First draw the line from O to B and C.
We will take for the waist measure 24, for the hip 40, and for the front
length 40 inches.
Measure down from O to B, the waist, 24, and from B to C, the front
length, 40.
Use point O as a pivot and sweep by it from B to H, and pivoting at the
same point, sweep from C to define the bottom.
As the distance O C is longer than any tape measure, stick an awl into
the table at O, tie a string to it long enough to reach to C, and then
cast the sweep.
Place from B to 1 at the dart ¼ of waist, 3 inches. From 1 to 2—width of
dart—is 1 inch. From 2 to 3 is ¼ waist, and from 3 to 0—width of dart—is
1 inch. 0 to 4 is ¼ waist. _This gives 9 inches from B._
From 4 to 5 we place 1¼ inch for the hip dart.
In the middle of each dart fix a point as D, E and F, and through these
points from point O draw straight lines to the bottom.
Curve the darts 4½ inches down, as shown.
At a right angle with the line O F draw a line from F to G and place
from 5 to G, 9 inches, which will be ample to make up the measure of
waist and leave something for plaits.
At a right angle with the line 5 G draw a line down to U—the dotted
line.
This line defines the closest skirt that can be made, but as it only
hangs straight down, more room around the bottom will give it a better
expression. We therefore add from U to K 12 inches and draw the line G
K.
In gathering the size into the waist-band from G to 5, point G will be a
trifle low to reach 5, so we raise the upper line 1 inch above G, and
draw from 5 to this point, which is between G and 6.
This skirt hangs straight down all around except the plaiting formed in
the back by the addition U to K.
To produce a skirt that will be very full, or will require a
considerable amount of plaiting in the back, proceed as follows:
Locate point A in the middle between O and B, and draw a right-angled
line which will reach L.
For this style the upper waist curve from F backward must be on the
curve from 6 to 5.
[Illustration: DIA. 76]
The bottom remains the same as that of the first skirt. This is usually
called the “Bell Skirt.”
To give a skirt an extreme amount of fullness in the back, add from L to
M 10 inches or more, and draw a line from A to M. The upper edge remains
at H, but the lower is made 1½ to 2 inches longer at N, as shown.
The greater or lesser amount of fullness added produces the several
different styles now made, the one just explained being called the
“Umbrella.”
On silks seams will have to be drawn on lines D, E and F, but no seam is
put in from B to C. On woolen goods, where the width will permit, the
first seam is on E line, and there is none at F. The darts must be cut
in on all skirts.
The piece 3 and 4 is cut from cloth opened.
The very fullest may need a seam on the dotted diagonal line back of K.