BOX TRAP TRAPPING.
I was born in Central Pennsylvania and spent the greater part of my
early life among the mountains of that part of our country, writes Mr.
A. C. Williams, a well known trapper. From my early boyhood, I had a
decided liking for the wilder class of literature, and took special
interest in tales of hunting and trapping adventures; but at that time,
did not know that there were many who still followed hunting and
trapping for profit. When I did learn of it, I naturally became even
more interested, and tried to find a partner among my boy friends,
intending, if I could find some person to accompany me, to make an
extended hunting and trapping trip into some one of the wilder portions
of the West or North.
Of course I was no more fitted for such a trip than any other country
boy of the same age, and knew nothing of the wilderness; but being a
boy, and having read so many tales of boy hunters traversing the
wilderness as they would their own back yards, I naturally thought that
life in the forests was a very simple thing, and that there was no
reason why I should not go. As I grew older I learned that there was
still some fur to be found in Pennsylvania, and not only that but that
there were parties who made trapping a business, in season.
I was interested, and decided to try my hand on the fur-bearing animals
found near my own home, before going farther, but I had no traps and
knew nothing about the various sizes and grades; as a consequence, I
sought out one of the trappers that I had heard of, and asked his advice
regarding different traps for the various animals. He gave me the
desired information, very willingly, and also remarked that he had been
very successful in trapping mink and other small animals with box-traps.
After he had mentioned it, I remembered that my father had, on one
occasion, caught a mink in a box trap, after it had been paying nightly
visits to our chicken coop for a week or more, killing a hen each night;
but for all of that I did not know that these traps could be used
successfully when trapping for profit. It was not very long after my
conversation with this trapper, that I had an opportunity of examining
one of these wooden traps and studying its construction. I will give
here a description of the trap used in that section:
A plain box, size 10 by 10 by 24 inches, is made of one-inch lumber,
hardwood preferred, and is left open on one end and the top (see A)
another part (B) the cover, is fitted in top and end, and hinged at back
by driving a nail in each side, being careful to get both nails same
distance from the end of board. This cover should work freely, and when
dropped down in place, should fill the opening neatly, leaving no cracks
for the captured animal to gnaw at.
[Illustration: Box Trap for Catching Animals Alive.]
Now nail two strips (CC) on opposite sides of the box and about three
inches from the mouth of the trap. These strips should extend about ten
inches above the top of the box, and should have the tops notched to
hold stick (D). Stick (E) is tied at one end to a nail driven in the end
of cover, and at the other end, is attached the trigger (F). One end of
this trigger fits into a notch cut into the end of the box, and the
other end fits into a similar notch cut in the bait-stick (G). The
bait-stick, as will be noticed in the drawing, is slipped through a hole
in the end of the box, just below the trigger notch, and is kept in
place by means of a nail driven through on the inside of the box. A
small trip board (H), rests under the bait-stick on the inside of the
trap. This trip board doubles the value of the trap, as by its use many
an animal which merely enters the trap to smell at the bait, will be
caught; which would not occur if the board were not used.
To complete the trap, a snap catch (I) is fastened to one side of the
trap in front of upright strip (C) and its purpose is to catch and hold
the cover when the trap is sprung. This snap is made of springy wood,
beveled on the top, and the falling cover presses it outward; but as
soon as the trap is fully closed, it springs back to the original
position holding the cover securely. In making this trap it is
advisable, always, to use old, weather-beaten lumber.
As a result of my investigation, I made a number of these traps and was
successful with them, from the start. In that part of the country there
had been many saw-mills and logging camps, at one time or another and at
such places I could always find old boards from which to construct the
traps. The only tools required being a saw, a hatchet, and a half-inch
auger, I would go to these places during the summer, whenever I had a
day to spare, and make a few traps, hiding them near the places where I
wished to set them.
The trap described above is of the size used for mink, skunk and
opossum, but I made most of mine on a larger scale, and by baiting with
fish, I caught many coons. On one occasion I caught three coons in one
night, with only three traps set, and in another trap, set by the side
of a small stream, in a gap of the mountains, I caught three mink and
two coons in one fall season. At another time I caught a large bob-cat
in such a trap.
As I said before I baited with fish when I could get them; but those
trappers who used them for mink alone, never used bait, but attracted
the mink into the trap by means of mink musk rubbed on the trip board.
