DIAGRAM 75.—Commence to draft as for a jacket and apply the length,
which goes to the floor and ranges from 52 to 56 inches.
Make the width of the back at the natural waist 2 or 2½ inches, and
extend the back line 1 to 1½ inch over the construction line at D.
When the straight line of the sidebody from 6 through 5 has been drawn,
the skirt-seam can follow it for a full width skirt; but when a close
skirt is preferred, reduce from D to R 2 inches and curve the seam from
the waist down.
Locate the shoulder and armhole to measure; draw in two darts and
separate the sidebodies.
The central lines, E to L and F to M, must reach down to the bottom.
Having figured out the amount of hip room needed, add it between U and
V, and W and X, and run the seams equally on each side from the center
line.
Transfer the two darts into one in the middle to be the size of one
dart; take out 1 inch at side at 1, and reduce a trifle at V to hold a
good curve.
The line from I to K is squared down by the waist line, but for such a
long garment as this we draw another for the front from I to 1 inch
forward of K. Add 2½ to 3 inches beyond the front-center line for a
double-breasted front.
A broad collar like that shown on the collar plate, or a standing one,
may be used.
Add full seams to this garment and ample cuffs to the sleeves, but do
not make the latter quite so full at the top as for a jacket.
An opening may be left in the center of the back from C down.
[Illustration: DIA. 75]