Draft as explained for Diagram 76, with the following exceptions:
Let the width X E be ⅓ waist.
Draw all the lines from O down. As this skirt is always made from narrow
material it is, therefore, cut through the line.
From E to G add 12 to 18 inches, according to the width of plaiting
desired.
This side gore, marked 5, is drawn with a curve from L to K.
Point L is ⅓ of the whole length from the waist down.
The train effect which we desire to produce requires that point K shall
curve beyond the straight line Y from 12 to 20 inches, according to the
train desired, and in order that it may fall on the floor ½ of the
above, or 6 to 10 inches, is added to the length at K, below the first
circle 6.
This edge must start from Z.
As the length of the line E L K increases, we are obliged to increase
the length of the line of the back breadth, E L Y, to correspond, for
the line E L K sews into the line E L Y.
In laying the lower edges together the sweep from Y to J must follow
that of Z to K.
When point G is established draw a line through it from O to reach J.
The greater the curve from L to K the more the skirt will sweep back,
but more length must be added at K and on the back piece.
[Illustration: DIA. 77]