DIAGRAM 35.—Draw a straight line as O B.
From O down to A is ¼ of the waist, which for a 24 waist is 6 inches.
From O as pivot, sweep a circle from A toward H.
Take the sidebody and lay it with its lower point at A, and so that the
waist line will rest on the line at 4.
In this position the lower edge will not rest on the sweep, but rise
above it at 1.
Now draw along it from A to 1.
Take the next sidebody, close it to 1, and let the forward point rest on
the sweep point 2.
Draw a line at a right angle from O to E, and from D the point on the
circle to E will be 1 inch.
Now from 2 through E draw the curve to F.
From 2 to 3 lay the third sidebody to obtain the width, and then place
the part of the front from K to S from 3, reaching to F.
F to the outside edge, Z, is 1½ inch.
From 2 to Y is the same.
The bottom, B to C, is 2½ inches, and is shaped past X to C like the
diagram.
A side plait is added to A and B of the same width as that on the back.
After all is drawn out, the upper seam of the skirt is the line from A
to 1, 2, 3 and F.
DIAGRAM 36.—The back is regular down to the waist, where it is usually
made very narrow—about 1 inch on line A. The skirt, which is then added
to C, is never more than 8 nor less than 6 inches long from B to C.
NOTE.—The sleeve head for these garments is never so large as for
other jackets, but is held small or with only a small rise to cause a
puff, and the wrist is made small to close with buttons. When a sleeve
is made to close at the wrist, it necessitates buttons, and for the
prevailing style it is necessary to make the upper sleeve narrower at
wrist, so that the buttons shall be on top of the wrist, as shown on
Diagram 44.
[Illustration: DIA. 34 DIA. 35 DIA. 36]