the
doctrine of predestination is professed by Mahomedans, in no one
instance have I seen them act as men believing such a doctrine. The
feudal forces are most contemptible; ever more ready to fight with
one another than they are with the enemy of their king and country,
and rarely acting in concert. During the night we were cut off from
water by the inhabitants of Coonia, and a cry was raised that they
had come out to attack us, when the whole of the forces of Zamfra,
horse and foot, were tumbling over us in our quarter, pell-mell,
who should get the soonest out of danger. I had not undressed, but
had my horse saddled, and the camels loaded. My servants would have
run too, but I made them stop and load the camels, when I sent them
off with those of the Gadado, which now only remained.
The flags of the Fellatas are white, like the French, and their
staff is a branch of a palm. They are not borne by men of honour,
but by their slaves. The sultan had six borne before him; each of the
governors had two. They also all dress in white tobes and trowsers,
as an emblem of their purity in faith and intentions.
Tuesday, 17th.—Morning clear, with a heavy dew. We were last
night disturbed several times by reports of the enemy’s approach;
and at one time so great was the confusion, that most of the people
and animals of the camp were tumbling over each other, and rushing
together to save what they could by flight. The forces of Zurmie,
who were encamped nearest the town, fled through the general camp,
upsetting every thing in their way. My servants would have followed,
but I declared, if they started without the baggage, I would shoot
them. This threat, and my seizing the rifle to put it in execution,
had the desired effect. I ordered them, however, to load the camels,
after which I allowed them to go off, along with the camels of
the Gadado. They begged hard that I would go with them; but I
remained until the Gadado and the sultan departed; and thus ended
this harmless campaign, for at five in the morning both he and the
Gadado set out, and at seven halted where we had suffered so much
fatigue in getting through the swamps two days before. Here the
south and eastern governors took leave of the sultan, and pursued
the road we had come with them the other day, while I remained with
the Soccatoo party. Our road lay once more along the banks of the
lake. Numerous tracks of elephants, and other wild beasts, were every
where seen. The face of the country, on the higher grounds, was but
thinly wooded, and the trees low and stunted, except in the ruins of
towns, where they usually grow to a large size, and very luxuriant in
foliage. No traces whatever of inhabitants. The sun was excessively
hot; and only for the plentiful supply of water the lake afforded,
we certainly must have died of thirst. At 7 A.M. halted at an old
encampment of the sultan.
I now, for the first time, learnt the cause of our rapid flight,
which was the desertion of the Zurmie forces, and all the foot;
who had started on the first alarm, as they were all aware that
the horse would not wait for them. I passed a number of the foot
who were wounded, a very few of whom had been fortunate enough to
procure bullocks to ride on. The rest were poor slaves, and were
obliged to walk. One poor fellow had been wounded in the night,
attempting to get water, for they had been cut off from the supply
of that necessary article. The night we attacked the town, his face
had been laid open by a sword, and he had received a severe wound in
the arm. His wounds were much swollen, as they were exposed both to
the sun, and the cold of the night; and only tied up with a bandage
or slip from the inner bark of a tree, which did not cover one half,
or a third of the wound.
Wednesday, 18th.—At 2.30 we left our encampment, and, half running,
half walking along the Soccatoo road, which still skirts the banks
of the river or lake, no appearance of inhabitants to be seen,
passed the ruins of three towers; and the traces of elephants and
other wild beasts were numerous: the soil a deep red clay, mixed
and covered with a thin layer of sand. At 2 saw a range of hills
extending from south-west to north-east, not of great elevation;
as we approached them, the lakes and swamps took a direction to
the southward; the soil became clay and gravel, with rocks of clay
iron-stone on the surface. At 5 we got amongst the ravines, and
beds of torrents at the foot of the hills, and turning to a bend
in the hills south, kept winding amongst them, fatigued and tired,
until 10 the next morning, when I halted at one of the Fellata’s
former encampments. I passed many walking on foot, driving their
horses before them, and for several miles before I came to the camp,
the foot, some of whom we had now come up with, were lying along
the road, unable to move further. My camels, which had got amongst
the first, had halted two hours before.
Thursday, 19th.—The road still lay over hills of clay iron-stone,
imbedded in a dark red clay, for about four hours, when we arrived on
their south-west side, where we had to pass about a mile and a half
of low swampy ground, before we came to the Zurmie river, which was
here broad, full, and running with a current of about two miles and
a half an hour to the westward; its depth at the ford about five
feet, its breadth about sixty yards. As usual, there was a great
assemblage of horses, camels, bullocks, and asses, and of course
great confusion, every one striving to drive before the others. I
stripped, and taking the bridle of my horse, plunged in, and drove
him on before me. I got a severe head-ache, as the water was very
cool, and I was warm. I lay down, after I had dressed, under a tree
on the other bank, until the camels had fed a little, when I started
again. The river below forms a chain of lakes and swamps, skirting
the south-west sides of the hills. Our road lay through plantations
of cotton and millet. The sides of the road were crowded by the foot,
with whom we were now come up. They looked miserable in the extreme
from hunger and fatigue: a great many of the horsemen were walking,
driving their poor goaded animals along.
At noon I arrived and halted at Magaria, a straggling town built
among the hills, which was now a second range closing in to the
north. This town is the sansan, or gathering place for their armies,
and is mostly inhabited by the slaves of the great in Soccatoo,
who have all houses here, and their slaves, who are employed in
raising grain, and tending the cattle, mostly reside here, and in
the villages around. The swampy plain, the river, and the lakes,
extend about six miles to the westward, below Magaria; and from its
situation in the gap of the hills must be very unhealthy, from the
north-east winds driving the vapours right through the town, which,
in fact, is situated on the borders of the swamp.
Morning clear. At 7 left Magaria, the Gadado and sultan having sent
to me the evening before, to say, if I wished to go to Soccatoo and
remain there, until they joined me, I might do so; as they intended
to stay for some days in Magaria, to see if the enemy was disposed
to make an attack on them. I availed myself of this permission;
indeed I had met with nothing but losses and difficulties since I
had joined the Fellata army. I therefore set out, and passed over a
fertile country. Every spot capable of cultivation was planted with
millet and dourra, which was in fine condition. In this district,
they had a scarcity last year, and the year before, and many of the
people had perished for want.
After crossing the hills, which were composed of loose pieces of iron
clay-stone, covered with sand, to the depth of a foot, I arrived at
the river which runs close to the foot of the ridge or hill on which
Soccatoo stands. The banks were crowded with people fishing. Their
nets were formed like a bag, having a border of two small wands,
which they held on each hand, to open the bag. The fish they caught
were small white ones, which are usually carried to the market fried
in butter, and sold at two cowries a-piece.
At 3 I entered Soccatoo, and took possession of the same house I
formerly inhabited; the Gadado having sent a messenger before me,
to make every thing ready for my reception, and to provide for all
my wants.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 1: It does not appear that he ever recovered them—hence
the _hiatus_ in the journal.]