I caught quite a lot of skunks in box traps, and it is a nice way to
catch these animals, for the trap may be carried to the nearest water
and the catch drowned by holding the trap beneath the surface. It is
advisable always, to place a weight--a few stones or wet chunks--on the
cover, as this will make it more certain in its action.
These traps are specially suitable for catching animals alive and
uninjured, for breeding purposes, and now, that so many people are
interested in raising fur-bearing animals, there is a ready sale for
live animals, and this matter should be given attention.
[Illustration: Box Trap with Swing Gate.]
I have used another style of box-trap for muskrats, but is not intended
for catching the animals alive, and the muskrats are always drowned. It
is a simple box or square tube of boards, 6 x 6 x 24 or 26 inches, open
at both ends. A wire screen is fastened over one end, and a loosely
hinged gate of pointed wires is hung in the other end. I used for the
gate, pieces of umbrella ribs, cut about eight inches long and the ends
filed sharp. With the wires cut this length the gate will hang at an
angle of forty-five degrees, or more, and will push in easily, allowing
the animal to enter the trap without effort; but once inside, escape is
impossible, as the gate cannot be pushed out, and even if the captured
animal should raise the gate and attempt to creep under it, the pointed
wires will catch in its back and prevent escape.
They are set in the dens, under water, and if the mouth of the den is
too large, the space around the trap should be closed with sods. Set in
this way, it will catch any muskrat that attempts to leave the den, and
I have caught three at one time in such a trap.
While muskrats caught in this way are always drowned, other animals,
such as: mink, skunk and opossum, may be taken alive by setting the trap
in the mouth of the den, blocking up all side openings. The width of the
trap as shown in the cut, is considerably out of proportion, when
compared with its length--it being drawn this way to show more clearly
the working of the swing gate.
A very effective skunk trap may be made from an old barrel. The barrel
is pivoted to a pair of stakes, driven firmly into the ground along a
bank or hillside, where skunks are found, and the bait is fastened on
the bottom of the inside of the barrel. This trap is shown plainly in
the illustration. It will be apparent to all that when the skunk, in
approaching the bait, passes the center, where it is hinged to the
stakes, the barrel tips over, and it will be impossible for the animal
to escape.
Muskrats are sometimes taken with a wire net. To hunt them successfully
in this way, two persons are required. While one holds the net over the
mouth of the den, the other hunter drives the inmates from the burrow by
prodding the ground with a pointed pole. A wire cage with a cover must
be used to carry the captured animals, and each individual must be
shaken into the cage as soon as captured, and the cage closed
immediately to prevent their escape.
[Illustration: Barrel Trap for Catching Animals Alive.]
When box traps are used, no difficulty whatever will be encountered in
transporting the animals, as trap and catch may be carried into the
enclosure before the animal is liberated. Even the skunk may be carried
along in this way without any danger of scenting. The trap should be
handled carefully--not thrown about.
Muskrats may be handled with perfect safety if grasped by the end of the
tail and held at arm's length.
Trappers, as a rule, know just what time of year the young of each
species of animal are born and I would advise, when trapping animals for
breeding purposes, to catch them before this time, or at such a length
of time after the birth of the young, that there will be no danger of
their starving in case they are not captured along with the mother. Even
if the very young animals are taken from the den, there is danger of
them suffering from careless handling, or from not receiving proper
care. It is better to catch the female animals before the young are
born.
* * * * *
Another box trap that is a good one, is described by an Illinois trapper
as follows:
"I here enclose a sketch for making a trap for catching mink which I
have used for years, and think it can't be beat. Make a box 22 inches
long, 5 inches wide, and 6 inches high out of inch lumber; bore a hole
at the back for the string (D) to pass through, which is tied to a bait
at (E) and fastened at the other end to a heavy wire (C), on top of the
box, which holds the sliding door (A), when set. A couple of strips (B)
are nailed on each side to hold the door in place. This is a good trap
for mink that are afraid of steel traps. For bait use a rabbit's head
tied securely to the string, also a few drops of good scent put on the
bait, and set near the mouth of some tiles or wherever mink abound."
[Illustration: Another Box Trap.]
This trap, as well as all the box-traps in this chapter, are recommended
for catching such animals as skunk, coon, mink, and opossum, alive and
uninjured, for stocking "fur-farms."
Muskrat can be caught in these traps by baiting and setting where they
feed, or on runways from one pond to another.
Animals caught in these traps can be carried with safety to both catcher
and animal, to the enclosure, before taking out of the trap.