DIAGRAM 27.—This pattern is drafted the same as explained for Diagram 7,
8 or 9, with the following exceptions:
Below the waist line add 1 to 1½ inch; form the lower edges of the body,
and draw in the skirt as for a sack jacket, either wide or narrow at
bottom. Establish the length to C and add 1 inch for plait on the side
and the same on the center of back at E and C.
DIAGRAM 28.—A straight line is drawn as A to C, and the forepart is laid
against it, touching at the fullest part of the breast and at the waist
B.
Go upward from B ½ of the waist measure, which gives the black dot.
From the dot, as pivot, sweep from B over, giving the upper seam of the
skirt (Diagram 29) to F.
Mark off the size from B to 1, which is to the first dart. Then place
the piece between the darts, K, against 1, which will reach to 2. Then
the width from O to S is placed from 2, fixing 3. Next, the first
sidebody, M, is laid from 3 and reaches to 4.
Now we take the other sidebody and lay its lower seam from 4 along the
curve, and this will reach to F.
Holding the sidebody in this position, draw a straight line from its
upper point at G through F, which will bring it through and below H.
The next thing is to take the length of the back skirt and place it from
B to C. By the dot at A, as pivot, we sweep the bottom of the skirt from
C back to the line F H.
_This line is not fully extended, on account of lack of width on the
plate._
DIAGRAM 30: THE LAPEL.—Mark along the edge of front of the forepart and
across the bottom, V to W.
Establish the length, V to U, the same as forepart. Make the width at
bottom ½ inch less than from the front edge to the edge of the first
dart.
Make it 3½ inches wide across the breast, and at the top any width
desired.
Lay the lapel in a closing position to B and breast (Diagram 28), and
mark down the front edge of the skirt from D to E.
[Illustration: DIA. 28 DIA. 29 DIA. 30 DIA. 27]