For this form the measures are:
Length of back, 16–18.
Front length, 18½.
Blade, 10½.
Height under arm, 7½.
Breast, 36.
Waist, 25.
The points are located by these measures as previously explained, with
the following exceptions:
In drawing in the darts, guide lines may be of benefit. These are as
follows:
After the points have been located, draw straight lines from V through 4
and 5, and from W through 6 and 7.
It will be seen that from 4 down to 8 the dart-seam must run nearly
straight down, and that those from 5 to 9 and 6 to 3 follow with the
same shape. The one from 7 to 2, however, must have more spring, or
twice as much from the dotted line as any of the others.
The front length in this case is short because of the stooping figure
and flatness of chest.
Applying the front length, 18½ inches, toward E, it will not reach to
the top line, but falls, instead, 1 inch below it.
When fixed, place over from 12 to F, on a line drawn from 12, the usual
⅙ breast, and from F to N the same.
_Whenever the shoulder point is low the neck must follow._
As stooping forms usually have prominent shoulder-blades, it is
necessary to enlarge slightly the opening between the top of the
sidebody and the back at 8, and take out at waist (16) ¼ to ⅜ inch more
to conform with the curve of the blade, and at the same time to enlarge
the opening at Z a trifle.
It is also an advantage to take a measure from the neck in front, N, to
the natural waist, to determine how long the front should be.
A form like the one just described needs no change in the darts.
[Illustration: DIA. 8]