Take a regularly cut sleeve, and on this mark a line through the center,
O A, and also mark the elbow line.
Lay it down on a sheet of paper and mark along it from the elbow down, H
to 10 and G to T, and across from T to 10.
_The upper part is shown by P and S._
From S by H sweep to F.
From P by G sweep to R.
Draw a line straight across the top of sleeve head—each way from A—at
right angles with line O A.
A to C is 2½ inches, and C to D is the same.
Go over from A to N 3 inches, and the same from A to B, and square up
from these points.
Hold the sleeve at H and swing it over at top till point A will rest on
line B 7, and when in this position draw along its edge from F to H and
F to 9.
Shape the top from 9 upward in a nearly straight line to E, and from
thence through 8 to D as represented.
_Points 8 and E are not established, except by the run of this curve,
which must be directed by the eye._
Put the pattern in the first position, and holding it at G move it over
till A rests on line N; then mark the elbow line, R to G.
To obtain the back curve we place the distance from the line at 7 to 8
over from 6 to fix 5, and that of B to E over from N to get 3. Through
these points shape the sleeve head.
This large sleeve is shown by the solid black lines R, D, E and F, H, 10
and R, G and T.
The under sleeve is not changed.
This gives a good, fairly full sleeve; but if one is wanted quite full,
take the one just made, lay it down on paper, and proceed as follows:
Place the under sleeve against the upper at the wrist, T, and closing
about 2 inches below the elbow, as shown on the diagram.
It will overlap a trifle at M, but this is of no consequence. The object
is to keep the elbow width nearly the same and not change the wrist in
size.
In this position we gain all the distance between R and 2, which is the
amount it increases in size.
Now draw along the front-seam F to 10, up from F to D, and from D curve
past 4 to 2 in such a shape that the line will have a curve between 4
and D similar to that between D and 9.
This sleeve has no back-seam, as its outer edge is the one shown on the
diagram Z, 2, D, F, 10 and G.
In sewing it into the armhole it requires a heavy box-plait on the
center of top at Y and a series of side plaits on each side of this
point until it has been reduced to the size of the armhole.
[Illustration: DIA. 47]