The measures by which this diagram was drafted are as follows:
Waist length, 15–20½.
Front length, 18½.
Blade measure, 10¾.
Height under arm, 7½.
Breast, 40.
Waist, 28.
Hip, 46.
Draw all the lines and establish all the points in the same manner as
already explained, with the following exceptions:
The pattern measures from C to D and 16 to H, 19½ inches, while the
waist is only 14 inches.
Pattern, 19½ inches.
Waist, 14 inches.
——
Difference, 5½ inches.
Taking off ½ inch for the cut under the arm leaves us 5 inches to be
divided and applied to the two darts, or 2½ inches to each.
This is applied equally on each side of the center lines Q and R.
To give the darts a good shape, draw a line in the middle between V and
W and 5 and 6, and make the seams run below 5 and 6 to 2 and 3, with
only a perceptible difference in width at 2 and 3 beyond that at 5 and
6.
From 4 on the waist line the seam is straight to 1, but from 7 to O it
springs out nearly, or quite, to the straight center line of dart.
After the under-arm seams have been established, draw a line across 6
inches below the waist line for the hip.
Draw a line from the top of the sidebody through point 16 at waist, and
curve below 16 somewhat for round of hip, or about ½ inch from E to 9.
Draw a straight guide line from C down at right angles with the waist
line, then extend the back-seam line down from C, so that it will be in
the middle between the two dotted lines and reach to F.
From D draw the line straight down square with the waist line.
Next to establish the spring needed for hip room according to the
measures, we first measure F to E, then 9 to O, then 3 to 2, and then 1
to front line M.
This gives us 19 inches, while ½ of the hip is 23 inches.
Hip, 23 inches.
Pattern, 19 inches.
——
Difference, 4 inches.
[Illustration: DIA. 5]
These 4 inches must be added to make the draft roomy enough to cover the
hips.
The lines under the arms having been drawn as far as necessary, we place
on either side of them to C and D 1 inch, and the same to A and B,
making the allowance at each place 2 inches, or equal to the size we
must have.
Commencing then at 17, draw to C and D, and commencing at 15 draw to A
and B.
The lower edge may be drawn as on this diagram by shortening it over the
hips, or it may remain on the lower straight line.
“_Remember in getting the size of the hips not to include the darts, as
they are established and their amount is to be cut out._”