After the right-angled lines O F and O B have been drawn, place from O
to 1 the regular ¾ inch.
From 1 to B is the length of the natural waist.
B up to A the height under the arm.
The other fitting points are all fixed by the measures, as already
explained.
When point X has been established, lay the square against the back line
A1 and D, and move it up or down till its short arm will rest on point
X, and then draw a line to X.
Next place the square on this line and square down from X to 8, giving
thus the best run of the scye line of the back.
This method can be used on all drafts, instead of merely relying on the
eye.
Only one dart is needed and cut in these jackets, and we must therefore
reduce the size one-third at the side under the arm, leaving only
two-thirds for the dart as the amount to be suppressed to the size of
the waist.
In locating the one dart, start it from the center point P and let the
line run parallel with the front edge, which causes the distance Q H to
be equal to that of P to G, and then place what is to be taken out in a
dart on either side of Q to 5 and 6.
Do not curve the lines of the dart below the waist line, but follow the
form shown at S and T. This will cause the jacket to cling close to the
waist, while if spring were added it would be loose on the lower edge
and flare out.
The shape at the bottom is 1 to 1½ inch longer than the natural waist at
back, point 10, and only ½ to ¾ inch over the hips; but toward the front
it points downward, giving the effect desired.
The star below the shoulder point E is 1 inch from the curve of the
neck.
From this point the break line is drawn to where the roll is to turn,
and the turn of the lapel is added beyond this—made wide or slim as
individual taste may desire.
These jackets have a peaked lapel and narrow coat collar. The latter is
usually drafted like the one shown by Diagram 63, but that shown by
Diagram 60 will answer equally as well.
[Illustration: DIA. 9]
[Illustration: DIA. 10]