DIAGRAM 44.—When the shoulders are drafted narrower than given by the
system proper, it is necessary to add to the sleeve top the amount the
width of the shoulder has been reduced; this amount, which may be ½ to 1
inch, must be added above 2 to 3, and the curve drawn as shown from 1
through 3 to 4.
The under sleeve requires no change.
It is sometimes desirable, when a vent with buttons is required, as on
close wrists for riding jackets or dresses, to reduce the width of top
at wrist 1 inch, with the intention of having the button show more
forward on the hand.
With the view of effecting this, go in from P on the upper sleeve 1 inch
to S, and draw the elbow-seam from 6 to S.
Then draw the under sleeve from 5 at elbow to P, and add a stand for the
buttons.
DIAGRAM 45.—It is often desirable to change the seams in order that they
shall lie more under the arm, or sew into the sidebody instead of the
back.
To accomplish this, draw a line across on the ordinary sleeve, R to X,
and fix a point in the middle Q.
Point A, the dot, is point F on Diagram 41.
Go down from Q to O ¾ or 1 inch, and sweep from O over toward S and Y,
pivoting at A.
Continue the sleeve head curve from R to Y, and from where it crosses
the sweep at Y redraw the back-seam to the elbow near A.
As the width of the upper sleeve has been increased, we take the
distance R Y and reduce the seam from X to S that amount, and from this
point draw the under sleeve to the elbow.
From the front line at 9 fix a point 1 inch on the under sleeve at V.
Now, pivoting at T, sweep from 9 to V U, which makes the length from T
to U the same as from T to V.
Now draw the inside-seams from V to T and U to the same place, U being
also 1 inch from 9. Then curve from P to U.
DIAGRAM 46.—This is made the same as the last one, only there is more
space between 6 and 5.
Establish A, 1½ to 2 inches below F, and make the sweep by O at elbow.
Remodel the sleeve head from E to 5 by extending the curve of the upper
part, and from where it crosses the sweep draw the elbow-seam.
Take off what has been added—E to 5—from the under sleeve—D to 4—and
from 4 draw to 2.
The same amount may be taken off on the inside as on Diagram 45, if so
desired, or it may be left as shown, without any change.
[Illustration: DIA. 44 DIA. 45 DIA. 46]