The measures for this diagram are:
Length of back, 15–19½.
Front length, 20.
Blade, 13.
Height under the arm, 7.
Breast, 46.
Waist, 33.
Obtain all the points by the measures as explained, with the following
exceptions:
Mark a point 1 inch in front of J on the waist line.
Measure up from this point to the line at E, applying the front length
20, less the width of the top of the back. This measure locates point E
somewhat above the top line, in this case 1 inch. It may, however, be
more or less on different forms, as much in fact as 2 inches for very
stout figures.
When point E has been established, draw a line over to F and place ⅙ of
breast to locate F.
Then ⅙ breast is placed below F for the neck or height of gorge.
The neck in front is always regulated by the position of the shoulder
point, and rises or falls with it.
On large forms, such as we are now considering, the distance between the
darts and the back is so great that it is advisable to make three
sidebodies.
Take the distance between the dart point 7 and the point of the sidebody
at 16 and divide this in the middle, which gives B.
Then divide 7 and B, fixing 15, and also B and 16, locating 17.
Draw the first two lines, 14 to 15 and A to B, straight up, and that
from 17 to 12 with the view of gaining a narrow form at top. Draw the
seams by curving slightly, as suggested by the diagram.
The hip room is in this case divided on the three seams, each one being
increased, of course, less than when there are only two used.
Should the form be very fleshy over the stomach, it will be necessary to
add a trifle extra spring to the dart-seams below the waist line, as
shown by 1, 2 and 3.
[Illustration: DIA. 6]