First we draw the line from O to C, and the one at top from O to T at a
right angle with the first line.
From O to 1 is ¾ inch for the top of back.
Apply the waist length from 1 to the waist line at B, 16 inches, and
continue down to the bottom at C, 32 inches, the full length.
Go up from B to fix A, the height under the arm, which is 7½ inches.
Now, from points A, B and C, draw square lines across.
From B to D is ¹⁄₁₂ of breast.
Draw the back-seam from 1 to D.
Make the width of back at waist from D to 6 about 1½ inch for a short
jacket, and a trifle more for a long one.
At a right angle with the waist line draw one down from D, which reaches
the point marked ⅞, and also draw one down from 6, which reaches the
point marked ⅝.
Extend the back line down from D to C, giving it a slight outward curve.
Whatever has been added at the bottom from ⅞ to C must be placed from ⅝
to 10, to give the run of the side-seam from 6 at waist to point 10 at
bottom.
Place from the back-seam, A1, to H, the blade measure, 10 inches, and
draw a line up and down to V and J.
The distance to H being 10 inches, ⅔ is 15, or ½ of 30.
We bear in mind the number 15, and seek on the short arm the fourth of
the same, which is equivalent to 3¾ inches, and place this back from H
to give point F.
From F up to the top line draw a line square with that of the under-arm
line.
Divide the distance between F and the top line, which gives point M, and
also divide the distance of M and the top line, giving K.
In the middle between M and K place L.
Make the width of the top of the back from O to 2, ⅛ of the blade 15,
and connect 2 with L by a straight line.
Go out from O along the top line to locate N, ⅓ of the breast, and draw
a short line down to 4.
Make a mark opposite M at 4, and draw the side-seam of the back to 6.
Go in from 6 to 7 in all cases 1 inch, and nip in the top of the
sidebody at 4 about ⅜ inch; then draw the sidebody from the latter point
with a sharp curve to 7.
Lay a straight edge at 7 and the top of the sidebody, draw a line as
shown by the dotted line on the diagram, which reaches to C, and then
curve the seam over the hip line about ½ inch, as shown.
Curve the armhole from 5 to 4 and to the line under the arm, at point H.
Place from A1 to G ½ of the full breast measure for the front line.
In the middle between G and H at the armhole fix point P, from which a
line is drawn up to the top.
Take the front length and apply it from the dot, which is 1 inch in
front of point J at the waist, upward on the line P U, deducting from it
the width of the top of the back.
This measure locates point U.
From U to point K draw a straight line, and place from U to 3 the width
of the back shoulder, 2 to 5.
The distance between the lines 5 and K is placed from line H to fix line
Oo.
Shape the armhole from 3 to H, touching line Oo.
From U to T place ⅙ of the breast, and from T through G draw the front
line, which will reach to S.
Then curve beyond G ½ inch to Q, and below add ½ over R and straight
down to the bottom, as shown by the solid line.
Go down from T ⅙ breast to 1 and form the neck.
Now we come to the darts.
Take the distance between H and G and divide it into 3 parts, which
gives W and the dot in front of X.
Make a mark 2 inch back of the dot, which will be X.
Next measure the distance between Q and J and divide this into 3 parts,
giving the two stars numbered ¼ and ½.
From X and W draw straight lines through the stars down to the bottom.
To find out what must be taken out in darts, we measure the size of the
pattern from D to 6 and 7 to Q, which in this case gives 17 inches.
Deducting the ½ size of the waist, 13 inches, from 17, leaves 4 inches,
which is the amount for the darts, and as there are two of them, each
will be 2 inches wide.
Place, then, from the star at ¼ to U and V 1 inch, and from the star at
½ to Y and X, also 1 inch, which will make each V 2 inches wide.
A little higher than ½ from the waist line to that under arm locate 3
and Z. Shape the seams of the darts through U, V, X and Y, and continue
the lines down to 12 and 13, where they will be about ½ inch apart.
Where these lines pass the hips, give them a slight curve toward the
center line.
Measure the distance from the dart at Y to 7 and divide into 3 parts,
giving 9 and 8.
From 9 draw a straight line up and down parallel to the line J H.
From 8 a straight line is also drawn up and down.
Curve and take out on line 9 about ½ inch and only a trifle on seam 8.
[Illustration: DIA. 15.]
Now we must add the hip room, and in getting this we first measure the
width of the back on the line E, which is 6 inches below the waist line.
Then measure from the sidebody at T to the front at R, deducting the
size of the darts, which gives 19 inches.
But one-half hip calls for 23 inches, which requires 4 inches to be
added. These 4 inches we place on each side of the black dots on the hip
line, 1 inch each to 15–14 and 23–22, and then draw the seams, curving
from 9 and 8 through these points to the bottom.
The utmost care is to be taken that all lines below the waist shall run
parallel to each other, except those on the back.
We have seen that the back line of the sidebody from 7 to C is regulated
by the line from top to C.
Now the one from 8 to 10 should be equi-distant all the way down, so
that 10 to C will be the same distance as 22 to T, and so all the
others.
It will be noticed that all lines tending backward are parallel with the
first line, 7 to C, and all those forward follow the shape of the line
from Q to S.
Add 1 inch in front of the line 1 Q for lap for a single-breasted front.
As the lines below the waist overlap it is difficult to cut the pieces
out, as all require piecing.
To obviate this, underlay the draft by a sheet of paper, and with a
tracing wheel trace along the line of the sidebody 4, 7 to C and I, 8 to
A3.
This gives you the sidebody next to the back.
It will be of advantage in regulating the length to mark the waist line.
Cut out the sidebody.
Then, having a sheet of paper underneath the other sidebody, we trace it
out along the lines H, 9 to A2, and I, 8 to 10, also tracing the waist
line.
We now have the two sidebodies, and can proceed to cut out the back and
the front. In doing this, we destroy the two sidebodies, but by tracing
them we have them in full size, and thus have also been enabled to get
the back and the front without piecing.