KILLING, SKINNING AND STRETCHING.
When "killing time" comes, care should be taken to not frighten the
animals left for breeding purposes more than is absolutely necessary.
All animals that are tame enough should be driven into a separate
enclosure and out of sight of the others before being killed. Perhaps as
good a method of killing as any is to use a good club, striking on the
head just over the eyes or ears.
The above method is not for skunk, as they should be killed without the
enclosure becoming so strongly scented. A pole several feet long with a
strong loop on the end can be slipped over their head and well back on
the neck. The animal can now be lifted clear off the ground and carried
wherever the killing is desired. If the killer does not mind a little
perfume he knocks them on the head, or if a barrel of water is handy
they can be drowned and few scent. The drowning, however, is not
recommended, as it takes the fur hours to dry and is therefore extra
work. Some even claim that the water spoils the luster of the fur to a
certain extent.
Some animals, such as coon and skunk, do not leave their dens during
severe weather, so that it is advisable to begin selecting those that
are to be killed days and even weeks in advance of the time decided
upon. These should be placed in an enclosure or pen by themselves so
that the remaining ones will not be disturbed.
Even those animals that come out to their feed regularly during the cold
days should be handled in a similar manner so as not to disturb those to
be kept.
The animals that are to be kept for breeding purposes need not be fed so
heavily during the winter months or after those that were intended for
market have been killed. Of course in the spring after the females have
young, they must be fed heavily.
Some raisers, as soon as the young are weaned, select those that are to
be killed the coming winter, keeping them separate from the breeding
stock so that they can be fed properly. That is a great saving of food,
as those for market should be fed much more than the breeders at this
season--say during the months of September, October and November.
Much importance should be attached to the skinning and stretching of all
kinds of skins so as to command the highest commercial value. The otter,
foxes, marten, mink, opossum, civet and skunk should be cased, that is,
taken off whole.
Commence with the knife in the center of one hind foot and slit up the
inside of the leg, up to and around the vent and down the other leg in a
like manner. Cut around the vent, taking care not to cut the lumps or
glands in which the musk of certain animals is secreted; then strip the
skin from the bone of the tail with the aid of a split stick gripped
firmly in the hand while the thumb of the other hand presses against the
animal's back just above. Make no other slits in the skin, except in the
case of the skunk or otter, whose tails require to be split, spread, and
tacked on a board.
Turn the skin back over the body, leaving the pelt side out and the fur
side inward, and by cutting a few ligaments, it will peel off very
readily. Care should be taken to cut closely around the nose, ears and
lips, so as not to tear the skin.
The beaver and raccoon should be skinned open; that is, ripped up the
belly from vent to chin after the following manner: Cut across the hind
leg as if to be "cased" and then rip up the belly. The skin can then be
removed by flaying as in skinning a beef.
Many inexperienced trappers stretch coon skins too long and draw out the
head and neck. This can be avoided. Coon can be cased but most dealers
prefer to have them stretched open.
You should have about three sizes of stretching boards for mink and fox.
For mink they should be 4-1/2 inches down to 3 inches and for fox from
6-1/4 inches down to 5 inches wide; in length the fox boards may be 4
feet and the mink boards 3 feet.
The boards should taper slightly down to within 8 inches of the end for
fox, and then rounded up to a round point. The mink boards should be
rounded at 4 or 5 inches from this point. You will vary the shape of the
board in proportion to the width. Stretching boards should not be more
than 3/8 inch thick. Have the boards smooth and even on the edges. Other
stretching boards should be made in proportion to the size and shape of
the animal whose skin is to be stretched.
You should not fail to remove all the fat and flesh from the skin
immediately after the skin is on the board. If a skin is wet when taken
from the animal, it should be drawn lightly on a board until the fur is
quite dry. Then turn the skin flesh side out and stretch.
Do not dry skins at a fire nor in the sun, nor in smoke. It often burns
them, when they will not dress and are of no value. Dry in a
well-covered shed or tent where there is a free circulation of air, and
never use any preparation, such as alum and salt, as it only injures
them for market. Never stretch the noses out long, as some trappers are
inclined to do, but treat them as above described, and they will command
better values. Fur buyers and dealers are inclined to class long nosed
skins as "southern" and pay a small price for them, as southern skins
are so much lighter than those of the north, in fur.
Foxes of the various kinds should be cased and put on boards fur side in
for a few days, or until dry. As the pelt is thin, they soon dry, when
they must be taken off and should be turned fur side out. In shipping,
see that they are not packed against furs flesh side out.
Skunk should be cased fur side in, and stretched on boards for several
days. The white stripe cut out, blackened, etc., reduces the value.
Mink should be cased fur side in and stretched on boards for several
days or until dry.
Muskrat should be stretched fur side in, and a few days on the board
will be sufficient. They are left as taken off, that is, fur side in.
Cut the tails off when skinning--they are worthless.
Opossum are stretched on boards fur side in and are left in that
condition after removing the boards. Cut the tails off when
skinning--they have no value.
Raccoon should be stretched open (ripped up the belly), and nailed on
boards or the inside of a building. Some dealers allow as much for coons
cased, from any section, while others prefer that only Southern coon, if
any, be cased.
Otter are cased and stretched fur side in. The pelt being thick and
heavy, takes several days to dry properly. They are shipped flesh side
out.
Beaver are split but stretched round and should be left in the hoop or
stretcher for several days.