The body is drafted to measure in the regular way.
The back is extended down to the length needed, and the amount for the
side plait and the turn-in added.
To make the skirt we first lay down the sidebody and draw along its
lower edge from G to H, as shown on Diagram 32.
Lay a long rule stick at the top of the sidebody, point D, and touching
the waist line at E, and draw a line along the edge from G to F.
Apply the length of the back skirt from G to obtain point F, and then
draw a short right-angled line at the bottom.
Lay the second sidebody (E) against H. This will reach to J.
_In laying these pieces to get the width, they should be so closely
connected that the spring below the natural waist line will be in the
position as sewn up._
This must be carefully attended to, as it influences the curve of the
seam of the skirt.
Next we place part O of the front from J to K also in a closing
position.
Having marked K, lay the middle piece between the darts to K. This will
go to N, and when the front Q is added will reach to L.
The line now will be G to H, J to K, and K to L. Curve the line of the
skirt from K to M ¾ inch below L.
Now place the forepart in a closing position, L to M, and draw the curve
of the skirt from M through W and X, to the shape most desirable.
[Illustration: DIA. 31 DIA. 32]